Thomas Platter's description of Sir Walter Cope's museum and other English collections
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Platter, ThomasThomas Platter's Travels in England 1599: Rendered into English from the German, and with introductory matter, translated and edited by Clare WilliamsLondonJonathan Cape1937
170 Sir Walter Cope's collection In the ale-houses tobacco or a species of wound-wort are also obtainable for one’s money, and the powder is lit in a small pipe, the smoke sucked into the mouth, and the saliva is allowed to run freely, after which a good draught of 129Spanish wine follows. This they regard as a curious medicine for defluctions, and as a pleasure, and the habit is so common with them, that they always carry the instruments on them, and light up on all 171occasions, at the play, in the taverns or elsewhere, drinking as well as smoking together, as we sit over wine, and it makes them riotous and merry, and rather drowsy, just as if they were drunk, though the effect soon passes - and they use it so abundantly because of the pleasure it gives, that their preachers cry out on them for their self-destruction, and I am told the inside of one man’s veins after death was found to be covered in soot just like a chimney. The herb is imported from 463the Indies in great quantities, and some types are much stronger than others, which difference one can immediately taste; they perform queer antics when they take it. And they first learned of this medicine from the Indians, as 1243Mr. Cope a citizen of 52London who has spent much time in 463the Indies, informed me; I visited his collection with 1891Herr LobelusLobelius, a 52London physician, and saw the following objects. This same 1243Mr. Cope inhabits a fine house in the 1642SnecgasUnidentified. Snow or Snor Hill?; he led us into an apartment, stuffed with queer foreign objects in every corner, and amongst other things I saw there, the following seemed of interest. CopePlat000101. An 74African charm made of teeth. CopePlat000202. Many CopePlat00023weapons, CopePlat00025arrows and CopePlat00027other things made of fishbone. CopePlat000303. CopePlat00033Beautiful 463Indian plumes, CopePlat00035ornaments CopePlat00037and clothes from 256China. CopePlat000404. A handsome cap made out of goosefoots from 256China. CopePlat000505. A curious 123Javanese costume. CopePlat000606. A felt cloak from 309Arabia. CopePlat000707. Shoes from many strange lands. CopePlat000808. An 463Indian stone axe, like a thunder-bolt. 172 CopePlat000909. Beautiful coats from 309Arabia. CopePlat0010010. A string instrument with but one string. CopePlat0011011. Another string instrument from 309Arabia. CopePlat0012012. CopePlat00123The horn and CopePlat00125tail of a rhinoceros, is a large animal like an elephant. CopePlat0013013. A fan made out of a single leaf. CopePlat0014014. Curious wooden and stone swords. CopePlat0015015. The twisted horn of a bull seal. CopePlat0016016. A round horn which had grown on an 22English woman’s forehead. CopePlat0017017. An embalmed child (Mumia). CopePlat0018018. Leathern weapons. CopePlat0019019. The bauble and bells of 273Henry VIII’s fool. CopePlat0020020. A unicorn’s tail. CopePlat0021021. Inscribed paper made of bark. CopePlat0022022. 463Indian stone shears. CopePlat0023023. A thunder-bolt dug out of a mast which was hit at sea during a storm; resembles the 867Judas stone. CopePlat0024024. A stone against spleen disorders. CopePlat0025025. Artful little 256Chinese box. CopePlat0026026. Earthen pitchers from 256China. CopePlat0027027. Flying rhinoceros. CopePlat0028028. (Caterpillar) Hairy worm, sidopendra. CopePlat0029029. Flies which glow at night in 271Virginia instead of lights, since there is often no day there for over a month. CopePlat0030030. A small bone implement used in 110India for scratching oneself. CopePlat0031031. The 227Queen of 22England’s seal. CopePlat0032032. 2259Turkish Emperor’s golden seal. CopePlat0033033. Porcelain from 256China. CopePlat0034034. Falcon's head made of fine feathers. CopePlat0035035. Many holy relics from a 129Spanish ship which he helped to capture. 173 CopePlat0036036. A Madonna made of 463Indian feathers. CopePlat0037037. CopePlat00373A 137Turkish pitcher and CopePlat00375dishes. CopePlat0038038. An 110Indian chain made of monkey teeth. CopePlat0039039. A sea-halcyon’s nest, sign of a calm sea. CopePlat0040040. A pelican’s beak, the 236Egyptian bird that kills its young, and afterward tears open its breast and bathes them in its own blood, until they have come to life. CopePlat0041041. A mirror which both reflects and multiplies objects. CopePlat0042042. Crowns made of claws (ungulis). CopePlat0043043. Heathen idols. CopePlat0044044. Saddles from many strange lands; they were placed round the top on stands. CopePlat0045045. Two beautifully dyed 110Indian sheepskins with silken sheen. CopePlat0046046. CopePlat00463Remora. A little fish which holds up or hinders boats from sailing when it touches them, CopePlat00465likewise another species called ‘torpedo’ which petrifies and numbs the crews’ hands if it so much as touches the oars. CopePlat0047047. A sea mouse (mus marinus). CopePlat0048048. Numerous bone instruments. CopePlat0049049. Reed pipes like those played by 2260Pan. CopePlat0050050. CopePlat00503A long narrow 463Indian canoe, CopePlat00505with the oars CopePlat00507and sliding planks, hung from the ceiling of this room. 1243He possessed besides many old CopePlat00510heathen coins, CopePlat00520fine pictures, all kinds of CopePlat00530corals and CopePlat00540sea-plants in abundance. There are also other people in 52London interested in curios, but this gentleman is superior to them all for strange objects, because of the 463Indian voyage he carried out with such zeal. In one house on the 1668Thames bridge I also beheld a large CopePlat00550live camel. 174 This city of 52London is not only brimful of curiosities, but so populous also that one simply cannot walk along the streets for the crowd. 199 1429Hampton Court 1429Hampton Court is the finest and most magnificent royal edifice to be found in 22England, or for that matter in other countries, and comprises without the park (which has a wall round of one and a half miles in length, is full of game and has a lodge in its midst from which the queen can watch the chase) ten different large courts, and the same number of separate royal or princely dwellings, all adjoining one another however. And the entire construction is built of brick. The first large forecourt is covered with lawn. CopePlat00560In the second court is a beautiful clock, cleverly devised from which one can tell the time by the sun, and also observe the movements of the moon. The third court contains a fine large fountain of great height, artistically wrought of white marble, with an excellent water work with which one may easily spray any ladies or others standing round, and wet them well. And since the 227queen recently progressed from 1429Hampton Court to 1599Nonsuch with some three hundred carts of bag and baggage as is her custom, the CopePlat00570tapestries and all the other CopePlat00580ornaments still hung in the apartments, for the latter, as will be noted shortly, contain such elegant CopePlat00590tapestry of good gold, silver and pure silk that the like is nowhere to be found in such quantity in one place. First we were shown through the aforesaid courts into a large and very long gallery hung all round with CopePlat00600old woven tapestries. This led us to the dining or banqueting hall, from where we entered the church or chapel containing a most excellent fine CopePlat00610organ on which I played a while, then we inspected the gallery or loft, from which the 227queen listens to the sermon. 200 There all over the ceiling were painted these three signs: a portcullis just as is stamped on the half-pennies, a lily (fleur de lis), and a rose, always encircled with these two mottoes: Dieu et mon droit, 'God and my right'; and Dominus mihi adiutor: Being, 'The Lord is my help and succour'. On descent and exit from the church the gardener presented himself, and after we had offered a gratuity to our first guide, the gardener conducted us into the royal pleasaunce. By the entrance I noticed numerous patches where square cavities had been scooped, as for paving stones; some of these were filled with red brick-dust, some with white sand, and some with green lawn, very much resembling a chess-board. The hedges and surrounds were of hawthorn, bush firs, ivy, roses, juniper, holly, English or common elm, box and other shrubs, very gay and attractive. There were all manner of shapes, men and women, half men and half horse, sirens, serving-maids with baskets, French lilies and delicate crenellations all round made from the dry twigs bound together and the aforesaid evergreen quick-set shrubs, or entirely of rosemary, all true to the life, and so cleverly and amusingly interwoven, mingled and grown together, trimmed and arranged picture-wise that their equal would be difficult to find. And just as there is a park on the one hand, so opposite this in the middle of the other side there is a maze, similarly decorated with plants and flowering trees, and two marble fountains, so that time shall not drag in such a place; for should one miss one's way, not only are taste, vision and smell delighted, but the gladsome201 birdsongs and plashing fountains please the ear, indeed it is like an earthly paradise. After leaving this extensive and pleasant garden, and presenting our gratuity to the gardener, the governor of the royal palace, one of the nobility, to whom we had previously sent in our letter of introduction, received us, and after he had returned our letter he presented us to his wife and daughters, who were to take us over all the inner royal apartments and cabinets, and show us all the treasures then in the place, and whatever the woman and daughters pointed out was all told us in French by an interpreter who was with us. The first room they showed us into contained the CopePlat00620lively and lifelike portrait of the wild man and woman captured by 1506Martin Frobisher, the 22English captain, on his voyage to the 1667new world, and brought back to 22England alive. The man’s face was much waled, and both looked like savages, wore skins, and the woman carried a child in 115Indian dress in a linen cloth upon her shoulder. Above the woman were the words: "2348Ginoct 2349Nutioc." Then we saw CopePlat00630a picture of love, in the guise of a woman. Across her brow was written: 'Procul et prope', that is 'far and near', and over her heart I read: 'Mors et vita', that is 'Death and life'; by her feet, 'Hyems et aestas', that is 'Winter and Summer', and underneath, 'Veri amoris repraesentatio', that is 'The image of true love'. Close to it they showed us CopePlat00640the whole evangelical scripture, very artfully cut or carved on numerous square plaques of mother of pearl, a very exquisite work, and the plaques are for the most part attached to a large table. 202 We then entered CopePlat00650a room containing many fine royal beds, also CopePlat00660numerous canopies and CopePlat00670royal chairs all very lavish and ornate; and the CopePlat00680walls everywhere were hung with extremely costly tapestries worked in gold, silver and silk, so life-like that one might take the people and plants for real. We soon came to the CopePlat00690273king's quarters and saw the royal bed, of red satin set and embroidered with gold, which he had with him at the siege of 121Boulogne, is likewise very luxurious. In another room we were shown a CopePlat00700bed where the 631queen's brother was born, against her will. And on the wall CopePlat00710tapestries the history of 1704Pompey was embroidered after the life. CopePlat00720Another chamber showed the history of 3142Tobias worked and embossed in gold relief on the tapestry. Thence to the 227queen's quarters, which stood apart, and the floor was strewn with rushes, into a CopePlat00730long gallery (gallerien) very poorly tapestried; there I beheld CopePlat00740a very handsome inlaid table. Likewise CopePlat00750a picture of the burial of 3142Tobias. In the next room CopePlat00760the gold embroidered tapestry on the walls told the history of the murder of 707Julius Caesar, the first emperor. By the door stood CopePlat00770three of the 707emperor's electors (electores) in customary dress painted in life-like fashion. CopePlat00780The history of 375Lot on a golden tapestry was in another room. CopePlat00790As also 2431Abraham's history, both of these thought to be the finest and most artistic in 22England, indeed the representations are immense in size. In another apartment we were shown CopePlat00800a very costly bed203 which the 2432queen's mother and her ladies worked themselves. Thence through another chamber hung with CopePlat00810ancient tapestries, into CopePlat00820a small apartment ornamented with silk hangings worked in Turkish knot, said to be a gift to the queen from the 2433Earl of Leicester (Lest). This room led to the CopePlat00830paradise chamber, where the ceiling is adorned with very beautiful paintings and an CopePlat00840extremely costly canopy or royal throne, from which amongst other precious stones, pearls, large diamonds, rubies, sapphires and the rest shine forth, like the sun amongst the stars. Beneath this the 227queen is accustomed to sit in her magnificence, upon a CopePlat00850very stately chair covered with cushions. CopePlat00860The royal arms are on the wall on CopePlat00870a very fine tapestry with an extremely large square diamond worth many thousands of crowns. CopePlat00880The tapestry covering the table, red and inset with precious stones and pearls, is valued at over 50,000 crowns. Nor do I ever remember seeing larger or finer pearls before. CopePlat00890On this same table there stood a very fine chess-board, with ivory chessmen, very artfully fashioned. CopePlat00910On the table lay also a handsome game of backgammon, in which the CopePlat00920draughtsmen were finely shaped and perfumed and ornamented with crests, CopePlat00930and the dice were of pure silver with other smaller ones inside them. We were next shown CopePlat00940a number of white ivory pipes with which all kinds of animal sounds may be imitated. CopePlat00950On the tapestries around the crested canopy was a garter with the accompanying French motto as above. CopePlat00960In another room I saw the portrait of 237Ferdinand, the Spanish prince at the age of eight. CopePlat00970Again in another204 room a small virginal all made of glass, beautifully perfumed (parfumiert) with the following inscription on the lid in gilt letters: Cantabis moneo quisquis cantare rogans, Vivat in aethernos Elisabetha dies, which is in English 'Whomsoever one bids sing, let him not refuse', and 'May 227Elizabeth live in eternity'. We saw in addition many CopePlat00980more costly virginals, instruments, CopePlat01000positive organs, and CopePlat01010organs of which 227Her Royal Majesty is a great lover and connoisseur. And amongst others we were shown CopePlat01020an instrument or virginal whose strings were of pure gold and silver, and they said the queen often played this very charmingly. In another room we were shown CopePlat01030a large chest full of nothing but costly cushions on which the 227queen sits and reclines. "We then had to show the introdutory introductory letter given us by the 2347Admiral once again, and after they had read it, they led us into the 227queen's library where we were shown many CopePlat01040old foreign books, I remember CopePlat01050an old Latin manuscript Bible in particular, and CopePlat01060numerous other manuscripts. We were also shown many handsome CopePlat01070little striking clocks. CopePlat01080273Henry VIII's hunting-cap, and CopePlat01090his silver gilt posthorn, with CopePlat01100several silk leashes for the hounds. Likewise many more CopePlat01110bugles, CopePlat01120horns and CopePlat01130pipes. One chest contained CopePlat01150a lovely glass salver, CopePlat01160dishes, CopePlat01170plates, CopePlat01180candlesticks and the like. Further they showed us CopePlat01190the circular horn of a unicorn, seven of my spans in length, had been filed down to heal the sick, resembled ivory, although the black veins where it had been turned were still visible. It was hollow inside so that a nerve205 could run through it. Having taken a stand-up morning drink with the aforementioned overseer and made a gift to his ladies, we left 1429Hampton Court and arrived at the village of 333Windsor for lunch, some 6 or 8 English miles from 1429Hampton Court, I believe. 334Windsor Windsor is an English town, not walled however, as is their custom; is called Winsort or (Windesor), is situated on the river Thames, where it turns from meridian to midnight. We lunched there and sent in our letter of introduction to the overseer of the castle, inviting him to partake with us, or if he had already done so as it was now rather late, asking him to remain at home on our behalf, or at least to make arrangements for us to look over the royal castle after our meal, as we had come expressly for that purpose; which he straightway promised us and afterwards fulfilled. So that after lunch my party and I left the village for the royal castle of Windsor, delightfully situated on a small mound or hillock, and built entirely of square stone, eight miles out of London and four hundred and ten paces from the Thames. In the first or outermost court, partly covered with lawn there is a very beautiful mighty church, with a smooth flat leaded roof (like all the churches in this country), which King Edward erected to the Virgin Mary, and King Edward IV magnificently renovated and enlarged in memory of206 St. George of Cappadocia. On either side of this church hung the shields, helms and arms of the knights of the Royal Order, called the garter (de la jarretiere), an order of very high merit in England, which I will now describe. 334Of the Order of the Knights of the Garter. In the year 1350, when King Edward III had reigned for twenty four years in England, and brought peace and order to his royal dominion, he founded the present order, which later achieved such distinction and renown, that powerful sovereigns coveted membership. The knights of this Order are twenty-six in number. When one dies another is elected in his stead. The head or chief is always the king himself. The second is the king's eldest son, called the prince of Wales, if there is one, and after him foreign or native sovereigns, potentates, princes and lords, as at present for example the king of France, the king of Denmark and the duke of Wirtemberg. In the choir of said church I saw, nailed to the stalls on brass plates, the names of all those who had ever been knights, a few of which I noted down, as Henry II, king of France, knighted 1551, June 21st; Charles IX, king of France; 1564; Philip, king of Spain 1560; John, king of Portugal, and Frederick, king of Denmark, 1578; James, king of Scotland, 1535; Maximilian, Roman Emperor, the Emperor Charles, etc. Kaiser Rudolf II, and many more besides, as Elector Palatine Prince Hans Casimir by whose name was written 'Constanter et syncere' and underneath 'Du treshault, trespuissant et tresnoble prince Jean Casimir, conte palatin du Rhein,207 duc de Baviere et chevalier du tresnoble ordre de la Jarretiere 1578', which is in English 'Constant and true. The allhighest, mightiest and noblest prince Hans Casimir, Prince Palatine of the Rhine, Duke of Bavaria, and Knight of the highest order of the Garter, 1578.' Item of Ferdinand the Spanish king's son and others. The Knights of the Garter wear a violet-brown [purple] velvet mantle lined with white satin when they walk in processions or are made Knights, and a curious hat on their heads, all of which were shown, with the garter and the book containing their rules besides. Beneath the left knee they bind a garter worked in gold, with pearls and jewels, whence the Order took its name. The motto embroidered on the garter, in pearls against black velvet, runs 'Honi soit qui mal y pense - Shame to him who thinks ill on it'. And although the origin of this Order is actually not known since English historians make scant reference to it, this is the story current: Once upon a time King Edward III found his consort's, or as others have it, one of his court ladies' garters which she had dropped while dancing, or in some other way; he picked it up, kissed and returned it to her, and when the gentlemen looking on saw this and laughed, he is supposed to have said: 'Good sires, it will shortly come to pass that you will hold this garter in great esteem', and shortly after he founded this Order. Others say it was first founded in honour of St. George as patron of all soldiers and warriors. 208 For which reason these knights annually hold solemn celebration on his day in the church at Windsor, where the arms are displayed, and disport themselves with a magnificent banquet. They have certain laws and rules amongst themselves, above all that they should help and support each other in distress, not desert one another in case of loss of rank or titles, or flee from the battlefield. Some of their numbers are termed heralds, whose chief is called king-at-arms, and they proclaim peace or war or fiefs according to occasion in the king's name, and present the dukes and earls created by the king with their arms and decorations (ornamenta) and also assist at their interments. In the church we were shown the coats and apparel of the above knights. Then we were led into a large room, bare of hangings, where said knights receive the accolade. There is besides another Order of Common Knights in England (equitum auratorum) also dubbed with the sword. In the middle of the choir of the said church, I saw the spot where king Henry VIII has been laid. There is only a rectangular bier on the tomb covered with CopePlat01200a miserable tapestry, as they have no tomb splendid enough to bury him. And in front of the castle we were shown CopePlat01210an immense black stone (Lapidem Lydium) which is intended for Henry VIII's tombstone. In a chapel at the back of the church I saw a very handsome tomb, which twenty two years ago a cardinals had begun to erect in honour of king Henry VIII. 209The pillars made of brass are all very graceful, and eight angels likewise of brass overlaid with gilt. In the centre is a stone of black marble, it is one of the very finest tombs that I have seen; if only it were finished and complete! It is rumoured that the queen may use the said figures for her tomb. I saw also in this church a stately tomb of black and white marble with the following inscription: 'Nobilissimo Domino Edoardo Finio, Lincolniae comiti, Clintoniae et Saiae Baroni, inclyti ordinis periscelidis et summo Angliae admirallo cum post etc. Obiit 16 Januar 1584', which is, 'To the most noble Lord Edward, Earl of Lincoln, Baron of Clinton and Saye, Knight of the Garter, and England's greatest Admiral, when he died January 16th, 1584'. CopePlat01220The organ in the church is very melodious and pleasant, and I played it a little before vespers. Then we heard some glorious music in the church at English vespers, choir with organ, cornet and fife accompaniment, for as stated above, in outward ceremonies they much resemble the papists. In the forecourt mentioned earlier, seventeen or thirteen veteran or poor knights, who have borne themselves with courage in wars and battles on sea or land, have their lodgings, and so receive a living as remuneration (remuneration), and besides their quarters each has annually one hundred crowns or eighteen pounds sterling to spend, which the queen gives them with a suit of clothes. For this, however, they are obliged to attend church twice daily at Windsor like the canons, clad in doublet and210 cloak. The latter are only common golden (aurati) knights. The inner or second court is square, in length and breadth about a bow shot, in the midst of which I saw a tall fountain artistically wrought of lead, some fathoms high, on which were carved griffons powerfully spewing water from their mouths. And yet another fountain is being equipped of white marble, which I am told has already cost some 70 p. sterling and the water is to be conducted through channels for four miles. We then ascended to the royal castle, which in proportion as it is situated higher than other edifices equally excels them in architectural charm. It is 148 paces long and 907 [97?] broad. To the east are delightful houses for the king's nobles, to the south is a fine playing ground where they play ball with racquets (tennis) and otherwise amuse themselves. To the north is the royal palace with excellent apartments, halls, rooms having a special chapel for adornment. Here there is a large hall 78 feet by 30 broad, where the Knights of the Garter banquet annually on St. George's day, and the whole edifice is of square stone (despite the fact that it can only be had in this part of England but very rarely and at211 tremendous cost) from the very foundations to the roof, occupies a large area and is a fair stronghold. Though generally speaking apart from the ports there are no fortified places to be found, for they were all, or in the main, swept away long ago, so that the inhabitants should not rise up against their king, since it is possible in other ways to see that foreign enemies do not enter the country. On first entering the castle we saw a very large kitchen with six great chimneys, CopePlat01230then we came to the council chamber (aulam consilii) which was hung with old tapestry. Thence we entered an CopePlat01240apartment tapestried with the history of the siege and capture of Jerusalem by the Romans. Then by way of the guard room we entered the room where the queen's wardrobe is kept (hardes) thence to the presence chamber where the queen appears in person (presentiert). We then passed through another apartment into a chapel which Elisabeth had built in 1571, the ceiling is painted all over with roses, and there is a place there from which the queen listens to the sermon when she is at Windsor. From there CopePlat01250a long corridor led straight to a round tower hung with fine tapestries. CopePlat01260We then saw the queen's bedchamber with very lovely hangings. CopePlat01270In a corner was a tiny closet containing a rectangular table-top of red coral mingled with watered marble and set in wood. At the four borders of the table were the following four inscriptions: 1. Virtutis laus actio est. 2. Regina rerum sapientia. 3. Omnis sapientia à Deo. 4. Industriae fomes praemium. That is: 1. The praise212 of virtue lies in action. 2. Wisdom is the queen of all things. 3. All wisdom comes from God. 4. Reward is the tinder of industry. We then entered another room also built by queen Elisabeth. The ceiling was very prettily stuccoed and painted with her name and her usual mottoes. Here stood the foot of the aforesaid coral top. We then descended from the castle which (as above mentioned) is situated on a high hill, to the castle grounds, and came to a long terrace (allée) from which we overlooked a good part of the royal parks which are enclosed. And they told us that round about Windsor there were over sixty parks adjoining, full of deer and other game of every species, which is driven from one enclosure to the other, so that if they desire they can have magnificent and royal sport. The water with which the garden is sprayed is conducted through secret channels in the ground to a stream in the garden. On the aforesaid long terrace are two little lodges with stone porches, 1578, Elisabeth Queen, Defender of the Faith, Ann. 42, was chiselled in English on the stone of one, in the other was a seat on which to repose with the following Latin inscription: 1574, Elisabeth Queen Defender of the Faith. The castle has three fine large suites, (appartamenti) one belonging to the members of the aforesaid Order of the Garter, the other built by John, king of France, and the third by David, king of Scotland, when they both lay captive there under king Edward Ill, and the latter also made213 many improvements there. In the middle of the castle is a very high tower with lead roof, on the top of which I wrote my name and could see the city of London very well. CopePlat01280We then came to a large apartment full of royal beds, hung or tapestried with crimson velvet on which were embroidered in gold the garter and its motto. CopePlat01290There I beheld a bed of extraordinarily large proportions, very ornate, sixteen of my spans broad, and fourteen long, said to be King Henry VII's bed, and I never saw a bigger in my life. I likewise saw there King Henry VIII's bed adorned with crimson velvet embroidered with the garter. CopePlat01300There was also a very old and regal mirror in this room. On the CopePlat01310table near the window lay CopePlat01320a great number of very costly tapestries worked in gold, belonging to CopePlat01330a canopy under which the queen generally sits, the backpiece and the top were very richly embroidered. CopePlat01340The castle overseer also showed us in the same room a very magnificent cushion embroidered in silk, gold and silver, which the queen worked herself during her captivity at Woodstock. CopePlat01350Besides the tapestries one is shown a very ancient arras stretched against the wall, worked in silk and gold, which the English took from the French. The story worked on it tells how the three lilies fell from heaven out of an angel's hand into the hut of the hermit of Remigi who was holding a chaplet, and he214 gave them to King Clovis' consort and instructed her in the Christian faith so that she became a Christian, and he advised her to hand the three French lilies to her lord the King and persuade him likewise to become a Christian, so that he should be the first Christian sovereign, and to bear these three lilies as arms, instead of the three toads he had previously borne, as it came to pass, and the French still bear the lilies for their emblem to-day. Beneath the hermit handing over the lilies to the lady, which is very beautifully worked, were some French verses raised up in black silk, which interpreted mean roughly the following: 'For the greater furtherance of the Christian faith, God had the angel throw the lilies into the hermit's hut', and they are on an azure field and signify faith, strength and equity, and herewith he commanded that he should give them to King Clovis' consort when she came to him in his hut, just as it happened, and the King took them gladly, and became a Christian, and was anointed afterwards at Rheims by the hermit of Remigi with the holy oil from the ampulla there, as mentioned above, and installed, just as they still anoint them there to-day. And ever since the French have borne three lilies in place of the three toads which they had formerly upon their shields. And over the writing stood the angel and the king, the angel throwing three lilies down from heaven, and the hermit reverently picking them up - and opposite was the King's consort. Since this arras is so old and beautiful and depicts the French genealogy, France has often attempted to buy it back again for an immense sum of money, but it is not to be purchased from England at any price. CopePlat01360Near the above room215 (1600chambre de la Garde Robe) in a smaller chamber we were shown a chest containing CopePlat01370numerous very richly fashioned, worked and embroidered royal cushions, and in a lower drawer of the same chest was CopePlat01380a longish case and in it CopePlat01390a whole bird of paradise, which they took out for us; its back was pale yellow, and both sides were chestnut brown, all round the beak however, which was very hooked, was green. The whole bird with its tail feathers measured three of my spans in length, had very fine feathers soft as silk, and two little black thongs four spans long, which it uses like claws to hook itself to trees. In a lower drawer of said chest lay also CopePlat01400a natural unicorn's horn weighing twenty pounds, and one span taller than I. I could almost compass its circumference with one thumb and forefinger. In the region which seems to have been embedded two spans into the head, it was hollow and contained a nerve. The exterior was very straight and pointed and wonderfully turned. They told us that 273Henry VIII had received this unicorn from 309Arabia and had valued it highly. We then saw over the dwellings of the nobility and the royal retinue, in the court where stands the fountain. Having thoroughly inspected the above castle and given gratuities to the overseer's staff, we went down the hill to the university called 1703Eton College, or Aetona, founded by 270King Henry VI. We did not see anything particular in this college except a number of clumsy scholars in long black gowns whose maintenance is amply provided by the queen. And we were told that many of the nobility dwelt in this college. I could not discover a single student able to talk to me in Latin, they all pointed to their mouths with their fingers and shook their heads. So that we did216 not linger there for long, but merely looked over some class-rooms (classes) and a splendid church nearby. Then we returned to our lodging in Windsor where we spent that night.