<P>LETTERS

Write to a Friend, By the Learned

and Judicious Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour,</EM> M. D

CONTAINING

Excellent Directions

and Advices

For Travelling

thro' FRANCE <EM>and</EM> ITALY With many Curious and Judicious

Remarks

and Observations

made

by Himself, in His

Voyages

thro' these Countreys.</P>

<P>Published

from the Author's Original M. S.</P>

<P><EM>EDINBURGH,</EM> Printed

in the Year, M.DCC.</P>

<BR><BR>

<BR><H4>To the Most Illustrious, Most Potent, and Noble

EARLE,

ALEXANDER Earle

of Murray, Lord Doun

and Abernethy, &amp;c.</H4>

<BR><H4>Sometime Lord High COMMISSIONER, And Principal

SECRETARY of State For the Kingdom of Scotland.</H4>

<BR>

My Noble Lord!

<P>

IN all Ages,

discerning

and serious Men,

who knew

best to allow and distinguish things

and Persons,

have made

it their great Complaint, That the

present Generation

did

degenerat

from the former; And that the Generality of

Men

were

too apt and ready to pursue bad

Courses:

And some thinking

Persons

now, are easily

induced

to believe, that, the Days

we live in, the World is

not much mended.

This notwithstanding,

no Time hath

been

known

(how dissolut

soever) wherein some worthy &amp;

vertuous

Men

have not appeared,

who have studied

to improve Natural and Moral

Enduements,

and to pursue Vertue,

preferring

that way to base

Interest, and selfish Ends.

And it is

well known,

that even at this Time, when many &amp; great

Duties

are easily

superceded,

there are here and there some Persons

who worthily

act upon the

Principles

of Honour, Conscience, and Vertue,

maugre all

Discouragements.

Among

whom

Your Lordship (even in your Solitude)

moves

and acts

in a very high and conspicuous Sphere, to that Measure of

lovely Vertue

and Splendor, that Your Friends

and Wellwishers

admire, and

your Enemies

(if You have any) can find no matter of Censure. If there

were

many such in the Nation, it would be no hard mater to retrieve

&amp; bring in Vogue again, these

adequat

Qualities

and Vertues,

which often have rendered

many of our

Countrymen

(endued

therewith) famous and illustrious both at Home and Abroad. In

the mean Time it is

to be wish'd that each man would labour to reform Himself and

his own Ways,

conforming

them

to these excellent

Rules.

And that certainly

at length would make and advance a laudable

Reformation indeed. But it

is

to be feared,

that this would rather prove an

abortive Wish, than that it shall have

its

wisht

for Effect: albeit (to have it so with the World) it should be

a part of our dayly

Prayers,

and come in continually

to Our <EM>Letany.</EM>

</P>

<P>My Lord!</P>

<P>

Whilst You are Enjoying

Your self, and are solaced

with the Comfort of a good

Conscience, in Your Retirement,

making

your self an

Example of

Vertue,

and a Patern

of Honour and Goodness to those who observe you and your

Actions.

I humbly

address <EM>Your

Lordship,</EM> not desiring

to interrupt Your Repose, but

to afford You a litle

divertisement for some of your vacant and

Recreating

Minuts:

By Offering

to <EM>Your Lordships</EM>

Perusal these following

<EM>Sheets,</EM>

and Begging

<EM>Your Patronage</EM> thereto: And I judge I have little

Reason to despair of your

Favour and Acceptance, since <EM>Your Lordship</EM>

was

Pleased

to shew

a more than Ordinary Affection and Kindness to the Author my

Father. And therefore I hope

this little Tract wil

give <EM>Your Lordship</EM> some

Content; and for others I

am

bold to say, I hope well: for many

Persons

of great <EM>Honour</EM> and <EM>Judgement,</EM> have (since

my Father the <EM>Authour</EM>'s

Death) been

sollicitous

to get written

<EM>Copies</EM>

from the <EM>Original,</EM> which

was

indeed perfected

by My <EM>Father</EM> in his Own Time,

without any Design to make it publick.

But my <EM>Father</EM>'s M. S. with all his

<EM>Books</EM>

being

committed

to a certain Person he, without my Privity,

gave

out <EM>Copies</EM>

to <EM>Knowing</EM>

&amp; <EM>Inquisitive Persons,</EM>

as of late I came

to understand, and now these <EM>Copies</EM>

abounding

abroad, and most (if not all) being

defective or incorrect, (to Prevent my <EM>Father</EM>'s

being

abused)

I now send a True <EM>Copy</EM> abroad unto the

<EM>World,</EM> and let it See the Light: And go it must under

<EM>your Lordships

Patronage,</EM> for I am

confident the Design will

succeed the better, and the <EM>Book</EM> will be the more

acceptable to these who Love and Desire the <EM>Knowledge</EM>

of such <EM>curious Maters:</EM>

Nor shal

I diffide its

<EM>Fate,</EM> being

first wellcome

to Your Lordship, to whom

I hereby address the same, most

humbly

and heartily,

and not in course, ingyring upon a Patron, as the custom

sometimes

is.

</P>

<P>

Thus, begging

Your Lordships

Pardon for my Presumption,

I do intreat from your Lordship the Honour to be

accounted,

</P>

<BR>

My Noble LORD,

Your <EM>Lordships</EM>

most humble, Most Faithfull,

most Devoted,

And Obedient Servant, M. BALFOVRE.

<BR>

<BR><BR>

i

<BR><H4>TO THE READER</H4>

<P>IT is

needless to show the many advantages

may be had

from Travelling,

since all are convinced

of it; and the VVisest

of Men

in all <EM>Ages</EM>

have thought this the best way to improve themselves: thus, as

<EM>Homer,</EM> the <EM>Greek</EM> Master,

showes

us, <EM>Vlysses</EM>

followed

this Method.</P>

<BR>

<BR>Qui Domitor <EM>Trojae</EM> multorum providus

Vrbes,

<BR>Et Mores hominum inspexit; latumque per aeqour

<BR>Dum sibi dumsocijs reditum parat, aspera multa

<BR>Pertulit.

<BR>

<P>

And such a one <EM>Homer</EM> drew

his Son <EM>Telemachus,</EM> whose

adventures

have of late been

Painted

by an

excellent Pen, with all the advantages,

requisit

for the education of a good

Man and Excellent Prince.

ii

Indeed, the World is

a Theater, in which we may see not only the different

productions

of Nature, but also all the Arts

&amp; Mysteries

of Government; and all the wayes

of improving

Nature by Art; and every Climate

affords

new <EM>Scenes</EM>

for improving

<EM>Geography, Natural</EM>

and <EM>Civil Historie,

Medicine, Commerce,</EM> and all the

<EM>Mechanick</EM>

Arts.

</P>

<P><EM>Medicine</EM> certainly

is

much improved

this way, for thus <EM>Galen</EM> writes, he

sailed

to <EM>Lemnos, Cyprus</EM> and <EM>Palestina</EM> of

<EM>Syria,</EM> on purpose to see foreign

<EM>Plants,</EM>

and rare Ores

and Mineralls.</P>

<P>

The following

Letters

give you some account, to

this purpose, of these Countries

in <EM>Europe</EM> viz. <EM>England, France</EM> and

<EM>Italy,</EM> which for, Politeness &amp; Civility, for

<EM>Grandeur</EM> and

Magnificence, &amp; for Arts

and Inventions,

and the Publick

incouragements

of them,

farr

excelleth

all the rest. The Author of them,

Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour,</EM> Doctor

of <EM>Medicine,</EM> spent

some fifteen Years

in his Travels,

&amp; Residence in these Countries;

He was

a Man of an

Excellent VVit,

and of a Ripe Judgement, and of a most

taking

behaviour; He had

improven

himself

iii

to the best advantage, with all the

learning

taught

in the most famous <EM>Vniversities</EM>

of these Countries,

had

acquired

their Languages,

and Conversed

with the most famous Man then alive. The

particular Curiosity He

had

to learn every thing that might enrich his mind with

knowledge, was

in his youngest

Years

favoured

with the Example and Instruction of his

eldest

Brother, 30 Years

elder than himself, the Famous Sir <EM>James Balfour,

Lyon

King at Arms,</EM>

who had

a Curious <EM>Bibliotheck,</EM>

had

Collected

in his Cabinet many Curious

Products

of Nature and pieces

of Art, and took

delight to cherish this early

Curiositie

of his youngest

Brother: With this Disposition &amp;

proficiencie

in the Learning

then taught

in his Native Country, He begun

his Travels,

which, in so long a Tract of time he

employed

that way, came

to Qualify him

exceedingly

for performing

all that is

recorded

of him.

[<B>Note:</B>

In the Memoria <EM>BALFOUR<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>A<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>A.</EM>

]

</P>

<P>

When He wrot

these Letters

He had

setled

his abode at <EM>Edinburgh,</EM>

where He Practised

<EM>Physick</EM>

with great Success, &amp;

iv

deservedly

gained

the Reputation of the best Qualified

<EM>Physitian</EM>

in the place, and accordingly

was

employed

by these of the best Rank. About a Year or two after his

settlement here He took

the Resolution of erecting

a publick

Garden for <EM>Plants,</EM>

and a Cabinet of Curiosities:

He had

begun

the last in his own Lodging&#0183;

and was

projecting

how He might establish the other, when He

became

acquainted

with that worthie

Gentleman <EM>Patrick Murray,</EM> Baron of

<EM>Livingstone,</EM> to whom

these Letters

(now publish'd) were

addressed.

This Gentleman designed

so much for the good &amp; Honour of his Country, that I

cannot but in this place do that Justice to his

Memorie

to give the World some Character of

him,

having

been

well acquainted

with him,

&amp; having

had

the happiness to make the Acquaintance, &amp;

beginn

the Friendship contracted

betwixt him,

and Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour,</EM> which

produced

these Letters.

</P>

<P>

This Gentleman had

a particular <EM>Genie</EM> inclining

him

to studie

Natural History, and all the wayes

and means,

how to improve the Arts,

most usefull

to his Countrie;

He

v

had

studied

the <EM>Mathemathicks,</EM> &amp;

delighted

much in the practical part of them,

&amp; employed

much of the Revenue of that plentifull

Estate He had

from his Ancestors,

in purchasing

Instruments,

&amp; Curious Books,

which treated

on these Subjects,

He having

Travelled

over a great part of this Country,

in searching

after the Plants

that grew

wild up and down in it, &amp; withall

having

read severall

writers

on the Plants,

he every Year sent

for new Seeds

of foreign Plants:

He inclosed

a considerable Parcel of Ground, in which He

trained

them

up with great Skill; and before He

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> to his

Travells,

He had

of domestick

and foreign

Plants,

growing

in his Garden at <EM>Livingstone,</EM> above a Thousand: He

was

above thirty six

Years

of Age before He began

his Travells,

and had

fitted

himself by

reading

of <EM>Voyages,</EM>

and such Books

as might best inform him

of what He was

to inquire for, in foreign Countries,

ye<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> He

was

so sensible of the great Advanta<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> that

Learning

Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour</EM> <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ster of,

that He not only inform<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>d

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

him

of the best Books,

fitted

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

vi

and the designe

He had

to Learne

all that might be for the improving

of knowledge, &amp; of the

Arts

usefull

to this Country, but likewise

He obtained

his promise to intertain

a Correspondence with him

whilst He was

in foreign Countries,

by Letters,

upon all Occasions.

These three make a Part of what Sir <EM>Andrew</EM>

wrote.

He had

whilst He was

abroad, bought

up most of the writers

extant upon Plants

and other parts

of naturall

History, and many relating

to the culture of Plants;

He had

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>exactly

learned

all the Plants

then keept

in the Kings

Garden at <EM>Paris</EM> (the most

compleat

that is

in the World, either for the

number or the Quality of the Plants)

or in privat

Gardens

there; and had

travelled

thorough a great part of <EM>France,</EM> when He

was

surprized

with a Feaver,

that he contracted

at <EM>Avignion,</EM>

of which he dyed.

</P>

<P>

He begun

his <EM>Voyage</EM> the <EM>2d.</EM> of

<EM>September</EM> 1668, and

dyed

in <EM>August</EM> or <EM>September</EM> 1671. In these

places

of <EM>England</EM> and <EM>France</EM> He

Travelled

thorough, He gives

a very particular Account, even of the

Dimension

vii

of the Publick

Buildings,

the Remarks,

the distances

of the places;

He gives

an

Account of the Government of <EM>France,</EM> of the

<EM>Peers</EM>

there, &amp; the <EM>Orders</EM>

of <EM>Knighthood;</EM> He

gives

an

account of the Remarkable Manufactories

in <EM>France,</EM> &amp; particularizes

some of the Mines

and Quarries

of <EM>Marble,</EM> and has

an

Account of the <EM>Canale</EM>

for the Communication betwixt the

<EM>Mediterranean</EM>

and the <EM>Ocean;</EM> He shows

the Quality of the Weather,

the Habits

of the People in the

Souths

parts

of <EM>France;</EM> He des<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ibes

the Monuments

of Eminent Men,

&amp; <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> some

of their Sepulchral inscriptions,

and takes

notice of the best Gardens

and of the C<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>iners

of the Curious where He Travelled&#0183;

describing

many particulars

not to be <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>et

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ith in the

printed

Voyages,

and upon this Account his Voyage

deserves

very well to be made

Publick.

</P>

<P>

<EM>As to these Letters

of Sir</EM> Andrew Balfour <EM>now

published,

I shall leave the Judgement

of them

to the Learned,

who may peruse them;

yet this I must say,</EM> There are many

particularities

in them

relating

to Natural History, and the

way of Safe and connient

viii

Travelling,

not to be met

with in the printed

Accounts

of these Countries,

and I am

perswaded

they are of Excelleut use for these who study Natural History,

and Physick,

where they may be informed

where Plants,

&amp; other Subjects

of them,

are to be found in their Native

Places,

and where they may see the <EM>Cabinets</EM>

of the Curious.

</P>

<P>Others will be hereby instructed

in the <EM>Manners,

Orders,</EM>

and <EM>Customes,</EM>

of these People; They will find

likeways

many Curious

Reflections,

which are Pleasant to read, and may give rise to

higher

Considerations.

They will see what Varieties

foreign

Countries

of a different Soil &amp; Temperature

of Air, do afford; severall

of which may be brought

here, and may be made

usefull

to this Country.</P>

<P>

What Sir <EM>Andrew</EM> delivereth

here, is

what he observed,

experienced,

and handled

himself, and none need question the

Relations

in any Circumstance; He was

known

to be a most candid and Ingenious Gentleman, He

gives

his apprehension and Judgment

of the Reasons

&amp; causes:

which was

allways

much valued

by all which

ix

kneDw him;

being

a Gentleman of Excellent

VVit,

and Judgment:

He did

not expect that they should be

printed,

and in his lifetime he would never hear of it; and such

was

his Modesty, he never shewed

them

to any but his most intimate Friends,

and could not be perswaded

to give a Copie

of them,

but since his Death copies

of them

have past from hand to hand, and all who have

seen

them

are very well pleased;

whereupon at the

earnest

intreaty of his Friends,

his Son hath

published

them

in the Stile he found them

writen;

his design was

to render all easie

&amp; intelligible to his Friend he

wrote

them

to; if the <EM>Phrase</EM> &amp;

Language seem in some

places

less ornate, &amp; not so congruous as may be

expected

now, it is

to be remembred,

they were

writen

thirty Years

ago, when he had

been

Fifteen Years

absent from his own Country, &amp;

had

accustomed

himself to speak foreign more Language, than to

Studie

the Elegancie

of his own Native Tongue; &amp; this I think should excuse

him

at the hands

of the <EM>Criticks,</EM>

He Studied

more things

than words,

x

&amp; yet, as all know, He expressed

himself most handsomely

upon all Occasions.

</P>

<P>It was

fitt

this should be Represented:

The rest is

left to the impartiall

Reader, who will meet with so many Remarkable &amp;

usefull

things

in the Letters,

that there is

no doubt of his kind Acceptance of

them.

If these meet with the encouragement

hoped

for, 'tis like, the <EM>Baron</EM> of <EM>Lovingstone</EM> his

observations

in his Travels,

in our Language too, and a

Voyage of another Countryman

of ours,

through <EM>France</EM> and <EM>Italy,</EM>

writen

in a pure Stile of Latine,

may be published

for the satisfaction of such as are Curious of

Travells,</P>

<BLOCKQUOTE>Farewell.</BLOCKQUOTE>

<BR><BR>

1

<BR><H4>LETTER I.</H4>

<BR><H4>CONTAINING

An

Account of what is

remarkable in and about London, &amp;c. And in and about Paris,

&amp;c.</H4>

<BR>

Sir,

<P>

I Cannot inform You of any thing considerable on this side

<EM>London,</EM> except it please you, when you are

got

the le<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>gth

of <EM>Huntington,</EM> to turn six or seven

miles

out of the road to see <EM>Cambridge;</EM>

which I doe truly

think worth the while, in regard it

is

one of the two famous Universities

of <EM>England,</EM> where if it please you, You may take

Notice of the number, structure, and order of the

Colledges,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> but particularly

of the Libraries

and Gardens;

as also of the Book-sellers

Shops

in the town-where possibly

you may meet with something

2

that you shal

not meet with any where els

in order to this it would be convenient to have some letter of

recomendation

or adress

to some member of the University

whom

you might be sure (upon this account) to find very ready to

serve you; I am

sorry that I cannot help you in this particular,

having

never been

in this place my self; But I think if you address your self to

Mr. <EM>Ray</EM> (who wrote

and published

the Catalogue of plants

growing

about <EM>Cambridge</EM>) upon the score of

seeing

that place, and himself as a Person so

deserving

especially

in the knowledge of plants,

of which you are also a verie

great lover; I make no doubt you shall find

him

as ready to oblidge

you there, as you use to be to any

<EM>Virtuoso</EM> here.

</P>

<P>

At <EM>London</EM> I shall advise you to

lodg

in or about <EM>Convent</EM>-garden, as a place most

commodious for your business. I thought it

necessar

to accompany you only with two leters

of recommendation, the one to Dr. <EM>Morisone,</EM>

whom

I think the best <EM>Botanist</EM> in the world, and a most

honest

3

and obliging

friend; By his means

you will easily

see all that is

considerable of Plants

about <EM>London,</EM> and purchase what

seeds

that place affoords.

The other is

to Mr. <EM>Scott</EM> a Book-seller,

dwelling

in <EM>Little-Britain</EM> by whose

means

you may be furnished

with any Book that may be be had

in <EM>London;</EM> and I think as

reasonably

as else-where: notwithstanding you will 'doe well to see other

shops,

as particularly

Mr. <EM>Bees</EM>

and Mr. <EM>Pulleyns,</EM> both of

them

in <EM>Little-Britain.</EM>

</P>

<P>As for the other beauties

of the Court and City I need not say much,

being

you will easily

be informed

of them

upon the place: I shall only hint

at some of the most considerable,</P>

<P>

And first, at <EM>Whythall</EM> be

pleased

to take Notice of the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>anquetting-house;

you will find it of a stately fabrick,

such as the late King designed

to have all the Palace of; it was

built

by King <EM>James,</EM> the historie

of whose diefication you wil

find Painted

on the roofe

within, by the noble artist <EM>Rubens,</EM> only you will

find the Figures

too big, occasioned

by the

4

Painters

misinformation concerning

the Hight of the Room, which he

was

made

beleeve

to be greater.

The King's privy Rooms

are worth the seeing,

because of their excellent Ornaments

of Hangings

and Pictures.

</P>

<P>2 The Palace of <EM>Westminster,</EM> in which I find the

great Hall only considerable for

its

great breadth and artificiall

roof.</P>

<P>3. <EM>Henry</EM> VII. Chappel

and the tombs

in and near it.</P>

<P>4. You will do well upon some

Holyday

(if any happen during your abode there) to see the King at

Divine service, in regard of the extraordinary state

used

on such dayes,

as also of the excellent Musick;

I would advise you likwise

to see the King dine on some such day.</P>

<P>5. The Tower, in which be curious to see the Mint Crown,

Scepter, &amp; Treasury, the Magazine of ancient

arms

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> and the new Arsenall

built

and furnished

by the present King, The wild Beasts.</P>

<P>

6. <EM>Gresham</EM>-Colledge, where the

Exchange

is

now kept;

inquire there for Dr. <EM>Pope</EM> that by his

means

you may see

5

a verie

fine collection of naturall

rarities

kept

in that Colledge.

He will likewise carry you to see the

Royall

society, if you so desire.

</P>

<P>7. The King and Dukes

play-houses.</P>

<P>8. The Innes

of Court, especially

the <EM>Temple, Lincolns</EM> Inn, and <EM>Gray</EM>'s Inn.</P>

<P>9. The New Exchange, and not

farr

from it, <EM>Sommerset</EM>-House.</P>

<P>10. St. <EM>James</EM>'s-House and Park.</P>

<P>11. If yow

please to take a pair of Oares

the length of <EM>Greenwich,</EM> you will see the

Kings

new House that is

a building there, and if you please to walk up to the Hill above

it, You will have a prospect up and down the river, which the

multitude of goodly

ships,

the pleasantness of of the Countrey

about, and our Countreyman

<EM>John Barcly</EM>'s curious Description

and Commendation of it, render most famous.</P>

<P>

12. For the rest, I shall only put you in mind, that about

<EM>London</EM> there are such places,

as <EM>Wimbletone</EM> belonging

now to the Earle

of <EM>Bri<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

but lately

to the Queen-Mother and in the time of the

6

Rebellion possest

by <EM>Lambert;</EM> who imbellished

the Garden thereof with great variety of

plants.

<EM>Hampton</EM>-Court and Park

belonging

to the Kings

Majesty. I shall likewise put You in mind that

<EM>Oxfoord</EM> is

but fifty miles

from <EM>London,</EM> and that it

is

one of the most famous Universities

in the world, both for the number and structure of the

Colledges

and Halls,

and for the multitude of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>udents,

and competency of their provision.

The chief Colledges

are <EM>Christs Church, Magdalens,

All-Souls,</EM>

St. <EM>John</EM>'s, <EM>&amp;c.

Baliol</EM>

Colledg

was

founded

by a <EM>Scots</EM>

King's father of that name, The

Schools

is

a stately Fabrick

where there is

kept

a most magnificent

Librarie

for Number of Books

beyond any that ever I saw:

there is

besides

near <EM>Magdalen</EM>-Colledge a

<EM>Physicall</EM>

Garden; when You resolve to

goe

thither Dr. <EM>Moreson</EM> wil

recommend You to such persons

as will be carefull

to shew

you every thing.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>London</EM> to <EM>Paris</EM> the best way

is

to goe

by <EM>Dover</EM> and <EM>Calais,</EM> that you may

returne

by <EM>Die<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

and <EM>Rye,</EM> except

7

you make account to returne

by <EM>Flanders</EM> in which case I advise you rather to

goe

by <EM>Rye</EM> and <EM>Deip,</EM> because

<EM>Rouen</EM>

(which otherwise will not fall to be in your way)

is

a more considerable place and better worth the

seeing,

than any thing upon the way of <EM>Calais.</EM>

</P>

<P>For your accommodation from <EM>London</EM> to <EM>Rye,</EM>

you may either take post, or enquire

for the <EM>Rye</EM> Carrier at the

Kings

Head in <EM>Southwark,</EM> he will furnish You

sadle

Horses

for 12. <EM>sh.</EM> a man, and if You have

anie

baggage he will carrie

it at an

easie

rate; by this way You will arrive at <EM>Rye</EM> in two

dayes,

where You may lodge at the <EM>Marmaid</EM>

untill

You find an

Oportunitie

of passage, for which if there be

Passingers

enough You must pay 10. <EM>sh.</EM> but if there be few

passingers

You will be obliged

to pay more.</P>

<P>

At <EM>Deip</EM> be pleased

to lodge <EM>A la Bastile,</EM>

the master of the House hath

a Son that speaks

<EM>English,</EM> and they are all

verie

civil people. You may see in the

shops

verie

manie

curiosities

in that place, and particularlie,

<EM>Au Roy de la Chine;</EM> The

8

Town is

famous for working

in <EM>Ivory, Horn,</EM> and <EM>Tortois-shell,</EM> for

<EM>Combs,

Boxes,

Dialls,</EM>

and a Thousand other conceats.

</P>

<P>From thence you must Hire Horse to

<EM>Rouen,</EM>

the ordinarie

price is

a Crown, if you have no companie

you will do well to take a guide by the

Land-Lords

Direction; you dine at a

place called

<EM>Tostes,</EM> the first House of the village which you come

at is

the best.</P>

<P><EM>At Rouen</EM>

lodge <EM>Au Bon Pasteur,</EM> the master

is

a Protestant, and speaks

<EM>English&#0183;</EM> be pleased

to take Notice in the Town, of</P>

<P>1. The Bridge on the River, which

is

of wood, supported

by boats,

and rises

and falls

with the Tide.</P>

<P>2. The great Church; if you will be at the

pains

to go to the Top of the Steeple you may

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ave a

verie

good prospect of the Town and Avenues,

you may also see the biggest

bell in the World called

the St. <EM>George of Amboise.</EM></P>

<P>

3. The Palace, where the Parliament

Sits;

the great Hall is

commended

for its

breadth, being

it is

without pillars,

but

9

in my opinion it comes

far short of <EM>Westminster</EM>-Hall

at <EM>London.</EM>

</P>

<P>There is

a litle

Village about half a League from the Town

called

<EM>Santeville,</EM> famous for Cream, if you please your

landlord will find you a guid

to conduct you thither. You may Herbarize by the way.</P>

<P>You may take the messenger to <EM>Paris,</EM> as

being

the easiest

way, you pay 13. or 14. <EM>Franks</EM>

a man, for which You are to be furnished

with horse, lodging

and diet to <EM>Paris,</EM> as al<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

to have Six pound weight of baggage allow'd you, But if You have

any more, You must pay for it beside; The last Meal which you

make by the way is

at <EM>Po<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>to<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

where it is

usuall

after Dinner for every Gentlman

in the company to give to the conductor a

peice

of 13. <EM>Solds.</EM></P>

<P>

At <EM>Paris</EM> I shall advise you to lodge at Mr.

<EM>Haes,</EM> They are very honest people, at least you may

stay there untill

you find the way of accommodating

your self better; he lodges

<EM>A. Fauxbourg</EM> St. <EM>Germain

rue de la bouchery;</EM> There are so many

worthie

things

to be seen

in this place that

10

I shall only name some of them,

for fear of troubling

you too much, and leave the rest to your own observation.

</P>

<P>1. See <EM>Luxemburgh</EM> palace &amp;

gardens;

<EM>Monsieur Marchant</EM>

will be a fit Person, because of his

aquaintance

there, to wait upon you.</P>

<P>2. The Kings

garden, where be sure to make a strong friendship with the

Gardner;

and You may command what You will of

Plants

or Seeds.</P>

<P>3. The Kings

Library, and especialy

there, the Books

of Minature done

by <EM>Monsieur Robert,</EM> which I look upon as the best

curiosity of that kind in the World.</P>

<P>4. The Garden of <EM>Tuilliaries.</EM></P>

<P>5. Monsieur <EM>Marchant</EM>'s

own Garden; He dwells,

<EM>Rue du Roy de</EM> Sicile

<EM>devant la nostre</EM> Dame <EM>d' Argent, deriere le petit

St.</EM> Antoin; his Gard<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n

is

hard by his house, and there You may see some curious

<EM>Plants,</EM>

not to be found elsewhere in <EM>France.</EM></P>

<P>

6. The <EM>Jesuites</EM>

College, where enquire

for some <EM>Scots</EM>

Father, and desire

11

him

to procure you a sight of the Bibliotheck,

and Mathematical House; there you will see the 3.

<EM>Systems</EM>

of the World, according

to the severall

<EM>Hypotheses</EM>

of <EM>Copernicus, Tycho Brache,</EM> and <EM>Ptolomeus,</EM>

represented

in Motion.

</P>

<P>If You be desirous to learn <EM>Chymie,</EM> You may cause

Monsieur <EM>Marchant</EM>

address You to Monsieur

<EM>Barlet;</EM> He lives

<EM>au College de</EM> Cambray, and

uses

to teach Courses;

It will cost you ten Crowns

for the Course, and two Crownes

for his Book; He demonstrates

from two a clock in the Afternoon till five, and

finisheth

his course in three weeks.

I think it might be worth your while, in regard you will

hardly

find the like Occasion any other

where.</P>

<P>I need not say any thing of the

Booksellers,

being

they are obvious <EM>A la Rue St.</EM> Jaques; for new

Books

at the Palace; for <EM>French</EM>

Books,

as <EM>Romances,</EM>

&amp;c. <EM>A la Place de</EM> Sorbone; as also at the End of

the new bridge about <EM>nostre Dame</EM> church, also at the

postern Gate of the Palace and upon the Mont <EM>St.

Hiller,</EM> for old Books

of all Sorts.</P>

<P>

12

Remember to cause Monsr. <EM>Marchant</EM>

show You a maker of Mathematical

Instruments

that lives

<EM>dans l'Isle du Palais

au Key qui est vis a vis la valle des

Miseres,</EM> and

enquire

for the designing

Instrument; about the same

place also you may be provided

of <EM>Microscops</EM> of al sorts;

If You desire to have your own, or any other Picture

done:

enquire

for Monsr. <EM>Ferdinand, Paintre sur la Fosse

an

Fauxbourgs St.

Germaine

proche l' Academy de Monsr. du</EM> Plessis, but make your

bargain before Hand.

</P>

<P>It will be worth your while to see some

places

about <EM>Paris,</EM> as particularlie,</P>

<P>1 <EM>Maisone,</EM> a very delicat House,

belonging

to the President of <EM>Maisone,</EM> &amp;

standing

upon the River of <EM>Saine,</EM> some 4.

Leagues

from <EM>Paris;</EM> From hence you must go two

Leagues

up the River, to</P>

<P>2 St. <EM>Germaine,</EM>

A House belonging

to the King; from thence four Leagues

further a little off the River, to</P>

<P>

3 <EM>Versaile,</EM> A House begun

by the late King, but finished

by the present; It is

a most delicate fine place, but (as I think)

13

there will be a Necessity of procureing

an

Order from the Superintendent of the House (who

ordinarly

resides

at court) to the <EM>Cons<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erge</EM>

of the House to show the same to you; From thence to

</P>

<P>4 <EM>Rue<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,</EM>

You have about two leagues:

it is

a prettie

little House built

by Cardinal

<EM>Richlieu;</EM>

The G<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rdens

are exceedingly

prettie,

and the Water-Works

the best in <EM>France;</EM> From thence You may come to</P>

<P>5 St. <EM>Clou,</EM> A House

belonging

to the present Duke of <EM>Orleans;</EM> From thence on your way

to <EM>Paris</EM> (which is

not above 3

Leagues)

You pass thro' a wood called

<EM>Bois de</EM> Bologne;

in which there stands

a House called

<EM>Madrid,</EM> built

by <EM>Francis</EM> I. after His Return from <EM>Spain</EM>

where He had

been

Prisoner, to save his promise of

going

back to <EM>Spain</EM> once a year. In my time there

was

a Manufactorie

for weaving

of Silk Stockings

kept

there.</P>

<P>Having

performed

this Journey in one or at the most two

days,

you may with your conveniencie

visit</P>

<P>

6 St. <EM>Denys,</EM> in the <EM>Abbey</EM> whereof there

14

is

a famous Treasurie

kept.

Remember to take Nottice of <EM>Charles</EM> the Great's

Crown, in which there is

a <EM>Rubie</EM>

of the Bigness of a Pidgeons

Egg; A large <EM>Cup</EM> of oriental <EM>Aggat,</EM> which

they count much of; One of the Nails

that fixed

our <EM>Saviour</EM>'s Bodie

to the Cross, sent

to <EM>Charles</EM> the Great by <EM>Constantine</EM> V.

Emperour

of <EM>Constantinople;</EM>

One of the <EM>Potts,</EM>

wherein our Saviour changed

the water into wine at the Marriage of <EM>Cana</EM> in

<EM>Galilee;</EM> The Pucel of <EM>Orleans</EM> Sword,

wherewith she overcame

the <EM>English;</EM> The Lantern that

was

carried

before <EM>Judas,</EM> when He betrayed

our Saviour; and a thousand other

things

of great Value. See the <EM>Tombs</EM>

likewise: You will do well to go

earlie

in the Morning that you may have time to speak to the

Religious Men,

and take their Hour of conveniencie

for seing

of the Treasure; which being

done,

you will have time enough to return to <EM>Paris.</EM>

</P>

<P>

7 I know nothing better worth your

seing

about <EM>Paris,</EM> than the <EM>Aqueduct</EM> at

<EM>Arcqueul</EM> about 2 leagues

from the town, it was

built

by <EM>Mary</EM> of <EM>Medices</EM> in the

15

time of her Regencie,

for bringing

the the water to her palace of <EM>Luxemborg.</EM>

Besides

the Aqueduct, you will also see there a

verie

fine Grotto with fine walks

and manie

prettie

Jetts

of water; one afternoon

suffice for this Journey.

</P>

<P>8. <EM>Fountainbleau,</EM>

in which there are so manie

things

considerable: not only in the House, furniture, and

painting;

but also in the Gardens,

Walks,

<EM>Fish</EM>-ponds, and water-works,

that it will be less trouble for you to observe

them

by seing,

than by a long narration; I shall only tell you for the better

improvement of your Journey thither that you will doe well first

to go to</P>

<P>9. <EM>Esson</EM> a House seven

leagues

from <EM>Paris</EM> belonging

to a private Gentleman, where you will see very fine water

works

and many other prettie

conceats;

from thence you have 3 leagues</P>

<P>

10. To <EM>Durance,</EM> a privat

House likewise, but to which

there belongs

very noble gardens

and walkes,

with delicat Ponds

and Jetts

of water. It will not be a miss to stay here all the night,

being

16

You will have 4 Leagues

to <EM>Fontainbleau,</EM> a great part of which

is

through the Forrest,

and therefore better to be gone

in the morning, when the day is

before Your hand, than in the evening when night may

surprize

You.

</P>

<P>

11. You may arrive so early in the morning at

<EM>Fountainbleau</EM>

that You may have time to see all before dinner, and

thereafter returne

to <EM>Veau,</EM> a most stately house and

gardens

correspondent to it, built

by Monsr. <EM>Fougues<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

but since his disgrace it's fallen

to the King: From hence you may

returne

a short League off your way to lodge at <EM>Melun;</EM> The

next morning You will have an

easie

Journey to <EM>Paris,</EM> and time enough if you please to

see <EM>Vinceu,</EM> within two short

Leagues

of <EM>Paris.</EM> It is

a House belonging

to the King in the middle of a verie

pleasant Park: after you have

seen

the House emember to see the Wild

Beasts

that are kept

not far from it. If You resolve upon

making

any greater

toure

into the counrey, I shall

advise You to provide a Book called

<EM>le voyage de France,</EM> of the

latest

17

edition, which will give you a hint of the most considerable

things

that are to be seen

in those Places

you go to. I shall deferr

any thing I would say further, untill

I be happie

to hear of Your safe arivall

at <EM>Paris,</EM> and then I would be content to trouble you

with an

other sheet: in the mean time I pray for Your

happie

journey and safe

returne.

</P>

<BR>

<P><B>[Postscript starts here]</B>

<BR>

Sir,

<P>I intreat You to signifie

to Mr. <EM>Hannay</EM> as also to Mr. <EM>Cranston</EM> that

if they have any thing to send to me, You will be

pleased

to take charge of it; I shall beseech You likewise to do the

same by Monsr. <EM>Marchant</EM>

at <EM>Paris.</EM></P>

</P>

<BR>

<BR><BR>

19

<BR><H4>LETTER II.</H4>

<BR><H4>Containing

Advice for makeing

the grand Toure

of France, with an

Account of what is

most observable relateing

especially

to the Natural History and Antiquities

of that Kingdom.</H4>

<BR>

Sir,

<P>

IT seems

You are not yet resolved

whither to spend the Winter in

<EM>Paris</EM> or in the Country, my opinion

is

that out of <EM>Paris,</EM> there

is

litle

thing either to be seen

or learned

in all <EM>France;</EM> But in regard

it is

pertinent for a Traveler to see some thing of the

countrie

as well as the chief Town: I shall therefore advise you to see

those Places

chieflie

that I judge most suitable to your

inclinations,

and particularie

in order to <EM>Botany,</EM> that

is

<EM>Languedock</EM>

and <EM>Provence,</EM> for altho'

there be manie

other places

of <EM>France</EM> verie

worthie

the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eing,

as particularlie

the River

20

<EM>Loyre</EM>

from <EM>Orleance</EM>

downward to <EM>Nantes,</EM>

which for the fertilitie

aud

beautie

of the countrey,

the frequencie

of good Towns

and gentle disposition and Courtesie

of the inhabitants,

is

called

the Garden of <EM>France:</EM>

yet you will find that Climate

produces

but a few things

different from <EM>Normandy</EM> or the <EM>Isle</EM> of

<EM>France:</EM> But if you should incline to see it, my

advice

is

that you should not spend much time in

doing

of it, and therefore if you think fit you may make use of the

following

Advice at your Discretion.

</P>

<P>

I suppose You leave <EM>Paris</EM> about the

beginning

of <EM>June</EM> (for I would not have you loose the Month of

<EM>May</EM> in the Kings

Garden, in regard most things

will be then, or a little before, in their Prime, which now

that the Garden of <EM>Blois</EM>

is

no more in Condition, is

undoubtedly

the best you are like to meet with) and therefore, 1. you may

go to <EM>Orleans</EM> by the Messenger: it

is

but two Days

Journie;

Lodge <EM>Chez Monsr.</EM> Ogilbie,

<EM>sur l'<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>stape

au Roy de la Grand</EM> Bretaigne;

A Day or two will serve you to see all

21

that is

considerable in the place; It will be worth your while to see

a place some two Leagues

from the City, called

the <EM>Source,</EM> where in the midst of a fair green

Meadow you will see a Spring of

Water so plentifull,

that it is

navigable from its

Head, and powrs

out a River called

<EM>Loirette. 2ly.</EM> From

<EM>Orleans</EM> to <EM>Blois,</EM> they count 15.

Leagues,

yet it is

but a short Days

Journie:

besides

if you please, you have the Commoditie

of the River to go by Boat; Be pleased

to take Notice of a place by the Way, some 4.

Leagues

from <EM>Blois,</EM> called

St. <EM>Die,</EM> where the best

<EM>Claret</EM> in that

Countrie

grows,

and is

ordinarly

to be found. <EM>Blois</EM> of itself

is

no very considerable Town, yet it

is

famous for makeing

of <EM>Watches,</EM>

for the Civilitie

of the People, for the Sweetness of the Air, and

Puritie

of the <EM>French</EM> Language. You must stay there some

Days

till you have seen

the following

Particulars;

<EM>viz.</EM> in one day you may get to <EM>Chambort,</EM> a

house belonging

to the King, some three leagues

off, on the south side of the River, and South-East from the

Town; It is

said

to

22

have been

built

by King <EM>Francis</EM> I. and

is

a very statelie

House, though of a far different Order of

<EM>Architecture</EM> than what

is

now used.

From thence you may go to <EM>Herbeau,</EM> 3.

Leagues

to the southward of that, a privat

house belonging

to a Gentleman that beares

the title thereof. It is

a very pleasant seat having

very fine Gardens

with an

Orangery, Fish-Ponds,

Woods,

Maille and Meadowes

belonging

to it; from thence you may go to <EM>Bean-Regard</EM> another

privat

house, where amongst other prettie

things

you will see a fine Gallerie

well ornamented

with the pictures

of such persons

as have been

illustrious for some age; from thence you

returne

to <EM>Blois</EM> at night, &amp; as you go and come you will

have occasion to see that

part of the forrest

of <EM>Blois</EM> that lyes

to the South of the River and town; as also a

litle

village called

St. <EM>Gervais,</EM> famous over all that

countrey

for excellent Cream; being

returned

to <EM>Blois,</EM> you may take notice of the Castle, as also

of the Garden which is

now <EM>Seges ubi Troja;</EM> the keeper of it

is

Dr. <EM>Brumer</EM>

23

my very good acquantance,

and sometimes

one of the Herbarists

to the late Duke of <EM>Orleans,</EM> as

were

also Monsr. <EM>Morison</EM>

and Monsr. <EM>Marchand;</EM>

upon any of whose accounts

or yet upon mine, I am

confident You will be very welcom

to him;

I believe You may as yet see some

Plants

in the Garden, from thence walk

towards

the <EM>Capucins</EM> or the mount, and you will have a

delicat prospect both up &amp; down the

river; from thence walk

towards

the <EM>Alleys</EM>

which you will possibly

find to be the finest

in length and breadth, and being

well planted

on either side, that you have hitherto

seen;

You may chuse

whither You will see <EM>Vendosme</EM> or not, it

being

a place not verie

considerable except for the Holy

Tea<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,

which is

preserved

in the Cathedrall

Church with much veneration,

and which people go to see out of devotion; the

toun

is

famous for makeing

of Gloves

which are accounted

the best of that countrey;

upon the returne

from that place You may see the

Fountain of

<EM>Orchaise,</EM> of old <EM>Horrcum

Caesaris</EM> (for some where

not far from thence

24

the <EM>Roman</EM> legion was

said

to be quartered)

<EM>I</EM> take the fountain to be nothing else but a rivulet

or litle

burn falling

over the Top of a soft Rock into which by

process of time it

hath

cut in a considerable way thro' the whole

deepth

of it, and being

grown

together upon the Top, it seems

now to spring out of the Rock; over against that, cross a

meadow, you must take notice of a Cave or Hole

digged

in the side of a litle

hill in which there is

an

Aromatick

kind of Earth, not much inferiour

as is

believed

to the <EM>Terra Sigillatae</EM> of <EM>Lemnos;</EM> the

common people call the place <EM>La cave de la terre

Sigille.</EM>

</P>

<P>

And here I must put you in mind that in this same meadow I

have very often seen

very large green <EM>Lizards,</EM>

which because it is

a beautifull

creature and not found with us, I must intreat you where ever

you find of them

to cause preserve 1 or 2, to add to my <EM>Tradescants.</EM> I

know not which will be the best way of

preserving

them,

whither by skinning

them,

or drying

the flesh, but I suppose the best way will be

(especially

if the skin be any

25

thing strong) to cause skin them,

preserving

the head feet

and taile,

and then stop the Skin with Flax. There are

likewise

severall

other Birds

in <EM>France</EM> which are not common with us, which I must

earnestly

intreat you to do the same by, as for example the <EM>Pie

verte</EM> or Green Pyet, <EM>&amp;c.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>3ly.</EM> from <EM>Blois</EM> you go to <EM>Amboise</EM>

in half a day by water; the boat will give you

libertie

to see the Castle; in the Chapell

whereof will be shown

You hanging

a pair of Hornes,

they say, of a Hart, the largest

and biggest

(if they be true) that ever was

seen

In the court of the Castle there

is

likewise to be seen

a Rib, and one of the Back-Bones

of the same <EM>Animal,</EM> You are

brought

out of the Castle by a Toure

whose descent is

so large and so easie,

being

without Steps,

that a Coach may drive from the

Bottome

to the Top thereof. From thence You go <EM>Tours</EM> all Night,

where</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly.</EM> In my time the best

Lodging

was

<EM>A la</EM> St. <EM>Marthe;</EM> the place

is

commended

for the Sweetness of it's Situation, the

26

delicacie

of it's Fields

and Gardens,

and many other Particulars.

It will be worth Your while to see the

Manufactories

of Silk, especially

the way of working

Tissenes, and Brocarts,

which You will see of diverse Colours

and some of Gold and Silver. The invention and way of

making

Tabbies,

which I forbear to descrive,

because You will

abundantly

discover it by sight. You must be at the

pains

to fetch a walk out of town a litle

way to see the <EM>Maille,</EM> which in any time

was

the longest

and in the best order of any in <EM>France;</EM> and at the

same time, you may go the length of the

<EM>Minims

Convent</EM> because the first instituter

of their Order St. <EM>Francois de paul,</EM>

lyes

Buried

in the Church in a marble <EM>Coffine,</EM>

as will be shown

You, which People visit with great Veneration: if you will be

at the pains

to pass the River there is

an

ascent to the <EM>Capucins</EM> whence you may discover the

whole City, and a great part of the

Countrey

about, which for it's Beauty and Fertility

is

called

the <EM>Gardin</EM> of <EM>France.</EM> and

certainly

deserves

that Name better than any Place upon

27

the whole River of <EM>Loir.</EM> There

is

likewayes

not far from <EM>Tours,</EM> a Place which they call <EM>la

cave Gutiere,</EM> From the Top of which there

drops

a Liquor

which Congeals

into a substance almost as hard as a stone not much unlike

that you sent

me from <EM>Hamiltoun.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>5ly.</EM> You may go from <EM>Tours</EM> to

<EM>Saumure</EM> a town famous

for it's Protestant University, of which we have two very

honest countrey-men

that are members,

Monsr. <EM>Doule</EM> and Monsr. <EM>Gray.</EM> You may take

the pains

to see <EM>Nostre damo d' Ardeliers</EM> a Place of great

devotion; if you please you may see the

Treasurie

which is

Rich, and as you go and come, you may observe the great Trade

of that Suburbs,

to be making

of Beads

or Chaplets;

I beseech you forget not to bring us some that are

made

of young Oranges:

If you please you may see the Castle. At <EM>Saumure</EM> you

must hire Horses

to make a litle

tour of three days,

and first you must go to <EM>Doue,</EM>

where there is

to be seen

an

ancient <EM>Amphitheatre</EM> cut out

28

of a Rock, as it is

said,

by the <EM>Romans.</EM>

There are likewise verie

many great quarries

of free stone and the Workmen

often find in cleaving

of the stones,

some litle

peices

of a finer

and harder

substance by farr

than the rest, which from the shape they have, They

comonly

call <EM>Langues de Serpents.</EM>

The little Boys

for a small matter will sell you abundance of

them

which I pray forget not to buy, If not for your own, at least

for your friends

curiositie.

From thence you must go to <EM>Thouars,</EM> a most delicate

House belonging

to the Duke of <EM>Tremoville,</EM> it

is

situat

upon a Rock, and the greatest

part of the office houses

cut out of the Solid Rock. The next Morning you go to

<EM>Waren,</EM> a verie

prettie

House but not much worth the pains

of seeing

were

it not in Your way to <EM>Richlieu,</EM>

where you are to spend the rest of that day, That you may have

the more time to view the Toun

and House, which I think so well

worthie

your seeing,

That for it's sake a Journey from <EM>Paris</EM> that length

were

not ill bestowed.

I shall say no more of

29

of it, that I may not deprive you of the <EM>Gusto</EM> of

being

surprized

with the Beautie

of it. Amongst other things

be pleased

to take notice of two Marble statues

that stand over the Gate, at the

upper end of the inner Court, as

also of a peece

of painting

in the Chapell,

that was

left by way of Legacie

to the <EM>Cardinall</EM>

by Monsieur <EM>de Mont Morency,</EM> when he

was

Beheaded

at <EM>Thoulouse.</EM> There are two

Books

the one in 40. the other in 80.

containing

the Figure of the House, and parts

thereof; they are sold,

as I take it, by the Porter, of

whom

I intreat you to buy them

for me.

</P>

<P>

The third day you may Dine at <EM>Loudun</EM>

where in my time there was

a Religious Woman, that

had

been

formerly

Possessed.

At the time of her cure which they say

was

Miraculous there was

found Written

on her hand <EM>JESVS

MARIA JOSEPH,</EM> which still remained

indelible. If she be yet

alive you May see it. From thence you

returne

by <EM>Shinon,</EM> where they say the famous <EM>Francis

Rablais</EM> had

his first breeding

in an

old convent,

30

From thence you pass throw Most

delicate

Meadows

called

the <EM>Valey</EM>

of <EM>Shinon,</EM> and in your way to <EM>Saumure</EM> some

three Leagues

from the Town you may see a Monasterie

of Religious Women

whereof the Lady

<EM>Abbas</EM> in my time was

the Queen-Mothers

Sister of Great <EM>Brittain.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>6ly.</EM> You may hire horses

to <EM>La Fleche,</EM> where the only thing considerable

is

the <EM>Jesuits</EM>

Colledge.

It is

a most noble Structure, and by far the best they have in France.

Take Particular notice of their Church where the heart of

<EM>Henry</EM> the <EM>4th</EM> who

gave

them

that House is

kept:

The Bibliotheck: The Theatre-hall: their Office

houses,

particularly

the Kitchen; the Bake-house, where one Man and a Dog

makes

bread for all the Colledge

every day: the Myln where the Water that

moves

the Wheele

doeth

likewise move a Pump that furnisheth

water to the whole Colledge.

The best lodging

was

<EM>Au quatre Vents.</EM>

From hence you must again take horse to <EM>Angiers.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>7ly</EM> It is

a Town famous for the Profession

of Laws,

and hath

likewise a

31

Faculty of Physick:

See the great Church called

St. <EM>Maurice,</EM> and therein one of those

pots

in which our <EM>Saviour</EM> converted

the water into Wine at the Marriage of <EM>Cana</EM> in

<EM>Galile.</EM>

See the <EM>Maill,</EM> and at the end of it next the town the

<EM>Minims

Convent.</EM> You will find in their Garden

severall

Kinds

of <EM>Ilex;</EM> You will likewise find in

severall

places

of the Countrey

not far from the Town severall

sorts

of <EM>Pinastres,</EM> as also a kind of Fruit tree

called

<EM>Cormes,</EM> not mnch unlike our Raun-tree, the Fruit

whereof hangs

in Clusters

like our <EM>Roddens:</EM> but of

an

other colour, and bigness every one

being

as big as a Plumb. A League or two from the town

towards

the East, are the <EM>Pierries</EM> or

quarries,

of blew

Skleat called

<EM>Ardoise</EM> which serve the

greatest

part of <EM>France:</EM> See the Castle, and in it that famous

crib where <EM>Rene</EM> King of

<EM>Sicilie</EM>

and Duke of <EM>Anjou</EM> imprisoned

his Queen out of Jealousie

all the days

of her life. About half a League distant from the town,

doun

the River stands

a Convent called

<EM>Bamet,</EM> worthie

of seeing;

32

there is

likewise on the other side of the River

an

old Abbacie

called

<EM>Les Bons Hommes,</EM> near to which there

is

a litle

lake, which I suppose to have been

the place where the blew

Sklate was

dug of old; you will find about the

sides

of it, aboundance

of <EM>Tribulus aquaticus,</EM> the Fruit thereof

is

ripe in the Moneth

of <EM>August;</EM> they use to Boyll

them

and Sell them

as they do <EM>Chasnuts,</EM> from which they differ not much

in Tast

or Quality, but verie

much in Figure, and therefore be

pleased

to provide a Quantitie

of them

for your self and Friends.

You may likewise dry the Plant, if you think fit.

</P>

<P>

<EM>8ly</EM> You May go If you please from <EM>Angiers</EM> to

<EM>Nantes</EM>

either by Water or by Land, in one day; It

is

a prettie

town and stands

upon the <EM>Loir</EM> and the Sea

flowing

up above the town gives

Commodity to

Ships

of a considerable Burden to

come up to the Town. It is

here that the greatest

part of the Wines

that grow upon this River or near to it,

together with the

Brandie

made

thereof, which are carried

out of <EM>France,</EM> are Imbarked.

33

You must return again to <EM>Angiers,</EM>

and from thence to <EM>Paris</EM> with the Messenger. It

is

a Journey of five days,

and all that I know considerable in it,

is

first, That when You come near to

<EM>Mans</EM>

(which you will leave at a Leagues

Distance, upon the

Le<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>t Hand)

You will find in aboundance

a Kind of <EM>Cistus,</EM> not mentioned

by any that I know of, except

<EM>Petrus Bellonius.</EM> Forget not to

preserve a Branch or two,

which You may Fold in your <EM>Portefoile,</EM> which for such

rancounters

you'l do well to be stil

Provided

of, and You may cause make them

of what Bigness You please, and have

them

furnished

with <EM>Gray Paper</EM> within. I

did

allways

use to Carry one of a 40 Form, with good Tyers to it in a

<EM>Carpet</EM> Bag (such as

they use in <EM>France</EM>) tyed

to the Tore of my Saddle, so that if it

was

My Fortune to Meet with any thing by the Way worth the

Gathering,

I could easily

take it and preserve it with out

being

in Danger to Loss my Companie.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Town of <EM>Chartres;</EM> in the great

Church whereof (which is

a

34

most stately Fabrick)

K. <EM>Henry</EM> IV. was

Sacred. It is

a Place of great Devotion, and there

is

kept

in it amongst other Relicts,

one of our <EM>Ladys</EM> smocks.

You wil

meet with several litle

shops

near to the <EM>church,</EM> where the chief Trade

is

<EM>Beads,</EM>

and as they call them

<EM>des Chemises

de Chartres,</EM> which Devout People Buy and append to their

Chaplets,

and then get them

to Touch the Relicts,

according

to the Custom.

</P>

<P>

You may furnish this Journey, and have Time enough at

<EM>Paris</EM> to Prepare your Self for the Journey to

<EM>Provence</EM> and <EM>Languedock</EM>

before the <EM>Dog-Days</EM>

be ended,

at which Time it will be fit to

begin your Journey. And

<EM>1st.</EM> You may take the Messenger to

<EM>Lions;</EM>

I think You must Pay about twentie

Crowns;

for the Journey

is

of nine Days;

There are not many

things

considerable to be seen

by the way; only take Notice <EM>1st</EM> at <EM>Nevers</EM>

of the Glass-Works,

and <EM>Faiance,</EM> or white Lame-works,

of which the best in <EM>France</EM> are here. <EM>2ly.</EM>

At <EM>Mouline</EM> (where you will fall to Dine)

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>quire for

the

35

monasterie

where the body of Monsr. <EM>de Monmorancy</EM>

is

in<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erred,

You may see a very stately Monument of Marble. The Town

is

famous for the Manufactorie

of Knives

and Scissers.

You will not miss to be troubled

with a company of Women,

who wait upon the arrivall

of Strangers,

to show them

quantities

of this kind o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

ware in hopes

to Sell some. 3ly. Take notice of the Well of <EM>Pouge,</EM>

the water is

Alummous and boills up in great quantity, of a whiteish

colour, as if there were

meal mixed

with it. 4ly. <EM>Roane;</EM>

which is

said

to be the largest

Bourg in <EM>France:</EM> they call that Bourg which

is

not incompassed

with wall or ditch. The <EM>Loir</EM>

begins

to be Portable here and cary Boats,

But it's source is

many Leagues

higher.

5ly. <EM>Mont tarare;</EM> It is

a very great Hill, and here You will find a change of the

climate together with the change of

Plants,

which I leave to Your observation, and think it will be worth

Your while at night to make a note of all those

Plants

that You meet with. Being

arrived

at <EM>Lions</EM>

You must stay some

36

time to see the place, which altho'

in regard of

its

situation amongst Hils

and Rivers,

it be somewhat unwholsome,

the Air, being

either too moist, or in Summer t<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

hot; yet I look upon it as one of the best and most important

Towns

in <EM>France,</EM> both for the magnificknesse of the

Buildings,

the great tra<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ique

it hath

with almost all Places

of the World, to which the situation of it betwixt two

Rivers,

the <EM>Soane</EM> and the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

is

no small advantage; for by the <EM>Soane</EM> it

hath

Communion not only with <EM>Burgundie,</EM>

but also with the <EM>Ocean;</EM> for <EM>Chalon</EM> which

stands

upon the <EM>Soane,</EM> is

but a days

Journey from <EM>Auxere,</EM>

which stands

upon the <EM>Saine,</EM> and that River you know

disimbogues

it self in the <EM>Ocean</EM> at

<EM>Haver<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>degrace.</EM>

By the <EM>Rhosne,</EM>

it hath

communion with the

Mediterranean Sea, and consequently,

with all the <EM>Levant.</EM> The <EM>Soane</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Araris</EM> is

a Pleasant and very soft flowing

River; the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

is

<EM>Fluviorum Rapidissimus.</EM> The people are very ingenious

and dextrous in the matter of traffick

and business, they

37

are likeways

courteous &amp; human, your most convenient

Lodging,

will be <EM>Auxtrois-Rois:</EM>

It is

a good House and nea<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

to the place where the Messenger of

<EM>Paris</EM>

arrives.

As also to the Post-House. Remember to see the

<EM>Maisone-de-Villo</EM> which without exception

is

the most stately in

<EM>France:</EM> Take particular notice of

its

Fabrick,

Statues,

Paintings,

and ancient

Inscriptions,

of which some are extant upon

Brass, its

Fountain's, courts,

&amp;c. 2. See the great Church of St. <EM>John,</EM> and in

it a most Stately and Curious Clock, upon the upper part of

which, i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>mediately

before the hour strike, the blessed

<EM>Virgine</EM>

appears

with the <EM>Angel</EM> before her, as she

uses

to be represented

at the <EM>Annunciation,</EM> and within a little, a Cock upon

the top claps

his Wings

and Crows,

and then the hour strikes.

There is

likeways

considerable in it, a Hand that

points

the minut

of the hour upon the O<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>al,

and altho'

the parts

of an

Oval line, be not equally

distant from the center yet the Hand which

is

fixed

in the center, doth alwayes

reach

38

that line and never exceed it, in the whole compase it

maketh.

<EM>3ly.</EM> There is

an

Old Monument about the midle

of that <EM>Fauxbourgh,</EM>

by which the Messenger of <EM>Paris</EM>

enters

they call it <EM>Tombeau-de-deux Amants.</EM> It

seems

to be of <EM>Roman</EM> antiquitie.

4ly, See the Bishops

House &amp; and Gardens,

the great Place before it, the Bridge over the

<EM>Rhosne:</EM>

And in short consider the Avenues

and Compass of the Town.

</P>

<P>5ly. Forget not to take with you your Catalogue of

Books,

for there are many Booksellers

in this Place, that have great Magazins

of Books,

and have great traffick

with all <EM>Germany, Swizerland</EM> and <EM>Italy,</EM> and it

is

very like, you may come by Books

here that you missed

of at <EM>Paris;</EM> For so it

happened

to my self.</P>

<P>

I must not omit in this place to tell you that it will be

expedient, to draw your Money from <EM>Paris,</EM> to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

either by Bill of Ex-change, or

Letter of credit, upon some honest,

substantiall

Merchant, to whom

yon must be sure to yet good Recommendation: By his

means

39

you may return your Money, to any

other place as you shall have

occasion, and likeways

be furnished

with new recommendations

as you desire; &amp; this way you may make your Money march

from place to place, without fear or danger; and if you light

upon honest Men

the Exchange will cost you

nothimg, unless it be from <EM>Paris</EM> to

<EM>Lions;</EM>

because of the disrance and that will not be above half a one

<EM>per-Cent:</EM> Your Merchant at

<EM>Lions,</EM>

will be a convenient Steple

for receiving

your Letters,

or any thing else, that you please to send from any other

place, and to send it forward to <EM>Paris,</EM> to be

keept

for you. By them

you shall give advice to receive it from the

Carriers,

or otherways to the Merchant, that

returnes

your Money to <EM>Lions:</EM>

But of these things

I have said

enough, for I doubt not that you are

sufficiently

informed

of them

already.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Lions,</EM>

you take Boat to <EM>Avignion,</EM>

which is

about fi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>tie

Leagues:

if the River be not very low, which seldom

happeneth,

you would go near to accomplish

40

it, in two days

and a half, or three at most.

</P>

<P>

You have to take notice of, by the way <EM>1st. Vienne,</EM> a

little but ancient Town, five Leagues

from <EM>Lions.</EM>

See the forges

where they make Sword-blades,

the Haminers are moved

by a Wheell which the Water turns,

so that the Stroakes

are both frequent and

equall.

The Town hangs

upon the side of a Hill toward

the River. 2ly. some nine Leagues

from <EM>Vienne,</EM> there is

an

old Castle called

<EM>Le Maisone de Pillate,</EM> the place

is

no otherways considerable

than for having

been

the retreat of <EM>Pontius Pilate,</EM>

driven

here, by, God knows,

what accident. 3ly. <EM>Valence,</EM> a

Pretie

Town only considerable for its

University. 4ly. <EM>Le

Pont-Sanct-Esprite</EM> seventeen

Leagues

lower than <EM>Valence,</EM> the Town

is

not very considerable, but only for the Bridge, from whence it

takes

its

name, and which at that place stands

upon the <EM>Rhosne;</EM>

that which renders

the Bridge so considerable, is

the breadth of the River, and Impetuosity of the current; for

besides

other small Rivers,

both the

41

<EM>Soane</EM> and the <EM>Isere,</EM> a little before You

come at <EM>Valence,</EM> and several others

below that, loss themselves

therein.

</P>

<P>

When you come at <EM>Avignion,</EM>

You may lodge at <EM>Louxenbourg.</EM> The Town and Country

belongs

to the <EM>Pope,</EM> whose Legate

resides

in Quality of Governour.

It will be fitting

to stay here some Days,

that You may the better take Notice of the

following

Particulars.

1. The Churches

and Religious Houses.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Legat's

Palace. <EM>3ly.</EM> The Situation, and

<EM>Avenues</EM>

of the Town, together with the Walls

thereof, which are high and stately,

and it will be worth Your while to go about

them

in regard of the Occasion You will have to Herbarize, for here

you will find many Plants

that did

not appear in any other part of your Journey. <EM>4ly.</EM>

The <EM>Jurie</EM>

or <EM>Cantone</EM> of the Town where the

<EM>Jewes</EM>

dwell, I advise You by all means

if You can stay of a <EM>Saturday</EM> to see their

<EM>Synagogue</EM> and manner of Worship, and if you be

Curious and make Enquiry, You may

possibly

see a <EM>Circumcision. 5ly.</EM> You may hire

Horse<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

42

to <EM>Orange,</EM> which is

but half a days

Journie

up the River. The Town and Principality

belongs

to the Prince of <EM>Orange;</EM> It

is

an

ancient, tho' little Town; It was

considerable in My time for the

Castle, which

was

very Strong, both by Art, and by

its

natural Situation, which was

so high, that from thence one might have

discovered

seven or eight Provinces

about, at least some part o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

them:

the Town hath

an

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>niversity

tho' not very considerable; The

inhabitants

for the most part are Protestants.

There are yet extant some Monuments

of antiquitie,

<EM>viz</EM> a Triumphal <EM>Arch</EM> a

lttle

without the Town, and some ruins

of a Theatre within the Town, both of which

shows

something of the <EM>Roman</EM> Greatness, in Respect of

Modern Times;

The Coun<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ry

about is

fertile, and there are whole <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lds

of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ron.

I think it might be well worth the while to

enquire

about the best way of

P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>anting,

cultivating,

gathering

and preparing

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> it.

Having

seen

these thing and Dyned,

You return to Your Lodging

at <EM>Avignion</EM>

the same

43

day. The next day you take Horses

for <EM>Aix,</EM> which is

about two days

Journey or two days

and a half a most. If You depart from

<EM>Avignion</EM>

early in the morning You will

have time enough to see <EM>Vauclus,</EM> which

is

three Leagues

from <EM>Avignion</EM>

and then to go Dine at <EM>Cavaillion.</EM>

I look upon <EM>Vaucluse</EM> as one of the most considrable

things

I have ever seen:

it is

a fountain at the foot of a great Rock very Large and

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>f immense

deepness, which

poures

out so much Water as to Move four or five

Milnes

about half a Mile below. It is

observed

that the Water Diminishes

and increases

according

to the season of the Year. In rainy Weather it

abounds

most, and Yet when you consider the position of it, how much

it is

elevated

above the plain, and what vast hills

and Rocks

are about it, It is

not conceaveable with what other Water&#0183; it should have

any communion. The River that comes

from it tumbles

over so many stones

and Craigs;

that it makes

a noise like the <EM>Catarracks,</EM> and

having

neer

three quarters

of a Mile to

44

fall, it becomes

exceeding

swift before it arrive the Plain, and there

divides

it self in two, and incloses

a litle

Meadow in Form of an

Isle, and then joyns

again. The Water is

so Clear, finding

nothing among the

Rocks

to Defile it, that notwithstanding

its

Swiftness, yet it hinders

not the grass to grow in it's bed. The

Fiver

is

likewise recomended

for excellent Trouts

and Crawfish and it is

agreeable to Reason they should be good that live in so pure

streams;

When You come the length of the

Mil<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s you

must quite Your Horse, to walk up

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o the

<EM>Sour<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,</EM>

&amp; and for that <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

must take a guide, without which the way

is

not easie.

As You go up you will observe upon the other side, in two

other places,

the Ruins

of two old Castles,

the one standing

about a Musket shot higher

than the other, in the uppermost whereof

did

sometimes

live that Noble Philosopher, and Poet <EM>Franciscus

P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>trarcha</EM>

and in the lower <EM>Donna Laura</EM> his

Mistriss,

in the praise of whose beautie

and vertue

he composed

his most excelent

<EM>Triumfe d' Amore;</EM>

45

a Monument that hath

outlasted

her familie,

in which her Memorie

is

like to live as long as Wit and

Learning

continues

in reputation. You may also in this place take notice of the

Paper-Milns and consider that so

usefull

art of makeing

Paper, and labour to informe

yourself well of all the

particulars

that when GOD shall be pleased

to return you, you may make it Practicable in your own

Countrey.

I am

sure we want not Linnen

rags

in abundance which might be preserved

for this use, and not thrown

into the Dunghill's, were

people put once in the right way.

</P>

<P>From hence you go to Dine at

<EM>Cavaillion;</EM> in the

rest of the Journey to <EM>Aix,</EM> there

is

nothing considerable, only you have a River to pass by boat

called

<EM>Durance. Aix,</EM>

is

one of the most delicate Towns

in <EM>France,</EM> It's the Capitall

City of <EM>Provence</EM> and the seat of a Parliament. The

streets

are large, especialy

one great street, the Buildings

fair and stately, The City well

watered

and the Air very healthfull

and Sweet.</P>

<P>

46

From hence you go to <EM>Marseilles</EM> in half a day, you

may lodge at <EM>a l' Aigle</EM> or <EM>al' teste noire.</EM>

You must resolve to stay two or three

days

at least, for the more commodious

seeing

and observing

the following

things.

<EM>1st.</EM> the Harbory or Port, which

is

very spicious and deep, and exceedingly

well guarded,

having

upon he entrie

thereof to the Sea ward, which is

very narrow, not only a chain drawn,

but also a very strong Citidale,

built

within these seven or eight years,

upon the one side o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

it, and an

other <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ort

upon a litle

Island within the Sea, at a leagues

distance from the entrie,

all which rendreth it most secure from the <EM>Algiers</EM>

and <EM>T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ies</EM>

Men

of Warr

and other Pyrats.

<EM>2ly.</EM> the Cathedrall

Church, which you may easily

guesse

to be very ancient, from the Modell

and Architectu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e

thereof. It was

first extructed

in the honor

of <EM>Digna</EM> by the <EM>Greek Phocenses,</EM> who

had

a Colonie

here. <EM>3ly.</EM> Take notice in the

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> before the

Church upon the wall looking

to the Sea, of nine or ten large Brass

Guns,

which use upon the

47

day of the Towns

great Festivitie

(which is

sometime in <EM>October</EM>) to be

loaden

with Bull and discharged

by so many of the best gunners

of the Town, a<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ter

great Mass is

ended,

at a white mark placed

on the Side of the hill, on the other side of the Harbour. He

that shoots

nearest

the Mark is

esteemed

the best Gunner for that year. They begin to fire just as the

<EM>Arch-Bishop</EM> comes

out of the Church. Who having

celebrated

Mass in <EM>Pontificalibu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

returnes

to his own Hous<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

accompanied

with the Consul and chief Magistrats

of the Place, and generally

a<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>l the

Gentlemen

&amp; citizens

of the best fashion, in their

best apparell

and a great consort of Musick.

<EM>4ly. Nostre dame de la gard,</EM>

a Castle upon the Top of the Hill to the Southward of the

Town, in in the going

thither, you will do well to bestow a whole day, and take with

you a couple of Souldiers,

from the Citidale, or else a

Couple of other Souldiers

armed

at least with Swords,

and let one of them

cary a couple of botles

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> Wine

with bread and what else you think fit,

48

as provision for that day, the other may cary a Basket with

you emptie,

being

thus accourted, you may Herbarize upon the way to the Castle,

and put a litle

quantitie

of every Herb you find into your

emptie

basket, the better to judge of it at your return; as also of

what Seeds

you find you may put up some for your own and

friends

use, you may returne

by the way of the Sea, and so Herbarize all

thereabouts.

It is

a most excellent place for Varietie

of Plants,

amongst the rest take

particular notice of the <EM>Tarto<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rair

Massiliensium,</EM> upon the Sea side you may likewise take

notice, what Stones

or shells,

Mosses

or any other naturall

curiosities

you can observe, &amp; if any be worth the

preserving

bring them

along with you. <EM>5ly</EM> I would have you bestow half a

day in a boat upon the Sea without the Harbour, but so as it

be very calm, for then you will

easily

se the botom

of the Water, especially

where it is

not very deep, because the Water

hath

no Motion of ebbing

or flowing,

and so you may possibly

49

light upon curiosities

worth the gathering,

for the taking

up of which, you must provide Creepers,

which the Seamen

know how to use. <EM>6ly.</EM> Take notice of the situation

Fabrick,

and Avenues

of the Town, especially

some Shops

upon the Shoare,

where you will find many curiosities,

especially

from the <EM>Levant.</EM> I must recommend my self to you

here, but especially

for a good handsome Tree of

red Corall;

as also one of those that are black, but are not true

Corall,

and what else you think fit; I shall hold you good accompt,

for all expenses;

you may send them

with your own things

to <EM>Lions,</EM>

with Order to your Friend there to send

them

to <EM>Paris,</EM> to be received

by your Factor and keept

for you. <EM>7ly.</EM> The Place

is

commended

for perfumes,

sweet-Powders,

<EM>Franchipane</EM>-Gloves,

&amp;c. But there is

great cheating

both in the Prices

and Quantities

of the things;

therefore take heed to your self, if you buy any of

them:

I did

formerly

forget to tell you that <EM>Avignion</EM>

is

famous for the same things,

but especially

for Gloves;

whereof the Manufactorie

50

is

very good; and Essences.

But now I return to <EM>Marsails</EM> where <EM>8ly.</EM> Take

occasion frequently

to view the Fish-market, where you will not miss to see great

variety of strange Fishes

well worth the observing,

and for that end I wish you to acquaint your self with the

<EM>Icones

Piscium,</EM> together with their description, by <EM>Petrus

Bellonius,</EM> it is

in a Long 80. and not very thick, &amp; therefore you may take

it along with you from <EM>Pari.</EM> If any of these

Fishes

which are not common with us can be

preserved

or keept

any way; as I doubt not but you will find

inventions

to do it, you will exceedingly

oblidge

us to bring them

along with you, or send them

as said

is:

Be pleased

to enquire

<EM>ches les Espiciers</EM> for a kind of Seed which they call

<EM>Graine

d' Avignion,</EM>

they sell it in great quantity to

Dyers

who use it for Dying

Yellow; it is

the <EM>Lycium Gallicum Dalechampij;</EM> It

is

a Shrub not common here, nor yet in the North of

<EM>France,</EM> and therefore worth the

taking

notice of; I would have you bring us some quantity of the

graine

51

for a Show about an

ounce or so: But because I suspect, that which the

Grossers

sell is

dryed;

therefore I think it will be more profitable to search at

<EM>Avignion,</EM>

where it grows

plentifully,

for some that is

better conditioned

for your own use. In your herborization at

<EM>Marsaills</EM>

especially

upon the Hill, amongst other rare

Plants,

you will find <EM>Mypum Montis Ceti, sive herba terribilis

Narb<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>nsium

Lobelij.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>9ly.</EM> Take a view of the Country

about <EM>Marsaills</EM> from some

eminent Place, especially

east from the Town, where the fertility

is

so great and the Country-Houses,

and Gardens,

so thick, that they use to call it the

<EM>Suburbs</EM>

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Marsaills,</EM> and say merrily,

that <EM>Marsaills</EM> and its

suburbs

is

bigger

than <EM>Paris:</EM> The great conveniencie

of these Houses

is

to acc<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>mmodat

the Citizens

with a retireing

Place, in time of Plague, as also to divert themselves in

Summer, and to provide necessars for House

keeping.</P>

<P>

At <EM>Marsaills</EM> you must hire

Horses

to <EM>Frayole,</EM> which is

some three dayes

Journey

52

east ward toward <EM>Neice;</EM>

In this Journey, besides

the things

of Pleasure you will see in this

higher

<EM>Provence,</EM> you will have the best herborization,

almost all the way, that you can

possibly

desire; you must part from <EM>Marsaills</EM> early in the

morning, that you may have the more time to herbarize by the

way, &amp; that you may arrive in good time

before it be Night at

<EM>Saincte

Beaume,</EM> a Place of much Devotion, and the

greatest

Solitude in the World. In the

midle

of a vast and terrible Rock, there

is

a great cave where St. <EM>Maria Magdalen</EM>

did

pennance

for many years

before her Death: it's now upon that consideration

turned

into a Chapell,

with some few Rooms

clacht up against the face of a Rock, like a Bird cage upon

the side of a Wall, where some Religious

Men

(as I think <EM>Jacobins</EM>)

keep the Place, and serve the cure in the Chapel every Day

receiving

confessions,

&amp; giving

the Sacraments

to such as require them.

There is

a little kind of a chainge-house close to it, that

provides

Meat for Men

and Horses,

at

53

their own expences,

but you mnst lye

within the convent; in the morning you must take a Guide to

the Top of the Craig, where there

is

an

other Chapel of Devotion just in that Place where the

Angels

did

use once a Day, to carrie

the <EM>Saincts,</EM>

from the cave to administer consolation to her. As you go and

come you may herbarize, for the whole side of the Hill before

you come at the Rock, is

a Wood: Upon your Arrival at the convent it

is

expedient to give some

little thing out of Charity,

which I think is

bestowed

in maintaining

the place. You will ordinarly

find without the Chapel Door, some few little

Merchants

that sell Reads,

and amongst other

things,

Silk-Cords

of the just length and greatnes

of the <EM>Saint,</EM> all which People use to buy and

carrie

in to the Chapel, there to touch the

Statue of the

<EM>Sainct;</EM>

which l<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>es

just in that Place, and in that Posture, that she

used

to do pennance

in; you will likeways

see within the Chapel a very Large Well of good Water, which

they say did

first spring there by miracle, for

54

use of the <EM>Sainct.</EM>

From hence you take Horses

to <EM>Sainct

Maximine,</EM> a little Town, in the great Church whereof,

amongst other reliques,

the Body of St. <EM>Maximine,</EM>

Uncle to St. <EM>Mary Magdalen,</EM> &amp;

sometimes

Bishop of <EM>Marsaills,</EM> is

preserved:

If you please you may take this

opportunity of

seeing

it, and there dyne,

for it is

a little out of your way to <EM>Brignole,</EM>

where you must lye

the second Night, and the Day following

you Dine at a Village called

<EM>Luques,</EM> and then go to

lye

ae <EM>Frayote,</EM> or <EM>Freust,</EM> which you please to

call it. Its

a Town of <EM>Roman</EM> antiquity, of which there are yet

some rests

to be seen,

as aqueducts,

&amp;c. The Town is

not otherways considerable at all; you will do well here,

besides

your own Guide that goes

along with you to take another Man from the Town, with

an

emptie

Basket, to wait upon you to the

Hil,

called

<EM>Astral,</EM> about a League from the Town, where you will

have one of the most pleasant Heborizations

in the World: Amongst a great variety of

Shrubs,

Plants,

and Trees,

55

you will find a great Number of <EM>Arbutus,</EM>

loaden

with Fruit, of a most Beautifull

aspect; yet, somewhat insipid to the taste, It may

safely

be eaten,

but doth not much allure the taste. Several kind of Spinous

Shrubs,

amongst which <EM>Acaeia Secunda Dioscorides</EM> sive

<EM>Aspalathus,</EM> when you come upon the Top of the

Hil,

upon the way to <EM>Neice,</EM>

there is

an

<EM>Inn,</EM> where you may make a Shift for Dinner, and a

little beyond it, upon the North-side of the

Hil,

you will meet with aboundance

of Cork-Trees,

<EM>Ilex, Abics, Picca,</EM> &amp;c.

</P>

<P>

I must give you notice here, that in this place, you are not,

above two or three hours

ryding,

from <EM>Cane,</EM> a Village, upon the Sea-side, some eight

or nine Leagues

distant from <EM>Neice,</EM>

where (were

you to go to <EM>Italy,</EM>) you might

commodiously

hire a <EM>Fel<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>oque</EM>

of two Oares

a side for <EM>Genova,</EM>

and arrive there in four or five

days,

<EM>Ter a Terre,</EM> that is

Landing

every Day to your Dinner, and to your

Lodging,

in some convenient Town: But I shall say nothing of

<EM>Italy,</EM> untill

I understand

56

from your self, that you have a design for it.

</P>

<P>I shall therefore returne

to <EM>Astrate,</EM> where having

satisfied

your self, with herbarizing

you may returne

to <EM>Freiust;</EM> loaden

with Seeds,

and Plants,

and there consider them

at your ease: From thence you may return to <EM>Marseills</EM>

in two days

and so to <EM>Avignion,</EM>

by the way of <EM>Arles, Sainct

Eloy de Cro<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Tarascon.</EM> At <EM>Arles,</EM> remember to see the entry into

a great Passage all Vaulted,

which they say goes

under the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

to <EM>Nismes,</EM> &amp; was

made

by the <EM>Romans.</EM>

At <EM>Tarascon,</EM> you will see on the other side of the

River <EM>Bea<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>caire,</EM>

most famous for a very great Faire

or Market, keept

there once a Year, to which great

Numbers

of Merchants

from many Places

of the <EM>Levant,</EM> do resort.</P>

<P>

From <EM>Avignion,</EM>

you go <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

<EM>Nismes,</EM> but you must part by

times

in the morning that you may

have the conveniencie

to see <EM>Pont de Gard,</EM>

which is

one of the finest

Peeces

of Antiquity extant in the World. It

is

a Part of that A

57

Aqueduct, which the <EM>Romans</EM>

built

for conveying

a part of the water of the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

from the <EM>Pont</EM> St. <EM>Esprite</EM> to

<EM>Nismes,</EM> &amp; because at the Place where the Bridge

stands,

the River <EM>Gard</EM>

runs

low betwixt two

Hills,

there was

a necessity of raising

the Aqueduct so high as to level

the Tops

of these Hils,

therefore it hath

three Ranges

of <EM>Arches,</EM>

the lowermost are the

biggest

but fewest

in number; they are

likeways

the broadest,

for besides

that they support the second row of

<EM>Arches,</EM>

they do likeways

serve on the other side for a Passage and Bridge for foot,

Horse&#0183; and coaches

to the high-way: The second supports

the third, which are not so high, but many more in number, on

the Top of all is

the Aqueduct five or six foot broad, and four or five foot

deep, it is

compassed

with great Flag Stones

on all sides,

exceedingly

well cemented

together, insomuch that I beleeve

it be yet very intire,

except it be some few of the covering

Stones

that are broak

and fallen

away.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Nismes</EM> is

some three Leagues,

but

58

they are long ones,

from the <EM>Pont de Gard;</EM>

And I must tell you, altho'

the way you are to follow from <EM>Avignion</EM>

to <EM>Nismes,</EM> by the <EM>Pont de

Gard,</EM>

be for the most part very barren, yet you will find the

Weeds

for the most part are, <EM>Cistum ledum Narbonense, thime,

lavender, Satureia, mirtles,

timelaea, corranda, Smilax aspera, Lentiscus, Terebinthinus,

Staebe Salamantica, caliculis argenteis B. Ilex, Sabina

baccifera, Iunip: fructu majori,

Cistus mas, Cistus faemina, thymum cephaloton</EM>

</P>

<P>

Clematis, vel flammula repens, aespalathus&#0183; phyllarelea

Folio non serrata, Jesiminum luteum bacciferum, Stellaria

argente<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Ambrosia campestris, datura simplici

calice

albo, aster attious foliolis ad florem rigidis, aster lunariae

folio, flore trifolij. Jacea cianoides flore albo folio

multifido, trifolium

bituminosum, acarna lutea, Eringium

luteum monspel: bicopsis flore carnec, Carduus Spharocephalus

ceruleus, amaranthus

viridis, campanula flore plumeo, attriplex non

descript<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Semine singulari

59

binis foliolis incluso, Linaria minor

lutea, paliurus <EM>and a great

many more that I cannot remember of; but it will be well worth

the while to take a Note of the

Plants

you find in every Place.</EM>

</P>

<P>

At <EM>Nismes</EM> you must lodge <EM>Aux

Arenes;</EM> you will see

there a brave Amphitheatre

built

by the <EM>Romans,</EM>

in greater

integritie

yet than any that ever I saw

in <EM>Italy,</EM> the Stones

of which it is

built,

as well as the <EM>Pont de Gard,</EM>

are of incredible Bigness, and altho'

the things

themselves be somewhat ruined;

yet they show greater

Statelynesse and Magnificence than any modern

Building. There are some

other remaine<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

of antiquitie

about the Town which will be showen

you. From <EM>Nismes</EM> you take

Horses

for <EM>Mompellier,</EM> which is

a Days

Journey from it; You dine at <EM>Lunel</EM> which

is

about mid-way, and because I have nothing to say of this

Place, I shall intreat you to bring me three or four

ounces

of the Seeds

of <EM>palliurus,</EM> for amongst other

uses

they

60

serve for, they are the best Bullets

for Cauters that can be, but it

is

for an

other use I would have

them.

</P>

<P>You will do well to stay some

days

at <EM>Montpellier:</EM> You may lodge at the <EM>white

Horse,</EM> or otherways as you find your accommodation. It

is

a delicat sweet Town, the Streets

well built,

but narrow, because of the heats

which are as great here as in any place of <EM>France,</EM> nor

is

it strange it should be so, being

it is

near upon the same latitude with <EM>Rome.</EM> You will do well

to see the Physick

Schools,

there is

some Curiosities

to be seen

in them.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Physick-Garden;

in which you will find many excellent

Plants;

by making

a little acquaintance with

the Gardener, you may command what

Seeds

he has.</P>

<P>

<EM>3ly.</EM> You will do well to make

acquaintance with some of

the Students

or young Doctors

of Physick,

by whose means

and in whose company you may see all the

places

about <EM>Monpelier</EM> that are fit for

Herbarizing,

as particularly

<EM>Magelon,</EM> a little Island of the

Mediterranean

61

Sea, lying

within Sight of <EM>Monpellier.</EM> But by all

means

of the World, you must be sure to make a Journey ten or twelve

Leagues

from <EM>Mompellier,</EM> to a Place amongst the

Hils,

which for the great varity

of Plants,

that is

found in and about it, is

called

<EM>Hortus Dei.</EM>

</P>

<P>You may likeways

find some variety of Shells

and productions

of the Sea, to <EM>Mompellier</EM> and the

Shoar,

or Coast, which is

near the Town.</P>

<P>I must not omit to tell you, that if you please to make a

Collection of dry Plants,

this is

a very fit Place for it, both because of the heat which

helps

to dry them,

both soon and well; &amp; also because

of the Garden &amp; Fields,

that abound with Plants,

that are not common, &amp; likeways,

because of the good occasion you have to send

them

in a Box, close packt

up, (as you have seen

mine) to <EM>Lions,</EM>

&amp;c.</P>

<P>

In like manner, if you will make a Collection of

Seeds,

the best will be to keep them

in their Seed-Vessels,

and

62

write upon every parcell,

that you may dispose of them

afterwards

according

to your pleasure.

</P>

<P>

This I wish you to do in every Place, that

afterwards

when it shall please God to bring you

safely

to bring them

home, Tho' you should not be able to raise

them

in this climat,

yet you might have enough to know

them

by. Do not forget the Booksellers

here, who may possibly

have some of the Books

you look for. I must desire one Favour of you in this Place,

that You would be pleased

to enquire

after the <EM>Psilothrum</EM> or Depilatory Ointment, which

they use in <EM>Rome</EM> in the

Baths,

and which I was

so Unluckie

as not to mind when I was

upon the place. It you can find the Receipt, cause make some

small quantity of it to try

if it be Right, which you will easily

know by this, that being

rubbed

upon any hairy place, within a little space, when you come to

wipe it off, it takes

the hair without burning

or scalding

the Skin; but if it either burn or discolour the Skin, it

is

not right. The

63

place is

afterward to be washed

with a little warm Water. I must

likeways

intreat you to be at ths pains

to cause dry me a Viper or two, it will be

enough to dry their

Skins

with the heads

at them,

stopped

with Flax, or Cotton: but in no way must you

medle

with them

your self, because there is

Danger, but imploy

one of those fellows

that brings

them

to the Apothecaries,

who for a small matter will do it. Some day or other, you may

be at the paines

to see <EM>Frontiniague</EM> famous for that generous Moschat

Wine, called

by the name of the place, you may Collation there, and

Harbarize as you go and come.

</P>

<P>

When you are satisfied

here, it will be fit to set forward to <EM>Thoulouse.</EM> You

will see by the way, <EM>1st. Pesenas</EM> a

Pretie

Town, where it may fall you to Dyne,

<EM>Au tapis vert,</EM> hard by the Town, there

is

a very fine House, with excellent

Gardens,

belonging

to the <EM>Prince</EM> of <EM>Condie,</EM> it

is

worthy of your seeing.

<EM>2ly. Beziers; 3ly. Narbone,</EM>

which is

a very strong and well fortified

Town, near upon

64

the borders

of <EM>Catalonia.</EM> It hath

communion with the Sea, by

means

of a little River, that runs

through the Town. Be pleased

to see the great Church, and in it a

Peece

of excellent Painting,

representing

the History of our Saviour's raising

<EM>Lazarus</EM> from the Dead. Take

likeways

notice of the Organes,

the great Pipes

whereof <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>stand

by the Pillar sides,

at a great distance from the Organ

roome,

and have the Wind conveyed

to them

by a secret conduct; which tho' it be no difficult thing, yet

it is

not common.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Narbonne,</EM> you have six or seven

Leagues

to <EM>Carcassone;</EM> They are two, <EM>Ville</EM> and

<EM>City;</EM> the City stands

upon a hight about half a Leagues

distance from the Town: It is

twice encompassed

with Walls

and Ditches,

and is

very strong, as being

upon the <EM>Frontiers</EM>

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Catalonia.</EM> The Town stands

below in the Plaine,

and is

much larger,

better <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>uilt,

and better inhabited,

&amp; Walled

about with a more modern kind of

Fortification. The Town

is

commended

for

65

Cloath-works,

&amp; making

of Combs:

The Tradesmen

use to bring them

to the Innes

as soon as they understand any Stranger

to be arrived;

but your best will be to go to their

Houses,

and see all, &amp; try severals,

for so you may best please your self, and make the best

bargain too. There is

of all Prices,

insomuch that I have seen

ten Pistoles refused

for one single Comb, of Box-Wood. But

indeed it

was

of a vast bigness and most curiously

carved.

You may have very good ones

for three, foure,

or five Livres

a peece,

as also some for 30, 40, &amp; 50

Solds.

To be short, there is

of all kindes

and prices,

and I shall earnestly

intreat you, to bestow foure

or five Crowns,

upon some of the midle

sort, that is

next to the best, and some again of the next degree to

them

for me, (because of the

carving)

to add to my <EM>Tradescants.</EM> They must be

packt

up in a little wooden Box, which the

Tradesmen

know very well how to do.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Carcassone</EM> to <EM>Thoulouse,</EM> you have

twelve Leagues,

viz. Foure

to

66

<EM>Vilpeinte,</EM> two to <EM>Castelna<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>&#0183;

d' Arri,</EM> two to <EM>Vignonnet</EM> and four to

<EM>Thoulouse.</EM> The Second Town (in the opinion of some)

in <EM>France,</EM> how justly,

I leave to your self, when you shall see it. The Town indeed

is

very big, and well built,

all of Brick; But not very populous, I think for the want of

Trade, in regard it lyes

farr

from the Sea. Amongst other

things,

take notice of the following

particulars

<EM>1st.</EM> The Town House, in the Court whereof they Show

you the place where the Scaffold

was

erected,

that <EM>Monsr: de Momorancy</EM>

was

beheaded

upon, and some of his Blood yet

Sticking

upon the Wall. <EM>2ly.</EM> The

Parliament House, into

which (if it be sitting)

you must neither carry Sword, nor

Spurs,

unless you make account to pay a Forfaulter. <EM>3ly.</EM> The

Bridge over the River <EM>Garonne,</EM> which

is

very stately, built

of Brick, somewhat after the Model of the new Bridge of

<EM>Paris,</EM> having

a Foot walk raised

on every side, so that these that pass on foot, are not

troubled

with Coaches,

Cairts, &amp;c.

67

that pass in the midle.

<EM>4ly.</EM> In the convent

(as I take it) of the <EM>Cordeliers,</EM>

there is

a Peece

of ground under a Chapel,

belonging

to the Church, wherein all Dead

Bodies,

that lye

eight and fourtie

hours,

are so dryed,

but without the consumption of

any substantiall

part, that they become incorruptible for ever thereafter. They

will show you in a Vault, hard by the

Chapell,

some hundred of Bodies,

standing

about the

Walls

intire

and dryed,

as I have said,

amongst the rest they show one bodie

of a Woman, called

<EM>la Belle Paule,</EM>

Mistrels as it is

said

to some King, whose name I do not remember: But it

is

some hundreds

of Years

since she died,

and yet me thinks

there is

a beautifull

Proportion observable in her Face. The rest of the

curiosities

consist in

Churches,

religious-houses,

&amp;c. which I leave to your self.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Thoulouse</EM> to <EM>Montauban</EM> you about

halfe

a Dayes

Journey, it is

famous for the Protestant University; It

stands

somewhat high and declines

68

a little toward the Bridge, that

stands

over the <EM>Tarne,</EM>

which not far below the Town, casts

it self into the <EM>Garonne.</EM> It

hath

many fine Fountains;

but especially

one, which they call the <EM>Gri<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>one.</EM>

It hath

good trafique,

because of the situation betwixt <EM>Thoulouse</EM> and

<EM>Limoge</EM> and

<EM>Paris,</EM> as also because of the

Commoditie

of the River, to <EM>Bourdeaux:</EM>

the Town and Bridge are all built

of Brick. It was

formerly

very strong, but because of its

Rebellion is

now Dismantled

of all Fortification.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Moutauban</EM> to <EM>Bourdeaux,</EM>

you may go by Water in a very short Time, because the River

is

rapid; the Countrey

about is

very fertile and Pleasant. You will see by the Way,

<EM>Agen,</EM>

an

ancient City, where <EM>Iulius

Scaliger</EM> was

Born: within 4 or 5 Leagues

of <EM>Bourdeaux</EM>

stands

<EM>Cadiliac,</EM> a most delicate

<EM>Castle,</EM> belonging

some time to the <EM>Duke d' Espernon;</EM> You must not faill

to see them.</P>

<P>

At <EM>Bourdeaux,</EM>

I did

lodge <EM>au Chapeau

rouge;</EM> but I have been

told

since,

69

that there are more commodious <EM>Inns</EM>

in Town, which You may easily

be addressed

to. You will meet with severall

of our Countreymen

in this Place; But particularly,

Sir <EM>David Inglish,</EM> and <EM>Harie Iossy&#0183;</EM>

are of my acquaintance.

And therefore, I must desire you to see

them,

&amp; permit this, to present them

my service. I must likeways

intreat you, to be at the

pains,

to enquire

for a Doctor of Physick,

of the Religion that

lives

here, whose name I have forgotten;

but you will know him

by this, that he hath

written

in French Something against Doctor

<EM>Willes

de Febribus:</EM> which I remember Sir <EM>David Inglish,</EM>

did

once send me to <EM>Paris.</EM> And therefore, he may

Probably

know the Man: The Reason I desire You to speak with

him,

is,

That you may learn from himself, what he

hath

Published,

upon this or any other Subject; and whatsoever they be, I must

intreat You earnestly,

to buy them

for me; for I have a very great

Honour for the

Mans

Parts,

tho' I know

70

not his Person; and I had

the evil Luck to lend that Book, which Sir <EM>David

Inglish</EM> sent

me, to a Doctor at <EM>Paris,</EM> that

did

never render it me again.

Remember to see in the Town, <EM>1st. Piliers tutilarrs,</EM>

which are the Ruins

of an

Ancient <EM>Roman Temple. 2ly.</EM> The

Ruins

of an

Amphitheatre, without the Town, of <EM>Roman</EM> Antiquity

likeways.

<EM>3ly.</EM> The <EM>Cheasteau

Trompette,</EM>

in which there is

a Garison

keept

by the King. It was

pulled

down by the Citizens,

in the Time of their last Rebellion; but since

re-built

much better and stronger.

<EM>4ly.</EM> The <EM>Port,</EM> which if you happen to see in

the Time of Vintage, will be well

furnished

with Ships

from all Places,

and it may be from <EM>Scotland. 5ly.</EM> That

peece

of Ground without the Town, which they call <EM>Grave;</EM>

which brings

forth the best Wine about <EM>Bourdeaux,</EM>

and which for the most part is

sold

within the Town, at as great a Rate as ordinary

<EM>French</EM> Wine gives

with us: And therefore being

there is

no great quantity of it, and that it

71

would not turn the Merchants

to Accompt to send it here,

you may easily

guesse

how much <EM>Graves</EM>

Wine We Drink in <EM>Scotland,</EM>

altho'

Our People are pleased

to Flatter themselves, that all their

Clarets

are such; The rest I leave to others, to inform you of. I must

only tell you, You will meet with as good

Fruits

here as in any place of <EM>France, Des Treffices</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Tuberae Terrae,</EM> they are found under the Ground by

the Hogs,

who use to smell them

before they come at them,

and by the noise and gests

they make, give notice to their

keeper, who presently

puts

them

by, and Digs

the <EM>Trefice</EM> for himself:

They are in great esteeme,

&amp; being

Boyled

and pared,

use to be eaten

by themselves with Pepper and Oyle,

or else cut down with other things

<EM>en Ragoust.</EM> There

are likeways

here a kind of small Birds

but exceeding

fatt,

which they call <EM>Ortolans,</EM>

which are much prized

for great Delicacies.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Bourdeaux</EM>

you go to <EM>Rochelle.</EM> In the way you pass by these

Places;

first

72

<EM>Blay, Ville et City,</EM> The City

stands

on a Hight and Commands

the River. It was

at this Place that of old the <EM>English</EM>

Ships

were

Obliged

to liver their Canon, which were

permitted

the <EM>Scots</EM>

(as a Priviledge)

to keep a Board; as they passed

to <EM>Bourdeaux.

2ly. Xaintes</EM> or <EM>Saintes,</EM>

the Capital Town of <EM>Xaintonge;</EM> It

stands

upon the River <EM>Charante;</EM> here are some

Rests

of <EM>Roman</EM> antiquity, as of

an

Amphitheatre, &amp;c. But especially

of an

Arch, upon the Bridge over the <EM>Charante,</EM>

on which you will read this inscription.

<EM>Caesari nep: D. Iulij

Pontifici A.</EM> There is

also an

inscription, on the reverse which I remember not. You will see

likeways

here a Steeple, the Stairs

whereof that lead to the Top are on the outside. <EM>3ly.

Brouage;</EM> about half a Days

Journey from <EM>Saintes,</EM>

a little, but one of the most regularly

fortified

Towns

in all <EM>France,</EM> in which there

is

a continuall

Garison

keept,

as a Guard for the Salt, of which vast

quantities

is

made

here, by the heat of the Sun every Year in this manner. They

let

73

in the Sea water by a <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

cut purposely

in the ground into severall

ponds,

cut out likeways

of purpose of a certain

deepness: they fill them

in the Summer time, and then

stop the entries

that no more water come in; when the Sun

hath

co<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cted it

enough, they gather it together

i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eaps, and

carry it to

places

appointed

for it. The Town stands

upon a little River which i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

navigable, because the Sea flowes

a good way above it, the Salt marshes

about the Town, are little less than four

Leagues

about, &amp; render the Town by so much the more strong. You

must be sure to arrive there at a good Hour in the day, for at

Sun-setting

the Gates

are shut, and none whatsoever can enter. You must Salute the

Governour,

or in his absence, the Chief<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>Off<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cer,

and desire Libertie

of him

to view the Town, which he will

readily

grant you, and appoint a Souldier

to wait upon you; from the Walls,

you will discover the Marshes

about the Town, and then he will bring you to the

<EM>Arsenal,</EM> and there you will see their Magazine of

Ai<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s, and

then having

given

74

something to the Souldier

to drink, you may thank the Governour

&amp; take leave of him.

This is

all that is

to be seen

in this place except you make account

to see the Isle of <EM>Ol<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rone,</EM>

which lyes

without the mouth of the little

River, about a League or two in

the Sea.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Brouage</EM> you have seven

Leagues

to the <EM>Rochell,</EM> upon the Way to which you will have

occasion to see a great many Sea-Plants,

such as <EM>Kali, Kali Spinosum, Salicornia, Cakeile

S<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rapionis,

Papaver corniculatum luteum, Eringium Marinum, Crithmum;</EM>

with many others.</P>

<P>The <EM>Rochel</EM> is

much more famous for what it was,

than for what it is,

It was

the strongest

hold, the Protestants

had

in <EM>France,</EM> but after the

taking

of the Town by <EM>Lewes</EM>

the <EM>13th.</EM> the Walls

thereof were

quite demolished,

so that scarcely

the vestiges thereof remaine:

the Harbour is

considerable, for it enters

within the midle

of the Town. At <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>resent

it hath

a considerable trafique

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> Salt, white

Wines,

&amp;c.</P>

<P>

75

You must be at the pains

to see the Isle of <EM>Re,</EM> about a League from the Town,

but not above a quarter of a League from the Land. As you go

from the <EM>Rochel,</EM> to the place where you are to take

Boat to cross over, they will show you the

Ruins

of that Digue, which <EM>Cardinal

Richlieu</EM>

caused

make by sinking

of Barks,

loaden

with Stones,

to hinder all relief for the Town by Sea, and it

was

observeable,

that the very day after the Town

surrendered,

the Digue was

broke

down by Storm, which if it had

done

but three days

sooner,

it may be justly

questioned

whether the Town had

ever been

taken,

especially

seeing

the <EM>English</EM> Fleet was

ryding

before the Isle of <EM>Re.</EM>

</P>

<P>

In the Isle of <EM>Re,</EM> there

is

a <EM>Citadale,</EM> near to which you will be put a Shore

upon the Island, but it is

not usual to permit

Strangers

to enter into it. At the east end of the Island, there

is

a little Town called

St, <EM>Martines,</EM>

in which there are many <EM>Dutch</EM>

Families,

because of the great trafique

the Dutch hath

with

76

this place, for Salt and white-Wines.

The Island is

generally

of a Sandie

Soil, and only made

fertile by the Sea-<EM>Ware</EM> which they throw upon it, and

which in my Opinion is

the cause, that all the Wines

both of the Island and about the <EM>Rochel</EM>

tast

brackish, especially

when they begin to be old. You will find

amongst other

Plants

upon the Island aboundance

of <EM>Pancratium,</EM> except you come in the latter Season

of the Year, when probably

it may not be found. You may returne

at Night to the <EM>Rochelle,</EM> from whence you have a

Messenger to <EM>Paris,</EM> upon the way to which there

is

nothing that I need to trouble you with, except

<EM>Poictiers,</EM>

that I have not seen

my self, and therefore can say nothing of; From

<EM>Poicteirs</EM> your way is

to <EM>Amboise</EM> midway betwixt <EM>Tours</EM> and

<EM>Blois</EM> of which before.

</P>

<P>

I must advertise you here, that if you please you may make

this <EM>Tour</EM> an

other way <EM>viz.</EM> To

<EM>Nantes,</EM>

as in the former advice

concerning

the <EM>Petit Tour,</EM> as far as

<EM>Nantes,</EM>

from thence to the <EM>Rochell,

77

Bourdeaux,

Toulouse, Narbonne, Montpellier,

Avignion,</EM>

and so all the rest throw <EM>Provence;</EM> and then back to

<EM>Avignion,</EM>

from whence to <EM>Lions,</EM>

and so to <EM>Paris</EM> with the messenger, or coach, which

you like best. For your better understanding

in the Country, it will be fit to carry a Map, or

<EM>Carte</EM>

of <EM>France</EM> along with you, to look upon the situation

of every place as you pass, for

doing

of which a litle

time will suffice once a day. Let it be

illuminat

for the more easie

discerning

the different counties

and their bounding.

You will do well likewise to carrie

a Book with you in 80. called

<EM>Le Voyage de France,</EM> which will inform you of many

particulars,

that either were

not at all seen

and observed

by me, or else have escaped

my Memory; and indeed it is

no great wonder if they have, having

been

so lazie

as not to make any <EM>Memoire</EM>

of them

whilst they were

yet recent in my mind. And this

is

one Reason of the tumultuarinesse and disorder of this Letter,

but I am

well pleased

to think, that by the amendements

78

you will make both in seeing,

observing,

and writing

down all things

more particularly,

we shall have occasion

afterward to put the Voyage in a better Dress; I must

likeways

beg your Pardon for not having

writen

to you sooner,

having

been

several times

called

out of Town since I began

to write this Letter: If you find it tedious in

reading,

blame your self for being

the cause thereof, and be the more patient, in

regard I shall not have

occasion to be any more so tedious, unless you go for

<EM>Italy,</EM> and give me a timeous advice of your

Intentions.

</P>

<P>

I shall conclude all with my best

wishes

for your health &amp; happy Return, &amp; most

earnestly

intreat you not to grudge us with the

effects

of a Spare hour, that seeing

at this distance, we cannot be so happy, as to enjoy you

personally;

we may at least by this next best way

entertain a Correspondence,

which I assure you will be a great Kindness to your

Friends

here, but to none so much as

79

to my self who cannot be indifferent in any thing, that

concernes

you, And therefore cannot but be

sollicitous,

to hear often from you, as the only thing, that can supply the

want of your person, So much desired

and longed

for, by &amp;c.

</P>

<BR><BR>

81

<BR><H4>LETTER III.</H4>

<BR><H4>CONTAINING

Advice for Travelling

into ITALY.</H4>

<BR><H4>Written

to a Friend</H4>

<P>

IT is

much better to go into <EM>Italy</EM> in the latter end of

<EM>Autumn,</EM> than in the <EM>Spring;</EM> Because the

Change of the Air is

not so much from one Extreme

to another in that Season, as in the other; for the Mildness

of the Winter in <EM>Italy</EM>

(especialy

upon the <EM>South</EM> side of the <EM>Appennine</EM>) doth

not so much recede from the

Temperatness of <EM>Autumn</EM> in <EM>France,</EM> as the

Heat of <EM>Summer</EM> in <EM>Italy</EM>

exceeds

the Mildness of the <EM>Spring</EM> in

82

<EM>France.</EM> It is

certain, that if a Man intend to stay but a half a Year, it

is

better to begin the Journey in <EM>Autumn,</EM> and

finish it in the

<EM>Spring,</EM> than to begin in the <EM>Spring,</EM> and

finish it in <EM>Autumn,</EM> and so be obnoxious to the

excessive

Heats

of Summer. If one intend to stay one or more

Years,

it is

undoubtedly

best to begin the Journey in <EM>Autumn,</EM> because the

Winter, being

much more clement than usually

it falls

out with us, will be easily

supported,

&amp; all the Heat that happens

in the following

Summer, in regard it comes

by degrees,

will not so readily

affect the Body, that

hath

been

already inured

to the Air of the climate, for some Time before.

</P>

<P>

The most convenient way of making

the Toure

of <EM>Italy,</EM> (in my opinion)

is

to go through <EM>Provence</EM> to <EM>Cane,</EM> a small

inconsiderable Town upon the <EM>Frontiers</EM>

of <EM>Provence,</EM> and there to hire a Felluck to

<EM>Genoua,</EM>

and, if you cannot get one at

<EM>Cane,</EM> to go to <EM>Nize,</EM> which

is

but six or seven Leagues

further,

83

where you will be sure to find one; a Felluck

is

ordinarily

of four Oares,

and hath

this advantage that you go in it <EM>Ter' a Terre,</EM> that

is

so near the land, that in the case of any danger by Storm or

otherwise, you may easily

run on Shoar

and escape it, and besides,

land as often as there is

any Town or other thing worthy the

seeing,

and likewayes

ly a Shoar

every Night, at some good Town or other. A Felluck will serve

to carrie

half a dozen of persons

with ease, besides

the Rowers:

The Price is

not fixt

but more or less as the Fellucks

happen to be more or

fewer

in number. Ours

cost us about 11 or 12 Crowns,

in regard there were

but few at <EM>Cane,</EM> but you may chance to get one for 8,

or 9. especially

if ye be few in number and not much Baggage; You may provide

every morning to take along with you, Wine and what

Victuals

you please, the rather because sometimes

it will happen that you will have no conveniency of any Town

about Mid-day, and therefore must Dine aboard Your Fellucke.

</P>

<P>

84

The first thing You will meet with, worthy the

taking

notice of, is

<EM>Nize,</EM> a City belonging

to the Duke of <EM>Savoy,</EM> it

lyes

near to the Sea syde,

at the very foot of the <EM>Alps,</EM> and

hath

a very strong Cittadale belonging

thereto: some two miles

from thence stands

<EM>Villa Franca,</EM> one of the best

Ports

in <EM>Italy,</EM> it belongs

likewise to the Duke of <EM>Savoy,</EM> and

is

guarded

with two Castles,

one whereof stands

on the top of a Rock, upon which

growes

in great aboundance

the <EM>Ficus Indica.</EM> Some three

miles

farther upon the Coast stands

the Town and Palace of <EM>Monaco,</EM> or <EM>Morgues,</EM>

It is

a Principalitie

by it self, and hath

very litle

land belonging

to it: The place is

strong standing

upon a Rock, which is

not accessible, save at

the side where the Palace stands,

and where it joynes

with the land, all the rest being

compassed

with the Sea. In the Palace they use to show 1. The

Princes

Wairdrob, in which there is

good store of Silver plate, and other Rich furniture, 2.

Severall

rooms

as Halls,

Galleries,

Chambers

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> well

85

furnished

with Hangings,

Cabinets,

Pictures,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> 3. A little Garden upon the top of the Rock,

behind the Palace, made

up of earth brought

thither on purpose. At the foot of the Hill near the Town

there are store of <EM>Carobe</EM>

Trees,

or <EM>Siliqua Dulcis, Bauhini</EM> in

<EM>Pinace.</EM>

</P>

<P>

I must not omit to tell You that you must be sure at your

first leaving

of <EM>France</EM> in the last Town that You happen to be in,

whither it be <EM>Cane</EM> or any other, to get a Certificate

of your health and freedome

from the Plague, as also of the freedom of that Town. There

are persons

appointed

in every place for giving

of such Bills,

or <EM>Patents

de Sainte,</EM>

as they call them.

Their Subscriptions

are known

to the next Townes

about, where you are to go, so that it

is

not easie

to counterfit,

and besides

it were

very dangerous to doe so;

They are very scrupulous in

this matter upon all the Coast of <EM>Liguria,</EM> for fear

of contagion; So that when you arrive at any Town, before you

go a shore, you must send one of your

Boat-men,

with your Certification to be

86

shown

to such as are appointed

for those matters

in that Place, who immediately

upon the Sight of the Bill permit you, <EM>la Practica,</EM>

that is

Libertie

to stay in the Town as long as you please, and do what you

will. When you part from that, You must take a new

Certificat

to the next Place, and so of the Rest

untill

you come at <EM>Ligorn,</EM> where this niceness will end.

</P>

<P>

You must carrie

with you no Secret Weapon, as Dagger, Pocket

Pistols,

or the like: And this is

general all over <EM>Italy,</EM>

except only in the Kingdom of <EM>Naples,</EM> and

States

of <EM>Venice</EM> and <EM>Milan,</EM> where it

is

permitted

to wear Daggers.

At most Towns

in <EM>Italy,</EM> You will be oblidged

to leave yonr Hulster-Pistols,

and sometimes

your Sword with the Guard at the Gate you enter in by: And

then they will ask you, by what Gate you are to go out, and

accordingly

Your Arms

will wait for you, which they will know to be

yours,

by the delivery of a Nick-stick

given

You as you enter, and which for that purpose,

87

You must carefully

keep. In most Places,

Strangers

are permitted

to weare

their Swords.

Your Cloak-Bag likeways

will be visited

at every Town, to to see that there be no Customable

Goods

in it, and if there be any Books,

you must give up a List of them

to the Visitor, or Inquisitor appointed

for that end, and he will Signe

it with Order to let

them

pass, Providing,

there be no Prohibited

Book amongst them,

For if there were

any such, it would be Dangerons;

yet there are wayes

enough to convey Books,

or any other thing of whatsoever Nature, or Quality, from any

Sea-port, without any Danger,

which you will easily

understand, after your

being

a while in the Country.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Monaco</EM> you will

easily

reach <EM>Oneglia,</EM> which is

at about twelve Miles

distance, and about 5 Miles

further <EM>Albenga,</EM> from thence you have seven

Miles

to <EM>N<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>li,</EM>

&amp; ten more to <EM>Savona,</EM> from whence there

rests

five Miles

to <EM>Genoua,</EM></P>

<P>

All the Coast, of <EM>Liguria,</EM> from <EM>Nize</EM> to

88

<EM>Genoua,</EM>

&amp; some days

Journey beyond <EM>Genoua</EM>

towards

<EM>Ligorn,</EM> is

nothing but rude <EM>Alps,</EM> for the most part infertile

and unhabitable, except towards

the Bottom near the Sea, where there are little

Smal

Valleys

here and there, both delicious

and Fruitfull.

For the rest it is

wonderfull

to see with what industry &amp; trouble, they have

been

able to place little smal

Villages,

as it were

in the Clefts

of the Hills,

and Plant Olive Trees,

where one would think nothing but

crows

could venture to Big. All this Tract

is

extreamly

hot, especially

in Summer, being

directly

opposit

to the South, and altogether guarded

from the North, So that the reflection of the Sun

beames,

makes

a Heat almost insupportable.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Genoua

la Superba,</EM> so called

from the sumptuousness of its

Buildings,

and so they use to give other epithets

to other Towns,

as <EM>Roma la Saneta,

Fiorenza la Bella, Bolognia la Grassa, Padua la Dotta, Venetia

la Rieta,</EM> &amp;c. It is

said

that <EM>Genoua</EM>

has

<EM>Montagnie senza legno, Mare senze pesce, Donne senza

Vergonia,

89

&amp; Gente senza sede.</EM>

It is

a Republick

&amp; the Government administred

by a Senate. It is

a City of great Trade and very Rich, and it

is

said

they account usury no great Sin: It

being

their Maxim, that <EM>Cento per Cento e Niente, Cento

Cinquanto per Cinto e quelcha cosa, du Cento per Cento e

quadagnio Hone<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>io.</EM>

You may take notice in the Place; First, of the

Situation of the Town, and

so you may Herbarize

towards

the West-side. <EM>2ly.</EM> The Senate House, <EM>3ly.</EM>

The Churches,

and particularly

that of St. <EM>Lorenzo,</EM> which

is

the Cathedrall,

a Stately Fabrick

Crusted

with Marble. <EM>4ly.</EM> That famous Street,

called

<EM>la Strada Nova,</EM> which is

composed

of so many Palaces,

most of them

of Marble: you must by all means

endeavour to see the most considerable

Palaces.

Within you will find them

most delicatly

Adorned

with all sorts

of fine Things,

as Statues,

Paintings,

&amp;c. You must also see their

Gardens,

where besides

severall

sorts

of Flowers,

Shrubs,

and Trees,

you will likeways

90

find delicat Fountains,

Fish-ponds,

and Grotto's; as particularly

in the Palace of the <EM>Principe d'Oria;</EM> I would

likeways

have you see the Palace of <EM>Signior Baldi,</EM> and some

other Houses

of Pleasure especially

towards

the Sea-port, where they stand at the foot of the Hill over

looking

one another as they mount in degrees

in form of a Theatre, and all of

them

having

a full view of the Sea-port, which

is

very spacious and very deep; but in my Opinion, not so very

well guarded

from stormes.

That which I find most considerable in it

is,

the <EM>Mole,</EM> which secures

the entrie

thereof, it being

the best and strongest

and in the deepest

Water I ever saw.

At the east end of the port there

is

a litle

Promontory called

<EM>Capo de Fara,</EM> upon which

stands

a High Turret, which they call <EM>la Lantern&acirc;,</EM>

from the Top whereof they use to

discover all

Vessells

at Sea at a considerable distance. <EM>5ly.</EM> Forget not to

visit the Book-Sellers,

but in Regard this is

a generall

Remark not to be omited,

in every Town where there any, I shall

91

say no more of it here, but shall put You in mind of it now

and then.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Genoua</EM>

You must again provide Your self of a Felluck to

<EM>Ligorn,</EM> which you will find

readier

and at an

easier

rate, because of the more frequent

Traffick

and intercourse, than from <EM>Cane</EM> or <EM>Nize,</EM> you

will pass by <EM>Porta Fino, Leresi,

Viaregia,</EM> &amp;c. and you

wil

not find many things

considerable more than I have already

noted

on the Coasts

of <EM>Liguria</EM> betwixt <EM>Genoua</EM>

and <EM>Nize,</EM> except that when ye pass <EM>Leresi</EM> a

litle,

you begin to discover a large plain, part of which

belongs

to the state of <EM>Genoua,</EM>

and therein are the Quarries

that furnish all <EM>Italy</EM> with the best Marble, and the

rest is

the Principality of

<EM>Massa;</EM> For the better seeing

of which if you please you may go from

<EM>Genoua</EM>

by Horse to <EM>Ligorne.</EM></P>

<P><EM>Tuscany</EM> begins

about <EM>Viaregia,</EM> the greatest

part whereof is

under the Dominion of the Great

Duke of <EM>Tuscany.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>Ligorn</EM> is

no antient,

but yet a very Handsom

and well built

City, by <EM>Ferdinand</EM>

the first, Great DUKE of <EM>Tuscany,</EM> of

whom

you will see a most

92

stately Statue or rather Colosse, with

slaves

Chain'd at his Feet,

on each side kneeling;

a litle

without the Gate as you go to the Sea-Port. The Town

is

regularly

fortified,

they say, by the contrivance

of the Duke of <EM>Northumberland,</EM> who

was

banished

out of <EM>England</EM> in the Reign of Queen

<EM>Eli<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>abeth,</EM>

and well receaved

and much esteemed

by the then Duke of <EM>Tuscany,</EM> for his excellent

parts

and Qualifications.

The Duke for incouragment

of Trade hath

granted

great Immunities

to Merchants

of all Nations

whatsomever,

which is

the great cause that the Town flourishes

so much in Trade, and is

so well Peopled:

Severall

Nations

have established

great Factories

here, but especialy

the <EM>English</EM> and <EM>Hollanders</EM>

who have made

this place, as it were

the staple of all their commerce into the <EM>Levant.</EM> The

<EM>Jews</EM>

also have a very great freedome

here and are not distinguished

by any particular Mark, as in other

places,

from other Merchants,

but live Honourably

in a particular Street of the Town,

built

by themselves,

93

yet not sequestrated

from the rest of the Town by any Wall or Gate, as they use to

be in all other places,

where I have seen

them.

The <EM>English</EM> Merchants

live very splendidly,

and are very hospitable and courteous,

especially,

to their Countrymen,

that Travell

that way, under which name they comprehend all that are

Subject to our King: The Jews

<EM>Synagogue</EM> here is

the best in <EM>Italy;</EM> and therefore

worthy your

seeing.

They observe our <EM>Saturnday,</EM>

so that if You please to stay, You may see their form of

Worship. You must take particular notice of the

<EM>Sea-Port,</EM> which is

undoubtedly

the most secure and finest

in all <EM>Italy,</EM> in which You will see the great

Dukes

<EM>Gallies,</EM>

which he kee<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s

for a Guard, to his Countrey

against the <EM>Turks</EM>

men

of War. It is

worth the while to see a <EM>Gallie</EM>

put out to Sea, or, as she comes

in, for so one may see the Discipline of the

Slaves

to whom

the <EM>Bosson</EM> delivers

the word of Command by the noise of a Whisle, the

diversitie

whereof they are as well

94

acquainted

with, as Horse-men

with a Trumper, or foot with a Drum. If You be diligent You

may meet with severall

curiosities,

some naturall,

some of Art, especially

from the <EM>Levant,</EM> and all at reasonable

Rates:

and for the more commodious doing

of this, it will be fitting

to make acquaintance with severall

Merchants,

especially

<EM>English,</EM> who will either inform You themselves, where

such things

are to be found, or else address

You to such Persons

in the Town, as may best hap to do it. It

is

likeways

necessary for You to have such acquaintance,

and amongst them

some one confident for returning

You Money from <EM>England,</EM>

or at least for returning

You, what Money You have not present Use for, to

<EM>Florence,</EM> as also for keping

correspondence with; that by this

means,

You may send any thing you please to Your confident at

<EM>London.</EM> And because this advice may be

usefull

in many other

Places;

I shall be more particular

in it here for all. I suppose then You

were

to send any little Ball for Trunk from <EM>Ligorne</EM> to

<EM>London;</EM> Your

95

way would be first to pass it at the

Custom house, where, I think

Books,

and curiosities

pay nothing but yet You must have

an

Order for Shipping

of them,

then You must agree with some <EM>English</EM> Master of a

Ship, bound

for <EM>London,</EM> for the portage, and

accordingly

draw a Bill of Loading---which is

of a common Stile bearing,

<EM>that such a Ball or Coffer marked,---(and

sometimes

it says,

marked

as on the Margen, and then the Mark whether it be

Letters

or Figures

or both, which is

put upon the Goods,

is

likeways

placed

upon the Margen of the</EM> Bill)

<EM>is

imbarked

This</EM>---Day <EM>of---and</EM> Year <EM>of God---aboard the

good Ship called---now in the Port of</EM> Ligorn, <EM>and

bound

for</EM> London, <EM>whereof</EM> Mr:---<EM>under God

is</EM>

Master, <EM>the which Ball is

consignable at</EM> London

<EM>to</EM> Mr---<EM>Merchant</EM> &amp;c. <EM>or bis Order,

for which he is

to Pay---</EM> English <EM>Mony,

he receiving

the said

Ball well conditioned,

without Skaith or Damage,</EM>

There must be three Copies

of this <EM>Bill,</EM> one You must subscribe, and give to the

Master of the Ship, for <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

96

Warrand

to carrie

his Fraught. The other two he must subscribe and give to You,

whereof You must send one by Post with a particular Letter of

advice, to Your correspondent at <EM>London,</EM> to

warrand

him

to call for the Goods,

at the Master of the Ship; and the other You must keep by You

for Your own security, in

case there should be any miscarriage,

either through the Skipper, or Merchants

fault, and then Your Goods

may be imbarked.

If You were

to send from <EM>Florence,</EM> then you must in the like

manner pass your

Goods

at the Customhouse; if

there be any Books

among them,

You must have a particular Licence

as I Noted

formerly,

and then cause unball them

at the Custom-house, and set your Mark upon

them,

and find out some Boat going

for <EM>Ligorn,</EM> (which you will be sure to do,) and take

a Note under the Boat-Masters

hand of the recept of such Goods

so marked,

consignable to such a Ma<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n

Merchant in <EM>Ligorn,</EM> for which he

is

to pay so much Fraught, he receiving

the Goods

90

well conditioned.

This Note you must send by the Post to your Merchant in

<EM>Ligorn,</EM> together with Your acquittance at the Custom

house of <EM>Florence,</EM> which will serve to acquit

them

at <EM>Ligorn;</EM> together

also with particular advice to dispatch

them

by the first good occasion for <EM>London,</EM> and to take

Bills

of Loading

for them,

whereof you must desire one Copie

to be sent

to your self, which you must keep for your Security, as

said

is;

From <EM>Rome</EM> you must use the same conveyance to

<EM>Ligorn:</EM> But from <EM>Venice</EM> you must address

immediately

for <EM>London,</EM> and in

the same manner as from <EM>Ligorn.</EM> If you be to send any

thing over Land, where you go not

along your self, you must make two

Letters

of Voiture (having

first agreed

for the carriage at the Rate

of so much <EM>per Cent.</EM>) whereof you must give one to

the carrier, which

is

a kind of advice to the Person you address your

Goods

to, which is

in this form: suppose from <EM>Turine</EM> to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

you write thus,

</P>

<BR>

<BR>

Sir

<P>

I have sent

a Bundel marked---by---

91

Indweller in this Town, and Carrier to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

addressed

to You, which I desire you would be

pleased

to receive, and being

in good condition, Pay for it at the Rate of---<EM>per

Cent.</EM> and I shall hold you account thereof, or

otherways place it to the account of---at <EM>Paris,</EM> to

whom

I desire you to address the

Bundell

and send it with the first good Occasion, and I shall be

Accountable to him.

The carrier will part from hence, such a Day

being

the---<EM>Day</EM> of---and will arrive at

<EM>Lions</EM>

the---<EM>Day</EM> thereafter, the

Bundell

contains

no Merchant Goods,

being

only Books,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> for my own Privat

use and therefore not Customable I rest.

</P>

<BR>

SIR,

<EM>Yours</EM>

&amp;c.

<BR>

<BR><BR>

<P>THe other Letter of Voiture is

an

Obligation under the carriers

hand to You, which you must send by the Post to your

correspondent at <EM>Lions.</EM>

The Form of it ought to be as follows.</P>

<BR>

<P>

92

<EM>I</EM> Vnder

Subscribed

Carrier of <EM>Turin,</EM>

acknowledge to have received

from---the---<EM>Day</EM> of---at <EM>Turin</EM> a

Bundell

Marked---Weighing---addressed to---Merchant of

<EM>Lions</EM>

to whom

I promise to deliver it in good condition at

<EM>Lions,</EM>

(with the help of God) or to his Order, he

paying

me at the Rate of---<EM>per Cent.</EM> therefore. In witness

whereof I have subscribed

their presents

with my hand at <EM>Turin</EM> the---<EM>Day</EM>

of---Anno---

</P>

<BR><BR>

<P>

I Have been

the more particular in these things,

because altho'

they may seem to be triffles,

to those that are conversant

in such matters,

yet a small mistake, may be the occasion of a great

Miscarriage. I shall now

return to put You in mind of some other

particulars,

and 1. That in this Place, Oisters

are a very great Delicat, there

being

but one person that has

Priviledge

to sell them,

for which he payes

a considerable Sum

93

to the great Duke; I know not well from whence they are

brought,

but I am

sure it is

from a considerable Distance: They are

keept

in the Town-Ditch, on the East side of the Town, which

is

full of salt water, because it hath

communion with the Sea; the keeper

hath

a little House hard by, and according

to the number Bargained

for, takes

them

alive &amp; very fat out of the Ditch, &amp;

sells

them

at the Rate of a Pistole

the Hundred. They are many times

put into the Ditch little, and keept

untill

they be big enough, they taste very well, and are by far the

best in <EM>Italy.</EM> 2. To the East-ward of the Town, about

a Mile or little more, there is

an

Hill called

<EM>Monte Nero,</EM> upon which there

is

good harbarizing. You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide

with you to the Place. From <EM>Ligorn</EM> you have 15

Miles

of Smooth and Plain way to

</P>

<P>

<EM>Pisa.</EM> It is

an

Ancient City, sometimes

a common-wealth by it self, and then both Rich and populous:

But since it was

Reduced

under the command of

94

the great Duke of <EM>Tuscany,</EM> it

is

neither of the two; the far greater

part of the Inhabitants,

after the Town was

Reduced,

chusing

rather to abandon their Native Country, than their Liberty, or

at least preferring

a voluntar

Subjection abroad, to a necessitated

Slavery at home. The City is

large and Beautifull,

divided,

as it were

in two by the River <EM>Arno,</EM> and again

conjoyned

by a beautifull

Bridge, of white Marble. The Air of this Place, in Winter,

is

judged

to be more Temperate than

that at <EM>Florence,</EM> &amp; therefore the great Duke

uses

to pass the Winter here. There are many

things

considerable in this Town; as, <EM>1st.</EM> The great Church,

which is

a Stately Fabrick,

and well adorned

within, as also the <EM>Batistaria</EM> whereof the

Doores,

as also of the great Church, are all

covered

with Massive Brass, cast into delicat

Figures.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The crooked

Steeple, which leanes

to one side very far from the perpendicular; some people

alledge

it was

purposely

so built,

but I am

more apt to beleeve

that the ground hath

miss-given

on the one side

95

by little and little, or rather

insensibly,

which may be some part of the Reason, why it

hath

hung

together so long without

falling,

to which the excellencie

of the Cement and Workman-ship hath

contributed

very much; my opinion, to one that

narrowly

observes,

will not appear to be unreasonable, for the

outside

is

of so many Rows

of small Pillars

going

round about, and the lower-most Row, on that side that it

leanes

to, is

more than half hid

in the ground, where as those of the other are

wholy

to be seen;

which I suppose could not have happened

otherways, than as I have said.

<EM>3ly.</EM> The Buriall

Place, which is

the most stately I ever saw,

being

a long quadrangle, well walled

and galleried

about, in the midle

whereof are very many Monuments

of great antiquity, of many of the ancient noble

Families

of <EM>Pisa.</EM> They are most of

them

of white Marble in shape like a

Coffine,

wherein the Body of the Dead persons

was

laid:

Some of them

are carved

in one Fashion and some of

them

in another, and

96

some of them

into excellent Figures.

<EM>4ly</EM> The Dukes

Palace. <EM>5ly.</EM> The Physical Garden, together with the

Rarities

that are keept

in a Gallery belonging

to the Garden, where you will see a very great Collection of

Natural Curiosities.

The Garden uses

to have very rare exotick

Plants;

but in regard you can have no access to it, except by the

recommendation of the

Physitian,

that is

Professor of <EM>Botany</EM>

for the time, therefore I think it will be worth your while to

make your address to him,

for a Libertie,

first, to see the Garden and Gallery;

secondly,

to get from the Gardener or himself, the

Seeds,

of such as you have a mind to, and a

Peece

of the Plant for drying,

if you think fitting;

you must not be negligent here, for this

is

one of the best Gardens

in <EM>Italy,</EM> &amp; in my opinion

preferable to that of <EM>Padua,</EM>

especially

for exotick

Plants.

The University, for the

whole Estate of <EM>Tuscany,</EM>

is

keep'd here, and if you please you may see the

Schooles

for all Professions,

and particularly

that for the Lawes,

where

97

the most renowned

<EM>Bartholus</EM> did

teach. Amongst the Booksellers

you may find something to accommodat you,

because it

is

an

University Town, and I shall tell you here, because I do not

remember to have it

done

as yet, that, generally

speaking,

all sort of Books

in <EM>Italy,</EM> are cheaper

than in any other place where I have

been.

I pray You remember to get a

Couple of the Catalogues

of the Garden there, of the last Edition.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Pisa,</EM> You have but a small half

days

Journey, of very pleasant Way, to <EM>Luca,</EM> which

is

a Delicat little Town, a Republick

by it self, and having

but a very small Territory belonging

to it; it is

well and regularly

fortified

with a dry Ditch, which is

keept

very cleane

and in good Order, and allways

Green: the Republick

is

governed

by a Prince or Chief Magistrat,

whom

they choose of their own Town, and change

him

every two Month: So soon as any

one is

chosen,

he must leave his own House and

Friends,

and retire himself to the

98

Publick

Palace, where he is

assisted

by some other of the Nobles,

&amp; cannot come out untill

his Government be finished.

</P>

<P>The Humour of the people is

Chearfull

and very Civil, and contrary to the

Custome

of all <EM>Italy,</EM> Men

and Women

converse freely

amongst themselves or with Strangers.

They use Balls

&amp; Danceing,

much after the <EM>French</EM> Fashion; The Religious people use

to distill

Spirits

and Essences,

whereof you may provide what Quantitie

you please, both good, and good cheap, I wish you might help a

Friend to some of Orange-Flowers

and Myrtles;

The religious Women

likeways

use to make very prettie

Things,

and particularly

I remember they use to sell Stomagers of

quilted

Silk, which most people use to wear in the Winter-time, of one

Fashion or another.</P>

<P>

From <EM>Luca,</EM> if you please, you may go to

<EM>Pisloia,</EM> and so to <EM>Florence,</EM> or

otherways

returne

to <EM>Pisa,</EM> and from thence, either by Coach or Horse,

to <EM>Florene.</EM> If the

Weather be not too hot, it

99

is

better to go on Horse-back, in regard of the prospect of the

Countrie,

which cannot be had

in a Coach. <EM>Florence</EM> is

a new Town, but one of the most

beautifull

in all <EM>Italy,</EM> and therefore

called

<EM>Fioren<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

a la Bella;</EM> it is

situated

upon the River <EM>Arno,</EM> which

divides

it in two sev<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rall

places,

over which stands

four fair Bridges.

The City is

Counted

at least six miles

in Compass; The Beautie

of it consistes

in the Stateliness of the Buildings,

the great number of Palaces,

the neateness and cleannesse

of the Streets,

occasioned

by the largeness and smoothnes

of the Stones,

with which it is

paved;

the many large Places,

Fountains,

Statues,

Churches,

Towers,

Convents

&amp; Gardens;

Of all which it hath

very many of the best in <EM>Italy.</EM> There

is

scarce any thing in this City; which

is

not very well worthie

to be taken

notice of&#0183; but particularly.

1. The Dukes

two Palaces,

the Old and the New; In the new the great Duke himself

keeps

his Court. It is

a <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ost

magnificent Structure, o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

the <EM>T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>scan</EM>

Order of Architecture, but not finished

100

as yet; The Garden belonging

thereto is

very well furnished,

with Rare Plants

and Flowers;

of which the Catalogue is

Printed,

of which I desire You to bring alongs

a Couple of Copies.

It will not be a miss to make Acquaintance with the Gardener;

for, so you will get what Seeds

you please. The old Palace stands

in the great Place of the City, in the

midle

of which Place there is

a Stately Colossus of Brass, of <EM>Cosmus</EM> great Duke of

<EM>Florence</EM> a Horse back, by the Model whereof that of

<EM>Henry</EM> the great upon the new Bridge of <EM>Paris</EM>

was

made.

Near to the Entrie

into the Palace there are severall

other Noble Statues

of Marble: within the Palace

it self is

that so much famed,

over the World, Gallerie,

which is

composed

of many Roomes,

containing

great Varietie

of the choisest

Curiosities;

as Sta<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ues,

Busta's, Baserelieues,

Paintings,

Drawings,

Prints,

Cabinets,

Jewels,

Cameo's, Intaillia's, with all sorts

of <EM>Anticailles,</EM> with an

infinite number of Master-peeces

of latter

times.

Amongst other things,

there

101

is

a Chamber or two full of all sorts

of Armes,

amongst which those of <EM>Charles</EM> the Great and

<EM>Roland,</EM> with severall

Swords

of <EM>Henry</EM> the great, also a great Number of

Cymiters,

some whereof have their Scabbards

set with Rubies,

Emeralds,

and other precious Stones.

There is

an

ancient Buckler with a Medusa's Head,

Painted

by <EM>Michael Angelo bona rota.</EM> I remember to have

observed

some ancient Casaques, whose weight I

am

confident no Head could sustain, unless so

adjusted

to the rest of the Armour, and that to the

Sadle,

that the Horse must have carried

all. You must endeavour to

get a Writen

Inventure of the severall

Curiosities

in the Gallerie,

for without that it is

not possible to remember

every particular; Within this Palace, the great Duke

uses

to keep the most excellent Artisans

he can meet with, of all Trades,

to whom

he gives

considerable

Salaries

and Priviledges,

whom

you will do well to see, but especially

the Stone-Cutters,

of whose Art I intreat you to take particular notice, and what

102

Instruments

they use, and learne

at least as much of it as may serve to polish

Stones.

Amongst other Curiosities

of this Trade, You may see a New way of

Mosaick

Work, wherein the figure is

compleated

most delicatly,

both as to the parts

and Colours

thereof, by the Natural Colours

of the severall

peeces

of Stones

assembled

together; and which is

strange, all the lights

and shadows

requisite in

Painting

is

herein observed;

So that they can imitate Nature

allmost

as fully

this way as in Painting

it self. This way differs

from the old Mosaick,

in that the particular Peeces

that compose it, are of

different Figures

according

as the colours

require; for example, a Cherrie

because it is

all of one Colour, therefore

it may be represented

by a Red stone of a round Figure in one

Peece,

but the Stalk of it must be of an

other different figure: But in the old way, all the

peeces

were

Quadrangular, whatsoever might be the colour or thing to be

represented,

and of this kind of Mosaick

you will see a most excellent

103

Peece

in St. <EM>Peters</EM>

Church at <EM>Rome,</EM> representing

St. <EM>Michael</EM> the Arch-Angel

treading

upon the <EM>Devil.</EM> In this

Palace

likeways,

the great Duke keeps

a Chymical

Laboratorie,

called

<EM>la Funderia,</EM>

wherein are made

very many notable preparations

with great Faithfullness,

especially

Spirits

and Essences,

which may be bought

here at reasonable

Rates,

and without fear of being

cheated,

as to the goodnes

of the things,

<EM>2ly.</EM> Severall

Churches

and Convents,

particularly

the <EM>Dome</EM> the out-side whereof

is

the most beautifull

in <EM>Europe,</EM> being

all crusted

with Black. White and Red Marble,

fit<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>y

placed

together in regular figures.

The Church within

is

Paved

with black and white Marble,

and Richly

adorned

with Chapels

and Altars;

The Cupola is

very Large and Fine insomuch that the Golden Ball upon the Top

of it, which is

able to contain a great many Persons,

does

not appear from the Ground to be

bigger

than a good Foot-Bal; Near to the <EM>Dome</EM>

stands

<EM>Jota</EM>'s Towre,

one of the most

104

admirable Peeces

of Architecture, in the World; being

a square Steeple, without any spite on the Top of it, all

crusted

with black, white and red Marble, in most regular

figures

from the top to the bottom; near to it

stands

the round Chapel of St. <EM>John</EM>

delicately

payed

with Marble, and adorned

with statues,

with a Rich Vase adorned

with precious Stones,

wherein the Children

are Baptised.

The Doors

of the Chapel are of Brass, all in

Figures

of personage in Base-relieve of most admirable

Workmanship; in this

Chapel is

the Sepulchre of <EM>Jota,</EM> that renown'd Painter and

Architect, upon

whom

there are some excellent

Latin verses

there ingraven,

which I have lost,

but <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>mend

to you to take a Copie

thereof. In the Church of St. <EM>Spirito;</EM> there

is

an

Altar ha<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cost

above a Hundred Thousand Crowns,

which were

left by a <EM>Florentin</EM> Gentleman

for that effect. In the Church <EM>de Sancta

Cr<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ce,</EM>

(I h<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ve

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>orgot

whether i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

belongs

to the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> or

Ja<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>obi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>;)

<EM>Michael Ang<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

bona rota</EM> i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

interred,

105

and it is

said

at his own desire, that he might

lye

within the View of <EM>Jota</EM>'s

Towre,

which he did

so much admire in his lifetime; Upon his Tome there are three

most delicate Statues,

the one represents

Painting;

the second, Sculpture; the

third Architecture: in which three

Arts,

he was

so great a Master. St. <EM>Laurence</EM> Church

was

magnificently

built

by <EM>Cosmo de Medicis,</EM> whose

Scpulchre

is

to be seen

there. There is

that famous Chapel, which the Dukes

continually

Labour to Finish. It is

the most Glorious thing extant in the World, there

being

already bestowed

upon the Workman-ship thereof above eight

Millions

of Gold, and I beleeve

a considerable deal more

will not perfect it. It is

not very large, but built

round; it is

all Mosaik, both the Floore,

roofe

and sides;

and the least considerable Stones

that compose it, are Jasper, Porphir,

Alabaster, Lapis Lazuli

&amp;c. there are severall

nests

in the Wall about, where the statues

of the Dukes

are to stand as they lived

and succeeded

to the another. The

106

Great Altar is

not yet set up, because of peoples

being

still at work in the Chapel, nor

is

it yet altogether finished,

but yet there is

so much done,

that to look upon it, one should

hardly

think there were

any thing wanting.

It is

keept

in the Dukes

Wardrobe in the Old Palace, of which I

forgot

to speake

formerly,

and therefore tell You now

that it is

one part of the old Palace which You must not

faile

to see, there being

in it a vast Treasure of Silver and Gold Plate, with many

other Precious things.

The Altar is

keept

in a little Room by it self, I shall not under-take to

descrive

it particularly,

but only desire You to consider well every part of it, the

Richness of the Materials

and excellencie

of the Workemanship,

the <EM>Mosaicks,</EM>

and the <EM>Christall</EM>

Pillars,

and I believe You will easily

excuse my holding

by the general, and omitting

to speak of particulars:

I do truely

think that the beauties

and excellencies

of this Chapel and Altar, are so great and so many, that they

Deserve a Particular Book to make

them

known

to the world,

107

and it may be there is

some such work intended,

or alreadie

extant, which if it be I am

confident You will take care to have it.

</P>

<P>

I must give You notice in this Place, that You will doe well

to Treat with some of those men

that Work about the Chapel, or else with some of those

stone-cutters

in the Gallery for some small Peeces

of all the species of stones;

let them

be of such a Bigness as may easily

serve to know them

by. I make no doubt but You may get

them

at a Reasonable Rate. But I must

earnestly

intreat You to mind those two Species of

stones

which are found in Quarries

not farr

from <EM>Florence,</EM> whereof the one

Naturally

represents

Townes

and Landscapes,

the other is

some what Whiter,

and has

Trees

and Forrests

Represented

on it, by little Black Draughts;

I remember to have shown

you a small Peice

of each sort, but now I would have, two or three

larger

Peeces

of both the sorts,

of about a span-Length, and of the best

Marked,

for I intend to put them

in frames,

as a Cheif

ornament of my

108

Tradescants. I shall hold You compt for the price. 3. The

Place where the wild Beasts

are keept.

It is

a long square Peece

of ground Walled

about, and galleried

on the Top for Spectators;

under the galleries

are litle

cells

that open to the Place, in each of which there

is

keept

a severall

Wild Beast, such as <EM>Lyons, Tygers,

Leopards,

Woolfs,

Beares,</EM>

&amp;c. These have their keeper that

waits

upon them,

and Feeds

them,

and when the great Duke commands,

they are brought

out, one or more, as he Pleases,

and bated

with Dogs,

or otherwise set to fight with one another, Upon such

occasions

strangers

are Permitted

to see. 4. The Book-sellers;

of which there are prettie

store here and those well furnished

too. You cannot miss of a <EM>Casalpinus de Plantis</EM> or

two, for it was

Printed

in this Place. If You can get his appendix <EM>ad libros de

Plantis,</EM> You will oblidge

me to bring it with You; it was

Printed

by it self at <EM>Rome.</EM> You may

possibly

meet with other good Books,

for it is

ordinar

when Learned

men

die&#0183; for Book-Sellers

to buy

109

their Books.

I must likeways

put You in mind to buy a Printed

Paper for me, that was

Published

at <EM>Florence,</EM> called

<EM>Testis examinatus;</EM> it containes

two or three figures

of the <EM>Testicles</EM>

with a short Description thereof, in one single leaf.

</P>

<P>There is

one Dr. <EM>Kirton</EM> Dr. of <EM>Physick,</EM>

He is

a very civill

and obligeing

Gentleman; If he be yet alive he will be Your Interpreter: and

if You need not that, he will help You to expede the rest of

Your affairs;

in short, both his counsell

and his company are to be esteemed;

He is

an

<EM>English</EM> Man born, low in stature and

prettie

ancient.</P>

<P>You must not faill in this Place to take notice, of the

variety of Fruits,

&amp; Wines;

as the Red <EM>Florence</EM> Wine, which

is

counted

the best for ordinar

Drinking,

being

stomachical and without Sweetnes.

The White <EM>Florence</EM> Wine, which

is

Sweet; <EM>Verdea,</EM> which is

delicious small Sweet white Wine; <EM>Monte Pulciano,</EM> White

and Red, both very good Wines,

so called

from the Place they grow upon, and many more such.</P>

<P>

110

If You happen to be here in the

Summer time,

especially

when the Grapes

are Ripe, You will find in the Markets

great Varietie

of Fowles

and small Birds,

whereof I intreat You to take

notice, but especially

of those kinds,

that are not common with us, and try to get their

Skins,

which may be easily

done,

when the bird hath

not been

long Dead; the rump must be left at it for

preserving

of the Taile;

The Head, Wings

and Feet

must be likewise left, and

only tbe body taken

out, &amp; so the Skin filled

with Flax or Cotton. This I intreat You to remember to doe

wheresoever You shall happen to be in the Summer time, and if

any such occasion Present it self to You in Winter, not to

ommit

it.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Florence</EM> to <EM>Rome</EM> You have 140.

Miles;

there are severall

wayes

of Travelling,

<EM>viz.</EM> by Coach, by <EM>Procaccio</EM> or Messenger

with whom

you agree for so much; as is

usuall

in <EM>France:</EM> and by the <EM>Viturin,</EM> that

is,

by hyring

of Horse at a certain Rate, &amp;

Paying

for Your own entertainment at every part as you pass.

111

If you be acquainted

with the customes

of the Countrey,

and have Language enough to make Your self

understood,

this last way is

the best, because you will be sure to fare better, and cost

you no more, than you would otherwise Pay to the Messenger,

who will be sure to provide

the worst chear

for you, that he may make the better for himself: in short, it

is

best to be Master of your own Purse, and not live at the

discretion of Your Conductor. I have

forgot

hitherto to tell you that there

is

some Incommoditie

for Travellers

upon the Road, as to their Bedding,

their Cloaths

espiecially, the Sheets

being

for the most part very nasty, and it

is

but now and then that either money or fair

words

can procure a Pair of clean Sheets.

The best remedy I know is

not to put off ones

Cloaths,

and to wrap ones

self, especialy

the Head, in their Cloak, that the face and

Hands

may not touch any unclean thing; in short a

litle

Patience will do it, and you will be sure to be better

accomodated

in good Towns.

</P>

<P>

112

The places

You are to pass by, are Cheifly

these as follows.

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>FLORENCE.</H4>

<LI>S. Casciano 9 Miles</LI>

<LI>Le Tavernelle 8 Miles</LI>

<LI>Pogibonzo 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Staggia 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>Siena 9 Miles</LI>

<LI>Montarone 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Lucignano 3 Miles</LI>

<LI>Bonconvento 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Tornieri 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>S. Quirie 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>La Scala 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>Ricorso 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>La Paglia 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Ponte Centino 9 Miles</LI>

<LI>Acquapendente 2 Miles</LI>

<LI>S. Lorenzo 3 Miles</LI>

<LI>Bolsena 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>Montefiascone 6 Miles</LI>

<LI>Viterbo 8 Miles</LI>

<LI>Ronciglione 10 Miles</LI>

<LI>Monterosi

8 Miles</LI>

<LI>Roma 20 Miles</LI>

</UL>

<P>

113

There are not many considerable

things

to be seen

upon this Road; <EM>Siena</EM> was

a republick

by itself, but was

reduced

by the Emperour

<EM>Charles</EM> the <EM>5th.</EM> and by his Son

<EM>Philip</EM> Gifted

to the Great Duke of <EM>Tuscany,</EM>

under whose Power it still Remains.

The Town is

of a good bigness, and commended

for it's Situation, and the purity of the <EM>Italian</EM>

Tongue. The <EM>Dome</EM> or great Church

is

a statly

Fabrick;

it is

Paved

with Marble, but especialy

the Quire, upon which is

most Curiously

Graven

the History of

<EM>Abraham</EM> Sacrificeing

his Son, and History of the <EM>Maccabees,</EM>

and for the better Preservation of

them

they are covered

with Matts.

There is

likewise an

entrie

from the Church to the Bibliotheck

of <EM>Aeneas Sylvius,</EM> who

was

born in this Town. He was

once Legat

from the <EM>Pope</EM> into <EM>Scotland,</EM> and

afterwards

Created

<EM>Pope</EM> himself, and took

the name of <EM>Pius Secundus.</EM> He

was

a Man of great Learning.

The late <EM>Pope Alexander</EM> VII.

was

Native of this Place, of the Family of <EM>Chigi;</EM> his

Statue is

to be seen

in the great Church. The greatest

Part of the

114

and the Towre

belonging

to it are of Black and White Marble without. In the Church of

St. <EM>Dominic,</EM> amongst other

Relicts,

is

preserved

the Head of St. <EM>Catharine</EM> of <EM>Siena.</EM> The

Tovvne

is

well watered

with many fine Fountains.

The great place is

made

with a kind of Descent Theatre ways,

so that from the middle of the Place You may see all that walk

in it. <EM>Montefiascone</EM> is

famous for a most Delicious Kind of <EM>Muscatello</EM> Wine,

which You must be sure to Tast.

The Messenger uses

to Dine without the Town, but you will be sure to fare better

and get better Wine within;

There goes

a storie

that a <EM>German</EM> killed

himself in this Place with Drinking

excessivly

of this <EM>Muscat.</EM> As you

goe

from thence to <EM>Viterbo</EM> you will find a kind of

<EM>Aspalathus,</EM> which I take to be <EM>Acacia altera

Angularae.</EM> It growes

as high as our Broom, and is

plentifull

enough, so that you will easily

discover it.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Viterbo,</EM> all that distance to <EM>Rome</EM>

is

called

the <EM>Campania</EM> of <EM>Rome,</EM> in which it

is

thought most dangerous to sleep in

122

the Summer time, therefore if you fortune to travel it in

Summer, whither to <EM>Rome</EM> or from it (the same

is

under stood

of 40. Miles

distance round about <EM>Rome</EM>) you must be sure not to

sleep in the <EM>Campania,</EM>

which you may easily

avoid by Travelling

in the night. when you arrive at <EM>Rome</EM> you must give

up your name at the Port; your Countrey,

the Place from which <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ou

came

last, and the house you goe

to Lodge at: and from thence you must go <EM>a la dogano,</EM>

or to the Custom House, where your Cloakbag must be

Searched,

and from thence to your lodg<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ng

place, according

to the Billet given

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ou at the

Port, without which no House <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eeper

dare receave

a stranger; But they <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>re

things

of Course and effectuat

without any trouble. You will

doe well to Lodge in a Pension for the first week,

untill

you have made

some acquaintance, by means

whereof you may be fullie

informed

where to light upon a convenient <EM>Camera locanda:</EM>

There was

two <EM>French</EM> Pensions,

and one <EM>English</EM> in my time. The first of the

<EM>French</EM> was

<EM>Al monte d'oro.</EM> The second

was

<EM>nella strada del Populo</EM>

123

The English pension was

in the same <EM>strada del

Populo, alla villa di Londra:</EM> we

had

severall

Countrey

men

living

in the Town in my time, as particularly

<EM>signior Roberto Pendrick,</EM> a

worthie

old Gentleman, and most

obligeing

to his Countrey

men,

he was

my particular good friend; and I make no doubt but you will

find him

so, for I hear he is

still alive, and I wish he may be long so. He

lives

in a House of his own upon the <EM>Triuita di monte.</EM>

There is

an

other called

<EM>Signior don Gulielmo

Lesly,</EM> He is

Chaplain to Cardinal

<EM>Carlo Barberino</EM> and lives

<EM>nella Cancellaria.</EM>

I dare be confident to give you this man for one of the most

faithfull

Friends

in the World, and one in whose goodness, prudence, Kindness,

and good Conduct you may trust ten Thousand

Lives:

to be short you will find I am

not mistaken,

when I call him

<EM>deliciae humani

generis,</EM> for in all my lifetime I never

knew

another like him,

make it their whole work and study to find

opportunities

to oblige every Countrey-man

according

to his condition: The p<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>r

of

124

them,

with Food and Rayment

and whatsoever else they

may stand in need of, and all other

men

with continual offices

of civility. By his

means

you will get to see many of these

things

I shall recommend to you hereafter. If I Know of your

going

to <EM>Italy</EM> in time, I shall have a Letter there before

you. Your best convenience for Lodging

and Diet will be <EM>a Camera Locanda.</EM>

You may take it in that place of the town that

suits

best with your occasions,

you will pay for it by the month, less or more

according

to the goodness of the Chamber and furniture thereof. As for

your diet it will be drest

in the House, and you must tell at night what you

Intend to eat next day, that

they may provide it for you:

As for the prices

you cannot be

easily

Cheated,

because as to that, most things

are Regulated,

And in the quantitie

it is

not possible you should be overreached

because all things

are sold

by weight. There are severall

Kinds

of Bread used

in this City, but that which is

called

<EM>Papaline</EM> is

undoubtedly

the best. There are likewise many

sorts

of Wines,

125

some of them

<EM>Galliardi</EM> or strong, as <EM>Greco, Muscatello di

Saragosa,

Lagrima</EM> &amp;c. others are <EM>Legieri,</EM> or small,

and they are many; the best for common use

is

<EM>Albano,</EM> which You may drink pure: and it

is

remarkable that there are

but few places

in <EM>Italy</EM> where Water may be

Drunk

safely,

and because one may be mistaken

in the choise,

the best remedy is

to Drink none at all. There are great variety of

fruits

according

to the Seasons

of the year, I shal

only desire you to be cautious, and not to eat too much or too

often of any, but especialy,

of <EM>Melons,

Cucumbers,</EM>

and the <EM>Malanzane,</EM> or <EM>mala insana,</EM> which are

a Kind of <EM>Solanum Pomiferum.</EM> There are good store and

Many Kinds

of Fishes,

especialy

Sea Fish, whereof the best are,

<EM>Sols,

il Pisce Capone</EM> &amp;c. The <EM>Tunino</EM>

is

a great Fish as big as our <EM>Salmond,</EM> and Red like it,

but harder

and dryer

a great deale,

the bellie

of it is

verie

fatt

and they use to Salt and sell it in the

Taverns,

being

sliced

in small peeces

upon a Trencher; Fresh <EM>Sturgeon</EM>

is

very common; <EM>Lobsters</EM>

are much harder

and worse to disgest

126

than ours:

as for fleshes,

<EM>Bufalo</EM> is

only eaten

by the Poorer

sort of people; Beif which they call <EM>Vacina</EM>

is

good; <EM>Vitella campo reccia,</EM> or Hudron

is

good, but above all the <EM>Vitella mongana</EM> or

sucking

Veal. Lamb is

worth nothing, nor Mutton either, which they call

<EM>Castrato,</EM> and serves

only to make Broath

for Sick People;

Kids

are good. In the Winter-time there

is

is

abundance of <EM>Sangliers</EM> or wild

Boars,

as also <EM>Porcepics.</EM> The Snow in that season,

driving

them

from the Hills

to the Valleys,

where they are Killed

by the Hunters.

There is

likeways

great Variety of Fowl. There

is

none so common as Quailes,

at two seasons

of the year, that is,

the Spring when they come into <EM>Italy,</EM> and the latter

end of <EM>Autumn,</EM> at which time they are much

fatter

and better when they go from it. It

is

said

that they draw together to the Coast side, and there wait for

the rest of their number a whole

Moneth,

and then at last, their <EM>Caravan</EM>

being

complete, they flee away nearer

the Sunn

in a great cloud. The <EM>Pigione Sotto hanca</EM> are the

biggest

and

127

fattest,

and best for eating

in the world: they are good in all

seasons

of the year. About the time of Vintage there are great Variety

of small Birds,

all very fatt

&amp; good, and at easie

Rates,

amongst which the <EM>Ortolani,</EM> and <EM>Beccafiche</EM>

are most esteemed.

</P>

<P>

As for the things

to be seen

here, they are so many, and so considerable, that it would

require a large Volume to describe

them,

and there are abundance of such

Books

extant, to which I referr

you, and especially

to one in 80. called

<EM>L' Antichita di Roma di Andrea Fulvio:</EM> but you must

not fail to get an

<EM>Antiquario,</EM> who

for a certain Summ

of two or three Crowns

will show you all the particular

Antiquities

and considerable places

of the Town, and as for the fuller information of

them

your Book will serve you: I shall only hint at

somethings

worthie

to be taken

notice of; 1. The Court; that is,

the Pope, Cardinals,

Prelates,

Monsigniorie &amp;c. There are some great Holy

days,

when the Pope Celebrats Mass in person; it will be sit to

128

wait upon some of these occasions,

for then you will see the Grandeur of the Court and the

forme

of a Cavalcata, together with the

Popes

ordinary Guards.

2. The Churches.

3. The Palaces;

especially

those of the <EM>Vatican,</EM> together with the Bibliotheck

and Gardens

of <EM>Belvidere,</EM> in which amongst other

things

take particular notice of

the statue of <EM>Ly<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>aon</EM>

with the Serpents

wreathed

about him;

There is

an

other Garden also belonging

to the <EM>Vatican,</EM> in which there are many

exotick

Plants,

it was

planted

by the Popes

order, by <EM>Tobias

Aldinus</EM> and is

Keept

still in reasonable good order; amongst other

things

you will find the <EM>Cameripses,</EM> or

<EM>Camedactylus,</EM> of the bigness of a Low Tree and

carrying

Fruit; there is

likewise a <EM>Grotta</EM> or

water work, and very fine Fountains

of water, about which grows

plentifully

the <EM>Capillus veneris Major</EM> or <EM>Ramosus.</EM> and

<EM>Arum Aegyptium

Mathioli,

sive Colocasia,</EM> which is

a plant carying

no stalk, flowr

nor fruit in <EM>Italy</EM> (I know not what it

does

in its

native Soyle)

but only broad Leaves

very large and round.

</P>

<P>

129

The Palace of <EM>Farnese;</EM> and in it that Gallery whereof

the Painting

in <EM>Fresco</EM> by <EM>Aniball Caraccio</EM>

is

so famous, and the <EM>Tauro</EM> which

is

kept

in a little House a part, in the back court of the Palace. It

is

the noblest

piece of Art extant in <EM>Rome</EM>

altho

it be very antient,

as being

one of those named

by <EM>Pliny,</EM> to have been

in his time in <EM>Foro Trajani;</EM> yet it

is

not only intire,

but as beautifull

as if it had

never been

moved

out of the place it stands

in now.

</P>

<P>

The Palace of <EM>Principe Pamphilio;</EM> it

stands

in the <EM>Piazza Navona,</EM> where you may take notice of

that Glorious Fountain made

by Cavelier <EM>Bernini,</EM> whereupon the top of a little

artificial Rock, are placed,

four great delicate Marble Statues,

representing

the foure

great Rivers

of the World, and each of them

pouring

out of a Vale placed

under one Arme,

a great quantitie

of Water, and in the middle of the four there

stands

one of these <EM>Gulias</EM> graven

with <EM>Aegyptian

Hieroglyphicks,</EM>

brought

from <EM>A<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>gypt</EM>

by the Antient

<EM>Romans.</EM>

They use to

130

stop the way-goe

of the Water, sometimes

in the Summer, and lett

the Place overflow with Water, and then

People come toward the evening,

in their Coaches,

and drive softly

up and down the water to take the <EM>fresco,</EM> which

is

one of the greatest

<EM>Gusto</EM>'s in <EM>Rome.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Palazzo Borghese,</EM> Standing

near to the <EM>Ripetta. Palazza Palistrino;</EM> and in it the

library, where you may see two copies

of the <EM>Hortus Eystetensis,</EM> one

illuminated

and the other not; Mr. <EM>Lesty</EM> will command you a sight

of that when you please, for it

belongs

to <EM>Cardinall

Francisco Barberino.</EM></P>

<P>

The Popes

Palace of <EM>Monte Cavallo,</EM> and the

Gardens

thereof. 4. The <EM>Villa</EM>'s: as first that of

<EM>Borghese,</EM> which is

without the

walls:

there is

a particular Book to be sold

by the House keeper, that sufficiently

descrives

it and all the beauties

of it, to which I Refer you. <EM>2ly.</EM> the <EM>villa</EM>

or <EM>Palazzo medici,</EM> belonging

to the great Duke of <EM>Tuscany.</EM> It

stands

upon the <EM>monte Trinita,</EM> the Hall

is

adorned

with a great many Pillars

standing

131

about the Walls,

of most delicat Marbles,

and the Originalls

of a great many <EM>Illustres</EM> and

<EM>virtuosi.</EM>

In one of the Chambers

there is

a most beautifull

statue of <EM>Venus,</EM> of <EM>Grecian</EM>

Antiquitie.

In the Garden there is

a Noble statue of <EM>Cleopatra,</EM> the

Ruins

whereof were

repared

by <EM>Michaell

Angelo bona rota,</EM> and many other

statues

<EM>Base Releiv</EM>'s and <EM>Vases,</EM>

which for Brevities

sake I must omit, and refer you to the particular

Books

that treat of those things,

But most of all to your own diligence in

viewing

them

and keeping

a punctuall

Register of all that you see, and so I shall only name some of

the <EM>Villa</EM>'s that remain, and are most considerable.

As the <EM>Villa Montalto;</EM> The <EM>Villa

Ludovisi,</EM> where amongst

other Admirable things

the statue of the dying

<EM>Gladiator</EM>

is

excellent. The <EM>Villa Farnesi;</EM>

The <EM>Villa Pamphilio,</EM> which

is

a pretie

way without the walls,

and the rest which I leave to your sight.

</P>

<P>

<EM>5ly.</EM> The Castle of <EM>St. Angelo,</EM> which

formerly

was

the Burial Place of <EM>Hadrian</EM>

132

the Emperor. 6. The Hospitalls;

Particularly

that of St. <EM>Spirito,</EM> which

is

a most magnificent Structure, and well

appointed

in all things.

They will show you amongst other remarkable

things,

the Place where the Children

of such a Bigness are

permitted

to be put in, without any further

inquirie

made

after them,

or who brought

them.

By this means

the Life of many a Child hath

ben

saved,

which otherways would have been

taken

away to prevent the disgrace

of the Parents.

They are no sooner

put in, but Nurses

are got

for them:

If they be Boyes,

when they come to a convenient Age they are put to

Trades,

according

ro their several Inclinations

and Capacities.

But if they be Girles,

then when they come to the Years

of discretion, if they incline not to a

Religious Life, every one of

them

is

provided

with so much Portion to Marry her with, out of the common

revenue of the House; And then upon a certain Day

appointed

for that purpose; all <EM>Zitelle</EM> or

maids

come in Procession, one after another,

133

with their Faces

Vail'd, and the Men

that come there upon such Days,

of purpose to choose a Wife,

(for all of them

have a like Portions)

pitch upon such as please them

best, and present them

a Nosegay, after which, she

is

sequestred

from the rest, &amp; the Marriage Solemniz'd, after the Man

has

given

Information of himself and

sufficient Caution that he shall provide a Lively-hood for

her. There is

a very fine little Garden that belongs

to the Hospital lying

just upon the <EM>Tyber.</EM>

It uses

to be well furnished

with Plants,

and I have seen

the <EM>Dictamnus Creticus</EM> in

flowre

there. <EM>7ly.</EM> The Convents;

as particularly

the <EM>French Minims</EM>

upon the <EM>Monte Trinita.</EM> In the upper

Gallerie

of their Cloyster

there is

a Dyall,

where the Sun beams,

entering

by a small round hole, Point the

Hours.

It was

made

by <EM>Marsennus</EM> that famous Mathematician, a Father of

their Countrie

and Order. They have likeways,

in a particular part of their Garden some rare

Plants,

as <EM>Malus punica flore

amplissimo pleno &amp; Variegato.</EM>

</P>

<P>

134

The <EM>Minerva;</EM> which was

anciently

the Temple of <EM>Minerva,</EM> and now

is

the Chief Convent of the <EM>Domini<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ans</EM>

in <EM>Rome.</EM> In my time there

was

a <EM>French</EM> Father there called

<EM>Padre Barilieri</EM> Secretarie

to the General for his Nation; He

was

a great Virtuoso, and exceedingly

well versed

in the whole Historie

of Nature; He had

a very Curious Collection of many

Naturall

Things,

and was

about to have Published

a Large Book in <EM>Folio,</EM> wherein he

had

designed

a Natural History, with a

great many cutts,

which he showed

me. If the Book be Published,

I should be very glad to see it; if he be alive, it will be

worth your while to procure

his acquaintance. He hath

also a Garden well stored

with Plants

at St. <EM>Xisto.</EM>

</P>

<P>The <EM>Roman</EM> Colledge;

where there is

a famous shop and Laboratorie

for <EM>Pharmacie,</EM>

as also a Garden.</P>

<P>

<EM>8ly.</EM> The Capitol; the middle of the Place before it,

is

the Statue of the Emperour

<EM>Marcus Aurelius,</EM> a Horse-back in Brass; It

was

brought

thither from the

135

Place before St. <EM>John de Lateran,</EM> and

is

thought one of the best Modells

in the World. At the Top of the

Staires,

as you enter into the place are two

Horses,

one on every side held

by a Slave in Marble. They were

brought

thither from the Ruines

of <EM>Pompey</EM>'s Theatre. There

is

also in the same Place two Trophies

of <EM>Marius;</EM> there is

also <EM>Columna milliaris,</EM> with a Brass-ball on the Top

of it; there used

to be such a one at every miles

end, upon the common Roads;

&amp; from thence came

their Fashion of counting

the miles

<EM>per Lapides,</EM> as <EM>primo ab urbe Lapide</EM>

was

a mile from the Town &amp;c. The

Capitol, as it now

is,

consists

of three Palaces

all of Excellent <EM>Architecture,</EM> and

beautified,

both within and without with Painting,

Statues,

and other Monuments

of antiquitie;

the particular Relation whereof I

referr

to the Books

that are written

thereof, and particularly

to one called

<EM>Roma antica &amp; Moderna,</EM>

&amp; to the particular demonstration of the

<EM>Antiquario,</EM> for I find it will be

utterly

impossible to discourse of every

136

particular, unless I should resolve to compile a Volumn.

</P>

<P>

The rest of the Monuments,

and rests

or rather ruins

of Antiquitie,

I shall pass over, and only name a few of

them;

as for example, first, the Walls

of the City, which were

built

by <EM>Bellisarius</EM> Captain of the

Guards

to <EM>Justinian</EM> the Emperour.

The breaches

have been

repaired

by severall

<EM>Popes.</EM>

The Ports

for the most part are the same they

were

anciently,

only the <EM>Porta del populo</EM>

was

made

a great deal more stately, at the first

Entrie

of <EM>Chris<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ina</EM>

Queen of <EM>Sweden</EM> into <EM>Rome.</EM> There

is

a long courten of the Wall betwixt

<EM>Porta del populo</EM> and <EM>Villa Borghese,</EM> under

which it seems

the Ground has

misgiven,

so that the Wall bendeth, &amp;

is

therefore called

<EM>Muro torto.</EM> Near to this place also,

is

the Burial Place <EM>delle Cortegiane,</EM> there

being

no Christian Burial or Holy Ground

allowed

to such persones.

There is

good Herbarizing

about the walls,

especially

on the out-side, and particularly

you will find a Plant there which

is

not common else where, at

137

least that I have observed,

viz. <EM>Sature<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a

Spicata sive Thymbra S. Juliani<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Satureia vera Lobelii.</EM>

Upon the Wall of the City, close by the Port of St.

<EM>Paul<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

in <EM>via ostiensi;</EM> there

is

yet extant a Pyramid

built

of Marble, which was

the Burial Place of <EM>C. Ces<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ius

Septemvir Epulonum.

Secondly.</EM>

The old Temples;

whereof there are so many that it would be tedious to describe

them

all, I shall only name some, <EM>viz.</EM> The

<EM>Pantheon</EM> now called

<EM>Madonna della rotunda;</EM> It

was

built

by <EM>Marcus Agrippa,</EM> Son-in law to

<EM>Augustus Caesar,</EM> in

Honour of all the Gods.

It had

the Fortune to escape almost totaly,

the ruine,

and fury, which the Goths

&amp; Vandals

brought

upon the <EM>Roman Empire</EM>

and magnificence thereof. I admire the

Roofe

of it, being

so large and so flat without any Pillar, to support it, and

altho'

it be a Vault, it hath

no nevilstone to bind it in

the middle, but in place thereof a round hole so wide that it

lights

the whole Roome

abundantly,

nor is

there any other Window in the Fabrick.

The next thing I admire in it is

138

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>he

Doore-Cheeks

and couple which is

all of one Peece

of white Marble. The Door opens

in two leaves,

very wide &amp; very high, they

were

covered

with <EM>Corinthian</EM>

Brass, as was

also the whole Roofe,

until the time of <EM>Vrban</EM>

VIII. who took

it off, and covered

it with Lead as it now is,

and made

thereof the great Altar of St. <EM>Peters,</EM>

and some peeces

of Ordinance, that are keept

in the Castel

St. <EM>Angelo,</EM> as will testifie

a particular inscription at

the side of the pantheon

Doore,

made

by the <EM>Popes</EM>

command. Upon this occasion

was

that <EM>Pasquinad; Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecere

Barberini.</EM> It has

a most stately <EM>Portico</EM> before the Gate, of a great

many large tall Pillars

of Egyptian black and white speckled

Marble; the descent into the <EM>Portico</EM> from the Street

is

of ten or twelve steps,

but it is

said,

before the ruine

of the City, that there was

as great an

ascent to it; whence it may be gathered,

what an

universal &amp; great devastation of

buildings

must there have been

to fill up so great a deepth.

And indeed it is

observed,

139

that when they have any occasion to dig, it

is

long before they come, in most places,

to the <EM>terra Virgine,</EM>

that is,

which hath

not formerly

been

broke

upon: and when they are

digging

into old ruins,

for <EM>Anticails</EM> (as they are

continually

doing

in severall

places)

they leave off when they come to the <EM>Terra

Virgine.</EM>

Before the <EM>Portico</EM> there

is

a large coffine,

with it's cover and supporters

of Porphyre which they commonly

call <EM>Agrippa</EM>'s <EM>Tombe.</EM>

</P>

<P>Near to the entrie

of the Camp of <EM>Vacino,</EM>

at the bottom of the back stairs

that lead to the Capitol, there

is

a Chapel under ground, which was

formerly

the Prison of St. <EM>Peter</EM> and St. <EM>Paul,</EM> when

they suffered

for the Holy name of <EM>JESVS.</EM>

It was

then called

<EM>Tullianum,</EM> according

to that of <EM>Cicero; est locus in carcere quod Tullianum

appellatur.</EM> The Temple of <EM>Saturn</EM>

is

hard by, which in ancient times

was

the <EM>Aerarium publicum,</EM> in which the

Publick

Treasury was

keept.</P>

<P>

Thirdly,

the <EM>Amphitheatres;</EM>

most part of which are Ruined,

especially

that

140

which was

built

by <EM>Titus,</EM> now <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>alled

the <EM>Coliseo;</EM> by the part thereof that

is

standing

you may abundantly

Judge of the Magnificence of the whole, when it

was

extant. There is

good Herborizing within it, and there

is

one <EM>Dominicus Pa<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>arolus</EM>

that hath

Writen

<EM>Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium;</EM> with the rest

of his works

in <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>0.

<EM>Romae, apud <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ranciscum

Monetam</EM> 1652. to which I refer You.

</P>

<P>Fourthly,

the <EM>Aqueducts;</EM>

of which the most part are ancient: when they come near to the

City, they are convey'd under ground to several

Fountains

in the City, and some of them

so deep, that it is

Prodigious by what art they could have Peirc't so deep, as for

example, the <EM>Aqua Virgine,</EM>

which is

the sweetest

and best for use in all <EM>Rome,</EM>

is

conducted

so deep thro' the <EM>Monte Trinita,</EM> That in the <EM>French

Minims</EM>

Garden there is

a descent of six or seven score

steps

to come at it. Amongst all the Fountains

in <EM>Rome</EM> the most beautifull

are in the <EM>Piazza

Navona,</EM> in the <EM>Piazza</EM> St. <EM>Pietro,</EM> the

<EM>Tre Fountane, &amp;c,</EM></P>

<P>

141

<EM>5ly</EM> The <EM>Thermae,</EM> or

Baths;

as the <EM>Thermae Diocletianae</EM>

built

by the Emperour

<EM>Diocletian.</EM> It is

said

that ten thousand

Christians

were

imployed

about this work, and all cruely

Massacred

when they had

finished

it. It is

now a Monastery of

<EM>Carthusians,</EM>

in whose common Garden I remember to have

seen

the Myrtus <EM>Buxifoliis.</EM> The

ruins

of <EM>Thermae Antonini Caracallae;</EM> they are

situated

<EM>ad Radicem Collis Aventinae.</EM> I have

seen

amongst these Ruins

that kynd

of Capillary, which

is

called

<EM>Hemionitis,</EM> and no where else that I Remember of.

</P>

<P>

Sixthly

the two Columns

of <EM>Antoninus,</EM> and <EM>Tra<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>an</EM>

Emperours;

The Statue of St. <EM>Peter</EM>

stands

upon the Top of one, and that of St. <EM>Paul</EM> upon the

other: <EM>Trajan</EM> was

so well beloved

of the People that to make a

place, which in honour of

him

they called

<EM>forum Trajani,</EM> in the midle

of which this Column stands,

they levelled

a great Hill, of the precise hight of the Column it self. Both

the Columns

are of white Marble, and all the out side

Historified

in base relieue,

142

in a spirall

line beginning

at the bottom and ending

at the top. That of <EM>Trajan</EM>

hath

the whole storie

of the <EM>Dacian</EM> War. There

is

a great Book in <EM>Folio</EM> of this

Column, wherein all the

figures

are cutt

in Brass, and the Large description thereof

added.

I have forgot

the Authors

name, but I believe You will find the Book <EM>Al insegna di

Parigi alla pace</EM> from <EM>Jacomo

Rossi.</EM> where you will likewise find all other

sorts

of Prints

and T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lledouces.

The Columne

of <EM>Antoni<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>us&#0183;</EM>

is

160 foot High and that of <EM>Trajan</EM> 128.

Altho'

they apear

to be but smal

yet each of them

hath

a Stair-Case within, that leads

to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable, as

that which stands

before St. <EM>Maria Majore,</EM> which

was

one of the Pillars

of the <EM>Templum Pacis,</EM> brought

hither by <EM>Paulus</EM> V. who

placed

a Brasen

Statue of the Blessed

Virgine

upon the Top thereof. There is

likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a

Crucifix on the Top of it, erected

in memorie

of the absolution given

to <EM>Henry</EM> the IV. King of <EM>France;</EM> In the

143

Capitoll

likewise there are two <EM>viz.</EM> the <EM>Columna

milliaris,</EM> of which already, and the <EM>Columna

Rostrata,</EM> which you will see when you view the fine

things

within that part of the Capitoll

whi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>h

stands

next to the River, where the Hill

is

most steep and was

anciently

called

<EM>Tarpeia Rupes.</EM>

</P>

<P>Seventhly,

the Triumphall

Arches;

as particularly

that of <EM>Septimius Severus;</EM> That of <EM>Titus;</EM> and

that of <EM>Constantine</EM> &amp;c.</P>

<P>Eighthly,

the Bridges

upon the River. Ninthly,

the <EM>Obelisks;</EM>

most part whereof are

graven

with <EM>Aegyptian

Hieroglyphicks.</EM>

The best of them

is

erected

in the middle of the place before St.

<EM>Peters,</EM>

upon the back of four Brazen Lyons, and a large Pedestal of

Marble. The next best is

at the <EM>Porta dell Populo.</EM></P>

<P>

Tenthly,

the <EM>Septem Colles</EM> or <EM>Montes;</EM> upon which

<EM>Rome</EM> is

said

to be built

<EM>viz. Mons Capitolinus, Mons Palatinus, Mons Aventinus,

Mons Celius, Mons Esquiline<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s.</EM>

(where the House of <EM>Virgil</EM>

was

and the Garden of <EM>Mecoenas,) Mons

Viminalis</EM>

144

and <EM>Mons Quirinalis,</EM> called

now <EM>Monte Cavallo</EM> where the

Popes

Palace is.

</P>

<P>Eleventhly,

some other Hills:

as the <EM>Janicular,</EM>

which is

a Chain of Hills

without the

Walls

in the <EM>Trans<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>evere.</EM>

And the <EM>Mons Testaceus,</EM> which

is

nothing but a heap of broken

earthen Pots

and bricks;

for in ancient times

these were

so much in use; and the <EM>Figuli</EM> or

Tradesmen

that made

them,

so numerous, that there was

a necessity of appointing

them

a particular place, and that by

publick

edict, for throwing

the Ru<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>bish

of their Furnaces

and the pot sheards

that broke

in the Baking

into, least otherwise if it had

been

permitted

to throw them

into the River, it might have occasioned

an

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>nundation

of the City. In process of time it

grew

to the bignes

of the third part of a Mile in Compass, and a Hundred &amp;

Sixtie

foot in hight. This Hill is

within the Walls

not far from the side of the River, as also <EM>Mons

Vaticanus</EM> in <EM>Trans<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>evere,</EM>

so called

<EM>a Vaticiniis</EM> which used

to be made

there: The Palace of the <EM>Vatican</EM>

stands

upon it.</P>

<P>

145

Twelthly, <EM>Roma subterranea;</EM>

commonly

called

the <EM>Catacombs,</EM>

whereof <EM>Bosio</EM> hath

writen

a large Volumn in <EM>Folio.</EM> There are two of

them,

both without the Walls.

One of them

is

at St. <EM>Sebastion</EM>'s Church. They are

<EM>Caverns</EM>

digg'd under ground in the forme

of a Town, that is,

larger

and lesser streets

crossing

one another, in some place lower so that You must be

forced

to stoop, but in others higher

than a Mans

hight, and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the

other, as thick as they can stand one by another, are

holes

or nests

wherein

were

placed

the bodies

of the Dead, one by one, upright upon their

feet,

and so the nests

Plastered

over. The Bodies

and reliques

of many Saints

and Martyrs

have been

found here, and were

known

to be such by the Cross found upon their

Sepulchers,

with this Inscription <EM>Pro CHRISTO.</EM> You must take good

lights

and a good guide to conduct You, for some have

mistaken

their Way and never found an

outgate. The Second, I need not describe it.

</P>

<P>

146

There are severall

things

about <EM>Rome</EM> worthie

the taking

notice of, as 1. <EM>Ponte mola</EM> a Bridge

standing

upon the <EM>Tevere;</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Anio,</EM> some two miles

from the Town, before it joynes

with the <EM>Tyber.</EM>

You go to it by the Port <EM>del Populo.</EM> It

is

considerable for it's Antiquity. It

was

at this Bridge that <EM>Constantine</EM> the great

vanquished

<EM>Maxentius</EM> the Tyrant: There

having

appeared

to him

before the Battle, in the Firmament, a red Cross with these

words

<EM>in hoc Signo vinces.</EM> the story

is

Painted

in <EM>fresco</EM> in the Palace of the <EM>vatican</EM> by a

great Master, where You may see it and You will

seldome

miss Painters

in the Roome

a Copying

of it. 2. The City of <EM>Tivali,</EM> in Latin

<EM>Tibur;</EM> by the way You will pass a little River, The

Sulphureous and noysome

smell whereof You will perceive at a

Miles

distance; it is

of a whitish Colour as if Meall

were

mingled

with it; there is

a white slymie Sulphureous substance

adhering

to the sydes

and bottom of it, which is

soft whilest

it is

under Water, but being

once dryed

becomes

very hard,

147

they use to make counterfeit comfits,

<EM>&amp;</EM> which they call comfits

of <EM>Tivoli</EM> and use to Cheat People with

them

for sports

sake. The River runs

into the <EM>Tiverone</EM> and spoils

the Water thereof, and in my Opinion,

does

much harme

the Water of the <EM>Tyber</EM>

it self, because the <EM>Tiverone</EM>

joyns

with it before it come at the City of <EM>Rome.</EM> The Town

is

verie

ancient, having

several marks

of great Antiquity, as

<EM>Sybilla</EM>'s Temple, <EM>&amp;c.</EM> close by the Town

the River <EM>Teveron<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

falling

from a great hight over a Rock makes

that famous <EM>Cascata</EM> so much

talked

of. It makes

a horrid noise and continues

frothy and

working

for a good way below the fall, and

hath

made

a Million of meanders

and strange figures

in the Rock where it falls.

A little below the fall there is

a Bridge over it of a considerable hight above the Water,

where if You stand a while you will perceive a dew able to wet

you, which arises

from the fall of the Water after the River

is

fallen.

Several parts

of it are conveyed

by aqueducts

into the Town for

severall

uses;

as namely

148

one part for the Brass works,

where You may observe, that the Waeer

blowes

the fire, not by moving

the Bellowes

(which is

common) but by affording

the Wind; an

other part of it is

carried

to the <EM>Villa d' Este</EM> where there

is

a curious Palace and most curious

Gardens

with all sorts

of Ingenious Water Works

and other ornaments,

as statues

<EM>&amp;c,</EM> belonging

to Gardens.

Amongst other things

there are several Artificial Birds,

that sing their natural Notes

by the help of the Water. There

is

an

Organ that plays

sweetly,

moved

only by the Water, which also furnisheth

it Wind. The <EM>Girandola</EM>

is

considerable, where the

water rises

in a gross Body very High, and the

ayr

being

Artificially

mixed

therewith, makes

a noice

that exactly

imitats

Thunder. <EM>Tivoli</EM> is

some eighteen or twentie

Miles

distant from <EM>Rome</EM> You may

easily

go from <EM>Rome</EM> and see all

things

considerable there, &amp; returne

the same day to <EM>Rome,</EM> unless You please rather to

goe

to <EM>Frescati,</EM> which is

a most delicious litle

Toun

about twelve Miles

distant from <EM>Rome,</EM> standing

upon the side of a Hill, from whence

149

in clear weather You may easily

discover <EM>Rome.</EM> The

Place is

beautifi'd with many delicat <EM>Villa</EM>'s about it,

amongst which the most considerable are, first, the

<EM>Belvidere</EM> belonging

now to the <EM>Principe Pamphilio,</EM> the water

works

whereof are esteemed

the best in <EM>Italy:</EM> There

is

a Centaur that

Winds

a Horne

by the help of the Water, with that Loudness, that it can be

heard

at six or seven Miles

distance. There

is

a low Room which they call the <EM>Apollo,</EM> at the end of

which <EM>Apollo</EM> sits

upon the Top of an

artificial <EM>Parnassus.</EM> with the nine

Muses

about him,

he with his Harp, and they with their

severall

Instruments

of Musick,

which play by the help of the Water, which

is

convoyed

under ground and is

not seen

within the Room. About the

middle of the Room there is

a little hole, out of which the Wind

(occasioned

by the motion of the Water underneath)

comeing

furth, hath

so much strength as to support a wooden Ball, of the bigness

of a Tennes

ball, at half a ell's distance and more from the floor,

without ever letting

it fall

150

to the ground. <EM>2ly.</EM> At half a

miles

distance from

<EM>Frescati</EM> are the Ruins

of <EM>Cicero</EM>'s

<EM>Tusculanum,</EM> and <EM>Lucullo</EM>'s country House; as

also a curious <EM>villa</EM> called

<EM>monte Dragone,</EM> where the House

is

well adorned

with Paintings,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> and the Gardens

with water works.

</P>

<P><EM>3ly</EM> If You desire not to

Returne

to <EM>Rome</EM> first, You may

goe

directly

from hence to <EM>Castello gondolfo,</EM> which

is

about <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ive

miles

distant from <EM>Frescati,</EM> and fourteen from <EM>Rome.</EM>

It is

a most delicious

Countrey

House of the Popes,

To which he uses

to retire some Moneths

in the Summer, for the good Air's sake, it hes the Prospect of a

most delicat lake, encompased with

Hills,

that are all shadowed

with Trees,

where amongst other pleasures

you will not want that of Herbarizing.</P>

<P>

Being

returned

to <EM>Rome</EM> you may make another little Journey with your

convenience to

<EM>Ostia,</EM> which is

some twelve miles

distant from <EM>Rome</EM> doun

the River <EM>Tyber,</EM>

it was

of old the great Harbour for all the

Ships

and Gallies

that belonged

151

City and Empyre,

cutt

out as it seems

by Art, but now thro' long neglect

filled

up and useless. Having

seen

all and dyned,

you may returne

before night to <EM>Rome;</EM> it will be fit you be at the

pains

to make another Journey to <EM>Caprarolla,</EM> one of the

noblest

Palaces

in <EM>Italy,</EM> built

by the famous Architect <EM>Vignoli,</EM>

by order of Cardinal <EM>Alexander Farnese.</EM> It

belonges

to the Duke of <EM>Parma.</EM> It

is

distant from <EM>Rome</EM> Miles

It is

in <EM>figure, pentagone,</EM> having

five very High and equal faces,

with a Court perfectly

round in the middle, as likewise are the

Galleries

and Corredor's about it. Morover

there is

almost as much lodging

below ground as above. The Hangings,

Statues,

Pictures,

as also the Gardens,

Fountains,

and other embellishments,

doe well sute

the magnificence of the Palace.

</P>

<P>

Having

seen

<EM>Rome</EM> and the Places

about it. It will be fit to make

the Voyage of <EM>Naples.</EM> The

Months

of <EM>April</EM> and <EM>October</EM>

are most convenient for this Journey,

the heat being

too great in Summer,

152

and the Snow and Raine

troublesome in Winter.

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Rome to Naples.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Miles.</LI>

<EM>Marin<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

</EM>

<LI>12</LI>

<EM>Velitre, </EM>

<LI>08.</LI>

<EM>Sezza </EM>

<LI>15</LI>

<EM>Biperno,</EM>

<LI> 04</LI>

<EM>Terrazina,</EM>

<LI> 10.</LI>

<EM>Portella,</EM>

<LI> 03.</LI>

<EM>Fondi,</EM>

<LI> 05.</LI>

<EM>Itri,

</EM>

<LI>05.</LI>

<EM>Mola.</EM>

<LI> 04.</LI>

<EM>Tragetto, </EM>

<LI>10.</LI>

</UL>

<UL>

<BR><H4>Pass the River Garrigliano.</H4>

<EM>Sessa,</EM>

<LI> 07.</LI>

<EM>Carionole,</EM>

<LI> 04.</LI>

<EM>Capua,</EM>

<LI> 12.</LI>

<EM>Auersa,</EM>

<LI> 07.</LI>

<EM>Naples </EM>

<LI>08.</LI>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>114.</LI>

</UL>

<P>

153

As You go out at the Port St. <EM>Gioua<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ni,</EM>

all along the <EM>Campania</EM> on every side of the High-way,

You will meet with many Ruins

of Ancient Burial-Places

for several Miles

from the City.

</P>

<P><EM>Velitre;</EM> is

an

Ancient City of the <EM>Volsci,</EM> much

famed

also for the Parents

of <EM>Octavius Augustus,</EM> who

were

Originaly

of this Place. Upon the Way from <EM>Veletri</EM> to

<EM>Sezza,</EM> upon the Hill-side

under <EM>Sarninetta,</EM> there

are some Ancient Ruins

supposed

to be the <EM>Tres Taberna<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

of which St. <EM>Luke</EM> speaks

in the 28. Chapter of <EM>the Acts

of the Apostles.</EM></P>

<P><EM>Sezza,</EM> formerly

<EM>Setia;</EM> was

much commended

for its

Wine, whence that of <EM>Juvenal.</EM></P>

<BR>---Tunc illa time cum pocula sume&#0183; Gemmata &amp; lato

Setinum ardebit in auro.<BR>

<P>

<EM>Piperno;</EM> in Latin <EM>Privernum;</EM> and the

Inhabitants

<EM>Privernati;</EM> near to this

154

Place, <EM>Iris Florentina,</EM>

grows

abundantly.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Terracina;</EM> was

Anciently

called

<EM>Auxur,</EM> in the Language

of the <EM>Volsci,</EM> of whom

this was

the <EM>Metropolis. Strabo</EM>

sayeth

that it was

called

<EM>Trachina, quasi Aspera</EM> from the Rockiness of the Hill

upon which it

is

Placed;

altho'

the Town be Ancient, it is

not very considerable, it is

the last Place of the Ecclesiastick

Estate

towards

<EM>Naples;</EM> Passengers

use to Dine here at a pittiful

<EM>Inn</EM> without the Town, where there

is

no manner of Furniture, but VVood

to make Fire: it not being

secure for any Body to live in it, because of the

Turks

that often Land here, and take what they can meet with.

VVhen

the People that keep the House see any

Strangers

Arrive, instantly

they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town. The Sea

comes

very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town

stands,

and on that side which is

towards

<EM>Naples,</EM> the Rock

is

precipitious, and betwixt it and the Sea,

leaves

but a very narrow and strait

Passage, which one Man

155

may Guarde

against a Hundred. <EM>Fondi</EM>

is

the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of

<EM>Naples;</EM> here you must give notice to the

Officers

appointed

for that purpose of your intended

Journey for <EM>Naples,</EM> and cause

registrat

your Name, together with the marks

of your Horse, that he may be the better

known

when you return, to be the same that you

brought

along with you from <EM>Rome,</EM> or otherways you will not

miss to be challenged

upon your return, and stopt,

untill

you can produce a Certificat

that he is

the very same you brought

into the Kingdom with you. There

being

a General Prohibition, the

observance whereof

is

Strictly

lookt

to, against carrieing

Horses

or Mares

out of the Kingdom, into any foreign part, least the

breede

of them,

which is

esteemed

amongst the best in <EM>Europe,</EM> should become

common to other

Nations.

Notwithstanding of

this severity, sometimes

with credit, and

sometimes

with a little Money, a Man may obtain permission for the

156

Transporting

of one or more, either Horses

or Mares.

</P>

<P><EM>Mola,</EM> is

one of the most pleasant places

in rhe World; being

close upon the Sea side, and but a little way from

<EM>Gaieta,</EM> to which you may go either by Sea or Land. It

is

likeways

hard by the ruins

of the Ancient City <EM>Formiae,</EM> where <EM>Cicero</EM>

had

his <EM>Villa Formiana.</EM> The place

abounds

with many plants,

and great Varietie

of the choisest

Fruits;

especially

the Agrumi, such as Citrons,

Oranges,

Limons &amp;c, of all sorts.</P>

<P>

If ye please to go to <EM>Gaieta,</EM> it

is

worth the while: It stands

at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that

runs

out into the Sea, from the main-Land about three

miles,

and by that means

becomes

peninsule, and formeth

on the side towards

<EM>Rome,</EM> betwixt it and <EM>Terracina,</EM> that

<EM>Sinus Gaitanus,</EM> about

twelve miles

in length. The Town is

pleasantly

Situated

and strongly.

There is

a great Rock hard by, which is

rent from Top to Bottom, which they say,

happened

when the Saviour of the

157

World Suffered

upon the Cross. There is

excellent Herbarizing

all the way betwixt it and

<EM>Mola.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>Trajetto</EM> is

a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of

<EM>Minturnae</EM> stood,

where there is

yet to be seen

an

Amphitheatre almost intire,

and the remains

of a great Aqueduct: It was

amongst the

Marishes

near to <EM>Minturnae,</EM>

that <EM>C. Marius</EM> did

hide himself, when he fled

from his Enemies;

whence that of <EM>Juvenal,</EM>

<BR>

<BR>Exilium &amp; carcer Minturnarum{que} Paludes,

<BR>Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine

Panis.

<BR>

</P>

<P>You must pass at this place the

River <EM>Garigliano,</EM>

called

<EM>Li<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>is</EM>

Anciently.</P>

<P>

<EM>Capua,</EM> is

a new City standing

upon the side of the River <EM>Vulturnus,</EM> and some two

miles

from it, the Ruins

of the Old famous <EM>Capua</EM> which in the Old

<EM>Romans</EM>

Time, was

esteemed

one of the most delicious Places

in the VVorld.

There are yet Vestiges of the Gates

of the City, of a Theatre, of a great many sumptuous

Temples,

Cisternes

under gronnd, and a great many

other

158

things;

that evidently

show it to have been

a magnificent City. The Country

from <EM>Vulturnus</EM> to <EM>Naples,</EM>

is

called

the <EM>Campania Felice,</EM> and

is

indeed the fertilest

soyle

and bautifullest Country that

my Eyes

ever beheld.

</P>

<P><EM>Aversa</EM> is

a new City, extructed

out of the Ruins

of <EM>Atella,</EM> It is

distant 8 Miles

from <EM>Naples,</EM> and famed

for a kind of Wine called

<EM>Asprin<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>.</EM></P>

<P>

That way which leades

from <EM>Rome</EM> to <EM>Naples,</EM>

was

Anciently

called

<EM>Via Appia,</EM> from <EM>Appius Claudius</EM> the Censor,

who caused

Pave this way from <EM>Rome,</EM> just to <EM>Capua.</EM> It

begins

at the Port now called

St. <EM>Sebastian,</EM> but Anciently

<EM>Porta Capena,</EM> from the <EM>Capenati</EM> a

people of <EM>Latium,</EM> to

which that way did

lead. The <EM>Via Appia</EM> is

of that breadth that one <EM>Chariot</EM> may

easily

pass another. The Emperour

<EM>Trajan</EM> did

renew it, and continue the Pavement even to

<EM>Brindici,</EM>

drying

the marishes,

plaining

the Hills,

and filling

up the Valleyes.

By this way Anciently

did

pass the greatest

part of the Triumphs;

whence it

159

was

called

<EM>Regina viarum:</EM> whence that of <EM>Papinius;</EM>

</P>

<P>Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum.</P>

<P>

Altho'

this way be Ruined

in many places,

yet it is

wonderfull

to see, in how great perfection a great deal of it

continues.

Without doubt it has

been

a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length, and

Breadth so well paved,

with Quadrangular Stones,

that even to this Day (altho'

it be of common &amp; frequent Passage)

continueth

as intire

as if it were

newly

done.

Upon both sides

of this way, as far as <EM>Capua,</EM> there are a great many

Ancient Sepulchres;

many whereof are altogether ruined,

and some almost intire,

as yet; in one of these Sepulchres,

in the Reign of <EM>Alexander</EM>

VI. (as <EM>Volateranus</EM> tells)

the Body of a Delicat young VVoman,

was

found altogether intire

in a Marble Chist. She was

of incomparable beautie

having

her long Flaxen Hair drawn

together upon her Head with a

Circle of Gold. The Body did

almost swim in a mervellous kind of

Liquor

and had

a

160

burning

Lamp at the Feet

thereof, which the Air, coming

in at the opening

of the Sepulchre, did

instantly

extinguish. The Body (as

did

appear by the Letters

graven

upon the place) had

lyen there thirteen Hundred Years.

Some have been

of Opinion that it was

the Body of <EM>Tulliola,</EM> the

dearly

Beloved

Daughter of <EM>Cicero.</EM> It

was

presented

in its

integrity to the Conservators

of <EM>Rome,</EM> and for some Days

keept

in the Capitol as a singular curiosity; but <EM>Pope

Alexder</EM>

coming

to understand it, caused

it to be thrown

into the <EM>Tyber.</EM>

</P>

<P>

I must not omit to tell you, that there

is

some incommoditie

in this Journey both as to Dyeting

and Lodging;

and sometimes

there is

perill

from the Banditi; But he that

will gather Roses,

must not be affraid

to prick his Fingers:

Besides,

that danger is

but sometimes,

and you may probably

find the way clear, especially,

if the <EM>Vice-Roy</EM> be a stirring

Active Man, as it often happens:

For then the Banditi will hardly

dare to

161

come so far down from the Hills&#0183;

as the <EM>Via appia,</EM> or High-way to <EM>Naples.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Naples</EM> was

Anciently

called

<EM>Parthenope,</EM> from

one of the <EM>Sirens,</EM>

Buried

in this place, (who as the Fables

say) Drowned

her self for Grief, that She could not Charm

<EM>Vlysses</EM>

and his Companions.

Hence <EM>Silius lib:</EM> 12.</P>

<P>

<BR>

<BR>Sirenum dedit una tuum memorab<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

nomen.

<BR>Parthenope muris Acheloias, aequore cujus

<BR>Regnavere d<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>l

cantus, cum dulce per undas,

<BR>Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis.

<BR>

It was

built

Closs upon the Sea, at the foot of most pleasant

Hills;

First built

by the <EM>Cumani</EM> or Inhabitants

of <EM>Cuma;</EM> who being

taken

with the sweetness of the Air &amp; Pleasantness of the Place;

did

daily increase in number; insomuch that the <EM>Cumani</EM>

that lived

at <EM>Cuma,</EM> took

a Resolution utterly

to Ruin <EM>Parthen<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>pe</EM>

162

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>east their

own City should become deso<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>at.

But it being

Ruined,

there came

so great a Pestilence upon <EM>Cuma,</EM> as

carried

away Multitudes,

and having

consulted

the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality; it

was

answered

that this fate had

come upon them

for the Ruine

of <EM>Parthenope;</EM>

and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease, they

should first restore it,

whence with all diligence they went

about the Restauration thereof, and

called

it <EM>Neapolis,</EM> that is

to say the new City. The sweetness of the Air, &amp; delicacy

of the Country about is

so great, that many Emperours

and <EM>Roman Senators</EM>

being

wearied

with the Wars,

and weightiness of Government, did

repair to this place, that they might live

pleasantly

&amp; Peaceably,

&amp; give themselves to the Study of

Letters;

amongst which were

<EM>Virgil, T. Livius, Horatius, Claudianus

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

&amp; a great many more: At this very

present it

is

no less frequented

by the Nobility and

Gentrie

of the whole Kingdom, who for the most part have their own

Palaces

and pass the greatest

part of the

163

Year here; so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few

Cities

in the World more considerable than this. I think it

is

for this Reason, that it is

commonly

called

<EM>Napoli la Gentile:</EM> Nor

is

it to be passed

by, that it gives

name to a Kingdom; which is

not very Ordinary.

</P>

<P>

The City is

big and sumptuously

built

from the Sea to these pleasant Hills

about it. It

is

very well fortified

with strong Walls

&amp; Castles,

especially

since the dayes

of <EM>Charles</EM> V. who built

the Castle of St. <EM>Elme</EM>

and called

it <EM>la Brilia,</EM> that

is,

Bridle; intending

to make it so, to the mutinous Humour of that people, and it

may be alluding

to the <EM>Armes</EM>

of the City, which is

an

unbridled

Horse; the exact emblem of the disposition

of that people, as witness the innumerable

Tumults

and revolts

both of old and late Years

made

by them.

I confess there is

no small occasion given

them

by the severe domination of Strangers

over them;

and it is

strange that having

so many brave and valourous

Men

amongst them,

they

164

should more readily

agree to submit their necks

to the Yoak

of a Stranger, than to the sweet Scepter of a Native of their

own number and Nation. It is

thought the great emulation, (which the

<EM>Spaniards</EM>

as wisely,

as industriously

keep up to the hight) amongst the

Princes,

who are but too numerous for the

extent of the Kingdom,

is

the great cause of their unhappiness.

</P>

<P>

You may take notice of these particulars

within the Town. <EM>1ly.</EM> The

Churches;

of which this City hath

a greater

number, than any other of

its

bigness in <EM>Europe.</EM> Amongst the rest, that of the

<EM>Annunciata,</EM> is

so Rich; that the Rent of the Hospitall

thereof is

capable to entertain, 5000 Poor, part whereof are

Children

found. St. <EM>Chiana,</EM> together with the

Monastrie

of Nuns

consisting

of 400 with as many servants,

is

very glorious; It

was

Built

by <EM>Agnes</EM> of <EM>Spain</EM> Queen to King

<EM>Robert.</EM> There are many curious

Sepulchres

to be seen

here of Kings,

Queens,

and their Children.

In the Church of St. <EM>Dominico</EM>

is

to be seen

165

the Image of the Crucifix, that

said

to St. <EM>Thomas Aquinas; bene scripsisti do me&#0183;

Thoma.</EM> In the Church of the

<EM>Frat<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

di monte Oliueto,</EM>

the true Pictures

of <EM>Ferdinand,</EM> the first and the second; and

<EM>Alfonsus</EM> the First; both

Kings

of <EM>Naples,</EM> are so Admirably

well done

that they seem to be living.

There is

likewise Buried

here <EM>Alexander ab Alexandro,</EM>

who composed

that learned

work <EM>Genialium dierum.</EM> The Church

called

the <EM>Domo,</EM> hath

a Chapell

composed

of Marble, Jasper, Gold and Brass; wherein

is

keept

the Head of St. <EM>Gennaro,</EM>

and a little Phiole of his Blood all

together

fixed,

which being

approached

to the Head of the St. <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>immediatly

begins

to boyll, dissolves

and becomes

clear. The most ancient of all the

Churches

is

that of St. <EM>Paul,</EM> keept

now by the Jesuits;

It was

formerly

the Temple of <EM>Castor</EM>

and <EM>Pollux.</EM>

</P>

<P>

2. The Religious Houses

or Convents;

of which there are so great a number, that the

<EM>Dominicans</EM>

alone have seventeen. The Chartrous convent

stands

upon the

166

Hill, a little beneath the Castle St.

Elm<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>' It

hath

the pleasantest

Situation that I ever beheld;

one may discover from it the whole City and

Suburbs

of <EM>Naples,</EM> a great part of the <EM>Campania

Felice,</EM> the <EM>monte Vesuvio,</EM> all the Bay of

<EM>Naples,</EM> the Island of <EM>Capreae,</EM> the Hill

<EM>Posilipo, Puteoli,

Baii,

Cuma, &amp;c.</EM> The Cloister of the convent

is

all of white Marble, and in short, both the Church and whole

Convent are altogether

Magnificent.

</P>

<P><EM>3ly.</EM> The Hospitals;

which are about twelve in number; amongst which, that of the

<EM>Annunciata</EM> and of the <EM>Incueabili</EM> are the most

considerable. It is

said

that they Marry 665. Maids

every Year, and the least portion they give with any

is

24 Ducats,

and the greatest

300.</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly.</EM> The Castles;

of which there are 4. The Castle <EM>d'Ovo</EM>

stands

within the Sea upon a Rock, built

of an

Oval Figure by <EM>Willam</EM> III. a <EM>Norman.</EM> The

Castle <EM>Nov<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

was

built

by <EM>Charles</EM> the first, Brother to St.

<EM>Lewes,</EM>

but it was

<EM>Ferdinand</EM> of <EM>Aragon</EM>

that fortified

it so well. It is

of a quadrangular figure, Built

of polished

167

Stone as hard as Marble; it hath

foure

great Bastions,

and five Towres,

together with strong

ramparts,

and deep Ditches,

which the Sea water filleth:

It is

ordinarly

keept

by a Garison

of the <EM>Spaniards</EM>

Consisting

of 500. There is

a great Magazin of all kinds

of Armes

&amp; Engines

for War keept

within it. In the middle of it stands

the Governours

Palace, capable to Lodge a King. It

is

excellently

furnished

with Hangings

of silk and gold, many excellent

Statues

and Pictures.

Amongst other fine things

there is

a Cabinet furnished

with all sorts

of curiosities.

The Castle of St. <EM>Elm</EM> stands

upon the top of a Rock, commanding

all about it; It's Garison

consists

of 250. <EM>Spainards.</EM>

It was

built

by King <EM>Robert</EM> the first, Son to <EM>Charles</EM> II.

but afterwards

farr

better fortified

with great Bastions

by the Emperour

<EM>Charles</EM> V. who called

it <EM>La Brillia di Napoli.</EM>

</P>

<P>

The Castle <EM>Capuano</EM> (so

called

from it's situation which is

near to the Port of <EM>Capuano</EM>)

is

rather a Palace than a Fortress where the

Magistrats

of the City,

168

and Officers

of justice keep their Assemblies.

</P>

<P>5. The Palaces;

whereof there are a very great number, amongst which that of the

Viceroy; That of the Prince of <EM>Salern&#0183;</EM> which the

Jesuits

now possess, are very considerable. The Palace of the Duke of

<EM>Gravina</EM> is

most <EM>superb.</EM> That of the

<EM>Carafi</EM>

is

adorned

with abundance of excellent

statues

of Marble and Brass. There be many other

worthie

to be seen:

as also the beautifull

Garden of <EM>Don Garcia di Toledo,</EM> which

is

full of Grotto's, Fountains,

Water works,

statues

<EM>&amp;c.</EM></P>

<P>6. The Harbour, or Sea Port; which

is

fortified

with a Superb mole, first made

by <EM>Charles</EM> II. And then very much

mended

by <EM>Alfonsus</EM> the first, for the

greater

security of the Harbour.</P>

<P>7. The Publick

Places,

the streets,

&amp; the avenues

of the Town.</P>

<P>

8. The Suburbs;

which are seven in number; amongst which the most

considerable,

is

that which leads

<EM>A la grotio di Posilipo;</EM> near to the entry of which

<EM>Grotto</EM> stands

<EM>la mergelina,</EM> looking

into

169

the Bay; it was

sometimes

the House of pleasure of <EM>Sanazarius</EM> that famous Poet,

who gave

it to the Religious men

called

<EM>Servi.</EM> This Suburb is

no less than two miles

in length from the City to the <EM>Grotto</EM> of

<EM>Po<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lipo.</EM>

The Circuit of the Town and Suburbs

is

counted

to be about six

miles:

and the Inhabitants

to be about 30<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>000.

Soules.

<EM>Statius Papinius</EM> and

<EM>Jacobus Sanazarius;</EM> both

excellent

Poets;

together with many other great Virtuosi

were

borne

in this City.

</P>

<P>

It will be worth the while also to take a view of the

Book-sellers

Shops,

there being

many good Books

Printed

here which hardly

or not all can be found with us; as for example, the

works

of <EM>Baptista Porta,</EM> whereof the

Impressions

at <EM>Naples</EM> were

both the first and fairest,

and the Cutts

for the most part Tailledouce. The

works

of <EM>Fabius Columna,</EM> which are almost out of Print, and

especially

his <EM>Phytobasanos.</EM> It may likewise happen that there

are some new peeces

emitted

which will never come to our hands

170

for at least, not tell after a great while. It

is

likely too that You may meet with many other

Books,

that in other places

You had

sought

in vain for: there are many learned

and Curious men

in this City, and they are as mortall

here as elsewhere, and as ordinary a thing it

is

to sell their Books.

</P>

<P>You will likewise meet with a great many

curiosities

of all sorts,

espccially from the <EM>Levant:</EM> some

naturall;

as stones,

shells,

Animalls,

or parts

of them,

fruits

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> Others artificiall;

some of Leather, as Purses,

Letter-cases,

cups,

and a great many things

of that kind, usualy

brought

from <EM>Allepo</EM> and <EM>Constantinople:</EM>

Some of Silk either alone, or mingled

with gold and silver; as Sashes,

Girdles,

Cravats,

Night-Caps,

wastcoats,

stockings,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> Outlandish Armes,

as Cimetres, Poyniards,

Bows

and Arrows,

with severall

sorts

of fire Armes.

Medalls

antient

and modern: Intalio'<EM>s</EM> Chameo'<EM>s &amp;c.</EM> But in

these You must take some heed, that You mistake not the modern

for antique.</P>

<P>

171

Having

well viewed

and considered

the City and all things

in it. It will be necessary to see those

things

that are considerable

about it. And first the Hill <EM>Posilipus,</EM>

famous for it's Gardens

and Houses

of Pleasure, for it's Fruits

and Wines,

especially

the <EM>greco di Posilipo.</EM> But that which

is

most Admirable in this Hill is

the Passage cut quite thro' it. By <EM>Cocceius</EM> of

whom

<EM>Pontanus</EM> saith,

<EM>Nescio an

is

fuerit M. Cocceius

Nerua

Augusti Avus, qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulit{que}

m<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ximam

Architecturae Laudem.</EM> Howeve<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

it is

certain he must have been

a man of great Riches

that durst

undertake so great a work, at his

oun

expence.

It is

called

<EM>la Grotta di Posilipo,</EM> and

is

very near a mile in length, cutt

thro' the Rock. As for the breadth of it, one Coach may pass

another with ease. And for the Hight, I believe a man on

Horseback will hardly

touch the Roof of it with a Lance; At the two

ends

it is

some what higher

than in the middle, I think of purpose that the light might

enter the farther. When You enter at the one end You

172

will very hardly

perceive the light in the other end, but as You advance it

begins

to appear by little and little. In the Just middle of it, on

that side which is

next the Sea, there is

a little Chapell,

where a Lamp is

keept

continually

burning,

but it is

more out of Devotion than for any light it

gives:

betwixt the Chapell

and the end, as it were

about the middle on every side of the

Chapell

there is

a hole cutt

thro' the Hill which serveth

for a window, but it

gives

little light. It is

exceeding

dusty, especeially if there be many

Horses

Ryding

together altho'

it be paven

with stone, because there comes

no Rain to wash it, and none takes

pains

to make it clean. Those that goe

from <EM>Naples</EM> to <EM>Pozzuolo</EM> if they hear any

Horses

Coaches

or Carts

coming

toward them,

least they should stop the way, or unawares Justle one

another, they use to cry aloud <EM>dal mare,</EM> which when

the others hear, they cry in like manner <EM>dal monte</EM>

and so those that goe

from <EM>Naples</EM> take that side of the <EM>Grotto,</EM>

which is

next the Sea and these that go to it take the side

173

next the Hill; and so avoid all

incumbrance.

At the mouth of the <EM>Grotto,</EM> upon the top thereof

is

the famous Sepulchre of <EM>Virgil.</EM> There

is

little remaning

of it now except a few Ruins

of an

old Brick wall in the middle whereof

anciently

there did

stand nine small Pillars,

which sustained

a Marble U<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

in which were

contained

the Poets

ashes,

with this Distich.

<BR>

<BR>Mantua me genuit, Calabri

rapuere, tenet nunc

<BR>Parthonope; cecini pascua, rura, duces.

<BR>

</P>

<P>Not far from this Tomb, is

the Sepulchre of that famous

Poet <EM>Sanazarius,</EM> in a Place

called

<EM>Mergelina,</EM> a <EM>Villa</EM>

given

him

by King <EM>Frederick,</EM> where he

built

a Church in Honour of the BIessed Virgin, and

composed

that incomparable <EM>Poem de partu Virginis.</EM> He

is

Buried

within the Church in a Tomb of pure Marble upon which his statue

done

to the life standeth with this Epitaph by Cardinal

<EM><FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>embo.</EM></P>

<BR>Da Sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni Sineerus, musa

proximus, ut tumulo.<BR>

<P>

174

There are many other excellent Statues,

Base Relieves,

and Pictures

within this Church well worthie

the seeing.

</P>

<P>When you go to <EM>Pozzuolo,</EM> you must take a Guide with

you to show you all the considerable

Places.

It will be a good dayes

Journey because You have many Things

to see and consider, and therefore you must part early in the

Morning from <EM>Naples.</EM> The first thing you will meet with

upon the Way, (but you turne

out of the common way) is

the <EM>Lago di Agnano</EM> at the side of which are the Natural

stoves

of St. <EM>German,</EM> which are certain little

roomes,

where the hot and Sulphureous Vapors

entering

from the Ground quickly

provoke sweating,

and is

commended

in severall

diseases.</P>

<P>

At a little distance from thence,

upon the side of the Lake

is

the <EM>Grotto de I Cani.</EM> It

is

a little hole dug out of the side of a Brae where two or three

Persons

scarcely

can stand. The Floore

of it is

ordinarily

wet and dirtie,

out of which there riseth

a Poisonous Vapour,

175

in form of Smoak,

but it ascendeth

not above a Foot from the Ground. They use to

trie

it with Torches

and Dogs,

which you must carrie

from <EM>Naples</EM> with you, for you will not find

them

upon the Place. As for the Torches,

the guide lights

two, and then reaches

one of them

to the Smoak,

which instantly

extinguishes,

as if it were

blown

out by the force of Powder: Then he

lights

it at the other, and so renews

the experiment as oft as

you please, keeping

always

one lighted,

untill

your Curiositie

be satisfied;

as for the Dogs

he holds

their Nose into the Vapour, and

instantly

they begin to fetch their Breath thick, and in a very little

space are quite suffocated.

If ye let them

ly long, they will never recover, but if ye take

them

immediately

when they are fallen

down and throw them

into the Lake, they will by little and little

returne

to live again. I guesse

this Vapour to be so much like the

Damps,

that are sometimes

found in our Coal-pitts,

only, with us, they are soon dissipated,

but here this lasteth

176

continuallie,

and (which is

yet more strange) in an

open Air; but it may be the openness of the Air

is

the Reason why the Vapour ascendeth

no higher.

I remember one of our Dogs

did

recover without being

thrown

into the Lake, which makes

me believe, that it is

not any peculiar Vertue

in the water (as is

commonly

said)

that restoreth

them

to life, but only the freedom of the Air, with the help

whereof Nature reinforceth

it self, the life being

yet not quite extinct, which

is

cleared

by this, that if they lye

any considerable time in the cave, neither Air nor water will

recover them.

It is

very True that, That which was

thrown

in the Lake recovered

much sooner,

and better: whereas the other remained

paralytick,

and impotent to move his hinder

quarters:

(tho' he could Sit upon his foremost

Leggs

and bark&#0183;) for almost two

houres

thereafter. It seems

there is

something in this Vapour or Damp that

coagulats

or fixes

the Spirits,

that they cannot move or circulat

in the Body.

</P>

<P>

177

From hence you take the Way to <EM>Pazzuolo,</EM> near to

which you will meet with a Place

called

<EM>la Solfatara,</EM> it is

a large plaine,

Oval in Figure, representing

a Theatre, it

is

above 1200 Foot in length and 1000 in breadth, it

is

compassed

about with white &amp; high Hills,

from which in many Places,

arise Clouds

of smoak,

of a Sulphureous smell,

rolling

up into the Air impetuously,

with great crackling.

Some of these spiracles

are very small, so that it is

a Pleasure, to see the

Smoake

ascend, by a direct line of the bigness of cane, and

sometimes

smaller

by much. About these spiracles

you will see Quantitie

of the Flowres

of Brimstone sublimed;

but I suspect the internal use of

them,

because of the mixture of

other minerals

wherewith they may be infected:

But for external uses,

I am

not so doubtfull,

as also of the Spirit which by the help of convenient

Glasses

might be gathered

in aboundance

from these spiracles.

When you consider the plaine

you will wonder to hear it sound under your

Horse-feet,

as you were

Riding

over a large Floore,

which is

caused

178

by the Vacuitie

underneath. All the Hills

about abound in veines

of Allum

whereof some is

scissile; nitre, Sulphur, Vitriol

&amp; Salt Armoniac. The Vitriol

is

of a Delicat blew

Colour and much finer

than that which is

commonly

called

<EM>Roman-Vitriol.</EM>

It will be worth your while to take particular notice of these

minerals,

how they are extracted

out of their mines,

what differences

there are of every Species, how they are

mixed

with one another sometimes,

by what Art they are purified,

and with what Instruments,

and to what use they are put. I would have you take a Parcel

of every sort and bring along with you, which you may box up

at <EM>Naples</EM> with Cotton, and send before you to

<EM>Rome.</EM>

</P>

<P>

Having

done

these things,

you come to <EM>Pozzuolo;</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Puteoli.</EM> The City is

now much Ruined;

but was

Stately and Rich of Old. <EM>Cicero</EM>

writing

to <EM>Atticus</EM>

saith

<EM>quid potui non videre cum per Emporeum puteolanum iter

facerem;</EM> which is

Chieflly to be understood

of that part of the Town, which

stood

upon the

179

Shoare

where the Arti<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ans,

and chiefly

the Goldsmiths,

had

their Shops,

whereof there

remaines

little now except the Ruins,

and Vestiges: And yet beneath the Church <EM>di Giesu

Maria,</EM> possessed

by the Dominicans,

when the Wind dryves out the Sea, they do find

sometimes

severall

Precious Stones,

some cutt,

some uncutt; and if you be Curious to

enquire

you will find People that make a Trade to sell such

things

amongst other Anticails. I remember there

came

severall

of these Persons

to our Lodging-House,

with Medals,

<EM>Intaglio's, Lucerne

Antiche</EM> &amp;c. But I found many of

them

to be cheats,

and but moderne,

brought

thither from <EM>Naples</EM> and other

Places,

of purpose to cheat Strangers,

who are ordinarly

more Curious than knowing

of these things;

As for Medals,

were

they never so Ancient, they are little worth unless they be

well preserved,

and the Characters

and impressions

easie

to be discerned.

And for Intaglio's unless the Figure be good&#0183; and well

done,

and the Stone entire and unbroken, they are not

180

worth much. The great Church now

dedicated

to St. <EM>Proclus</EM> was

anciently

dedicated

to <EM>Octavianus Augustus.</EM> It

is

a Sumptuous Fabrick

of great square Marble Stones;

serving

for the whole thickness of the Wall, with great and high

<EM>Corinthian</EM> Pillar's, and other

Excellent

Ornaments

of Architecture.

</P>

<P>

Here are also be seen

many Ruins

of great antiquitie,

amongst which she Gardens

of <EM>Cicero</EM> famous for his Academy, where he

wrote

his <EM>Quaestiones Academicae.</EM>

But this City, in diverse ages

has

suffered

so much by the tumults

of Wars,

as also by the eruptions

of fire and earthquakes,

that it is

wonderfull

there should yet remain any vestiges of

Antiquitie.

The Soil about it is

most fertile and fruitfull,

and nature produceth

here many Plants

of it's oun

accord, which in other places

are kept

in Gardens,

not without care: among others I remember to have

seen

the <EM>Ricinus</EM> or <EM>Palma Christi</EM> not only

growing

wild but out-living

that Winter, and continuing

fresh green and strong in the month of <EM>March;</EM>

altho'

181

it be an

<EM>Annual</EM> Plant with us, that can

hardly

be raised

upon a hot bed.

</P>

<P>

You may have your Horse at <EM>Pozzuolo,</EM> and

hyre

a boat to cross the Bay for seeing

of the following

things,

And 1. hard by the City the remains

of that <EM>Superb mole,</EM> which

having

been

ruined

by storme

was

afterwards

Restored

by the Emperour

<EM>Antoninus:</EM> But at present all that

Remains

is

12. or 13. great Pillars

built

of Brick and stones

of vast bigness. They appear so many

towrs,

over which there are yet remaining,

but half Ruined,

some Arches.

This fashion of Moles

seem to be the best, because the

Pillars

and Arches

are sufficient to break the water and secure the

Ships

within, and by letting

part of the water enter betwixt the

Pillars

lessens

it's violence, so that the Pillars

suffer not half so much, as if they

were

one continued

wall. The Emperour

<EM>Caligulae</EM> built

a bridge of boats

from <EM>Pozzuolo to Baii</EM>

upon which he went

in Triumph first on Horsback

and then in Chariot, but it was

of small continuance and served

only to be the subject of discourse in

182

future ages.

Having

passed

these Pillars.

Yov put ashore hard by the <EM>Lacus

Lucrinus</EM> which as some

said

was

so called

<EM>a Lucro</EM> from the profit which it

yeilded

to the <EM>Romans</EM>

by the great abundance of excellent Fish

especialie

<EM>Oysters,</EM>

which were

esteemed

before any other in <EM>Italy:</EM> Whence <EM>Martial</EM> to

express the Gluttony of a

certain Person.

</P>

<P>Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino.</P>

<P>

But there is

little water in it now, it being

almost dryed

up by that most Terrible

eruption of the <EM>Solfatara</EM> which

happned

in the Year 1538. the 29. of <EM>September</EM> two

hours

after Sun set, the whole countrey

about having

been

troubled

for two Years

before with Earthquakes:

At which time there burst out in one night so great a

quantitie

of fire, Stones,

Pumecks, and ashes,

that near to the <EM>monte Barbaro</EM>

formerly

called

<EM>mons Gaurus</EM> it made

another Hill, near three miles

in compass, and almost as high as the <EM>monte Barbaro.</EM>

The south part of it looks

to the Sea, the north reaches

to the <EM>Lacus Avernus,</EM> &amp; on the East it

is

183

joined

with the foot of <EM>Monte Barbaro.</EM> It

is

called

<EM>monte Nuovo.</EM> These ashes

did

not only make this Hill, but covered

likewise a great part of the

Country about, Killing

both beasts

and Trees,

and ruining

the Vintage for that Year. The Sea in the mean time

retired

above 200 paces,

leaving

abundance of Fish upon the dry sands,

and many Wells

of fresh Water, which sprung

here and there.

</P>

<P>

2. The <EM>Lacus Avernus</EM> is

about half a miles

distance from the <EM>Lago lucrino.</EM> It

is

compassd

about with small Hills

which they say were

formerly

covered

with Trees,

that did

over shaddow

the water, and make it look

black, and likewise

did

hinder the Sulphureous Vapours

that did

arise from the water to dissipat,

so that the Air being

infected

with these vapours

became

so noysome

especially

to Fowls,

that they could not live in it, and hence

came

the Name <EM>Avernus.</EM> At present there

is

little or no Wood about it, nor

is

the Air any thing more noysome

there, than in other places

about, and I have seen

Fowles

184

haunting

about it and swimming

in it. It is

said

to be very deep &amp; for that reason without Fish but I

am

not certain hereof.

</P>

<P>

3. Upon the west side of the Lake,

cutt

into the Hill is

the <EM>Antrum Sybillae</EM> commonly

called

<EM>Grotta della Sybilla,</EM> but not

truly,

for the true Cave of <EM>Sybill<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

is

at <EM>C<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a.</EM>

This seems

rather to have been

a common passage from <EM>Avernus</EM> to

<EM>P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ia,</EM>

but is

now stopt

at the one end by the falling

down of the Hill above. The

passage is

large and High, but altogether dark, and therefore You must be

guided

by Torch light. When You are got

a good way in, upon the one side there

is

a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in

length, that leads

into a handsome large Chamber,

which altho'

it be now much ruined,

appears

to have been

Richly

adorned,

the Roof of it being

Painted

with Gold and Blew,

and the Walls

with curious figures

of divers

colours

and the Pavement

consisting

of many small peeces

like unto <EM>Mosaick.</EM>

It is

a vulgar errour

that this was

<EM>Sybilla</EM>'s Chamber, and

185

that the Temple of <EM>Apollo,</EM> where she

received

her Responses, was

hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake; But it

is

not so, for the Ruins

of that Place appeare

not to have been

any Temple at all, But rather a

Superb Bathing

House, such as that of <EM>Baia,</EM> for it

has

the same order of Windows,

&amp; Spiracles

for conducting

of the Vapours.

But to returne

to the <EM>Grotto,</EM> upon the left hand, as You enter into

this Chamber, there is

another Passage, some what higher

and larger

than the first, about 40. foot in length cut out into the

Hill, which leads

into another Chamber, from which there

is

a narrow passage, which leads

into another Chamber, and severall

other little passages

and Roomes

which <EM>I</EM> doe not distinctly

remember, only this much that in one of

them,

there is

as it were

a little Pool of Warm Water. In this Room the heat

is

so great, that it is

impossible to continue any

time in it without excessive

Sweating,

which makes

me to believe, that these Rooms

were

intended

for no other use than Bathing

and Sweating.

</P>

<P>

186

4. The Remains

or Ruins;

and first <EM>Bagno di Cicerone. 2ly. Bagno di Tritoli; quasi

Frittoli, q<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>od

Corpora ibi fricrentur,</EM> The

Entrie

to it is

large and high. Towards

the ground it is

cold, but if you stand upright You must

needs

Sweat for Heat, and the farther one

goes

in, the greater

the Heat is.

At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark, and even where the

Sea covers

it, the Sand is

so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull

of it.

</P>

<P>

5. <EM>Baia;</EM> So called

from <EM>Baius,</EM> the Companion of

<EM>Vlysses,</EM>

who was

Buried

there. It was

a most delicat City, but now altogither

Ruined,

and in the place of it there is

a Castle lately

Built

with a a Garison

of 30. Souldiers

for Securing

the Port, which is

verie

safe for Gallies,

but not deep enough for Ships.

The whole Bay, or <EM>Sinus</EM> of <EM>Baia,</EM>

is

exceedingly

Pleasant; all that Tract betwixt <EM>Avernus</EM> and the

<EM>Mons Misenus</EM> being

full of the Remains

of great and Noble structures.

Many of the <EM>Roman</EM> Emperours

took

great pleasure in this place, &amp; and

spared

no cost for the beautifying

of

167

it. <EM>Horace,</EM> who was

no ill Judge, gives

this Testimony of it,

<BR>Nullus in Orbe

locus Baiis praelucet amoenis.<BR>

</P>

<P>

As You go forward from <EM>Baia,</EM> You will still be

finding

something worthie

the Remarking;

as, 1. The House of <EM>Agrippina,

Nero</EM>'s Mother, who was

put to Death here by her Sons

Command. It is

commonly

said

to be her Sepulchre, but it is

not true. There is

yet to be seen

the Plaister

of the Roof and walls

in severall

Curious figures,

but they are much defaced

by the smoak

of the Torches

which strangers

from all parts

so frequently

carry down with them.

2. That delicat Pleasant Field called

the <EM>Eligium,</EM> so much renowned

by <EM>Virgil</EM> in the <EM>6th.</EM> Book of the

<EM>Aeneids.</EM> All the Noble

Persons

that lived

here abouts,

or did

otherwise attend upon the

Court, which did

often happen to be here, likewise those that for their

Health's sake came

to the Bath's, used

to walk in this place for their

188

Recreation and Converse. I am

easily

inclined

to believe that considering

it's Situation, Prospect, and the Order that it

was

keept

in, when so many great Persons

frequented

it, It could not chuse

but have been

the most delicious Place in the whole World, and no wonder

that it Prompted

<EM>Virgil</EM> to Borrow both it's name and his Conceit in

expressing

and describing

the Place of the Blessed

Soules

Departed.

I saw

it in the begining

of the Moneth

of <EM>March,</EM> and then the Heat

was

considerable, and the Place not only green but

covered

with <EM>Anemonies</EM>

and other Flowers.

Hard by this, is

the <EM>Piscina Miraebilis:</EM> it

is

a Cistern for

keeping

of fresh Water, of a vast Bigness, the Roof whereof

is

supported

by 48. great Pillars

on everie

side. The whole inside of it is

Crusted

over with a kind of Plaster as hard as

Marble, which whither it

was

so made

by Art, or by the Continuance of the Water in it, I know not,

but I think it probable that both have

contributed

to it. <EM>Boccace</EM> in his Book of

Rivers,

believs

189

it to have been

built

by <EM>Agrippa,</EM> for preserving

of fresh Water, for the Commodity

of the Navie

which used

to stay at <EM>Misenum.</EM> The Water

was

brought

to it by aquedu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ts

from <EM>Serino.</EM> 3. <EM>Mons Misenus</EM> or the

<EM>Promontorium Misenum,</EM> so

called

from <EM>Misenus, Aeneas</EM>'s

Trumpeter, who

was

Buried

here. It is

of a Reasonable Hight, and without doubt the prospect from it

is

Noble; but I did

not ascend it, by reason of the

Company that would not stay

for me.

</P>

<P>4. The <EM>Centum Cellae;</EM> which are a

continued

Fabrick

built

of Brick with great Art under ground, it

seems

they have been

Cisterns

for Conserving

of Water. In short, all this peece

of ground is

full of ancient Ruins,

and it is

not easie

to Guesse,

what every one of them

in Particular

hath

been.</P>

<P>

Having

vieued all these things,

you either go straight to

<EM>Cuma,</EM> or else you leave it for another Day, and so

returne

to <EM>Pozzulo,</EM> by the same Boat that

waited

upon you from it, and so returne

by Horse, by the lower but plainer

and

190

more pleasant Way, to <EM>Naples,</EM> from from whence the

next Day you may go to <EM>Cuma,</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Cumae;</EM> a City built

upon the Top of a Hill six Miles

from <EM>Naples;</EM> upon the highest

Top of this Hill stood

the Temple of <EM>Apollo</EM> built

by <EM>Dedalus,</EM> when he fled

from the wrath of King <EM>Minos.</EM> It

was

in this Temple that <EM>Sybilla Cumea</EM>

did

pronounce the Oracles

of <EM>Apollo.</EM> Hence that of <EM>Virgil,</EM>

<BR>

<BR>At pius Aeneas arces quibus altus Apollo

<BR>Praesidet, horrendae{que} procul secreta Sybillae.

<BR>

</P>

<P>

As you descend from <EM>Cuma</EM> upon that side that

looks

to the East, is

to be seen

the Frontis-peece

of the true <EM>Grotta</EM> of <EM>Sybilla,</EM> which

was

cut out of the solid Rock, which <EM>Virgil</EM>

describeth,

<BR>Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum.<BR>

</P>

<P>There are many other Ancient

Ruins

worthie

the taking

notice of, which you may have leasure

enough to observe, and have time enough to

returne

to <EM>Naples</EM> at Night.</P>

<P>

191

The next Day you may take Horse again and a Guide with you

from the Town, to see the burning

Hill, about 8 Miles

distant from the Town; It is

called

in Latine

<EM>Vesuvius,</EM> and in Italian <EM>Monte di soma,</EM> from

the great Plentie

of all things

wherewith it aboundeth.

the Hill it self is

of a very Large Compass, and

about the middle divided

in two Tops,

of which one is

much abated

of its

length by the burning.

Before the first eruption of the Fire, it

was

much higher

than the other, but now it is

by much the lower. It is

not easily

accessible both in regard of its

steepness, and the great Quantitie

of Ashes

that cover it every where, by

Reason whereof, the ascent becomes

slippery and uncertain. In

the ascending,

you may take nottice of many several

Channels,

some larger

and deeper,

some narrower

and shallower

made

by the Torrents

of burning

Sulphur and other Mineral Substances,

which Boyled

out at the Top in the last great eruption it

made,

which torrents

were

carried

several

192

Miles

into the Gulf or bay of <EM>Naples</EM>

without being

quenched,

and killed

the Fishes

in the middle of the deep. You may

likeways

take notice of the various Mineral

Substances,

&amp; Stones

burn'd to <EM>Pumick,</EM> which are

scattered

over the whole Hill. When you come at the Top you will see the

great Gulf made

by the several

eruptions,

which is

suposed

to be six Miles

in compasse

about the Brimmes,

so that it makes

a very large plain Field at the Bottom, that in deepness from

the brimm

is

not above a hundred Yards,

it is

all covered

with Ashes,

and nothing green in it,

except it be some few Tufts,

of I cannot tell what, not being

able to Judge of them

at that distance. The descent to the Bottom at some

places

seems

to be easie

enough, but we could find none so

hardie

as to venture to show us the way,

altho'

some of our Guides

had

undertaken

it before, and to speak truth, it

is

no great discretion to venture so far down upon a Ground,

which probably

is

not able to support one, being

nothing in appearance but a

193

Field of Ashes

of uncertain deepthness. You will see in a Hundred diverse

Places,

Spiracles,

some greater,

some smaller,

out of which the Smoak

rises

impetuously,

as it were

shott

out of a Gun, and with a continual

Crackling,

like that of Thunder at a distance, or the

quenching

of Fire. When you have satisfied

your Curiositie

of seeing

all, you must return the same Day, and take your Horse where

you left him,

about the middle of the Hill; and so

returne

to <EM>Naples.</EM> It is

usuall

for Strangers

to light at a Village about

midway to the City, to Taste of these excellent

Wines,

that grow upon the fertile places

of the Hill, and particularly

of <EM>Lachryma Christi,</EM> otherways

called

<EM>Lagrima di Soma,</EM> which

is

a gross bodied

Red Wine, strong and sweet to the taste, and very pleasant.

</P>

<P>In the suburbs

of the Town, as you return, you

may see the Kings

Stables,

where the choisest

Horses

of the Kingdom are menaged

and keept

for the Kings

use.</P>

<P>

Thus having

vieued all in &amp; about <EM>Naples,</EM>

it will be time to order your return

194

for <EM>Rome,</EM> by the same way you

came,

nor do I remember any other thing

needfull

to be observed

or advised,

except that you must l<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>t<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

your Baggage <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e

vieued at the Gate&#0183; as you go out, and take a Pass from

the Customers;

or which you will pay some small thing. You will

likeways

do well to rid your self of all Spanish

Monie

(gold excepted)

unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your

expenses

to <EM>Fu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>die,</EM>

because it will not pass in any place of <EM>Italy,</EM>

except such as are under the

<EM>Spanish Dominion.</EM>

</P>

<P>

If the Season of the Year be good, there

is

excellent Her<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rising

upon this <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>oade

to <EM>Naples.</EM> You will find Wild in the

Fields,

many sorts

of <EM>Narcissus</EM>'s, many Colours

of single <EM>Anemone</EM>'s, <EM>Squills:

As<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>h<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>delus

albus ma<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>or;

Tithymalus Dendroides.</EM>

It is

a Plant I never saw,

except upon the way from <EM>Pipern<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rrachina,</EM>

about mid way upon a Hill side,

where it groweth

in great aboundance.

It is

a stately tall Plant, <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

reading

it self into severall

Branches,

some whereof I observed

to be as big as a

195

Mans

Wrist. It had

few or no leaves

on it in the Season when I saw

it, which was

<EM>March,</EM> but aboundance

of Yellow Flowers

at the Top's of the Branches:

The <EM>Ficus indica lati-folia,</EM>

is

a Beastly weed in the same

Place, and spoiles

all the Ground; every leafe

that falls

springing

up into a new Plant, which at last

becometh

hard and woodie.

<EM>Tuchr<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>um

lusit anicum arborescens,</EM> of which I

saw

some goodly tufts

near to <EM>Terachina.</EM> There be many other, which for

brevities

sake I omit to mention, and likeways

a great many that I have forgot,

having

lost

those notes

I made

of their names

and places;

but I hope you will supply this defect,

being

your self much more able to do it.

</P>

<P>

Being

returned

to <EM>Rome,</EM> which I shall suppose to be about the middle

or end of <EM>April:</EM> It will be

fitt

for you to think of the next Voyage

towards

<EM>Loretto,</EM> unless you

resolve to pass the Summer at <EM>Rome,</EM> for after the

<EM>20th.</EM> of <EM>May,</EM>

untill

the latter <EM>Rains</EM>

fall (which is

commonly

about the middle of <EM>September,</EM> or

196

the beginning

of <EM>October,</EM> the extream

heat makes

Travel very unseasonable. But if in the case of necessity,

such as Pestilence, or War, you should be

forced

to undertake the Journey, you must order it so as to Travel

most in the Night, and Rest in the heat of the Day, and be

sure not to Sleep till you have

passed

the <EM>Campania</EM> of <EM>Rome,</EM> as I have

formerly

marked.

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>The Way to Loretto from Rome.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Miles.</LI>

<EM>Prima porta </EM>

<LI>7</LI>

<EM>Castel

Novo </EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Rignano </EM>

<LI>7</LI>

<EM>Civita </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>O<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ricoli

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Nar<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>i

</EM>

<LI>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</LI>

<EM>Terni</EM>

<LI>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</LI>

<EM>Strettur<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Spolet<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Passo di Spel<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>to

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Verchi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>no

B<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rg<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>

197

Pi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> di

dignano

</EM>

<LI>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</LI>

<EM>Mucc<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a

Castello </EM>

<LI>7</LI>

<EM>Valcimara </EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>To<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>entino

</EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Macerata </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Loretto </EM>

<LI>6</LI>

</UL>

<P>

I have not much to say of the particular

places

upon this Road, only <EM>Tern<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

is

an

Ancient City and pleasantly

situated;

the River <EM>Negra,</EM> in Latine

<EM>Nar</EM> being

divided

in many Branches,

and drawn

through the Town, are as it were

so many little Rivers,

whence also the Town in Latine

is

called

<EM>Interamna:</EM> the Meadowes

&amp; Fields

about it, are exceedingly

fertile, in so much that the meadowes

are mowen three or four times

a Year; and they talk that Turneps

are often found there of five or six &amp;

thirtie

weight, of which seaven

or eight will load an

Ass; it is

also renowned

for Pidgeons,

which are thought the biggest

&amp; most savoury in <EM>Italy.</EM> If you can take the

leisure to stay here any time, it will be worth your

198

while to see the <EM>Lago di piedi luco,</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Lacus velinus</EM> (not far from <EM>Terni</EM>) which

is

said

to be the middle of all <EM>Italy,</EM>

that which is

most considerable in it, is

the <EM>Issue</EM> of the Waters

from it, which was

cut by a <EM>Roman Consul</EM> through a Rock, whence it

Rushes

out, and falls

over so great a hight of Rocks,

that it makes

a noise which may be heard

at ten Miles

distance, and makes

a greater

<EM>cascata</EM> then that of <EM>Tivoli.</EM> From

<EM>Verchian<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

you have the <EM>Appennine</EM> to pass, which

is

that ridg of Hills

that divides

all <EM>Italy</EM> by the length.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Valcimara,</EM> the way

is

exceeding

good to <EM>Loretto.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>Loretto</EM> it self is

a little Town not very Ancient,

built

upon the Top of a Hill, not above 3 or 4

Miles

from the <EM>Adriatick</EM>

Sea, it is

fortified

reasonably

well: the most considerable thing in it,

is

the Church, in the Quire whereof

stands

the <EM>Casa S<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ncta,</EM>

brought

thither from <EM>Judeae</EM> Miraculously

by <EM>Angels,</EM>

as is

beleeved.

This is

the House in which the blessed

Virgin is

said

to have been

Born. The

199

out-side of it is

walled

about with Marble cut into

excellent Figures,

but yet so as the Walls

touch not the Holy House. The inside

hath

continually

Lamps

burning

in it, some of Gold, some of Silver. There

is

in it a Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin, which they say

were

painted

by St. <EM>Luke.</EM> The Image of the Virgin, which

stands

upon the Altar, hath

a Garment upon it all covered

with Pearles,

&amp; upon the Head a Crown of Gold,

enriched

with Jewells;

upon the Top whereof there is

a Carbuncle of the bigness

of an

Egg. There is

likeways

shown

within the House a little Dish, out of which our Saviour

is

said

to have Eat his Meat whilst he was

yet a Babe. People commonly

bring their Beads,

Medals,

&amp; other peeces

of Devotion to be put in this Dish, &amp; to touch the other

relicts.

The <EM>Sacristia</EM> is

well worthy the seeing

because of the

Jewels,

and other Rich presents

and Ornaments

belonging

to the House, which are keept

there, and have been

given

and offered

continualy,

by allmost

all Princes

and great Persons

in

200

Christendom. The Cellar is

likeways

worthie

the seeing,

being

exceedingly

Large and full of Wines.

Amongst others they

ordinarly

shew

one great Tun out of which they draw 3 or 4

sorts

of Wine, some red, some white. The

number of

Pilgrims,

and other Persons,

that out of Devotion resort to this Place, from all the

parts

of Christendom, is

allmost

infinit,

insomuch that every Day appears

to be a holy Day and the whole Year but one

continued

Feast. So soon as the Gates

are opened

in the morning, they begin to enter as it

were

in Procession. I believe

there are but few Inhabitants

in the Town, except a few Trades-men

of all sorts,

for the Accommodation of

Strangers,

the greatest

part are Merchants,

that sell nothing but Beads

and peeces

of Devotion, such as Medals

of Silver, Gold, Brass, Christal

&amp;c. Books

of Devotion, and such like. There

is

good Accommodation in the Town, at a reasonable Rate. The City

is

Commanded

by a Governour,

who hath

his Palace near to the Church.

201

We were

Recommended

to him

by Cardinal <EM>Charles

Barbarini,</EM> and were

treated

by him

with great Civilitie;

his Secretary

being

commanded

to wait upon us, and show us all that

was

considerable in the place.

</P>

<P>After two days

stay here we dismissed

our Horses

that we brought

from <EM>Rome,</EM> and Hyred

new ones

from <EM>Loretto</EM> to <EM>Bolognia.</EM></P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Loretto to Bolognia.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Miles</LI>

<EM>Ancona </EM>

<LI>15</LI>

<EM>La casa Brugiata </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Cenigalia </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Fano </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Pesaro </EM>

<LI>6</LI>

<EM>Rimini </EM>

<LI>20</LI>

<EM>Sanigniana Castello </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Cesena </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Furli </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Faenza </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Imola </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>St. Nicola Castello </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Bolognia </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

</UL>

<P>

202

<EM>Ancona</EM> is

about half a days

Journey from <EM>Loretto.</EM> It

is

a verie

ancient City and the best Sea Port in <EM>Italy,</EM> at least

upon the <EM>Adriatick</EM>

Coast: The Port was

Built,

at least Restored

and Beautified,

by <EM>Trajan</EM> the Emperour,

in whose Honour a most stately

Triumphal Arch was

Raised

upon it, which it yet extant, with this Inscription in Capital

Letters.

<EM>Imp. Caes. di<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>i

Nervae F. Nervae Trajano optimo

August.</EM> Germanic. <EM>Daetico. Pontef. max. Tr. Pot. xix.

Imp. xi. Cos. vii. P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R.

Quod adcessum Italiae, Hoc etiam

addito ex pecunia sua Portum

tutiorem Navigantibus

reddiderit.</EM> And upon the Right side thereof You may Read

this Inscription <EM>Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug.</EM> And upon

the left, <EM>Divae Marcian: Aug: sorori August.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Cenigalia</EM> is

a little Town having

a Sea-Port&#0183; It seems

from the name to have been

built,

and to have belonged

to the <EM>Galli Cenones.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>Fano,</EM> Antiently

<EM>Fanum;</EM> because of the Temple of Fortune that

stood

here; There

203

is

a stately Triumphall

Arch of Marble 30, Cubits

High. <EM>Pesaro</EM> is

a very Pleasant and handsome

City having

many fine Houses

and a Magnificent Palace, It is

well Peopled

and well Fortified.

The Duke of <EM>Vrbin,</EM> to whom

this City did

belong, used

to pass one half of the Year here; But since his Death without

Heirs

Male the whole Dutchie

is

Reunited

to the <EM>Ecclesiastick</EM>

state.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Rimini,</EM> in Latine

<EM>Ariminum;</EM> is

like to be so called

from the River <EM>Arimine</EM> that

passes

by it. There are severall

fair Palaces

in it, built

by the <EM>Mala-testi</EM> antient

Lords

of the Place. There is

a Triumphal Arch

erected

in Honour of <EM>Augustus,</EM> yet extant, and the

Ruines

of a great Theatre. But the most considerable thing of all

is

the Bridge, Built

of great square Marble stones,

of twentie

foot in length and 15. in breadth, with five

Arches.

The Bridge Joynes

the <EM>Via Flaminia</EM> and the <EM>Via Emilia</EM>

together. It is

said

to have been

Built

by <EM>Tiberius Caesar.</EM> In the Mercat place there

is

to be seen

the stone upon which <EM>Julius Caesar</EM>

stood,

and encouraged

204

his Officers,

when he began

the Civil War. This Stone hath

this Inscription <EM>C.

Caesar D. Rubicone superato, civili Bello, Comilitones suos

hic in for<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Ariminensi

adlocutus.</EM>

</P>

<P>Within a Mile of <EM>Cesina,</EM> or there

abouts,

You must pass the <EM>Rubicon,</EM> which

seems

to be but a Torrent, and in the Summer time for the most part

dry; At the place where You pass there

is

yet extant

an

ancient Pillar, the Inscription whereof

hath

made

the name of <EM>Rubicon</EM> so famous. it

is

as follows;

<EM>Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos.

Imp. Myli

Tyro Comilito manipulariaeve

Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae

armat quis quis est hic sistito. Vexillum sinito, ne citra hunc

amnem Rubiconem signa, Arma,

ductum, commeatum,

Exercitum{que} traducito; siquis

hujusce Jussionis ergo adversum

ierit, feceritve, adjudicatus

esto hostis</EM> P: R. <EM>ac si contra Patriam armaverit,

Sacros{que} Penatos e

penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus.</EM></P>

<BR>

205

<EM>NE</EM> Consulto ultra hos fines

Armae proferre

liceat nemini.

<BR>

<BR>S. P. Q. R.<BR>

<P><EM>And upon the other side of the

Pillar, the

following

Inscription;</EM> Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator,

Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu, &amp; adagio, Jactae alcae,

Celebratum.</P>

<P>Flumini huic stabilem imponere

trajectum, Ethnica diu vetuit

pavida Superstitio,

Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio.</P>

<BR>

<BR>Innocent: X<SUP>o</SUP> Summo Pont:

<BR>Card: D: Legato 1654.

<BR>

<P><EM>Furli;</EM> in Latine

<EM>Forum Livii,</EM> where there

is

litle

thing considerable except the Market Place.</P>

<P><EM>Faenza;</EM> is

divided

in two by the River

<EM>Lamone,</EM> over which stands

a goodly Bridge that Joynes

the two parts

of the Town together, it is

called

in Latine

<EM>Faventia,</EM> and the

People <EM>Faventini.</EM></P>

<P>

206

The whole way from <EM>Ancona</EM> to

<EM>Bolognia</EM>

is

Plain and Smooth, and the Countrey

on all sides

very Rich and Fertile, but especially

near to <EM>Bolognia,</EM> (which

deservedly

is

called

<EM>la Crassa</EM>) where the whole

Countrey,

on everie

s<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>de of the

high way, looks

like Gardens,

being

Hedged

and closed

in on all sides,

and Planted

with <EM>Olive</EM> and while <EM>Mulberry</EM>

Trees,

the Leaves

whereof <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erve

to the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eeding

of Silk Wormes,

and at the Roots

of which the Vines

being

Planted,

run up and spread themselves thorow

all the Branches

of the Trees,

and load them

with Grapes.

The distance betwixt the Ranges

of Trees

is

Sowen

sometimes

with Wheat, or other usefull

Grain, or Kitchin

Herbs

and Roots,

Nor is

there wanting

here abundance of the Choisest

Fruits

that <EM>Italy</EM> affoords.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Bolognia;</EM> is

the second Town of the Ecclesiastick

State, sweetly

situated

in a large Plain, near to some Hills

at the one side. The City is

near two Miles

in length and one in breadth, and about 5

Miles

in Compass. The Inhabitants

are

207

not esteemed

to be under 80 Thousand in number, amongst which it

is

thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen,

whereof many have the Titles

of Count and Marques.

There is

a famous University &amp;

many fine Colledges

worthie

to be seen:

As also many fine Churches

&amp; Religious Houses.

The Archdean of the Cathedral of St.

<EM>Peters,</EM>

has

the Priviledge

of making

Doctors,

above others. In the Church of <EM>Corpus Christi,</EM> may be

seen

the intire

Body of St. <EM>Katharine</EM> of <EM>Vigri,</EM> a Religious

Woman of the Order of St. <EM>Clare,</EM> that

Died

at <EM>Bolognia,</EM> in the Year 1463. She

sits

in a Chair, with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face

seems

to be bent and streacht, her Eyes

open, her Hands

and Feet

bare: In one Hand She holds

a Crucifix, the other is

placed

upon a Pillow. They use in the presence of a great deal of

Companie

to paire

her Nails

every Month, and to cut her Hair once a Year, after they are

grown.

In the <EM>Iacobins</EM>

Church is

keept

the Head of St. <EM>Dominick</EM> in a Rich Tabernacle, and

his Body in a Curious

208

Tomb of white Marble cut in severall

figures

of <EM>Base relieve;</EM> In the

<EM>Choire</EM>

may be seen

the Histories

of the New and Old Testament, with

wonderfull

Artifice represented

in mosaick

of of Wood. There is

also to be seen

here, a rare Peece

of Painting,

of the Innocents

made

by <EM>Guido Reni;</EM> all the

parts

of this Convent are worthie

the taking

notice of, the

Cloisters,

the <EM>Dormitories</EM>

of above 150 Religious, the Refictory

Painted

by great Masters,

the Apothecaries

Shop, and the Bibliotheck, and the Cellar which

is

extraordinarly

Big.

</P>

<P>

There be many fine Palaces

worthie

the seeing,

and very well Ornamented

within, but especially

the <EM>Popes</EM>

own Palace, where the

Legat

resides,

and in it you must take particular care to see

<EM>Aldrovandi's</EM>

Studie,

and Collection of Curiosities,

which are keept

in this Palace, and commonly

intrusted

to the Legats

Physitian.

There is

likeways

to be seen

in the Back Court <EM>Aldrovandi's</EM> Garden, in which there

are some Curious Plants.

In the Study you will see a great

Herball,

209

in water Colours,

but without any description, as also a whole press full of

Manuscripts,

written

all with his own Hand.

</P>

<P>

There are severall

Towres

in the Town, but especially

that of <EM>Degli Pisanelli,</EM>

which is

one of the highest

I remember to have ever seen;

it stands

about the middle of the Town, and near by it there

is

an

other which is

not finished,

and the reason they give for it

is

very apparent, that the Builders

mistook

the perpendicular; when one stands

near to it, it is

so very crooked

that it appears

to be just a falling.

I had

the Curiositie

to go as high in the other Towre

as I could, and rather because I thought I might more

easily

discover the situation of

the Town, it's avenues,

and the Country about, but I had

much Reason to repent me: The ladders

for the most part being

old and rotten,

so that I was

in continuall

apprehension of falling,

and one slip would have done

my turne

as well as a hundred. I shall advise you rather to take the

paines

to see a Convent,

210

a little without the Town, toward the

Hills,

called

St. <EM>Michaele

in Bosco,</EM> from whence you will have a most

Delicate Prospect of the Town

and Country about. The Town

appears

in the form of a Ship, and the Towre

<EM>Deglipisanelli,</EM> may be the maine Mast of it. This

Convent

is

one of the most Glorious in <EM>Italy;</EM> the Religious are

of the Order <EM>di Monte Olivetto,</EM> there are many other

things

in the Town worthie

the taking

notice of, which for brevities

sake I omit.

</P>

<P>You must not forget to see the Silk-Work, which

is

a most Curious contrivance;

it is

three or four Storie

high, in the Highest

Storie

there are Innumerable Pirns

of Silk, which are all moved

by the generall

Motion that the Water

gives

to some Wheeles

below, &amp; there they receive the first Twist; in the

Storie

next to that, they receive the second;

&amp; in the lowermost Storie

the last: which brings

it to that form of raw Silk that we

commonly

see sold.</P>

<P>

This Place above all others in <EM>Italy,</EM>

211

or in the World, is

famous for excellent

Soap-Balls,

of which you will do well to provide your self

abundantly;

they will keep in their perfection above 20

Years:

You may have them

of severall

Sizes,

bigger

or lesser as you please. It is

likeways

famous for Sassadges, which are the best

cetainly

in tke World: I have seen

of them

of 5 Crownes

the Peece.

</P>

<P>

There is

good Herbarising towards

the Hills,

if your leisure can permit you; you may take a Guide along

with you. Upon these Hills,

you will likeways

find that famous Stone called

<EM>Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis,</EM> of which

<EM>Fortunatus

Lic<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>t<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s</EM>

hath

written

a particular Book. It is

very hard and Flintie

like, but more glistering;

when it is

calcined

48 hours

in a reverberatory Fire &amp; then set to

cooll:

If you expose it a little to the light and free Air, and on

the sudden bring it to the

dark, it shines

for a little while as if it were

a Red burning

Coale,

but there is

a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that

growes

upon

212

the Top of it, whilst it is

a Calcineing, which

is

most effectuall

for the shining,

and which if it by lost

by any Accident, the rest will not be much worth, and for

saving

of this they use ordinarly

to fix the Stone in Wax in the bottom of a Box, &amp; so sell

them

to Strangers,

but this way does

not secure them,

to my certain Experience. The best way

is

to bring the Stone uncalcined

and prepare it at home. I would have you to see

an

Apothecarie,

who is

a great Virtuoso

especiallie

in Plants.

He is

called

<EM>Jacomo

Zanoni speciale

da san Biaggio custode de simplici in

Bolognia;</EM> I believe he

has

Published

something of Plants

by this time, for he shewed

me a Number of Brass cutts,

which were

allreadie

Graven,

and told

me the intention he

had

as soon as he could get the rest

perfected,

to cause print them.

If they may be had,

I intreat you to procure me

one of them;

you will do well to see his Garden, which

is

very Curious. And the best way to

ingage

all such Men

as he is,

is

to have allways

a Parcell

of rare

213

Seeds

with you, and to give them

some, by which means

you will find them

readie

to give you whatever they can spare, in like manner.

</P>

<P>I shall advise you to Visit the

Booksellers

Shops,

concerning

which I must give you this generall

advice, for finding

out <EM>Botanick</EM>

Books,

that you take paines

to look them

all over your self; for many times

the Book-sellers

do not know their names.

You will find here <EM>Panacea ex herbis quae a Sanctis

denominantur</EM> Item

<EM>Historia &amp; Icones

Capsicorum Bartholomaei

Ambrosini in</EM> 80. <EM>Bononiae</EM>

1630. also <EM>Hyacinthi Ambrosini

hortus Studiosorum &amp; Novarum

Plantarum hactenus non S<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ulptarum

Historia</EM> in 40. <EM>Bononiae</EM> 1657. But above all I

must intreat you to buy me

<EM>Aldrovandus</EM>'s works,

which ate 13 or 14 Tomes

in <EM>Folio;</EM> you may buy them

in Sheets,

and have them

packt

up in your own things

for <EM>Venice,</EM> where you will not fail to meet with

frequent Occasions

of sending

them

for <EM>London.</EM> I believe they will not cost

above 18 or 20

Crowns.

and if they do I shall be readie

to allow it.</P>

<P>

214

It will not be a miss here, if you think fit, to go by Land to

<EM>Modena, Parma</EM> and <EM>Piatzena</EM> and

returne

by the River <EM>Po</EM> to <EM>Ferrara:</EM> But because I

had

not the Fortune to see them

my self, I shall not say any thing of

them,

but returne

to <EM>Ferrara,</EM> which is

not above half a Days

Journie,

or thereabouts,

from <EM>Bolognia.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Ferrara,</EM> is

situated

in a large Plain about half a mile distance from the

<EM>Po.</EM> It belongs

to the Ecclesiastick

State, and is

governed

by the <EM>Popes</EM>

Legate. The Streets,

Houses

and Places,

are very handsome &amp; fine, as also the

Churches

&amp; Religious Houses.

In the Monasterie

of S. <EM>Bennet,</EM> you may see the Sepulchre &amp; Epitaph

of the famous Poet <EM>Ariosto.</EM> It

hath

a verie

strong and well contrived

<EM>Cittadale.</EM></P>

<P>

From hence you go to <EM>Venice</EM> by

Water, that

is

in an

open Boat, by a <EM>Canale</EM>

near to the side of the <EM>Po,</EM> where ye

imbarke

in a bigger

Vessel, which goes

constantly

twice a Week to <EM>Venice.</EM> If the Wind be favourable,

you will easily

accomplish the Voyage in 10

or 12 houres

215

time, but if otherways, you may be

longer,

and therefore you will do well to make Provision of

Victuals,

to take along with you. When you Arrive at <EM>Venice,</EM> it

will be needfull

to Lodge in a convenient

Place of the Town, and for that end, you will do well to

provide your self of a Recommendation to the English

Consul; from <EM>Rome</EM> or

from <EM>Bolognia. Giles Jones</EM>

was

Consul in my time, and entertained

Lodgers

himself, he was

a verie

honest Man, and did

faithfullie

send my things

to <EM>London,</EM> according

to the address I gave

him.

When you are setled

in a Lodging,

It will be time to take a View of the Town, for the

doing

of which and considering

it well, 3 or 4 Weeks

is

little enough. Nothing in Nature can appear more prodigious

than to see a Vast big Town seated

in the middle of the Sea;

everie

House whereof at one side or another

is

touched

by the Water, and the nearest

Land being

4 or 5 Miles

distance. It was

built

at first upon the little Island

of <EM>Rialto</EM> in the Year 421, perhaps

later

by the Inhabitants

of the

216

firm Land that were

chaced

from their own homes

by <EM>Attila</EM> King of the <EM>Huns,</EM>

&amp; forced

to make choice of this place for their safety; since that time

they have built

upon 70 or 71 Isles more, which are

joyned

together by upwards

of 450 Bridges.

The Town is

about 8 Miles

in compass. There are but few Streets

built

on both sides,

except some open places.

The most part of the Streets

have a Canale

or Ditch in the middle, by which the Gondols pass, which

is

a great commoditie,

for there is

scarce a House in the Town, but one may be

carried

this way, either close to it or within a few

steps

of it. The Canals

are different in breadth, some more some less large, the

narrowest

is

broad enough for one Gondole to go by another; It

is

remarkable, that the Water Ebbs

and Flowes

here 4 or 5 foot, which is

not observed

in the <EM>Adriatick</EM>

farther down towards

<EM>Naples,</EM> nor in any other

Port of the <EM>Mediterranian</EM>

Sea; The Gondals are believed

to be above fourteen or fifteen thousand in Number; they are

small tight Boats

much cleaner &amp;

217

finer

than Oares

upon the <EM>Thames,</EM> having

a prettie

Tilt over the seat where the Passingers

sit, &amp; will be able to accommodat 5 or 6

Persons:

It is

usual for Gentlemen

or Persons

of Qualitie

to have their own Gondols, and those

Richer

than the ordinary; some are

rowed

by one, some by two, and it is

somewhat extraordinary that the Rower

does

not sit within the Boat, but stands

upon one side of it, and lookes

the same way that he rows.

At the turning

of any Corner, after they come within

such a distance of it, they are

obliged

to cry, to give notice to the Gondols on the otherside

whom

they cannot see, and he that cryes

first hath

this advantage, that he

turnes

close by the corner, and the others are

obliged

to give him

way and take it larger:

And I assure you it is

no small wonder to me that there

being

so many corners

to tur<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,

and so continuall

and frequent intercourse of Gondols

going

some the one way, and some the other; and in the dark as well

in the Day: there should be so few

Accidents

of running

one another down, especiallie,

218

considering

with what swiftness

thay

go. The largest

Canale,

called

<EM>Canale

grande,</EM>

is

about 13 or 14 hundred

paces

in length; &amp; fourtie

in breadth, and divides

the Town as it were

in two. The Bridge of the <EM>Rivo alto,</EM> or as it

is

commonlie

pronounced

<EM>Rialto,</EM> is

one of the most magnificent Structures

in the Citie:

it consists

but of one <EM>Arch,</EM> &amp; yet

is

said

to have cost above 250 thousand

Duckets;

at the one end of the Bridge, there are three large

Streets

divided

by 2 rowes

of Houses,

which are so many Merchant shops.

This serves

for the Exchange, where the

Merchants

meet about Noon to do their affairs.

</P>

<P>

There are so manie

things

considerable in this Place that it

is

difficult to comprehend

them

in this short Narration, and therefore I shall

onlie

name a few of them,

and leaue

the rest to your particular inquirie,

which will not be hard for you to make, when you are upon the

place. Be pleased

then first to take notice among the

Churches

of that of St <EM>Mark,</EM> which

properlie,

is

onlie

the Dukes

Chapel belonging

219

to the Palace of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> whose

Bodie

being

brought

from <EM>Alexandria</EM> is

preserved

here; The Church has

24 <EM>Chanoines</EM>

belonging

to it under one Head, called

<EM>Primicero.</EM> He is

commonlie

chosen

by the Doge, and wears

the Miter and other

Ornaments

of a Bishop, &amp; uses

to give his Benediction to the People as

Bishops

do. The inside of the Church is

of Marble of diverse sorts,

and all verie

fine, with above 40 Marble Pillars;

It is

paved

with Porphire, Serpentine &amp;c. in

Mosaick

Work; Upon the Top of the great Altar, there

is

a Globe enriched

with a great number of Pearles

and other Jewels

of price; The Roof of the Church

consists

of 5 <EM>Cupula's</EM> covered

with lead; It hath

5 Doors

of Brass, and over the great entrie

on the outside there stands

four Delicat Horses,

equal in bigness to the Natural, of Brass

Guilded,

which at first were

placed

upon the Triumphal <EM>Arch</EM> of <EM>Nero,</EM> after he

subdued

the <EM>Parths,</EM> but were

afterward carried

to <EM>Constantinople,</EM>

when the Seat of the <EM>Empire</EM>

was

removed

from <EM>Rome</EM> and at last brought

220

hither by the <EM>Venetians</EM>

when they took

<EM>Constantinople. 2ly.</EM> That which

is

most worthie

of the seeing

(it may be in all the World) is

the Treasure of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> where amongst other

things

you will see 12 Royal Crowns

&amp; 12 <EM>Breast</EM> Plates

of Gold, ful

of Pearles

and Jewels;

taken

as they say at <EM>Constantinople;</EM> And the

Tradition

is,

that they were

the Ornaments

of the 12 Maids

of Honour that waited

upon St. <EM>Helena</EM> Mother to <EM>Constantine</EM> the

<EM>Emperour;</EM>

several Rubies

weighing

8 Ounces

a Peece,

and a Saphir that weighs

ten Ounces;

two Unicorns

Horns;

severall

Vessels

of Precious Stones&#0183;

as Agat,

J<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>spir

&amp;c; one of Emerauld which a King of <EM>Persia</EM>

presented

the Senat

with. One of one single Turkis; another capable to hold a

<EM>Scots</EM>

Quart of one single Granat; The Tiar or Bonnet wherewith the

Duke is

Crowned,

is

Garnished

with Jewels

of inestimable price; There is

a vast deal of other Riches,

which I cannot particularly

remember; There is

likewa<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s to

be seen

the Picture of the blessed

Virgin done

by St <EM>Luke.</EM> The Acts

of the Apostles

221

writen

in golden Letters

by the hand of St <EM>John Chrysostome,

Patriarch</EM> of <EM>Con<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>tantinople.</EM>

It will be worth your while to go to the Top of the Steeple,

from whence you will have a delicat Prospect of the whole City

and Neighbouring

Islands,

of a part of <EM>Lumbardie,</EM>

of the severall

Mouths

of the River <EM>Po,</EM> The Hills

of <EM><FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>tria;</EM>

&amp; the Sea about&#0183; <EM>3ly:</EM> The Palace of St

<EM>Mark,</EM> whereof the <EM>Arches,</EM>

Pillars,

Halls

and Chambers

are all most Statelie,

especialy

the great Halls,

which are Painted

by the greatest

Masters

of their time; for the fetter understanding

of which, it will be fitt,

that you get a Printed

Inventorie

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>f all the

particular Ornaments

of this Palace.

</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly,</EM> The <EM>Piazza</EM> of St <EM>Marco,</EM> which

is

one of the Largest

and finest

that can be <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

in any Town in <EM>Italy;</EM> being

com<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>sed

with most Stately and regular Buildings&#0183;

with large <EM>Arches</EM>

and <EM>Portic<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>es</EM>

to walk in, in the time of Heat or Rain&#0183; with all

sorts

of Merchandise and Trades.

This Place is

the most diverticeing in

all <EM>Venice,</EM> for here you may

222

see People of many Nations

with different Habits.

At that end of that place which

lookes

to the Sea, there stands

two Marble Pillars,

each of them

of them

one Peece,

of a great hight and bigness, at a reasonable Distance one

from another. Upon the Top of the one

is

placed

a flying

Lion guilded,

which is

the Armes

of <EM>Venice,</EM> and the Symbole

of St <EM>Mark;</EM> Upon the Top of the other the Statue of

St <EM>Theodore</EM> gilded.

Betwixt these Pillars,

Justice is

usuallie

done

upon Male-factors.

About the middle of the place stands

3 verie

Tall Poles

like unto Ships

Masts,

whereupon the Standards

of the Republick

are displaied

at great Solemnities.

On that side of the place, which

is

opposit

to the Dukes

Palace, stands

the <EM>Mint-House,</EM> a verie

goodlie

Fabrick,

composed

of Stone and Iron, without any Wood at all. <EM>5ly.</EM> The

<EM>Arsenal,</EM> which is

the largest

and best Furnished

in the World; it is

strongly

Walled

about, and the Sea drawn

about it likeways.

There are fifteen or sixteen hundred

Men

constantly

at Work, besides

223

Old Men,

who are not able to work, but intertained

for instructing

the younger.

Here are keept

all sort of <EM>Amunitions</EM> of War both for Sea &amp;

Land, in vast Quantities,

and in that good Order, that I

have heard

some confidentlie

say, <EM>that there were

Workmen

within the</EM> Arsenal,

<EM>that were

able to build a</EM> Gally,

<EM>and reik her out compleatly

in one Hours

time;</EM> which if it be true,

argues

a great deal of sharpness in the

Workmen,

and readiness of the Materials.

</P>

<P>

There are severall

lesser Islands

at some distance from the Town,

worthie

to be seen,

and particularlie,

1. <EM>Murain</EM> about a Mile

Northward from the City. It is

well built

and many good Houses

in it; It is

in this Island, that all those famous

Crystall

Glasses

so much talked

of, and so much sought

after throughout the World, are

made.

It is

observed

here, that the Glass-works

succeed much better on the one side of the Street than on the

other. They have likeways

a great Art of whitneing Wax, which

is

observed

to succeed better in this Island

224

than any other place in or about the City. There are abundance

of Oysters

likeways

in this Island; they ordinarly

keep them

in Baskets

near the Shoare,

to have them

in readiness when they are called

for, but in my opinion they are neither so pleasant,

no<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> so

wholesome as at <EM>Lighorn</EM> and other

places,

especiallie

being

eaten

raw, for I have often found the

eating

of them

so, to give a verie

troublesome Flux of the Belly to

severall

Persons.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Isle of St <EM>Helena,</EM> where there

is

a verie

statelie

Monasterie

&amp; Church, with <EM>Monks</EM>

of the <EM>Order</EM> of <EM>Mont

Olivet.</EM> In this Church

is

keept

the Body of the <EM>Emperess</EM> St <EM>Helena.</EM> This

Isle lyes

to the Eastward of the Town, and about two

Miles

further the same way, stand the two

Forts

<EM>del L<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>do</EM>

and <EM>Casielnovo,</EM>

which both defend them

selves

mutuallie,

and secure the entrie

to the City from Enemies

in time of War&#0183; <EM>3ly. Malamocco,</EM> where all

Ships

and Vessels

of anie

considerable Burden do Arrive because of the deepness of the

<EM>Harbour. 4ly.</EM> The

Isle of St. <EM>George,</EM> lying

225

just before the place of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> at half a

Miles

distance, where there is

an

<EM>Abbace</EM> of the <EM>Order</EM> of St.

<EM>Benedict,</EM> with a most Stately and Glorious Church,

together with a Garden and fair

Walks,

which is

thought no small thing in that Place.

</P>

<P>Altho'

a Traveller cannot be alltogether

sure of his times,

there being

so many Contingencies

that may force him

either to Arive

too soon or too late; yet it were

to be wished

that a Man might happen to be at <EM>Venice</EM> in the time of

<EM>Carnoval,</EM> because of the <EM>Opera</EM>'s and fine

shows

that are to be seen,

and the Extraordinarie

Musick

at that time. In the <EM>Summer</EM>

time the great Divertisement is

to go in Gondole upon the great

Canale,

where towards

the Evening, one may see Five, or six hundred Gondols

touring

up and down, full of Ladies

and Gentlemen,

&amp; severalls

of them

with Musick,

both Vocal and Instrumental; which

is

one of the greatest

<EM>Gusto's</EM> imaginable.</P>

<P>

You cannot miss to meet with a great many

Curiosities

here, both Natural and

226

<EM>Artif<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cial,</EM>

because of the great resort that

Strangers

have to this Place, especiallie

from the <EM>Levant;</EM> you will find

<EM>Medals,

Intaleo's, Chamaeo's</EM> &amp;c. amongst the

Goldsmiths.

I have seen

severall

Curiosities

to sell in the place of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> and sometime within

the Court of the Palace, and

in many other corners

throughout the City. You

may meet with maby

Curiosities

of <EM>Glass,</EM> that are both

usefull

and delightfull.

It will be worth your while to Visit the

Book-sellers

Shops,

for besides

many Curious Books,

that you may light upon here, and

particularly

of <EM>Botany;</EM> you may likeways

find verie

many Books,

that are prohibited

in many other places

of <EM>Italy.</EM> Be pleased

to inquire diligently

for a thin 40. called

<EM>Trattato de simplici Pietre. &amp; pesci marini

che

nascono del lito di Venetia di Antonio Donati Farmacopeo

all'insegn<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

di St. Liberale

in Venetia</EM> 1631. Printed

by <EM>Pietro Maria Bertano. Donati</EM>

himself

was

Dead before I came

thither, but I found out his Brother, a Man of the

227

same Profession and living

at the same place, but nothing knowing

in <EM>Simples.</EM>

After I had

told

him

the respect I had

for his Brothers

<EM>Memorie,</EM>

and my regrate for the loss of so

worthie

a person; he was

pleased

to show me a great many <EM>Brass-Plates</EM>

of so many <EM>Plants</EM>

not yet described,

together with their description

done

by his Brother; I am

confident were

they Published,

they would make a bigger

Volume than the first. They

were

in Confusion when I

saw

them,

but I put them

in Order and prayed

him

to keep them

so, untill

he should find the opportunitie

of printing

them,

which I found him

willing to do at his own Expense, nor to trust it with

an

other, least his Brothers

name should have been

stolen

from it. If it be not as yet printed,

you may see what you can do, either to purchase the Manuscript

and <EM>Plates,</EM>

or promise the printing

of it.

</P>

<P>There are many Virtuosi

in the City, that have great Collections

of fine things

which you may be pleased

to inquire after and see.</P>

<P>

228

From <EM>Venice</EM> you have twentie

five Miles

to <EM>Padua,</EM> whereof fo<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>r

by <EM>Berg</EM> to the <EM>Terra ferma,</EM> and the rest you

go by Boat, drawen

with Horses

by the River <EM>Brent,</EM> which

is

a most pleasant and soft running

River, having

plain, Fertile &amp; most delicious

Fields

on either side, full of Villages

&amp; pleasure-Houses,

to which the Inhabitants

of <EM>Venice</EM> use to resort in the <EM>Summer-Time.</EM>

</P>

<P>The River runs

not all of a Levell,

&amp; therefore there are three or four

<EM>Locks</EM>

or <EM>Sluces,</EM>

by means

whereof, at severall

places

the <EM>River</EM> is

made

portable; which otherways it would not be. There

is

such an

other <EM>Lock</EM> upon the <EM>Canale</EM>

of <EM>Briar,</EM> near to <EM>Montargis</EM> in

<EM>France.</EM> You will more easilie

understand the manner of them

by seeing

them,

than by any description I

can make of them.</P>

<P>

<EM>Padua,</EM> in Latine

<EM>Pattavium.</EM> Is

a very Ancient and Large Town; famous over the World, for

its

<EM>Vniversity;</EM>

whence it is

called

<EM>Padua la dotta.</EM> There are many

things

considerable in the Town fit to be

seen

and take notice of. As 1. The

229

Churches

as namely that of S. <EM>Sophia,</EM> that of

<EM>Justino,</EM> which is

all Pavemented with white &amp; red Marble; there

is

an

<EM>Abbacy</EM> joyning

to it of the <EM>Order</EM> of St. <EM>Benedict;</EM> the

Reformation of which Order did

begin first here. It was

Anciently

the Temple of <EM>Concord.</EM> The place before the Church

is

very large &amp; spacious. They say ten Thousand

Men

might be drawn

up within it. The Church of St. <EM>Antonia de Lisbon,</EM>

is

notably

designed,

and hath

many Rich things

belonging

to it; many Relique's, but amongst others the most

considerable is

the Body of St. <EM>Antonia,</EM>

commonly

called

of <EM>Padua,</EM> because he Died

and was

in<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erred

here. There is

great a Devotion payed

to this <EM>Sainct,</EM>

and a great concourse

dayly

to the place, as well of the Inhabitants

of the Town, as of <EM>Pilgrims</EM>

that come from other places.

They use to kiss the <EM>Marble-Stone</EM> that

covers

his Sepulchre; and they say

it smels

of Musk. <EM>2ly.</EM> The palace of Justice, which

is

most stately. The Stairs

are all of <EM>Marble</EM> covered

with <EM>Lead</EM> without the support of

any Pillar. The great

<EM>Hall</EM> is

256 foot in

230

length, and 86 foot in breadth, and very well

painted,

and at the end of it, that Statue of <EM>Titus Livius,</EM>

whose Tomb is

likeways

to be seen

in the Town. <EM>3ly.</EM> The Schooles,

which is

a very stately Fabrick,

being

a 4 square court, where you will see a great many of the

Statues

or <EM>Busta</EM>'s, Names

&amp; Arms

of so many Consuls,

that have been

of the several Nations

that compose the <EM>Vniversity;</EM>

the <EM>Scholars</EM>

here have large <EM>Priviledges,</EM>

and many times

abuse them,

and become very insolent, insomuch that they have

been

sometimes

known

to threaten

the <EM>Podesta</EM> himself or

Governour

of the Town; they have, likeways

a beastly custome

of carrieing

Arms

in the Night, insomuch that it is

never safe to be abroad after it hegins to be Dark, for many

are this way unhappity

Murthered

without any Offence given

or taken,

but only by wantoness, or rather

Wickedness of the Scholars.

<EM>4ly.</EM> The Physical Garden, which

is

exceedingly

fine, not so much for the number as rareness of the

<EM>Plants.</EM>

You may easily

make your addrefs to the Professor that

231

keeps

the Garden who in my time was

the <EM>Excellentissimus Signeur Tore,</EM> but the Gardener

will be sufficient to do your turn, for in

giving

him

a small peece

of Mony,

you will command both <EM>Seeds,

Plants,</EM>

and all that he hath.

We have a very worthie

Gentleman of our Countrie,

called

Doctor <EM>Cadenhead;</EM> in my time he

was

Publick

Professor of <EM>Logick

nel Bo,</EM> which is

the Publick

<EM>Schooles.</EM>

He is

a most courteous and obliging

Gentleman, and will be ready to do you all the

kindness's Imaginable.

<EM>5ly.</EM> You may see the Hospitals

for sick Folk, and many other things,

which for Brevities

sake I omit, only I intreat you be at the

paines

to Visit the Book-sellers

Shops;

and if there be any new thing in

Physick,

since the 62 or 63 Year of God, I intreat you to bring

them

along with you for me, especialy

if there be any thing of <EM>Rhodius,</EM> who

hath

promised

us his commenta<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s

upon <EM>Cornelius Celsus</EM> long ago.

</P>

<P>

If you please, you may make a little Journey to the

<EM>Euganean</EM> Hils,

which are not far from <EM>P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>dua.</EM>

There is

very good

232

Herborsing upon them.

It will be worth your while, likeways

to see <EM>Abbano,</EM> a Village 3. or 4

Miles

distant from <EM>Padua;</EM> famous for

its

Natural Baths.

At the end of the Village there

is

a little rising

or <EM>know;</EM> upon the Top of which there are a great many

Springs

of hot Water, some where of are

scalding

hot. The Water

is

convoyed

by little Conduits

to several Houses

about, where Baths

are keept

for sick People, but the greater

part of it is

convoyed

the other way by a trough, where, at the distance of a Musket

shot, it moves

a Milne. The water it self is

whitish, having

a white slimy substance in

it, which it deposes

every where, where it runs,

and which in process of time becomes

as hard as a Stone; in so much that the Miln-Wheel, and all

the Wood that is

toucht

by it, becomes

crusted

as it were

with <EM>Marble;</EM> and if it be not

broken

of timeously,

it stops

the Motion of the Wheel just as

<EM>I<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eicles</EM>

use to do with us. The Country about

<EM>Padua</EM>

is

very Plain and exceedingly

Fertile, insomuch that they

use to say, <EM>B<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lognia

233

la grassa, ma Padua la passa;</EM> yet the Wine

is

not good, but a red small Claret-Wine such as they use at

<EM>Venice</EM> for ordinarie

drink. When you ha<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

past some time at <EM>Padua,</EM> and

satisfied

your self, of all that is

to be seen

and known

there, it will be time to set <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>orward

for <EM>Milan.</EM>

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Padua to Verona.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Mil<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s</LI>

<EM>Vicenza </EM>

<LI>17</LI>

<EM>Montebello </EM>

<LI>12</LI>

<EM>Scaldere </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Veron<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>12</LI>

</UL>

<P>

In going

from <EM>Padua</EM> to <EM>Vicenza,</EM> you will do well to

turne

a little out of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

way to see a place called

<EM>Gus<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>so,</EM>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

is

a House of Pleasure belonging

to a <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>r<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ticular

Person, where, besides

many <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>riosities,

of Gardens

&amp;c. there is

p<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ticular

wayes

of conveying

the Win<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> the

<EM>Caves</EM>

below to the upper <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

234

which makes

a Delicat <EM>Fresco</EM> in the

greatest

heats

of Summer. It stands

at the foot of a very great <EM>Mountain,</EM> under which are

the vastest

and biggest

<EM>Caves</EM>

I ever saw;

but seem not to be Natural, but rather

Quarries,

out of which the greatest

part of the Stone that <EM>Vicenza</EM>

has

been

built

with, has

been

taken.

In one place of these <EM>Caves,</EM>

there is

a little Well made

by the Water that drops

from the Top of the <EM>Cave,</EM> which

petrifies

any Wood, Straw &amp;c. that lyeth

any time in it, and yet the Water

keeps

clear it self, without

congealing.

Near to the City of <EM>Vicenza,</EM>

upon your left hand, you wil

see a delicat Peece

of <EM>Architecture,</EM> made

by the famous <EM>Architect Vinogli,</EM> which

is

likeways

designed

in his Book; It is

only a House of Pleasure, and stands

upon a considerable hight from the City,

discovering

all the Country round about.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Vicenza</EM> is

a good large Town, having

many fine Churches

and Palaces,

with a large place for Tilting

and other Exercises:

there is

likeways

in it a Noble Theatre built

by <EM>Vinogly:</EM> the Country about

is

exceedingly

235

Fertile, and abounds

with all sort of good Fruit, and

is

therefore called

the <EM>Garden of Venice.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>Verona</EM> is

an

easie

days

Journey from <EM>Vicenza;</EM> It

is

an

Ancient City, large and well built,

having

many stately Palaces,

Churches

&amp;c. &amp; an

old <EM>Amphitheatre,</EM> yet more

intire

than any other in <EM>Italy.</EM> The Town

is

divided

in two by the River <EM>Adice,</EM>

it is

wel

Fortified,

having

13 <EM>Royal

Bastions,</EM>

and three <EM>Castles;</EM>

the two parts

of the Town, are conjoyned

by 4 large <EM>Stone Bridges.</EM>

There is

excellent Herborizing upon the Hils

near to the City, but especially

upon the <EM>Monte baldo,</EM> which

is

about 20 Miles

distant from this City, and which

is

described

at great length by <EM>Joannes

Pona,</EM> whose Book I suppose you have

seen.

The Palace <EM>del Conte Justi,</EM>

is

worthie

the seeing,

together with the

Gardens

and <EM>Grotta's.</EM> Amongst

the rest, there is

one of a Reasonable

Capacitie

built

with that Artifice, that four Persons

being

placed

in the four Corners,

may speake

each of them

to his Neighbour in the opposit

Corner,

236

and yet not be heard

by those that stand in the middle between

them.

In the Palace of the

<EM>Signeur Conte Gregorio Bevila<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>&#0183;</EM>

there is

a Gallerie,

in which you may see a great many fine

Pictures,

Statues,

<EM>Medals,</EM>

and other Rarities.

</P>

<P><FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rom

<EM>Verona</EM> you pass by <EM>la

peso<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eira,</EM>

which is

a strong Fort, upon the River <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

issues

from the <EM>lago di Garda:</EM> from

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> you go to

<EM>Dissanzano,</EM> which tho'

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> big Town, but

rather a Village, I look upon it as one of the

pleasantest

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> in

<EM>Italy;</EM> being

upon the side of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>lago di Garda,</EM> a Lake not so

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> as long, for

in length it reaches

to <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Rhetici.</EM> The Country about

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> and Fertile,

and the Lake it <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ounds with

all sorts

of Excellent <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

such as <EM>Pykes,

Pearches,</EM>

red and <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Trouts

&amp;c. and of all there are <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

very big. In my time there was

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rench-man,

that keept

a very good <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

where we had

excellent Fare <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

of fish and Flesh, and the best Wine

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> the whole

State of <EM>Venice,</EM> and all at

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> Rate.</P>

<P>

237

From <EM>Dissanzano,</EM> you go to

<EM>Bre<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cia,</EM>

which is

not above half a days

Journey distant from <EM>Dissanzano.</EM> It

is

a large and very strong Town, especialy

the Castle thereof

placed

upon a Hill, that Commands

the Town. It is

famous for making

of <EM>Guns,</EM>

and <EM>Pistols,</EM>

especialy

the <EM>Cannons</EM>

of them,

which are the best I ever saw

by farr.

If you have the opportunity

of carriage, it would be worth your while to make Provision

for your self here. If you resolve to make your return, not to

<EM>Lions</EM>

but, throw <EM>Switzer-Land</EM> and <EM>Germany,</EM> down

the <EM>Rhen,</EM> &amp; so throw <EM>Flanders</EM> and

<EM>Holland,</EM> then it will be

fitt

when you are at <EM>Bol<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>gnia</EM>

to go up the <EM>Po,</EM> by <EM>Modena, Parma,

Piazz<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>nza,</EM>

and so to <EM>Millan,</EM>

and from thence to <EM>Turrin,</EM> and then back to

<EM>Millan</EM>

again, and so returne

by the other way of <EM>Bergamo, Brescia, Dissanzano, Verona,

Vicenza</EM> and <EM>Padua</EM> to <EM>Venice,</EM> by which

means

you will not only see the sweetest

and most Fertile places

of <EM>Lumbardie,</EM>

but also have the commoditie

of bringing

what ever you find in all that

238

way to <EM>Venice,</EM> from whence it may

easily

be Convoyed

into <EM>England.</EM> From <EM>Bres<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

to <EM>Bergamo</EM> you have a dayes

Journey: You must Dine at a Place

called

<EM>Pallazolo;</EM> It is

a little inconsiderable Town. I

remember we

had

a Letter of Recommendation

from the Duke of <EM>Norfolks

Major-Domo</EM> at

<EM>Padua,</EM> to a Gentleman in this place, who

was

exceedingly

Civil to us &amp; sent

us a Present of excellent Wine, &amp; (which

was

of farr

greater

importance to us) gave

us the assurance of the peaceableness

of the Countrey

&amp; security of Travelling,

which sometimes

is

not without the danger of being

robbed;

it being

near the Frontiers

of the state of <EM>Millan:</EM>

&amp; in such cases,

it is

usual for Rogues,

when they have done

a Mischief to pape into the next state, where the

Laws

of the other State cannot reach

them.

The project of our recommendation,

was

to have been

conducted

by this Gentleman on our way; if there

had

been

any such need. He willingly

profered

it, but we, upon the assurance he

gave

us did

as willingly

deny to accept it.

</P>

<P>

139

<EM>Bergamo</EM> is

situated

upon the side of a Hil,

Fortifie

with 9 <EM>Bastions</EM>

besides

the <EM>Castle,</EM> which is

extreamly

strong. There is,

as I take it, in the <EM>Dominicans</EM>

a Rare <EM>Bibliotheque,</EM>

Collected

by the great expense of <EM>Alexander Martinengo,</EM> You

will do well here to exchange all your <EM>Venetian</EM> Money

into <EM>Spanish</EM> Money, &amp; such as will pass into the

State of <EM>Millan.</EM>

You have a Days

Journey from hence to <EM>Millan,</EM>

and must Dine at a Place called

<EM>Villa nova:</EM> as soon as ye have

Dined,

you pass the River <EM>Tesin:</EM> And then enter the State of

<EM>Millan.</EM>

</P>

<P>As you enter the State of <EM>Millan,</EM>

you will find some Searchers

or wayters

of the Custom-House, to whom

you must give some small thing to let your Baggage pass, or else

you may be troubled

with them.</P>

<P>

The State of <EM>Millan,</EM>

altho'

but small in extent, is

yet one of the pleasantest

&amp; Fertilest

places

in <EM>Italy.</EM> The Country is

very Plain. The High-ways

for the most part very large and straight,

planted

with <EM>Trees</EM>

and <EM>Hedges,</EM>

on every side,

240

and having

Canales of water, for the most part, on every side; and

Travellers

have this Advantage also to meet with better

<EM>Inns</EM>

and better accommodation here than on any other Road in

<EM>Italy.</EM> The Inhabitants

are not given

to mutiny and Rebellion as

those of <EM>Naples,</EM> but willingly

submit to their Prince. It is

said

that the King of <EM>Spaine</EM>

Governs

the Kingdom of <EM>Sicilie</EM>

with mildness: <EM>Naples</EM> with

subtilitie

and the Dutchie

of <EM>Millan</EM>

with Authoritie.

They say likeways

that the inferior Governours

of <EM>Sicilie,</EM>

only but Gentlie:

Those of <EM>Naples</EM> eat lustilie,

but that in <EM>Millan</EM>

they devoure.

I have observed

throughout all <EM>Italy,</EM> that the

greatest

part of the <EM>Inn-keepers</EM>

and <EM>Taverners</EM>

even in <EM>Rome</EM> it self are

<EM>Milanese:</EM> as also

that the greatest

part of the Masons

that serve all <EM>Italy,</EM> are of this

Countrie:

and it is

a verie

great Mark both of their love to their

Countrie

and loyaltie

to their Prince, that when they are not able to get so much by

staying

at home, as to entertain their Wives

and Children,

and pay Publick

Burdens,

they

241

are contented

to live abroad most part of their

lives,

and returne

that home which they Gaine

abroad; for they never

carrie

their Wives

with them,

nor Children

till they be able to Gaine

for themselves: Onlie

it may be they make them

a Visit sometimes.

The Citie

of <EM>Millan,</EM>

which is

Capital of the Dutchie,

is

one of the stateliest

in <EM>Italy:</EM> it is

near ten Miles

in compass, but a considerable part of it,

especiallie

toward the Walls,

is

Gardens.

The Streets

are large &amp; handsome;

Many statelie

Churches

and Palaces:

But I shall Mark them

a little more particularly

as I have done

in other Towns:

And 1. to begin with the Churches,

It is

said

there are above 230 in the Citie

and Suburbs,

whereof 96 are parochial: 40 Convents

of Religious

Men,

and 50 of Religious Women.

The Cathedral Church called

<EM>il Domo,</EM> is

one of the greatest

and most Glorious in <EM>Italy</EM> except St.

<EM>Peters</EM>

at <EM>Rome.</EM> It is

intirely

built

of white <EM>Marble</EM> within &amp; without, but that which

is

to be pitied

is,

that the design is

<EM>Gothick;</EM>

it is

not yet

242

quite finished;

but they are still at work, and you may guess when they are

like to come to an

end, they haveing

been

up wards

of 200 Years

at work allreadie.

There are above 600 <EM>Marble</EM>

statues

about the

Walls,

everie

one of which cost at least 1000

Crowns,

amongst which the statue of <EM>Adam</EM> and St.

<EM>Bartholomew</EM> are much esteemed,

especiallie

the latter which is

thought to be one of the best in <EM>Europe.</EM> The Pend of

the Church is

supported

by 160 white <EM>Marble</EM> Pillars,

each of them

of that bigness, that scarcelie

can three Men

fathom them.

It is

believed

that they stand not under 10000

Crowns

a peece.

All the rest of the parts

of the Church are correspondent in Magnificenee, only it

appears

to me to be somewhat darker

than need were.

Amongst many other things

that are considerable in this Church

is

the Body of St. <EM>Charles Boromeus</EM> in a

Chappel

under Ground. It

hath

a Lamp burning

before it, and you look down through

an

Iron Tirles from the Church to see it. You may see the Head

and Feet,

but the

243

rest of the Bodie

is

covered

with his pontificall

Habit. There is

a rich Treasure belonging

to the Church, where you will see, amongst other

things&#0183;

a Silver statue of the same St. <EM>Charles</EM> in his

Pontifical Habit, with many

precious Stones

of great Value upon the Myter

thereof. It was

presented

by the Jewellers

and Goldsmiths

of <EM>Millan.</EM>

In the Church of St. <EM>Ambrose,</EM> you may see a Pillar in

the middle of the Church, upon which

stands

the <EM>Brazen Serpent</EM> that

<EM>Moses</EM>

elevated

in the Wilderness. You may likeways

see two statelie

Tombs,

one of the Emperour

<EM>Luis,</EM> and the other of <EM>Pepin</EM> King of

<EM>Italy,</EM> both Sons

of <EM>Charles</EM> the Great. Here also you may see the

Chapel where St. <EM>Augustine</EM>

was

Baptized.

In the Church of St. <EM>Satyre,</EM>

upon the great Altar there is

a Picture of the blessed

Virgin with the Babe <EM>Jesus</EM> in her

Armes,

of which they tell a wonderfull

Story, that it being

placed

upon the Church-Yard-Wall, a certain Gamester

called

<EM>Massario Vigonzonio,</EM> being

mad to have lost

his Money, struck

the little <EM>Jesus</EM> with a

poynard,

244

whereupon immediately

there gusht

out abundance of Blood, after which it

was

placed

upon the great Altar where it is

yet to be seen.

</P>

<P><EM>2ly.</EM> The Palaces;

amongst the rest that of the Governour.</P>

<P><EM>3ly.</EM> The Hospitals;

which are said

to entertain above 9000 poor People all the Year long, at the

expence

of the Publick.

That which is

called

the great Hospital, entertaines

alone more than 4000, and so it may, for it

has

three Score ten Thousand Crowns

of Yearlie

revenue. The <EM>Lazaretto</EM>

is

a kind of Hospital without the Walls,

It is

a large Square court about a Mile in Compass, not unlike the

form of the <EM>Carthusians</EM>

Houses;

that are divided

into so many little appartments.

The chief Design &amp; use of it,

is

in the time of the Plague: at other

times

it stands

emptie,

only some few persons

that have the keeping

of it, remaine

there.</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly.</EM> The places

in the Town; chiefly

the Exchange, where the Merchants

meet; there you will see the statue of St&#0183;

245

<EM>Augustin,</EM> and the place where he

taught

Rhetorick

before his conversion to the Christian Faith.

</P>

<P><EM>5ly.</EM> St. <EM>Ambrose</EM>'s <EM>Bibliotheck,</EM>

where not only these Books

that belonged

to St. <EM>Ambrose</EM> himself, but many other

Books

that have been

presented

since, are kept.</P>

<P>

<EM>6ly. Septalie</EM>'s Galerie.

This <EM>Manfredo

Septali,</EM> is

Son to that famous Physician

<EM>Ludovicus Septalius,</EM> who

hath

written

many things,

&amp; learnedly

in Philosophie

and Medicine. He is

at present one of the <EM>Canons</EM>

of the great Church; And one of the

greatest

Virtuosi

in <EM>Italy.</EM> His Studie

of Books

consists

of 2 or 3 Roomes.

His Galerie

of Curiosities

of three Roomes.

The Curiosities

are both Natural and Artificial, of so great a Number and

Varietie,

that I must not insist upon particulars;

but only refer you to the description

thereof in

Latine

by <EM>Paulus Maria Tersagus,</EM> the Book

is

in 40. <EM>Dertono</EM> 1664, and

bears

the name of <EM>Musaeum Septalianum.</EM> He

hath

also an

other Room or two, full

246

of working

Tooles,

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ome for

turning,

others for

Grinding

of optick

Glasses

of all sorts

and Fashion; and here you will see a great Variety of Musical

Instruments.

Most part of the Booksellers

live near to the Exchange, but their Magasins are in

severall

other places

of the Town; you must be carefull

to see them

all. You will undoubtedly

find some to please, on which perhaps you will not

readily

fall else where.

</P>

<P>You will meet with many Curiosities

in this place, especiallie

of <EM>Cristal,</EM>

brought

hither from the Alps, and a Thousand

Conceits,

most delicatly

wrought

of Straw. I have heard

of peeces

of <EM>Cristal,</EM>

with severall

shapes

represented

within them

naturally,

as of Trees,

Flees,

&amp;c. others with a drop of water within

them,

that one might perceive to

move, but is

was

not my Fortune to light on any such.</P>

<P>

<EM>7ly.</EM> The Castle of <EM>Milan,</EM>

is

one of the greatest

Forts

in <EM>Italy,</EM> with six Royal

Bastions,

a large Fossey full of running

water, and within it a second Wall of

247

strength. The Place within will admit of 6000

Men

to be drawn

up, It has

above 200

peece

of <EM>Cannon&#0183;</EM> all sorts

of <EM>Ammunition</EM> and 600 Spaniards

in Garison.

It has

a Water Miln within it for Grinding

of Corn, which is

moved

by the running

Water that fills

the Ditches.

</P>

<P>At a Miles

distance from the Town, there is

a Privat

Gentlemans

House, where the <EM>Echo</EM> is

so excellent that it repeats

above 40 times,

which you may try, ether by speaking

Loud or otherways with a Trumpet; but the

surest

way is

with Pistol Shot, for then you may

distinctly

tell to 40, one after another.</P>

<P>

The <EM>Carthusians</EM>

have a stately Monastery at

10 Miles

distance from <EM>Millan,</EM>

wihin five Miles

of <EM>Pavia,</EM> which hath

500000 Crowns

of Yearly revenue; The Monks

use to entertain Strangers

for one Night. The Church is

of a most Delicat Fabrick

and very Rich. If you please you may go from hence to

<EM>Pavia,</EM> Anciently

<EM>Ticinum,</EM> and afterward

called

<EM>Pavia.</EM> The Town is

very strong and stands

upon the <EM>Tesin&#0183;</EM>

248

It is

the Chief <EM>Vniversity</EM>

of the Dutchie

of <EM>Millan,</EM>

but because I was

not in it my self I cannot say much of it, only I have

heard

that in the great place of the City

stands

the <EM>Brazen Statue</EM> of the

Emperour

<EM>Constantine,</EM> or as some think of <EM>Antoninus,</EM>

very much esteemed.

If you list to go thither I believe it may be well worth your

seeing,

because of the <EM>Vniversity,</EM>

for, for any thing I know, there may be both good

Books,

and a <EM>Physical</EM> Garden

there.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Millan</EM>

to <EM>Turin,</EM> you have about 73

<EM>Miles.</EM></P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Millan

to Turin.</H4>

<EM>Buffalora </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Novara </EM>

<LI>16</LI>

<EM>Vercelli </EM>

<LI>15</LI>

<EM>S. Germano </EM>

<LI>13</LI>

<EM>Ci<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>uas

</EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Turin<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>10</LI>

</UL>

<P>

You have two <EM>Rivers</EM>

to pass, by Boat

249

<EM>viz.</EM> the <EM>Dorn,</EM> after you pass

<EM>Vereelli</EM> and the <EM>Tesin</EM> near to

<EM>Ci<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>uas:</EM>

Near to <EM>Vercelli</EM> you enter into <EM>Piedmont,</EM>

&amp; there you will meet with waiters

or Customers

to whom

you must give some thing, and before this time it will be

fitt

that you have changed

all your <EM>Spanish</EM> Money

except it be

Pistols,

or half Pistols

of Gold, for these will pass any where, either in

<EM>Piedmont</EM> or <EM>France.</EM> When you Arrive at

<EM>Turin</EM> you will think your self

allready

in <EM>France,</EM> for their Apparel,

Customs

and Discourse, are almost altogether <EM>French.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>Turin, Augusta Taurinorum</EM>

is

the Capital City of

<EM>Piedmont,</EM> and is

situated

in a Plain about 20 Miles

distant from the Alps; having

the <EM>Po</EM> on the one side and the <EM>Dorn</EM> on the

other. The Dukes

of <EM>Savoye</EM>

keep their Court here, and have

made

it both very pleasant &amp; very strong: There

is

the old and new City, which is

very well and regularly

built.

It is

compassed

with <EM>Royal Bastions,</EM>

and Walls.

It hath

a <EM>Citadale,</EM> consisting

of 5 strong <EM>Bastions.</EM>

They say it is

after the Model

250

of the <EM>Citadale</EM> of <EM>Antwerp.</EM> The great Church

is

called

the <EM>Domo,</EM> where amongst

other relicts

is

keept

and had

in Veneration the <EM>Sanctum Sudarium,</EM> upon which the

<EM>Visage</EM> of our Saviour &amp; the

greatest

part of his Body is

impressed.

There is

a famous <EM>Vniversity</EM>

here, &amp; this is

said

to be the first Town in <EM>Italy</EM> that

had

the first use of Printing.

The Castle serves

now the Duke for a Palace. There

is

a rare Galerie

to be seen,

with many fine <EM>Pictures,

Antick

Statues</EM>

&amp;c. and a great Collection of

<EM>Manuscrips.</EM>

Amongst the new Buildings

the Royal Place is

considerable; the

walks

thereof being

full of Shops

and Merchandice

of all sorts.

You may likeways

see the <EM>Valentine,</EM> which

is

a beautifull

Palace, built

by <EM>Madam Royal</EM> a little beneath the Town upon the

Bank of the <EM>Po&#0183;</EM> In the

Suburbs

of the <EM>Po,</EM> there is

a House called

<EM>Albergo</EM> worthie

the seeing,

because of the many excellent

Manufactories

of Silk, and other Stuffs

that are made

there.

</P>

<P>

251

I leave the rest to your own observa<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ion,

that <EM>I</EM> may haste to bring you over

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>he Alps;

the ordinarie

way is

to Tra<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>el

with the Messenger to <EM>Lions</EM>

or to <EM>Ge<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eva.</EM>

We came

to <EM>Lions.</EM>

It is

a Jour<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ey

of 8 or 9 dayes.

The first day we <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>arted

from <EM>Turin</EM> about ten a Clock in

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>he

forenoon, and came

to lye

all Night <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ome

10 or 12 Miles

from <EM>Turin,</EM> having

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>llready

entered

into one of the Vallies

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>hat

leads

to the foot of the Hill; the next day we

Dined

at an

other little Village hard by the foot of the Hill,

cal<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ed

<EM>Monte Cene,</EM> here we hired

Mulets to <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>arrieus

up the Hill; it being

impossible for our Horses

to do it. You must likeways

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ire

Men

to carrie

you down on the other side of the Hill, because it

is

a great deal too far to walk, and the way that the Horse

goes,

is

farr

about, because of the steepness of the Hill. And yet

<EM>I</EM> mnst tell you that the Hill

is

three times

steeper

and less accessible on the <EM>Italian</EM> side than on the

<EM>French</EM> side. As you mount the Hill, at first you will

find the soyle

somewhat fertile at least wayes

for

252

pasturage and abundance of Wood; but when you are

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ot

higher

you will find nothing but Rocks,

&amp; Shrubs,

here &amp; there; there is

a little beck in the face of the Hill, where there

stands

a few Houses,

or rather corbie

nests;

a habitation which some People have

chosen

for the benefit they may make

by Accommodating

Strangers

that pass that way, for they are all

Victualing-Houses,

and (as I take it) a Smith or two. When you pass this and

continue still to <EM>Mount,</EM> you will be about the middle

Region of the Air, and it's a hundred to one; but you may see

<EM>Clouds</EM>

enough beneath you, &amp; it may be the Rain

falling

from them;

and then you will begin to find it cold what ever time of the

Year it be, and the the higher

you go it will still&#0183; be the

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>older,

till you come to the very highest

pitch you are to go, and there you will meet with a little

House, in which one can scarce stand upright, where, if you

have leisure, you will get some Bread &amp; Drink to buy; they

usually

have white Hares

and white Partridges

to sell, and

253

as usuall

it is

for Strangers

to buy them

for curiosities

sake, &amp; have them

dressed

at their next Lodging.

From this you have a Plain of above half a mile in length,

which for the most part is

coveted

with Snow, except in the heat of Summer and then it will be

green in some places

that are most exposed

to the Sunn.

The great Pike of the Hill, which

yo<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> leave

upon the right hand as you enter the plain,

is

above two miles

higher,

and perpetualie

covered

with deep Snow. About the middle of the plain

stands

the ruin of a great House, which <EM>Madam

Ro<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>al</EM>

began

to build, but whither she

finished

it or not, I cannot tell; however I

am

sure nothing but <EM>omnipotencie</EM>

could make a House resist the Rage of so much Wind and Storm,

as that Place is

Subject to. When you come to the end of the plain, there

is

an

other little Victualling

House, but it was

Desolate, when I pass'd. You quite your moulets at the

entrie

into the Plain, and take your own

Horses,

and here you quite them

again, and leave your Messenger

to wait upon them

to the bottom

254

of the Hill, the best way he can, and permit your self to be

carried

by two men

which came

along with you (for according

to the number of the Companie

there comes

two for one from the <EM>Italian</EM> side, as I

hinted

at before) It is

a kind of Barrow, with a litle

Seat, &amp; a back at it, with two little

handles

to hold by, &amp; a foot board for

streaching

your limbs

before you, tyed

at both ends

with a peece

of small Rope, that they set <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ou

upon; &amp; then carrie

you the nearest

way down the Hill, which you would think steep enough for

<EM>Goats</EM>

to climb. They go at the Rate of

an

Ordinary Horse trot, &amp; as they go will trist the

stones

to step upon, which lye

confusedly

here and there, as exactly

as if they were

a paire

of stairs

and yet they will not fall once in 500

times,

and if they should it would be a fall without any great

Perill.

But indeed the danger on the <EM>Italian</EM> side

is

much greater;

there being

great Precipices

on the one hand, where into, if one should fall it

were

impossible to escape, insomuch that I have often

wondred

how any Body durst

255

adventure to climb upon a Beasts

back: and yet is

admirable to see with it what dexteritie

these poor Moulets pick out their way, where scarce any man

could crawle

all four, &amp; how sure footed

they are. But I must returne

to the <EM>French</EM> side, where you may pay off your

porters

when they have brought

you to your Lodging

at a little Village near to the foot of the Hill. The

ordinarie

rate is

a Crown a Head that is,

half a Crown to every Porter.

</P>

<P>

I have told

you the way of passing

the <EM>Mount Cene</EM> at such

Seasons,

of the Year, as there is

little or no Snow: But in the Winter time when the

Snows

are fallen

the Passage is

much more uneasie

&amp; unsafe,

especiallie

if they be newly

fallen,

and the paths

not trod;

for then it is

not only impossible to go without 2 or 3

Guides,

that in case one should drop throw the Snow there may be more

hands

to let fall a Rope and bring him

up again; for

sometimes

that will happen, as when a Courier

is

necessitat to pass upon important

affairs,

&amp; any of the Guides

chance to mistake a step, he will some

256

times

slip down 100 fathom or two. But this

is

not the greatest

Danger neither, for in the

<EM>French</EM> side, from the foot of the

Hills,

you have a whole dayes

Journey and more through a

narrow Valley with a small River in the middle of it, which,

at the foot of the Mount <EM>Cene,</EM> one may

easilie

step over, but it grows

still bigger,

as it advances

throw the Valley; being

increased

by the water that pours

from everie

cleft of the Hills

and Rocks,

which are on everie

side of the Valley, of a prodigious

height, and most precipitious: The current of the River

falling

sometimes

to be on one side of the Valley, and

sometimes

on the other, for the most part

casts

the highway on the contrary

side; So that verie

often you will chance to pass under horrible

Rocks

that hang over the high way, and when the Snow

is

new fallen

and they loaden

with it, the least noise in the World would bring down a whole

Mountain of Snow, So that if a Passinger

were

so caught,

you might look upon him

as buried

till the following

Spring.

</P>

<P>

257

But I shall advise you to choose a fitter Season, and then you

will have the Satisfaction

of Herborising, for the lower parts

of the Hills

are all covered

with Trees

&amp; many sorts

of Plants,

that do not grow Naturalie

in an

other Soil. I confess my Fortune, as to this,

was

ill; for after I past the

<EM>Monte Cene,</EM> we had

a constant deluge of Rain,

till I came

the length of <EM>Chamberrie.</EM> But I must not here

forforget to acquaint you

with an

other particular that

had

almost escaped

me, in time of Snow: and it is

this. When you come to the <EM>French</EM> side

(supposing

the Snow to be frozen

and able to bear above;) there is

a singular way of going

down the Hill, which they call <EM>R<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>masser,

ou se faict

Ramasse.</EM> That is

to have a little hurdle of Wood, upon which the

Passingers

is

placed,

with a little bit of Boord

behind it, upon which the fellow

stands

that Guides

the way, and so you come hurling

down together, at a greater

rate than the swiftest

Horse in the World is

able to go.

</P>

<P>

258

I do not remember to have remarked

any thing worthie

the troubling

you with, upon the way from <EM>Mont Cene</EM>

untill

you come the length of <EM>Momilian,</EM>

except only that the

Inhabitants

near the <EM>Alps,</EM> are troubled

with a certain Disease

called

<EM>Bronchocele,</EM> which is

an

outward

swelling

in their Throats

from the Chin downward, sometimes

to the middle of their Breast,

so that they appear at first to have no Neck or Chin, but one

continued

Thing from their Mouth downward.

It is

exceedingly

hard and easily

affected

with Cold; the cause of it is

believed

to be their continual Drinking

of Snow-water, which runs

continually

from the Neigbouring

Hills.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Montmelian,</EM> is

a Fortress of great strength upon the

Borders

of <EM>Savoye</EM>

near to <EM>Daufin;</EM> it is

the only considerable place for strength in all

<EM>Savoye,</EM>

&amp; stand<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

within 3 leagues

of <EM>Chamberrie,</EM> &amp; within

5 or 6 of <EM>Granoble,</EM> which

is

a Parliament Town, and the

Capital City o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Daufine;</EM> as <EM>Chamberrie</EM>

is

of <EM>Savoye.</EM>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> the

necessity of your occasions

and you<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

259

Engagement to the Messenger oblige you not to go straight to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

it will be very proper to see <EM>Granoble,</EM>

Anciently

called

<EM>Gratianopolis</EM> from the

Emperour

<EM>Gratian:</EM> not that he was

the first Founder of it, but

because he enlarged

it much, and beautified

it. It lyes

in a plain at the foot of the Hill <EM>Chelmont,</EM> and

hath

the River <EM>Isere</EM> on the one side, &amp; <EM>Drac,</EM>

which is

an

impetuous torrent on the other.

A little beyond the <EM>Drac,</EM> there

is

a wonderfull

Curiositie

to be seen;

that is,

a Fountain that burneth

constantly.

The Fields

about the Town are exceeding

Fertile, and carrie

good Wine, but the neighbouring

Hills

are so high, that you may see Snow all the

dayes

of Summer upon their

Tops.

The Manufactorie

of Gloves

and dressing

of Skins

of all sorts

is

much commended

in this City.

</P>

<P>

But the most considerable thing in all this Country to be

seen

is

the great <EM>Charter-House,</EM> so

called

because the General of the <EM>Order</EM>

is

obliged

to Reside here. It is

a statelie

Monasterie,

but stands

in the wildest

place that ever my feet

trod

260

upon. The Reason they give for choosing

this place is,

because St. <EM>Bruno,</EM> the first <EM>Instituter</EM> of

their <EM>Order,</EM> did

pennance

here; It stands

very near the <EM>Mount Chelmount,</EM>

being

three Miles

distant from <EM>Granoble</EM> by a continual ascent. These

three leagues

will take you eight or nine good

Hours

riding,

for in many places

it is

not safe to ride, and you must be

forced

to walk a foot. About the mid-way there

stands

a little inconsiderable Village

of 4 or 5 Houses,

where it wil

be fit to repose a little; you will get Bread and Wine, and

it's fourtie

to one but you may meet with some good

peece

of <EM>sanglier,</EM> which abounds

upon the Hill; being

it is

for the most part covered

with Trees.

When you come within a Mile of the House, you meet with a

great Port and a Porter to wait upon it, who I

suppose

shuts

it in the Night time. Within the Port there

is

a Bridge over a great Cleft, within, which

runs

a little Rivolet;

there is

no possibilitie

of entering

any where on that side, but by this Port, from which you

ascend still to the Monasterie,

but,

261

the way is

easie,

and all within the top<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

of the Hills

covered

with <EM>Oakes,

Beeches,</EM>

and <EM>Firr-Trees;</EM>

within half a Mile of the Monasterie

or some less, stands

their Stables,

Garnels and other Office-Houses,

which indeed are statelie

and well appointed,

for there&#0183; they have lay-brothers

of all Trades

that serve to their purpose, and to this place it

is

that your Horses

are sent

back from the Monasterie

to be <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eept

till your going

away, and if by chance any of your own or

Horse-Furniture

had

been

broken

by the way, or your Horses

lost

a Shooe,

they will be all repaired

next Morning without your desiring

it. They have good store of Hay, and have

made

severall

Closes

near to the Monasterie,

(which stands

on that side of the Hill that hangs

to the Southwest, and consequently

has

most of the Sun for making

of Hay,) having

felled

down all the Wood that grew

upon them.

When you Arrive at the Monasterie,

you alight from your Horses

and then the Porter

desires

you to stay untill

he call the Prefect, who presently

comes

and informs

262

himself of your Names,

Qualities,

Country, and the Occasion of

your coming

(for most part come out of Devotion, and they be but few

Strangers

that come for Curiositie,

but however all are welcome,) which

being

done

he craves

you Patience to acquaint the General, but he very soon

returnes

to conduct you to your apartement,

only you must leave your Swords

and Pistols

with the Porter at the Gate. The

Monasterie

is

verie

large, and they have a different apartment for most

Nations.

We were

carried

into one that was

very convenient, being

a large Room wanscoted about with

Firr-<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ords;

and for Fireing,

every Log of Wood they put on, is

like the End of a Ships-Mast.

Our Beds

for the most part were

at the sides

of the Room within the Wal,

all boorded

abou<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> like

a Ships

Cabbin;

and for Courtens having

two folding

leaves,

which you may shut or leave open at pleasure. Upon our first

Arrival into this Room, we were

presented

with a Collation of very good Wine, Bread, Butter and Cheese;

and then a Guide

263

given

us to conduct us up the Hill, yet half a Mile further, to see

St. <EM>Bruno</EM>'s Chapel, that

stands

in the place where he did

his Pennance

for many Years

together, as they will more

particularly

inform you, &amp; as you

returne

they will let you see another Chapel

Dedicated

to our Lady. By that time you are

returned

to the Monasterie

it will be time to Supp, and then

according

to your number you will be treated

with more or fewer

Dishes.

We were

only six in Companie,

and we had

above 30 Dish of Meat, but there

was

not above three or four Varieties,

except in the way of dressing;

&amp; for that they are admirable. I believe we

had

at least a Dussen of different dishes

of Eggs,

all prepared

in different maners;

the rest were

a few Fishes

and <EM>Fritato</EM>'s, for seeing

they never eat Flesh themselves, it cannot be

exspected

they should give it to any other Body within their

Monasterie.

The next Morning the Prefect conducts

you thorow

the House, shewes

you the different Apartments,

and particularlie

to us was

shown

that of the

264

<EM>English</EM> Nation, which they

used

to Assigne

for them

in former times,

but now because of their

defection from the Faith, they have

given

it to the <EM>German</EM> Nation. They show you

painted

about the Walls

the severall

Torments

&amp; Deaths

inflicted

upon those of thei<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Order</EM> in <EM>England,</EM> in the time of King

<EM>Henry</EM> the 8. &amp; Queen <EM>Elizabeth.</EM> They let

you see the Church, the <EM>Library,</EM>

the <EM>Refectory,</EM> the Religious

<EM>Cells,</EM>

the <EM>Kitchen,</EM> (which is

the best I have seen

in <EM>France</EM> after that of the

<EM>Jesuits</EM>

at <EM>L<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>-Flesch,</EM>)

and lastly

the <EM>Cellers,</EM>

which are well enough furnished,

but nothing so well as those at <EM>Naples</EM> of the same

<EM>Order.</EM> If any Gentleman be desirous to see the

General, and speake

with him,

it will be granted

him,

and he will find him

very Civil. All this being

done

you Breakfast, the Prefect

waits

upon you to the Gate, where your

Horses

attend you, and your Arms

are delivered

you, &amp; so leaveing

a little Drink-Money to the Servan<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s,

(about a Crown a Head for Gentlemen,)

you take leave and returne

again to <EM>Granoble.</EM> I

must only add that

265

all this Hill over there is

excellent Herbarizing.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Granoble</EM> to <EM>Lions,</EM>

you have a Matter of 15 leagues,

in which there is

little considerable.</P>

<P>From <EM>Chamberrie</EM> to <EM>Lions</EM>

there is

16 leagues,

but nothing considerable upon the

way; save only that within 2 Miles

of <EM>Chamberrie</EM> you have only the

<EM>Gabelette</EM> to pass,

which is

a very steep and high Mountain in several

parts

precipicious,

especiallie

on the <EM>Savoy</EM> side, yet you mount that side on your own

Horses,

and must carrie

along with you from <EM>Chamberrie</EM>

Porters

to carrie

you down the Hill, on the <EM>French</EM> side. I think you will

pay but half a Crown for your two

Porters,

and you will find them

as dexterous in their Trade,

as those of <EM>Mount Ceni's.</EM></P>

<P>

Some that have a mind to see <EM>Geneva</EM> pass the

<EM>Alps,</EM> either by the <EM>Mount

Sampion</EM> or the Mount St.

<EM>Bernard,</EM> and so from <EM>Geneva</EM> either go

straight to <EM>Lio<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s,</EM>

which is

a Matter of 26 Leagues,

or else from <EM>Geneva</EM> go to <EM>Chamberrie,</EM> which

is

266

12 Leagues,

and from thence to <EM>Montmelian,</EM>

the <EM>Grand Charterhouse,</EM> and so pass by

<EM>Granoble</EM> to <EM>Lions.</EM>

This is

all that occurs

to my Memorie

at present, concerning

this Journey.

</P>

<P>

In truth I am

very sensible that it might have

been

much more accurat,

had

I been

so diligent as to write of it in the time I

made

the Journey, when all things

were

fresh in my Memorie.

But that occasion being

lost;

<EM>I</EM> had

no more left me, but to Recol<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ect

my Thoughts

as carefully

as I could to satisfie

your desire, &amp; the rather because I

am

hopefull,

it will provoke you to make a more diligent Inquiry

after all

things,

and to set them

down Orderly, without trusting

your Memorie.

This <EM>I</EM> conjure you to do; and assure your self, it

is

one of the greatest

things

<EM>I</EM> will expect from you at your

return. <EM>I</EM> confess,

<EM>I</EM> have been

somewhat prolix in my

narration, but, if you consider the vastness and

Fertilitie

of the Subject, you will find few

Towns

in <EM>Italy,</EM> of which there might not have

been

more said

than I have said

of them

all; &amp; this you

267

will easily

find to be true if you please to make a Collection of those

Books

that are writen

of the Antiquities,

and Curiosities,

of each of them:

For there is

scarcelie

any Town in <EM>Italy,</EM> where, you may not find such

Books.

However such as it is

I offer it you, and wish it were

better for your sake, for whole service it

was

only undertaken;

aud

if it prove acceptable and usefull

to you, I have my designe.

I shall o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lie

add that it had

been

sent

you much sooner,

had

not the Necessitie

of an

Extraordinarie

attendance upon this

<EM>Winter-Session,</EM> so often

withdrawn

me, together with the other Duties

of my Profession, which I was

Obliged

to perform.

</P>

<P>Postscript.</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>A List of those Things,

which I desire The Laird of LEVINGSTONE to procure for me in

Italy.</H4>

<LI>

<P>

1. All the new Books

of <EM>Physick,

Botany,</EM> and that any way relate to the

Historie

of Nature, that have been

printed

since

268

the 64. and of Old Books,

<EM>Aldrovandi's</EM> works

at <EM>Bolognia,</EM> together with any

other he can meet with, that

was

contained

in the first List I gave

him

when he parted

from hence, as also at <EM>Rome</EM> I desire

him

to buy me a Book in <EM>Taildouce,</EM>

containing

all the Antiquities,

<EM>Palaces

Statues,

Churches,

Villa's, Fountains,

Pyramids</EM>

&amp;c. in <EM>Rome.</EM> I would have it of the best,

largest

and finest

Impression; and if you cannot get

them

so in one Book, I would have you take

them

in severall

Fashions

as you can best find them:

You may inquire <EM>appresso Giacomo di Rossi a la Pace in

Roma.</EM> Also <EM>Caroli Avantij, Paraleipomena

Botanica,</EM> if it be to be had,

for I never saw

it, onlie

he promiseth

it in his <EM>Notes</EM>

in <EM>Caenam Baptiste

Fiera</EM> 4. <EM>Patav</EM> 1649.

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

2. At <EM>Florence</EM> I desire that you would remember

to procure me a small Parcel of all the

Varieties

of Stones

you can come by. The readie

way will be to inquire for them

at the Stone Cutters

in the great Dukes

Chapel at St. <EM>Laurence</EM> Church, or else at the

Work-men

that work in Stone for

269

Cabinets

at the Dukes

Gallerie.

But above all, of these two

kinds

of Stone that are most comon

at <EM>Florence;</EM> whereof the one

Represents

Trees,

and Forrests;

the other, Towns

and Villages:

I would have of each two or three large handsome

choise

Peeces,

fitt

to be put in Frames.

I would likeways

have of those peeces

of <EM>Cristal</EM>

that are extraordinarie

for Colour, or otherwayes

that have any Substance, contained

within them;

as water, &amp;c. you may possibly

find such, either at <EM>Florence</EM> or

<EM>Millan,</EM>

or it may be <EM>Venice</EM> or any

other where. There

is

likeways

a Stone called

<EM>Lapis Fungiferus;</EM> It is

a Stone that being

placed

in the Ground produces

large Mushroms;

I had

one of them

given

me at <EM>Rome,</EM> but unhappily

lost

it at <EM>London.</EM> To the best of my

Memorie,

they are commonly

found about <EM>Praenestae,</EM>

commonly

called

<EM>Palestrina.</EM> Some honest Virtuoso, &amp;

particularlie

<EM>Padre Barilieri alla Minerva in Roma,</EM> will tell

you where they may be got;

I have likeways

heard

that they were

in many places

of the Kingdom of <EM>Naples.</EM>

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

270

3. I humbly

desire likeways

some parcel of <EM>Antieails,</EM>

some<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>three

or 4 of the <EM>Antiche

Lucerne</EM>

of the best fashioned

and best preserved.

In my time there was

2 or 3 in the <EM>Piazza navona,</EM> that

sold

such things,

and particularly

an

Old Man, whose Name I have forgot,

that had

whole Cabinets

full of <EM>Intalio</EM>'s and <EM>Medales.</EM> I desire

likeways

some <EM>Intalio</EM>'s that be

truly

<EM>Antique:</EM> the excellencie

of the Impression, and the deepness of it

commends

them,

especiallie

if they be well preserved,

&amp; neither the Stone nor impression

spoiled.

I would likeways

have some <EM>Brass-Medals</EM>

of the <EM>1st.</EM> or second <EM>Magnitude,</EM> that be

well preserved.

There are many things

that commend

<EM>Medals</EM>

to be good, particularly,

1. to be Antique and not Counterfeit. 2. To be well

preserved,

<EM>3ly.</EM> to have a good Reverse;

&amp; it is

to be observed,

that the differences

of reverses

make different Medals,

altho'

they be of the same Emperour,

or Consul, and of the same <EM>Magnitude,</EM> and it

is

likeways

to be observed

that those Emperours

who Reigned

longest

had

the greatest

Varietie

of Medals;

As for Reverses,

the

271

best are such as are least common; as for example <EM>a

Charriot,

a Triumphal Arch, a Trophie

of Warr,

a Man or a Womans Head for the Reverse, two

Faces

on one side, a Galey,

the Instruments

of Sacrifice, an

Amphitheatre, a

Mousolium, an

Elephant, a Lion, a Dolphin,</EM> and many more such that

I cannot remember of; as also a Reverse

charged

with many Figures,

can never be ill, nor one that relates

any known

Historie,

as one that I have of <EM>Titus Vespasian</EM> with a

Palm<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>Tree,

a Slave sitting

at the foot of it, with this Word, <EM>Judea capta</EM>

for the Reverse thereof. But <EM>I</EM> doubt mine

is

only a Copie,

and not truly

Antique. <EM>I</EM> would likeways

have a few <EM>Chamaeo</EM>'s providing

they be not dear; that which commends

them

is

to have the Figures

well done,

and to be well preserved.

The Pretiousnes of the Stone doth

likeways

contribute much to

their Value. In all there, that

is,

<EM>Medales, Intaglias, Chameo</EM>'s, <EM>I</EM> would be

content that ye did

bestow 4 or 5 Pistolls

for me, which tho' <EM>I</EM> confess it be a very small

Summ;

yet you may chance to make a better purchase for it at

<EM>Rome</EM>

272

than any where else for a farr

bigger.

Lastly,

to conclude this Article, <EM>I</EM> would fain have some

of the Ancient Glass, which through time

looks

now as it were

Opal; Nothing will commend it so much as to find

an

intire

vase or <EM>Phiol,</EM> for example a

<EM>Lachrimatory,</EM> such as the

Ancients

used

to cape their own or their Friends

Tears

in.

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P><EM>4ly.</EM> There is

the Face of a Hill near to <EM>Rome,</EM> as <EM>I</EM>

remember, it is

at the End of the <EM>Janicular,</EM> not

farr

from <EM>Cardinal Francis

Barherin's Villa,</EM> that is

full of Shells

of all sorts

<EM>Petrified,</EM>

or if ye please to call them

Stones,

resembling

all the Species of Shells.

By what means

they came

there, <EM>I</EM> leave you to find out&#0183; only

<EM>I</EM> would fain have you to make good Provision of all

the Varieties

of them,

and these as intire

as you can get them.</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

<EM>5ly.</EM> At <EM>Naples I</EM> would desire you to buy

me a couple of black Sashes,

Net-work such as they use. <EM>I</EM> think the best use

to cost 3 or 4 Crowns

a Peece,

and <EM>I</EM> would have the best. <EM>I</EM> would

likeways

have you to buy me at <EM>Luca,</EM> or at <EM>Florence,

I</EM> think you may do it in either, two of the

largest

273

quilted

Silk Stomagers, or Breast-Plates,

such as people use to wear there in

Winter time. And at

<EM>Rome</EM> I intreat you to buy me a Dossen a pair of

Gloves,

<EM>Concia di Roma,</EM> not exceeding

a <EM>Testone,</EM>

or 4 <EM>Julio's</EM> a pair: and at <EM>Venice</EM> two

<EM>pound,</EM> of the best Old <EM>Theriae.</EM> At

<EM>Bolognia</EM> a Dossen or two of

<EM>Soap-Balls.</EM>

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

<EM>6ly.</EM> All the Natural Curiosities

that you can meet with, with your

conveniencie

of <EM>Fowls,

Fish, Insects</EM>

or other <EM>Animals,</EM>

the manner of Ordering,

of which I have written

to you formerly.

I confess these you sent

me from <EM>Paris</EM> were

the best ordered

I ever saw;

but besides

that it is

too Expensive, you will not allways

meet with the Oportunity,

of having

them

so ordered;

therefore it will be sufficient, if the

Skins

(being

carefully

taken

of, and stuffed

with <EM>Flax,</EM> or <EM>Cotten</EM>)

be so preserved:

But for the smaller

sort of <EM>Insects,</EM>

their whole Bodies

will easily

preserve; the Guts

being

first taken

out. Of this kind I would have these <EM>viz.</EM> a

<EM>Viper</EM> or two both the kinds

of <EM>Tarantula, viz.</EM> the <EM>Stellio,</EM> which

is

a kind of <EM>Lizard</EM> Curiously,

Spotted,

but

274

accounted

<EM>Poysonous;</EM>

and the other true one, which is

shaped

like a <EM>Spider:</EM> and what others you think

fitt.

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P><EM>7ly.</EM> Be pleased

to make me some purchase of

Outlandish Curiosities,

especially,

such as are from the <EM>Levant,</EM> of

whatsoever Sort that you

can meet with. Buy me at <EM>Venice,</EM> a

<EM>Stilletto,</EM> and a pair of

<EM>Armenian

Shoos,</EM>

shod with Iron on the heels,

such as they use to wear undermost.</P>

</LI>

</UL>

<P>For the rest I refer you to the <EM>Itinerary,</EM> and shall

earnestly

intreat you to do me the Favour to Remember all my

desires,

as farr

as may Stand with your Convenience, for further I should be very

sorry to trouble you. I do likeways

with much Earnestness Recommend to you those

Particulars,

concerning

my self, mentioned

in such Places

of the <EM>French Itinerary</EM> (which I

sent

you last Year) as you have not yet

seen.

Thus, once again wishing

you all happiness,</P>

<BR>

I Remaine

Your <EM>&amp;c.</EM>

<BR>

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<BR><B>Author:</B>&nbsp;Balfour, Andrew, Sir, 1630-1694.

<BR><B>Title:</B>&nbsp;Letters write [sic] to a friend by the learned and judicious Sir Andrew Balfour ... containing excellent directions and advices for travelling thro&#039; France and Italy, with many curious and judicious remarks and observations made by himself, in his voyages thro&#039; these countreys, published from the author&#039;s original m.s.

<BR><B>Date:</B>&nbsp;1700

<BR><B>Bibliographic name / number:</B>&nbsp;Wing / B552

<BR><B>No. of pages:</B>&nbsp;[14], x, 274 p.

<BR><B>Copy from:</B>&nbsp;British Library

<BR><B>Reel position:</B>&nbsp;Wing / 1582:32

<P><IMG SRC="/images/blackline.gif" HEIGHT="1" WIDTH="680" BORDER="0"></P>

<BR>Letters write [sic] to a friend

<I>335Kb</I>

</DL>

<!--[[03]] Section 3 -->

<P>LETTERS

Write to a Friend, By the Learned

and Judicious Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour,</EM> M. D

CONTAINING

Excellent Directions

and Advices

For Travelling

thro' FRANCE <EM>and</EM> ITALY With many Curious and Judicious

Remarks

and Observations

made

by Himself, in His

Voyages

thro' these Countreys.</P>

<P>Published

from the Author's Original M. S.</P>

<P><EM>EDINBURGH,</EM> Printed

in the Year, M.DCC.</P>

<BR><BR>

<BR><H4>To the Most Illustrious, Most Potent, and Noble

EARLE,

ALEXANDER Earle

of Murray, Lord Doun

and Abernethy, &amp;c.</H4>

<BR><H4>Sometime Lord High COMMISSIONER, And Principal

SECRETARY of State For the Kingdom of Scotland.</H4>

<BR>

My Noble Lord!

<P>

IN all Ages,

discerning

and serious Men,

who knew

best to allow and distinguish things

and Persons,

have made

it their great Complaint, That the

present Generation

did

degenerat

from the former; And that the Generality of

Men

were

too apt and ready to pursue bad

Courses:

And some thinking

Persons

now, are easily

induced

to believe, that, the Days

we live in, the World is

not much mended.

This notwithstanding,

no Time hath

been

known

(how dissolut

soever) wherein some worthy &amp;

vertuous

Men

have not appeared,

who have studied

to improve Natural and Moral

Enduements,

and to pursue Vertue,

preferring

that way to base

Interest, and selfish Ends.

And it is

well known,

that even at this Time, when many &amp; great

Duties

are easily

superceded,

there are here and there some Persons

who worthily

act upon the

Principles

of Honour, Conscience, and Vertue,

maugre all

Discouragements.

Among

whom

Your Lordship (even in your Solitude)

moves

and acts

in a very high and conspicuous Sphere, to that Measure of

lovely Vertue

and Splendor, that Your Friends

and Wellwishers

admire, and

your Enemies

(if You have any) can find no matter of Censure. If there

were

many such in the Nation, it would be no hard mater to retrieve

&amp; bring in Vogue again, these

adequat

Qualities

and Vertues,

which often have rendered

many of our

Countrymen

(endued

therewith) famous and illustrious both at Home and Abroad. In

the mean Time it is

to be wish'd that each man would labour to reform Himself and

his own Ways,

conforming

them

to these excellent

Rules.

And that certainly

at length would make and advance a laudable

Reformation indeed. But it

is

to be feared,

that this would rather prove an

abortive Wish, than that it shall have

its

wisht

for Effect: albeit (to have it so with the World) it should be

a part of our dayly

Prayers,

and come in continually

to Our <EM>Letany.</EM>

</P>

<P>My Lord!</P>

<P>

Whilst You are Enjoying

Your self, and are solaced

with the Comfort of a good

Conscience, in Your Retirement,

making

your self an

Example of

Vertue,

and a Patern

of Honour and Goodness to those who observe you and your

Actions.

I humbly

address <EM>Your

Lordship,</EM> not desiring

to interrupt Your Repose, but

to afford You a litle

divertisement for some of your vacant and

Recreating

Minuts:

By Offering

to <EM>Your Lordships</EM>

Perusal these following

<EM>Sheets,</EM>

and Begging

<EM>Your Patronage</EM> thereto: And I judge I have little

Reason to despair of your

Favour and Acceptance, since <EM>Your Lordship</EM>

was

Pleased

to shew

a more than Ordinary Affection and Kindness to the Author my

Father. And therefore I hope

this little Tract wil

give <EM>Your Lordship</EM> some

Content; and for others I

am

bold to say, I hope well: for many

Persons

of great <EM>Honour</EM> and <EM>Judgement,</EM> have (since

my Father the <EM>Authour</EM>'s

Death) been

sollicitous

to get written

<EM>Copies</EM>

from the <EM>Original,</EM> which

was

indeed perfected

by My <EM>Father</EM> in his Own Time,

without any Design to make it publick.

But my <EM>Father</EM>'s M. S. with all his

<EM>Books</EM>

being

committed

to a certain Person he, without my Privity,

gave

out <EM>Copies</EM>

to <EM>Knowing</EM>

&amp; <EM>Inquisitive Persons,</EM>

as of late I came

to understand, and now these <EM>Copies</EM>

abounding

abroad, and most (if not all) being

defective or incorrect, (to Prevent my <EM>Father</EM>'s

being

abused)

I now send a True <EM>Copy</EM> abroad unto the

<EM>World,</EM> and let it See the Light: And go it must under

<EM>your Lordships

Patronage,</EM> for I am

confident the Design will

succeed the better, and the <EM>Book</EM> will be the more

acceptable to these who Love and Desire the <EM>Knowledge</EM>

of such <EM>curious Maters:</EM>

Nor shal

I diffide its

<EM>Fate,</EM> being

first wellcome

to Your Lordship, to whom

I hereby address the same, most

humbly

and heartily,

and not in course, ingyring upon a Patron, as the custom

sometimes

is.

</P>

<P>

Thus, begging

Your Lordships

Pardon for my Presumption,

I do intreat from your Lordship the Honour to be

accounted,

</P>

<BR>

My Noble LORD,

Your <EM>Lordships</EM>

most humble, Most Faithfull,

most Devoted,

And Obedient Servant, M. BALFOVRE.

<BR>

<BR><BR>

i

<BR><H4>TO THE READER</H4>

<P>IT is

needless to show the many advantages

may be had

from Travelling,

since all are convinced

of it; and the VVisest

of Men

in all <EM>Ages</EM>

have thought this the best way to improve themselves: thus, as

<EM>Homer,</EM> the <EM>Greek</EM> Master,

showes

us, <EM>Vlysses</EM>

followed

this Method.</P>

<BR>

<BR>Qui Domitor <EM>Trojae</EM> multorum providus

Vrbes,

<BR>Et Mores hominum inspexit; latumque per aeqour

<BR>Dum sibi dumsocijs reditum parat, aspera multa

<BR>Pertulit.

<BR>

<P>

And such a one <EM>Homer</EM> drew

his Son <EM>Telemachus,</EM> whose

adventures

have of late been

Painted

by an

excellent Pen, with all the advantages,

requisit

for the education of a good

Man and Excellent Prince.

ii

Indeed, the World is

a Theater, in which we may see not only the different

productions

of Nature, but also all the Arts

&amp; Mysteries

of Government; and all the wayes

of improving

Nature by Art; and every Climate

affords

new <EM>Scenes</EM>

for improving

<EM>Geography, Natural</EM>

and <EM>Civil Historie,

Medicine, Commerce,</EM> and all the

<EM>Mechanick</EM>

Arts.

</P>

<P><EM>Medicine</EM> certainly

is

much improved

this way, for thus <EM>Galen</EM> writes, he

sailed

to <EM>Lemnos, Cyprus</EM> and <EM>Palestina</EM> of

<EM>Syria,</EM> on purpose to see foreign

<EM>Plants,</EM>

and rare Ores

and Mineralls.</P>

<P>

The following

Letters

give you some account, to

this purpose, of these Countries

in <EM>Europe</EM> viz. <EM>England, France</EM> and

<EM>Italy,</EM> which for, Politeness &amp; Civility, for

<EM>Grandeur</EM> and

Magnificence, &amp; for Arts

and Inventions,

and the Publick

incouragements

of them,

farr

excelleth

all the rest. The Author of them,

Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour,</EM> Doctor

of <EM>Medicine,</EM> spent

some fifteen Years

in his Travels,

&amp; Residence in these Countries;

He was

a Man of an

Excellent VVit,

and of a Ripe Judgement, and of a most

taking

behaviour; He had

improven

himself

iii

to the best advantage, with all the

learning

taught

in the most famous <EM>Vniversities</EM>

of these Countries,

had

acquired

their Languages,

and Conversed

with the most famous Man then alive. The

particular Curiosity He

had

to learn every thing that might enrich his mind with

knowledge, was

in his youngest

Years

favoured

with the Example and Instruction of his

eldest

Brother, 30 Years

elder than himself, the Famous Sir <EM>James Balfour,

Lyon

King at Arms,</EM>

who had

a Curious <EM>Bibliotheck,</EM>

had

Collected

in his Cabinet many Curious

Products

of Nature and pieces

of Art, and took

delight to cherish this early

Curiositie

of his youngest

Brother: With this Disposition &amp;

proficiencie

in the Learning

then taught

in his Native Country, He begun

his Travels,

which, in so long a Tract of time he

employed

that way, came

to Qualify him

exceedingly

for performing

all that is

recorded

of him.

[<B>Note:</B>

In the Memoria <EM>BALFOUR<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>A<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>A.</EM>

]

</P>

<P>

When He wrot

these Letters

He had

setled

his abode at <EM>Edinburgh,</EM>

where He Practised

<EM>Physick</EM>

with great Success, &amp;

iv

deservedly

gained

the Reputation of the best Qualified

<EM>Physitian</EM>

in the place, and accordingly

was

employed

by these of the best Rank. About a Year or two after his

settlement here He took

the Resolution of erecting

a publick

Garden for <EM>Plants,</EM>

and a Cabinet of Curiosities:

He had

begun

the last in his own Lodging&#0183;

and was

projecting

how He might establish the other, when He

became

acquainted

with that worthie

Gentleman <EM>Patrick Murray,</EM> Baron of

<EM>Livingstone,</EM> to whom

these Letters

(now publish'd) were

addressed.

This Gentleman designed

so much for the good &amp; Honour of his Country, that I

cannot but in this place do that Justice to his

Memorie

to give the World some Character of

him,

having

been

well acquainted

with him,

&amp; having

had

the happiness to make the Acquaintance, &amp;

beginn

the Friendship contracted

betwixt him,

and Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour,</EM> which

produced

these Letters.

</P>

<P>

This Gentleman had

a particular <EM>Genie</EM> inclining

him

to studie

Natural History, and all the wayes

and means,

how to improve the Arts,

most usefull

to his Countrie;

He

v

had

studied

the <EM>Mathemathicks,</EM> &amp;

delighted

much in the practical part of them,

&amp; employed

much of the Revenue of that plentifull

Estate He had

from his Ancestors,

in purchasing

Instruments,

&amp; Curious Books,

which treated

on these Subjects,

He having

Travelled

over a great part of this Country,

in searching

after the Plants

that grew

wild up and down in it, &amp; withall

having

read severall

writers

on the Plants,

he every Year sent

for new Seeds

of foreign Plants:

He inclosed

a considerable Parcel of Ground, in which He

trained

them

up with great Skill; and before He

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> to his

Travells,

He had

of domestick

and foreign

Plants,

growing

in his Garden at <EM>Livingstone,</EM> above a Thousand: He

was

above thirty six

Years

of Age before He began

his Travells,

and had

fitted

himself by

reading

of <EM>Voyages,</EM>

and such Books

as might best inform him

of what He was

to inquire for, in foreign Countries,

ye<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> He

was

so sensible of the great Advanta<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> that

Learning

Sir <EM>Andrew Balfour</EM> <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ster of,

that He not only inform<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>d

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

him

of the best Books,

fitted

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

vi

and the designe

He had

to Learne

all that might be for the improving

of knowledge, &amp; of the

Arts

usefull

to this Country, but likewise

He obtained

his promise to intertain

a Correspondence with him

whilst He was

in foreign Countries,

by Letters,

upon all Occasions.

These three make a Part of what Sir <EM>Andrew</EM>

wrote.

He had

whilst He was

abroad, bought

up most of the writers

extant upon Plants

and other parts

of naturall

History, and many relating

to the culture of Plants;

He had

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>exactly

learned

all the Plants

then keept

in the Kings

Garden at <EM>Paris</EM> (the most

compleat

that is

in the World, either for the

number or the Quality of the Plants)

or in privat

Gardens

there; and had

travelled

thorough a great part of <EM>France,</EM> when He

was

surprized

with a Feaver,

that he contracted

at <EM>Avignion,</EM>

of which he dyed.

</P>

<P>

He begun

his <EM>Voyage</EM> the <EM>2d.</EM> of

<EM>September</EM> 1668, and

dyed

in <EM>August</EM> or <EM>September</EM> 1671. In these

places

of <EM>England</EM> and <EM>France</EM> He

Travelled

thorough, He gives

a very particular Account, even of the

Dimension

vii

of the Publick

Buildings,

the Remarks,

the distances

of the places;

He gives

an

Account of the Government of <EM>France,</EM> of the

<EM>Peers</EM>

there, &amp; the <EM>Orders</EM>

of <EM>Knighthood;</EM> He

gives

an

account of the Remarkable Manufactories

in <EM>France,</EM> &amp; particularizes

some of the Mines

and Quarries

of <EM>Marble,</EM> and has

an

Account of the <EM>Canale</EM>

for the Communication betwixt the

<EM>Mediterranean</EM>

and the <EM>Ocean;</EM> He shows

the Quality of the Weather,

the Habits

of the People in the

Souths

parts

of <EM>France;</EM> He des<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ibes

the Monuments

of Eminent Men,

&amp; <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> some

of their Sepulchral inscriptions,

and takes

notice of the best Gardens

and of the C<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>iners

of the Curious where He Travelled&#0183;

describing

many particulars

not to be <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>et

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ith in the

printed

Voyages,

and upon this Account his Voyage

deserves

very well to be made

Publick.

</P>

<P>

<EM>As to these Letters

of Sir</EM> Andrew Balfour <EM>now

published,

I shall leave the Judgement

of them

to the Learned,

who may peruse them;

yet this I must say,</EM> There are many

particularities

in them

relating

to Natural History, and the

way of Safe and connient

viii

Travelling,

not to be met

with in the printed

Accounts

of these Countries,

and I am

perswaded

they are of Excelleut use for these who study Natural History,

and Physick,

where they may be informed

where Plants,

&amp; other Subjects

of them,

are to be found in their Native

Places,

and where they may see the <EM>Cabinets</EM>

of the Curious.

</P>

<P>Others will be hereby instructed

in the <EM>Manners,

Orders,</EM>

and <EM>Customes,</EM>

of these People; They will find

likeways

many Curious

Reflections,

which are Pleasant to read, and may give rise to

higher

Considerations.

They will see what Varieties

foreign

Countries

of a different Soil &amp; Temperature

of Air, do afford; severall

of which may be brought

here, and may be made

usefull

to this Country.</P>

<P>

What Sir <EM>Andrew</EM> delivereth

here, is

what he observed,

experienced,

and handled

himself, and none need question the

Relations

in any Circumstance; He was

known

to be a most candid and Ingenious Gentleman, He

gives

his apprehension and Judgment

of the Reasons

&amp; causes:

which was

allways

much valued

by all which

ix

kneDw him;

being

a Gentleman of Excellent

VVit,

and Judgment:

He did

not expect that they should be

printed,

and in his lifetime he would never hear of it; and such

was

his Modesty, he never shewed

them

to any but his most intimate Friends,

and could not be perswaded

to give a Copie

of them,

but since his Death copies

of them

have past from hand to hand, and all who have

seen

them

are very well pleased;

whereupon at the

earnest

intreaty of his Friends,

his Son hath

published

them

in the Stile he found them

writen;

his design was

to render all easie

&amp; intelligible to his Friend he

wrote

them

to; if the <EM>Phrase</EM> &amp;

Language seem in some

places

less ornate, &amp; not so congruous as may be

expected

now, it is

to be remembred,

they were

writen

thirty Years

ago, when he had

been

Fifteen Years

absent from his own Country, &amp;

had

accustomed

himself to speak foreign more Language, than to

Studie

the Elegancie

of his own Native Tongue; &amp; this I think should excuse

him

at the hands

of the <EM>Criticks,</EM>

He Studied

more things

than words,

x

&amp; yet, as all know, He expressed

himself most handsomely

upon all Occasions.

</P>

<P>It was

fitt

this should be Represented:

The rest is

left to the impartiall

Reader, who will meet with so many Remarkable &amp;

usefull

things

in the Letters,

that there is

no doubt of his kind Acceptance of

them.

If these meet with the encouragement

hoped

for, 'tis like, the <EM>Baron</EM> of <EM>Lovingstone</EM> his

observations

in his Travels,

in our Language too, and a

Voyage of another Countryman

of ours,

through <EM>France</EM> and <EM>Italy,</EM>

writen

in a pure Stile of Latine,

may be published

for the satisfaction of such as are Curious of

Travells,</P>

<BLOCKQUOTE>Farewell.</BLOCKQUOTE>

<BR><BR>

1

<BR><H4>LETTER I.</H4>

<BR><H4>CONTAINING

An

Account of what is

remarkable in and about London, &amp;c. And in and about Paris,

&amp;c.</H4>

<BR>

Sir,

<P>

I Cannot inform You of any thing considerable on this side

<EM>London,</EM> except it please you, when you are

got

the le<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>gth

of <EM>Huntington,</EM> to turn six or seven

miles

out of the road to see <EM>Cambridge;</EM>

which I doe truly

think worth the while, in regard it

is

one of the two famous Universities

of <EM>England,</EM> where if it please you, You may take

Notice of the number, structure, and order of the

Colledges,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> but particularly

of the Libraries

and Gardens;

as also of the Book-sellers

Shops

in the town-where possibly

you may meet with something

2

that you shal

not meet with any where els

in order to this it would be convenient to have some letter of

recomendation

or adress

to some member of the University

whom

you might be sure (upon this account) to find very ready to

serve you; I am

sorry that I cannot help you in this particular,

having

never been

in this place my self; But I think if you address your self to

Mr. <EM>Ray</EM> (who wrote

and published

the Catalogue of plants

growing

about <EM>Cambridge</EM>) upon the score of

seeing

that place, and himself as a Person so

deserving

especially

in the knowledge of plants,

of which you are also a verie

great lover; I make no doubt you shall find

him

as ready to oblidge

you there, as you use to be to any

<EM>Virtuoso</EM> here.

</P>

<P>

At <EM>London</EM> I shall advise you to

lodg

in or about <EM>Convent</EM>-garden, as a place most

commodious for your business. I thought it

necessar

to accompany you only with two leters

of recommendation, the one to Dr. <EM>Morisone,</EM>

whom

I think the best <EM>Botanist</EM> in the world, and a most

honest

3

and obliging

friend; By his means

you will easily

see all that is

considerable of Plants

about <EM>London,</EM> and purchase what

seeds

that place affoords.

The other is

to Mr. <EM>Scott</EM> a Book-seller,

dwelling

in <EM>Little-Britain</EM> by whose

means

you may be furnished

with any Book that may be be had

in <EM>London;</EM> and I think as

reasonably

as else-where: notwithstanding you will 'doe well to see other

shops,

as particularly

Mr. <EM>Bees</EM>

and Mr. <EM>Pulleyns,</EM> both of

them

in <EM>Little-Britain.</EM>

</P>

<P>As for the other beauties

of the Court and City I need not say much,

being

you will easily

be informed

of them

upon the place: I shall only hint

at some of the most considerable,</P>

<P>

And first, at <EM>Whythall</EM> be

pleased

to take Notice of the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>anquetting-house;

you will find it of a stately fabrick,

such as the late King designed

to have all the Palace of; it was

built

by King <EM>James,</EM> the historie

of whose diefication you wil

find Painted

on the roofe

within, by the noble artist <EM>Rubens,</EM> only you will

find the Figures

too big, occasioned

by the

4

Painters

misinformation concerning

the Hight of the Room, which he

was

made

beleeve

to be greater.

The King's privy Rooms

are worth the seeing,

because of their excellent Ornaments

of Hangings

and Pictures.

</P>

<P>2 The Palace of <EM>Westminster,</EM> in which I find the

great Hall only considerable for

its

great breadth and artificiall

roof.</P>

<P>3. <EM>Henry</EM> VII. Chappel

and the tombs

in and near it.</P>

<P>4. You will do well upon some

Holyday

(if any happen during your abode there) to see the King at

Divine service, in regard of the extraordinary state

used

on such dayes,

as also of the excellent Musick;

I would advise you likwise

to see the King dine on some such day.</P>

<P>5. The Tower, in which be curious to see the Mint Crown,

Scepter, &amp; Treasury, the Magazine of ancient

arms

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> and the new Arsenall

built

and furnished

by the present King, The wild Beasts.</P>

<P>

6. <EM>Gresham</EM>-Colledge, where the

Exchange

is

now kept;

inquire there for Dr. <EM>Pope</EM> that by his

means

you may see

5

a verie

fine collection of naturall

rarities

kept

in that Colledge.

He will likewise carry you to see the

Royall

society, if you so desire.

</P>

<P>7. The King and Dukes

play-houses.</P>

<P>8. The Innes

of Court, especially

the <EM>Temple, Lincolns</EM> Inn, and <EM>Gray</EM>'s Inn.</P>

<P>9. The New Exchange, and not

farr

from it, <EM>Sommerset</EM>-House.</P>

<P>10. St. <EM>James</EM>'s-House and Park.</P>

<P>11. If yow

please to take a pair of Oares

the length of <EM>Greenwich,</EM> you will see the

Kings

new House that is

a building there, and if you please to walk up to the Hill above

it, You will have a prospect up and down the river, which the

multitude of goodly

ships,

the pleasantness of of the Countrey

about, and our Countreyman

<EM>John Barcly</EM>'s curious Description

and Commendation of it, render most famous.</P>

<P>

12. For the rest, I shall only put you in mind, that about

<EM>London</EM> there are such places,

as <EM>Wimbletone</EM> belonging

now to the Earle

of <EM>Bri<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

but lately

to the Queen-Mother and in the time of the

6

Rebellion possest

by <EM>Lambert;</EM> who imbellished

the Garden thereof with great variety of

plants.

<EM>Hampton</EM>-Court and Park

belonging

to the Kings

Majesty. I shall likewise put You in mind that

<EM>Oxfoord</EM> is

but fifty miles

from <EM>London,</EM> and that it

is

one of the most famous Universities

in the world, both for the number and structure of the

Colledges

and Halls,

and for the multitude of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>udents,

and competency of their provision.

The chief Colledges

are <EM>Christs Church, Magdalens,

All-Souls,</EM>

St. <EM>John</EM>'s, <EM>&amp;c.

Baliol</EM>

Colledg

was

founded

by a <EM>Scots</EM>

King's father of that name, The

Schools

is

a stately Fabrick

where there is

kept

a most magnificent

Librarie

for Number of Books

beyond any that ever I saw:

there is

besides

near <EM>Magdalen</EM>-Colledge a

<EM>Physicall</EM>

Garden; when You resolve to

goe

thither Dr. <EM>Moreson</EM> wil

recommend You to such persons

as will be carefull

to shew

you every thing.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>London</EM> to <EM>Paris</EM> the best way

is

to goe

by <EM>Dover</EM> and <EM>Calais,</EM> that you may

returne

by <EM>Die<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

and <EM>Rye,</EM> except

7

you make account to returne

by <EM>Flanders</EM> in which case I advise you rather to

goe

by <EM>Rye</EM> and <EM>Deip,</EM> because

<EM>Rouen</EM>

(which otherwise will not fall to be in your way)

is

a more considerable place and better worth the

seeing,

than any thing upon the way of <EM>Calais.</EM>

</P>

<P>For your accommodation from <EM>London</EM> to <EM>Rye,</EM>

you may either take post, or enquire

for the <EM>Rye</EM> Carrier at the

Kings

Head in <EM>Southwark,</EM> he will furnish You

sadle

Horses

for 12. <EM>sh.</EM> a man, and if You have

anie

baggage he will carrie

it at an

easie

rate; by this way You will arrive at <EM>Rye</EM> in two

dayes,

where You may lodge at the <EM>Marmaid</EM>

untill

You find an

Oportunitie

of passage, for which if there be

Passingers

enough You must pay 10. <EM>sh.</EM> but if there be few

passingers

You will be obliged

to pay more.</P>

<P>

At <EM>Deip</EM> be pleased

to lodge <EM>A la Bastile,</EM>

the master of the House hath

a Son that speaks

<EM>English,</EM> and they are all

verie

civil people. You may see in the

shops

verie

manie

curiosities

in that place, and particularlie,

<EM>Au Roy de la Chine;</EM> The

8

Town is

famous for working

in <EM>Ivory, Horn,</EM> and <EM>Tortois-shell,</EM> for

<EM>Combs,

Boxes,

Dialls,</EM>

and a Thousand other conceats.

</P>

<P>From thence you must Hire Horse to

<EM>Rouen,</EM>

the ordinarie

price is

a Crown, if you have no companie

you will do well to take a guide by the

Land-Lords

Direction; you dine at a

place called

<EM>Tostes,</EM> the first House of the village which you come

at is

the best.</P>

<P><EM>At Rouen</EM>

lodge <EM>Au Bon Pasteur,</EM> the master

is

a Protestant, and speaks

<EM>English&#0183;</EM> be pleased

to take Notice in the Town, of</P>

<P>1. The Bridge on the River, which

is

of wood, supported

by boats,

and rises

and falls

with the Tide.</P>

<P>2. The great Church; if you will be at the

pains

to go to the Top of the Steeple you may

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ave a

verie

good prospect of the Town and Avenues,

you may also see the biggest

bell in the World called

the St. <EM>George of Amboise.</EM></P>

<P>

3. The Palace, where the Parliament

Sits;

the great Hall is

commended

for its

breadth, being

it is

without pillars,

but

9

in my opinion it comes

far short of <EM>Westminster</EM>-Hall

at <EM>London.</EM>

</P>

<P>There is

a litle

Village about half a League from the Town

called

<EM>Santeville,</EM> famous for Cream, if you please your

landlord will find you a guid

to conduct you thither. You may Herbarize by the way.</P>

<P>You may take the messenger to <EM>Paris,</EM> as

being

the easiest

way, you pay 13. or 14. <EM>Franks</EM>

a man, for which You are to be furnished

with horse, lodging

and diet to <EM>Paris,</EM> as al<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

to have Six pound weight of baggage allow'd you, But if You have

any more, You must pay for it beside; The last Meal which you

make by the way is

at <EM>Po<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>to<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

where it is

usuall

after Dinner for every Gentlman

in the company to give to the conductor a

peice

of 13. <EM>Solds.</EM></P>

<P>

At <EM>Paris</EM> I shall advise you to lodge at Mr.

<EM>Haes,</EM> They are very honest people, at least you may

stay there untill

you find the way of accommodating

your self better; he lodges

<EM>A. Fauxbourg</EM> St. <EM>Germain

rue de la bouchery;</EM> There are so many

worthie

things

to be seen

in this place that

10

I shall only name some of them,

for fear of troubling

you too much, and leave the rest to your own observation.

</P>

<P>1. See <EM>Luxemburgh</EM> palace &amp;

gardens;

<EM>Monsieur Marchant</EM>

will be a fit Person, because of his

aquaintance

there, to wait upon you.</P>

<P>2. The Kings

garden, where be sure to make a strong friendship with the

Gardner;

and You may command what You will of

Plants

or Seeds.</P>

<P>3. The Kings

Library, and especialy

there, the Books

of Minature done

by <EM>Monsieur Robert,</EM> which I look upon as the best

curiosity of that kind in the World.</P>

<P>4. The Garden of <EM>Tuilliaries.</EM></P>

<P>5. Monsieur <EM>Marchant</EM>'s

own Garden; He dwells,

<EM>Rue du Roy de</EM> Sicile

<EM>devant la nostre</EM> Dame <EM>d' Argent, deriere le petit

St.</EM> Antoin; his Gard<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n

is

hard by his house, and there You may see some curious

<EM>Plants,</EM>

not to be found elsewhere in <EM>France.</EM></P>

<P>

6. The <EM>Jesuites</EM>

College, where enquire

for some <EM>Scots</EM>

Father, and desire

11

him

to procure you a sight of the Bibliotheck,

and Mathematical House; there you will see the 3.

<EM>Systems</EM>

of the World, according

to the severall

<EM>Hypotheses</EM>

of <EM>Copernicus, Tycho Brache,</EM> and <EM>Ptolomeus,</EM>

represented

in Motion.

</P>

<P>If You be desirous to learn <EM>Chymie,</EM> You may cause

Monsieur <EM>Marchant</EM>

address You to Monsieur

<EM>Barlet;</EM> He lives

<EM>au College de</EM> Cambray, and

uses

to teach Courses;

It will cost you ten Crowns

for the Course, and two Crownes

for his Book; He demonstrates

from two a clock in the Afternoon till five, and

finisheth

his course in three weeks.

I think it might be worth your while, in regard you will

hardly

find the like Occasion any other

where.</P>

<P>I need not say any thing of the

Booksellers,

being

they are obvious <EM>A la Rue St.</EM> Jaques; for new

Books

at the Palace; for <EM>French</EM>

Books,

as <EM>Romances,</EM>

&amp;c. <EM>A la Place de</EM> Sorbone; as also at the End of

the new bridge about <EM>nostre Dame</EM> church, also at the

postern Gate of the Palace and upon the Mont <EM>St.

Hiller,</EM> for old Books

of all Sorts.</P>

<P>

12

Remember to cause Monsr. <EM>Marchant</EM>

show You a maker of Mathematical

Instruments

that lives

<EM>dans l'Isle du Palais

au Key qui est vis a vis la valle des

Miseres,</EM> and

enquire

for the designing

Instrument; about the same

place also you may be provided

of <EM>Microscops</EM> of al sorts;

If You desire to have your own, or any other Picture

done:

enquire

for Monsr. <EM>Ferdinand, Paintre sur la Fosse

an

Fauxbourgs St.

Germaine

proche l' Academy de Monsr. du</EM> Plessis, but make your

bargain before Hand.

</P>

<P>It will be worth your while to see some

places

about <EM>Paris,</EM> as particularlie,</P>

<P>1 <EM>Maisone,</EM> a very delicat House,

belonging

to the President of <EM>Maisone,</EM> &amp;

standing

upon the River of <EM>Saine,</EM> some 4.

Leagues

from <EM>Paris;</EM> From hence you must go two

Leagues

up the River, to</P>

<P>2 St. <EM>Germaine,</EM>

A House belonging

to the King; from thence four Leagues

further a little off the River, to</P>

<P>

3 <EM>Versaile,</EM> A House begun

by the late King, but finished

by the present; It is

a most delicate fine place, but (as I think)

13

there will be a Necessity of procureing

an

Order from the Superintendent of the House (who

ordinarly

resides

at court) to the <EM>Cons<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erge</EM>

of the House to show the same to you; From thence to

</P>

<P>4 <EM>Rue<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,</EM>

You have about two leagues:

it is

a prettie

little House built

by Cardinal

<EM>Richlieu;</EM>

The G<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rdens

are exceedingly

prettie,

and the Water-Works

the best in <EM>France;</EM> From thence You may come to</P>

<P>5 St. <EM>Clou,</EM> A House

belonging

to the present Duke of <EM>Orleans;</EM> From thence on your way

to <EM>Paris</EM> (which is

not above 3

Leagues)

You pass thro' a wood called

<EM>Bois de</EM> Bologne;

in which there stands

a House called

<EM>Madrid,</EM> built

by <EM>Francis</EM> I. after His Return from <EM>Spain</EM>

where He had

been

Prisoner, to save his promise of

going

back to <EM>Spain</EM> once a year. In my time there

was

a Manufactorie

for weaving

of Silk Stockings

kept

there.</P>

<P>Having

performed

this Journey in one or at the most two

days,

you may with your conveniencie

visit</P>

<P>

6 St. <EM>Denys,</EM> in the <EM>Abbey</EM> whereof there

14

is

a famous Treasurie

kept.

Remember to take Nottice of <EM>Charles</EM> the Great's

Crown, in which there is

a <EM>Rubie</EM>

of the Bigness of a Pidgeons

Egg; A large <EM>Cup</EM> of oriental <EM>Aggat,</EM> which

they count much of; One of the Nails

that fixed

our <EM>Saviour</EM>'s Bodie

to the Cross, sent

to <EM>Charles</EM> the Great by <EM>Constantine</EM> V.

Emperour

of <EM>Constantinople;</EM>

One of the <EM>Potts,</EM>

wherein our Saviour changed

the water into wine at the Marriage of <EM>Cana</EM> in

<EM>Galilee;</EM> The Pucel of <EM>Orleans</EM> Sword,

wherewith she overcame

the <EM>English;</EM> The Lantern that

was

carried

before <EM>Judas,</EM> when He betrayed

our Saviour; and a thousand other

things

of great Value. See the <EM>Tombs</EM>

likewise: You will do well to go

earlie

in the Morning that you may have time to speak to the

Religious Men,

and take their Hour of conveniencie

for seing

of the Treasure; which being

done,

you will have time enough to return to <EM>Paris.</EM>

</P>

<P>

7 I know nothing better worth your

seing

about <EM>Paris,</EM> than the <EM>Aqueduct</EM> at

<EM>Arcqueul</EM> about 2 leagues

from the town, it was

built

by <EM>Mary</EM> of <EM>Medices</EM> in the

15

time of her Regencie,

for bringing

the the water to her palace of <EM>Luxemborg.</EM>

Besides

the Aqueduct, you will also see there a

verie

fine Grotto with fine walks

and manie

prettie

Jetts

of water; one afternoon

suffice for this Journey.

</P>

<P>8. <EM>Fountainbleau,</EM>

in which there are so manie

things

considerable: not only in the House, furniture, and

painting;

but also in the Gardens,

Walks,

<EM>Fish</EM>-ponds, and water-works,

that it will be less trouble for you to observe

them

by seing,

than by a long narration; I shall only tell you for the better

improvement of your Journey thither that you will doe well first

to go to</P>

<P>9. <EM>Esson</EM> a House seven

leagues

from <EM>Paris</EM> belonging

to a private Gentleman, where you will see very fine water

works

and many other prettie

conceats;

from thence you have 3 leagues</P>

<P>

10. To <EM>Durance,</EM> a privat

House likewise, but to which

there belongs

very noble gardens

and walkes,

with delicat Ponds

and Jetts

of water. It will not be a miss to stay here all the night,

being

16

You will have 4 Leagues

to <EM>Fontainbleau,</EM> a great part of which

is

through the Forrest,

and therefore better to be gone

in the morning, when the day is

before Your hand, than in the evening when night may

surprize

You.

</P>

<P>

11. You may arrive so early in the morning at

<EM>Fountainbleau</EM>

that You may have time to see all before dinner, and

thereafter returne

to <EM>Veau,</EM> a most stately house and

gardens

correspondent to it, built

by Monsr. <EM>Fougues<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

but since his disgrace it's fallen

to the King: From hence you may

returne

a short League off your way to lodge at <EM>Melun;</EM> The

next morning You will have an

easie

Journey to <EM>Paris,</EM> and time enough if you please to

see <EM>Vinceu,</EM> within two short

Leagues

of <EM>Paris.</EM> It is

a House belonging

to the King in the middle of a verie

pleasant Park: after you have

seen

the House emember to see the Wild

Beasts

that are kept

not far from it. If You resolve upon

making

any greater

toure

into the counrey, I shall

advise You to provide a Book called

<EM>le voyage de France,</EM> of the

latest

17

edition, which will give you a hint of the most considerable

things

that are to be seen

in those Places

you go to. I shall deferr

any thing I would say further, untill

I be happie

to hear of Your safe arivall

at <EM>Paris,</EM> and then I would be content to trouble you

with an

other sheet: in the mean time I pray for Your

happie

journey and safe

returne.

</P>

<BR>

<P><B>[Postscript starts here]</B>

<BR>

Sir,

<P>I intreat You to signifie

to Mr. <EM>Hannay</EM> as also to Mr. <EM>Cranston</EM> that

if they have any thing to send to me, You will be

pleased

to take charge of it; I shall beseech You likewise to do the

same by Monsr. <EM>Marchant</EM>

at <EM>Paris.</EM></P>

</P>

<BR>

<BR><BR>

19

<BR><H4>LETTER II.</H4>

<BR><H4>Containing

Advice for makeing

the grand Toure

of France, with an

Account of what is

most observable relateing

especially

to the Natural History and Antiquities

of that Kingdom.</H4>

<BR>

Sir,

<P>

IT seems

You are not yet resolved

whither to spend the Winter in

<EM>Paris</EM> or in the Country, my opinion

is

that out of <EM>Paris,</EM> there

is

litle

thing either to be seen

or learned

in all <EM>France;</EM> But in regard

it is

pertinent for a Traveler to see some thing of the

countrie

as well as the chief Town: I shall therefore advise you to see

those Places

chieflie

that I judge most suitable to your

inclinations,

and particularie

in order to <EM>Botany,</EM> that

is

<EM>Languedock</EM>

and <EM>Provence,</EM> for altho'

there be manie

other places

of <EM>France</EM> verie

worthie

the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eing,

as particularlie

the River

20

<EM>Loyre</EM>

from <EM>Orleance</EM>

downward to <EM>Nantes,</EM>

which for the fertilitie

aud

beautie

of the countrey,

the frequencie

of good Towns

and gentle disposition and Courtesie

of the inhabitants,

is

called

the Garden of <EM>France:</EM>

yet you will find that Climate

produces

but a few things

different from <EM>Normandy</EM> or the <EM>Isle</EM> of

<EM>France:</EM> But if you should incline to see it, my

advice

is

that you should not spend much time in

doing

of it, and therefore if you think fit you may make use of the

following

Advice at your Discretion.

</P>

<P>

I suppose You leave <EM>Paris</EM> about the

beginning

of <EM>June</EM> (for I would not have you loose the Month of

<EM>May</EM> in the Kings

Garden, in regard most things

will be then, or a little before, in their Prime, which now

that the Garden of <EM>Blois</EM>

is

no more in Condition, is

undoubtedly

the best you are like to meet with) and therefore, 1. you may

go to <EM>Orleans</EM> by the Messenger: it

is

but two Days

Journie;

Lodge <EM>Chez Monsr.</EM> Ogilbie,

<EM>sur l'<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>stape

au Roy de la Grand</EM> Bretaigne;

A Day or two will serve you to see all

21

that is

considerable in the place; It will be worth your while to see

a place some two Leagues

from the City, called

the <EM>Source,</EM> where in the midst of a fair green

Meadow you will see a Spring of

Water so plentifull,

that it is

navigable from its

Head, and powrs

out a River called

<EM>Loirette. 2ly.</EM> From

<EM>Orleans</EM> to <EM>Blois,</EM> they count 15.

Leagues,

yet it is

but a short Days

Journie:

besides

if you please, you have the Commoditie

of the River to go by Boat; Be pleased

to take Notice of a place by the Way, some 4.

Leagues

from <EM>Blois,</EM> called

St. <EM>Die,</EM> where the best

<EM>Claret</EM> in that

Countrie

grows,

and is

ordinarly

to be found. <EM>Blois</EM> of itself

is

no very considerable Town, yet it

is

famous for makeing

of <EM>Watches,</EM>

for the Civilitie

of the People, for the Sweetness of the Air, and

Puritie

of the <EM>French</EM> Language. You must stay there some

Days

till you have seen

the following

Particulars;

<EM>viz.</EM> in one day you may get to <EM>Chambort,</EM> a

house belonging

to the King, some three leagues

off, on the south side of the River, and South-East from the

Town; It is

said

to

22

have been

built

by King <EM>Francis</EM> I. and

is

a very statelie

House, though of a far different Order of

<EM>Architecture</EM> than what

is

now used.

From thence you may go to <EM>Herbeau,</EM> 3.

Leagues

to the southward of that, a privat

house belonging

to a Gentleman that beares

the title thereof. It is

a very pleasant seat having

very fine Gardens

with an

Orangery, Fish-Ponds,

Woods,

Maille and Meadowes

belonging

to it; from thence you may go to <EM>Bean-Regard</EM> another

privat

house, where amongst other prettie

things

you will see a fine Gallerie

well ornamented

with the pictures

of such persons

as have been

illustrious for some age; from thence you

returne

to <EM>Blois</EM> at night, &amp; as you go and come you will

have occasion to see that

part of the forrest

of <EM>Blois</EM> that lyes

to the South of the River and town; as also a

litle

village called

St. <EM>Gervais,</EM> famous over all that

countrey

for excellent Cream; being

returned

to <EM>Blois,</EM> you may take notice of the Castle, as also

of the Garden which is

now <EM>Seges ubi Troja;</EM> the keeper of it

is

Dr. <EM>Brumer</EM>

23

my very good acquantance,

and sometimes

one of the Herbarists

to the late Duke of <EM>Orleans,</EM> as

were

also Monsr. <EM>Morison</EM>

and Monsr. <EM>Marchand;</EM>

upon any of whose accounts

or yet upon mine, I am

confident You will be very welcom

to him;

I believe You may as yet see some

Plants

in the Garden, from thence walk

towards

the <EM>Capucins</EM> or the mount, and you will have a

delicat prospect both up &amp; down the

river; from thence walk

towards

the <EM>Alleys</EM>

which you will possibly

find to be the finest

in length and breadth, and being

well planted

on either side, that you have hitherto

seen;

You may chuse

whither You will see <EM>Vendosme</EM> or not, it

being

a place not verie

considerable except for the Holy

Tea<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,

which is

preserved

in the Cathedrall

Church with much veneration,

and which people go to see out of devotion; the

toun

is

famous for makeing

of Gloves

which are accounted

the best of that countrey;

upon the returne

from that place You may see the

Fountain of

<EM>Orchaise,</EM> of old <EM>Horrcum

Caesaris</EM> (for some where

not far from thence

24

the <EM>Roman</EM> legion was

said

to be quartered)

<EM>I</EM> take the fountain to be nothing else but a rivulet

or litle

burn falling

over the Top of a soft Rock into which by

process of time it

hath

cut in a considerable way thro' the whole

deepth

of it, and being

grown

together upon the Top, it seems

now to spring out of the Rock; over against that, cross a

meadow, you must take notice of a Cave or Hole

digged

in the side of a litle

hill in which there is

an

Aromatick

kind of Earth, not much inferiour

as is

believed

to the <EM>Terra Sigillatae</EM> of <EM>Lemnos;</EM> the

common people call the place <EM>La cave de la terre

Sigille.</EM>

</P>

<P>

And here I must put you in mind that in this same meadow I

have very often seen

very large green <EM>Lizards,</EM>

which because it is

a beautifull

creature and not found with us, I must intreat you where ever

you find of them

to cause preserve 1 or 2, to add to my <EM>Tradescants.</EM> I

know not which will be the best way of

preserving

them,

whither by skinning

them,

or drying

the flesh, but I suppose the best way will be

(especially

if the skin be any

25

thing strong) to cause skin them,

preserving

the head feet

and taile,

and then stop the Skin with Flax. There are

likewise

severall

other Birds

in <EM>France</EM> which are not common with us, which I must

earnestly

intreat you to do the same by, as for example the <EM>Pie

verte</EM> or Green Pyet, <EM>&amp;c.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>3ly.</EM> from <EM>Blois</EM> you go to <EM>Amboise</EM>

in half a day by water; the boat will give you

libertie

to see the Castle; in the Chapell

whereof will be shown

You hanging

a pair of Hornes,

they say, of a Hart, the largest

and biggest

(if they be true) that ever was

seen

In the court of the Castle there

is

likewise to be seen

a Rib, and one of the Back-Bones

of the same <EM>Animal,</EM> You are

brought

out of the Castle by a Toure

whose descent is

so large and so easie,

being

without Steps,

that a Coach may drive from the

Bottome

to the Top thereof. From thence You go <EM>Tours</EM> all Night,

where</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly.</EM> In my time the best

Lodging

was

<EM>A la</EM> St. <EM>Marthe;</EM> the place

is

commended

for the Sweetness of it's Situation, the

26

delicacie

of it's Fields

and Gardens,

and many other Particulars.

It will be worth Your while to see the

Manufactories

of Silk, especially

the way of working

Tissenes, and Brocarts,

which You will see of diverse Colours

and some of Gold and Silver. The invention and way of

making

Tabbies,

which I forbear to descrive,

because You will

abundantly

discover it by sight. You must be at the

pains

to fetch a walk out of town a litle

way to see the <EM>Maille,</EM> which in any time

was

the longest

and in the best order of any in <EM>France;</EM> and at the

same time, you may go the length of the

<EM>Minims

Convent</EM> because the first instituter

of their Order St. <EM>Francois de paul,</EM>

lyes

Buried

in the Church in a marble <EM>Coffine,</EM>

as will be shown

You, which People visit with great Veneration: if you will be

at the pains

to pass the River there is

an

ascent to the <EM>Capucins</EM> whence you may discover the

whole City, and a great part of the

Countrey

about, which for it's Beauty and Fertility

is

called

the <EM>Gardin</EM> of <EM>France.</EM> and

certainly

deserves

that Name better than any Place upon

27

the whole River of <EM>Loir.</EM> There

is

likewayes

not far from <EM>Tours,</EM> a Place which they call <EM>la

cave Gutiere,</EM> From the Top of which there

drops

a Liquor

which Congeals

into a substance almost as hard as a stone not much unlike

that you sent

me from <EM>Hamiltoun.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>5ly.</EM> You may go from <EM>Tours</EM> to

<EM>Saumure</EM> a town famous

for it's Protestant University, of which we have two very

honest countrey-men

that are members,

Monsr. <EM>Doule</EM> and Monsr. <EM>Gray.</EM> You may take

the pains

to see <EM>Nostre damo d' Ardeliers</EM> a Place of great

devotion; if you please you may see the

Treasurie

which is

Rich, and as you go and come, you may observe the great Trade

of that Suburbs,

to be making

of Beads

or Chaplets;

I beseech you forget not to bring us some that are

made

of young Oranges:

If you please you may see the Castle. At <EM>Saumure</EM> you

must hire Horses

to make a litle

tour of three days,

and first you must go to <EM>Doue,</EM>

where there is

to be seen

an

ancient <EM>Amphitheatre</EM> cut out

28

of a Rock, as it is

said,

by the <EM>Romans.</EM>

There are likewise verie

many great quarries

of free stone and the Workmen

often find in cleaving

of the stones,

some litle

peices

of a finer

and harder

substance by farr

than the rest, which from the shape they have, They

comonly

call <EM>Langues de Serpents.</EM>

The little Boys

for a small matter will sell you abundance of

them

which I pray forget not to buy, If not for your own, at least

for your friends

curiositie.

From thence you must go to <EM>Thouars,</EM> a most delicate

House belonging

to the Duke of <EM>Tremoville,</EM> it

is

situat

upon a Rock, and the greatest

part of the office houses

cut out of the Solid Rock. The next Morning you go to

<EM>Waren,</EM> a verie

prettie

House but not much worth the pains

of seeing

were

it not in Your way to <EM>Richlieu,</EM>

where you are to spend the rest of that day, That you may have

the more time to view the Toun

and House, which I think so well

worthie

your seeing,

That for it's sake a Journey from <EM>Paris</EM> that length

were

not ill bestowed.

I shall say no more of

29

of it, that I may not deprive you of the <EM>Gusto</EM> of

being

surprized

with the Beautie

of it. Amongst other things

be pleased

to take notice of two Marble statues

that stand over the Gate, at the

upper end of the inner Court, as

also of a peece

of painting

in the Chapell,

that was

left by way of Legacie

to the <EM>Cardinall</EM>

by Monsieur <EM>de Mont Morency,</EM> when he

was

Beheaded

at <EM>Thoulouse.</EM> There are two

Books

the one in 40. the other in 80.

containing

the Figure of the House, and parts

thereof; they are sold,

as I take it, by the Porter, of

whom

I intreat you to buy them

for me.

</P>

<P>

The third day you may Dine at <EM>Loudun</EM>

where in my time there was

a Religious Woman, that

had

been

formerly

Possessed.

At the time of her cure which they say

was

Miraculous there was

found Written

on her hand <EM>JESVS

MARIA JOSEPH,</EM> which still remained

indelible. If she be yet

alive you May see it. From thence you

returne

by <EM>Shinon,</EM> where they say the famous <EM>Francis

Rablais</EM> had

his first breeding

in an

old convent,

30

From thence you pass throw Most

delicate

Meadows

called

the <EM>Valey</EM>

of <EM>Shinon,</EM> and in your way to <EM>Saumure</EM> some

three Leagues

from the Town you may see a Monasterie

of Religious Women

whereof the Lady

<EM>Abbas</EM> in my time was

the Queen-Mothers

Sister of Great <EM>Brittain.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>6ly.</EM> You may hire horses

to <EM>La Fleche,</EM> where the only thing considerable

is

the <EM>Jesuits</EM>

Colledge.

It is

a most noble Structure, and by far the best they have in France.

Take Particular notice of their Church where the heart of

<EM>Henry</EM> the <EM>4th</EM> who

gave

them

that House is

kept:

The Bibliotheck: The Theatre-hall: their Office

houses,

particularly

the Kitchen; the Bake-house, where one Man and a Dog

makes

bread for all the Colledge

every day: the Myln where the Water that

moves

the Wheele

doeth

likewise move a Pump that furnisheth

water to the whole Colledge.

The best lodging

was

<EM>Au quatre Vents.</EM>

From hence you must again take horse to <EM>Angiers.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>7ly</EM> It is

a Town famous for the Profession

of Laws,

and hath

likewise a

31

Faculty of Physick:

See the great Church called

St. <EM>Maurice,</EM> and therein one of those

pots

in which our <EM>Saviour</EM> converted

the water into Wine at the Marriage of <EM>Cana</EM> in

<EM>Galile.</EM>

See the <EM>Maill,</EM> and at the end of it next the town the

<EM>Minims

Convent.</EM> You will find in their Garden

severall

Kinds

of <EM>Ilex;</EM> You will likewise find in

severall

places

of the Countrey

not far from the Town severall

sorts

of <EM>Pinastres,</EM> as also a kind of Fruit tree

called

<EM>Cormes,</EM> not mnch unlike our Raun-tree, the Fruit

whereof hangs

in Clusters

like our <EM>Roddens:</EM> but of

an

other colour, and bigness every one

being

as big as a Plumb. A League or two from the town

towards

the East, are the <EM>Pierries</EM> or

quarries,

of blew

Skleat called

<EM>Ardoise</EM> which serve the

greatest

part of <EM>France:</EM> See the Castle, and in it that famous

crib where <EM>Rene</EM> King of

<EM>Sicilie</EM>

and Duke of <EM>Anjou</EM> imprisoned

his Queen out of Jealousie

all the days

of her life. About half a League distant from the town,

doun

the River stands

a Convent called

<EM>Bamet,</EM> worthie

of seeing;

32

there is

likewise on the other side of the River

an

old Abbacie

called

<EM>Les Bons Hommes,</EM> near to which there

is

a litle

lake, which I suppose to have been

the place where the blew

Sklate was

dug of old; you will find about the

sides

of it, aboundance

of <EM>Tribulus aquaticus,</EM> the Fruit thereof

is

ripe in the Moneth

of <EM>August;</EM> they use to Boyll

them

and Sell them

as they do <EM>Chasnuts,</EM> from which they differ not much

in Tast

or Quality, but verie

much in Figure, and therefore be

pleased

to provide a Quantitie

of them

for your self and Friends.

You may likewise dry the Plant, if you think fit.

</P>

<P>

<EM>8ly</EM> You May go If you please from <EM>Angiers</EM> to

<EM>Nantes</EM>

either by Water or by Land, in one day; It

is

a prettie

town and stands

upon the <EM>Loir</EM> and the Sea

flowing

up above the town gives

Commodity to

Ships

of a considerable Burden to

come up to the Town. It is

here that the greatest

part of the Wines

that grow upon this River or near to it,

together with the

Brandie

made

thereof, which are carried

out of <EM>France,</EM> are Imbarked.

33

You must return again to <EM>Angiers,</EM>

and from thence to <EM>Paris</EM> with the Messenger. It

is

a Journey of five days,

and all that I know considerable in it,

is

first, That when You come near to

<EM>Mans</EM>

(which you will leave at a Leagues

Distance, upon the

Le<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>t Hand)

You will find in aboundance

a Kind of <EM>Cistus,</EM> not mentioned

by any that I know of, except

<EM>Petrus Bellonius.</EM> Forget not to

preserve a Branch or two,

which You may Fold in your <EM>Portefoile,</EM> which for such

rancounters

you'l do well to be stil

Provided

of, and You may cause make them

of what Bigness You please, and have

them

furnished

with <EM>Gray Paper</EM> within. I

did

allways

use to Carry one of a 40 Form, with good Tyers to it in a

<EM>Carpet</EM> Bag (such as

they use in <EM>France</EM>) tyed

to the Tore of my Saddle, so that if it

was

My Fortune to Meet with any thing by the Way worth the

Gathering,

I could easily

take it and preserve it with out

being

in Danger to Loss my Companie.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Town of <EM>Chartres;</EM> in the great

Church whereof (which is

a

34

most stately Fabrick)

K. <EM>Henry</EM> IV. was

Sacred. It is

a Place of great Devotion, and there

is

kept

in it amongst other Relicts,

one of our <EM>Ladys</EM> smocks.

You wil

meet with several litle

shops

near to the <EM>church,</EM> where the chief Trade

is

<EM>Beads,</EM>

and as they call them

<EM>des Chemises

de Chartres,</EM> which Devout People Buy and append to their

Chaplets,

and then get them

to Touch the Relicts,

according

to the Custom.

</P>

<P>

You may furnish this Journey, and have Time enough at

<EM>Paris</EM> to Prepare your Self for the Journey to

<EM>Provence</EM> and <EM>Languedock</EM>

before the <EM>Dog-Days</EM>

be ended,

at which Time it will be fit to

begin your Journey. And

<EM>1st.</EM> You may take the Messenger to

<EM>Lions;</EM>

I think You must Pay about twentie

Crowns;

for the Journey

is

of nine Days;

There are not many

things

considerable to be seen

by the way; only take Notice <EM>1st</EM> at <EM>Nevers</EM>

of the Glass-Works,

and <EM>Faiance,</EM> or white Lame-works,

of which the best in <EM>France</EM> are here. <EM>2ly.</EM>

At <EM>Mouline</EM> (where you will fall to Dine)

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>quire for

the

35

monasterie

where the body of Monsr. <EM>de Monmorancy</EM>

is

in<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erred,

You may see a very stately Monument of Marble. The Town

is

famous for the Manufactorie

of Knives

and Scissers.

You will not miss to be troubled

with a company of Women,

who wait upon the arrivall

of Strangers,

to show them

quantities

of this kind o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

ware in hopes

to Sell some. 3ly. Take notice of the Well of <EM>Pouge,</EM>

the water is

Alummous and boills up in great quantity, of a whiteish

colour, as if there were

meal mixed

with it. 4ly. <EM>Roane;</EM>

which is

said

to be the largest

Bourg in <EM>France:</EM> they call that Bourg which

is

not incompassed

with wall or ditch. The <EM>Loir</EM>

begins

to be Portable here and cary Boats,

But it's source is

many Leagues

higher.

5ly. <EM>Mont tarare;</EM> It is

a very great Hill, and here You will find a change of the

climate together with the change of

Plants,

which I leave to Your observation, and think it will be worth

Your while at night to make a note of all those

Plants

that You meet with. Being

arrived

at <EM>Lions</EM>

You must stay some

36

time to see the place, which altho'

in regard of

its

situation amongst Hils

and Rivers,

it be somewhat unwholsome,

the Air, being

either too moist, or in Summer t<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

hot; yet I look upon it as one of the best and most important

Towns

in <EM>France,</EM> both for the magnificknesse of the

Buildings,

the great tra<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ique

it hath

with almost all Places

of the World, to which the situation of it betwixt two

Rivers,

the <EM>Soane</EM> and the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

is

no small advantage; for by the <EM>Soane</EM> it

hath

Communion not only with <EM>Burgundie,</EM>

but also with the <EM>Ocean;</EM> for <EM>Chalon</EM> which

stands

upon the <EM>Soane,</EM> is

but a days

Journey from <EM>Auxere,</EM>

which stands

upon the <EM>Saine,</EM> and that River you know

disimbogues

it self in the <EM>Ocean</EM> at

<EM>Haver<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>degrace.</EM>

By the <EM>Rhosne,</EM>

it hath

communion with the

Mediterranean Sea, and consequently,

with all the <EM>Levant.</EM> The <EM>Soane</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Araris</EM> is

a Pleasant and very soft flowing

River; the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

is

<EM>Fluviorum Rapidissimus.</EM> The people are very ingenious

and dextrous in the matter of traffick

and business, they

37

are likeways

courteous &amp; human, your most convenient

Lodging,

will be <EM>Auxtrois-Rois:</EM>

It is

a good House and nea<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

to the place where the Messenger of

<EM>Paris</EM>

arrives.

As also to the Post-House. Remember to see the

<EM>Maisone-de-Villo</EM> which without exception

is

the most stately in

<EM>France:</EM> Take particular notice of

its

Fabrick,

Statues,

Paintings,

and ancient

Inscriptions,

of which some are extant upon

Brass, its

Fountain's, courts,

&amp;c. 2. See the great Church of St. <EM>John,</EM> and in

it a most Stately and Curious Clock, upon the upper part of

which, i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>mediately

before the hour strike, the blessed

<EM>Virgine</EM>

appears

with the <EM>Angel</EM> before her, as she

uses

to be represented

at the <EM>Annunciation,</EM> and within a little, a Cock upon

the top claps

his Wings

and Crows,

and then the hour strikes.

There is

likeways

considerable in it, a Hand that

points

the minut

of the hour upon the O<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>al,

and altho'

the parts

of an

Oval line, be not equally

distant from the center yet the Hand which

is

fixed

in the center, doth alwayes

reach

38

that line and never exceed it, in the whole compase it

maketh.

<EM>3ly.</EM> There is

an

Old Monument about the midle

of that <EM>Fauxbourgh,</EM>

by which the Messenger of <EM>Paris</EM>

enters

they call it <EM>Tombeau-de-deux Amants.</EM> It

seems

to be of <EM>Roman</EM> antiquitie.

4ly, See the Bishops

House &amp; and Gardens,

the great Place before it, the Bridge over the

<EM>Rhosne:</EM>

And in short consider the Avenues

and Compass of the Town.

</P>

<P>5ly. Forget not to take with you your Catalogue of

Books,

for there are many Booksellers

in this Place, that have great Magazins

of Books,

and have great traffick

with all <EM>Germany, Swizerland</EM> and <EM>Italy,</EM> and it

is

very like, you may come by Books

here that you missed

of at <EM>Paris;</EM> For so it

happened

to my self.</P>

<P>

I must not omit in this place to tell you that it will be

expedient, to draw your Money from <EM>Paris,</EM> to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

either by Bill of Ex-change, or

Letter of credit, upon some honest,

substantiall

Merchant, to whom

yon must be sure to yet good Recommendation: By his

means

39

you may return your Money, to any

other place as you shall have

occasion, and likeways

be furnished

with new recommendations

as you desire; &amp; this way you may make your Money march

from place to place, without fear or danger; and if you light

upon honest Men

the Exchange will cost you

nothimg, unless it be from <EM>Paris</EM> to

<EM>Lions;</EM>

because of the disrance and that will not be above half a one

<EM>per-Cent:</EM> Your Merchant at

<EM>Lions,</EM>

will be a convenient Steple

for receiving

your Letters,

or any thing else, that you please to send from any other

place, and to send it forward to <EM>Paris,</EM> to be

keept

for you. By them

you shall give advice to receive it from the

Carriers,

or otherways to the Merchant, that

returnes

your Money to <EM>Lions:</EM>

But of these things

I have said

enough, for I doubt not that you are

sufficiently

informed

of them

already.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Lions,</EM>

you take Boat to <EM>Avignion,</EM>

which is

about fi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>tie

Leagues:

if the River be not very low, which seldom

happeneth,

you would go near to accomplish

40

it, in two days

and a half, or three at most.

</P>

<P>

You have to take notice of, by the way <EM>1st. Vienne,</EM> a

little but ancient Town, five Leagues

from <EM>Lions.</EM>

See the forges

where they make Sword-blades,

the Haminers are moved

by a Wheell which the Water turns,

so that the Stroakes

are both frequent and

equall.

The Town hangs

upon the side of a Hill toward

the River. 2ly. some nine Leagues

from <EM>Vienne,</EM> there is

an

old Castle called

<EM>Le Maisone de Pillate,</EM> the place

is

no otherways considerable

than for having

been

the retreat of <EM>Pontius Pilate,</EM>

driven

here, by, God knows,

what accident. 3ly. <EM>Valence,</EM> a

Pretie

Town only considerable for its

University. 4ly. <EM>Le

Pont-Sanct-Esprite</EM> seventeen

Leagues

lower than <EM>Valence,</EM> the Town

is

not very considerable, but only for the Bridge, from whence it

takes

its

name, and which at that place stands

upon the <EM>Rhosne;</EM>

that which renders

the Bridge so considerable, is

the breadth of the River, and Impetuosity of the current; for

besides

other small Rivers,

both the

41

<EM>Soane</EM> and the <EM>Isere,</EM> a little before You

come at <EM>Valence,</EM> and several others

below that, loss themselves

therein.

</P>

<P>

When you come at <EM>Avignion,</EM>

You may lodge at <EM>Louxenbourg.</EM> The Town and Country

belongs

to the <EM>Pope,</EM> whose Legate

resides

in Quality of Governour.

It will be fitting

to stay here some Days,

that You may the better take Notice of the

following

Particulars.

1. The Churches

and Religious Houses.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Legat's

Palace. <EM>3ly.</EM> The Situation, and

<EM>Avenues</EM>

of the Town, together with the Walls

thereof, which are high and stately,

and it will be worth Your while to go about

them

in regard of the Occasion You will have to Herbarize, for here

you will find many Plants

that did

not appear in any other part of your Journey. <EM>4ly.</EM>

The <EM>Jurie</EM>

or <EM>Cantone</EM> of the Town where the

<EM>Jewes</EM>

dwell, I advise You by all means

if You can stay of a <EM>Saturday</EM> to see their

<EM>Synagogue</EM> and manner of Worship, and if you be

Curious and make Enquiry, You may

possibly

see a <EM>Circumcision. 5ly.</EM> You may hire

Horse<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

42

to <EM>Orange,</EM> which is

but half a days

Journie

up the River. The Town and Principality

belongs

to the Prince of <EM>Orange;</EM> It

is

an

ancient, tho' little Town; It was

considerable in My time for the

Castle, which

was

very Strong, both by Art, and by

its

natural Situation, which was

so high, that from thence one might have

discovered

seven or eight Provinces

about, at least some part o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

them:

the Town hath

an

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>niversity

tho' not very considerable; The

inhabitants

for the most part are Protestants.

There are yet extant some Monuments

of antiquitie,

<EM>viz</EM> a Triumphal <EM>Arch</EM> a

lttle

without the Town, and some ruins

of a Theatre within the Town, both of which

shows

something of the <EM>Roman</EM> Greatness, in Respect of

Modern Times;

The Coun<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ry

about is

fertile, and there are whole <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lds

of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ron.

I think it might be well worth the while to

enquire

about the best way of

P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>anting,

cultivating,

gathering

and preparing

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> it.

Having

seen

these thing and Dyned,

You return to Your Lodging

at <EM>Avignion</EM>

the same

43

day. The next day you take Horses

for <EM>Aix,</EM> which is

about two days

Journey or two days

and a half a most. If You depart from

<EM>Avignion</EM>

early in the morning You will

have time enough to see <EM>Vauclus,</EM> which

is

three Leagues

from <EM>Avignion</EM>

and then to go Dine at <EM>Cavaillion.</EM>

I look upon <EM>Vaucluse</EM> as one of the most considrable

things

I have ever seen:

it is

a fountain at the foot of a great Rock very Large and

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>f immense

deepness, which

poures

out so much Water as to Move four or five

Milnes

about half a Mile below. It is

observed

that the Water Diminishes

and increases

according

to the season of the Year. In rainy Weather it

abounds

most, and Yet when you consider the position of it, how much

it is

elevated

above the plain, and what vast hills

and Rocks

are about it, It is

not conceaveable with what other Water&#0183; it should have

any communion. The River that comes

from it tumbles

over so many stones

and Craigs;

that it makes

a noise like the <EM>Catarracks,</EM> and

having

neer

three quarters

of a Mile to

44

fall, it becomes

exceeding

swift before it arrive the Plain, and there

divides

it self in two, and incloses

a litle

Meadow in Form of an

Isle, and then joyns

again. The Water is

so Clear, finding

nothing among the

Rocks

to Defile it, that notwithstanding

its

Swiftness, yet it hinders

not the grass to grow in it's bed. The

Fiver

is

likewise recomended

for excellent Trouts

and Crawfish and it is

agreeable to Reason they should be good that live in so pure

streams;

When You come the length of the

Mil<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s you

must quite Your Horse, to walk up

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o the

<EM>Sour<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,</EM>

&amp; and for that <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

must take a guide, without which the way

is

not easie.

As You go up you will observe upon the other side, in two

other places,

the Ruins

of two old Castles,

the one standing

about a Musket shot higher

than the other, in the uppermost whereof

did

sometimes

live that Noble Philosopher, and Poet <EM>Franciscus

P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>trarcha</EM>

and in the lower <EM>Donna Laura</EM> his

Mistriss,

in the praise of whose beautie

and vertue

he composed

his most excelent

<EM>Triumfe d' Amore;</EM>

45

a Monument that hath

outlasted

her familie,

in which her Memorie

is

like to live as long as Wit and

Learning

continues

in reputation. You may also in this place take notice of the

Paper-Milns and consider that so

usefull

art of makeing

Paper, and labour to informe

yourself well of all the

particulars

that when GOD shall be pleased

to return you, you may make it Practicable in your own

Countrey.

I am

sure we want not Linnen

rags

in abundance which might be preserved

for this use, and not thrown

into the Dunghill's, were

people put once in the right way.

</P>

<P>From hence you go to Dine at

<EM>Cavaillion;</EM> in the

rest of the Journey to <EM>Aix,</EM> there

is

nothing considerable, only you have a River to pass by boat

called

<EM>Durance. Aix,</EM>

is

one of the most delicate Towns

in <EM>France,</EM> It's the Capitall

City of <EM>Provence</EM> and the seat of a Parliament. The

streets

are large, especialy

one great street, the Buildings

fair and stately, The City well

watered

and the Air very healthfull

and Sweet.</P>

<P>

46

From hence you go to <EM>Marseilles</EM> in half a day, you

may lodge at <EM>a l' Aigle</EM> or <EM>al' teste noire.</EM>

You must resolve to stay two or three

days

at least, for the more commodious

seeing

and observing

the following

things.

<EM>1st.</EM> the Harbory or Port, which

is

very spicious and deep, and exceedingly

well guarded,

having

upon he entrie

thereof to the Sea ward, which is

very narrow, not only a chain drawn,

but also a very strong Citidale,

built

within these seven or eight years,

upon the one side o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

it, and an

other <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ort

upon a litle

Island within the Sea, at a leagues

distance from the entrie,

all which rendreth it most secure from the <EM>Algiers</EM>

and <EM>T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ies</EM>

Men

of Warr

and other Pyrats.

<EM>2ly.</EM> the Cathedrall

Church, which you may easily

guesse

to be very ancient, from the Modell

and Architectu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e

thereof. It was

first extructed

in the honor

of <EM>Digna</EM> by the <EM>Greek Phocenses,</EM> who

had

a Colonie

here. <EM>3ly.</EM> Take notice in the

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> before the

Church upon the wall looking

to the Sea, of nine or ten large Brass

Guns,

which use upon the

47

day of the Towns

great Festivitie

(which is

sometime in <EM>October</EM>) to be

loaden

with Bull and discharged

by so many of the best gunners

of the Town, a<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ter

great Mass is

ended,

at a white mark placed

on the Side of the hill, on the other side of the Harbour. He

that shoots

nearest

the Mark is

esteemed

the best Gunner for that year. They begin to fire just as the

<EM>Arch-Bishop</EM> comes

out of the Church. Who having

celebrated

Mass in <EM>Pontificalibu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

returnes

to his own Hous<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

accompanied

with the Consul and chief Magistrats

of the Place, and generally

a<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>l the

Gentlemen

&amp; citizens

of the best fashion, in their

best apparell

and a great consort of Musick.

<EM>4ly. Nostre dame de la gard,</EM>

a Castle upon the Top of the Hill to the Southward of the

Town, in in the going

thither, you will do well to bestow a whole day, and take with

you a couple of Souldiers,

from the Citidale, or else a

Couple of other Souldiers

armed

at least with Swords,

and let one of them

cary a couple of botles

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> Wine

with bread and what else you think fit,

48

as provision for that day, the other may cary a Basket with

you emptie,

being

thus accourted, you may Herbarize upon the way to the Castle,

and put a litle

quantitie

of every Herb you find into your

emptie

basket, the better to judge of it at your return; as also of

what Seeds

you find you may put up some for your own and

friends

use, you may returne

by the way of the Sea, and so Herbarize all

thereabouts.

It is

a most excellent place for Varietie

of Plants,

amongst the rest take

particular notice of the <EM>Tarto<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rair

Massiliensium,</EM> upon the Sea side you may likewise take

notice, what Stones

or shells,

Mosses

or any other naturall

curiosities

you can observe, &amp; if any be worth the

preserving

bring them

along with you. <EM>5ly</EM> I would have you bestow half a

day in a boat upon the Sea without the Harbour, but so as it

be very calm, for then you will

easily

se the botom

of the Water, especially

where it is

not very deep, because the Water

hath

no Motion of ebbing

or flowing,

and so you may possibly

49

light upon curiosities

worth the gathering,

for the taking

up of which, you must provide Creepers,

which the Seamen

know how to use. <EM>6ly.</EM> Take notice of the situation

Fabrick,

and Avenues

of the Town, especially

some Shops

upon the Shoare,

where you will find many curiosities,

especially

from the <EM>Levant.</EM> I must recommend my self to you

here, but especially

for a good handsome Tree of

red Corall;

as also one of those that are black, but are not true

Corall,

and what else you think fit; I shall hold you good accompt,

for all expenses;

you may send them

with your own things

to <EM>Lions,</EM>

with Order to your Friend there to send

them

to <EM>Paris,</EM> to be received

by your Factor and keept

for you. <EM>7ly.</EM> The Place

is

commended

for perfumes,

sweet-Powders,

<EM>Franchipane</EM>-Gloves,

&amp;c. But there is

great cheating

both in the Prices

and Quantities

of the things;

therefore take heed to your self, if you buy any of

them:

I did

formerly

forget to tell you that <EM>Avignion</EM>

is

famous for the same things,

but especially

for Gloves;

whereof the Manufactorie

50

is

very good; and Essences.

But now I return to <EM>Marsails</EM> where <EM>8ly.</EM> Take

occasion frequently

to view the Fish-market, where you will not miss to see great

variety of strange Fishes

well worth the observing,

and for that end I wish you to acquaint your self with the

<EM>Icones

Piscium,</EM> together with their description, by <EM>Petrus

Bellonius,</EM> it is

in a Long 80. and not very thick, &amp; therefore you may take

it along with you from <EM>Pari.</EM> If any of these

Fishes

which are not common with us can be

preserved

or keept

any way; as I doubt not but you will find

inventions

to do it, you will exceedingly

oblidge

us to bring them

along with you, or send them

as said

is:

Be pleased

to enquire

<EM>ches les Espiciers</EM> for a kind of Seed which they call

<EM>Graine

d' Avignion,</EM>

they sell it in great quantity to

Dyers

who use it for Dying

Yellow; it is

the <EM>Lycium Gallicum Dalechampij;</EM> It

is

a Shrub not common here, nor yet in the North of

<EM>France,</EM> and therefore worth the

taking

notice of; I would have you bring us some quantity of the

graine

51

for a Show about an

ounce or so: But because I suspect, that which the

Grossers

sell is

dryed;

therefore I think it will be more profitable to search at

<EM>Avignion,</EM>

where it grows

plentifully,

for some that is

better conditioned

for your own use. In your herborization at

<EM>Marsaills</EM>

especially

upon the Hill, amongst other rare

Plants,

you will find <EM>Mypum Montis Ceti, sive herba terribilis

Narb<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>nsium

Lobelij.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>9ly.</EM> Take a view of the Country

about <EM>Marsaills</EM> from some

eminent Place, especially

east from the Town, where the fertility

is

so great and the Country-Houses,

and Gardens,

so thick, that they use to call it the

<EM>Suburbs</EM>

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Marsaills,</EM> and say merrily,

that <EM>Marsaills</EM> and its

suburbs

is

bigger

than <EM>Paris:</EM> The great conveniencie

of these Houses

is

to acc<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>mmodat

the Citizens

with a retireing

Place, in time of Plague, as also to divert themselves in

Summer, and to provide necessars for House

keeping.</P>

<P>

At <EM>Marsaills</EM> you must hire

Horses

to <EM>Frayole,</EM> which is

some three dayes

Journey

52

east ward toward <EM>Neice;</EM>

In this Journey, besides

the things

of Pleasure you will see in this

higher

<EM>Provence,</EM> you will have the best herborization,

almost all the way, that you can

possibly

desire; you must part from <EM>Marsaills</EM> early in the

morning, that you may have the more time to herbarize by the

way, &amp; that you may arrive in good time

before it be Night at

<EM>Saincte

Beaume,</EM> a Place of much Devotion, and the

greatest

Solitude in the World. In the

midle

of a vast and terrible Rock, there

is

a great cave where St. <EM>Maria Magdalen</EM>

did

pennance

for many years

before her Death: it's now upon that consideration

turned

into a Chapell,

with some few Rooms

clacht up against the face of a Rock, like a Bird cage upon

the side of a Wall, where some Religious

Men

(as I think <EM>Jacobins</EM>)

keep the Place, and serve the cure in the Chapel every Day

receiving

confessions,

&amp; giving

the Sacraments

to such as require them.

There is

a little kind of a chainge-house close to it, that

provides

Meat for Men

and Horses,

at

53

their own expences,

but you mnst lye

within the convent; in the morning you must take a Guide to

the Top of the Craig, where there

is

an

other Chapel of Devotion just in that Place where the

Angels

did

use once a Day, to carrie

the <EM>Saincts,</EM>

from the cave to administer consolation to her. As you go and

come you may herbarize, for the whole side of the Hill before

you come at the Rock, is

a Wood: Upon your Arrival at the convent it

is

expedient to give some

little thing out of Charity,

which I think is

bestowed

in maintaining

the place. You will ordinarly

find without the Chapel Door, some few little

Merchants

that sell Reads,

and amongst other

things,

Silk-Cords

of the just length and greatnes

of the <EM>Saint,</EM> all which People use to buy and

carrie

in to the Chapel, there to touch the

Statue of the

<EM>Sainct;</EM>

which l<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>es

just in that Place, and in that Posture, that she

used

to do pennance

in; you will likeways

see within the Chapel a very Large Well of good Water, which

they say did

first spring there by miracle, for

54

use of the <EM>Sainct.</EM>

From hence you take Horses

to <EM>Sainct

Maximine,</EM> a little Town, in the great Church whereof,

amongst other reliques,

the Body of St. <EM>Maximine,</EM>

Uncle to St. <EM>Mary Magdalen,</EM> &amp;

sometimes

Bishop of <EM>Marsaills,</EM> is

preserved:

If you please you may take this

opportunity of

seeing

it, and there dyne,

for it is

a little out of your way to <EM>Brignole,</EM>

where you must lye

the second Night, and the Day following

you Dine at a Village called

<EM>Luques,</EM> and then go to

lye

ae <EM>Frayote,</EM> or <EM>Freust,</EM> which you please to

call it. Its

a Town of <EM>Roman</EM> antiquity, of which there are yet

some rests

to be seen,

as aqueducts,

&amp;c. The Town is

not otherways considerable at all; you will do well here,

besides

your own Guide that goes

along with you to take another Man from the Town, with

an

emptie

Basket, to wait upon you to the

Hil,

called

<EM>Astral,</EM> about a League from the Town, where you will

have one of the most pleasant Heborizations

in the World: Amongst a great variety of

Shrubs,

Plants,

and Trees,

55

you will find a great Number of <EM>Arbutus,</EM>

loaden

with Fruit, of a most Beautifull

aspect; yet, somewhat insipid to the taste, It may

safely

be eaten,

but doth not much allure the taste. Several kind of Spinous

Shrubs,

amongst which <EM>Acaeia Secunda Dioscorides</EM> sive

<EM>Aspalathus,</EM> when you come upon the Top of the

Hil,

upon the way to <EM>Neice,</EM>

there is

an

<EM>Inn,</EM> where you may make a Shift for Dinner, and a

little beyond it, upon the North-side of the

Hil,

you will meet with aboundance

of Cork-Trees,

<EM>Ilex, Abics, Picca,</EM> &amp;c.

</P>

<P>

I must give you notice here, that in this place, you are not,

above two or three hours

ryding,

from <EM>Cane,</EM> a Village, upon the Sea-side, some eight

or nine Leagues

distant from <EM>Neice,</EM>

where (were

you to go to <EM>Italy,</EM>) you might

commodiously

hire a <EM>Fel<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>oque</EM>

of two Oares

a side for <EM>Genova,</EM>

and arrive there in four or five

days,

<EM>Ter a Terre,</EM> that is

Landing

every Day to your Dinner, and to your

Lodging,

in some convenient Town: But I shall say nothing of

<EM>Italy,</EM> untill

I understand

56

from your self, that you have a design for it.

</P>

<P>I shall therefore returne

to <EM>Astrate,</EM> where having

satisfied

your self, with herbarizing

you may returne

to <EM>Freiust;</EM> loaden

with Seeds,

and Plants,

and there consider them

at your ease: From thence you may return to <EM>Marseills</EM>

in two days

and so to <EM>Avignion,</EM>

by the way of <EM>Arles, Sainct

Eloy de Cro<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Tarascon.</EM> At <EM>Arles,</EM> remember to see the entry into

a great Passage all Vaulted,

which they say goes

under the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

to <EM>Nismes,</EM> &amp; was

made

by the <EM>Romans.</EM>

At <EM>Tarascon,</EM> you will see on the other side of the

River <EM>Bea<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>caire,</EM>

most famous for a very great Faire

or Market, keept

there once a Year, to which great

Numbers

of Merchants

from many Places

of the <EM>Levant,</EM> do resort.</P>

<P>

From <EM>Avignion,</EM>

you go <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

<EM>Nismes,</EM> but you must part by

times

in the morning that you may

have the conveniencie

to see <EM>Pont de Gard,</EM>

which is

one of the finest

Peeces

of Antiquity extant in the World. It

is

a Part of that A

57

Aqueduct, which the <EM>Romans</EM>

built

for conveying

a part of the water of the <EM>Rhosne</EM>

from the <EM>Pont</EM> St. <EM>Esprite</EM> to

<EM>Nismes,</EM> &amp; because at the Place where the Bridge

stands,

the River <EM>Gard</EM>

runs

low betwixt two

Hills,

there was

a necessity of raising

the Aqueduct so high as to level

the Tops

of these Hils,

therefore it hath

three Ranges

of <EM>Arches,</EM>

the lowermost are the

biggest

but fewest

in number; they are

likeways

the broadest,

for besides

that they support the second row of

<EM>Arches,</EM>

they do likeways

serve on the other side for a Passage and Bridge for foot,

Horse&#0183; and coaches

to the high-way: The second supports

the third, which are not so high, but many more in number, on

the Top of all is

the Aqueduct five or six foot broad, and four or five foot

deep, it is

compassed

with great Flag Stones

on all sides,

exceedingly

well cemented

together, insomuch that I beleeve

it be yet very intire,

except it be some few of the covering

Stones

that are broak

and fallen

away.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Nismes</EM> is

some three Leagues,

but

58

they are long ones,

from the <EM>Pont de Gard;</EM>

And I must tell you, altho'

the way you are to follow from <EM>Avignion</EM>

to <EM>Nismes,</EM> by the <EM>Pont de

Gard,</EM>

be for the most part very barren, yet you will find the

Weeds

for the most part are, <EM>Cistum ledum Narbonense, thime,

lavender, Satureia, mirtles,

timelaea, corranda, Smilax aspera, Lentiscus, Terebinthinus,

Staebe Salamantica, caliculis argenteis B. Ilex, Sabina

baccifera, Iunip: fructu majori,

Cistus mas, Cistus faemina, thymum cephaloton</EM>

</P>

<P>

Clematis, vel flammula repens, aespalathus&#0183; phyllarelea

Folio non serrata, Jesiminum luteum bacciferum, Stellaria

argente<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Ambrosia campestris, datura simplici

calice

albo, aster attious foliolis ad florem rigidis, aster lunariae

folio, flore trifolij. Jacea cianoides flore albo folio

multifido, trifolium

bituminosum, acarna lutea, Eringium

luteum monspel: bicopsis flore carnec, Carduus Spharocephalus

ceruleus, amaranthus

viridis, campanula flore plumeo, attriplex non

descript<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Semine singulari

59

binis foliolis incluso, Linaria minor

lutea, paliurus <EM>and a great

many more that I cannot remember of; but it will be well worth

the while to take a Note of the

Plants

you find in every Place.</EM>

</P>

<P>

At <EM>Nismes</EM> you must lodge <EM>Aux

Arenes;</EM> you will see

there a brave Amphitheatre

built

by the <EM>Romans,</EM>

in greater

integritie

yet than any that ever I saw

in <EM>Italy,</EM> the Stones

of which it is

built,

as well as the <EM>Pont de Gard,</EM>

are of incredible Bigness, and altho'

the things

themselves be somewhat ruined;

yet they show greater

Statelynesse and Magnificence than any modern

Building. There are some

other remaine<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

of antiquitie

about the Town which will be showen

you. From <EM>Nismes</EM> you take

Horses

for <EM>Mompellier,</EM> which is

a Days

Journey from it; You dine at <EM>Lunel</EM> which

is

about mid-way, and because I have nothing to say of this

Place, I shall intreat you to bring me three or four

ounces

of the Seeds

of <EM>palliurus,</EM> for amongst other

uses

they

60

serve for, they are the best Bullets

for Cauters that can be, but it

is

for an

other use I would have

them.

</P>

<P>You will do well to stay some

days

at <EM>Montpellier:</EM> You may lodge at the <EM>white

Horse,</EM> or otherways as you find your accommodation. It

is

a delicat sweet Town, the Streets

well built,

but narrow, because of the heats

which are as great here as in any place of <EM>France,</EM> nor

is

it strange it should be so, being

it is

near upon the same latitude with <EM>Rome.</EM> You will do well

to see the Physick

Schools,

there is

some Curiosities

to be seen

in them.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Physick-Garden;

in which you will find many excellent

Plants;

by making

a little acquaintance with

the Gardener, you may command what

Seeds

he has.</P>

<P>

<EM>3ly.</EM> You will do well to make

acquaintance with some of

the Students

or young Doctors

of Physick,

by whose means

and in whose company you may see all the

places

about <EM>Monpelier</EM> that are fit for

Herbarizing,

as particularly

<EM>Magelon,</EM> a little Island of the

Mediterranean

61

Sea, lying

within Sight of <EM>Monpellier.</EM> But by all

means

of the World, you must be sure to make a Journey ten or twelve

Leagues

from <EM>Mompellier,</EM> to a Place amongst the

Hils,

which for the great varity

of Plants,

that is

found in and about it, is

called

<EM>Hortus Dei.</EM>

</P>

<P>You may likeways

find some variety of Shells

and productions

of the Sea, to <EM>Mompellier</EM> and the

Shoar,

or Coast, which is

near the Town.</P>

<P>I must not omit to tell you, that if you please to make a

Collection of dry Plants,

this is

a very fit Place for it, both because of the heat which

helps

to dry them,

both soon and well; &amp; also because

of the Garden &amp; Fields,

that abound with Plants,

that are not common, &amp; likeways,

because of the good occasion you have to send

them

in a Box, close packt

up, (as you have seen

mine) to <EM>Lions,</EM>

&amp;c.</P>

<P>

In like manner, if you will make a Collection of

Seeds,

the best will be to keep them

in their Seed-Vessels,

and

62

write upon every parcell,

that you may dispose of them

afterwards

according

to your pleasure.

</P>

<P>

This I wish you to do in every Place, that

afterwards

when it shall please God to bring you

safely

to bring them

home, Tho' you should not be able to raise

them

in this climat,

yet you might have enough to know

them

by. Do not forget the Booksellers

here, who may possibly

have some of the Books

you look for. I must desire one Favour of you in this Place,

that You would be pleased

to enquire

after the <EM>Psilothrum</EM> or Depilatory Ointment, which

they use in <EM>Rome</EM> in the

Baths,

and which I was

so Unluckie

as not to mind when I was

upon the place. It you can find the Receipt, cause make some

small quantity of it to try

if it be Right, which you will easily

know by this, that being

rubbed

upon any hairy place, within a little space, when you come to

wipe it off, it takes

the hair without burning

or scalding

the Skin; but if it either burn or discolour the Skin, it

is

not right. The

63

place is

afterward to be washed

with a little warm Water. I must

likeways

intreat you to be at ths pains

to cause dry me a Viper or two, it will be

enough to dry their

Skins

with the heads

at them,

stopped

with Flax, or Cotton: but in no way must you

medle

with them

your self, because there is

Danger, but imploy

one of those fellows

that brings

them

to the Apothecaries,

who for a small matter will do it. Some day or other, you may

be at the paines

to see <EM>Frontiniague</EM> famous for that generous Moschat

Wine, called

by the name of the place, you may Collation there, and

Harbarize as you go and come.

</P>

<P>

When you are satisfied

here, it will be fit to set forward to <EM>Thoulouse.</EM> You

will see by the way, <EM>1st. Pesenas</EM> a

Pretie

Town, where it may fall you to Dyne,

<EM>Au tapis vert,</EM> hard by the Town, there

is

a very fine House, with excellent

Gardens,

belonging

to the <EM>Prince</EM> of <EM>Condie,</EM> it

is

worthy of your seeing.

<EM>2ly. Beziers; 3ly. Narbone,</EM>

which is

a very strong and well fortified

Town, near upon

64

the borders

of <EM>Catalonia.</EM> It hath

communion with the Sea, by

means

of a little River, that runs

through the Town. Be pleased

to see the great Church, and in it a

Peece

of excellent Painting,

representing

the History of our Saviour's raising

<EM>Lazarus</EM> from the Dead. Take

likeways

notice of the Organes,

the great Pipes

whereof <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>stand

by the Pillar sides,

at a great distance from the Organ

roome,

and have the Wind conveyed

to them

by a secret conduct; which tho' it be no difficult thing, yet

it is

not common.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Narbonne,</EM> you have six or seven

Leagues

to <EM>Carcassone;</EM> They are two, <EM>Ville</EM> and

<EM>City;</EM> the City stands

upon a hight about half a Leagues

distance from the Town: It is

twice encompassed

with Walls

and Ditches,

and is

very strong, as being

upon the <EM>Frontiers</EM>

o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Catalonia.</EM> The Town stands

below in the Plaine,

and is

much larger,

better <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>uilt,

and better inhabited,

&amp; Walled

about with a more modern kind of

Fortification. The Town

is

commended

for

65

Cloath-works,

&amp; making

of Combs:

The Tradesmen

use to bring them

to the Innes

as soon as they understand any Stranger

to be arrived;

but your best will be to go to their

Houses,

and see all, &amp; try severals,

for so you may best please your self, and make the best

bargain too. There is

of all Prices,

insomuch that I have seen

ten Pistoles refused

for one single Comb, of Box-Wood. But

indeed it

was

of a vast bigness and most curiously

carved.

You may have very good ones

for three, foure,

or five Livres

a peece,

as also some for 30, 40, &amp; 50

Solds.

To be short, there is

of all kindes

and prices,

and I shall earnestly

intreat you, to bestow foure

or five Crowns,

upon some of the midle

sort, that is

next to the best, and some again of the next degree to

them

for me, (because of the

carving)

to add to my <EM>Tradescants.</EM> They must be

packt

up in a little wooden Box, which the

Tradesmen

know very well how to do.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Carcassone</EM> to <EM>Thoulouse,</EM> you have

twelve Leagues,

viz. Foure

to

66

<EM>Vilpeinte,</EM> two to <EM>Castelna<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>&#0183;

d' Arri,</EM> two to <EM>Vignonnet</EM> and four to

<EM>Thoulouse.</EM> The Second Town (in the opinion of some)

in <EM>France,</EM> how justly,

I leave to your self, when you shall see it. The Town indeed

is

very big, and well built,

all of Brick; But not very populous, I think for the want of

Trade, in regard it lyes

farr

from the Sea. Amongst other

things,

take notice of the following

particulars

<EM>1st.</EM> The Town House, in the Court whereof they Show

you the place where the Scaffold

was

erected,

that <EM>Monsr: de Momorancy</EM>

was

beheaded

upon, and some of his Blood yet

Sticking

upon the Wall. <EM>2ly.</EM> The

Parliament House, into

which (if it be sitting)

you must neither carry Sword, nor

Spurs,

unless you make account to pay a Forfaulter. <EM>3ly.</EM> The

Bridge over the River <EM>Garonne,</EM> which

is

very stately, built

of Brick, somewhat after the Model of the new Bridge of

<EM>Paris,</EM> having

a Foot walk raised

on every side, so that these that pass on foot, are not

troubled

with Coaches,

Cairts, &amp;c.

67

that pass in the midle.

<EM>4ly.</EM> In the convent

(as I take it) of the <EM>Cordeliers,</EM>

there is

a Peece

of ground under a Chapel,

belonging

to the Church, wherein all Dead

Bodies,

that lye

eight and fourtie

hours,

are so dryed,

but without the consumption of

any substantiall

part, that they become incorruptible for ever thereafter. They

will show you in a Vault, hard by the

Chapell,

some hundred of Bodies,

standing

about the

Walls

intire

and dryed,

as I have said,

amongst the rest they show one bodie

of a Woman, called

<EM>la Belle Paule,</EM>

Mistrels as it is

said

to some King, whose name I do not remember: But it

is

some hundreds

of Years

since she died,

and yet me thinks

there is

a beautifull

Proportion observable in her Face. The rest of the

curiosities

consist in

Churches,

religious-houses,

&amp;c. which I leave to your self.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Thoulouse</EM> to <EM>Montauban</EM> you about

halfe

a Dayes

Journey, it is

famous for the Protestant University; It

stands

somewhat high and declines

68

a little toward the Bridge, that

stands

over the <EM>Tarne,</EM>

which not far below the Town, casts

it self into the <EM>Garonne.</EM> It

hath

many fine Fountains;

but especially

one, which they call the <EM>Gri<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>one.</EM>

It hath

good trafique,

because of the situation betwixt <EM>Thoulouse</EM> and

<EM>Limoge</EM> and

<EM>Paris,</EM> as also because of the

Commoditie

of the River, to <EM>Bourdeaux:</EM>

the Town and Bridge are all built

of Brick. It was

formerly

very strong, but because of its

Rebellion is

now Dismantled

of all Fortification.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Moutauban</EM> to <EM>Bourdeaux,</EM>

you may go by Water in a very short Time, because the River

is

rapid; the Countrey

about is

very fertile and Pleasant. You will see by the Way,

<EM>Agen,</EM>

an

ancient City, where <EM>Iulius

Scaliger</EM> was

Born: within 4 or 5 Leagues

of <EM>Bourdeaux</EM>

stands

<EM>Cadiliac,</EM> a most delicate

<EM>Castle,</EM> belonging

some time to the <EM>Duke d' Espernon;</EM> You must not faill

to see them.</P>

<P>

At <EM>Bourdeaux,</EM>

I did

lodge <EM>au Chapeau

rouge;</EM> but I have been

told

since,

69

that there are more commodious <EM>Inns</EM>

in Town, which You may easily

be addressed

to. You will meet with severall

of our Countreymen

in this Place; But particularly,

Sir <EM>David Inglish,</EM> and <EM>Harie Iossy&#0183;</EM>

are of my acquaintance.

And therefore, I must desire you to see

them,

&amp; permit this, to present them

my service. I must likeways

intreat you, to be at the

pains,

to enquire

for a Doctor of Physick,

of the Religion that

lives

here, whose name I have forgotten;

but you will know him

by this, that he hath

written

in French Something against Doctor

<EM>Willes

de Febribus:</EM> which I remember Sir <EM>David Inglish,</EM>

did

once send me to <EM>Paris.</EM> And therefore, he may

Probably

know the Man: The Reason I desire You to speak with

him,

is,

That you may learn from himself, what he

hath

Published,

upon this or any other Subject; and whatsoever they be, I must

intreat You earnestly,

to buy them

for me; for I have a very great

Honour for the

Mans

Parts,

tho' I know

70

not his Person; and I had

the evil Luck to lend that Book, which Sir <EM>David

Inglish</EM> sent

me, to a Doctor at <EM>Paris,</EM> that

did

never render it me again.

Remember to see in the Town, <EM>1st. Piliers tutilarrs,</EM>

which are the Ruins

of an

Ancient <EM>Roman Temple. 2ly.</EM> The

Ruins

of an

Amphitheatre, without the Town, of <EM>Roman</EM> Antiquity

likeways.

<EM>3ly.</EM> The <EM>Cheasteau

Trompette,</EM>

in which there is

a Garison

keept

by the King. It was

pulled

down by the Citizens,

in the Time of their last Rebellion; but since

re-built

much better and stronger.

<EM>4ly.</EM> The <EM>Port,</EM> which if you happen to see in

the Time of Vintage, will be well

furnished

with Ships

from all Places,

and it may be from <EM>Scotland. 5ly.</EM> That

peece

of Ground without the Town, which they call <EM>Grave;</EM>

which brings

forth the best Wine about <EM>Bourdeaux,</EM>

and which for the most part is

sold

within the Town, at as great a Rate as ordinary

<EM>French</EM> Wine gives

with us: And therefore being

there is

no great quantity of it, and that it

71

would not turn the Merchants

to Accompt to send it here,

you may easily

guesse

how much <EM>Graves</EM>

Wine We Drink in <EM>Scotland,</EM>

altho'

Our People are pleased

to Flatter themselves, that all their

Clarets

are such; The rest I leave to others, to inform you of. I must

only tell you, You will meet with as good

Fruits

here as in any place of <EM>France, Des Treffices</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Tuberae Terrae,</EM> they are found under the Ground by

the Hogs,

who use to smell them

before they come at them,

and by the noise and gests

they make, give notice to their

keeper, who presently

puts

them

by, and Digs

the <EM>Trefice</EM> for himself:

They are in great esteeme,

&amp; being

Boyled

and pared,

use to be eaten

by themselves with Pepper and Oyle,

or else cut down with other things

<EM>en Ragoust.</EM> There

are likeways

here a kind of small Birds

but exceeding

fatt,

which they call <EM>Ortolans,</EM>

which are much prized

for great Delicacies.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Bourdeaux</EM>

you go to <EM>Rochelle.</EM> In the way you pass by these

Places;

first

72

<EM>Blay, Ville et City,</EM> The City

stands

on a Hight and Commands

the River. It was

at this Place that of old the <EM>English</EM>

Ships

were

Obliged

to liver their Canon, which were

permitted

the <EM>Scots</EM>

(as a Priviledge)

to keep a Board; as they passed

to <EM>Bourdeaux.

2ly. Xaintes</EM> or <EM>Saintes,</EM>

the Capital Town of <EM>Xaintonge;</EM> It

stands

upon the River <EM>Charante;</EM> here are some

Rests

of <EM>Roman</EM> antiquity, as of

an

Amphitheatre, &amp;c. But especially

of an

Arch, upon the Bridge over the <EM>Charante,</EM>

on which you will read this inscription.

<EM>Caesari nep: D. Iulij

Pontifici A.</EM> There is

also an

inscription, on the reverse which I remember not. You will see

likeways

here a Steeple, the Stairs

whereof that lead to the Top are on the outside. <EM>3ly.

Brouage;</EM> about half a Days

Journey from <EM>Saintes,</EM>

a little, but one of the most regularly

fortified

Towns

in all <EM>France,</EM> in which there

is

a continuall

Garison

keept,

as a Guard for the Salt, of which vast

quantities

is

made

here, by the heat of the Sun every Year in this manner. They

let

73

in the Sea water by a <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

cut purposely

in the ground into severall

ponds,

cut out likeways

of purpose of a certain

deepness: they fill them

in the Summer time, and then

stop the entries

that no more water come in; when the Sun

hath

co<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cted it

enough, they gather it together

i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eaps, and

carry it to

places

appointed

for it. The Town stands

upon a little River which i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

navigable, because the Sea flowes

a good way above it, the Salt marshes

about the Town, are little less than four

Leagues

about, &amp; render the Town by so much the more strong. You

must be sure to arrive there at a good Hour in the day, for at

Sun-setting

the Gates

are shut, and none whatsoever can enter. You must Salute the

Governour,

or in his absence, the Chief<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>Off<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cer,

and desire Libertie

of him

to view the Town, which he will

readily

grant you, and appoint a Souldier

to wait upon you; from the Walls,

you will discover the Marshes

about the Town, and then he will bring you to the

<EM>Arsenal,</EM> and there you will see their Magazine of

Ai<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s, and

then having

given

74

something to the Souldier

to drink, you may thank the Governour

&amp; take leave of him.

This is

all that is

to be seen

in this place except you make account

to see the Isle of <EM>Ol<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rone,</EM>

which lyes

without the mouth of the little

River, about a League or two in

the Sea.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Brouage</EM> you have seven

Leagues

to the <EM>Rochell,</EM> upon the Way to which you will have

occasion to see a great many Sea-Plants,

such as <EM>Kali, Kali Spinosum, Salicornia, Cakeile

S<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rapionis,

Papaver corniculatum luteum, Eringium Marinum, Crithmum;</EM>

with many others.</P>

<P>The <EM>Rochel</EM> is

much more famous for what it was,

than for what it is,

It was

the strongest

hold, the Protestants

had

in <EM>France,</EM> but after the

taking

of the Town by <EM>Lewes</EM>

the <EM>13th.</EM> the Walls

thereof were

quite demolished,

so that scarcely

the vestiges thereof remaine:

the Harbour is

considerable, for it enters

within the midle

of the Town. At <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>resent

it hath

a considerable trafique

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> Salt, white

Wines,

&amp;c.</P>

<P>

75

You must be at the pains

to see the Isle of <EM>Re,</EM> about a League from the Town,

but not above a quarter of a League from the Land. As you go

from the <EM>Rochel,</EM> to the place where you are to take

Boat to cross over, they will show you the

Ruins

of that Digue, which <EM>Cardinal

Richlieu</EM>

caused

make by sinking

of Barks,

loaden

with Stones,

to hinder all relief for the Town by Sea, and it

was

observeable,

that the very day after the Town

surrendered,

the Digue was

broke

down by Storm, which if it had

done

but three days

sooner,

it may be justly

questioned

whether the Town had

ever been

taken,

especially

seeing

the <EM>English</EM> Fleet was

ryding

before the Isle of <EM>Re.</EM>

</P>

<P>

In the Isle of <EM>Re,</EM> there

is

a <EM>Citadale,</EM> near to which you will be put a Shore

upon the Island, but it is

not usual to permit

Strangers

to enter into it. At the east end of the Island, there

is

a little Town called

St, <EM>Martines,</EM>

in which there are many <EM>Dutch</EM>

Families,

because of the great trafique

the Dutch hath

with

76

this place, for Salt and white-Wines.

The Island is

generally

of a Sandie

Soil, and only made

fertile by the Sea-<EM>Ware</EM> which they throw upon it, and

which in my Opinion is

the cause, that all the Wines

both of the Island and about the <EM>Rochel</EM>

tast

brackish, especially

when they begin to be old. You will find

amongst other

Plants

upon the Island aboundance

of <EM>Pancratium,</EM> except you come in the latter Season

of the Year, when probably

it may not be found. You may returne

at Night to the <EM>Rochelle,</EM> from whence you have a

Messenger to <EM>Paris,</EM> upon the way to which there

is

nothing that I need to trouble you with, except

<EM>Poictiers,</EM>

that I have not seen

my self, and therefore can say nothing of; From

<EM>Poicteirs</EM> your way is

to <EM>Amboise</EM> midway betwixt <EM>Tours</EM> and

<EM>Blois</EM> of which before.

</P>

<P>

I must advertise you here, that if you please you may make

this <EM>Tour</EM> an

other way <EM>viz.</EM> To

<EM>Nantes,</EM>

as in the former advice

concerning

the <EM>Petit Tour,</EM> as far as

<EM>Nantes,</EM>

from thence to the <EM>Rochell,

77

Bourdeaux,

Toulouse, Narbonne, Montpellier,

Avignion,</EM>

and so all the rest throw <EM>Provence;</EM> and then back to

<EM>Avignion,</EM>

from whence to <EM>Lions,</EM>

and so to <EM>Paris</EM> with the messenger, or coach, which

you like best. For your better understanding

in the Country, it will be fit to carry a Map, or

<EM>Carte</EM>

of <EM>France</EM> along with you, to look upon the situation

of every place as you pass, for

doing

of which a litle

time will suffice once a day. Let it be

illuminat

for the more easie

discerning

the different counties

and their bounding.

You will do well likewise to carrie

a Book with you in 80. called

<EM>Le Voyage de France,</EM> which will inform you of many

particulars,

that either were

not at all seen

and observed

by me, or else have escaped

my Memory; and indeed it is

no great wonder if they have, having

been

so lazie

as not to make any <EM>Memoire</EM>

of them

whilst they were

yet recent in my mind. And this

is

one Reason of the tumultuarinesse and disorder of this Letter,

but I am

well pleased

to think, that by the amendements

78

you will make both in seeing,

observing,

and writing

down all things

more particularly,

we shall have occasion

afterward to put the Voyage in a better Dress; I must

likeways

beg your Pardon for not having

writen

to you sooner,

having

been

several times

called

out of Town since I began

to write this Letter: If you find it tedious in

reading,

blame your self for being

the cause thereof, and be the more patient, in

regard I shall not have

occasion to be any more so tedious, unless you go for

<EM>Italy,</EM> and give me a timeous advice of your

Intentions.

</P>

<P>

I shall conclude all with my best

wishes

for your health &amp; happy Return, &amp; most

earnestly

intreat you not to grudge us with the

effects

of a Spare hour, that seeing

at this distance, we cannot be so happy, as to enjoy you

personally;

we may at least by this next best way

entertain a Correspondence,

which I assure you will be a great Kindness to your

Friends

here, but to none so much as

79

to my self who cannot be indifferent in any thing, that

concernes

you, And therefore cannot but be

sollicitous,

to hear often from you, as the only thing, that can supply the

want of your person, So much desired

and longed

for, by &amp;c.

</P>

<BR><BR>

81

<BR><H4>LETTER III.</H4>

<BR><H4>CONTAINING

Advice for Travelling

into ITALY.</H4>

<BR><H4>Written

to a Friend</H4>

<P>

IT is

much better to go into <EM>Italy</EM> in the latter end of

<EM>Autumn,</EM> than in the <EM>Spring;</EM> Because the

Change of the Air is

not so much from one Extreme

to another in that Season, as in the other; for the Mildness

of the Winter in <EM>Italy</EM>

(especialy

upon the <EM>South</EM> side of the <EM>Appennine</EM>) doth

not so much recede from the

Temperatness of <EM>Autumn</EM> in <EM>France,</EM> as the

Heat of <EM>Summer</EM> in <EM>Italy</EM>

exceeds

the Mildness of the <EM>Spring</EM> in

82

<EM>France.</EM> It is

certain, that if a Man intend to stay but a half a Year, it

is

better to begin the Journey in <EM>Autumn,</EM> and

finish it in the

<EM>Spring,</EM> than to begin in the <EM>Spring,</EM> and

finish it in <EM>Autumn,</EM> and so be obnoxious to the

excessive

Heats

of Summer. If one intend to stay one or more

Years,

it is

undoubtedly

best to begin the Journey in <EM>Autumn,</EM> because the

Winter, being

much more clement than usually

it falls

out with us, will be easily

supported,

&amp; all the Heat that happens

in the following

Summer, in regard it comes

by degrees,

will not so readily

affect the Body, that

hath

been

already inured

to the Air of the climate, for some Time before.

</P>

<P>

The most convenient way of making

the Toure

of <EM>Italy,</EM> (in my opinion)

is

to go through <EM>Provence</EM> to <EM>Cane,</EM> a small

inconsiderable Town upon the <EM>Frontiers</EM>

of <EM>Provence,</EM> and there to hire a Felluck to

<EM>Genoua,</EM>

and, if you cannot get one at

<EM>Cane,</EM> to go to <EM>Nize,</EM> which

is

but six or seven Leagues

further,

83

where you will be sure to find one; a Felluck

is

ordinarily

of four Oares,

and hath

this advantage that you go in it <EM>Ter' a Terre,</EM> that

is

so near the land, that in the case of any danger by Storm or

otherwise, you may easily

run on Shoar

and escape it, and besides,

land as often as there is

any Town or other thing worthy the

seeing,

and likewayes

ly a Shoar

every Night, at some good Town or other. A Felluck will serve

to carrie

half a dozen of persons

with ease, besides

the Rowers:

The Price is

not fixt

but more or less as the Fellucks

happen to be more or

fewer

in number. Ours

cost us about 11 or 12 Crowns,

in regard there were

but few at <EM>Cane,</EM> but you may chance to get one for 8,

or 9. especially

if ye be few in number and not much Baggage; You may provide

every morning to take along with you, Wine and what

Victuals

you please, the rather because sometimes

it will happen that you will have no conveniency of any Town

about Mid-day, and therefore must Dine aboard Your Fellucke.

</P>

<P>

84

The first thing You will meet with, worthy the

taking

notice of, is

<EM>Nize,</EM> a City belonging

to the Duke of <EM>Savoy,</EM> it

lyes

near to the Sea syde,

at the very foot of the <EM>Alps,</EM> and

hath

a very strong Cittadale belonging

thereto: some two miles

from thence stands

<EM>Villa Franca,</EM> one of the best

Ports

in <EM>Italy,</EM> it belongs

likewise to the Duke of <EM>Savoy,</EM> and

is

guarded

with two Castles,

one whereof stands

on the top of a Rock, upon which

growes

in great aboundance

the <EM>Ficus Indica.</EM> Some three

miles

farther upon the Coast stands

the Town and Palace of <EM>Monaco,</EM> or <EM>Morgues,</EM>

It is

a Principalitie

by it self, and hath

very litle

land belonging

to it: The place is

strong standing

upon a Rock, which is

not accessible, save at

the side where the Palace stands,

and where it joynes

with the land, all the rest being

compassed

with the Sea. In the Palace they use to show 1. The

Princes

Wairdrob, in which there is

good store of Silver plate, and other Rich furniture, 2.

Severall

rooms

as Halls,

Galleries,

Chambers

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> well

85

furnished

with Hangings,

Cabinets,

Pictures,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> 3. A little Garden upon the top of the Rock,

behind the Palace, made

up of earth brought

thither on purpose. At the foot of the Hill near the Town

there are store of <EM>Carobe</EM>

Trees,

or <EM>Siliqua Dulcis, Bauhini</EM> in

<EM>Pinace.</EM>

</P>

<P>

I must not omit to tell You that you must be sure at your

first leaving

of <EM>France</EM> in the last Town that You happen to be in,

whither it be <EM>Cane</EM> or any other, to get a Certificate

of your health and freedome

from the Plague, as also of the freedom of that Town. There

are persons

appointed

in every place for giving

of such Bills,

or <EM>Patents

de Sainte,</EM>

as they call them.

Their Subscriptions

are known

to the next Townes

about, where you are to go, so that it

is

not easie

to counterfit,

and besides

it were

very dangerous to doe so;

They are very scrupulous in

this matter upon all the Coast of <EM>Liguria,</EM> for fear

of contagion; So that when you arrive at any Town, before you

go a shore, you must send one of your

Boat-men,

with your Certification to be

86

shown

to such as are appointed

for those matters

in that Place, who immediately

upon the Sight of the Bill permit you, <EM>la Practica,</EM>

that is

Libertie

to stay in the Town as long as you please, and do what you

will. When you part from that, You must take a new

Certificat

to the next Place, and so of the Rest

untill

you come at <EM>Ligorn,</EM> where this niceness will end.

</P>

<P>

You must carrie

with you no Secret Weapon, as Dagger, Pocket

Pistols,

or the like: And this is

general all over <EM>Italy,</EM>

except only in the Kingdom of <EM>Naples,</EM> and

States

of <EM>Venice</EM> and <EM>Milan,</EM> where it

is

permitted

to wear Daggers.

At most Towns

in <EM>Italy,</EM> You will be oblidged

to leave yonr Hulster-Pistols,

and sometimes

your Sword with the Guard at the Gate you enter in by: And

then they will ask you, by what Gate you are to go out, and

accordingly

Your Arms

will wait for you, which they will know to be

yours,

by the delivery of a Nick-stick

given

You as you enter, and which for that purpose,

87

You must carefully

keep. In most Places,

Strangers

are permitted

to weare

their Swords.

Your Cloak-Bag likeways

will be visited

at every Town, to to see that there be no Customable

Goods

in it, and if there be any Books,

you must give up a List of them

to the Visitor, or Inquisitor appointed

for that end, and he will Signe

it with Order to let

them

pass, Providing,

there be no Prohibited

Book amongst them,

For if there were

any such, it would be Dangerons;

yet there are wayes

enough to convey Books,

or any other thing of whatsoever Nature, or Quality, from any

Sea-port, without any Danger,

which you will easily

understand, after your

being

a while in the Country.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Monaco</EM> you will

easily

reach <EM>Oneglia,</EM> which is

at about twelve Miles

distance, and about 5 Miles

further <EM>Albenga,</EM> from thence you have seven

Miles

to <EM>N<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>li,</EM>

&amp; ten more to <EM>Savona,</EM> from whence there

rests

five Miles

to <EM>Genoua,</EM></P>

<P>

All the Coast, of <EM>Liguria,</EM> from <EM>Nize</EM> to

88

<EM>Genoua,</EM>

&amp; some days

Journey beyond <EM>Genoua</EM>

towards

<EM>Ligorn,</EM> is

nothing but rude <EM>Alps,</EM> for the most part infertile

and unhabitable, except towards

the Bottom near the Sea, where there are little

Smal

Valleys

here and there, both delicious

and Fruitfull.

For the rest it is

wonderfull

to see with what industry &amp; trouble, they have

been

able to place little smal

Villages,

as it were

in the Clefts

of the Hills,

and Plant Olive Trees,

where one would think nothing but

crows

could venture to Big. All this Tract

is

extreamly

hot, especially

in Summer, being

directly

opposit

to the South, and altogether guarded

from the North, So that the reflection of the Sun

beames,

makes

a Heat almost insupportable.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Genoua

la Superba,</EM> so called

from the sumptuousness of its

Buildings,

and so they use to give other epithets

to other Towns,

as <EM>Roma la Saneta,

Fiorenza la Bella, Bolognia la Grassa, Padua la Dotta, Venetia

la Rieta,</EM> &amp;c. It is

said

that <EM>Genoua</EM>

has

<EM>Montagnie senza legno, Mare senze pesce, Donne senza

Vergonia,

89

&amp; Gente senza sede.</EM>

It is

a Republick

&amp; the Government administred

by a Senate. It is

a City of great Trade and very Rich, and it

is

said

they account usury no great Sin: It

being

their Maxim, that <EM>Cento per Cento e Niente, Cento

Cinquanto per Cinto e quelcha cosa, du Cento per Cento e

quadagnio Hone<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>io.</EM>

You may take notice in the Place; First, of the

Situation of the Town, and

so you may Herbarize

towards

the West-side. <EM>2ly.</EM> The Senate House, <EM>3ly.</EM>

The Churches,

and particularly

that of St. <EM>Lorenzo,</EM> which

is

the Cathedrall,

a Stately Fabrick

Crusted

with Marble. <EM>4ly.</EM> That famous Street,

called

<EM>la Strada Nova,</EM> which is

composed

of so many Palaces,

most of them

of Marble: you must by all means

endeavour to see the most considerable

Palaces.

Within you will find them

most delicatly

Adorned

with all sorts

of fine Things,

as Statues,

Paintings,

&amp;c. You must also see their

Gardens,

where besides

severall

sorts

of Flowers,

Shrubs,

and Trees,

you will likeways

90

find delicat Fountains,

Fish-ponds,

and Grotto's; as particularly

in the Palace of the <EM>Principe d'Oria;</EM> I would

likeways

have you see the Palace of <EM>Signior Baldi,</EM> and some

other Houses

of Pleasure especially

towards

the Sea-port, where they stand at the foot of the Hill over

looking

one another as they mount in degrees

in form of a Theatre, and all of

them

having

a full view of the Sea-port, which

is

very spacious and very deep; but in my Opinion, not so very

well guarded

from stormes.

That which I find most considerable in it

is,

the <EM>Mole,</EM> which secures

the entrie

thereof, it being

the best and strongest

and in the deepest

Water I ever saw.

At the east end of the port there

is

a litle

Promontory called

<EM>Capo de Fara,</EM> upon which

stands

a High Turret, which they call <EM>la Lantern&acirc;,</EM>

from the Top whereof they use to

discover all

Vessells

at Sea at a considerable distance. <EM>5ly.</EM> Forget not to

visit the Book-Sellers,

but in Regard this is

a generall

Remark not to be omited,

in every Town where there any, I shall

91

say no more of it here, but shall put You in mind of it now

and then.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Genoua</EM>

You must again provide Your self of a Felluck to

<EM>Ligorn,</EM> which you will find

readier

and at an

easier

rate, because of the more frequent

Traffick

and intercourse, than from <EM>Cane</EM> or <EM>Nize,</EM> you

will pass by <EM>Porta Fino, Leresi,

Viaregia,</EM> &amp;c. and you

wil

not find many things

considerable more than I have already

noted

on the Coasts

of <EM>Liguria</EM> betwixt <EM>Genoua</EM>

and <EM>Nize,</EM> except that when ye pass <EM>Leresi</EM> a

litle,

you begin to discover a large plain, part of which

belongs

to the state of <EM>Genoua,</EM>

and therein are the Quarries

that furnish all <EM>Italy</EM> with the best Marble, and the

rest is

the Principality of

<EM>Massa;</EM> For the better seeing

of which if you please you may go from

<EM>Genoua</EM>

by Horse to <EM>Ligorne.</EM></P>

<P><EM>Tuscany</EM> begins

about <EM>Viaregia,</EM> the greatest

part whereof is

under the Dominion of the Great

Duke of <EM>Tuscany.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>Ligorn</EM> is

no antient,

but yet a very Handsom

and well built

City, by <EM>Ferdinand</EM>

the first, Great DUKE of <EM>Tuscany,</EM> of

whom

you will see a most

92

stately Statue or rather Colosse, with

slaves

Chain'd at his Feet,

on each side kneeling;

a litle

without the Gate as you go to the Sea-Port. The Town

is

regularly

fortified,

they say, by the contrivance

of the Duke of <EM>Northumberland,</EM> who

was

banished

out of <EM>England</EM> in the Reign of Queen

<EM>Eli<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>abeth,</EM>

and well receaved

and much esteemed

by the then Duke of <EM>Tuscany,</EM> for his excellent

parts

and Qualifications.

The Duke for incouragment

of Trade hath

granted

great Immunities

to Merchants

of all Nations

whatsomever,

which is

the great cause that the Town flourishes

so much in Trade, and is

so well Peopled:

Severall

Nations

have established

great Factories

here, but especialy

the <EM>English</EM> and <EM>Hollanders</EM>

who have made

this place, as it were

the staple of all their commerce into the <EM>Levant.</EM> The

<EM>Jews</EM>

also have a very great freedome

here and are not distinguished

by any particular Mark, as in other

places,

from other Merchants,

but live Honourably

in a particular Street of the Town,

built

by themselves,

93

yet not sequestrated

from the rest of the Town by any Wall or Gate, as they use to

be in all other places,

where I have seen

them.

The <EM>English</EM> Merchants

live very splendidly,

and are very hospitable and courteous,

especially,

to their Countrymen,

that Travell

that way, under which name they comprehend all that are

Subject to our King: The Jews

<EM>Synagogue</EM> here is

the best in <EM>Italy;</EM> and therefore

worthy your

seeing.

They observe our <EM>Saturnday,</EM>

so that if You please to stay, You may see their form of

Worship. You must take particular notice of the

<EM>Sea-Port,</EM> which is

undoubtedly

the most secure and finest

in all <EM>Italy,</EM> in which You will see the great

Dukes

<EM>Gallies,</EM>

which he kee<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s

for a Guard, to his Countrey

against the <EM>Turks</EM>

men

of War. It is

worth the while to see a <EM>Gallie</EM>

put out to Sea, or, as she comes

in, for so one may see the Discipline of the

Slaves

to whom

the <EM>Bosson</EM> delivers

the word of Command by the noise of a Whisle, the

diversitie

whereof they are as well

94

acquainted

with, as Horse-men

with a Trumper, or foot with a Drum. If You be diligent You

may meet with severall

curiosities,

some naturall,

some of Art, especially

from the <EM>Levant,</EM> and all at reasonable

Rates:

and for the more commodious doing

of this, it will be fitting

to make acquaintance with severall

Merchants,

especially

<EM>English,</EM> who will either inform You themselves, where

such things

are to be found, or else address

You to such Persons

in the Town, as may best hap to do it. It

is

likeways

necessary for You to have such acquaintance,

and amongst them

some one confident for returning

You Money from <EM>England,</EM>

or at least for returning

You, what Money You have not present Use for, to

<EM>Florence,</EM> as also for keping

correspondence with; that by this

means,

You may send any thing you please to Your confident at

<EM>London.</EM> And because this advice may be

usefull

in many other

Places;

I shall be more particular

in it here for all. I suppose then You

were

to send any little Ball for Trunk from <EM>Ligorne</EM> to

<EM>London;</EM> Your

95

way would be first to pass it at the

Custom house, where, I think

Books,

and curiosities

pay nothing but yet You must have

an

Order for Shipping

of them,

then You must agree with some <EM>English</EM> Master of a

Ship, bound

for <EM>London,</EM> for the portage, and

accordingly

draw a Bill of Loading---which is

of a common Stile bearing,

<EM>that such a Ball or Coffer marked,---(and

sometimes

it says,

marked

as on the Margen, and then the Mark whether it be

Letters

or Figures

or both, which is

put upon the Goods,

is

likeways

placed

upon the Margen of the</EM> Bill)

<EM>is

imbarked

This</EM>---Day <EM>of---and</EM> Year <EM>of God---aboard the

good Ship called---now in the Port of</EM> Ligorn, <EM>and

bound

for</EM> London, <EM>whereof</EM> Mr:---<EM>under God

is</EM>

Master, <EM>the which Ball is

consignable at</EM> London

<EM>to</EM> Mr---<EM>Merchant</EM> &amp;c. <EM>or bis Order,

for which he is

to Pay---</EM> English <EM>Mony,

he receiving

the said

Ball well conditioned,

without Skaith or Damage,</EM>

There must be three Copies

of this <EM>Bill,</EM> one You must subscribe, and give to the

Master of the Ship, for <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

96

Warrand

to carrie

his Fraught. The other two he must subscribe and give to You,

whereof You must send one by Post with a particular Letter of

advice, to Your correspondent at <EM>London,</EM> to

warrand

him

to call for the Goods,

at the Master of the Ship; and the other You must keep by You

for Your own security, in

case there should be any miscarriage,

either through the Skipper, or Merchants

fault, and then Your Goods

may be imbarked.

If You were

to send from <EM>Florence,</EM> then you must in the like

manner pass your

Goods

at the Customhouse; if

there be any Books

among them,

You must have a particular Licence

as I Noted

formerly,

and then cause unball them

at the Custom-house, and set your Mark upon

them,

and find out some Boat going

for <EM>Ligorn,</EM> (which you will be sure to do,) and take

a Note under the Boat-Masters

hand of the recept of such Goods

so marked,

consignable to such a Ma<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>n

Merchant in <EM>Ligorn,</EM> for which he

is

to pay so much Fraught, he receiving

the Goods

90

well conditioned.

This Note you must send by the Post to your Merchant in

<EM>Ligorn,</EM> together with Your acquittance at the Custom

house of <EM>Florence,</EM> which will serve to acquit

them

at <EM>Ligorn;</EM> together

also with particular advice to dispatch

them

by the first good occasion for <EM>London,</EM> and to take

Bills

of Loading

for them,

whereof you must desire one Copie

to be sent

to your self, which you must keep for your Security, as

said

is;

From <EM>Rome</EM> you must use the same conveyance to

<EM>Ligorn:</EM> But from <EM>Venice</EM> you must address

immediately

for <EM>London,</EM> and in

the same manner as from <EM>Ligorn.</EM> If you be to send any

thing over Land, where you go not

along your self, you must make two

Letters

of Voiture (having

first agreed

for the carriage at the Rate

of so much <EM>per Cent.</EM>) whereof you must give one to

the carrier, which

is

a kind of advice to the Person you address your

Goods

to, which is

in this form: suppose from <EM>Turine</EM> to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

you write thus,

</P>

<BR>

<BR>

Sir

<P>

I have sent

a Bundel marked---by---

91

Indweller in this Town, and Carrier to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

addressed

to You, which I desire you would be

pleased

to receive, and being

in good condition, Pay for it at the Rate of---<EM>per

Cent.</EM> and I shall hold you account thereof, or

otherways place it to the account of---at <EM>Paris,</EM> to

whom

I desire you to address the

Bundell

and send it with the first good Occasion, and I shall be

Accountable to him.

The carrier will part from hence, such a Day

being

the---<EM>Day</EM> of---and will arrive at

<EM>Lions</EM>

the---<EM>Day</EM> thereafter, the

Bundell

contains

no Merchant Goods,

being

only Books,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> for my own Privat

use and therefore not Customable I rest.

</P>

<BR>

SIR,

<EM>Yours</EM>

&amp;c.

<BR>

<BR><BR>

<P>THe other Letter of Voiture is

an

Obligation under the carriers

hand to You, which you must send by the Post to your

correspondent at <EM>Lions.</EM>

The Form of it ought to be as follows.</P>

<BR>

<P>

92

<EM>I</EM> Vnder

Subscribed

Carrier of <EM>Turin,</EM>

acknowledge to have received

from---the---<EM>Day</EM> of---at <EM>Turin</EM> a

Bundell

Marked---Weighing---addressed to---Merchant of

<EM>Lions</EM>

to whom

I promise to deliver it in good condition at

<EM>Lions,</EM>

(with the help of God) or to his Order, he

paying

me at the Rate of---<EM>per Cent.</EM> therefore. In witness

whereof I have subscribed

their presents

with my hand at <EM>Turin</EM> the---<EM>Day</EM>

of---Anno---

</P>

<BR><BR>

<P>

I Have been

the more particular in these things,

because altho'

they may seem to be triffles,

to those that are conversant

in such matters,

yet a small mistake, may be the occasion of a great

Miscarriage. I shall now

return to put You in mind of some other

particulars,

and 1. That in this Place, Oisters

are a very great Delicat, there

being

but one person that has

Priviledge

to sell them,

for which he payes

a considerable Sum

93

to the great Duke; I know not well from whence they are

brought,

but I am

sure it is

from a considerable Distance: They are

keept

in the Town-Ditch, on the East side of the Town, which

is

full of salt water, because it hath

communion with the Sea; the keeper

hath

a little House hard by, and according

to the number Bargained

for, takes

them

alive &amp; very fat out of the Ditch, &amp;

sells

them

at the Rate of a Pistole

the Hundred. They are many times

put into the Ditch little, and keept

untill

they be big enough, they taste very well, and are by far the

best in <EM>Italy.</EM> 2. To the East-ward of the Town, about

a Mile or little more, there is

an

Hill called

<EM>Monte Nero,</EM> upon which there

is

good harbarizing. You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide

with you to the Place. From <EM>Ligorn</EM> you have 15

Miles

of Smooth and Plain way to

</P>

<P>

<EM>Pisa.</EM> It is

an

Ancient City, sometimes

a common-wealth by it self, and then both Rich and populous:

But since it was

Reduced

under the command of

94

the great Duke of <EM>Tuscany,</EM> it

is

neither of the two; the far greater

part of the Inhabitants,

after the Town was

Reduced,

chusing

rather to abandon their Native Country, than their Liberty, or

at least preferring

a voluntar

Subjection abroad, to a necessitated

Slavery at home. The City is

large and Beautifull,

divided,

as it were

in two by the River <EM>Arno,</EM> and again

conjoyned

by a beautifull

Bridge, of white Marble. The Air of this Place, in Winter,

is

judged

to be more Temperate than

that at <EM>Florence,</EM> &amp; therefore the great Duke

uses

to pass the Winter here. There are many

things

considerable in this Town; as, <EM>1st.</EM> The great Church,

which is

a Stately Fabrick,

and well adorned

within, as also the <EM>Batistaria</EM> whereof the

Doores,

as also of the great Church, are all

covered

with Massive Brass, cast into delicat

Figures.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The crooked

Steeple, which leanes

to one side very far from the perpendicular; some people

alledge

it was

purposely

so built,

but I am

more apt to beleeve

that the ground hath

miss-given

on the one side

95

by little and little, or rather

insensibly,

which may be some part of the Reason, why it

hath

hung

together so long without

falling,

to which the excellencie

of the Cement and Workman-ship hath

contributed

very much; my opinion, to one that

narrowly

observes,

will not appear to be unreasonable, for the

outside

is

of so many Rows

of small Pillars

going

round about, and the lower-most Row, on that side that it

leanes

to, is

more than half hid

in the ground, where as those of the other are

wholy

to be seen;

which I suppose could not have happened

otherways, than as I have said.

<EM>3ly.</EM> The Buriall

Place, which is

the most stately I ever saw,

being

a long quadrangle, well walled

and galleried

about, in the midle

whereof are very many Monuments

of great antiquity, of many of the ancient noble

Families

of <EM>Pisa.</EM> They are most of

them

of white Marble in shape like a

Coffine,

wherein the Body of the Dead persons

was

laid:

Some of them

are carved

in one Fashion and some of

them

in another, and

96

some of them

into excellent Figures.

<EM>4ly</EM> The Dukes

Palace. <EM>5ly.</EM> The Physical Garden, together with the

Rarities

that are keept

in a Gallery belonging

to the Garden, where you will see a very great Collection of

Natural Curiosities.

The Garden uses

to have very rare exotick

Plants;

but in regard you can have no access to it, except by the

recommendation of the

Physitian,

that is

Professor of <EM>Botany</EM>

for the time, therefore I think it will be worth your while to

make your address to him,

for a Libertie,

first, to see the Garden and Gallery;

secondly,

to get from the Gardener or himself, the

Seeds,

of such as you have a mind to, and a

Peece

of the Plant for drying,

if you think fitting;

you must not be negligent here, for this

is

one of the best Gardens

in <EM>Italy,</EM> &amp; in my opinion

preferable to that of <EM>Padua,</EM>

especially

for exotick

Plants.

The University, for the

whole Estate of <EM>Tuscany,</EM>

is

keep'd here, and if you please you may see the

Schooles

for all Professions,

and particularly

that for the Lawes,

where

97

the most renowned

<EM>Bartholus</EM> did

teach. Amongst the Booksellers

you may find something to accommodat you,

because it

is

an

University Town, and I shall tell you here, because I do not

remember to have it

done

as yet, that, generally

speaking,

all sort of Books

in <EM>Italy,</EM> are cheaper

than in any other place where I have

been.

I pray You remember to get a

Couple of the Catalogues

of the Garden there, of the last Edition.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Pisa,</EM> You have but a small half

days

Journey, of very pleasant Way, to <EM>Luca,</EM> which

is

a Delicat little Town, a Republick

by it self, and having

but a very small Territory belonging

to it; it is

well and regularly

fortified

with a dry Ditch, which is

keept

very cleane

and in good Order, and allways

Green: the Republick

is

governed

by a Prince or Chief Magistrat,

whom

they choose of their own Town, and change

him

every two Month: So soon as any

one is

chosen,

he must leave his own House and

Friends,

and retire himself to the

98

Publick

Palace, where he is

assisted

by some other of the Nobles,

&amp; cannot come out untill

his Government be finished.

</P>

<P>The Humour of the people is

Chearfull

and very Civil, and contrary to the

Custome

of all <EM>Italy,</EM> Men

and Women

converse freely

amongst themselves or with Strangers.

They use Balls

&amp; Danceing,

much after the <EM>French</EM> Fashion; The Religious people use

to distill

Spirits

and Essences,

whereof you may provide what Quantitie

you please, both good, and good cheap, I wish you might help a

Friend to some of Orange-Flowers

and Myrtles;

The religious Women

likeways

use to make very prettie

Things,

and particularly

I remember they use to sell Stomagers of

quilted

Silk, which most people use to wear in the Winter-time, of one

Fashion or another.</P>

<P>

From <EM>Luca,</EM> if you please, you may go to

<EM>Pisloia,</EM> and so to <EM>Florence,</EM> or

otherways

returne

to <EM>Pisa,</EM> and from thence, either by Coach or Horse,

to <EM>Florene.</EM> If the

Weather be not too hot, it

99

is

better to go on Horse-back, in regard of the prospect of the

Countrie,

which cannot be had

in a Coach. <EM>Florence</EM> is

a new Town, but one of the most

beautifull

in all <EM>Italy,</EM> and therefore

called

<EM>Fioren<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

a la Bella;</EM> it is

situated

upon the River <EM>Arno,</EM> which

divides

it in two sev<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rall

places,

over which stands

four fair Bridges.

The City is

Counted

at least six miles

in Compass; The Beautie

of it consistes

in the Stateliness of the Buildings,

the great number of Palaces,

the neateness and cleannesse

of the Streets,

occasioned

by the largeness and smoothnes

of the Stones,

with which it is

paved;

the many large Places,

Fountains,

Statues,

Churches,

Towers,

Convents

&amp; Gardens;

Of all which it hath

very many of the best in <EM>Italy.</EM> There

is

scarce any thing in this City; which

is

not very well worthie

to be taken

notice of&#0183; but particularly.

1. The Dukes

two Palaces,

the Old and the New; In the new the great Duke himself

keeps

his Court. It is

a <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ost

magnificent Structure, o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

the <EM>T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>scan</EM>

Order of Architecture, but not finished

100

as yet; The Garden belonging

thereto is

very well furnished,

with Rare Plants

and Flowers;

of which the Catalogue is

Printed,

of which I desire You to bring alongs

a Couple of Copies.

It will not be a miss to make Acquaintance with the Gardener;

for, so you will get what Seeds

you please. The old Palace stands

in the great Place of the City, in the

midle

of which Place there is

a Stately Colossus of Brass, of <EM>Cosmus</EM> great Duke of

<EM>Florence</EM> a Horse back, by the Model whereof that of

<EM>Henry</EM> the great upon the new Bridge of <EM>Paris</EM>

was

made.

Near to the Entrie

into the Palace there are severall

other Noble Statues

of Marble: within the Palace

it self is

that so much famed,

over the World, Gallerie,

which is

composed

of many Roomes,

containing

great Varietie

of the choisest

Curiosities;

as Sta<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ues,

Busta's, Baserelieues,

Paintings,

Drawings,

Prints,

Cabinets,

Jewels,

Cameo's, Intaillia's, with all sorts

of <EM>Anticailles,</EM> with an

infinite number of Master-peeces

of latter

times.

Amongst other things,

there

101

is

a Chamber or two full of all sorts

of Armes,

amongst which those of <EM>Charles</EM> the Great and

<EM>Roland,</EM> with severall

Swords

of <EM>Henry</EM> the great, also a great Number of

Cymiters,

some whereof have their Scabbards

set with Rubies,

Emeralds,

and other precious Stones.

There is

an

ancient Buckler with a Medusa's Head,

Painted

by <EM>Michael Angelo bona rota.</EM> I remember to have

observed

some ancient Casaques, whose weight I

am

confident no Head could sustain, unless so

adjusted

to the rest of the Armour, and that to the

Sadle,

that the Horse must have carried

all. You must endeavour to

get a Writen

Inventure of the severall

Curiosities

in the Gallerie,

for without that it is

not possible to remember

every particular; Within this Palace, the great Duke

uses

to keep the most excellent Artisans

he can meet with, of all Trades,

to whom

he gives

considerable

Salaries

and Priviledges,

whom

you will do well to see, but especially

the Stone-Cutters,

of whose Art I intreat you to take particular notice, and what

102

Instruments

they use, and learne

at least as much of it as may serve to polish

Stones.

Amongst other Curiosities

of this Trade, You may see a New way of

Mosaick

Work, wherein the figure is

compleated

most delicatly,

both as to the parts

and Colours

thereof, by the Natural Colours

of the severall

peeces

of Stones

assembled

together; and which is

strange, all the lights

and shadows

requisite in

Painting

is

herein observed;

So that they can imitate Nature

allmost

as fully

this way as in Painting

it self. This way differs

from the old Mosaick,

in that the particular Peeces

that compose it, are of

different Figures

according

as the colours

require; for example, a Cherrie

because it is

all of one Colour, therefore

it may be represented

by a Red stone of a round Figure in one

Peece,

but the Stalk of it must be of an

other different figure: But in the old way, all the

peeces

were

Quadrangular, whatsoever might be the colour or thing to be

represented,

and of this kind of Mosaick

you will see a most excellent

103

Peece

in St. <EM>Peters</EM>

Church at <EM>Rome,</EM> representing

St. <EM>Michael</EM> the Arch-Angel

treading

upon the <EM>Devil.</EM> In this

Palace

likeways,

the great Duke keeps

a Chymical

Laboratorie,

called

<EM>la Funderia,</EM>

wherein are made

very many notable preparations

with great Faithfullness,

especially

Spirits

and Essences,

which may be bought

here at reasonable

Rates,

and without fear of being

cheated,

as to the goodnes

of the things,

<EM>2ly.</EM> Severall

Churches

and Convents,

particularly

the <EM>Dome</EM> the out-side whereof

is

the most beautifull

in <EM>Europe,</EM> being

all crusted

with Black. White and Red Marble,

fit<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>y

placed

together in regular figures.

The Church within

is

Paved

with black and white Marble,

and Richly

adorned

with Chapels

and Altars;

The Cupola is

very Large and Fine insomuch that the Golden Ball upon the Top

of it, which is

able to contain a great many Persons,

does

not appear from the Ground to be

bigger

than a good Foot-Bal; Near to the <EM>Dome</EM>

stands

<EM>Jota</EM>'s Towre,

one of the most

104

admirable Peeces

of Architecture, in the World; being

a square Steeple, without any spite on the Top of it, all

crusted

with black, white and red Marble, in most regular

figures

from the top to the bottom; near to it

stands

the round Chapel of St. <EM>John</EM>

delicately

payed

with Marble, and adorned

with statues,

with a Rich Vase adorned

with precious Stones,

wherein the Children

are Baptised.

The Doors

of the Chapel are of Brass, all in

Figures

of personage in Base-relieve of most admirable

Workmanship; in this

Chapel is

the Sepulchre of <EM>Jota,</EM> that renown'd Painter and

Architect, upon

whom

there are some excellent

Latin verses

there ingraven,

which I have lost,

but <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>mend

to you to take a Copie

thereof. In the Church of St. <EM>Spirito;</EM> there

is

an

Altar ha<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cost

above a Hundred Thousand Crowns,

which were

left by a <EM>Florentin</EM> Gentleman

for that effect. In the Church <EM>de Sancta

Cr<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ce,</EM>

(I h<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ve

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>orgot

whether i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

belongs

to the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> or

Ja<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>obi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>;)

<EM>Michael Ang<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>o

bona rota</EM> i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

interred,

105

and it is

said

at his own desire, that he might

lye

within the View of <EM>Jota</EM>'s

Towre,

which he did

so much admire in his lifetime; Upon his Tome there are three

most delicate Statues,

the one represents

Painting;

the second, Sculpture; the

third Architecture: in which three

Arts,

he was

so great a Master. St. <EM>Laurence</EM> Church

was

magnificently

built

by <EM>Cosmo de Medicis,</EM> whose

Scpulchre

is

to be seen

there. There is

that famous Chapel, which the Dukes

continually

Labour to Finish. It is

the most Glorious thing extant in the World, there

being

already bestowed

upon the Workman-ship thereof above eight

Millions

of Gold, and I beleeve

a considerable deal more

will not perfect it. It is

not very large, but built

round; it is

all Mosaik, both the Floore,

roofe

and sides;

and the least considerable Stones

that compose it, are Jasper, Porphir,

Alabaster, Lapis Lazuli

&amp;c. there are severall

nests

in the Wall about, where the statues

of the Dukes

are to stand as they lived

and succeeded

to the another. The

106

Great Altar is

not yet set up, because of peoples

being

still at work in the Chapel, nor

is

it yet altogether finished,

but yet there is

so much done,

that to look upon it, one should

hardly

think there were

any thing wanting.

It is

keept

in the Dukes

Wardrobe in the Old Palace, of which I

forgot

to speake

formerly,

and therefore tell You now

that it is

one part of the old Palace which You must not

faile

to see, there being

in it a vast Treasure of Silver and Gold Plate, with many

other Precious things.

The Altar is

keept

in a little Room by it self, I shall not under-take to

descrive

it particularly,

but only desire You to consider well every part of it, the

Richness of the Materials

and excellencie

of the Workemanship,

the <EM>Mosaicks,</EM>

and the <EM>Christall</EM>

Pillars,

and I believe You will easily

excuse my holding

by the general, and omitting

to speak of particulars:

I do truely

think that the beauties

and excellencies

of this Chapel and Altar, are so great and so many, that they

Deserve a Particular Book to make

them

known

to the world,

107

and it may be there is

some such work intended,

or alreadie

extant, which if it be I am

confident You will take care to have it.

</P>

<P>

I must give You notice in this Place, that You will doe well

to Treat with some of those men

that Work about the Chapel, or else with some of those

stone-cutters

in the Gallery for some small Peeces

of all the species of stones;

let them

be of such a Bigness as may easily

serve to know them

by. I make no doubt but You may get

them

at a Reasonable Rate. But I must

earnestly

intreat You to mind those two Species of

stones

which are found in Quarries

not farr

from <EM>Florence,</EM> whereof the one

Naturally

represents

Townes

and Landscapes,

the other is

some what Whiter,

and has

Trees

and Forrests

Represented

on it, by little Black Draughts;

I remember to have shown

you a small Peice

of each sort, but now I would have, two or three

larger

Peeces

of both the sorts,

of about a span-Length, and of the best

Marked,

for I intend to put them

in frames,

as a Cheif

ornament of my

108

Tradescants. I shall hold You compt for the price. 3. The

Place where the wild Beasts

are keept.

It is

a long square Peece

of ground Walled

about, and galleried

on the Top for Spectators;

under the galleries

are litle

cells

that open to the Place, in each of which there

is

keept

a severall

Wild Beast, such as <EM>Lyons, Tygers,

Leopards,

Woolfs,

Beares,</EM>

&amp;c. These have their keeper that

waits

upon them,

and Feeds

them,

and when the great Duke commands,

they are brought

out, one or more, as he Pleases,

and bated

with Dogs,

or otherwise set to fight with one another, Upon such

occasions

strangers

are Permitted

to see. 4. The Book-sellers;

of which there are prettie

store here and those well furnished

too. You cannot miss of a <EM>Casalpinus de Plantis</EM> or

two, for it was

Printed

in this Place. If You can get his appendix <EM>ad libros de

Plantis,</EM> You will oblidge

me to bring it with You; it was

Printed

by it self at <EM>Rome.</EM> You may

possibly

meet with other good Books,

for it is

ordinar

when Learned

men

die&#0183; for Book-Sellers

to buy

109

their Books.

I must likeways

put You in mind to buy a Printed

Paper for me, that was

Published

at <EM>Florence,</EM> called

<EM>Testis examinatus;</EM> it containes

two or three figures

of the <EM>Testicles</EM>

with a short Description thereof, in one single leaf.

</P>

<P>There is

one Dr. <EM>Kirton</EM> Dr. of <EM>Physick,</EM>

He is

a very civill

and obligeing

Gentleman; If he be yet alive he will be Your Interpreter: and

if You need not that, he will help You to expede the rest of

Your affairs;

in short, both his counsell

and his company are to be esteemed;

He is

an

<EM>English</EM> Man born, low in stature and

prettie

ancient.</P>

<P>You must not faill in this Place to take notice, of the

variety of Fruits,

&amp; Wines;

as the Red <EM>Florence</EM> Wine, which

is

counted

the best for ordinar

Drinking,

being

stomachical and without Sweetnes.

The White <EM>Florence</EM> Wine, which

is

Sweet; <EM>Verdea,</EM> which is

delicious small Sweet white Wine; <EM>Monte Pulciano,</EM> White

and Red, both very good Wines,

so called

from the Place they grow upon, and many more such.</P>

<P>

110

If You happen to be here in the

Summer time,

especially

when the Grapes

are Ripe, You will find in the Markets

great Varietie

of Fowles

and small Birds,

whereof I intreat You to take

notice, but especially

of those kinds,

that are not common with us, and try to get their

Skins,

which may be easily

done,

when the bird hath

not been

long Dead; the rump must be left at it for

preserving

of the Taile;

The Head, Wings

and Feet

must be likewise left, and

only tbe body taken

out, &amp; so the Skin filled

with Flax or Cotton. This I intreat You to remember to doe

wheresoever You shall happen to be in the Summer time, and if

any such occasion Present it self to You in Winter, not to

ommit

it.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Florence</EM> to <EM>Rome</EM> You have 140.

Miles;

there are severall

wayes

of Travelling,

<EM>viz.</EM> by Coach, by <EM>Procaccio</EM> or Messenger

with whom

you agree for so much; as is

usuall

in <EM>France:</EM> and by the <EM>Viturin,</EM> that

is,

by hyring

of Horse at a certain Rate, &amp;

Paying

for Your own entertainment at every part as you pass.

111

If you be acquainted

with the customes

of the Countrey,

and have Language enough to make Your self

understood,

this last way is

the best, because you will be sure to fare better, and cost

you no more, than you would otherwise Pay to the Messenger,

who will be sure to provide

the worst chear

for you, that he may make the better for himself: in short, it

is

best to be Master of your own Purse, and not live at the

discretion of Your Conductor. I have

forgot

hitherto to tell you that there

is

some Incommoditie

for Travellers

upon the Road, as to their Bedding,

their Cloaths

espiecially, the Sheets

being

for the most part very nasty, and it

is

but now and then that either money or fair

words

can procure a Pair of clean Sheets.

The best remedy I know is

not to put off ones

Cloaths,

and to wrap ones

self, especialy

the Head, in their Cloak, that the face and

Hands

may not touch any unclean thing; in short a

litle

Patience will do it, and you will be sure to be better

accomodated

in good Towns.

</P>

<P>

112

The places

You are to pass by, are Cheifly

these as follows.

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>FLORENCE.</H4>

<LI>S. Casciano 9 Miles</LI>

<LI>Le Tavernelle 8 Miles</LI>

<LI>Pogibonzo 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Staggia 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>Siena 9 Miles</LI>

<LI>Montarone 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Lucignano 3 Miles</LI>

<LI>Bonconvento 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Tornieri 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>S. Quirie 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>La Scala 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>Ricorso 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>La Paglia 5 Miles</LI>

<LI>Ponte Centino 9 Miles</LI>

<LI>Acquapendente 2 Miles</LI>

<LI>S. Lorenzo 3 Miles</LI>

<LI>Bolsena 4 Miles</LI>

<LI>Montefiascone 6 Miles</LI>

<LI>Viterbo 8 Miles</LI>

<LI>Ronciglione 10 Miles</LI>

<LI>Monterosi

8 Miles</LI>

<LI>Roma 20 Miles</LI>

</UL>

<P>

113

There are not many considerable

things

to be seen

upon this Road; <EM>Siena</EM> was

a republick

by itself, but was

reduced

by the Emperour

<EM>Charles</EM> the <EM>5th.</EM> and by his Son

<EM>Philip</EM> Gifted

to the Great Duke of <EM>Tuscany,</EM>

under whose Power it still Remains.

The Town is

of a good bigness, and commended

for it's Situation, and the purity of the <EM>Italian</EM>

Tongue. The <EM>Dome</EM> or great Church

is

a statly

Fabrick;

it is

Paved

with Marble, but especialy

the Quire, upon which is

most Curiously

Graven

the History of

<EM>Abraham</EM> Sacrificeing

his Son, and History of the <EM>Maccabees,</EM>

and for the better Preservation of

them

they are covered

with Matts.

There is

likewise an

entrie

from the Church to the Bibliotheck

of <EM>Aeneas Sylvius,</EM> who

was

born in this Town. He was

once Legat

from the <EM>Pope</EM> into <EM>Scotland,</EM> and

afterwards

Created

<EM>Pope</EM> himself, and took

the name of <EM>Pius Secundus.</EM> He

was

a Man of great Learning.

The late <EM>Pope Alexander</EM> VII.

was

Native of this Place, of the Family of <EM>Chigi;</EM> his

Statue is

to be seen

in the great Church. The greatest

Part of the

114

and the Towre

belonging

to it are of Black and White Marble without. In the Church of

St. <EM>Dominic,</EM> amongst other

Relicts,

is

preserved

the Head of St. <EM>Catharine</EM> of <EM>Siena.</EM> The

Tovvne

is

well watered

with many fine Fountains.

The great place is

made

with a kind of Descent Theatre ways,

so that from the middle of the Place You may see all that walk

in it. <EM>Montefiascone</EM> is

famous for a most Delicious Kind of <EM>Muscatello</EM> Wine,

which You must be sure to Tast.

The Messenger uses

to Dine without the Town, but you will be sure to fare better

and get better Wine within;

There goes

a storie

that a <EM>German</EM> killed

himself in this Place with Drinking

excessivly

of this <EM>Muscat.</EM> As you

goe

from thence to <EM>Viterbo</EM> you will find a kind of

<EM>Aspalathus,</EM> which I take to be <EM>Acacia altera

Angularae.</EM> It growes

as high as our Broom, and is

plentifull

enough, so that you will easily

discover it.

</P>

<P>

From <EM>Viterbo,</EM> all that distance to <EM>Rome</EM>

is

called

the <EM>Campania</EM> of <EM>Rome,</EM> in which it

is

thought most dangerous to sleep in

122

the Summer time, therefore if you fortune to travel it in

Summer, whither to <EM>Rome</EM> or from it (the same

is

under stood

of 40. Miles

distance round about <EM>Rome</EM>) you must be sure not to

sleep in the <EM>Campania,</EM>

which you may easily

avoid by Travelling

in the night. when you arrive at <EM>Rome</EM> you must give

up your name at the Port; your Countrey,

the Place from which <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ou

came

last, and the house you goe

to Lodge at: and from thence you must go <EM>a la dogano,</EM>

or to the Custom House, where your Cloakbag must be

Searched,

and from thence to your lodg<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ng

place, according

to the Billet given

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ou at the

Port, without which no House <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eeper

dare receave

a stranger; But they <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>re

things

of Course and effectuat

without any trouble. You will

doe well to Lodge in a Pension for the first week,

untill

you have made

some acquaintance, by means

whereof you may be fullie

informed

where to light upon a convenient <EM>Camera locanda:</EM>

There was

two <EM>French</EM> Pensions,

and one <EM>English</EM> in my time. The first of the

<EM>French</EM> was

<EM>Al monte d'oro.</EM> The second

was

<EM>nella strada del Populo</EM>

123

The English pension was

in the same <EM>strada del

Populo, alla villa di Londra:</EM> we

had

severall

Countrey

men

living

in the Town in my time, as particularly

<EM>signior Roberto Pendrick,</EM> a

worthie

old Gentleman, and most

obligeing

to his Countrey

men,

he was

my particular good friend; and I make no doubt but you will

find him

so, for I hear he is

still alive, and I wish he may be long so. He

lives

in a House of his own upon the <EM>Triuita di monte.</EM>

There is

an

other called

<EM>Signior don Gulielmo

Lesly,</EM> He is

Chaplain to Cardinal

<EM>Carlo Barberino</EM> and lives

<EM>nella Cancellaria.</EM>

I dare be confident to give you this man for one of the most

faithfull

Friends

in the World, and one in whose goodness, prudence, Kindness,

and good Conduct you may trust ten Thousand

Lives:

to be short you will find I am

not mistaken,

when I call him

<EM>deliciae humani

generis,</EM> for in all my lifetime I never

knew

another like him,

make it their whole work and study to find

opportunities

to oblige every Countrey-man

according

to his condition: The p<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>r

of

124

them,

with Food and Rayment

and whatsoever else they

may stand in need of, and all other

men

with continual offices

of civility. By his

means

you will get to see many of these

things

I shall recommend to you hereafter. If I Know of your

going

to <EM>Italy</EM> in time, I shall have a Letter there before

you. Your best convenience for Lodging

and Diet will be <EM>a Camera Locanda.</EM>

You may take it in that place of the town that

suits

best with your occasions,

you will pay for it by the month, less or more

according

to the goodness of the Chamber and furniture thereof. As for

your diet it will be drest

in the House, and you must tell at night what you

Intend to eat next day, that

they may provide it for you:

As for the prices

you cannot be

easily

Cheated,

because as to that, most things

are Regulated,

And in the quantitie

it is

not possible you should be overreached

because all things

are sold

by weight. There are severall

Kinds

of Bread used

in this City, but that which is

called

<EM>Papaline</EM> is

undoubtedly

the best. There are likewise many

sorts

of Wines,

125

some of them

<EM>Galliardi</EM> or strong, as <EM>Greco, Muscatello di

Saragosa,

Lagrima</EM> &amp;c. others are <EM>Legieri,</EM> or small,

and they are many; the best for common use

is

<EM>Albano,</EM> which You may drink pure: and it

is

remarkable that there are

but few places

in <EM>Italy</EM> where Water may be

Drunk

safely,

and because one may be mistaken

in the choise,

the best remedy is

to Drink none at all. There are great variety of

fruits

according

to the Seasons

of the year, I shal

only desire you to be cautious, and not to eat too much or too

often of any, but especialy,

of <EM>Melons,

Cucumbers,</EM>

and the <EM>Malanzane,</EM> or <EM>mala insana,</EM> which are

a Kind of <EM>Solanum Pomiferum.</EM> There are good store and

Many Kinds

of Fishes,

especialy

Sea Fish, whereof the best are,

<EM>Sols,

il Pisce Capone</EM> &amp;c. The <EM>Tunino</EM>

is

a great Fish as big as our <EM>Salmond,</EM> and Red like it,

but harder

and dryer

a great deale,

the bellie

of it is

verie

fatt

and they use to Salt and sell it in the

Taverns,

being

sliced

in small peeces

upon a Trencher; Fresh <EM>Sturgeon</EM>

is

very common; <EM>Lobsters</EM>

are much harder

and worse to disgest

126

than ours:

as for fleshes,

<EM>Bufalo</EM> is

only eaten

by the Poorer

sort of people; Beif which they call <EM>Vacina</EM>

is

good; <EM>Vitella campo reccia,</EM> or Hudron

is

good, but above all the <EM>Vitella mongana</EM> or

sucking

Veal. Lamb is

worth nothing, nor Mutton either, which they call

<EM>Castrato,</EM> and serves

only to make Broath

for Sick People;

Kids

are good. In the Winter-time there

is

is

abundance of <EM>Sangliers</EM> or wild

Boars,

as also <EM>Porcepics.</EM> The Snow in that season,

driving

them

from the Hills

to the Valleys,

where they are Killed

by the Hunters.

There is

likeways

great Variety of Fowl. There

is

none so common as Quailes,

at two seasons

of the year, that is,

the Spring when they come into <EM>Italy,</EM> and the latter

end of <EM>Autumn,</EM> at which time they are much

fatter

and better when they go from it. It

is

said

that they draw together to the Coast side, and there wait for

the rest of their number a whole

Moneth,

and then at last, their <EM>Caravan</EM>

being

complete, they flee away nearer

the Sunn

in a great cloud. The <EM>Pigione Sotto hanca</EM> are the

biggest

and

127

fattest,

and best for eating

in the world: they are good in all

seasons

of the year. About the time of Vintage there are great Variety

of small Birds,

all very fatt

&amp; good, and at easie

Rates,

amongst which the <EM>Ortolani,</EM> and <EM>Beccafiche</EM>

are most esteemed.

</P>

<P>

As for the things

to be seen

here, they are so many, and so considerable, that it would

require a large Volume to describe

them,

and there are abundance of such

Books

extant, to which I referr

you, and especially

to one in 80. called

<EM>L' Antichita di Roma di Andrea Fulvio:</EM> but you must

not fail to get an

<EM>Antiquario,</EM> who

for a certain Summ

of two or three Crowns

will show you all the particular

Antiquities

and considerable places

of the Town, and as for the fuller information of

them

your Book will serve you: I shall only hint at

somethings

worthie

to be taken

notice of; 1. The Court; that is,

the Pope, Cardinals,

Prelates,

Monsigniorie &amp;c. There are some great Holy

days,

when the Pope Celebrats Mass in person; it will be sit to

128

wait upon some of these occasions,

for then you will see the Grandeur of the Court and the

forme

of a Cavalcata, together with the

Popes

ordinary Guards.

2. The Churches.

3. The Palaces;

especially

those of the <EM>Vatican,</EM> together with the Bibliotheck

and Gardens

of <EM>Belvidere,</EM> in which amongst other

things

take particular notice of

the statue of <EM>Ly<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>aon</EM>

with the Serpents

wreathed

about him;

There is

an

other Garden also belonging

to the <EM>Vatican,</EM> in which there are many

exotick

Plants,

it was

planted

by the Popes

order, by <EM>Tobias

Aldinus</EM> and is

Keept

still in reasonable good order; amongst other

things

you will find the <EM>Cameripses,</EM> or

<EM>Camedactylus,</EM> of the bigness of a Low Tree and

carrying

Fruit; there is

likewise a <EM>Grotta</EM> or

water work, and very fine Fountains

of water, about which grows

plentifully

the <EM>Capillus veneris Major</EM> or <EM>Ramosus.</EM> and

<EM>Arum Aegyptium

Mathioli,

sive Colocasia,</EM> which is

a plant carying

no stalk, flowr

nor fruit in <EM>Italy</EM> (I know not what it

does

in its

native Soyle)

but only broad Leaves

very large and round.

</P>

<P>

129

The Palace of <EM>Farnese;</EM> and in it that Gallery whereof

the Painting

in <EM>Fresco</EM> by <EM>Aniball Caraccio</EM>

is

so famous, and the <EM>Tauro</EM> which

is

kept

in a little House a part, in the back court of the Palace. It

is

the noblest

piece of Art extant in <EM>Rome</EM>

altho

it be very antient,

as being

one of those named

by <EM>Pliny,</EM> to have been

in his time in <EM>Foro Trajani;</EM> yet it

is

not only intire,

but as beautifull

as if it had

never been

moved

out of the place it stands

in now.

</P>

<P>

The Palace of <EM>Principe Pamphilio;</EM> it

stands

in the <EM>Piazza Navona,</EM> where you may take notice of

that Glorious Fountain made

by Cavelier <EM>Bernini,</EM> whereupon the top of a little

artificial Rock, are placed,

four great delicate Marble Statues,

representing

the foure

great Rivers

of the World, and each of them

pouring

out of a Vale placed

under one Arme,

a great quantitie

of Water, and in the middle of the four there

stands

one of these <EM>Gulias</EM> graven

with <EM>Aegyptian

Hieroglyphicks,</EM>

brought

from <EM>A<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>gypt</EM>

by the Antient

<EM>Romans.</EM>

They use to

130

stop the way-goe

of the Water, sometimes

in the Summer, and lett

the Place overflow with Water, and then

People come toward the evening,

in their Coaches,

and drive softly

up and down the water to take the <EM>fresco,</EM> which

is

one of the greatest

<EM>Gusto</EM>'s in <EM>Rome.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Palazzo Borghese,</EM> Standing

near to the <EM>Ripetta. Palazza Palistrino;</EM> and in it the

library, where you may see two copies

of the <EM>Hortus Eystetensis,</EM> one

illuminated

and the other not; Mr. <EM>Lesty</EM> will command you a sight

of that when you please, for it

belongs

to <EM>Cardinall

Francisco Barberino.</EM></P>

<P>

The Popes

Palace of <EM>Monte Cavallo,</EM> and the

Gardens

thereof. 4. The <EM>Villa</EM>'s: as first that of

<EM>Borghese,</EM> which is

without the

walls:

there is

a particular Book to be sold

by the House keeper, that sufficiently

descrives

it and all the beauties

of it, to which I Refer you. <EM>2ly.</EM> the <EM>villa</EM>

or <EM>Palazzo medici,</EM> belonging

to the great Duke of <EM>Tuscany.</EM> It

stands

upon the <EM>monte Trinita,</EM> the Hall

is

adorned

with a great many Pillars

standing

131

about the Walls,

of most delicat Marbles,

and the Originalls

of a great many <EM>Illustres</EM> and

<EM>virtuosi.</EM>

In one of the Chambers

there is

a most beautifull

statue of <EM>Venus,</EM> of <EM>Grecian</EM>

Antiquitie.

In the Garden there is

a Noble statue of <EM>Cleopatra,</EM> the

Ruins

whereof were

repared

by <EM>Michaell

Angelo bona rota,</EM> and many other

statues

<EM>Base Releiv</EM>'s and <EM>Vases,</EM>

which for Brevities

sake I must omit, and refer you to the particular

Books

that treat of those things,

But most of all to your own diligence in

viewing

them

and keeping

a punctuall

Register of all that you see, and so I shall only name some of

the <EM>Villa</EM>'s that remain, and are most considerable.

As the <EM>Villa Montalto;</EM> The <EM>Villa

Ludovisi,</EM> where amongst

other Admirable things

the statue of the dying

<EM>Gladiator</EM>

is

excellent. The <EM>Villa Farnesi;</EM>

The <EM>Villa Pamphilio,</EM> which

is

a pretie

way without the walls,

and the rest which I leave to your sight.

</P>

<P>

<EM>5ly.</EM> The Castle of <EM>St. Angelo,</EM> which

formerly

was

the Burial Place of <EM>Hadrian</EM>

132

the Emperor. 6. The Hospitalls;

Particularly

that of St. <EM>Spirito,</EM> which

is

a most magnificent Structure, and well

appointed

in all things.

They will show you amongst other remarkable

things,

the Place where the Children

of such a Bigness are

permitted

to be put in, without any further

inquirie

made

after them,

or who brought

them.

By this means

the Life of many a Child hath

ben

saved,

which otherways would have been

taken

away to prevent the disgrace

of the Parents.

They are no sooner

put in, but Nurses

are got

for them:

If they be Boyes,

when they come to a convenient Age they are put to

Trades,

according

ro their several Inclinations

and Capacities.

But if they be Girles,

then when they come to the Years

of discretion, if they incline not to a

Religious Life, every one of

them

is

provided

with so much Portion to Marry her with, out of the common

revenue of the House; And then upon a certain Day

appointed

for that purpose; all <EM>Zitelle</EM> or

maids

come in Procession, one after another,

133

with their Faces

Vail'd, and the Men

that come there upon such Days,

of purpose to choose a Wife,

(for all of them

have a like Portions)

pitch upon such as please them

best, and present them

a Nosegay, after which, she

is

sequestred

from the rest, &amp; the Marriage Solemniz'd, after the Man

has

given

Information of himself and

sufficient Caution that he shall provide a Lively-hood for

her. There is

a very fine little Garden that belongs

to the Hospital lying

just upon the <EM>Tyber.</EM>

It uses

to be well furnished

with Plants,

and I have seen

the <EM>Dictamnus Creticus</EM> in

flowre

there. <EM>7ly.</EM> The Convents;

as particularly

the <EM>French Minims</EM>

upon the <EM>Monte Trinita.</EM> In the upper

Gallerie

of their Cloyster

there is

a Dyall,

where the Sun beams,

entering

by a small round hole, Point the

Hours.

It was

made

by <EM>Marsennus</EM> that famous Mathematician, a Father of

their Countrie

and Order. They have likeways,

in a particular part of their Garden some rare

Plants,

as <EM>Malus punica flore

amplissimo pleno &amp; Variegato.</EM>

</P>

<P>

134

The <EM>Minerva;</EM> which was

anciently

the Temple of <EM>Minerva,</EM> and now

is

the Chief Convent of the <EM>Domini<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ans</EM>

in <EM>Rome.</EM> In my time there

was

a <EM>French</EM> Father there called

<EM>Padre Barilieri</EM> Secretarie

to the General for his Nation; He

was

a great Virtuoso, and exceedingly

well versed

in the whole Historie

of Nature; He had

a very Curious Collection of many

Naturall

Things,

and was

about to have Published

a Large Book in <EM>Folio,</EM> wherein he

had

designed

a Natural History, with a

great many cutts,

which he showed

me. If the Book be Published,

I should be very glad to see it; if he be alive, it will be

worth your while to procure

his acquaintance. He hath

also a Garden well stored

with Plants

at St. <EM>Xisto.</EM>

</P>

<P>The <EM>Roman</EM> Colledge;

where there is

a famous shop and Laboratorie

for <EM>Pharmacie,</EM>

as also a Garden.</P>

<P>

<EM>8ly.</EM> The Capitol; the middle of the Place before it,

is

the Statue of the Emperour

<EM>Marcus Aurelius,</EM> a Horse-back in Brass; It

was

brought

thither from the

135

Place before St. <EM>John de Lateran,</EM> and

is

thought one of the best Modells

in the World. At the Top of the

Staires,

as you enter into the place are two

Horses,

one on every side held

by a Slave in Marble. They were

brought

thither from the Ruines

of <EM>Pompey</EM>'s Theatre. There

is

also in the same Place two Trophies

of <EM>Marius;</EM> there is

also <EM>Columna milliaris,</EM> with a Brass-ball on the Top

of it; there used

to be such a one at every miles

end, upon the common Roads;

&amp; from thence came

their Fashion of counting

the miles

<EM>per Lapides,</EM> as <EM>primo ab urbe Lapide</EM>

was

a mile from the Town &amp;c. The

Capitol, as it now

is,

consists

of three Palaces

all of Excellent <EM>Architecture,</EM> and

beautified,

both within and without with Painting,

Statues,

and other Monuments

of antiquitie;

the particular Relation whereof I

referr

to the Books

that are written

thereof, and particularly

to one called

<EM>Roma antica &amp; Moderna,</EM>

&amp; to the particular demonstration of the

<EM>Antiquario,</EM> for I find it will be

utterly

impossible to discourse of every

136

particular, unless I should resolve to compile a Volumn.

</P>

<P>

The rest of the Monuments,

and rests

or rather ruins

of Antiquitie,

I shall pass over, and only name a few of

them;

as for example, first, the Walls

of the City, which were

built

by <EM>Bellisarius</EM> Captain of the

Guards

to <EM>Justinian</EM> the Emperour.

The breaches

have been

repaired

by severall

<EM>Popes.</EM>

The Ports

for the most part are the same they

were

anciently,

only the <EM>Porta del populo</EM>

was

made

a great deal more stately, at the first

Entrie

of <EM>Chris<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ina</EM>

Queen of <EM>Sweden</EM> into <EM>Rome.</EM> There

is

a long courten of the Wall betwixt

<EM>Porta del populo</EM> and <EM>Villa Borghese,</EM> under

which it seems

the Ground has

misgiven,

so that the Wall bendeth, &amp;

is

therefore called

<EM>Muro torto.</EM> Near to this place also,

is

the Burial Place <EM>delle Cortegiane,</EM> there

being

no Christian Burial or Holy Ground

allowed

to such persones.

There is

good Herbarizing

about the walls,

especially

on the out-side, and particularly

you will find a Plant there which

is

not common else where, at

137

least that I have observed,

viz. <EM>Sature<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a

Spicata sive Thymbra S. Juliani<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Satureia vera Lobelii.</EM>

Upon the Wall of the City, close by the Port of St.

<EM>Paul<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

in <EM>via ostiensi;</EM> there

is

yet extant a Pyramid

built

of Marble, which was

the Burial Place of <EM>C. Ces<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ius

Septemvir Epulonum.

Secondly.</EM>

The old Temples;

whereof there are so many that it would be tedious to describe

them

all, I shall only name some, <EM>viz.</EM> The

<EM>Pantheon</EM> now called

<EM>Madonna della rotunda;</EM> It

was

built

by <EM>Marcus Agrippa,</EM> Son-in law to

<EM>Augustus Caesar,</EM> in

Honour of all the Gods.

It had

the Fortune to escape almost totaly,

the ruine,

and fury, which the Goths

&amp; Vandals

brought

upon the <EM>Roman Empire</EM>

and magnificence thereof. I admire the

Roofe

of it, being

so large and so flat without any Pillar, to support it, and

altho'

it be a Vault, it hath

no nevilstone to bind it in

the middle, but in place thereof a round hole so wide that it

lights

the whole Roome

abundantly,

nor is

there any other Window in the Fabrick.

The next thing I admire in it is

138

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>he

Doore-Cheeks

and couple which is

all of one Peece

of white Marble. The Door opens

in two leaves,

very wide &amp; very high, they

were

covered

with <EM>Corinthian</EM>

Brass, as was

also the whole Roofe,

until the time of <EM>Vrban</EM>

VIII. who took

it off, and covered

it with Lead as it now is,

and made

thereof the great Altar of St. <EM>Peters,</EM>

and some peeces

of Ordinance, that are keept

in the Castel

St. <EM>Angelo,</EM> as will testifie

a particular inscription at

the side of the pantheon

Doore,

made

by the <EM>Popes</EM>

command. Upon this occasion

was

that <EM>Pasquinad; Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecere

Barberini.</EM> It has

a most stately <EM>Portico</EM> before the Gate, of a great

many large tall Pillars

of Egyptian black and white speckled

Marble; the descent into the <EM>Portico</EM> from the Street

is

of ten or twelve steps,

but it is

said,

before the ruine

of the City, that there was

as great an

ascent to it; whence it may be gathered,

what an

universal &amp; great devastation of

buildings

must there have been

to fill up so great a deepth.

And indeed it is

observed,

139

that when they have any occasion to dig, it

is

long before they come, in most places,

to the <EM>terra Virgine,</EM>

that is,

which hath

not formerly

been

broke

upon: and when they are

digging

into old ruins,

for <EM>Anticails</EM> (as they are

continually

doing

in severall

places)

they leave off when they come to the <EM>Terra

Virgine.</EM>

Before the <EM>Portico</EM> there

is

a large coffine,

with it's cover and supporters

of Porphyre which they commonly

call <EM>Agrippa</EM>'s <EM>Tombe.</EM>

</P>

<P>Near to the entrie

of the Camp of <EM>Vacino,</EM>

at the bottom of the back stairs

that lead to the Capitol, there

is

a Chapel under ground, which was

formerly

the Prison of St. <EM>Peter</EM> and St. <EM>Paul,</EM> when

they suffered

for the Holy name of <EM>JESVS.</EM>

It was

then called

<EM>Tullianum,</EM> according

to that of <EM>Cicero; est locus in carcere quod Tullianum

appellatur.</EM> The Temple of <EM>Saturn</EM>

is

hard by, which in ancient times

was

the <EM>Aerarium publicum,</EM> in which the

Publick

Treasury was

keept.</P>

<P>

Thirdly,

the <EM>Amphitheatres;</EM>

most part of which are Ruined,

especially

that

140

which was

built

by <EM>Titus,</EM> now <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>alled

the <EM>Coliseo;</EM> by the part thereof that

is

standing

you may abundantly

Judge of the Magnificence of the whole, when it

was

extant. There is

good Herborizing within it, and there

is

one <EM>Dominicus Pa<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>arolus</EM>

that hath

Writen

<EM>Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium;</EM> with the rest

of his works

in <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>0.

<EM>Romae, apud <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ranciscum

Monetam</EM> 1652. to which I refer You.

</P>

<P>Fourthly,

the <EM>Aqueducts;</EM>

of which the most part are ancient: when they come near to the

City, they are convey'd under ground to several

Fountains

in the City, and some of them

so deep, that it is

Prodigious by what art they could have Peirc't so deep, as for

example, the <EM>Aqua Virgine,</EM>

which is

the sweetest

and best for use in all <EM>Rome,</EM>

is

conducted

so deep thro' the <EM>Monte Trinita,</EM> That in the <EM>French

Minims</EM>

Garden there is

a descent of six or seven score

steps

to come at it. Amongst all the Fountains

in <EM>Rome</EM> the most beautifull

are in the <EM>Piazza

Navona,</EM> in the <EM>Piazza</EM> St. <EM>Pietro,</EM> the

<EM>Tre Fountane, &amp;c,</EM></P>

<P>

141

<EM>5ly</EM> The <EM>Thermae,</EM> or

Baths;

as the <EM>Thermae Diocletianae</EM>

built

by the Emperour

<EM>Diocletian.</EM> It is

said

that ten thousand

Christians

were

imployed

about this work, and all cruely

Massacred

when they had

finished

it. It is

now a Monastery of

<EM>Carthusians,</EM>

in whose common Garden I remember to have

seen

the Myrtus <EM>Buxifoliis.</EM> The

ruins

of <EM>Thermae Antonini Caracallae;</EM> they are

situated

<EM>ad Radicem Collis Aventinae.</EM> I have

seen

amongst these Ruins

that kynd

of Capillary, which

is

called

<EM>Hemionitis,</EM> and no where else that I Remember of.

</P>

<P>

Sixthly

the two Columns

of <EM>Antoninus,</EM> and <EM>Tra<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>an</EM>

Emperours;

The Statue of St. <EM>Peter</EM>

stands

upon the Top of one, and that of St. <EM>Paul</EM> upon the

other: <EM>Trajan</EM> was

so well beloved

of the People that to make a

place, which in honour of

him

they called

<EM>forum Trajani,</EM> in the midle

of which this Column stands,

they levelled

a great Hill, of the precise hight of the Column it self. Both

the Columns

are of white Marble, and all the out side

Historified

in base relieue,

142

in a spirall

line beginning

at the bottom and ending

at the top. That of <EM>Trajan</EM>

hath

the whole storie

of the <EM>Dacian</EM> War. There

is

a great Book in <EM>Folio</EM> of this

Column, wherein all the

figures

are cutt

in Brass, and the Large description thereof

added.

I have forgot

the Authors

name, but I believe You will find the Book <EM>Al insegna di

Parigi alla pace</EM> from <EM>Jacomo

Rossi.</EM> where you will likewise find all other

sorts

of Prints

and T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lledouces.

The Columne

of <EM>Antoni<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>us&#0183;</EM>

is

160 foot High and that of <EM>Trajan</EM> 128.

Altho'

they apear

to be but smal

yet each of them

hath

a Stair-Case within, that leads

to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable, as

that which stands

before St. <EM>Maria Majore,</EM> which

was

one of the Pillars

of the <EM>Templum Pacis,</EM> brought

hither by <EM>Paulus</EM> V. who

placed

a Brasen

Statue of the Blessed

Virgine

upon the Top thereof. There is

likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a

Crucifix on the Top of it, erected

in memorie

of the absolution given

to <EM>Henry</EM> the IV. King of <EM>France;</EM> In the

143

Capitoll

likewise there are two <EM>viz.</EM> the <EM>Columna

milliaris,</EM> of which already, and the <EM>Columna

Rostrata,</EM> which you will see when you view the fine

things

within that part of the Capitoll

whi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>h

stands

next to the River, where the Hill

is

most steep and was

anciently

called

<EM>Tarpeia Rupes.</EM>

</P>

<P>Seventhly,

the Triumphall

Arches;

as particularly

that of <EM>Septimius Severus;</EM> That of <EM>Titus;</EM> and

that of <EM>Constantine</EM> &amp;c.</P>

<P>Eighthly,

the Bridges

upon the River. Ninthly,

the <EM>Obelisks;</EM>

most part whereof are

graven

with <EM>Aegyptian

Hieroglyphicks.</EM>

The best of them

is

erected

in the middle of the place before St.

<EM>Peters,</EM>

upon the back of four Brazen Lyons, and a large Pedestal of

Marble. The next best is

at the <EM>Porta dell Populo.</EM></P>

<P>

Tenthly,

the <EM>Septem Colles</EM> or <EM>Montes;</EM> upon which

<EM>Rome</EM> is

said

to be built

<EM>viz. Mons Capitolinus, Mons Palatinus, Mons Aventinus,

Mons Celius, Mons Esquiline<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s.</EM>

(where the House of <EM>Virgil</EM>

was

and the Garden of <EM>Mecoenas,) Mons

Viminalis</EM>

144

and <EM>Mons Quirinalis,</EM> called

now <EM>Monte Cavallo</EM> where the

Popes

Palace is.

</P>

<P>Eleventhly,

some other Hills:

as the <EM>Janicular,</EM>

which is

a Chain of Hills

without the

Walls

in the <EM>Trans<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>evere.</EM>

And the <EM>Mons Testaceus,</EM> which

is

nothing but a heap of broken

earthen Pots

and bricks;

for in ancient times

these were

so much in use; and the <EM>Figuli</EM> or

Tradesmen

that made

them,

so numerous, that there was

a necessity of appointing

them

a particular place, and that by

publick

edict, for throwing

the Ru<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>bish

of their Furnaces

and the pot sheards

that broke

in the Baking

into, least otherwise if it had

been

permitted

to throw them

into the River, it might have occasioned

an

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>nundation

of the City. In process of time it

grew

to the bignes

of the third part of a Mile in Compass, and a Hundred &amp;

Sixtie

foot in hight. This Hill is

within the Walls

not far from the side of the River, as also <EM>Mons

Vaticanus</EM> in <EM>Trans<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>evere,</EM>

so called

<EM>a Vaticiniis</EM> which used

to be made

there: The Palace of the <EM>Vatican</EM>

stands

upon it.</P>

<P>

145

Twelthly, <EM>Roma subterranea;</EM>

commonly

called

the <EM>Catacombs,</EM>

whereof <EM>Bosio</EM> hath

writen

a large Volumn in <EM>Folio.</EM> There are two of

them,

both without the Walls.

One of them

is

at St. <EM>Sebastion</EM>'s Church. They are

<EM>Caverns</EM>

digg'd under ground in the forme

of a Town, that is,

larger

and lesser streets

crossing

one another, in some place lower so that You must be

forced

to stoop, but in others higher

than a Mans

hight, and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the

other, as thick as they can stand one by another, are

holes

or nests

wherein

were

placed

the bodies

of the Dead, one by one, upright upon their

feet,

and so the nests

Plastered

over. The Bodies

and reliques

of many Saints

and Martyrs

have been

found here, and were

known

to be such by the Cross found upon their

Sepulchers,

with this Inscription <EM>Pro CHRISTO.</EM> You must take good

lights

and a good guide to conduct You, for some have

mistaken

their Way and never found an

outgate. The Second, I need not describe it.

</P>

<P>

146

There are severall

things

about <EM>Rome</EM> worthie

the taking

notice of, as 1. <EM>Ponte mola</EM> a Bridge

standing

upon the <EM>Tevere;</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Anio,</EM> some two miles

from the Town, before it joynes

with the <EM>Tyber.</EM>

You go to it by the Port <EM>del Populo.</EM> It

is

considerable for it's Antiquity. It

was

at this Bridge that <EM>Constantine</EM> the great

vanquished

<EM>Maxentius</EM> the Tyrant: There

having

appeared

to him

before the Battle, in the Firmament, a red Cross with these

words

<EM>in hoc Signo vinces.</EM> the story

is

Painted

in <EM>fresco</EM> in the Palace of the <EM>vatican</EM> by a

great Master, where You may see it and You will

seldome

miss Painters

in the Roome

a Copying

of it. 2. The City of <EM>Tivali,</EM> in Latin

<EM>Tibur;</EM> by the way You will pass a little River, The

Sulphureous and noysome

smell whereof You will perceive at a

Miles

distance; it is

of a whitish Colour as if Meall

were

mingled

with it; there is

a white slymie Sulphureous substance

adhering

to the sydes

and bottom of it, which is

soft whilest

it is

under Water, but being

once dryed

becomes

very hard,

147

they use to make counterfeit comfits,

<EM>&amp;</EM> which they call comfits

of <EM>Tivoli</EM> and use to Cheat People with

them

for sports

sake. The River runs

into the <EM>Tiverone</EM> and spoils

the Water thereof, and in my Opinion,

does

much harme

the Water of the <EM>Tyber</EM>

it self, because the <EM>Tiverone</EM>

joyns

with it before it come at the City of <EM>Rome.</EM> The Town

is

verie

ancient, having

several marks

of great Antiquity, as

<EM>Sybilla</EM>'s Temple, <EM>&amp;c.</EM> close by the Town

the River <EM>Teveron<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

falling

from a great hight over a Rock makes

that famous <EM>Cascata</EM> so much

talked

of. It makes

a horrid noise and continues

frothy and

working

for a good way below the fall, and

hath

made

a Million of meanders

and strange figures

in the Rock where it falls.

A little below the fall there is

a Bridge over it of a considerable hight above the Water,

where if You stand a while you will perceive a dew able to wet

you, which arises

from the fall of the Water after the River

is

fallen.

Several parts

of it are conveyed

by aqueducts

into the Town for

severall

uses;

as namely

148

one part for the Brass works,

where You may observe, that the Waeer

blowes

the fire, not by moving

the Bellowes

(which is

common) but by affording

the Wind; an

other part of it is

carried

to the <EM>Villa d' Este</EM> where there

is

a curious Palace and most curious

Gardens

with all sorts

of Ingenious Water Works

and other ornaments,

as statues

<EM>&amp;c,</EM> belonging

to Gardens.

Amongst other things

there are several Artificial Birds,

that sing their natural Notes

by the help of the Water. There

is

an

Organ that plays

sweetly,

moved

only by the Water, which also furnisheth

it Wind. The <EM>Girandola</EM>

is

considerable, where the

water rises

in a gross Body very High, and the

ayr

being

Artificially

mixed

therewith, makes

a noice

that exactly

imitats

Thunder. <EM>Tivoli</EM> is

some eighteen or twentie

Miles

distant from <EM>Rome</EM> You may

easily

go from <EM>Rome</EM> and see all

things

considerable there, &amp; returne

the same day to <EM>Rome,</EM> unless You please rather to

goe

to <EM>Frescati,</EM> which is

a most delicious litle

Toun

about twelve Miles

distant from <EM>Rome,</EM> standing

upon the side of a Hill, from whence

149

in clear weather You may easily

discover <EM>Rome.</EM> The

Place is

beautifi'd with many delicat <EM>Villa</EM>'s about it,

amongst which the most considerable are, first, the

<EM>Belvidere</EM> belonging

now to the <EM>Principe Pamphilio,</EM> the water

works

whereof are esteemed

the best in <EM>Italy:</EM> There

is

a Centaur that

Winds

a Horne

by the help of the Water, with that Loudness, that it can be

heard

at six or seven Miles

distance. There

is

a low Room which they call the <EM>Apollo,</EM> at the end of

which <EM>Apollo</EM> sits

upon the Top of an

artificial <EM>Parnassus.</EM> with the nine

Muses

about him,

he with his Harp, and they with their

severall

Instruments

of Musick,

which play by the help of the Water, which

is

convoyed

under ground and is

not seen

within the Room. About the

middle of the Room there is

a little hole, out of which the Wind

(occasioned

by the motion of the Water underneath)

comeing

furth, hath

so much strength as to support a wooden Ball, of the bigness

of a Tennes

ball, at half a ell's distance and more from the floor,

without ever letting

it fall

150

to the ground. <EM>2ly.</EM> At half a

miles

distance from

<EM>Frescati</EM> are the Ruins

of <EM>Cicero</EM>'s

<EM>Tusculanum,</EM> and <EM>Lucullo</EM>'s country House; as

also a curious <EM>villa</EM> called

<EM>monte Dragone,</EM> where the House

is

well adorned

with Paintings,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> and the Gardens

with water works.

</P>

<P><EM>3ly</EM> If You desire not to

Returne

to <EM>Rome</EM> first, You may

goe

directly

from hence to <EM>Castello gondolfo,</EM> which

is

about <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ive

miles

distant from <EM>Frescati,</EM> and fourteen from <EM>Rome.</EM>

It is

a most delicious

Countrey

House of the Popes,

To which he uses

to retire some Moneths

in the Summer, for the good Air's sake, it hes the Prospect of a

most delicat lake, encompased with

Hills,

that are all shadowed

with Trees,

where amongst other pleasures

you will not want that of Herbarizing.</P>

<P>

Being

returned

to <EM>Rome</EM> you may make another little Journey with your

convenience to

<EM>Ostia,</EM> which is

some twelve miles

distant from <EM>Rome</EM> doun

the River <EM>Tyber,</EM>

it was

of old the great Harbour for all the

Ships

and Gallies

that belonged

151

City and Empyre,

cutt

out as it seems

by Art, but now thro' long neglect

filled

up and useless. Having

seen

all and dyned,

you may returne

before night to <EM>Rome;</EM> it will be fit you be at the

pains

to make another Journey to <EM>Caprarolla,</EM> one of the

noblest

Palaces

in <EM>Italy,</EM> built

by the famous Architect <EM>Vignoli,</EM>

by order of Cardinal <EM>Alexander Farnese.</EM> It

belonges

to the Duke of <EM>Parma.</EM> It

is

distant from <EM>Rome</EM> Miles

It is

in <EM>figure, pentagone,</EM> having

five very High and equal faces,

with a Court perfectly

round in the middle, as likewise are the

Galleries

and Corredor's about it. Morover

there is

almost as much lodging

below ground as above. The Hangings,

Statues,

Pictures,

as also the Gardens,

Fountains,

and other embellishments,

doe well sute

the magnificence of the Palace.

</P>

<P>

Having

seen

<EM>Rome</EM> and the Places

about it. It will be fit to make

the Voyage of <EM>Naples.</EM> The

Months

of <EM>April</EM> and <EM>October</EM>

are most convenient for this Journey,

the heat being

too great in Summer,

152

and the Snow and Raine

troublesome in Winter.

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Rome to Naples.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Miles.</LI>

<EM>Marin<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

</EM>

<LI>12</LI>

<EM>Velitre, </EM>

<LI>08.</LI>

<EM>Sezza </EM>

<LI>15</LI>

<EM>Biperno,</EM>

<LI> 04</LI>

<EM>Terrazina,</EM>

<LI> 10.</LI>

<EM>Portella,</EM>

<LI> 03.</LI>

<EM>Fondi,</EM>

<LI> 05.</LI>

<EM>Itri,

</EM>

<LI>05.</LI>

<EM>Mola.</EM>

<LI> 04.</LI>

<EM>Tragetto, </EM>

<LI>10.</LI>

</UL>

<UL>

<BR><H4>Pass the River Garrigliano.</H4>

<EM>Sessa,</EM>

<LI> 07.</LI>

<EM>Carionole,</EM>

<LI> 04.</LI>

<EM>Capua,</EM>

<LI> 12.</LI>

<EM>Auersa,</EM>

<LI> 07.</LI>

<EM>Naples </EM>

<LI>08.</LI>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>114.</LI>

</UL>

<P>

153

As You go out at the Port St. <EM>Gioua<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ni,</EM>

all along the <EM>Campania</EM> on every side of the High-way,

You will meet with many Ruins

of Ancient Burial-Places

for several Miles

from the City.

</P>

<P><EM>Velitre;</EM> is

an

Ancient City of the <EM>Volsci,</EM> much

famed

also for the Parents

of <EM>Octavius Augustus,</EM> who

were

Originaly

of this Place. Upon the Way from <EM>Veletri</EM> to

<EM>Sezza,</EM> upon the Hill-side

under <EM>Sarninetta,</EM> there

are some Ancient Ruins

supposed

to be the <EM>Tres Taberna<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,</EM>

of which St. <EM>Luke</EM> speaks

in the 28. Chapter of <EM>the Acts

of the Apostles.</EM></P>

<P><EM>Sezza,</EM> formerly

<EM>Setia;</EM> was

much commended

for its

Wine, whence that of <EM>Juvenal.</EM></P>

<BR>---Tunc illa time cum pocula sume&#0183; Gemmata &amp; lato

Setinum ardebit in auro.<BR>

<P>

<EM>Piperno;</EM> in Latin <EM>Privernum;</EM> and the

Inhabitants

<EM>Privernati;</EM> near to this

154

Place, <EM>Iris Florentina,</EM>

grows

abundantly.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Terracina;</EM> was

Anciently

called

<EM>Auxur,</EM> in the Language

of the <EM>Volsci,</EM> of whom

this was

the <EM>Metropolis. Strabo</EM>

sayeth

that it was

called

<EM>Trachina, quasi Aspera</EM> from the Rockiness of the Hill

upon which it

is

Placed;

altho'

the Town be Ancient, it is

not very considerable, it is

the last Place of the Ecclesiastick

Estate

towards

<EM>Naples;</EM> Passengers

use to Dine here at a pittiful

<EM>Inn</EM> without the Town, where there

is

no manner of Furniture, but VVood

to make Fire: it not being

secure for any Body to live in it, because of the

Turks

that often Land here, and take what they can meet with.

VVhen

the People that keep the House see any

Strangers

Arrive, instantly

they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town. The Sea

comes

very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town

stands,

and on that side which is

towards

<EM>Naples,</EM> the Rock

is

precipitious, and betwixt it and the Sea,

leaves

but a very narrow and strait

Passage, which one Man

155

may Guarde

against a Hundred. <EM>Fondi</EM>

is

the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of

<EM>Naples;</EM> here you must give notice to the

Officers

appointed

for that purpose of your intended

Journey for <EM>Naples,</EM> and cause

registrat

your Name, together with the marks

of your Horse, that he may be the better

known

when you return, to be the same that you

brought

along with you from <EM>Rome,</EM> or otherways you will not

miss to be challenged

upon your return, and stopt,

untill

you can produce a Certificat

that he is

the very same you brought

into the Kingdom with you. There

being

a General Prohibition, the

observance whereof

is

Strictly

lookt

to, against carrieing

Horses

or Mares

out of the Kingdom, into any foreign part, least the

breede

of them,

which is

esteemed

amongst the best in <EM>Europe,</EM> should become

common to other

Nations.

Notwithstanding of

this severity, sometimes

with credit, and

sometimes

with a little Money, a Man may obtain permission for the

156

Transporting

of one or more, either Horses

or Mares.

</P>

<P><EM>Mola,</EM> is

one of the most pleasant places

in rhe World; being

close upon the Sea side, and but a little way from

<EM>Gaieta,</EM> to which you may go either by Sea or Land. It

is

likeways

hard by the ruins

of the Ancient City <EM>Formiae,</EM> where <EM>Cicero</EM>

had

his <EM>Villa Formiana.</EM> The place

abounds

with many plants,

and great Varietie

of the choisest

Fruits;

especially

the Agrumi, such as Citrons,

Oranges,

Limons &amp;c, of all sorts.</P>

<P>

If ye please to go to <EM>Gaieta,</EM> it

is

worth the while: It stands

at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that

runs

out into the Sea, from the main-Land about three

miles,

and by that means

becomes

peninsule, and formeth

on the side towards

<EM>Rome,</EM> betwixt it and <EM>Terracina,</EM> that

<EM>Sinus Gaitanus,</EM> about

twelve miles

in length. The Town is

pleasantly

Situated

and strongly.

There is

a great Rock hard by, which is

rent from Top to Bottom, which they say,

happened

when the Saviour of the

157

World Suffered

upon the Cross. There is

excellent Herbarizing

all the way betwixt it and

<EM>Mola.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>Trajetto</EM> is

a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of

<EM>Minturnae</EM> stood,

where there is

yet to be seen

an

Amphitheatre almost intire,

and the remains

of a great Aqueduct: It was

amongst the

Marishes

near to <EM>Minturnae,</EM>

that <EM>C. Marius</EM> did

hide himself, when he fled

from his Enemies;

whence that of <EM>Juvenal,</EM>

<BR>

<BR>Exilium &amp; carcer Minturnarum{que} Paludes,

<BR>Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine

Panis.

<BR>

</P>

<P>You must pass at this place the

River <EM>Garigliano,</EM>

called

<EM>Li<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>is</EM>

Anciently.</P>

<P>

<EM>Capua,</EM> is

a new City standing

upon the side of the River <EM>Vulturnus,</EM> and some two

miles

from it, the Ruins

of the Old famous <EM>Capua</EM> which in the Old

<EM>Romans</EM>

Time, was

esteemed

one of the most delicious Places

in the VVorld.

There are yet Vestiges of the Gates

of the City, of a Theatre, of a great many sumptuous

Temples,

Cisternes

under gronnd, and a great many

other

158

things;

that evidently

show it to have been

a magnificent City. The Country

from <EM>Vulturnus</EM> to <EM>Naples,</EM>

is

called

the <EM>Campania Felice,</EM> and

is

indeed the fertilest

soyle

and bautifullest Country that

my Eyes

ever beheld.

</P>

<P><EM>Aversa</EM> is

a new City, extructed

out of the Ruins

of <EM>Atella,</EM> It is

distant 8 Miles

from <EM>Naples,</EM> and famed

for a kind of Wine called

<EM>Asprin<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>.</EM></P>

<P>

That way which leades

from <EM>Rome</EM> to <EM>Naples,</EM>

was

Anciently

called

<EM>Via Appia,</EM> from <EM>Appius Claudius</EM> the Censor,

who caused

Pave this way from <EM>Rome,</EM> just to <EM>Capua.</EM> It

begins

at the Port now called

St. <EM>Sebastian,</EM> but Anciently

<EM>Porta Capena,</EM> from the <EM>Capenati</EM> a

people of <EM>Latium,</EM> to

which that way did

lead. The <EM>Via Appia</EM> is

of that breadth that one <EM>Chariot</EM> may

easily

pass another. The Emperour

<EM>Trajan</EM> did

renew it, and continue the Pavement even to

<EM>Brindici,</EM>

drying

the marishes,

plaining

the Hills,

and filling

up the Valleyes.

By this way Anciently

did

pass the greatest

part of the Triumphs;

whence it

159

was

called

<EM>Regina viarum:</EM> whence that of <EM>Papinius;</EM>

</P>

<P>Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum.</P>

<P>

Altho'

this way be Ruined

in many places,

yet it is

wonderfull

to see, in how great perfection a great deal of it

continues.

Without doubt it has

been

a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length, and

Breadth so well paved,

with Quadrangular Stones,

that even to this Day (altho'

it be of common &amp; frequent Passage)

continueth

as intire

as if it were

newly

done.

Upon both sides

of this way, as far as <EM>Capua,</EM> there are a great many

Ancient Sepulchres;

many whereof are altogether ruined,

and some almost intire,

as yet; in one of these Sepulchres,

in the Reign of <EM>Alexander</EM>

VI. (as <EM>Volateranus</EM> tells)

the Body of a Delicat young VVoman,

was

found altogether intire

in a Marble Chist. She was

of incomparable beautie

having

her long Flaxen Hair drawn

together upon her Head with a

Circle of Gold. The Body did

almost swim in a mervellous kind of

Liquor

and had

a

160

burning

Lamp at the Feet

thereof, which the Air, coming

in at the opening

of the Sepulchre, did

instantly

extinguish. The Body (as

did

appear by the Letters

graven

upon the place) had

lyen there thirteen Hundred Years.

Some have been

of Opinion that it was

the Body of <EM>Tulliola,</EM> the

dearly

Beloved

Daughter of <EM>Cicero.</EM> It

was

presented

in its

integrity to the Conservators

of <EM>Rome,</EM> and for some Days

keept

in the Capitol as a singular curiosity; but <EM>Pope

Alexder</EM>

coming

to understand it, caused

it to be thrown

into the <EM>Tyber.</EM>

</P>

<P>

I must not omit to tell you, that there

is

some incommoditie

in this Journey both as to Dyeting

and Lodging;

and sometimes

there is

perill

from the Banditi; But he that

will gather Roses,

must not be affraid

to prick his Fingers:

Besides,

that danger is

but sometimes,

and you may probably

find the way clear, especially,

if the <EM>Vice-Roy</EM> be a stirring

Active Man, as it often happens:

For then the Banditi will hardly

dare to

161

come so far down from the Hills&#0183;

as the <EM>Via appia,</EM> or High-way to <EM>Naples.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Naples</EM> was

Anciently

called

<EM>Parthenope,</EM> from

one of the <EM>Sirens,</EM>

Buried

in this place, (who as the Fables

say) Drowned

her self for Grief, that She could not Charm

<EM>Vlysses</EM>

and his Companions.

Hence <EM>Silius lib:</EM> 12.</P>

<P>

<BR>

<BR>Sirenum dedit una tuum memorab<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

nomen.

<BR>Parthenope muris Acheloias, aequore cujus

<BR>Regnavere d<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>l

cantus, cum dulce per undas,

<BR>Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis.

<BR>

It was

built

Closs upon the Sea, at the foot of most pleasant

Hills;

First built

by the <EM>Cumani</EM> or Inhabitants

of <EM>Cuma;</EM> who being

taken

with the sweetness of the Air &amp; Pleasantness of the Place;

did

daily increase in number; insomuch that the <EM>Cumani</EM>

that lived

at <EM>Cuma,</EM> took

a Resolution utterly

to Ruin <EM>Parthen<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>pe</EM>

162

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>east their

own City should become deso<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>at.

But it being

Ruined,

there came

so great a Pestilence upon <EM>Cuma,</EM> as

carried

away Multitudes,

and having

consulted

the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality; it

was

answered

that this fate had

come upon them

for the Ruine

of <EM>Parthenope;</EM>

and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease, they

should first restore it,

whence with all diligence they went

about the Restauration thereof, and

called

it <EM>Neapolis,</EM> that is

to say the new City. The sweetness of the Air, &amp; delicacy

of the Country about is

so great, that many Emperours

and <EM>Roman Senators</EM>

being

wearied

with the Wars,

and weightiness of Government, did

repair to this place, that they might live

pleasantly

&amp; Peaceably,

&amp; give themselves to the Study of

Letters;

amongst which were

<EM>Virgil, T. Livius, Horatius, Claudianus

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

&amp; a great many more: At this very

present it

is

no less frequented

by the Nobility and

Gentrie

of the whole Kingdom, who for the most part have their own

Palaces

and pass the greatest

part of the

163

Year here; so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few

Cities

in the World more considerable than this. I think it

is

for this Reason, that it is

commonly

called

<EM>Napoli la Gentile:</EM> Nor

is

it to be passed

by, that it gives

name to a Kingdom; which is

not very Ordinary.

</P>

<P>

The City is

big and sumptuously

built

from the Sea to these pleasant Hills

about it. It

is

very well fortified

with strong Walls

&amp; Castles,

especially

since the dayes

of <EM>Charles</EM> V. who built

the Castle of St. <EM>Elme</EM>

and called

it <EM>la Brilia,</EM> that

is,

Bridle; intending

to make it so, to the mutinous Humour of that people, and it

may be alluding

to the <EM>Armes</EM>

of the City, which is

an

unbridled

Horse; the exact emblem of the disposition

of that people, as witness the innumerable

Tumults

and revolts

both of old and late Years

made

by them.

I confess there is

no small occasion given

them

by the severe domination of Strangers

over them;

and it is

strange that having

so many brave and valourous

Men

amongst them,

they

164

should more readily

agree to submit their necks

to the Yoak

of a Stranger, than to the sweet Scepter of a Native of their

own number and Nation. It is

thought the great emulation, (which the

<EM>Spaniards</EM>

as wisely,

as industriously

keep up to the hight) amongst the

Princes,

who are but too numerous for the

extent of the Kingdom,

is

the great cause of their unhappiness.

</P>

<P>

You may take notice of these particulars

within the Town. <EM>1ly.</EM> The

Churches;

of which this City hath

a greater

number, than any other of

its

bigness in <EM>Europe.</EM> Amongst the rest, that of the

<EM>Annunciata,</EM> is

so Rich; that the Rent of the Hospitall

thereof is

capable to entertain, 5000 Poor, part whereof are

Children

found. St. <EM>Chiana,</EM> together with the

Monastrie

of Nuns

consisting

of 400 with as many servants,

is

very glorious; It

was

Built

by <EM>Agnes</EM> of <EM>Spain</EM> Queen to King

<EM>Robert.</EM> There are many curious

Sepulchres

to be seen

here of Kings,

Queens,

and their Children.

In the Church of St. <EM>Dominico</EM>

is

to be seen

165

the Image of the Crucifix, that

said

to St. <EM>Thomas Aquinas; bene scripsisti do me&#0183;

Thoma.</EM> In the Church of the

<EM>Frat<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

di monte Oliueto,</EM>

the true Pictures

of <EM>Ferdinand,</EM> the first and the second; and

<EM>Alfonsus</EM> the First; both

Kings

of <EM>Naples,</EM> are so Admirably

well done

that they seem to be living.

There is

likewise Buried

here <EM>Alexander ab Alexandro,</EM>

who composed

that learned

work <EM>Genialium dierum.</EM> The Church

called

the <EM>Domo,</EM> hath

a Chapell

composed

of Marble, Jasper, Gold and Brass; wherein

is

keept

the Head of St. <EM>Gennaro,</EM>

and a little Phiole of his Blood all

together

fixed,

which being

approached

to the Head of the St. <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>immediatly

begins

to boyll, dissolves

and becomes

clear. The most ancient of all the

Churches

is

that of St. <EM>Paul,</EM> keept

now by the Jesuits;

It was

formerly

the Temple of <EM>Castor</EM>

and <EM>Pollux.</EM>

</P>

<P>

2. The Religious Houses

or Convents;

of which there are so great a number, that the

<EM>Dominicans</EM>

alone have seventeen. The Chartrous convent

stands

upon the

166

Hill, a little beneath the Castle St.

Elm<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>' It

hath

the pleasantest

Situation that I ever beheld;

one may discover from it the whole City and

Suburbs

of <EM>Naples,</EM> a great part of the <EM>Campania

Felice,</EM> the <EM>monte Vesuvio,</EM> all the Bay of

<EM>Naples,</EM> the Island of <EM>Capreae,</EM> the Hill

<EM>Posilipo, Puteoli,

Baii,

Cuma, &amp;c.</EM> The Cloister of the convent

is

all of white Marble, and in short, both the Church and whole

Convent are altogether

Magnificent.

</P>

<P><EM>3ly.</EM> The Hospitals;

which are about twelve in number; amongst which, that of the

<EM>Annunciata</EM> and of the <EM>Incueabili</EM> are the most

considerable. It is

said

that they Marry 665. Maids

every Year, and the least portion they give with any

is

24 Ducats,

and the greatest

300.</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly.</EM> The Castles;

of which there are 4. The Castle <EM>d'Ovo</EM>

stands

within the Sea upon a Rock, built

of an

Oval Figure by <EM>Willam</EM> III. a <EM>Norman.</EM> The

Castle <EM>Nov<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

was

built

by <EM>Charles</EM> the first, Brother to St.

<EM>Lewes,</EM>

but it was

<EM>Ferdinand</EM> of <EM>Aragon</EM>

that fortified

it so well. It is

of a quadrangular figure, Built

of polished

167

Stone as hard as Marble; it hath

foure

great Bastions,

and five Towres,

together with strong

ramparts,

and deep Ditches,

which the Sea water filleth:

It is

ordinarly

keept

by a Garison

of the <EM>Spaniards</EM>

Consisting

of 500. There is

a great Magazin of all kinds

of Armes

&amp; Engines

for War keept

within it. In the middle of it stands

the Governours

Palace, capable to Lodge a King. It

is

excellently

furnished

with Hangings

of silk and gold, many excellent

Statues

and Pictures.

Amongst other fine things

there is

a Cabinet furnished

with all sorts

of curiosities.

The Castle of St. <EM>Elm</EM> stands

upon the top of a Rock, commanding

all about it; It's Garison

consists

of 250. <EM>Spainards.</EM>

It was

built

by King <EM>Robert</EM> the first, Son to <EM>Charles</EM> II.

but afterwards

farr

better fortified

with great Bastions

by the Emperour

<EM>Charles</EM> V. who called

it <EM>La Brillia di Napoli.</EM>

</P>

<P>

The Castle <EM>Capuano</EM> (so

called

from it's situation which is

near to the Port of <EM>Capuano</EM>)

is

rather a Palace than a Fortress where the

Magistrats

of the City,

168

and Officers

of justice keep their Assemblies.

</P>

<P>5. The Palaces;

whereof there are a very great number, amongst which that of the

Viceroy; That of the Prince of <EM>Salern&#0183;</EM> which the

Jesuits

now possess, are very considerable. The Palace of the Duke of

<EM>Gravina</EM> is

most <EM>superb.</EM> That of the

<EM>Carafi</EM>

is

adorned

with abundance of excellent

statues

of Marble and Brass. There be many other

worthie

to be seen:

as also the beautifull

Garden of <EM>Don Garcia di Toledo,</EM> which

is

full of Grotto's, Fountains,

Water works,

statues

<EM>&amp;c.</EM></P>

<P>6. The Harbour, or Sea Port; which

is

fortified

with a Superb mole, first made

by <EM>Charles</EM> II. And then very much

mended

by <EM>Alfonsus</EM> the first, for the

greater

security of the Harbour.</P>

<P>7. The Publick

Places,

the streets,

&amp; the avenues

of the Town.</P>

<P>

8. The Suburbs;

which are seven in number; amongst which the most

considerable,

is

that which leads

<EM>A la grotio di Posilipo;</EM> near to the entry of which

<EM>Grotto</EM> stands

<EM>la mergelina,</EM> looking

into

169

the Bay; it was

sometimes

the House of pleasure of <EM>Sanazarius</EM> that famous Poet,

who gave

it to the Religious men

called

<EM>Servi.</EM> This Suburb is

no less than two miles

in length from the City to the <EM>Grotto</EM> of

<EM>Po<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lipo.</EM>

The Circuit of the Town and Suburbs

is

counted

to be about six

miles:

and the Inhabitants

to be about 30<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>000.

Soules.

<EM>Statius Papinius</EM> and

<EM>Jacobus Sanazarius;</EM> both

excellent

Poets;

together with many other great Virtuosi

were

borne

in this City.

</P>

<P>

It will be worth the while also to take a view of the

Book-sellers

Shops,

there being

many good Books

Printed

here which hardly

or not all can be found with us; as for example, the

works

of <EM>Baptista Porta,</EM> whereof the

Impressions

at <EM>Naples</EM> were

both the first and fairest,

and the Cutts

for the most part Tailledouce. The

works

of <EM>Fabius Columna,</EM> which are almost out of Print, and

especially

his <EM>Phytobasanos.</EM> It may likewise happen that there

are some new peeces

emitted

which will never come to our hands

170

for at least, not tell after a great while. It

is

likely too that You may meet with many other

Books,

that in other places

You had

sought

in vain for: there are many learned

and Curious men

in this City, and they are as mortall

here as elsewhere, and as ordinary a thing it

is

to sell their Books.

</P>

<P>You will likewise meet with a great many

curiosities

of all sorts,

espccially from the <EM>Levant:</EM> some

naturall;

as stones,

shells,

Animalls,

or parts

of them,

fruits

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> Others artificiall;

some of Leather, as Purses,

Letter-cases,

cups,

and a great many things

of that kind, usualy

brought

from <EM>Allepo</EM> and <EM>Constantinople:</EM>

Some of Silk either alone, or mingled

with gold and silver; as Sashes,

Girdles,

Cravats,

Night-Caps,

wastcoats,

stockings,

<EM>&amp;c.</EM> Outlandish Armes,

as Cimetres, Poyniards,

Bows

and Arrows,

with severall

sorts

of fire Armes.

Medalls

antient

and modern: Intalio'<EM>s</EM> Chameo'<EM>s &amp;c.</EM> But in

these You must take some heed, that You mistake not the modern

for antique.</P>

<P>

171

Having

well viewed

and considered

the City and all things

in it. It will be necessary to see those

things

that are considerable

about it. And first the Hill <EM>Posilipus,</EM>

famous for it's Gardens

and Houses

of Pleasure, for it's Fruits

and Wines,

especially

the <EM>greco di Posilipo.</EM> But that which

is

most Admirable in this Hill is

the Passage cut quite thro' it. By <EM>Cocceius</EM> of

whom

<EM>Pontanus</EM> saith,

<EM>Nescio an

is

fuerit M. Cocceius

Nerua

Augusti Avus, qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulit{que}

m<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ximam

Architecturae Laudem.</EM> Howeve<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

it is

certain he must have been

a man of great Riches

that durst

undertake so great a work, at his

oun

expence.

It is

called

<EM>la Grotta di Posilipo,</EM> and

is

very near a mile in length, cutt

thro' the Rock. As for the breadth of it, one Coach may pass

another with ease. And for the Hight, I believe a man on

Horseback will hardly

touch the Roof of it with a Lance; At the two

ends

it is

some what higher

than in the middle, I think of purpose that the light might

enter the farther. When You enter at the one end You

172

will very hardly

perceive the light in the other end, but as You advance it

begins

to appear by little and little. In the Just middle of it, on

that side which is

next the Sea, there is

a little Chapell,

where a Lamp is

keept

continually

burning,

but it is

more out of Devotion than for any light it

gives:

betwixt the Chapell

and the end, as it were

about the middle on every side of the

Chapell

there is

a hole cutt

thro' the Hill which serveth

for a window, but it

gives

little light. It is

exceeding

dusty, especeially if there be many

Horses

Ryding

together altho'

it be paven

with stone, because there comes

no Rain to wash it, and none takes

pains

to make it clean. Those that goe

from <EM>Naples</EM> to <EM>Pozzuolo</EM> if they hear any

Horses

Coaches

or Carts

coming

toward them,

least they should stop the way, or unawares Justle one

another, they use to cry aloud <EM>dal mare,</EM> which when

the others hear, they cry in like manner <EM>dal monte</EM>

and so those that goe

from <EM>Naples</EM> take that side of the <EM>Grotto,</EM>

which is

next the Sea and these that go to it take the side

173

next the Hill; and so avoid all

incumbrance.

At the mouth of the <EM>Grotto,</EM> upon the top thereof

is

the famous Sepulchre of <EM>Virgil.</EM> There

is

little remaning

of it now except a few Ruins

of an

old Brick wall in the middle whereof

anciently

there did

stand nine small Pillars,

which sustained

a Marble U<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

in which were

contained

the Poets

ashes,

with this Distich.

<BR>

<BR>Mantua me genuit, Calabri

rapuere, tenet nunc

<BR>Parthonope; cecini pascua, rura, duces.

<BR>

</P>

<P>Not far from this Tomb, is

the Sepulchre of that famous

Poet <EM>Sanazarius,</EM> in a Place

called

<EM>Mergelina,</EM> a <EM>Villa</EM>

given

him

by King <EM>Frederick,</EM> where he

built

a Church in Honour of the BIessed Virgin, and

composed

that incomparable <EM>Poem de partu Virginis.</EM> He

is

Buried

within the Church in a Tomb of pure Marble upon which his statue

done

to the life standeth with this Epitaph by Cardinal

<EM><FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>embo.</EM></P>

<BR>Da Sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni Sineerus, musa

proximus, ut tumulo.<BR>

<P>

174

There are many other excellent Statues,

Base Relieves,

and Pictures

within this Church well worthie

the seeing.

</P>

<P>When you go to <EM>Pozzuolo,</EM> you must take a Guide with

you to show you all the considerable

Places.

It will be a good dayes

Journey because You have many Things

to see and consider, and therefore you must part early in the

Morning from <EM>Naples.</EM> The first thing you will meet with

upon the Way, (but you turne

out of the common way) is

the <EM>Lago di Agnano</EM> at the side of which are the Natural

stoves

of St. <EM>German,</EM> which are certain little

roomes,

where the hot and Sulphureous Vapors

entering

from the Ground quickly

provoke sweating,

and is

commended

in severall

diseases.</P>

<P>

At a little distance from thence,

upon the side of the Lake

is

the <EM>Grotto de I Cani.</EM> It

is

a little hole dug out of the side of a Brae where two or three

Persons

scarcely

can stand. The Floore

of it is

ordinarily

wet and dirtie,

out of which there riseth

a Poisonous Vapour,

175

in form of Smoak,

but it ascendeth

not above a Foot from the Ground. They use to

trie

it with Torches

and Dogs,

which you must carrie

from <EM>Naples</EM> with you, for you will not find

them

upon the Place. As for the Torches,

the guide lights

two, and then reaches

one of them

to the Smoak,

which instantly

extinguishes,

as if it were

blown

out by the force of Powder: Then he

lights

it at the other, and so renews

the experiment as oft as

you please, keeping

always

one lighted,

untill

your Curiositie

be satisfied;

as for the Dogs

he holds

their Nose into the Vapour, and

instantly

they begin to fetch their Breath thick, and in a very little

space are quite suffocated.

If ye let them

ly long, they will never recover, but if ye take

them

immediately

when they are fallen

down and throw them

into the Lake, they will by little and little

returne

to live again. I guesse

this Vapour to be so much like the

Damps,

that are sometimes

found in our Coal-pitts,

only, with us, they are soon dissipated,

but here this lasteth

176

continuallie,

and (which is

yet more strange) in an

open Air; but it may be the openness of the Air

is

the Reason why the Vapour ascendeth

no higher.

I remember one of our Dogs

did

recover without being

thrown

into the Lake, which makes

me believe, that it is

not any peculiar Vertue

in the water (as is

commonly

said)

that restoreth

them

to life, but only the freedom of the Air, with the help

whereof Nature reinforceth

it self, the life being

yet not quite extinct, which

is

cleared

by this, that if they lye

any considerable time in the cave, neither Air nor water will

recover them.

It is

very True that, That which was

thrown

in the Lake recovered

much sooner,

and better: whereas the other remained

paralytick,

and impotent to move his hinder

quarters:

(tho' he could Sit upon his foremost

Leggs

and bark&#0183;) for almost two

houres

thereafter. It seems

there is

something in this Vapour or Damp that

coagulats

or fixes

the Spirits,

that they cannot move or circulat

in the Body.

</P>

<P>

177

From hence you take the Way to <EM>Pazzuolo,</EM> near to

which you will meet with a Place

called

<EM>la Solfatara,</EM> it is

a large plaine,

Oval in Figure, representing

a Theatre, it

is

above 1200 Foot in length and 1000 in breadth, it

is

compassed

about with white &amp; high Hills,

from which in many Places,

arise Clouds

of smoak,

of a Sulphureous smell,

rolling

up into the Air impetuously,

with great crackling.

Some of these spiracles

are very small, so that it is

a Pleasure, to see the

Smoake

ascend, by a direct line of the bigness of cane, and

sometimes

smaller

by much. About these spiracles

you will see Quantitie

of the Flowres

of Brimstone sublimed;

but I suspect the internal use of

them,

because of the mixture of

other minerals

wherewith they may be infected:

But for external uses,

I am

not so doubtfull,

as also of the Spirit which by the help of convenient

Glasses

might be gathered

in aboundance

from these spiracles.

When you consider the plaine

you will wonder to hear it sound under your

Horse-feet,

as you were

Riding

over a large Floore,

which is

caused

178

by the Vacuitie

underneath. All the Hills

about abound in veines

of Allum

whereof some is

scissile; nitre, Sulphur, Vitriol

&amp; Salt Armoniac. The Vitriol

is

of a Delicat blew

Colour and much finer

than that which is

commonly

called

<EM>Roman-Vitriol.</EM>

It will be worth your while to take particular notice of these

minerals,

how they are extracted

out of their mines,

what differences

there are of every Species, how they are

mixed

with one another sometimes,

by what Art they are purified,

and with what Instruments,

and to what use they are put. I would have you take a Parcel

of every sort and bring along with you, which you may box up

at <EM>Naples</EM> with Cotton, and send before you to

<EM>Rome.</EM>

</P>

<P>

Having

done

these things,

you come to <EM>Pozzuolo;</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Puteoli.</EM> The City is

now much Ruined;

but was

Stately and Rich of Old. <EM>Cicero</EM>

writing

to <EM>Atticus</EM>

saith

<EM>quid potui non videre cum per Emporeum puteolanum iter

facerem;</EM> which is

Chieflly to be understood

of that part of the Town, which

stood

upon the

179

Shoare

where the Arti<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ans,

and chiefly

the Goldsmiths,

had

their Shops,

whereof there

remaines

little now except the Ruins,

and Vestiges: And yet beneath the Church <EM>di Giesu

Maria,</EM> possessed

by the Dominicans,

when the Wind dryves out the Sea, they do find

sometimes

severall

Precious Stones,

some cutt,

some uncutt; and if you be Curious to

enquire

you will find People that make a Trade to sell such

things

amongst other Anticails. I remember there

came

severall

of these Persons

to our Lodging-House,

with Medals,

<EM>Intaglio's, Lucerne

Antiche</EM> &amp;c. But I found many of

them

to be cheats,

and but moderne,

brought

thither from <EM>Naples</EM> and other

Places,

of purpose to cheat Strangers,

who are ordinarly

more Curious than knowing

of these things;

As for Medals,

were

they never so Ancient, they are little worth unless they be

well preserved,

and the Characters

and impressions

easie

to be discerned.

And for Intaglio's unless the Figure be good&#0183; and well

done,

and the Stone entire and unbroken, they are not

180

worth much. The great Church now

dedicated

to St. <EM>Proclus</EM> was

anciently

dedicated

to <EM>Octavianus Augustus.</EM> It

is

a Sumptuous Fabrick

of great square Marble Stones;

serving

for the whole thickness of the Wall, with great and high

<EM>Corinthian</EM> Pillar's, and other

Excellent

Ornaments

of Architecture.

</P>

<P>

Here are also be seen

many Ruins

of great antiquitie,

amongst which she Gardens

of <EM>Cicero</EM> famous for his Academy, where he

wrote

his <EM>Quaestiones Academicae.</EM>

But this City, in diverse ages

has

suffered

so much by the tumults

of Wars,

as also by the eruptions

of fire and earthquakes,

that it is

wonderfull

there should yet remain any vestiges of

Antiquitie.

The Soil about it is

most fertile and fruitfull,

and nature produceth

here many Plants

of it's oun

accord, which in other places

are kept

in Gardens,

not without care: among others I remember to have

seen

the <EM>Ricinus</EM> or <EM>Palma Christi</EM> not only

growing

wild but out-living

that Winter, and continuing

fresh green and strong in the month of <EM>March;</EM>

altho'

181

it be an

<EM>Annual</EM> Plant with us, that can

hardly

be raised

upon a hot bed.

</P>

<P>

You may have your Horse at <EM>Pozzuolo,</EM> and

hyre

a boat to cross the Bay for seeing

of the following

things,

And 1. hard by the City the remains

of that <EM>Superb mole,</EM> which

having

been

ruined

by storme

was

afterwards

Restored

by the Emperour

<EM>Antoninus:</EM> But at present all that

Remains

is

12. or 13. great Pillars

built

of Brick and stones

of vast bigness. They appear so many

towrs,

over which there are yet remaining,

but half Ruined,

some Arches.

This fashion of Moles

seem to be the best, because the

Pillars

and Arches

are sufficient to break the water and secure the

Ships

within, and by letting

part of the water enter betwixt the

Pillars

lessens

it's violence, so that the Pillars

suffer not half so much, as if they

were

one continued

wall. The Emperour

<EM>Caligulae</EM> built

a bridge of boats

from <EM>Pozzuolo to Baii</EM>

upon which he went

in Triumph first on Horsback

and then in Chariot, but it was

of small continuance and served

only to be the subject of discourse in

182

future ages.

Having

passed

these Pillars.

Yov put ashore hard by the <EM>Lacus

Lucrinus</EM> which as some

said

was

so called

<EM>a Lucro</EM> from the profit which it

yeilded

to the <EM>Romans</EM>

by the great abundance of excellent Fish

especialie

<EM>Oysters,</EM>

which were

esteemed

before any other in <EM>Italy:</EM> Whence <EM>Martial</EM> to

express the Gluttony of a

certain Person.

</P>

<P>Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino.</P>

<P>

But there is

little water in it now, it being

almost dryed

up by that most Terrible

eruption of the <EM>Solfatara</EM> which

happned

in the Year 1538. the 29. of <EM>September</EM> two

hours

after Sun set, the whole countrey

about having

been

troubled

for two Years

before with Earthquakes:

At which time there burst out in one night so great a

quantitie

of fire, Stones,

Pumecks, and ashes,

that near to the <EM>monte Barbaro</EM>

formerly

called

<EM>mons Gaurus</EM> it made

another Hill, near three miles

in compass, and almost as high as the <EM>monte Barbaro.</EM>

The south part of it looks

to the Sea, the north reaches

to the <EM>Lacus Avernus,</EM> &amp; on the East it

is

183

joined

with the foot of <EM>Monte Barbaro.</EM> It

is

called

<EM>monte Nuovo.</EM> These ashes

did

not only make this Hill, but covered

likewise a great part of the

Country about, Killing

both beasts

and Trees,

and ruining

the Vintage for that Year. The Sea in the mean time

retired

above 200 paces,

leaving

abundance of Fish upon the dry sands,

and many Wells

of fresh Water, which sprung

here and there.

</P>

<P>

2. The <EM>Lacus Avernus</EM> is

about half a miles

distance from the <EM>Lago lucrino.</EM> It

is

compassd

about with small Hills

which they say were

formerly

covered

with Trees,

that did

over shaddow

the water, and make it look

black, and likewise

did

hinder the Sulphureous Vapours

that did

arise from the water to dissipat,

so that the Air being

infected

with these vapours

became

so noysome

especially

to Fowls,

that they could not live in it, and hence

came

the Name <EM>Avernus.</EM> At present there

is

little or no Wood about it, nor

is

the Air any thing more noysome

there, than in other places

about, and I have seen

Fowles

184

haunting

about it and swimming

in it. It is

said

to be very deep &amp; for that reason without Fish but I

am

not certain hereof.

</P>

<P>

3. Upon the west side of the Lake,

cutt

into the Hill is

the <EM>Antrum Sybillae</EM> commonly

called

<EM>Grotta della Sybilla,</EM> but not

truly,

for the true Cave of <EM>Sybill<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

is

at <EM>C<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a.</EM>

This seems

rather to have been

a common passage from <EM>Avernus</EM> to

<EM>P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ia,</EM>

but is

now stopt

at the one end by the falling

down of the Hill above. The

passage is

large and High, but altogether dark, and therefore You must be

guided

by Torch light. When You are got

a good way in, upon the one side there

is

a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in

length, that leads

into a handsome large Chamber,

which altho'

it be now much ruined,

appears

to have been

Richly

adorned,

the Roof of it being

Painted

with Gold and Blew,

and the Walls

with curious figures

of divers

colours

and the Pavement

consisting

of many small peeces

like unto <EM>Mosaick.</EM>

It is

a vulgar errour

that this was

<EM>Sybilla</EM>'s Chamber, and

185

that the Temple of <EM>Apollo,</EM> where she

received

her Responses, was

hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake; But it

is

not so, for the Ruins

of that Place appeare

not to have been

any Temple at all, But rather a

Superb Bathing

House, such as that of <EM>Baia,</EM> for it

has

the same order of Windows,

&amp; Spiracles

for conducting

of the Vapours.

But to returne

to the <EM>Grotto,</EM> upon the left hand, as You enter into

this Chamber, there is

another Passage, some what higher

and larger

than the first, about 40. foot in length cut out into the

Hill, which leads

into another Chamber, from which there

is

a narrow passage, which leads

into another Chamber, and severall

other little passages

and Roomes

which <EM>I</EM> doe not distinctly

remember, only this much that in one of

them,

there is

as it were

a little Pool of Warm Water. In this Room the heat

is

so great, that it is

impossible to continue any

time in it without excessive

Sweating,

which makes

me to believe, that these Rooms

were

intended

for no other use than Bathing

and Sweating.

</P>

<P>

186

4. The Remains

or Ruins;

and first <EM>Bagno di Cicerone. 2ly. Bagno di Tritoli; quasi

Frittoli, q<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>od

Corpora ibi fricrentur,</EM> The

Entrie

to it is

large and high. Towards

the ground it is

cold, but if you stand upright You must

needs

Sweat for Heat, and the farther one

goes

in, the greater

the Heat is.

At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark, and even where the

Sea covers

it, the Sand is

so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull

of it.

</P>

<P>

5. <EM>Baia;</EM> So called

from <EM>Baius,</EM> the Companion of

<EM>Vlysses,</EM>

who was

Buried

there. It was

a most delicat City, but now altogither

Ruined,

and in the place of it there is

a Castle lately

Built

with a a Garison

of 30. Souldiers

for Securing

the Port, which is

verie

safe for Gallies,

but not deep enough for Ships.

The whole Bay, or <EM>Sinus</EM> of <EM>Baia,</EM>

is

exceedingly

Pleasant; all that Tract betwixt <EM>Avernus</EM> and the

<EM>Mons Misenus</EM> being

full of the Remains

of great and Noble structures.

Many of the <EM>Roman</EM> Emperours

took

great pleasure in this place, &amp; and

spared

no cost for the beautifying

of

167

it. <EM>Horace,</EM> who was

no ill Judge, gives

this Testimony of it,

<BR>Nullus in Orbe

locus Baiis praelucet amoenis.<BR>

</P>

<P>

As You go forward from <EM>Baia,</EM> You will still be

finding

something worthie

the Remarking;

as, 1. The House of <EM>Agrippina,

Nero</EM>'s Mother, who was

put to Death here by her Sons

Command. It is

commonly

said

to be her Sepulchre, but it is

not true. There is

yet to be seen

the Plaister

of the Roof and walls

in severall

Curious figures,

but they are much defaced

by the smoak

of the Torches

which strangers

from all parts

so frequently

carry down with them.

2. That delicat Pleasant Field called

the <EM>Eligium,</EM> so much renowned

by <EM>Virgil</EM> in the <EM>6th.</EM> Book of the

<EM>Aeneids.</EM> All the Noble

Persons

that lived

here abouts,

or did

otherwise attend upon the

Court, which did

often happen to be here, likewise those that for their

Health's sake came

to the Bath's, used

to walk in this place for their

188

Recreation and Converse. I am

easily

inclined

to believe that considering

it's Situation, Prospect, and the Order that it

was

keept

in, when so many great Persons

frequented

it, It could not chuse

but have been

the most delicious Place in the whole World, and no wonder

that it Prompted

<EM>Virgil</EM> to Borrow both it's name and his Conceit in

expressing

and describing

the Place of the Blessed

Soules

Departed.

I saw

it in the begining

of the Moneth

of <EM>March,</EM> and then the Heat

was

considerable, and the Place not only green but

covered

with <EM>Anemonies</EM>

and other Flowers.

Hard by this, is

the <EM>Piscina Miraebilis:</EM> it

is

a Cistern for

keeping

of fresh Water, of a vast Bigness, the Roof whereof

is

supported

by 48. great Pillars

on everie

side. The whole inside of it is

Crusted

over with a kind of Plaster as hard as

Marble, which whither it

was

so made

by Art, or by the Continuance of the Water in it, I know not,

but I think it probable that both have

contributed

to it. <EM>Boccace</EM> in his Book of

Rivers,

believs

189

it to have been

built

by <EM>Agrippa,</EM> for preserving

of fresh Water, for the Commodity

of the Navie

which used

to stay at <EM>Misenum.</EM> The Water

was

brought

to it by aquedu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ts

from <EM>Serino.</EM> 3. <EM>Mons Misenus</EM> or the

<EM>Promontorium Misenum,</EM> so

called

from <EM>Misenus, Aeneas</EM>'s

Trumpeter, who

was

Buried

here. It is

of a Reasonable Hight, and without doubt the prospect from it

is

Noble; but I did

not ascend it, by reason of the

Company that would not stay

for me.

</P>

<P>4. The <EM>Centum Cellae;</EM> which are a

continued

Fabrick

built

of Brick with great Art under ground, it

seems

they have been

Cisterns

for Conserving

of Water. In short, all this peece

of ground is

full of ancient Ruins,

and it is

not easie

to Guesse,

what every one of them

in Particular

hath

been.</P>

<P>

Having

vieued all these things,

you either go straight to

<EM>Cuma,</EM> or else you leave it for another Day, and so

returne

to <EM>Pozzulo,</EM> by the same Boat that

waited

upon you from it, and so returne

by Horse, by the lower but plainer

and

190

more pleasant Way, to <EM>Naples,</EM> from from whence the

next Day you may go to <EM>Cuma,</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Cumae;</EM> a City built

upon the Top of a Hill six Miles

from <EM>Naples;</EM> upon the highest

Top of this Hill stood

the Temple of <EM>Apollo</EM> built

by <EM>Dedalus,</EM> when he fled

from the wrath of King <EM>Minos.</EM> It

was

in this Temple that <EM>Sybilla Cumea</EM>

did

pronounce the Oracles

of <EM>Apollo.</EM> Hence that of <EM>Virgil,</EM>

<BR>

<BR>At pius Aeneas arces quibus altus Apollo

<BR>Praesidet, horrendae{que} procul secreta Sybillae.

<BR>

</P>

<P>

As you descend from <EM>Cuma</EM> upon that side that

looks

to the East, is

to be seen

the Frontis-peece

of the true <EM>Grotta</EM> of <EM>Sybilla,</EM> which

was

cut out of the solid Rock, which <EM>Virgil</EM>

describeth,

<BR>Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum.<BR>

</P>

<P>There are many other Ancient

Ruins

worthie

the taking

notice of, which you may have leasure

enough to observe, and have time enough to

returne

to <EM>Naples</EM> at Night.</P>

<P>

191

The next Day you may take Horse again and a Guide with you

from the Town, to see the burning

Hill, about 8 Miles

distant from the Town; It is

called

in Latine

<EM>Vesuvius,</EM> and in Italian <EM>Monte di soma,</EM> from

the great Plentie

of all things

wherewith it aboundeth.

the Hill it self is

of a very Large Compass, and

about the middle divided

in two Tops,

of which one is

much abated

of its

length by the burning.

Before the first eruption of the Fire, it

was

much higher

than the other, but now it is

by much the lower. It is

not easily

accessible both in regard of its

steepness, and the great Quantitie

of Ashes

that cover it every where, by

Reason whereof, the ascent becomes

slippery and uncertain. In

the ascending,

you may take nottice of many several

Channels,

some larger

and deeper,

some narrower

and shallower

made

by the Torrents

of burning

Sulphur and other Mineral Substances,

which Boyled

out at the Top in the last great eruption it

made,

which torrents

were

carried

several

192

Miles

into the Gulf or bay of <EM>Naples</EM>

without being

quenched,

and killed

the Fishes

in the middle of the deep. You may

likeways

take notice of the various Mineral

Substances,

&amp; Stones

burn'd to <EM>Pumick,</EM> which are

scattered

over the whole Hill. When you come at the Top you will see the

great Gulf made

by the several

eruptions,

which is

suposed

to be six Miles

in compasse

about the Brimmes,

so that it makes

a very large plain Field at the Bottom, that in deepness from

the brimm

is

not above a hundred Yards,

it is

all covered

with Ashes,

and nothing green in it,

except it be some few Tufts,

of I cannot tell what, not being

able to Judge of them

at that distance. The descent to the Bottom at some

places

seems

to be easie

enough, but we could find none so

hardie

as to venture to show us the way,

altho'

some of our Guides

had

undertaken

it before, and to speak truth, it

is

no great discretion to venture so far down upon a Ground,

which probably

is

not able to support one, being

nothing in appearance but a

193

Field of Ashes

of uncertain deepthness. You will see in a Hundred diverse

Places,

Spiracles,

some greater,

some smaller,

out of which the Smoak

rises

impetuously,

as it were

shott

out of a Gun, and with a continual

Crackling,

like that of Thunder at a distance, or the

quenching

of Fire. When you have satisfied

your Curiositie

of seeing

all, you must return the same Day, and take your Horse where

you left him,

about the middle of the Hill; and so

returne

to <EM>Naples.</EM> It is

usuall

for Strangers

to light at a Village about

midway to the City, to Taste of these excellent

Wines,

that grow upon the fertile places

of the Hill, and particularly

of <EM>Lachryma Christi,</EM> otherways

called

<EM>Lagrima di Soma,</EM> which

is

a gross bodied

Red Wine, strong and sweet to the taste, and very pleasant.

</P>

<P>In the suburbs

of the Town, as you return, you

may see the Kings

Stables,

where the choisest

Horses

of the Kingdom are menaged

and keept

for the Kings

use.</P>

<P>

Thus having

vieued all in &amp; about <EM>Naples,</EM>

it will be time to order your return

194

for <EM>Rome,</EM> by the same way you

came,

nor do I remember any other thing

needfull

to be observed

or advised,

except that you must l<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>t<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

your Baggage <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e

vieued at the Gate&#0183; as you go out, and take a Pass from

the Customers;

or which you will pay some small thing. You will

likeways

do well to rid your self of all Spanish

Monie

(gold excepted)

unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your

expenses

to <EM>Fu<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>die,</EM>

because it will not pass in any place of <EM>Italy,</EM>

except such as are under the

<EM>Spanish Dominion.</EM>

</P>

<P>

If the Season of the Year be good, there

is

excellent Her<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rising

upon this <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>oade

to <EM>Naples.</EM> You will find Wild in the

Fields,

many sorts

of <EM>Narcissus</EM>'s, many Colours

of single <EM>Anemone</EM>'s, <EM>Squills:

As<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>h<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>delus

albus ma<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>or;

Tithymalus Dendroides.</EM>

It is

a Plant I never saw,

except upon the way from <EM>Pipern<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>T<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rrachina,</EM>

about mid way upon a Hill side,

where it groweth

in great aboundance.

It is

a stately tall Plant, <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

reading

it self into severall

Branches,

some whereof I observed

to be as big as a

195

Mans

Wrist. It had

few or no leaves

on it in the Season when I saw

it, which was

<EM>March,</EM> but aboundance

of Yellow Flowers

at the Top's of the Branches:

The <EM>Ficus indica lati-folia,</EM>

is

a Beastly weed in the same

Place, and spoiles

all the Ground; every leafe

that falls

springing

up into a new Plant, which at last

becometh

hard and woodie.

<EM>Tuchr<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>um

lusit anicum arborescens,</EM> of which I

saw

some goodly tufts

near to <EM>Terachina.</EM> There be many other, which for

brevities

sake I omit to mention, and likeways

a great many that I have forgot,

having

lost

those notes

I made

of their names

and places;

but I hope you will supply this defect,

being

your self much more able to do it.

</P>

<P>

Being

returned

to <EM>Rome,</EM> which I shall suppose to be about the middle

or end of <EM>April:</EM> It will be

fitt

for you to think of the next Voyage

towards

<EM>Loretto,</EM> unless you

resolve to pass the Summer at <EM>Rome,</EM> for after the

<EM>20th.</EM> of <EM>May,</EM>

untill

the latter <EM>Rains</EM>

fall (which is

commonly

about the middle of <EM>September,</EM> or

196

the beginning

of <EM>October,</EM> the extream

heat makes

Travel very unseasonable. But if in the case of necessity,

such as Pestilence, or War, you should be

forced

to undertake the Journey, you must order it so as to Travel

most in the Night, and Rest in the heat of the Day, and be

sure not to Sleep till you have

passed

the <EM>Campania</EM> of <EM>Rome,</EM> as I have

formerly

marked.

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>The Way to Loretto from Rome.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Miles.</LI>

<EM>Prima porta </EM>

<LI>7</LI>

<EM>Castel

Novo </EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Rignano </EM>

<LI>7</LI>

<EM>Civita </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>O<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ricoli

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Nar<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>i

</EM>

<LI>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</LI>

<EM>Terni</EM>

<LI>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</LI>

<EM>Strettur<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Spolet<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Passo di Spel<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>to

</EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>Verchi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>no

B<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rg<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>

197

Pi<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> di

dignano

</EM>

<LI>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</LI>

<EM>Mucc<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>a

Castello </EM>

<LI>7</LI>

<EM>Valcimara </EM>

<LI>8</LI>

<EM>To<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>entino

</EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Macerata </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Loretto </EM>

<LI>6</LI>

</UL>

<P>

I have not much to say of the particular

places

upon this Road, only <EM>Tern<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

is

an

Ancient City and pleasantly

situated;

the River <EM>Negra,</EM> in Latine

<EM>Nar</EM> being

divided

in many Branches,

and drawn

through the Town, are as it were

so many little Rivers,

whence also the Town in Latine

is

called

<EM>Interamna:</EM> the Meadowes

&amp; Fields

about it, are exceedingly

fertile, in so much that the meadowes

are mowen three or four times

a Year; and they talk that Turneps

are often found there of five or six &amp;

thirtie

weight, of which seaven

or eight will load an

Ass; it is

also renowned

for Pidgeons,

which are thought the biggest

&amp; most savoury in <EM>Italy.</EM> If you can take the

leisure to stay here any time, it will be worth your

198

while to see the <EM>Lago di piedi luco,</EM> in

Latine

<EM>Lacus velinus</EM> (not far from <EM>Terni</EM>) which

is

said

to be the middle of all <EM>Italy,</EM>

that which is

most considerable in it, is

the <EM>Issue</EM> of the Waters

from it, which was

cut by a <EM>Roman Consul</EM> through a Rock, whence it

Rushes

out, and falls

over so great a hight of Rocks,

that it makes

a noise which may be heard

at ten Miles

distance, and makes

a greater

<EM>cascata</EM> then that of <EM>Tivoli.</EM> From

<EM>Verchian<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

you have the <EM>Appennine</EM> to pass, which

is

that ridg of Hills

that divides

all <EM>Italy</EM> by the length.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Valcimara,</EM> the way

is

exceeding

good to <EM>Loretto.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>Loretto</EM> it self is

a little Town not very Ancient,

built

upon the Top of a Hill, not above 3 or 4

Miles

from the <EM>Adriatick</EM>

Sea, it is

fortified

reasonably

well: the most considerable thing in it,

is

the Church, in the Quire whereof

stands

the <EM>Casa S<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ncta,</EM>

brought

thither from <EM>Judeae</EM> Miraculously

by <EM>Angels,</EM>

as is

beleeved.

This is

the House in which the blessed

Virgin is

said

to have been

Born. The

199

out-side of it is

walled

about with Marble cut into

excellent Figures,

but yet so as the Walls

touch not the Holy House. The inside

hath

continually

Lamps

burning

in it, some of Gold, some of Silver. There

is

in it a Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin, which they say

were

painted

by St. <EM>Luke.</EM> The Image of the Virgin, which

stands

upon the Altar, hath

a Garment upon it all covered

with Pearles,

&amp; upon the Head a Crown of Gold,

enriched

with Jewells;

upon the Top whereof there is

a Carbuncle of the bigness

of an

Egg. There is

likeways

shown

within the House a little Dish, out of which our Saviour

is

said

to have Eat his Meat whilst he was

yet a Babe. People commonly

bring their Beads,

Medals,

&amp; other peeces

of Devotion to be put in this Dish, &amp; to touch the other

relicts.

The <EM>Sacristia</EM> is

well worthy the seeing

because of the

Jewels,

and other Rich presents

and Ornaments

belonging

to the House, which are keept

there, and have been

given

and offered

continualy,

by allmost

all Princes

and great Persons

in

200

Christendom. The Cellar is

likeways

worthie

the seeing,

being

exceedingly

Large and full of Wines.

Amongst others they

ordinarly

shew

one great Tun out of which they draw 3 or 4

sorts

of Wine, some red, some white. The

number of

Pilgrims,

and other Persons,

that out of Devotion resort to this Place, from all the

parts

of Christendom, is

allmost

infinit,

insomuch that every Day appears

to be a holy Day and the whole Year but one

continued

Feast. So soon as the Gates

are opened

in the morning, they begin to enter as it

were

in Procession. I believe

there are but few Inhabitants

in the Town, except a few Trades-men

of all sorts,

for the Accommodation of

Strangers,

the greatest

part are Merchants,

that sell nothing but Beads

and peeces

of Devotion, such as Medals

of Silver, Gold, Brass, Christal

&amp;c. Books

of Devotion, and such like. There

is

good Accommodation in the Town, at a reasonable Rate. The City

is

Commanded

by a Governour,

who hath

his Palace near to the Church.

201

We were

Recommended

to him

by Cardinal <EM>Charles

Barbarini,</EM> and were

treated

by him

with great Civilitie;

his Secretary

being

commanded

to wait upon us, and show us all that

was

considerable in the place.

</P>

<P>After two days

stay here we dismissed

our Horses

that we brought

from <EM>Rome,</EM> and Hyred

new ones

from <EM>Loretto</EM> to <EM>Bolognia.</EM></P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Loretto to Bolognia.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Miles</LI>

<EM>Ancona </EM>

<LI>15</LI>

<EM>La casa Brugiata </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Cenigalia </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Fano </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Pesaro </EM>

<LI>6</LI>

<EM>Rimini </EM>

<LI>20</LI>

<EM>Sanigniana Castello </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Cesena </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Furli </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Faenza </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Imola </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>St. Nicola Castello </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Bolognia </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

</UL>

<P>

202

<EM>Ancona</EM> is

about half a days

Journey from <EM>Loretto.</EM> It

is

a verie

ancient City and the best Sea Port in <EM>Italy,</EM> at least

upon the <EM>Adriatick</EM>

Coast: The Port was

Built,

at least Restored

and Beautified,

by <EM>Trajan</EM> the Emperour,

in whose Honour a most stately

Triumphal Arch was

Raised

upon it, which it yet extant, with this Inscription in Capital

Letters.

<EM>Imp. Caes. di<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>i

Nervae F. Nervae Trajano optimo

August.</EM> Germanic. <EM>Daetico. Pontef. max. Tr. Pot. xix.

Imp. xi. Cos. vii. P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R.

Quod adcessum Italiae, Hoc etiam

addito ex pecunia sua Portum

tutiorem Navigantibus

reddiderit.</EM> And upon the Right side thereof You may Read

this Inscription <EM>Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug.</EM> And upon

the left, <EM>Divae Marcian: Aug: sorori August.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Cenigalia</EM> is

a little Town having

a Sea-Port&#0183; It seems

from the name to have been

built,

and to have belonged

to the <EM>Galli Cenones.</EM></P>

<P>

<EM>Fano,</EM> Antiently

<EM>Fanum;</EM> because of the Temple of Fortune that

stood

here; There

203

is

a stately Triumphall

Arch of Marble 30, Cubits

High. <EM>Pesaro</EM> is

a very Pleasant and handsome

City having

many fine Houses

and a Magnificent Palace, It is

well Peopled

and well Fortified.

The Duke of <EM>Vrbin,</EM> to whom

this City did

belong, used

to pass one half of the Year here; But since his Death without

Heirs

Male the whole Dutchie

is

Reunited

to the <EM>Ecclesiastick</EM>

state.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Rimini,</EM> in Latine

<EM>Ariminum;</EM> is

like to be so called

from the River <EM>Arimine</EM> that

passes

by it. There are severall

fair Palaces

in it, built

by the <EM>Mala-testi</EM> antient

Lords

of the Place. There is

a Triumphal Arch

erected

in Honour of <EM>Augustus,</EM> yet extant, and the

Ruines

of a great Theatre. But the most considerable thing of all

is

the Bridge, Built

of great square Marble stones,

of twentie

foot in length and 15. in breadth, with five

Arches.

The Bridge Joynes

the <EM>Via Flaminia</EM> and the <EM>Via Emilia</EM>

together. It is

said

to have been

Built

by <EM>Tiberius Caesar.</EM> In the Mercat place there

is

to be seen

the stone upon which <EM>Julius Caesar</EM>

stood,

and encouraged

204

his Officers,

when he began

the Civil War. This Stone hath

this Inscription <EM>C.

Caesar D. Rubicone superato, civili Bello, Comilitones suos

hic in for<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Ariminensi

adlocutus.</EM>

</P>

<P>Within a Mile of <EM>Cesina,</EM> or there

abouts,

You must pass the <EM>Rubicon,</EM> which

seems

to be but a Torrent, and in the Summer time for the most part

dry; At the place where You pass there

is

yet extant

an

ancient Pillar, the Inscription whereof

hath

made

the name of <EM>Rubicon</EM> so famous. it

is

as follows;

<EM>Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos.

Imp. Myli

Tyro Comilito manipulariaeve

Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae

armat quis quis est hic sistito. Vexillum sinito, ne citra hunc

amnem Rubiconem signa, Arma,

ductum, commeatum,

Exercitum{que} traducito; siquis

hujusce Jussionis ergo adversum

ierit, feceritve, adjudicatus

esto hostis</EM> P: R. <EM>ac si contra Patriam armaverit,

Sacros{que} Penatos e

penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus.</EM></P>

<BR>

205

<EM>NE</EM> Consulto ultra hos fines

Armae proferre

liceat nemini.

<BR>

<BR>S. P. Q. R.<BR>

<P><EM>And upon the other side of the

Pillar, the

following

Inscription;</EM> Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator,

Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu, &amp; adagio, Jactae alcae,

Celebratum.</P>

<P>Flumini huic stabilem imponere

trajectum, Ethnica diu vetuit

pavida Superstitio,

Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio.</P>

<BR>

<BR>Innocent: X<SUP>o</SUP> Summo Pont:

<BR>Card: D: Legato 1654.

<BR>

<P><EM>Furli;</EM> in Latine

<EM>Forum Livii,</EM> where there

is

litle

thing considerable except the Market Place.</P>

<P><EM>Faenza;</EM> is

divided

in two by the River

<EM>Lamone,</EM> over which stands

a goodly Bridge that Joynes

the two parts

of the Town together, it is

called

in Latine

<EM>Faventia,</EM> and the

People <EM>Faventini.</EM></P>

<P>

206

The whole way from <EM>Ancona</EM> to

<EM>Bolognia</EM>

is

Plain and Smooth, and the Countrey

on all sides

very Rich and Fertile, but especially

near to <EM>Bolognia,</EM> (which

deservedly

is

called

<EM>la Crassa</EM>) where the whole

Countrey,

on everie

s<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>de of the

high way, looks

like Gardens,

being

Hedged

and closed

in on all sides,

and Planted

with <EM>Olive</EM> and while <EM>Mulberry</EM>

Trees,

the Leaves

whereof <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erve

to the <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eeding

of Silk Wormes,

and at the Roots

of which the Vines

being

Planted,

run up and spread themselves thorow

all the Branches

of the Trees,

and load them

with Grapes.

The distance betwixt the Ranges

of Trees

is

Sowen

sometimes

with Wheat, or other usefull

Grain, or Kitchin

Herbs

and Roots,

Nor is

there wanting

here abundance of the Choisest

Fruits

that <EM>Italy</EM> affoords.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Bolognia;</EM> is

the second Town of the Ecclesiastick

State, sweetly

situated

in a large Plain, near to some Hills

at the one side. The City is

near two Miles

in length and one in breadth, and about 5

Miles

in Compass. The Inhabitants

are

207

not esteemed

to be under 80 Thousand in number, amongst which it

is

thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen,

whereof many have the Titles

of Count and Marques.

There is

a famous University &amp;

many fine Colledges

worthie

to be seen:

As also many fine Churches

&amp; Religious Houses.

The Archdean of the Cathedral of St.

<EM>Peters,</EM>

has

the Priviledge

of making

Doctors,

above others. In the Church of <EM>Corpus Christi,</EM> may be

seen

the intire

Body of St. <EM>Katharine</EM> of <EM>Vigri,</EM> a Religious

Woman of the Order of St. <EM>Clare,</EM> that

Died

at <EM>Bolognia,</EM> in the Year 1463. She

sits

in a Chair, with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face

seems

to be bent and streacht, her Eyes

open, her Hands

and Feet

bare: In one Hand She holds

a Crucifix, the other is

placed

upon a Pillow. They use in the presence of a great deal of

Companie

to paire

her Nails

every Month, and to cut her Hair once a Year, after they are

grown.

In the <EM>Iacobins</EM>

Church is

keept

the Head of St. <EM>Dominick</EM> in a Rich Tabernacle, and

his Body in a Curious

208

Tomb of white Marble cut in severall

figures

of <EM>Base relieve;</EM> In the

<EM>Choire</EM>

may be seen

the Histories

of the New and Old Testament, with

wonderfull

Artifice represented

in mosaick

of of Wood. There is

also to be seen

here, a rare Peece

of Painting,

of the Innocents

made

by <EM>Guido Reni;</EM> all the

parts

of this Convent are worthie

the taking

notice of, the

Cloisters,

the <EM>Dormitories</EM>

of above 150 Religious, the Refictory

Painted

by great Masters,

the Apothecaries

Shop, and the Bibliotheck, and the Cellar which

is

extraordinarly

Big.

</P>

<P>

There be many fine Palaces

worthie

the seeing,

and very well Ornamented

within, but especially

the <EM>Popes</EM>

own Palace, where the

Legat

resides,

and in it you must take particular care to see

<EM>Aldrovandi's</EM>

Studie,

and Collection of Curiosities,

which are keept

in this Palace, and commonly

intrusted

to the Legats

Physitian.

There is

likeways

to be seen

in the Back Court <EM>Aldrovandi's</EM> Garden, in which there

are some Curious Plants.

In the Study you will see a great

Herball,

209

in water Colours,

but without any description, as also a whole press full of

Manuscripts,

written

all with his own Hand.

</P>

<P>

There are severall

Towres

in the Town, but especially

that of <EM>Degli Pisanelli,</EM>

which is

one of the highest

I remember to have ever seen;

it stands

about the middle of the Town, and near by it there

is

an

other which is

not finished,

and the reason they give for it

is

very apparent, that the Builders

mistook

the perpendicular; when one stands

near to it, it is

so very crooked

that it appears

to be just a falling.

I had

the Curiositie

to go as high in the other Towre

as I could, and rather because I thought I might more

easily

discover the situation of

the Town, it's avenues,

and the Country about, but I had

much Reason to repent me: The ladders

for the most part being

old and rotten,

so that I was

in continuall

apprehension of falling,

and one slip would have done

my turne

as well as a hundred. I shall advise you rather to take the

paines

to see a Convent,

210

a little without the Town, toward the

Hills,

called

St. <EM>Michaele

in Bosco,</EM> from whence you will have a most

Delicate Prospect of the Town

and Country about. The Town

appears

in the form of a Ship, and the Towre

<EM>Deglipisanelli,</EM> may be the maine Mast of it. This

Convent

is

one of the most Glorious in <EM>Italy;</EM> the Religious are

of the Order <EM>di Monte Olivetto,</EM> there are many other

things

in the Town worthie

the taking

notice of, which for brevities

sake I omit.

</P>

<P>You must not forget to see the Silk-Work, which

is

a most Curious contrivance;

it is

three or four Storie

high, in the Highest

Storie

there are Innumerable Pirns

of Silk, which are all moved

by the generall

Motion that the Water

gives

to some Wheeles

below, &amp; there they receive the first Twist; in the

Storie

next to that, they receive the second;

&amp; in the lowermost Storie

the last: which brings

it to that form of raw Silk that we

commonly

see sold.</P>

<P>

This Place above all others in <EM>Italy,</EM>

211

or in the World, is

famous for excellent

Soap-Balls,

of which you will do well to provide your self

abundantly;

they will keep in their perfection above 20

Years:

You may have them

of severall

Sizes,

bigger

or lesser as you please. It is

likeways

famous for Sassadges, which are the best

cetainly

in tke World: I have seen

of them

of 5 Crownes

the Peece.

</P>

<P>

There is

good Herbarising towards

the Hills,

if your leisure can permit you; you may take a Guide along

with you. Upon these Hills,

you will likeways

find that famous Stone called

<EM>Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis,</EM> of which

<EM>Fortunatus

Lic<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>t<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s</EM>

hath

written

a particular Book. It is

very hard and Flintie

like, but more glistering;

when it is

calcined

48 hours

in a reverberatory Fire &amp; then set to

cooll:

If you expose it a little to the light and free Air, and on

the sudden bring it to the

dark, it shines

for a little while as if it were

a Red burning

Coale,

but there is

a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that

growes

upon

212

the Top of it, whilst it is

a Calcineing, which

is

most effectuall

for the shining,

and which if it by lost

by any Accident, the rest will not be much worth, and for

saving

of this they use ordinarly

to fix the Stone in Wax in the bottom of a Box, &amp; so sell

them

to Strangers,

but this way does

not secure them,

to my certain Experience. The best way

is

to bring the Stone uncalcined

and prepare it at home. I would have you to see

an

Apothecarie,

who is

a great Virtuoso

especiallie

in Plants.

He is

called

<EM>Jacomo

Zanoni speciale

da san Biaggio custode de simplici in

Bolognia;</EM> I believe he

has

Published

something of Plants

by this time, for he shewed

me a Number of Brass cutts,

which were

allreadie

Graven,

and told

me the intention he

had

as soon as he could get the rest

perfected,

to cause print them.

If they may be had,

I intreat you to procure me

one of them;

you will do well to see his Garden, which

is

very Curious. And the best way to

ingage

all such Men

as he is,

is

to have allways

a Parcell

of rare

213

Seeds

with you, and to give them

some, by which means

you will find them

readie

to give you whatever they can spare, in like manner.

</P>

<P>I shall advise you to Visit the

Booksellers

Shops,

concerning

which I must give you this generall

advice, for finding

out <EM>Botanick</EM>

Books,

that you take paines

to look them

all over your self; for many times

the Book-sellers

do not know their names.

You will find here <EM>Panacea ex herbis quae a Sanctis

denominantur</EM> Item

<EM>Historia &amp; Icones

Capsicorum Bartholomaei

Ambrosini in</EM> 80. <EM>Bononiae</EM>

1630. also <EM>Hyacinthi Ambrosini

hortus Studiosorum &amp; Novarum

Plantarum hactenus non S<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ulptarum

Historia</EM> in 40. <EM>Bononiae</EM> 1657. But above all I

must intreat you to buy me

<EM>Aldrovandus</EM>'s works,

which ate 13 or 14 Tomes

in <EM>Folio;</EM> you may buy them

in Sheets,

and have them

packt

up in your own things

for <EM>Venice,</EM> where you will not fail to meet with

frequent Occasions

of sending

them

for <EM>London.</EM> I believe they will not cost

above 18 or 20

Crowns.

and if they do I shall be readie

to allow it.</P>

<P>

214

It will not be a miss here, if you think fit, to go by Land to

<EM>Modena, Parma</EM> and <EM>Piatzena</EM> and

returne

by the River <EM>Po</EM> to <EM>Ferrara:</EM> But because I

had

not the Fortune to see them

my self, I shall not say any thing of

them,

but returne

to <EM>Ferrara,</EM> which is

not above half a Days

Journie,

or thereabouts,

from <EM>Bolognia.</EM>

</P>

<P><EM>Ferrara,</EM> is

situated

in a large Plain about half a mile distance from the

<EM>Po.</EM> It belongs

to the Ecclesiastick

State, and is

governed

by the <EM>Popes</EM>

Legate. The Streets,

Houses

and Places,

are very handsome &amp; fine, as also the

Churches

&amp; Religious Houses.

In the Monasterie

of S. <EM>Bennet,</EM> you may see the Sepulchre &amp; Epitaph

of the famous Poet <EM>Ariosto.</EM> It

hath

a verie

strong and well contrived

<EM>Cittadale.</EM></P>

<P>

From hence you go to <EM>Venice</EM> by

Water, that

is

in an

open Boat, by a <EM>Canale</EM>

near to the side of the <EM>Po,</EM> where ye

imbarke

in a bigger

Vessel, which goes

constantly

twice a Week to <EM>Venice.</EM> If the Wind be favourable,

you will easily

accomplish the Voyage in 10

or 12 houres

215

time, but if otherways, you may be

longer,

and therefore you will do well to make Provision of

Victuals,

to take along with you. When you Arrive at <EM>Venice,</EM> it

will be needfull

to Lodge in a convenient

Place of the Town, and for that end, you will do well to

provide your self of a Recommendation to the English

Consul; from <EM>Rome</EM> or

from <EM>Bolognia. Giles Jones</EM>

was

Consul in my time, and entertained

Lodgers

himself, he was

a verie

honest Man, and did

faithfullie

send my things

to <EM>London,</EM> according

to the address I gave

him.

When you are setled

in a Lodging,

It will be time to take a View of the Town, for the

doing

of which and considering

it well, 3 or 4 Weeks

is

little enough. Nothing in Nature can appear more prodigious

than to see a Vast big Town seated

in the middle of the Sea;

everie

House whereof at one side or another

is

touched

by the Water, and the nearest

Land being

4 or 5 Miles

distance. It was

built

at first upon the little Island

of <EM>Rialto</EM> in the Year 421, perhaps

later

by the Inhabitants

of the

216

firm Land that were

chaced

from their own homes

by <EM>Attila</EM> King of the <EM>Huns,</EM>

&amp; forced

to make choice of this place for their safety; since that time

they have built

upon 70 or 71 Isles more, which are

joyned

together by upwards

of 450 Bridges.

The Town is

about 8 Miles

in compass. There are but few Streets

built

on both sides,

except some open places.

The most part of the Streets

have a Canale

or Ditch in the middle, by which the Gondols pass, which

is

a great commoditie,

for there is

scarce a House in the Town, but one may be

carried

this way, either close to it or within a few

steps

of it. The Canals

are different in breadth, some more some less large, the

narrowest

is

broad enough for one Gondole to go by another; It

is

remarkable, that the Water Ebbs

and Flowes

here 4 or 5 foot, which is

not observed

in the <EM>Adriatick</EM>

farther down towards

<EM>Naples,</EM> nor in any other

Port of the <EM>Mediterranian</EM>

Sea; The Gondals are believed

to be above fourteen or fifteen thousand in Number; they are

small tight Boats

much cleaner &amp;

217

finer

than Oares

upon the <EM>Thames,</EM> having

a prettie

Tilt over the seat where the Passingers

sit, &amp; will be able to accommodat 5 or 6

Persons:

It is

usual for Gentlemen

or Persons

of Qualitie

to have their own Gondols, and those

Richer

than the ordinary; some are

rowed

by one, some by two, and it is

somewhat extraordinary that the Rower

does

not sit within the Boat, but stands

upon one side of it, and lookes

the same way that he rows.

At the turning

of any Corner, after they come within

such a distance of it, they are

obliged

to cry, to give notice to the Gondols on the otherside

whom

they cannot see, and he that cryes

first hath

this advantage, that he

turnes

close by the corner, and the others are

obliged

to give him

way and take it larger:

And I assure you it is

no small wonder to me that there

being

so many corners

to tur<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>e,

and so continuall

and frequent intercourse of Gondols

going

some the one way, and some the other; and in the dark as well

in the Day: there should be so few

Accidents

of running

one another down, especiallie,

218

considering

with what swiftness

thay

go. The largest

Canale,

called

<EM>Canale

grande,</EM>

is

about 13 or 14 hundred

paces

in length; &amp; fourtie

in breadth, and divides

the Town as it were

in two. The Bridge of the <EM>Rivo alto,</EM> or as it

is

commonlie

pronounced

<EM>Rialto,</EM> is

one of the most magnificent Structures

in the Citie:

it consists

but of one <EM>Arch,</EM> &amp; yet

is

said

to have cost above 250 thousand

Duckets;

at the one end of the Bridge, there are three large

Streets

divided

by 2 rowes

of Houses,

which are so many Merchant shops.

This serves

for the Exchange, where the

Merchants

meet about Noon to do their affairs.

</P>

<P>

There are so manie

things

considerable in this Place that it

is

difficult to comprehend

them

in this short Narration, and therefore I shall

onlie

name a few of them,

and leaue

the rest to your particular inquirie,

which will not be hard for you to make, when you are upon the

place. Be pleased

then first to take notice among the

Churches

of that of St <EM>Mark,</EM> which

properlie,

is

onlie

the Dukes

Chapel belonging

219

to the Palace of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> whose

Bodie

being

brought

from <EM>Alexandria</EM> is

preserved

here; The Church has

24 <EM>Chanoines</EM>

belonging

to it under one Head, called

<EM>Primicero.</EM> He is

commonlie

chosen

by the Doge, and wears

the Miter and other

Ornaments

of a Bishop, &amp; uses

to give his Benediction to the People as

Bishops

do. The inside of the Church is

of Marble of diverse sorts,

and all verie

fine, with above 40 Marble Pillars;

It is

paved

with Porphire, Serpentine &amp;c. in

Mosaick

Work; Upon the Top of the great Altar, there

is

a Globe enriched

with a great number of Pearles

and other Jewels

of price; The Roof of the Church

consists

of 5 <EM>Cupula's</EM> covered

with lead; It hath

5 Doors

of Brass, and over the great entrie

on the outside there stands

four Delicat Horses,

equal in bigness to the Natural, of Brass

Guilded,

which at first were

placed

upon the Triumphal <EM>Arch</EM> of <EM>Nero,</EM> after he

subdued

the <EM>Parths,</EM> but were

afterward carried

to <EM>Constantinople,</EM>

when the Seat of the <EM>Empire</EM>

was

removed

from <EM>Rome</EM> and at last brought

220

hither by the <EM>Venetians</EM>

when they took

<EM>Constantinople. 2ly.</EM> That which

is

most worthie

of the seeing

(it may be in all the World) is

the Treasure of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> where amongst other

things

you will see 12 Royal Crowns

&amp; 12 <EM>Breast</EM> Plates

of Gold, ful

of Pearles

and Jewels;

taken

as they say at <EM>Constantinople;</EM> And the

Tradition

is,

that they were

the Ornaments

of the 12 Maids

of Honour that waited

upon St. <EM>Helena</EM> Mother to <EM>Constantine</EM> the

<EM>Emperour;</EM>

several Rubies

weighing

8 Ounces

a Peece,

and a Saphir that weighs

ten Ounces;

two Unicorns

Horns;

severall

Vessels

of Precious Stones&#0183;

as Agat,

J<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>spir

&amp;c; one of Emerauld which a King of <EM>Persia</EM>

presented

the Senat

with. One of one single Turkis; another capable to hold a

<EM>Scots</EM>

Quart of one single Granat; The Tiar or Bonnet wherewith the

Duke is

Crowned,

is

Garnished

with Jewels

of inestimable price; There is

a vast deal of other Riches,

which I cannot particularly

remember; There is

likewa<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s to

be seen

the Picture of the blessed

Virgin done

by St <EM>Luke.</EM> The Acts

of the Apostles

221

writen

in golden Letters

by the hand of St <EM>John Chrysostome,

Patriarch</EM> of <EM>Con<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>tantinople.</EM>

It will be worth your while to go to the Top of the Steeple,

from whence you will have a delicat Prospect of the whole City

and Neighbouring

Islands,

of a part of <EM>Lumbardie,</EM>

of the severall

Mouths

of the River <EM>Po,</EM> The Hills

of <EM><FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>tria;</EM>

&amp; the Sea about&#0183; <EM>3ly:</EM> The Palace of St

<EM>Mark,</EM> whereof the <EM>Arches,</EM>

Pillars,

Halls

and Chambers

are all most Statelie,

especialy

the great Halls,

which are Painted

by the greatest

Masters

of their time; for the fetter understanding

of which, it will be fitt,

that you get a Printed

Inventorie

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>f all the

particular Ornaments

of this Palace.

</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly,</EM> The <EM>Piazza</EM> of St <EM>Marco,</EM> which

is

one of the Largest

and finest

that can be <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

in any Town in <EM>Italy;</EM> being

com<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>sed

with most Stately and regular Buildings&#0183;

with large <EM>Arches</EM>

and <EM>Portic<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>es</EM>

to walk in, in the time of Heat or Rain&#0183; with all

sorts

of Merchandise and Trades.

This Place is

the most diverticeing in

all <EM>Venice,</EM> for here you may

222

see People of many Nations

with different Habits.

At that end of that place which

lookes

to the Sea, there stands

two Marble Pillars,

each of them

of them

one Peece,

of a great hight and bigness, at a reasonable Distance one

from another. Upon the Top of the one

is

placed

a flying

Lion guilded,

which is

the Armes

of <EM>Venice,</EM> and the Symbole

of St <EM>Mark;</EM> Upon the Top of the other the Statue of

St <EM>Theodore</EM> gilded.

Betwixt these Pillars,

Justice is

usuallie

done

upon Male-factors.

About the middle of the place stands

3 verie

Tall Poles

like unto Ships

Masts,

whereupon the Standards

of the Republick

are displaied

at great Solemnities.

On that side of the place, which

is

opposit

to the Dukes

Palace, stands

the <EM>Mint-House,</EM> a verie

goodlie

Fabrick,

composed

of Stone and Iron, without any Wood at all. <EM>5ly.</EM> The

<EM>Arsenal,</EM> which is

the largest

and best Furnished

in the World; it is

strongly

Walled

about, and the Sea drawn

about it likeways.

There are fifteen or sixteen hundred

Men

constantly

at Work, besides

223

Old Men,

who are not able to work, but intertained

for instructing

the younger.

Here are keept

all sort of <EM>Amunitions</EM> of War both for Sea &amp;

Land, in vast Quantities,

and in that good Order, that I

have heard

some confidentlie

say, <EM>that there were

Workmen

within the</EM> Arsenal,

<EM>that were

able to build a</EM> Gally,

<EM>and reik her out compleatly

in one Hours

time;</EM> which if it be true,

argues

a great deal of sharpness in the

Workmen,

and readiness of the Materials.

</P>

<P>

There are severall

lesser Islands

at some distance from the Town,

worthie

to be seen,

and particularlie,

1. <EM>Murain</EM> about a Mile

Northward from the City. It is

well built

and many good Houses

in it; It is

in this Island, that all those famous

Crystall

Glasses

so much talked

of, and so much sought

after throughout the World, are

made.

It is

observed

here, that the Glass-works

succeed much better on the one side of the Street than on the

other. They have likeways

a great Art of whitneing Wax, which

is

observed

to succeed better in this Island

224

than any other place in or about the City. There are abundance

of Oysters

likeways

in this Island; they ordinarly

keep them

in Baskets

near the Shoare,

to have them

in readiness when they are called

for, but in my opinion they are neither so pleasant,

no<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> so

wholesome as at <EM>Lighorn</EM> and other

places,

especiallie

being

eaten

raw, for I have often found the

eating

of them

so, to give a verie

troublesome Flux of the Belly to

severall

Persons.

<EM>2ly.</EM> The Isle of St <EM>Helena,</EM> where there

is

a verie

statelie

Monasterie

&amp; Church, with <EM>Monks</EM>

of the <EM>Order</EM> of <EM>Mont

Olivet.</EM> In this Church

is

keept

the Body of the <EM>Emperess</EM> St <EM>Helena.</EM> This

Isle lyes

to the Eastward of the Town, and about two

Miles

further the same way, stand the two

Forts

<EM>del L<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>do</EM>

and <EM>Casielnovo,</EM>

which both defend them

selves

mutuallie,

and secure the entrie

to the City from Enemies

in time of War&#0183; <EM>3ly. Malamocco,</EM> where all

Ships

and Vessels

of anie

considerable Burden do Arrive because of the deepness of the

<EM>Harbour. 4ly.</EM> The

Isle of St. <EM>George,</EM> lying

225

just before the place of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> at half a

Miles

distance, where there is

an

<EM>Abbace</EM> of the <EM>Order</EM> of St.

<EM>Benedict,</EM> with a most Stately and Glorious Church,

together with a Garden and fair

Walks,

which is

thought no small thing in that Place.

</P>

<P>Altho'

a Traveller cannot be alltogether

sure of his times,

there being

so many Contingencies

that may force him

either to Arive

too soon or too late; yet it were

to be wished

that a Man might happen to be at <EM>Venice</EM> in the time of

<EM>Carnoval,</EM> because of the <EM>Opera</EM>'s and fine

shows

that are to be seen,

and the Extraordinarie

Musick

at that time. In the <EM>Summer</EM>

time the great Divertisement is

to go in Gondole upon the great

Canale,

where towards

the Evening, one may see Five, or six hundred Gondols

touring

up and down, full of Ladies

and Gentlemen,

&amp; severalls

of them

with Musick,

both Vocal and Instrumental; which

is

one of the greatest

<EM>Gusto's</EM> imaginable.</P>

<P>

You cannot miss to meet with a great many

Curiosities

here, both Natural and

226

<EM>Artif<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cial,</EM>

because of the great resort that

Strangers

have to this Place, especiallie

from the <EM>Levant;</EM> you will find

<EM>Medals,

Intaleo's, Chamaeo's</EM> &amp;c. amongst the

Goldsmiths.

I have seen

severall

Curiosities

to sell in the place of St. <EM>Mark,</EM> and sometime within

the Court of the Palace, and

in many other corners

throughout the City. You

may meet with maby

Curiosities

of <EM>Glass,</EM> that are both

usefull

and delightfull.

It will be worth your while to Visit the

Book-sellers

Shops,

for besides

many Curious Books,

that you may light upon here, and

particularly

of <EM>Botany;</EM> you may likeways

find verie

many Books,

that are prohibited

in many other places

of <EM>Italy.</EM> Be pleased

to inquire diligently

for a thin 40. called

<EM>Trattato de simplici Pietre. &amp; pesci marini

che

nascono del lito di Venetia di Antonio Donati Farmacopeo

all'insegn<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

di St. Liberale

in Venetia</EM> 1631. Printed

by <EM>Pietro Maria Bertano. Donati</EM>

himself

was

Dead before I came

thither, but I found out his Brother, a Man of the

227

same Profession and living

at the same place, but nothing knowing

in <EM>Simples.</EM>

After I had

told

him

the respect I had

for his Brothers

<EM>Memorie,</EM>

and my regrate for the loss of so

worthie

a person; he was

pleased

to show me a great many <EM>Brass-Plates</EM>

of so many <EM>Plants</EM>

not yet described,

together with their description

done

by his Brother; I am

confident were

they Published,

they would make a bigger

Volume than the first. They

were

in Confusion when I

saw

them,

but I put them

in Order and prayed

him

to keep them

so, untill

he should find the opportunitie

of printing

them,

which I found him

willing to do at his own Expense, nor to trust it with

an

other, least his Brothers

name should have been

stolen

from it. If it be not as yet printed,

you may see what you can do, either to purchase the Manuscript

and <EM>Plates,</EM>

or promise the printing

of it.

</P>

<P>There are many Virtuosi

in the City, that have great Collections

of fine things

which you may be pleased

to inquire after and see.</P>

<P>

228

From <EM>Venice</EM> you have twentie

five Miles

to <EM>Padua,</EM> whereof fo<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>r

by <EM>Berg</EM> to the <EM>Terra ferma,</EM> and the rest you

go by Boat, drawen

with Horses

by the River <EM>Brent,</EM> which

is

a most pleasant and soft running

River, having

plain, Fertile &amp; most delicious

Fields

on either side, full of Villages

&amp; pleasure-Houses,

to which the Inhabitants

of <EM>Venice</EM> use to resort in the <EM>Summer-Time.</EM>

</P>

<P>The River runs

not all of a Levell,

&amp; therefore there are three or four

<EM>Locks</EM>

or <EM>Sluces,</EM>

by means

whereof, at severall

places

the <EM>River</EM> is

made

portable; which otherways it would not be. There

is

such an

other <EM>Lock</EM> upon the <EM>Canale</EM>

of <EM>Briar,</EM> near to <EM>Montargis</EM> in

<EM>France.</EM> You will more easilie

understand the manner of them

by seeing

them,

than by any description I

can make of them.</P>

<P>

<EM>Padua,</EM> in Latine

<EM>Pattavium.</EM> Is

a very Ancient and Large Town; famous over the World, for

its

<EM>Vniversity;</EM>

whence it is

called

<EM>Padua la dotta.</EM> There are many

things

considerable in the Town fit to be

seen

and take notice of. As 1. The

229

Churches

as namely that of S. <EM>Sophia,</EM> that of

<EM>Justino,</EM> which is

all Pavemented with white &amp; red Marble; there

is

an

<EM>Abbacy</EM> joyning

to it of the <EM>Order</EM> of St. <EM>Benedict;</EM> the

Reformation of which Order did

begin first here. It was

Anciently

the Temple of <EM>Concord.</EM> The place before the Church

is

very large &amp; spacious. They say ten Thousand

Men

might be drawn

up within it. The Church of St. <EM>Antonia de Lisbon,</EM>

is

notably

designed,

and hath

many Rich things

belonging

to it; many Relique's, but amongst others the most

considerable is

the Body of St. <EM>Antonia,</EM>

commonly

called

of <EM>Padua,</EM> because he Died

and was

in<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>erred

here. There is

great a Devotion payed

to this <EM>Sainct,</EM>

and a great concourse

dayly

to the place, as well of the Inhabitants

of the Town, as of <EM>Pilgrims</EM>

that come from other places.

They use to kiss the <EM>Marble-Stone</EM> that

covers

his Sepulchre; and they say

it smels

of Musk. <EM>2ly.</EM> The palace of Justice, which

is

most stately. The Stairs

are all of <EM>Marble</EM> covered

with <EM>Lead</EM> without the support of

any Pillar. The great

<EM>Hall</EM> is

256 foot in

230

length, and 86 foot in breadth, and very well

painted,

and at the end of it, that Statue of <EM>Titus Livius,</EM>

whose Tomb is

likeways

to be seen

in the Town. <EM>3ly.</EM> The Schooles,

which is

a very stately Fabrick,

being

a 4 square court, where you will see a great many of the

Statues

or <EM>Busta</EM>'s, Names

&amp; Arms

of so many Consuls,

that have been

of the several Nations

that compose the <EM>Vniversity;</EM>

the <EM>Scholars</EM>

here have large <EM>Priviledges,</EM>

and many times

abuse them,

and become very insolent, insomuch that they have

been

sometimes

known

to threaten

the <EM>Podesta</EM> himself or

Governour

of the Town; they have, likeways

a beastly custome

of carrieing

Arms

in the Night, insomuch that it is

never safe to be abroad after it hegins to be Dark, for many

are this way unhappity

Murthered

without any Offence given

or taken,

but only by wantoness, or rather

Wickedness of the Scholars.

<EM>4ly.</EM> The Physical Garden, which

is

exceedingly

fine, not so much for the number as rareness of the

<EM>Plants.</EM>

You may easily

make your addrefs to the Professor that

231

keeps

the Garden who in my time was

the <EM>Excellentissimus Signeur Tore,</EM> but the Gardener

will be sufficient to do your turn, for in

giving

him

a small peece

of Mony,

you will command both <EM>Seeds,

Plants,</EM>

and all that he hath.

We have a very worthie

Gentleman of our Countrie,

called

Doctor <EM>Cadenhead;</EM> in my time he

was

Publick

Professor of <EM>Logick

nel Bo,</EM> which is

the Publick

<EM>Schooles.</EM>

He is

a most courteous and obliging

Gentleman, and will be ready to do you all the

kindness's Imaginable.

<EM>5ly.</EM> You may see the Hospitals

for sick Folk, and many other things,

which for Brevities

sake I omit, only I intreat you be at the

paines

to Visit the Book-sellers

Shops;

and if there be any new thing in

Physick,

since the 62 or 63 Year of God, I intreat you to bring

them

along with you for me, especialy

if there be any thing of <EM>Rhodius,</EM> who

hath

promised

us his commenta<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s

upon <EM>Cornelius Celsus</EM> long ago.

</P>

<P>

If you please, you may make a little Journey to the

<EM>Euganean</EM> Hils,

which are not far from <EM>P<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>dua.</EM>

There is

very good

232

Herborsing upon them.

It will be worth your while, likeways

to see <EM>Abbano,</EM> a Village 3. or 4

Miles

distant from <EM>Padua;</EM> famous for

its

Natural Baths.

At the end of the Village there

is

a little rising

or <EM>know;</EM> upon the Top of which there are a great many

Springs

of hot Water, some where of are

scalding

hot. The Water

is

convoyed

by little Conduits

to several Houses

about, where Baths

are keept

for sick People, but the greater

part of it is

convoyed

the other way by a trough, where, at the distance of a Musket

shot, it moves

a Milne. The water it self is

whitish, having

a white slimy substance in

it, which it deposes

every where, where it runs,

and which in process of time becomes

as hard as a Stone; in so much that the Miln-Wheel, and all

the Wood that is

toucht

by it, becomes

crusted

as it were

with <EM>Marble;</EM> and if it be not

broken

of timeously,

it stops

the Motion of the Wheel just as

<EM>I<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eicles</EM>

use to do with us. The Country about

<EM>Padua</EM>

is

very Plain and exceedingly

Fertile, insomuch that they

use to say, <EM>B<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lognia

233

la grassa, ma Padua la passa;</EM> yet the Wine

is

not good, but a red small Claret-Wine such as they use at

<EM>Venice</EM> for ordinarie

drink. When you ha<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

past some time at <EM>Padua,</EM> and

satisfied

your self, of all that is

to be seen

and known

there, it will be time to set <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>orward

for <EM>Milan.</EM>

</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Padua to Verona.</H4>

<EM>&nbsp;</EM>

<LI>Mil<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s</LI>

<EM>Vicenza </EM>

<LI>17</LI>

<EM>Montebello </EM>

<LI>12</LI>

<EM>Scaldere </EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Veron<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>12</LI>

</UL>

<P>

In going

from <EM>Padua</EM> to <EM>Vicenza,</EM> you will do well to

turne

a little out of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

way to see a place called

<EM>Gus<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>so,</EM>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

is

a House of Pleasure belonging

to a <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>r<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ticular

Person, where, besides

many <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>riosities,

of Gardens

&amp;c. there is

p<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ticular

wayes

of conveying

the Win<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> the

<EM>Caves</EM>

below to the upper <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

234

which makes

a Delicat <EM>Fresco</EM> in the

greatest

heats

of Summer. It stands

at the foot of a very great <EM>Mountain,</EM> under which are

the vastest

and biggest

<EM>Caves</EM>

I ever saw;

but seem not to be Natural, but rather

Quarries,

out of which the greatest

part of the Stone that <EM>Vicenza</EM>

has

been

built

with, has

been

taken.

In one place of these <EM>Caves,</EM>

there is

a little Well made

by the Water that drops

from the Top of the <EM>Cave,</EM> which

petrifies

any Wood, Straw &amp;c. that lyeth

any time in it, and yet the Water

keeps

clear it self, without

congealing.

Near to the City of <EM>Vicenza,</EM>

upon your left hand, you wil

see a delicat Peece

of <EM>Architecture,</EM> made

by the famous <EM>Architect Vinogli,</EM> which

is

likeways

designed

in his Book; It is

only a House of Pleasure, and stands

upon a considerable hight from the City,

discovering

all the Country round about.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Vicenza</EM> is

a good large Town, having

many fine Churches

and Palaces,

with a large place for Tilting

and other Exercises:

there is

likeways

in it a Noble Theatre built

by <EM>Vinogly:</EM> the Country about

is

exceedingly

235

Fertile, and abounds

with all sort of good Fruit, and

is

therefore called

the <EM>Garden of Venice.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>Verona</EM> is

an

easie

days

Journey from <EM>Vicenza;</EM> It

is

an

Ancient City, large and well built,

having

many stately Palaces,

Churches

&amp;c. &amp; an

old <EM>Amphitheatre,</EM> yet more

intire

than any other in <EM>Italy.</EM> The Town

is

divided

in two by the River <EM>Adice,</EM>

it is

wel

Fortified,

having

13 <EM>Royal

Bastions,</EM>

and three <EM>Castles;</EM>

the two parts

of the Town, are conjoyned

by 4 large <EM>Stone Bridges.</EM>

There is

excellent Herborizing upon the Hils

near to the City, but especially

upon the <EM>Monte baldo,</EM> which

is

about 20 Miles

distant from this City, and which

is

described

at great length by <EM>Joannes

Pona,</EM> whose Book I suppose you have

seen.

The Palace <EM>del Conte Justi,</EM>

is

worthie

the seeing,

together with the

Gardens

and <EM>Grotta's.</EM> Amongst

the rest, there is

one of a Reasonable

Capacitie

built

with that Artifice, that four Persons

being

placed

in the four Corners,

may speake

each of them

to his Neighbour in the opposit

Corner,

236

and yet not be heard

by those that stand in the middle between

them.

In the Palace of the

<EM>Signeur Conte Gregorio Bevila<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>&#0183;</EM>

there is

a Gallerie,

in which you may see a great many fine

Pictures,

Statues,

<EM>Medals,</EM>

and other Rarities.

</P>

<P><FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rom

<EM>Verona</EM> you pass by <EM>la

peso<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eira,</EM>

which is

a strong Fort, upon the River <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

issues

from the <EM>lago di Garda:</EM> from

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> you go to

<EM>Dissanzano,</EM> which tho'

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> big Town, but

rather a Village, I look upon it as one of the

pleasantest

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> in

<EM>Italy;</EM> being

upon the side of <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>lago di Garda,</EM> a Lake not so

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> as long, for

in length it reaches

to <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Rhetici.</EM> The Country about

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> and Fertile,

and the Lake it <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ounds with

all sorts

of Excellent <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

such as <EM>Pykes,

Pearches,</EM>

red and <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

Trouts

&amp;c. and of all there are <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

very big. In my time there was

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>rench-man,

that keept

a very good <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>,

where we had

excellent Fare <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

of fish and Flesh, and the best Wine

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> the whole

State of <EM>Venice,</EM> and all at

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> Rate.</P>

<P>

237

From <EM>Dissanzano,</EM> you go to

<EM>Bre<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>cia,</EM>

which is

not above half a days

Journey distant from <EM>Dissanzano.</EM> It

is

a large and very strong Town, especialy

the Castle thereof

placed

upon a Hill, that Commands

the Town. It is

famous for making

of <EM>Guns,</EM>

and <EM>Pistols,</EM>

especialy

the <EM>Cannons</EM>

of them,

which are the best I ever saw

by farr.

If you have the opportunity

of carriage, it would be worth your while to make Provision

for your self here. If you resolve to make your return, not to

<EM>Lions</EM>

but, throw <EM>Switzer-Land</EM> and <EM>Germany,</EM> down

the <EM>Rhen,</EM> &amp; so throw <EM>Flanders</EM> and

<EM>Holland,</EM> then it will be

fitt

when you are at <EM>Bol<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>gnia</EM>

to go up the <EM>Po,</EM> by <EM>Modena, Parma,

Piazz<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>nza,</EM>

and so to <EM>Millan,</EM>

and from thence to <EM>Turrin,</EM> and then back to

<EM>Millan</EM>

again, and so returne

by the other way of <EM>Bergamo, Brescia, Dissanzano, Verona,

Vicenza</EM> and <EM>Padua</EM> to <EM>Venice,</EM> by which

means

you will not only see the sweetest

and most Fertile places

of <EM>Lumbardie,</EM>

but also have the commoditie

of bringing

what ever you find in all that

238

way to <EM>Venice,</EM> from whence it may

easily

be Convoyed

into <EM>England.</EM> From <EM>Bres<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>i<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT></EM>

to <EM>Bergamo</EM> you have a dayes

Journey: You must Dine at a Place

called

<EM>Pallazolo;</EM> It is

a little inconsiderable Town. I

remember we

had

a Letter of Recommendation

from the Duke of <EM>Norfolks

Major-Domo</EM> at

<EM>Padua,</EM> to a Gentleman in this place, who

was

exceedingly

Civil to us &amp; sent

us a Present of excellent Wine, &amp; (which

was

of farr

greater

importance to us) gave

us the assurance of the peaceableness

of the Countrey

&amp; security of Travelling,

which sometimes

is

not without the danger of being

robbed;

it being

near the Frontiers

of the state of <EM>Millan:</EM>

&amp; in such cases,

it is

usual for Rogues,

when they have done

a Mischief to pape into the next state, where the

Laws

of the other State cannot reach

them.

The project of our recommendation,

was

to have been

conducted

by this Gentleman on our way; if there

had

been

any such need. He willingly

profered

it, but we, upon the assurance he

gave

us did

as willingly

deny to accept it.

</P>

<P>

139

<EM>Bergamo</EM> is

situated

upon the side of a Hil,

Fortifie

with 9 <EM>Bastions</EM>

besides

the <EM>Castle,</EM> which is

extreamly

strong. There is,

as I take it, in the <EM>Dominicans</EM>

a Rare <EM>Bibliotheque,</EM>

Collected

by the great expense of <EM>Alexander Martinengo,</EM> You

will do well here to exchange all your <EM>Venetian</EM> Money

into <EM>Spanish</EM> Money, &amp; such as will pass into the

State of <EM>Millan.</EM>

You have a Days

Journey from hence to <EM>Millan,</EM>

and must Dine at a Place called

<EM>Villa nova:</EM> as soon as ye have

Dined,

you pass the River <EM>Tesin:</EM> And then enter the State of

<EM>Millan.</EM>

</P>

<P>As you enter the State of <EM>Millan,</EM>

you will find some Searchers

or wayters

of the Custom-House, to whom

you must give some small thing to let your Baggage pass, or else

you may be troubled

with them.</P>

<P>

The State of <EM>Millan,</EM>

altho'

but small in extent, is

yet one of the pleasantest

&amp; Fertilest

places

in <EM>Italy.</EM> The Country is

very Plain. The High-ways

for the most part very large and straight,

planted

with <EM>Trees</EM>

and <EM>Hedges,</EM>

on every side,

240

and having

Canales of water, for the most part, on every side; and

Travellers

have this Advantage also to meet with better

<EM>Inns</EM>

and better accommodation here than on any other Road in

<EM>Italy.</EM> The Inhabitants

are not given

to mutiny and Rebellion as

those of <EM>Naples,</EM> but willingly

submit to their Prince. It is

said

that the King of <EM>Spaine</EM>

Governs

the Kingdom of <EM>Sicilie</EM>

with mildness: <EM>Naples</EM> with

subtilitie

and the Dutchie

of <EM>Millan</EM>

with Authoritie.

They say likeways

that the inferior Governours

of <EM>Sicilie,</EM>

only but Gentlie:

Those of <EM>Naples</EM> eat lustilie,

but that in <EM>Millan</EM>

they devoure.

I have observed

throughout all <EM>Italy,</EM> that the

greatest

part of the <EM>Inn-keepers</EM>

and <EM>Taverners</EM>

even in <EM>Rome</EM> it self are

<EM>Milanese:</EM> as also

that the greatest

part of the Masons

that serve all <EM>Italy,</EM> are of this

Countrie:

and it is

a verie

great Mark both of their love to their

Countrie

and loyaltie

to their Prince, that when they are not able to get so much by

staying

at home, as to entertain their Wives

and Children,

and pay Publick

Burdens,

they

241

are contented

to live abroad most part of their

lives,

and returne

that home which they Gaine

abroad; for they never

carrie

their Wives

with them,

nor Children

till they be able to Gaine

for themselves: Onlie

it may be they make them

a Visit sometimes.

The Citie

of <EM>Millan,</EM>

which is

Capital of the Dutchie,

is

one of the stateliest

in <EM>Italy:</EM> it is

near ten Miles

in compass, but a considerable part of it,

especiallie

toward the Walls,

is

Gardens.

The Streets

are large &amp; handsome;

Many statelie

Churches

and Palaces:

But I shall Mark them

a little more particularly

as I have done

in other Towns:

And 1. to begin with the Churches,

It is

said

there are above 230 in the Citie

and Suburbs,

whereof 96 are parochial: 40 Convents

of Religious

Men,

and 50 of Religious Women.

The Cathedral Church called

<EM>il Domo,</EM> is

one of the greatest

and most Glorious in <EM>Italy</EM> except St.

<EM>Peters</EM>

at <EM>Rome.</EM> It is

intirely

built

of white <EM>Marble</EM> within &amp; without, but that which

is

to be pitied

is,

that the design is

<EM>Gothick;</EM>

it is

not yet

242

quite finished;

but they are still at work, and you may guess when they are

like to come to an

end, they haveing

been

up wards

of 200 Years

at work allreadie.

There are above 600 <EM>Marble</EM>

statues

about the

Walls,

everie

one of which cost at least 1000

Crowns,

amongst which the statue of <EM>Adam</EM> and St.

<EM>Bartholomew</EM> are much esteemed,

especiallie

the latter which is

thought to be one of the best in <EM>Europe.</EM> The Pend of

the Church is

supported

by 160 white <EM>Marble</EM> Pillars,

each of them

of that bigness, that scarcelie

can three Men

fathom them.

It is

believed

that they stand not under 10000

Crowns

a peece.

All the rest of the parts

of the Church are correspondent in Magnificenee, only it

appears

to me to be somewhat darker

than need were.

Amongst many other things

that are considerable in this Church

is

the Body of St. <EM>Charles Boromeus</EM> in a

Chappel

under Ground. It

hath

a Lamp burning

before it, and you look down through

an

Iron Tirles from the Church to see it. You may see the Head

and Feet,

but the

243

rest of the Bodie

is

covered

with his pontificall

Habit. There is

a rich Treasure belonging

to the Church, where you will see, amongst other

things&#0183;

a Silver statue of the same St. <EM>Charles</EM> in his

Pontifical Habit, with many

precious Stones

of great Value upon the Myter

thereof. It was

presented

by the Jewellers

and Goldsmiths

of <EM>Millan.</EM>

In the Church of St. <EM>Ambrose,</EM> you may see a Pillar in

the middle of the Church, upon which

stands

the <EM>Brazen Serpent</EM> that

<EM>Moses</EM>

elevated

in the Wilderness. You may likeways

see two statelie

Tombs,

one of the Emperour

<EM>Luis,</EM> and the other of <EM>Pepin</EM> King of

<EM>Italy,</EM> both Sons

of <EM>Charles</EM> the Great. Here also you may see the

Chapel where St. <EM>Augustine</EM>

was

Baptized.

In the Church of St. <EM>Satyre,</EM>

upon the great Altar there is

a Picture of the blessed

Virgin with the Babe <EM>Jesus</EM> in her

Armes,

of which they tell a wonderfull

Story, that it being

placed

upon the Church-Yard-Wall, a certain Gamester

called

<EM>Massario Vigonzonio,</EM> being

mad to have lost

his Money, struck

the little <EM>Jesus</EM> with a

poynard,

244

whereupon immediately

there gusht

out abundance of Blood, after which it

was

placed

upon the great Altar where it is

yet to be seen.

</P>

<P><EM>2ly.</EM> The Palaces;

amongst the rest that of the Governour.</P>

<P><EM>3ly.</EM> The Hospitals;

which are said

to entertain above 9000 poor People all the Year long, at the

expence

of the Publick.

That which is

called

the great Hospital, entertaines

alone more than 4000, and so it may, for it

has

three Score ten Thousand Crowns

of Yearlie

revenue. The <EM>Lazaretto</EM>

is

a kind of Hospital without the Walls,

It is

a large Square court about a Mile in Compass, not unlike the

form of the <EM>Carthusians</EM>

Houses;

that are divided

into so many little appartments.

The chief Design &amp; use of it,

is

in the time of the Plague: at other

times

it stands

emptie,

only some few persons

that have the keeping

of it, remaine

there.</P>

<P>

<EM>4ly.</EM> The places

in the Town; chiefly

the Exchange, where the Merchants

meet; there you will see the statue of St&#0183;

245

<EM>Augustin,</EM> and the place where he

taught

Rhetorick

before his conversion to the Christian Faith.

</P>

<P><EM>5ly.</EM> St. <EM>Ambrose</EM>'s <EM>Bibliotheck,</EM>

where not only these Books

that belonged

to St. <EM>Ambrose</EM> himself, but many other

Books

that have been

presented

since, are kept.</P>

<P>

<EM>6ly. Septalie</EM>'s Galerie.

This <EM>Manfredo

Septali,</EM> is

Son to that famous Physician

<EM>Ludovicus Septalius,</EM> who

hath

written

many things,

&amp; learnedly

in Philosophie

and Medicine. He is

at present one of the <EM>Canons</EM>

of the great Church; And one of the

greatest

Virtuosi

in <EM>Italy.</EM> His Studie

of Books

consists

of 2 or 3 Roomes.

His Galerie

of Curiosities

of three Roomes.

The Curiosities

are both Natural and Artificial, of so great a Number and

Varietie,

that I must not insist upon particulars;

but only refer you to the description

thereof in

Latine

by <EM>Paulus Maria Tersagus,</EM> the Book

is

in 40. <EM>Dertono</EM> 1664, and

bears

the name of <EM>Musaeum Septalianum.</EM> He

hath

also an

other Room or two, full

246

of working

Tooles,

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ome for

turning,

others for

Grinding

of optick

Glasses

of all sorts

and Fashion; and here you will see a great Variety of Musical

Instruments.

Most part of the Booksellers

live near to the Exchange, but their Magasins are in

severall

other places

of the Town; you must be carefull

to see them

all. You will undoubtedly

find some to please, on which perhaps you will not

readily

fall else where.

</P>

<P>You will meet with many Curiosities

in this place, especiallie

of <EM>Cristal,</EM>

brought

hither from the Alps, and a Thousand

Conceits,

most delicatly

wrought

of Straw. I have heard

of peeces

of <EM>Cristal,</EM>

with severall

shapes

represented

within them

naturally,

as of Trees,

Flees,

&amp;c. others with a drop of water within

them,

that one might perceive to

move, but is

was

not my Fortune to light on any such.</P>

<P>

<EM>7ly.</EM> The Castle of <EM>Milan,</EM>

is

one of the greatest

Forts

in <EM>Italy,</EM> with six Royal

Bastions,

a large Fossey full of running

water, and within it a second Wall of

247

strength. The Place within will admit of 6000

Men

to be drawn

up, It has

above 200

peece

of <EM>Cannon&#0183;</EM> all sorts

of <EM>Ammunition</EM> and 600 Spaniards

in Garison.

It has

a Water Miln within it for Grinding

of Corn, which is

moved

by the running

Water that fills

the Ditches.

</P>

<P>At a Miles

distance from the Town, there is

a Privat

Gentlemans

House, where the <EM>Echo</EM> is

so excellent that it repeats

above 40 times,

which you may try, ether by speaking

Loud or otherways with a Trumpet; but the

surest

way is

with Pistol Shot, for then you may

distinctly

tell to 40, one after another.</P>

<P>

The <EM>Carthusians</EM>

have a stately Monastery at

10 Miles

distance from <EM>Millan,</EM>

wihin five Miles

of <EM>Pavia,</EM> which hath

500000 Crowns

of Yearly revenue; The Monks

use to entertain Strangers

for one Night. The Church is

of a most Delicat Fabrick

and very Rich. If you please you may go from hence to

<EM>Pavia,</EM> Anciently

<EM>Ticinum,</EM> and afterward

called

<EM>Pavia.</EM> The Town is

very strong and stands

upon the <EM>Tesin&#0183;</EM>

248

It is

the Chief <EM>Vniversity</EM>

of the Dutchie

of <EM>Millan,</EM>

but because I was

not in it my self I cannot say much of it, only I have

heard

that in the great place of the City

stands

the <EM>Brazen Statue</EM> of the

Emperour

<EM>Constantine,</EM> or as some think of <EM>Antoninus,</EM>

very much esteemed.

If you list to go thither I believe it may be well worth your

seeing,

because of the <EM>Vniversity,</EM>

for, for any thing I know, there may be both good

Books,

and a <EM>Physical</EM> Garden

there.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Millan</EM>

to <EM>Turin,</EM> you have about 73

<EM>Miles.</EM></P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>From Millan

to Turin.</H4>

<EM>Buffalora </EM>

<LI>9</LI>

<EM>Novara </EM>

<LI>16</LI>

<EM>Vercelli </EM>

<LI>15</LI>

<EM>S. Germano </EM>

<LI>13</LI>

<EM>Ci<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>uas

</EM>

<LI>10</LI>

<EM>Turin<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

</EM>

<LI>10</LI>

</UL>

<P>

You have two <EM>Rivers</EM>

to pass, by Boat

249

<EM>viz.</EM> the <EM>Dorn,</EM> after you pass

<EM>Vereelli</EM> and the <EM>Tesin</EM> near to

<EM>Ci<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>uas:</EM>

Near to <EM>Vercelli</EM> you enter into <EM>Piedmont,</EM>

&amp; there you will meet with waiters

or Customers

to whom

you must give some thing, and before this time it will be

fitt

that you have changed

all your <EM>Spanish</EM> Money

except it be

Pistols,

or half Pistols

of Gold, for these will pass any where, either in

<EM>Piedmont</EM> or <EM>France.</EM> When you Arrive at

<EM>Turin</EM> you will think your self

allready

in <EM>France,</EM> for their Apparel,

Customs

and Discourse, are almost altogether <EM>French.</EM>

</P>

<P>

<EM>Turin, Augusta Taurinorum</EM>

is

the Capital City of

<EM>Piedmont,</EM> and is

situated

in a Plain about 20 Miles

distant from the Alps; having

the <EM>Po</EM> on the one side and the <EM>Dorn</EM> on the

other. The Dukes

of <EM>Savoye</EM>

keep their Court here, and have

made

it both very pleasant &amp; very strong: There

is

the old and new City, which is

very well and regularly

built.

It is

compassed

with <EM>Royal Bastions,</EM>

and Walls.

It hath

a <EM>Citadale,</EM> consisting

of 5 strong <EM>Bastions.</EM>

They say it is

after the Model

250

of the <EM>Citadale</EM> of <EM>Antwerp.</EM> The great Church

is

called

the <EM>Domo,</EM> where amongst

other relicts

is

keept

and had

in Veneration the <EM>Sanctum Sudarium,</EM> upon which the

<EM>Visage</EM> of our Saviour &amp; the

greatest

part of his Body is

impressed.

There is

a famous <EM>Vniversity</EM>

here, &amp; this is

said

to be the first Town in <EM>Italy</EM> that

had

the first use of Printing.

The Castle serves

now the Duke for a Palace. There

is

a rare Galerie

to be seen,

with many fine <EM>Pictures,

Antick

Statues</EM>

&amp;c. and a great Collection of

<EM>Manuscrips.</EM>

Amongst the new Buildings

the Royal Place is

considerable; the

walks

thereof being

full of Shops

and Merchandice

of all sorts.

You may likeways

see the <EM>Valentine,</EM> which

is

a beautifull

Palace, built

by <EM>Madam Royal</EM> a little beneath the Town upon the

Bank of the <EM>Po&#0183;</EM> In the

Suburbs

of the <EM>Po,</EM> there is

a House called

<EM>Albergo</EM> worthie

the seeing,

because of the many excellent

Manufactories

of Silk, and other Stuffs

that are made

there.

</P>

<P>

251

I leave the rest to your own observa<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ion,

that <EM>I</EM> may haste to bring you over

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>he Alps;

the ordinarie

way is

to Tra<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>el

with the Messenger to <EM>Lions</EM>

or to <EM>Ge<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eva.</EM>

We came

to <EM>Lions.</EM>

It is

a Jour<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ey

of 8 or 9 dayes.

The first day we <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>arted

from <EM>Turin</EM> about ten a Clock in

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>he

forenoon, and came

to lye

all Night <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ome

10 or 12 Miles

from <EM>Turin,</EM> having

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>llready

entered

into one of the Vallies

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>hat

leads

to the foot of the Hill; the next day we

Dined

at an

other little Village hard by the foot of the Hill,

cal<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ed

<EM>Monte Cene,</EM> here we hired

Mulets to <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>arrieus

up the Hill; it being

impossible for our Horses

to do it. You must likeways

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ire

Men

to carrie

you down on the other side of the Hill, because it

is

a great deal too far to walk, and the way that the Horse

goes,

is

farr

about, because of the steepness of the Hill. And yet

<EM>I</EM> mnst tell you that the Hill

is

three times

steeper

and less accessible on the <EM>Italian</EM> side than on the

<EM>French</EM> side. As you mount the Hill, at first you will

find the soyle

somewhat fertile at least wayes

for

252

pasturage and abundance of Wood; but when you are

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ot

higher

you will find nothing but Rocks,

&amp; Shrubs,

here &amp; there; there is

a little beck in the face of the Hill, where there

stands

a few Houses,

or rather corbie

nests;

a habitation which some People have

chosen

for the benefit they may make

by Accommodating

Strangers

that pass that way, for they are all

Victualing-Houses,

and (as I take it) a Smith or two. When you pass this and

continue still to <EM>Mount,</EM> you will be about the middle

Region of the Air, and it's a hundred to one; but you may see

<EM>Clouds</EM>

enough beneath you, &amp; it may be the Rain

falling

from them;

and then you will begin to find it cold what ever time of the

Year it be, and the the higher

you go it will still&#0183; be the

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>older,

till you come to the very highest

pitch you are to go, and there you will meet with a little

House, in which one can scarce stand upright, where, if you

have leisure, you will get some Bread &amp; Drink to buy; they

usually

have white Hares

and white Partridges

to sell, and

253

as usuall

it is

for Strangers

to buy them

for curiosities

sake, &amp; have them

dressed

at their next Lodging.

From this you have a Plain of above half a mile in length,

which for the most part is

coveted

with Snow, except in the heat of Summer and then it will be

green in some places

that are most exposed

to the Sunn.

The great Pike of the Hill, which

yo<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> leave

upon the right hand as you enter the plain,

is

above two miles

higher,

and perpetualie

covered

with deep Snow. About the middle of the plain

stands

the ruin of a great House, which <EM>Madam

Ro<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>al</EM>

began

to build, but whither she

finished

it or not, I cannot tell; however I

am

sure nothing but <EM>omnipotencie</EM>

could make a House resist the Rage of so much Wind and Storm,

as that Place is

Subject to. When you come to the end of the plain, there

is

an

other little Victualling

House, but it was

Desolate, when I pass'd. You quite your moulets at the

entrie

into the Plain, and take your own

Horses,

and here you quite them

again, and leave your Messenger

to wait upon them

to the bottom

254

of the Hill, the best way he can, and permit your self to be

carried

by two men

which came

along with you (for according

to the number of the Companie

there comes

two for one from the <EM>Italian</EM> side, as I

hinted

at before) It is

a kind of Barrow, with a litle

Seat, &amp; a back at it, with two little

handles

to hold by, &amp; a foot board for

streaching

your limbs

before you, tyed

at both ends

with a peece

of small Rope, that they set <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ou

upon; &amp; then carrie

you the nearest

way down the Hill, which you would think steep enough for

<EM>Goats</EM>

to climb. They go at the Rate of

an

Ordinary Horse trot, &amp; as they go will trist the

stones

to step upon, which lye

confusedly

here and there, as exactly

as if they were

a paire

of stairs

and yet they will not fall once in 500

times,

and if they should it would be a fall without any great

Perill.

But indeed the danger on the <EM>Italian</EM> side

is

much greater;

there being

great Precipices

on the one hand, where into, if one should fall it

were

impossible to escape, insomuch that I have often

wondred

how any Body durst

255

adventure to climb upon a Beasts

back: and yet is

admirable to see with it what dexteritie

these poor Moulets pick out their way, where scarce any man

could crawle

all four, &amp; how sure footed

they are. But I must returne

to the <EM>French</EM> side, where you may pay off your

porters

when they have brought

you to your Lodging

at a little Village near to the foot of the Hill. The

ordinarie

rate is

a Crown a Head that is,

half a Crown to every Porter.

</P>

<P>

I have told

you the way of passing

the <EM>Mount Cene</EM> at such

Seasons,

of the Year, as there is

little or no Snow: But in the Winter time when the

Snows

are fallen

the Passage is

much more uneasie

&amp; unsafe,

especiallie

if they be newly

fallen,

and the paths

not trod;

for then it is

not only impossible to go without 2 or 3

Guides,

that in case one should drop throw the Snow there may be more

hands

to let fall a Rope and bring him

up again; for

sometimes

that will happen, as when a Courier

is

necessitat to pass upon important

affairs,

&amp; any of the Guides

chance to mistake a step, he will some

256

times

slip down 100 fathom or two. But this

is

not the greatest

Danger neither, for in the

<EM>French</EM> side, from the foot of the

Hills,

you have a whole dayes

Journey and more through a

narrow Valley with a small River in the middle of it, which,

at the foot of the Mount <EM>Cene,</EM> one may

easilie

step over, but it grows

still bigger,

as it advances

throw the Valley; being

increased

by the water that pours

from everie

cleft of the Hills

and Rocks,

which are on everie

side of the Valley, of a prodigious

height, and most precipitious: The current of the River

falling

sometimes

to be on one side of the Valley, and

sometimes

on the other, for the most part

casts

the highway on the contrary

side; So that verie

often you will chance to pass under horrible

Rocks

that hang over the high way, and when the Snow

is

new fallen

and they loaden

with it, the least noise in the World would bring down a whole

Mountain of Snow, So that if a Passinger

were

so caught,

you might look upon him

as buried

till the following

Spring.

</P>

<P>

257

But I shall advise you to choose a fitter Season, and then you

will have the Satisfaction

of Herborising, for the lower parts

of the Hills

are all covered

with Trees

&amp; many sorts

of Plants,

that do not grow Naturalie

in an

other Soil. I confess my Fortune, as to this,

was

ill; for after I past the

<EM>Monte Cene,</EM> we had

a constant deluge of Rain,

till I came

the length of <EM>Chamberrie.</EM> But I must not here

forforget to acquaint you

with an

other particular that

had

almost escaped

me, in time of Snow: and it is

this. When you come to the <EM>French</EM> side

(supposing

the Snow to be frozen

and able to bear above;) there is

a singular way of going

down the Hill, which they call <EM>R<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>masser,

ou se faict

Ramasse.</EM> That is

to have a little hurdle of Wood, upon which the

Passingers

is

placed,

with a little bit of Boord

behind it, upon which the fellow

stands

that Guides

the way, and so you come hurling

down together, at a greater

rate than the swiftest

Horse in the World is

able to go.

</P>

<P>

258

I do not remember to have remarked

any thing worthie

the troubling

you with, upon the way from <EM>Mont Cene</EM>

untill

you come the length of <EM>Momilian,</EM>

except only that the

Inhabitants

near the <EM>Alps,</EM> are troubled

with a certain Disease

called

<EM>Bronchocele,</EM> which is

an

outward

swelling

in their Throats

from the Chin downward, sometimes

to the middle of their Breast,

so that they appear at first to have no Neck or Chin, but one

continued

Thing from their Mouth downward.

It is

exceedingly

hard and easily

affected

with Cold; the cause of it is

believed

to be their continual Drinking

of Snow-water, which runs

continually

from the Neigbouring

Hills.

</P>

<P>

<EM>Montmelian,</EM> is

a Fortress of great strength upon the

Borders

of <EM>Savoye</EM>

near to <EM>Daufin;</EM> it is

the only considerable place for strength in all

<EM>Savoye,</EM>

&amp; stand<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

within 3 leagues

of <EM>Chamberrie,</EM> &amp; within

5 or 6 of <EM>Granoble,</EM> which

is

a Parliament Town, and the

Capital City o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Daufine;</EM> as <EM>Chamberrie</EM>

is

of <EM>Savoye.</EM>

<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> the

necessity of your occasions

and you<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

259

Engagement to the Messenger oblige you not to go straight to

<EM>Lions,</EM>

it will be very proper to see <EM>Granoble,</EM>

Anciently

called

<EM>Gratianopolis</EM> from the

Emperour

<EM>Gratian:</EM> not that he was

the first Founder of it, but

because he enlarged

it much, and beautified

it. It lyes

in a plain at the foot of the Hill <EM>Chelmont,</EM> and

hath

the River <EM>Isere</EM> on the one side, &amp; <EM>Drac,</EM>

which is

an

impetuous torrent on the other.

A little beyond the <EM>Drac,</EM> there

is

a wonderfull

Curiositie

to be seen;

that is,

a Fountain that burneth

constantly.

The Fields

about the Town are exceeding

Fertile, and carrie

good Wine, but the neighbouring

Hills

are so high, that you may see Snow all the

dayes

of Summer upon their

Tops.

The Manufactorie

of Gloves

and dressing

of Skins

of all sorts

is

much commended

in this City.

</P>

<P>

But the most considerable thing in all this Country to be

seen

is

the great <EM>Charter-House,</EM> so

called

because the General of the <EM>Order</EM>

is

obliged

to Reside here. It is

a statelie

Monasterie,

but stands

in the wildest

place that ever my feet

trod

260

upon. The Reason they give for choosing

this place is,

because St. <EM>Bruno,</EM> the first <EM>Instituter</EM> of

their <EM>Order,</EM> did

pennance

here; It stands

very near the <EM>Mount Chelmount,</EM>

being

three Miles

distant from <EM>Granoble</EM> by a continual ascent. These

three leagues

will take you eight or nine good

Hours

riding,

for in many places

it is

not safe to ride, and you must be

forced

to walk a foot. About the mid-way there

stands

a little inconsiderable Village

of 4 or 5 Houses,

where it wil

be fit to repose a little; you will get Bread and Wine, and

it's fourtie

to one but you may meet with some good

peece

of <EM>sanglier,</EM> which abounds

upon the Hill; being

it is

for the most part covered

with Trees.

When you come within a Mile of the House, you meet with a

great Port and a Porter to wait upon it, who I

suppose

shuts

it in the Night time. Within the Port there

is

a Bridge over a great Cleft, within, which

runs

a little Rivolet;

there is

no possibilitie

of entering

any where on that side, but by this Port, from which you

ascend still to the Monasterie,

but,

261

the way is

easie,

and all within the top<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

of the Hills

covered

with <EM>Oakes,

Beeches,</EM>

and <EM>Firr-Trees;</EM>

within half a Mile of the Monasterie

or some less, stands

their Stables,

Garnels and other Office-Houses,

which indeed are statelie

and well appointed,

for there&#0183; they have lay-brothers

of all Trades

that serve to their purpose, and to this place it

is

that your Horses

are sent

back from the Monasterie

to be <FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>eept

till your going

away, and if by chance any of your own or

Horse-Furniture

had

been

broken

by the way, or your Horses

lost

a Shooe,

they will be all repaired

next Morning without your desiring

it. They have good store of Hay, and have

made

severall

Closes

near to the Monasterie,

(which stands

on that side of the Hill that hangs

to the Southwest, and consequently

has

most of the Sun for making

of Hay,) having

felled

down all the Wood that grew

upon them.

When you Arrive at the Monasterie,

you alight from your Horses

and then the Porter

desires

you to stay untill

he call the Prefect, who presently

comes

and informs

262

himself of your Names,

Qualities,

Country, and the Occasion of

your coming

(for most part come out of Devotion, and they be but few

Strangers

that come for Curiositie,

but however all are welcome,) which

being

done

he craves

you Patience to acquaint the General, but he very soon

returnes

to conduct you to your apartement,

only you must leave your Swords

and Pistols

with the Porter at the Gate. The

Monasterie

is

verie

large, and they have a different apartment for most

Nations.

We were

carried

into one that was

very convenient, being

a large Room wanscoted about with

Firr-<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ords;

and for Fireing,

every Log of Wood they put on, is

like the End of a Ships-Mast.

Our Beds

for the most part were

at the sides

of the Room within the Wal,

all boorded

abou<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT> like

a Ships

Cabbin;

and for Courtens having

two folding

leaves,

which you may shut or leave open at pleasure. Upon our first

Arrival into this Room, we were

presented

with a Collation of very good Wine, Bread, Butter and Cheese;

and then a Guide

263

given

us to conduct us up the Hill, yet half a Mile further, to see

St. <EM>Bruno</EM>'s Chapel, that

stands

in the place where he did

his Pennance

for many Years

together, as they will more

particularly

inform you, &amp; as you

returne

they will let you see another Chapel

Dedicated

to our Lady. By that time you are

returned

to the Monasterie

it will be time to Supp, and then

according

to your number you will be treated

with more or fewer

Dishes.

We were

only six in Companie,

and we had

above 30 Dish of Meat, but there

was

not above three or four Varieties,

except in the way of dressing;

&amp; for that they are admirable. I believe we

had

at least a Dussen of different dishes

of Eggs,

all prepared

in different maners;

the rest were

a few Fishes

and <EM>Fritato</EM>'s, for seeing

they never eat Flesh themselves, it cannot be

exspected

they should give it to any other Body within their

Monasterie.

The next Morning the Prefect conducts

you thorow

the House, shewes

you the different Apartments,

and particularlie

to us was

shown

that of the

264

<EM>English</EM> Nation, which they

used

to Assigne

for them

in former times,

but now because of their

defection from the Faith, they have

given

it to the <EM>German</EM> Nation. They show you

painted

about the Walls

the severall

Torments

&amp; Deaths

inflicted

upon those of thei<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>

<EM>Order</EM> in <EM>England,</EM> in the time of King

<EM>Henry</EM> the 8. &amp; Queen <EM>Elizabeth.</EM> They let

you see the Church, the <EM>Library,</EM>

the <EM>Refectory,</EM> the Religious

<EM>Cells,</EM>

the <EM>Kitchen,</EM> (which is

the best I have seen

in <EM>France</EM> after that of the

<EM>Jesuits</EM>

at <EM>L<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>-Flesch,</EM>)

and lastly

the <EM>Cellers,</EM>

which are well enough furnished,

but nothing so well as those at <EM>Naples</EM> of the same

<EM>Order.</EM> If any Gentleman be desirous to see the

General, and speake

with him,

it will be granted

him,

and he will find him

very Civil. All this being

done

you Breakfast, the Prefect

waits

upon you to the Gate, where your

Horses

attend you, and your Arms

are delivered

you, &amp; so leaveing

a little Drink-Money to the Servan<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s,

(about a Crown a Head for Gentlemen,)

you take leave and returne

again to <EM>Granoble.</EM> I

must only add that

265

all this Hill over there is

excellent Herbarizing.

</P>

<P>From <EM>Granoble</EM> to <EM>Lions,</EM>

you have a Matter of 15 leagues,

in which there is

little considerable.</P>

<P>From <EM>Chamberrie</EM> to <EM>Lions</EM>

there is

16 leagues,

but nothing considerable upon the

way; save only that within 2 Miles

of <EM>Chamberrie</EM> you have only the

<EM>Gabelette</EM> to pass,

which is

a very steep and high Mountain in several

parts

precipicious,

especiallie

on the <EM>Savoy</EM> side, yet you mount that side on your own

Horses,

and must carrie

along with you from <EM>Chamberrie</EM>

Porters

to carrie

you down the Hill, on the <EM>French</EM> side. I think you will

pay but half a Crown for your two

Porters,

and you will find them

as dexterous in their Trade,

as those of <EM>Mount Ceni's.</EM></P>

<P>

Some that have a mind to see <EM>Geneva</EM> pass the

<EM>Alps,</EM> either by the <EM>Mount

Sampion</EM> or the Mount St.

<EM>Bernard,</EM> and so from <EM>Geneva</EM> either go

straight to <EM>Lio<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>s,</EM>

which is

a Matter of 26 Leagues,

or else from <EM>Geneva</EM> go to <EM>Chamberrie,</EM> which

is

266

12 Leagues,

and from thence to <EM>Montmelian,</EM>

the <EM>Grand Charterhouse,</EM> and so pass by

<EM>Granoble</EM> to <EM>Lions.</EM>

This is

all that occurs

to my Memorie

at present, concerning

this Journey.

</P>

<P>

In truth I am

very sensible that it might have

been

much more accurat,

had

I been

so diligent as to write of it in the time I

made

the Journey, when all things

were

fresh in my Memorie.

But that occasion being

lost;

<EM>I</EM> had

no more left me, but to Recol<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>ect

my Thoughts

as carefully

as I could to satisfie

your desire, &amp; the rather because I

am

hopefull,

it will provoke you to make a more diligent Inquiry

after all

things,

and to set them

down Orderly, without trusting

your Memorie.

This <EM>I</EM> conjure you to do; and assure your self, it

is

one of the greatest

things

<EM>I</EM> will expect from you at your

return. <EM>I</EM> confess,

<EM>I</EM> have been

somewhat prolix in my

narration, but, if you consider the vastness and

Fertilitie

of the Subject, you will find few

Towns

in <EM>Italy,</EM> of which there might not have

been

more said

than I have said

of them

all; &amp; this you

267

will easily

find to be true if you please to make a Collection of those

Books

that are writen

of the Antiquities,

and Curiosities,

of each of them:

For there is

scarcelie

any Town in <EM>Italy,</EM> where, you may not find such

Books.

However such as it is

I offer it you, and wish it were

better for your sake, for whole service it

was

only undertaken;

aud

if it prove acceptable and usefull

to you, I have my designe.

I shall o<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>lie

add that it had

been

sent

you much sooner,

had

not the Necessitie

of an

Extraordinarie

attendance upon this

<EM>Winter-Session,</EM> so often

withdrawn

me, together with the other Duties

of my Profession, which I was

Obliged

to perform.

</P>

<P>Postscript.</P>

<UL>

<BR><H4>A List of those Things,

which I desire The Laird of LEVINGSTONE to procure for me in

Italy.</H4>

<LI>

<P>

1. All the new Books

of <EM>Physick,

Botany,</EM> and that any way relate to the

Historie

of Nature, that have been

printed

since

268

the 64. and of Old Books,

<EM>Aldrovandi's</EM> works

at <EM>Bolognia,</EM> together with any

other he can meet with, that

was

contained

in the first List I gave

him

when he parted

from hence, as also at <EM>Rome</EM> I desire

him

to buy me a Book in <EM>Taildouce,</EM>

containing

all the Antiquities,

<EM>Palaces

Statues,

Churches,

Villa's, Fountains,

Pyramids</EM>

&amp;c. in <EM>Rome.</EM> I would have it of the best,

largest

and finest

Impression; and if you cannot get

them

so in one Book, I would have you take

them

in severall

Fashions

as you can best find them:

You may inquire <EM>appresso Giacomo di Rossi a la Pace in

Roma.</EM> Also <EM>Caroli Avantij, Paraleipomena

Botanica,</EM> if it be to be had,

for I never saw

it, onlie

he promiseth

it in his <EM>Notes</EM>

in <EM>Caenam Baptiste

Fiera</EM> 4. <EM>Patav</EM> 1649.

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

2. At <EM>Florence</EM> I desire that you would remember

to procure me a small Parcel of all the

Varieties

of Stones

you can come by. The readie

way will be to inquire for them

at the Stone Cutters

in the great Dukes

Chapel at St. <EM>Laurence</EM> Church, or else at the

Work-men

that work in Stone for

269

Cabinets

at the Dukes

Gallerie.

But above all, of these two

kinds

of Stone that are most comon

at <EM>Florence;</EM> whereof the one

Represents

Trees,

and Forrests;

the other, Towns

and Villages:

I would have of each two or three large handsome

choise

Peeces,

fitt

to be put in Frames.

I would likeways

have of those peeces

of <EM>Cristal</EM>

that are extraordinarie

for Colour, or otherwayes

that have any Substance, contained

within them;

as water, &amp;c. you may possibly

find such, either at <EM>Florence</EM> or

<EM>Millan,</EM>

or it may be <EM>Venice</EM> or any

other where. There

is

likeways

a Stone called

<EM>Lapis Fungiferus;</EM> It is

a Stone that being

placed

in the Ground produces

large Mushroms;

I had

one of them

given

me at <EM>Rome,</EM> but unhappily

lost

it at <EM>London.</EM> To the best of my

Memorie,

they are commonly

found about <EM>Praenestae,</EM>

commonly

called

<EM>Palestrina.</EM> Some honest Virtuoso, &amp;

particularlie

<EM>Padre Barilieri alla Minerva in Roma,</EM> will tell

you where they may be got;

I have likeways

heard

that they were

in many places

of the Kingdom of <EM>Naples.</EM>

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

270

3. I humbly

desire likeways

some parcel of <EM>Antieails,</EM>

some<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>three

or 4 of the <EM>Antiche

Lucerne</EM>

of the best fashioned

and best preserved.

In my time there was

2 or 3 in the <EM>Piazza navona,</EM> that

sold

such things,

and particularly

an

Old Man, whose Name I have forgot,

that had

whole Cabinets

full of <EM>Intalio</EM>'s and <EM>Medales.</EM> I desire

likeways

some <EM>Intalio</EM>'s that be

truly

<EM>Antique:</EM> the excellencie

of the Impression, and the deepness of it

commends

them,

especiallie

if they be well preserved,

&amp; neither the Stone nor impression

spoiled.

I would likeways

have some <EM>Brass-Medals</EM>

of the <EM>1st.</EM> or second <EM>Magnitude,</EM> that be

well preserved.

There are many things

that commend

<EM>Medals</EM>

to be good, particularly,

1. to be Antique and not Counterfeit. 2. To be well

preserved,

<EM>3ly.</EM> to have a good Reverse;

&amp; it is

to be observed,

that the differences

of reverses

make different Medals,

altho'

they be of the same Emperour,

or Consul, and of the same <EM>Magnitude,</EM> and it

is

likeways

to be observed

that those Emperours

who Reigned

longest

had

the greatest

Varietie

of Medals;

As for Reverses,

the

271

best are such as are least common; as for example <EM>a

Charriot,

a Triumphal Arch, a Trophie

of Warr,

a Man or a Womans Head for the Reverse, two

Faces

on one side, a Galey,

the Instruments

of Sacrifice, an

Amphitheatre, a

Mousolium, an

Elephant, a Lion, a Dolphin,</EM> and many more such that

I cannot remember of; as also a Reverse

charged

with many Figures,

can never be ill, nor one that relates

any known

Historie,

as one that I have of <EM>Titus Vespasian</EM> with a

Palm<FONT SIZE="-1" COLOR="#999999">[...]</FONT>Tree,

a Slave sitting

at the foot of it, with this Word, <EM>Judea capta</EM>

for the Reverse thereof. But <EM>I</EM> doubt mine

is

only a Copie,

and not truly

Antique. <EM>I</EM> would likeways

have a few <EM>Chamaeo</EM>'s providing

they be not dear; that which commends

them

is

to have the Figures

well done,

and to be well preserved.

The Pretiousnes of the Stone doth

likeways

contribute much to

their Value. In all there, that

is,

<EM>Medales, Intaglias, Chameo</EM>'s, <EM>I</EM> would be

content that ye did

bestow 4 or 5 Pistolls

for me, which tho' <EM>I</EM> confess it be a very small

Summ;

yet you may chance to make a better purchase for it at

<EM>Rome</EM>

272

than any where else for a farr

bigger.

Lastly,

to conclude this Article, <EM>I</EM> would fain have some

of the Ancient Glass, which through time

looks

now as it were

Opal; Nothing will commend it so much as to find

an

intire

vase or <EM>Phiol,</EM> for example a

<EM>Lachrimatory,</EM> such as the

Ancients

used

to cape their own or their Friends

Tears

in.

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P><EM>4ly.</EM> There is

the Face of a Hill near to <EM>Rome,</EM> as <EM>I</EM>

remember, it is

at the End of the <EM>Janicular,</EM> not

farr

from <EM>Cardinal Francis

Barherin's Villa,</EM> that is

full of Shells

of all sorts

<EM>Petrified,</EM>

or if ye please to call them

Stones,

resembling

all the Species of Shells.

By what means

they came

there, <EM>I</EM> leave you to find out&#0183; only

<EM>I</EM> would fain have you to make good Provision of all

the Varieties

of them,

and these as intire

as you can get them.</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

<EM>5ly.</EM> At <EM>Naples I</EM> would desire you to buy

me a couple of black Sashes,

Net-work such as they use. <EM>I</EM> think the best use

to cost 3 or 4 Crowns

a Peece,

and <EM>I</EM> would have the best. <EM>I</EM> would

likeways

have you to buy me at <EM>Luca,</EM> or at <EM>Florence,

I</EM> think you may do it in either, two of the

largest

273

quilted

Silk Stomagers, or Breast-Plates,

such as people use to wear there in

Winter time. And at

<EM>Rome</EM> I intreat you to buy me a Dossen a pair of

Gloves,

<EM>Concia di Roma,</EM> not exceeding

a <EM>Testone,</EM>

or 4 <EM>Julio's</EM> a pair: and at <EM>Venice</EM> two

<EM>pound,</EM> of the best Old <EM>Theriae.</EM> At

<EM>Bolognia</EM> a Dossen or two of

<EM>Soap-Balls.</EM>

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P>

<EM>6ly.</EM> All the Natural Curiosities

that you can meet with, with your

conveniencie

of <EM>Fowls,

Fish, Insects</EM>

or other <EM>Animals,</EM>

the manner of Ordering,

of which I have written

to you formerly.

I confess these you sent

me from <EM>Paris</EM> were

the best ordered

I ever saw;

but besides

that it is

too Expensive, you will not allways

meet with the Oportunity,

of having

them

so ordered;

therefore it will be sufficient, if the

Skins

(being

carefully

taken

of, and stuffed

with <EM>Flax,</EM> or <EM>Cotten</EM>)

be so preserved:

But for the smaller

sort of <EM>Insects,</EM>

their whole Bodies

will easily

preserve; the Guts

being

first taken

out. Of this kind I would have these <EM>viz.</EM> a

<EM>Viper</EM> or two both the kinds

of <EM>Tarantula, viz.</EM> the <EM>Stellio,</EM> which

is

a kind of <EM>Lizard</EM> Curiously,

Spotted,

but

274

accounted

<EM>Poysonous;</EM>

and the other true one, which is

shaped

like a <EM>Spider:</EM> and what others you think

fitt.

</P>

</LI>

<LI>

<P><EM>7ly.</EM> Be pleased

to make me some purchase of

Outlandish Curiosities,

especially,

such as are from the <EM>Levant,</EM> of

whatsoever Sort that you

can meet with. Buy me at <EM>Venice,</EM> a

<EM>Stilletto,</EM> and a pair of

<EM>Armenian

Shoos,</EM>

shod with Iron on the heels,

such as they use to wear undermost.</P>

</LI>

</UL>

<P>For the rest I refer you to the <EM>Itinerary,</EM> and shall

earnestly

intreat you to do me the Favour to Remember all my

desires,

as farr

as may Stand with your Convenience, for further I should be very

sorry to trouble you. I do likeways

with much Earnestness Recommend to you those

Particulars,

concerning

my self, mentioned

in such Places

of the <EM>French Itinerary</EM> (which I

sent

you last Year) as you have not yet

seen.

Thus, once again wishing

you all happiness,</P>

<BR>

I Remaine

Your <EM>&amp;c.</EM>

<BR>

226

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