<p>LETTERS Write to a Friend, By the Learned and Judicious Sir <i>Andrew Balfour,</i> M. D CONTAINING Excellent Directions and Advices For Travelling thro' FRANCE <i>and</i> ITALY With many Curious and Judicious Remarks and Observations made by Himself, in His Voyages thro' these Countreys.</p>

<p>Published from the Author's Original M. S.</p>
<p><i>EDINBURGH,</i> Printed in the Year, M.DCC.</p>
 </br> </br> 
  </br> <H4>To the Most Illustrious, Most Potent, and Noble EARLE, ALEXANDER Earle of Murray, Lord Doun and Abernethy, &amp;c.</H4> </br> <H4>Sometime Lord High COMMISSIONER, And Principal SECRETARY of State For the Kingdom of Scotland.</H4>
 </br> My Noble Lord!

<p> IN all Ages, discerning and serious Men, who knew best to allow and distinguish things and Persons, have made it their great Complaint, That the present Generation did degenerat from the former; And that the Generality of Men were too apt and ready to pursue bad Courses: And some thinking Persons now, are easily induced to believe, that, the Days we live in, the World is not much mended. This notwithstanding, no Time hath been known (how dissolut soever) wherein some worthy &amp; vertuous Men have not appeared, who have studied to improve Natural and Moral Enduements, and to pursue Vertue, preferring that way to base Interest, and selfish Ends. And it is well known, that even at this Time, when many &amp; great Duties are easily superceded, there are here and there some Persons who worthily act upon the Principles of Honour, Conscience, and Vertue, maugre all Discouragements. Among whom Your Lordship (even in your Solitude) moves and acts in a very high and conspicuous Sphere, to that Measure of lovely Vertue and Splendor, that Your Friends and Wellwishers admire, and your Enemies (if You have any) can find no matter of Censure. If there were many such in the Nation, it would be no hard mater to retrieve &amp; bring in Vogue again, these adequat Qualities and Vertues, which often have rendered many of our Countrymen (endued therewith) famous and illustrious both at Home and Abroad. In the mean Time it is to be wish'd that each man would labour to reform Himself and his own Ways, conforming them to these excellent Rules. And that certainly at length would make and advance a laudable Reformation indeed. But it is to be feared, that this would rather prove an abortive Wish, than that it shall have its wisht for Effect: albeit (to have it so with the World) it should be a part of our dayly Prayers, and come in continually to Our <i>Letany.</i> </p>

<p>My Lord!</p>

<p> Whilst You are Enjoying Your self, and are solaced with the Comfort of a good Conscience, in Your Retirement, making your self an Example of Vertue, and a Patern of Honour and Goodness to those who observe you and your Actions. I humbly address <i>Your Lordship,</i> not desiring to interrupt Your Repose, but to afford You a litle divertisement for some of your vacant and Recreating Minuts: By Offering to <i>Your Lordships</i> Perusal these following <i>Sheets,</i> and Begging <i>Your Patronage</i> thereto: And I judge I have little Reason to despair of your Favour and Acceptance, since <i>Your Lordship</i>  was Pleased to shew a more than Ordinary Affection and Kindness to the Author my Father. And therefore I hope this little Tract wil give <i>Your Lordship</i> some Content; and for others I am bold to say, I hope well: for many Persons of great <i>Honour</i> and <i>Judgement,</i> have (since my Father the <i>Authour</i>'s Death) been sollicitous to get written <i>Copies</i> from the <i>Original,</i> which was indeed perfected by My <i>Father</i> in his Own Time, without any Design to make it publick. But my <i>Father</i>'s M. S. with all his <i>Books</i>  being committed to a certain Person he, without my Privity, gave out <i>Copies</i> to <i>Knowing</i> &amp; <i>Inquisitive Persons,</i> as of late I came to understand, and now these <i>Copies</i> abounding abroad, and most (if not all) being defective or incorrect, (to Prevent my <i>Father</i>'s being abused) I now send a True <i>Copy</i> abroad unto the <i>World,</i> and let it See the Light: And go it must under <i>your Lordships Patronage,</i> for I am confident the Design will succeed the better, and the <i>Book</i> will be the more acceptable to these who Love and Desire the <i>Knowledge</i>  of such <i>curious Maters:</i> Nor shal I diffide its <i>Fate,</i> being first wellcome to Your Lordship, to whom I hereby address the same, most humbly and heartily, and not in course, ingyring upon a Patron, as the custom sometimes is. </p>

<p> Thus, begging Your Lordships Pardon for my Presumption, I do intreat from your Lordship the Honour to be accounted, </p>
 </br> My Noble LORD, Your <i>Lordships</i> most humble, Most Faithfull, most Devoted, And Obedient Servant, M. BALFOVRE. </br> 
 </br> </br> 
 i </br> <H4>TO THE READER</H4>

<p>IT is needless to show the many advantages may be had from Travelling, since all are convinced of it; and the VVisest of Men in all <i>Ages</i>  have thought this the best way to improve themselves: thus, as <i>Homer,</i> the <i>Greek</i> Master, showes us, <i>Vlysses</i> followed this Method.</p>
 </br> </br> Qui Domitor <i>Trojae</i> multorum providus Vrbes, </br> Et Mores hominum inspexit; latumque per aeqour </br> Dum sibi dumsocijs reditum parat, aspera multa </br> Pertulit. </br> 

<p> And such a one <i>Homer</i> drew his Son <i>Telemachus,</i> whose adventures have of late been Painted by an excellent Pen, with all the advantages, requisit for the education of a good Man and Excellent Prince. ii Indeed, the World is a Theater, in which we may see not only the different productions of Nature, but also all the Arts &amp; Mysteries of Government; and all the wayes of improving Nature by Art; and every Climate affords new <i>Scenes</i> for improving <i>Geography, Natural</i>  and <i>Civil Historie, Medicine, Commerce,</i> and all the <i>Mechanick</i> Arts. </p>

<p><i>Medicine</i> certainly is much improved this way, for thus <i>Galen</i> writes, he sailed to <i>Lemnos, Cyprus</i> and <i>Palestina</i> of <i>Syria,</i> on purpose to see foreign <i>Plants,</i>  and rare Ores and Mineralls.</p>

<p> The following Letters give you some account, to this purpose, of these Countries in <i>Europe</i> viz. <i>England, France</i> and <i>Italy,</i> which for, Politeness &amp; Civility, for <i>Grandeur</i> and Magnificence, &amp; for Arts and Inventions, and the Publick incouragements of them, farr excelleth all the rest. The Author of them, Sir <i>Andrew Balfour,</i> Doctor of <i>Medicine,</i> spent some fifteen Years in his Travels, &amp; Residence in these Countries; He was a Man of an Excellent VVit, and of a Ripe Judgement, and of a most taking behaviour; He had improven himself iii to the best advantage, with all the learning taught in the most famous <i>Vniversities</i>  of these Countries, had acquired their Languages, and Conversed with the most famous Man then alive. The particular Curiosity He had to learn every thing that might enrich his mind with knowledge, was in his youngest Years favoured with the Example and Instruction of his eldest Brother, 30 Years elder than himself, the Famous Sir <i>James Balfour, Lyon King at Arms,</i> who had a Curious <i>Bibliotheck,</i> had Collected in his Cabinet many Curious Products of Nature and pieces of Art, and took delight to cherish this early Curiositie of his youngest Brother: With this Disposition &amp; proficiencie in the Learning then taught in his Native Country, He begun his Travels, which, in so long a Tract of time he employed that way, came to Qualify him exceedingly for performing all that is recorded of him. [<B>Note:</B> In the Memoria <i>BALFOUR[...]A[...]A.</i>  ] </p>

<p> When He wrot these Letters He had setled his abode at <i>Edinburgh,</i> where He Practised <i>Physick</i> with great Success, &amp; iv deservedly gained the Reputation of the best Qualified <i>Physitian</i>  in the place, and accordingly was employed by these of the best Rank. About a Year or two after his settlement here He took the Resolution of erecting a publick Garden for <i>Plants,</i> and a Cabinet of Curiosities: He had begun the last in his own Lodging&#0183; and was projecting how He might establish the other, when He became acquainted with that worthie Gentleman <i>Patrick Murray,</i> Baron of <i>Livingstone,</i> to whom these Letters (now publish'd) were addressed. This Gentleman designed so much for the good &amp; Honour of his Country, that I cannot but in this place do that Justice to his Memorie to give the World some Character of him, having been well acquainted with him, &amp; having had the happiness to make the Acquaintance, &amp;
 beginn the Friendship contracted betwixt him, and Sir <i>Andrew Balfour,</i> which produced these Letters. </p>

<p> This Gentleman had a particular <i>Genie</i> inclining him to studie Natural History, and all the wayes and means, how to improve the Arts, most usefull to his Countrie; He v had studied the <i>Mathemathicks,</i> &amp; delighted much in the practical part of them, &amp; employed much of the Revenue of that plentifull Estate He had from his Ancestors, in purchasing Instruments, &amp; Curious Books, which treated on these Subjects, He having Travelled over a great part of this Country, in searching after the Plants that grew wild up and down in it, &amp; withall having read severall writers on the Plants, he every Year sent for new Seeds of foreign Plants: He inclosed a considerable Parcel of Ground, in which He trained them up with great Skill; and before He [...] to his Travells, He had of domestick and foreign Plants, growing in his Garden at <i>Livingstone,</i> above a Thousand: He was above thirty six Years of Age before He began his Travells, and had fitted himself by reading of <i>Voyages,</i>  and such Books as might best inform him of what He was to inquire for, in foreign Countries, ye[...] He was so sensible of the great Advanta[...] [...] that Learning Sir <i>Andrew Balfour</i> [...] [...]ster of, that He not only inform[...]d [...]  him of the best Books, fitted [...] vi and the designe He had to Learne all that might be for the improving of knowledge, &amp; of the Arts usefull to this Country, but likewise He obtained his promise to intertain a Correspondence with him whilst He was in foreign Countries, by Letters, upon all Occasions. These three make a Part of what Sir <i>Andrew</i> wrote. He had whilst He was abroad, bought up most of the writers extant upon Plants and other parts of naturall History, and many relating to the culture of Plants; He had [...]exactly learned all the Plants then keept in the Kings Garden at <i>Paris</i> (the most compleat that is in the World, either for the number or the Quality of the Plants) or in privat Gardens there; and had travelled thorough a great part of <i>France,</i> when He was surprized with a Feaver, that he contracted at <i>Avignion,</i>  of which he dyed. </p>

<p> He begun his <i>Voyage</i> the <i>2d.</i> of <i>September</i> 1668, and dyed in <i>August</i> or <i>September</i> 1671. In these places of <i>England</i> and <i>France</i> He Travelled thorough, He gives a very particular Account, even of the Dimension vii of the Publick Buildings, the Remarks, the distances of the places; He gives an Account of the Government of <i>France,</i> of the <i>Peers</i>  there, &amp; the <i>Orders</i> of <i>Knighthood;</i> He gives an account of the Remarkable Manufactories in <i>France,</i> &amp; particularizes some of the Mines and Quarries of <i>Marble,</i> and has an Account of the <i>Canale</i>  for the Communication betwixt the <i>Mediterranean</i> and the <i>Ocean;</i> He shows the Quality of the Weather, the Habits of the People in the Souths parts of <i>France;</i> He des[...]ibes the Monuments of Eminent Men, &amp; [...] some of their Sepulchral inscriptions, and takes notice of the best Gardens and of the C[...]iners of the Curious where He Travelled&#0183;
 describing many particulars not to be [...]et [...]ith in the printed Voyages, and upon this Account his Voyage deserves very well to be made Publick. </p>

<p> <i>As to these Letters of Sir</i> Andrew Balfour <i>now published, I shall leave the Judgement of them to the Learned, who may peruse them; yet this I must say,</i> There are many particularities in them relating to Natural History, and the way of Safe and connient viii Travelling, not to be met with in the printed Accounts of these Countries, and I am perswaded they are of Excelleut use for these who study Natural History, and Physick, where they may be informed where Plants, &amp; other Subjects of them, are to be found in their Native Places, and where they may see the <i>Cabinets</i>  of the Curious. </p>

<p>Others will be hereby instructed in the <i>Manners, Orders,</i> and <i>Customes,</i> of these People; They will find likeways many Curious Reflections, which are Pleasant to read, and may give rise to higher Considerations. They will see what Varieties foreign Countries of a different Soil &amp; Temperature of Air, do afford; severall of which may be brought here, and may be made usefull to this Country.</p>

<p>
 What Sir <i>Andrew</i> delivereth here, is what he observed, experienced, and handled himself, and none need question the Relations in any Circumstance; He was known to be a most candid and Ingenious Gentleman, He gives his apprehension and Judgment of the Reasons &amp; causes: which was allways much valued by all which ix kneDw him; being a Gentleman of Excellent VVit, and Judgment: He did not expect that they should be printed, and in his lifetime he would never hear of it; and such was his Modesty, he never shewed them to any but his most intimate Friends, and could not be perswaded to give a Copie of them, but since his Death copies of them have past from hand to hand, and all who have seen them are very well pleased; whereupon at the earnest intreaty of his Friends, his Son hath published them in the Stile he found them writen; his design was to render all easie &amp; intelligible to his Friend he wrote them to; if the <i>Phrase</i> &amp; Language seem in some places less ornate, &amp; not so congruous as may be expected now, it is to be remembred, they were writen thirty Years ago, when he had been Fifteen Years absent from his own Country, &amp;
 had accustomed himself to speak foreign more Language, than to Studie the Elegancie of his own Native Tongue; &amp; this I think should excuse him at the hands of the <i>Criticks,</i> He Studied more things than words, x &amp; yet, as all know, He expressed himself most handsomely upon all Occasions. </p>

<p>It was fitt this should be Represented: The rest is left to the impartiall Reader, who will meet with so many Remarkable &amp; usefull things in the Letters, that there is no doubt of his kind Acceptance of them. If these meet with the encouragement hoped for, 'tis like, the <i>Baron</i> of <i>Lovingstone</i> his observations in his Travels, in our Language too, and a Voyage of another Countryman of ours, through <i>France</i> and <i>Italy,</i>  writen in a pure Stile of Latine, may be published for the satisfaction of such as are Curious of Travells,</p>
 <BLOCKQUOTE>Farewell.</BLOCKQUOTE>
 </br> </br> 

 1 </br> <H4>LETTER I.</H4> </br> <H4>CONTAINING An Account of what is remarkable in and about London, &amp;c. And in and about Paris, &amp;c.</H4>
 </br> Sir,

<p> I Cannot inform You of any thing considerable on this side <i>London,</i> except it please you, when you are got the le[...]gth of <i>Huntington,</i> to turn six or seven miles out of the road to see <i>Cambridge;</i>  which I doe truly think worth the while, in regard it is one of the two famous Universities of <i>England,</i> where if it please you, You may take Notice of the number, structure, and order of the Colledges, <i>&amp;c.</i> but particularly of the Libraries and Gardens; as also of the Book-sellers Shops in the town-where possibly you may meet with something 2 that you shal not meet with any where els in order to this it would be convenient to have some letter of recomendation or adress to some member of the University whom you might be sure (upon this account) to find very ready to serve you; I am sorry that I cannot help you in this particular, having never been in this place my self; But I think if you address your self to Mr. <i>Ray</i> (who wrote and published the Catalogue of plants growing about <i>Cambridge</i>) upon the score of seeing that place, and himself as a Person so deserving especially in the knowledge of plants, of which you are also a verie great lover; I make no doubt you shall find him as ready to oblidge you there, as you use to be to any <i>Virtuoso</i> here. </p>

<p> At <i>London</i> I shall advise you to lodg in or about <i>Convent</i>-garden, as a place most commodious for your business. I thought it necessar to accompany you only with two leters of recommendation, the one to Dr. <i>Morisone,</i> whom I think the best <i>Botanist</i> in the world, and a most honest 3 and obliging friend; By his means you will easily see all that is considerable of Plants about <i>London,</i> and purchase what seeds that place affoords. The other is to Mr. <i>Scott</i> a Book-seller, dwelling in <i>Little-Britain</i> by whose means you may be furnished with any Book that may be be had in <i>London;</i> and I think as reasonably as else-where: notwithstanding you will 'doe well to see other shops, as particularly Mr. <i>Bees</i>  and Mr. <i>Pulleyns,</i> both of them in <i>Little-Britain.</i> </p>

<p>As for the other beauties of the Court and City I need not say much, being you will easily be informed of them upon the place: I shall only hint at some of the most considerable,</p>

<p> And first, at <i>Whythall</i> be pleased to take Notice of the [...]anquetting-house; you will find it of a stately fabrick, such as the late King designed to have all the Palace of; it was built by King <i>James,</i> the historie of whose diefication you wil find Painted on the roofe within, by the noble artist <i>Rubens,</i> only you will find the Figures too big, occasioned by the 4 Painters misinformation concerning the Hight of the Room, which he was made beleeve to be greater. The King's privy Rooms are worth the seeing, because of their excellent Ornaments of Hangings and Pictures. </p>

<p>2 The Palace of <i>Westminster,</i> in which I find the great Hall only considerable for its great breadth and artificiall roof.</p>

<p>3. <i>Henry</i> VII. Chappel and the tombs in and near it.</p>

<p>4. You will do well upon some Holyday (if any happen during your abode there) to see the King at Divine service, in regard of the extraordinary state used on such dayes, as also of the excellent Musick; I would advise you likwise to see the King dine on some such day.</p>

<p>5. The Tower, in which be curious to see the Mint Crown, Scepter, &amp; Treasury, the Magazine of ancient arms <i>&amp;c.</i> and the new Arsenall built and furnished by the present King, The wild Beasts.</p>

<p> 6. <i>Gresham</i>-Colledge, where the Exchange is now kept; inquire there for Dr. <i>Pope</i> that by his means you may see 5 a verie fine collection of naturall rarities kept in that Colledge. He will likewise carry you to see the Royall society, if you so desire. </p>

<p>7. The King and Dukes play-houses.</p>

<p>8. The Innes of Court, especially the <i>Temple, Lincolns</i> Inn, and <i>Gray</i>'s Inn.</p>

<p>9. The New Exchange, and not farr from it, <i>Sommerset</i>-House.</p>

<p>10. St. <i>James</i>'s-House and Park.</p>

<p>11. If yow please to take a pair of Oares the length of <i>Greenwich,</i> you will see the Kings new House that is a building there, and if you please to walk up to the Hill above it, You will have a prospect up and down the river, which the multitude of goodly ships, the pleasantness of of the Countrey about, and our Countreyman <i>John Barcly</i>'s curious Description and Commendation of it, render most famous.</p>

<p> 12. For the rest, I shall only put you in mind, that about <i>London</i> there are such places, as <i>Wimbletone</i> belonging now to the Earle of <i>Bri[...]o[...],</i> but lately to the Queen-Mother and in the time of the 6 Rebellion possest by <i>Lambert;</i> who imbellished the Garden thereof with great variety of plants. <i>Hampton</i>-Court and Park belonging to the Kings Majesty. I shall likewise put You in mind that <i>Oxfoord</i> is but fifty miles from <i>London,</i> and that it is one of the most famous Universities in the world, both for the number and structure of the Colledges and Halls, and for the multitude of [...]udents, and competency of their provision. The chief Colledges are <i>Christs Church, Magdalens, All-Souls,</i>  St. <i>John</i>'s, <i>&amp;c. Baliol</i> Colledg was founded by a <i>Scots</i> King's father of that name, The Schools is a stately Fabrick where there is kept a most magnificent Librarie for Number of Books beyond any that ever I saw: there is besides near <i>Magdalen</i>-Colledge a <i>Physicall</i> Garden; when You resolve to goe thither Dr. <i>Moreson</i> wil recommend You to such persons as will be carefull to shew you every thing. </p>

<p> From <i>London</i> to <i>Paris</i> the best way is to goe by <i>Dover</i> and <i>Calais,</i> that you may returne by <i>Die[...]</i>  and <i>Rye,</i> except 7 you make account to returne by <i>Flanders</i> in which case I advise you rather to goe by <i>Rye</i> and <i>Deip,</i> because <i>Rouen</i> (which otherwise will not fall to be in your way) is a more considerable place and better worth the seeing, than any thing upon the way of <i>Calais.</i>  </p>

<p>For your accommodation from <i>London</i> to <i>Rye,</i> you may either take post, or enquire for the <i>Rye</i> Carrier at the Kings Head in <i>Southwark,</i> he will furnish You sadle Horses for 12. <i>sh.</i> a man, and if You have anie baggage he will carrie it at an easie rate; by this way You will arrive at <i>Rye</i> in two dayes, where You may lodge at the <i>Marmaid</i>  untill You find an Oportunitie of passage, for which if there be Passingers enough You must pay 10. <i>sh.</i> but if there be few passingers You will be obliged to pay more.</p>

<p> At <i>Deip</i> be pleased to lodge <i>A la Bastile,</i> the master of the House hath a Son that speaks <i>English,</i> and they are all verie civil people. You may see in the shops verie manie curiosities in that place, and particularlie, <i>Au Roy de la Chine;</i> The 8 Town is famous for working in <i>Ivory, Horn,</i> and <i>Tortois-shell,</i> for <i>Combs, Boxes, Dialls,</i>  and a Thousand other conceats. </p>

<p>From thence you must Hire Horse to <i>Rouen,</i> the ordinarie price is a Crown, if you have no companie you will do well to take a guide by the Land-Lords Direction; you dine at a place called <i>Tostes,</i> the first House of the village which you come at is the best.</p>

<p><i>At Rouen</i> lodge <i>Au Bon Pasteur,</i> the master is a Protestant, and speaks <i>English&#0183;</i> be pleased to take Notice in the Town, of</p>

<p>1. The Bridge on the River, which is of wood, supported by boats, and rises and falls with the Tide.</p>

<p>2. The great Church; if you will be at the pains to go to the Top of the Steeple you may [...]ave a verie good prospect of the Town and Avenues, you may also see the biggest bell in the World called the St. <i>George of Amboise.</i></p>

<p> 3. The Palace, where the Parliament Sits; the great Hall is commended for its breadth, being it is without pillars, but 9 in my opinion it comes far short of <i>Westminster</i>-Hall at <i>London.</i>  </p>

<p>There is a litle Village about half a League from the Town called <i>Santeville,</i> famous for Cream, if you please your landlord will find you a guid to conduct you thither. You may Herbarize by the way.</p>

<p>You may take the messenger to <i>Paris,</i> as being the easiest way, you pay 13. or 14. <i>Franks</i> a man, for which You are to be furnished with horse, lodging and diet to <i>Paris,</i> as al[...]o to have Six pound weight of baggage allow'd you, But if You have any more, You must pay for it beside; The last Meal which you make by the way is at <i>Po[...]to[...],</i>  where it is usuall after Dinner for every Gentlman in the company to give to the conductor a peice of 13. <i>Solds.</i></p>

<p> At <i>Paris</i> I shall advise you to lodge at Mr. <i>Haes,</i> They are very honest people, at least you may stay there untill you find the way of accommodating your self better; he lodges <i>A. Fauxbourg</i> St. <i>Germain rue de la bouchery;</i> There are so many worthie things to be seen in this place that 10 I shall only name some of them, for fear of troubling you too much, and leave the rest to your own observation. </p>

<p>1. See <i>Luxemburgh</i> palace &amp; gardens; <i>Monsieur Marchant</i> will be a fit Person, because of his aquaintance there, to wait upon you.</p>

<p>2. The Kings garden, where be sure to make a strong friendship with the Gardner; and You may command what You will of Plants or Seeds.</p>

<p>3. The Kings Library, and especialy there, the Books of Minature done by <i>Monsieur Robert,</i> which I look upon as the best curiosity of that kind in the World.</p>

<p>4. The Garden of <i>Tuilliaries.</i></p>

<p>5. Monsieur <i>Marchant</i>'s own Garden; He dwells, <i>Rue du Roy de</i> Sicile <i>devant la nostre</i> Dame <i>d' Argent, deriere le petit St.</i> Antoin; his Gard[...]n is hard by his house, and there You may see some curious <i>Plants,</i>  not to be found elsewhere in <i>France.</i></p>
<p> 6. The <i>Jesuites</i> College, where enquire for some <i>Scots</i> Father, and desire 11 him to procure you a sight of the Bibliotheck, and Mathematical House; there you will see the 3. <i>Systems</i>  of the World, according to the severall <i>Hypotheses</i> of <i>Copernicus, Tycho Brache,</i> and <i>Ptolomeus,</i> represented in Motion. </p>

<p>If You be desirous to learn <i>Chymie,</i> You may cause Monsieur <i>Marchant</i> address You to Monsieur <i>Barlet;</i> He lives <i>au College de</i> Cambray, and uses to teach Courses; It will cost you ten Crowns for the Course, and two Crownes for his Book; He demonstrates from two a clock in the Afternoon till five, and finisheth his course in three weeks. I think it might be worth your while, in regard you will hardly find the like Occasion any other where.</p>

<p>I need not say any thing of the Booksellers, being they are obvious <i>A la Rue St.</i> Jaques; for new Books at the Palace; for <i>French</i> Books, as <i>Romances,</i>  &amp;c. <i>A la Place de</i> Sorbone; as also at the End of the new bridge about <i>nostre Dame</i> church, also at the postern Gate of the Palace and upon the Mont <i>St. Hiller,</i> for old Books of all Sorts.</p>

<p> 12 Remember to cause Monsr. <i>Marchant</i>  show You a maker of Mathematical Instruments that lives <i>dans l'Isle du Palais au Key qui est vis a vis la valle des Miseres,</i> and enquire for the designing Instrument; about the same place also you may be provided of <i>Microscops</i> of al sorts; If You desire to have your own, or any other Picture done: enquire for Monsr. <i>Ferdinand, Paintre sur la Fosse an Fauxbourgs St. Germaine proche l' Academy de Monsr. du</i> Plessis, but make your bargain before Hand. </p>

<p>It will be worth your while to see some places about <i>Paris,</i> as particularlie,</p>

<p>1 <i>Maisone,</i> a very delicat House, belonging to the President of <i>Maisone,</i> &amp; standing upon the River of <i>Saine,</i> some 4. Leagues from <i>Paris;</i> From hence you must go two Leagues up the River, to</p>

<p>2 St. <i>Germaine,</i> A House belonging to the King; from thence four Leagues further a little off the River, to</p>

<p> 3 <i>Versaile,</i> A House begun by the late King, but finished by the present; It is a most delicate fine place, but (as I think) 13 there will be a Necessity of procureing an Order from the Superintendent of the House (who ordinarly resides at court) to the <i>Cons[...]erge</i>  of the House to show the same to you; From thence to </p>

<p>4 <i>Rue[...]e,</i> You have about two leagues: it is a prettie little House built by Cardinal <i>Richlieu;</i> The G[...]rdens are exceedingly prettie, and the Water-Works the best in <i>France;</i> From thence You may come to</p>

<p>5 St. <i>Clou,</i> A House belonging to the present Duke of <i>Orleans;</i> From thence on your way to <i>Paris</i> (which is not above 3 Leagues) You pass thro' a wood called <i>Bois de</i> Bologne; in which there stands a House called <i>Madrid,</i> built by <i>Francis</i> I. after His Return from <i>Spain</i>  where He had been Prisoner, to save his promise of going back to <i>Spain</i> once a year. In my time there was a Manufactorie for weaving of Silk Stockings kept there.</p>

<p>Having performed this Journey in one or at the most two days, you may with your conveniencie visit</p>

<p> 6 St. <i>Denys,</i> in the <i>Abbey</i> whereof there 14 is a famous Treasurie kept. Remember to take Nottice of <i>Charles</i> the Great's Crown, in which there is a <i>Rubie</i>  of the Bigness of a Pidgeons Egg; A large <i>Cup</i> of oriental <i>Aggat,</i> which they count much of; One of the Nails that fixed our <i>Saviour</i>'s Bodie to the Cross, sent to <i>Charles</i> the Great by <i>Constantine</i> V. Emperour of <i>Constantinople;</i>  One of the <i>Potts,</i> wherein our Saviour changed the water into wine at the Marriage of <i>Cana</i> in <i>Galilee;</i> The Pucel of <i>Orleans</i> Sword, wherewith she overcame the <i>English;</i> The Lantern that was carried before <i>Judas,</i> when He betrayed our Saviour; and a thousand other things of great Value. See the <i>Tombs</i>  likewise: You will do well to go earlie in the Morning that you may have time to speak to the Religious Men, and take their Hour of conveniencie for seing of the Treasure; which being done, you will have time enough to return to <i>Paris.</i> </p>

<p> 7 I know nothing better worth your seing about <i>Paris,</i> than the <i>Aqueduct</i> at <i>Arcqueul</i> about 2 leagues from the town, it was built by <i>Mary</i> of <i>Medices</i> in the 15 time of her Regencie, for bringing the the water to her palace of <i>Luxemborg.</i>  Besides the Aqueduct, you will also see there a verie fine Grotto with fine walks and manie prettie Jetts of water; one afternoon suffice for this Journey. </p>

<p>8. <i>Fountainbleau,</i> in which there are so manie things considerable: not only in the House, furniture, and painting; but also in the Gardens, Walks, <i>Fish</i>-ponds, and water-works, that it will be less trouble for you to observe them by seing, than by a long narration; I shall only tell you for the better improvement of your Journey thither that you will doe well first to go to</p>

<p>9. <i>Esson</i> a House seven leagues from <i>Paris</i> belonging to a private Gentleman, where you will see very fine water works and many other prettie conceats; from thence you have 3 leagues</p>

<p> 10. To <i>Durance,</i> a privat House likewise, but to which there belongs very noble gardens and walkes, with delicat Ponds and Jetts of water. It will not be a miss to stay here all the night, being 16 You will have 4 Leagues to <i>Fontainbleau,</i> a great part of which is through the Forrest, and therefore better to be gone in the morning, when the day is before Your hand, than in the evening when night may surprize You. </p>

<p> 11. You may arrive so early in the morning at <i>Fountainbleau</i>  that You may have time to see all before dinner, and thereafter returne to <i>Veau,</i> a most stately house and gardens correspondent to it, built by Monsr. <i>Fougues[...],</i> but since his disgrace it's fallen to the King: From hence you may returne a short League off your way to lodge at <i>Melun;</i> The next morning You will have an easie Journey to <i>Paris,</i> and time enough if you please to see <i>Vinceu,</i> within two short Leagues of <i>Paris.</i> It is a House belonging to the King in the middle of a verie pleasant Park: after you have seen the House emember to see the Wild Beasts that are kept not far from it. If You resolve upon making any greater toure into the counrey, I shall advise You to provide a Book called <i>le voyage de France,</i> of the latest 17 edition, which will give you a hint of the most considerable things that are to be seen in those Places you go to. I shall deferr any thing I would say further, untill I be happie to hear of Your safe arivall at <i>Paris,</i> and then I would be content to trouble you with an other sheet: in the mean time I pray for Your happie journey and safe returne. </p> </br>

<p><B>[Postscript starts here]</B> </br> Sir,

<p>I intreat You to signifie to Mr. <i>Hannay</i> as also to Mr. <i>Cranston</i> that if they have any thing to send to me, You will be pleased to take charge of it; I shall beseech You likewise to do the same by Monsr. <i>Marchant</i>  at <i>Paris.</i></p> </p>
 </br> 
 </br> </br> 
 19 </br> <H4>LETTER II.</H4> </br> <H4>Containing Advice for makeing the grand Toure of France, with an Account of what is most observable relateing especially to the Natural History and Antiquities of that Kingdom.</H4>
 </br> Sir,

<p> IT seems You are not yet resolved whither to spend the Winter in <i>Paris</i> or in the Country, my opinion is that out of <i>Paris,</i> there is litle thing either to be seen or learned in all <i>France;</i> But in regard it is pertinent for a Traveler to see some thing of the countrie as well as the chief Town: I shall therefore advise you to see those Places chieflie that I judge most suitable to your inclinations, and particularie in order to <i>Botany,</i> that is <i>Languedock</i>  and <i>Provence,</i> for altho' there be manie other places of <i>France</i> verie worthie the [...]eing, as particularlie the River 20 <i>Loyre</i> from <i>Orleance</i> downward to <i>Nantes,</i> which for the fertilitie aud beautie of the countrey, the frequencie of good Towns and gentle disposition and Courtesie of the inhabitants, is called the Garden of <i>France:</i> yet you will find that Climate produces but a few things different from <i>Normandy</i> or the <i>Isle</i> of <i>France:</i> But if you should incline to see it, my advice is that you should not spend much time in doing of it, and therefore if you think fit you may make use of the following Advice at your Discretion. </p>

<p>
 I suppose You leave <i>Paris</i> about the beginning of <i>June</i> (for I would not have you loose the Month of <i>May</i> in the Kings Garden, in regard most things will be then, or a little before, in their Prime, which now that the Garden of <i>Blois</i> is no more in Condition, is undoubtedly the best you are like to meet with) and therefore, 1. you may go to <i>Orleans</i> by the Messenger: it is but two Days Journie; Lodge <i>Chez Monsr.</i> Ogilbie, <i>sur l'[...]stape au Roy de la Grand</i> Bretaigne; A Day or two will serve you to see all 21 that is considerable in the place; It will be worth your while to see a place some two Leagues from the City, called the <i>Source,</i> where in the midst of a fair green Meadow you will see a Spring of Water so plentifull, that it is navigable from its Head, and powrs out a River called <i>Loirette. 2ly.</i> From <i>Orleans</i> to <i>Blois,</i> they count 15. Leagues, yet it is but a short Days Journie: besides if you please, you have the Commoditie of the River to go by Boat; Be pleased to take Notice of a place by the Way, some 4. Leagues from <i>Blois,</i> called St. <i>Die,</i> where the best <i>Claret</i> in that Countrie grows, and is ordinarly to be found. <i>Blois</i> of itself is no very considerable Town, yet it is famous for makeing of <i>Watches,</i>  for the Civilitie of the People, for the Sweetness of the Air, and Puritie of the <i>French</i> Language. You must stay there some Days till you have seen the following Particulars; <i>viz.</i> in one day you may get to <i>Chambort,</i> a house belonging to the King, some three leagues off, on the south side of the River, and South-East from the Town; It is said to 22 have been built by King <i>Francis</i> I. and is a very statelie House, though of a far different Order of <i>Architecture</i> than what is now used. From thence you may go to <i>Herbeau,</i> 3. Leagues to the southward of that, a privat house belonging to a Gentleman that beares the title thereof. It is a very pleasant seat having very fine Gardens with an Orangery, Fish-Ponds, Woods, Maille and Meadowes belonging to it; from thence you may go to <i>Bean-Regard</i> another privat house, where amongst other prettie things you will see a fine Gallerie well ornamented with the pictures of such persons as have been illustrious for some age; from thence you returne to <i>Blois</i> at night, &amp; as you go and come you will have occasion to see that part of the forrest of <i>Blois</i> that lyes to the South of the River and town; as also a litle village called St. <i>Gervais,</i> famous over all that countrey for excellent Cream; being returned to <i>Blois,</i> you may take notice of the Castle, as also of the Garden which is now <i>Seges ubi Troja;</i> the keeper of it is Dr. <i>Brumer</i>  23 my very good acquantance, and sometimes one of the Herbarists to the late Duke of <i>Orleans,</i> as were also Monsr. <i>Morison</i> and Monsr. <i>Marchand;</i> upon any of whose accounts or yet upon mine, I am confident You will be very welcom to him; I believe You may as yet see some Plants in the Garden, from thence walk towards the <i>Capucins</i> or the mount, and you will have a delicat prospect both up &amp; down the river; from thence walk towards the <i>Alleys</i>  which you will possibly find to be the finest in length and breadth, and being well planted on either side, that you have hitherto seen; You may chuse whither You will see <i>Vendosme</i> or not, it being a place not verie considerable except for the Holy Tea[...]e, which is preserved in the Cathedrall Church with much veneration, and which people go to see out of devotion; the toun is famous for makeing of Gloves which are accounted the best of that countrey; upon the returne from that place You may see the Fountain of <i>Orchaise,</i> of old <i>Horrcum Caesaris</i> (for some where not far from thence 24 the <i>Roman</i> legion was said to be quartered) <i>I</i> take the fountain to be nothing else but a rivulet or litle burn falling over the Top of a soft Rock into which by process of time it hath cut in a considerable way thro' the whole deepth of it, and being grown together upon the Top, it seems now to spring out of the Rock; over against that, cross a meadow, you must take notice of a Cave or Hole digged in the side of a litle hill in which there is an Aromatick kind of Earth, not much inferiour as is believed to the <i>Terra Sigillatae</i> of <i>Lemnos;</i> the common people call the place <i>La cave de la terre Sigille.</i>  </p>

<p> And here I must put you in mind that in this same meadow I have very often seen very large green <i>Lizards,</i> which because it is a beautifull creature and not found with us, I must intreat you where ever you find of them to cause preserve 1 or 2, to add to my <i>Tradescants.</i> I know not which will be the best way of preserving them, whither by skinning them, or drying the flesh, but I suppose the best way will be (especially if the skin be any 25 thing strong) to cause skin them, preserving the head feet and taile, and then stop the Skin with Flax. There are likewise severall other Birds in <i>France</i> which are not common with us, which I must earnestly intreat you to do the same by, as for example the <i>Pie verte</i> or Green Pyet, <i>&amp;c.</i>  </p>

<p><i>3ly.</i> from <i>Blois</i> you go to <i>Amboise</i> in half a day by water; the boat will give you libertie to see the Castle; in the Chapell whereof will be shown You hanging a pair of Hornes, they say, of a Hart, the largest and biggest (if they be true) that ever was seen In the court of the Castle there is likewise to be seen a Rib, and one of the Back-Bones of the same <i>Animal,</i> You are brought out of the Castle by a Toure whose descent is so large and so easie, being without Steps, that a Coach may drive from the Bottome to the Top thereof. From thence You go <i>Tours</i> all Night, where</p>

<p> <i>4ly.</i> In my time the best Lodging was <i>A la</i> St. <i>Marthe;</i> the place is commended for the Sweetness of it's Situation, the 26 delicacie of it's Fields and Gardens, and many other Particulars. It will be worth Your while to see the Manufactories of Silk, especially the way of working Tissenes, and Brocarts, which You will see of diverse Colours and some of Gold and Silver. The invention and way of making Tabbies, which I forbear to descrive, because You will abundantly discover it by sight. You must be at the pains to fetch a walk out of town a litle way to see the <i>Maille,</i> which in any time was the longest and in the best order of any in <i>France;</i> and at the same time, you may go the length of the <i>Minims Convent</i> because the first instituter of their Order St. <i>Francois de paul,</i>  lyes Buried in the Church in a marble <i>Coffine,</i> as will be shown You, which People visit with great Veneration: if you will be at the pains to pass the River there is an ascent to the <i>Capucins</i> whence you may discover the whole City, and a great part of the Countrey about, which for it's Beauty and Fertility is called the <i>Gardin</i> of <i>France.</i> and certainly deserves that Name better than any Place upon 27 the whole River of <i>Loir.</i> There is likewayes not far from <i>Tours,</i> a Place which they call <i>la cave Gutiere,</i> From the Top of which there drops a Liquor which Congeals into a substance almost as hard as a stone not much unlike that you sent me from <i>Hamiltoun.</i>  </p>

<p> <i>5ly.</i> You may go from <i>Tours</i> to <i>Saumure</i> a town famous for it's Protestant University, of which we have two very honest countrey-men that are members, Monsr. <i>Doule</i> and Monsr. <i>Gray.</i> You may take the pains to see <i>Nostre damo d' Ardeliers</i> a Place of great devotion; if you please you may see the Treasurie which is Rich, and as you go and come, you may observe the great Trade of that Suburbs, to be making of Beads or Chaplets; I beseech you forget not to bring us some that are made of young Oranges: If you please you may see the Castle. At <i>Saumure</i> you must hire Horses to make a litle tour of three days, and first you must go to <i>Doue,</i>  where there is to be seen an ancient <i>Amphitheatre</i> cut out 28 of a Rock, as it is said, by the <i>Romans.</i> There are likewise verie many great quarries of free stone and the Workmen often find in cleaving of the stones, some litle peices of a finer and harder substance by farr than the rest, which from the shape they have, They comonly call <i>Langues de Serpents.</i> The little Boys for a small matter will sell you abundance of them which I pray forget not to buy, If not for your own, at least for your friends curiositie. From thence you must go to <i>Thouars,</i> a most delicate House belonging to the Duke of <i>Tremoville,</i> it is situat upon a Rock, and the greatest part of the office houses cut out of the Solid Rock. The next Morning you go to <i>Waren,</i> a verie prettie House but not much worth the pains of seeing were it not in Your way to <i>Richlieu,</i>  where you are to spend the rest of that day, That you may have the more time to view the Toun and House, which I think so well worthie your seeing, That for it's sake a Journey from <i>Paris</i> that length were not ill bestowed. I shall say no more of 29 of it, that I may not deprive you of the <i>Gusto</i> of being surprized with the Beautie of it. Amongst other things be pleased to take notice of two Marble statues that stand over the Gate, at the upper end of the inner Court, as also of a peece of painting in the Chapell, that was left by way of Legacie to the <i>Cardinall</i> by Monsieur <i>de Mont Morency,</i> when he was Beheaded at <i>Thoulouse.</i> There are two Books the one in 40. the other in 80. containing the Figure of the House, and parts thereof; they are sold, as I take it, by the Porter, of whom I intreat you to buy them for me. </p>

<p> The third day you may Dine at <i>Loudun</i> where in my time there was a Religious Woman, that had been formerly Possessed. At the time of her cure which they say was Miraculous there was found Written on her hand <i>JESVS MARIA JOSEPH,</i> which still remained indelible. If she be yet alive you May see it. From thence you returne by <i>Shinon,</i> where they say the famous <i>Francis Rablais</i> had his first breeding in an old convent, 30 From thence you pass throw Most delicate Meadows called the <i>Valey</i>  of <i>Shinon,</i> and in your way to <i>Saumure</i> some three Leagues from the Town you may see a Monasterie of Religious Women whereof the Lady <i>Abbas</i> in my time was the Queen-Mothers Sister of Great <i>Brittain.</i> </p>

<p><i>6ly.</i> You may hire horses to <i>La Fleche,</i> where the only thing considerable is the <i>Jesuits</i>  Colledge. It is a most noble Structure, and by far the best they have in France. Take Particular notice of their Church where the heart of <i>Henry</i> the <i>4th</i> who gave them that House is kept: The Bibliotheck: The Theatre-hall: their Office houses, particularly the Kitchen; the Bake-house, where one Man and a Dog makes bread for all the Colledge every day: the Myln where the Water that moves the Wheele doeth likewise move a Pump that furnisheth water to the whole Colledge. The best lodging was <i>Au quatre Vents.</i> From hence you must again take horse to <i>Angiers.</i></p>

<p> <i>7ly</i> It is a Town famous for the Profession of Laws, and hath likewise a 31 Faculty of Physick: See the great Church called St. <i>Maurice,</i> and therein one of those pots in which our <i>Saviour</i> converted the water into Wine at the Marriage of <i>Cana</i> in <i>Galile.</i>  See the <i>Maill,</i> and at the end of it next the town the <i>Minims Convent.</i> You will find in their Garden severall Kinds of <i>Ilex;</i> You will likewise find in severall places of the Countrey not far from the Town severall sorts of <i>Pinastres,</i> as also a kind of Fruit tree called <i>Cormes,</i> not mnch unlike our Raun-tree, the Fruit whereof hangs in Clusters like our <i>Roddens:</i> but of an other colour, and bigness every one being as big as a Plumb. A League or two from the town towards the East, are the <i>Pierries</i> or quarries, of blew Skleat called <i>Ardoise</i> which serve the greatest part of <i>France:</i> See the Castle, and in it that famous crib where <i>Rene</i> King of <i>Sicilie</i>  and Duke of <i>Anjou</i> imprisoned his Queen out of Jealousie all the days of her life. About half a League distant from the town, doun the River stands a Convent called <i>Bamet,</i> worthie of seeing; 32 there is likewise on the other side of the River an old Abbacie called <i>Les Bons Hommes,</i> near to which there is a litle lake, which I suppose to have been the place where the blew Sklate was dug of old; you will find about the sides of it, aboundance of <i>Tribulus aquaticus,</i> the Fruit thereof is ripe in the Moneth of <i>August;</i> they use to Boyll them and Sell them as they do <i>Chasnuts,</i> from which they differ not much in Tast or Quality, but verie much in Figure, and therefore be pleased to provide a Quantitie of them for your self and Friends. You may likewise dry the Plant, if you think fit. </p>

<p> <i>8ly</i> You May go If you please from <i>Angiers</i> to <i>Nantes</i> either by Water or by Land, in one day; It is a prettie town and stands upon the <i>Loir</i> and the Sea flowing up above the town gives Commodity to Ships of a considerable Burden to come up to the Town. It is here that the greatest part of the Wines that grow upon this River or near to it, together with the Brandie made thereof, which are carried out of <i>France,</i> are Imbarked. 33 You must return again to <i>Angiers,</i>  and from thence to <i>Paris</i> with the Messenger. It is a Journey of five days, and all that I know considerable in it, is first, That when You come near to <i>Mans</i> (which you will leave at a Leagues Distance, upon the Le[...]t Hand) You will find in aboundance a Kind of <i>Cistus,</i> not mentioned by any that I know of, except <i>Petrus Bellonius.</i> Forget not to preserve a Branch or two, which You may Fold in your <i>Portefoile,</i> which for such rancounters you'l do well to be stil Provided of, and You may cause make them of what Bigness You please, and have them furnished with <i>Gray Paper</i> within. I did allways use to Carry one of a 40 Form, with good Tyers to it in a <i>Carpet</i> Bag (such as they use in <i>France</i>) tyed to the Tore of my Saddle, so that if it was My Fortune to Meet with any thing by the Way worth the Gathering, I could easily take it and preserve it with out being in Danger to Loss my Companie. <i>2ly.</i> The Town of <i>Chartres;</i> in the great Church whereof (which is a 34 most stately Fabrick) K. <i>Henry</i> IV. was Sacred. It is a Place of great Devotion, and there is kept in it amongst other Relicts, one of our <i>Ladys</i> smocks. You wil meet with several litle shops near to the <i>church,</i> where the chief Trade is <i>Beads,</i>  and as they call them <i>des Chemises de Chartres,</i> which Devout People Buy and append to their Chaplets, and then get them to Touch the Relicts, according to the Custom. </p>

<p> You may furnish this Journey, and have Time enough at <i>Paris</i> to Prepare your Self for the Journey to <i>Provence</i> and <i>Languedock</i>  before the <i>Dog-Days</i> be ended, at which Time it will be fit to begin your Journey. And <i>1st.</i> You may take the Messenger to <i>Lions;</i> I think You must Pay about twentie Crowns; for the Journey is of nine Days; There are not many things considerable to be seen by the way; only take Notice <i>1st</i> at <i>Nevers</i>  of the Glass-Works, and <i>Faiance,</i> or white Lame-works, of which the best in <i>France</i> are here. <i>2ly.</i> At <i>Mouline</i> (where you will fall to Dine) [...]quire for the 35 monasterie where the body of Monsr. <i>de Monmorancy</i>  is in[...]erred, You may see a very stately Monument of Marble. The Town is famous for the Manufactorie of Knives and Scissers. You will not miss to be troubled with a company of Women, who wait upon the arrivall of Strangers, to show them quantities of this kind o[...] ware in hopes to Sell some. 3ly. Take notice of the Well of <i>Pouge,</i> the water is Alummous and boills up in great quantity, of a whiteish colour, as if there were meal mixed with it. 4ly. <i>Roane;</i> which is said to be the largest Bourg in <i>France:</i> they call that Bourg which is not incompassed with wall or ditch. The <i>Loir</i>  begins to be Portable here and cary Boats, But it's source is many Leagues higher. 5ly. <i>Mont tarare;</i> It is a very great Hill, and here You will find a change of the climate together with the change of Plants, which I leave to Your observation, and think it will be worth Your while at night to make a note of all those Plants that You meet with. Being arrived at <i>Lions</i> You must stay some 36 time to see the place, which altho' in regard of its situation amongst Hils and Rivers, it be somewhat unwholsome, the Air, being either too moist, or in Summer t[...]o hot; yet I look upon it as one of the best and most important Towns in <i>France,</i> both for the magnificknesse of the Buildings, the great tra[...]ique it hath with almost all Places of the World, to which the situation of it betwixt two Rivers, the <i>Soane</i> and the <i>Rhosne</i>  is no small advantage; for by the <i>Soane</i> it hath Communion not only with <i>Burgundie,</i> but also with the <i>Ocean;</i> for <i>Chalon</i> which stands upon the <i>Soane,</i> is but a days Journey from <i>Auxere,</i>  which stands upon the <i>Saine,</i> and that River you know disimbogues it self in the <i>Ocean</i> at <i>Haver[...]degrace.</i> By the <i>Rhosne,</i> it hath communion with the Mediterranean Sea, and consequently, with all the <i>Levant.</i> The <i>Soane</i> in Latine <i>Araris</i> is a Pleasant and very soft flowing River; the <i>Rhosne</i>  is <i>Fluviorum Rapidissimus.</i> The people are very ingenious and dextrous in the matter of traffick and business, they 37 are likeways courteous &amp; human, your most convenient Lodging, will be <i>Auxtrois-Rois:</i> It is a good House and nea[...] to the place where the Messenger of <i>Paris</i>  arrives. As also to the Post-House. Remember to see the <i>Maisone-de-Villo</i> which without exception is the most stately in <i>France:</i> Take particular notice of its Fabrick, Statues, Paintings, and ancient Inscriptions, of which some are extant upon Brass, its Fountain's, courts, &amp;c. 2. See the great Church of St. <i>John,</i> and in it a most Stately and Curious Clock, upon the upper part of which, i[...]mediately before the hour strike, the blessed <i>Virgine</i> appears with the <i>Angel</i> before her, as she uses to be represented at the <i>Annunciation,</i> and within a little, a Cock upon the top claps his Wings and Crows, and then the hour strikes. There is likeways considerable in it, a Hand that points the minut of the hour upon the O[...]al, and altho' the parts of an Oval line, be not equally distant from the center yet the Hand which is fixed in the center, doth alwayes reach 38 that line and never exceed it, in the whole compase it maketh. <i>3ly.</i> There is an Old Monument about the midle of that <i>Fauxbourgh,</i>  by which the Messenger of <i>Paris</i> enters they call it <i>Tombeau-de-deux Amants.</i> It seems to be of <i>Roman</i> antiquitie. 4ly, See the Bishops House &amp; and Gardens, the great Place before it, the Bridge over the <i>Rhosne:</i> And in short consider the Avenues and Compass of the Town. </p>

<p>5ly. Forget not to take with you your Catalogue of Books, for there are many Booksellers in this Place, that have great Magazins of Books, and have great traffick with all <i>Germany, Swizerland</i> and <i>Italy,</i> and it is very like, you may come by Books here that you missed of at <i>Paris;</i> For so it happened to my self.</p>

<p> I must not omit in this place to tell you that it will be expedient, to draw your Money from <i>Paris,</i> to <i>Lions,</i>  either by Bill of Ex-change, or Letter of credit, upon some honest, substantiall Merchant, to whom yon must be sure to yet good Recommendation: By his means 39 you may return your Money, to any other place as you shall have occasion, and likeways be furnished with new recommendations as you desire; &amp; this way you may make your Money march from place to place, without fear or danger; and if you light upon honest Men the Exchange will cost you nothimg, unless it be from <i>Paris</i> to <i>Lions;</i> because of the disrance and that will not be above half a one <i>per-Cent:</i> Your Merchant at <i>Lions,</i> will be a convenient Steple for receiving your Letters, or any thing else, that you please to send from any other place, and to send it forward to <i>Paris,</i> to be keept for you. By them you shall give advice to receive it from the Carriers, or otherways to the Merchant, that returnes your Money to <i>Lions:</i>  But of these things I have said enough, for I doubt not that you are sufficiently informed of them already. </p>

<p> From <i>Lions,</i> you take Boat to <i>Avignion,</i> which is about fi[...]tie Leagues: if the River be not very low, which seldom happeneth, you would go near to accomplish 40 it, in two days and a half, or three at most. </p>

<p> You have to take notice of, by the way <i>1st. Vienne,</i> a little but ancient Town, five Leagues from <i>Lions.</i> See the forges where they make Sword-blades, the Haminers are moved by a Wheell which the Water turns, so that the Stroakes are both frequent and equall. The Town hangs upon the side of a Hill toward the River. 2ly. some nine Leagues from <i>Vienne,</i> there is an old Castle called <i>Le Maisone de Pillate,</i> the place is no otherways considerable than for having been the retreat of <i>Pontius Pilate,</i>  driven here, by, God knows, what accident. 3ly. <i>Valence,</i> a Pretie Town only considerable for its University. 4ly. <i>Le Pont-Sanct-Esprite</i> seventeen Leagues lower than <i>Valence,</i> the Town is not very considerable, but only for the Bridge, from whence it takes its name, and which at that place stands upon the <i>Rhosne;</i> that which renders the Bridge so considerable, is the breadth of the River, and Impetuosity of the current; for besides other small Rivers, both the 41 <i>Soane</i> and the <i>Isere,</i> a little before You come at <i>Valence,</i> and several others below that, loss themselves therein. </p>

<p> When you come at <i>Avignion,</i> You may lodge at <i>Louxenbourg.</i> The Town and Country belongs to the <i>Pope,</i> whose Legate resides in Quality of Governour. It will be fitting to stay here some Days, that You may the better take Notice of the following Particulars. 1. The Churches and Religious Houses. <i>2ly.</i> The Legat's Palace. <i>3ly.</i> The Situation, and <i>Avenues</i>  of the Town, together with the Walls thereof, which are high and stately, and it will be worth Your while to go about them in regard of the Occasion You will have to Herbarize, for here you will find many Plants that did not appear in any other part of your Journey. <i>4ly.</i> The <i>Jurie</i> or <i>Cantone</i> of the Town where the <i>Jewes</i> dwell, I advise You by all means if You can stay of a <i>Saturday</i> to see their <i>Synagogue</i> and manner of Worship, and if you be Curious and make Enquiry, You may possibly see a <i>Circumcision. 5ly.</i> You may hire Horse[...]  42 to <i>Orange,</i> which is but half a days Journie up the River. The Town and Principality belongs to the Prince of <i>Orange;</i> It is an ancient, tho' little Town; It was considerable in My time for the Castle, which was very Strong, both by Art, and by its natural Situation, which was so high, that from thence one might have discovered seven or eight Provinces about, at least some part o[...] them: the Town hath an [...]niversity tho' not very considerable; The inhabitants for the most part are Protestants. There are yet extant some Monuments of antiquitie, <i>viz</i> a Triumphal <i>Arch</i> a lttle without the Town, and some ruins of a Theatre within the Town, both of which shows something of the <i>Roman</i> Greatness, in Respect of Modern Times; The Coun[...]ry about is fertile, and there are whole [...]lds of [...]a[...]ron. I think it might be well worth the while to enquire about the best way of P[...]anting, cultivating, gathering and preparing o[...] it. Having seen these thing and Dyned, You return to Your Lodging at <i>Avignion</i>  the same 43 day. The next day you take Horses for <i>Aix,</i> which is about two days Journey or two days and a half a most. If You depart from <i>Avignion</i> early in the morning You will have time enough to see <i>Vauclus,</i> which is three Leagues from <i>Avignion</i> and then to go Dine at <i>Cavaillion.</i>  I look upon <i>Vaucluse</i> as one of the most considrable things I have ever seen: it is a fountain at the foot of a great Rock very Large and [...]f immense deepness, which poures out so much Water as to Move four or five Milnes about half a Mile below. It is observed that the Water Diminishes and increases according to the season of the Year. In rainy Weather it abounds most, and Yet when you consider the position of it, how much it is elevated above the plain, and what vast hills and Rocks are about it, It is not conceaveable with what other Water&#0183; it should have any communion. The River that comes from it tumbles over so many stones and Craigs; that it makes a noise like the <i>Catarracks,</i> and having neer three quarters of a Mile to 44 fall, it becomes exceeding swift before it arrive the Plain, and there divides it self in two, and incloses a litle Meadow in Form of an Isle, and then joyns again. The Water is so Clear, finding nothing among the Rocks to Defile it, that notwithstanding its Swiftness, yet it hinders not the grass to grow in it's bed. The Fiver is likewise recomended for excellent Trouts and Crawfish and it is agreeable to Reason they should be good that live in so pure streams; When You come the length of the Mil[...]s you must quite Your Horse, to walk up [...]o the <i>Sour[...]e,</i>  &amp; and for that [...] must take a guide, without which the way is not easie. As You go up you will observe upon the other side, in two other places, the Ruins of two old Castles, the one standing about a Musket shot higher than the other, in the uppermost whereof did sometimes live that Noble Philosopher, and Poet <i>Franciscus P[...]trarcha</i> and in the lower <i>Donna Laura</i> his Mistriss, in the praise of whose beautie and vertue he composed his most excelent <i>Triumfe d' Amore;</i>  45 a Monument that hath outlasted her familie, in which her Memorie is like to live as long as Wit and Learning continues in reputation. You may also in this place take notice of the Paper-Milns and consider that so usefull art of makeing Paper, and labour to informe yourself well of all the particulars that when GOD shall be pleased to return you, you may make it Practicable in your own Countrey. I am sure we want not Linnen rags in abundance which might be preserved for this use, and not thrown into the Dunghill's, were people put once in the right way. </p>

<p>From hence you go to Dine at <i>Cavaillion;</i> in the rest of the Journey to <i>Aix,</i> there is nothing considerable, only you have a River to pass by boat called <i>Durance. Aix,</i> is one of the most delicate Towns in <i>France,</i> It's the Capitall City of <i>Provence</i> and the seat of a Parliament. The streets are large, especialy one great street, the Buildings fair and stately, The City well watered and the Air very healthfull and Sweet.</p>

<p> 46 From hence you go to <i>Marseilles</i> in half a day, you may lodge at <i>a l' Aigle</i> or <i>al' teste noire.</i> You must resolve to stay two or three days at least, for the more commodious seeing and observing the following things. <i>1st.</i> the Harbory or Port, which is very spicious and deep, and exceedingly well guarded, having upon he entrie thereof to the Sea ward, which is very narrow, not only a chain drawn, but also a very strong Citidale, built within these seven or eight years, upon the one side o[...]  it, and an other [...]ort upon a litle Island within the Sea, at a leagues distance from the entrie, all which rendreth it most secure from the <i>Algiers</i> and <i>T[...]n[...]ies</i> Men of Warr and other Pyrats. <i>2ly.</i> the Cathedrall Church, which you may easily guesse to be very ancient, from the Modell and Architectu[...]e thereof. It was first extructed in the honor of <i>Digna</i> by the <i>Greek Phocenses,</i> who had a Colonie here. <i>3ly.</i> Take notice in the [...] before the Church upon the wall looking to the Sea, of nine or ten large Brass Guns, which use upon the 47 day of the Towns great Festivitie (which is sometime in <i>October</i>) to be loaden with Bull and discharged by so many of the best gunners of the Town, a[...]ter great Mass is ended, at a white mark placed on the Side of the hill, on the other side of the Harbour. He that shoots nearest the Mark is esteemed the best Gunner for that year. They begin to fire just as the <i>Arch-Bishop</i> comes out of the Church. Who having celebrated Mass in <i>Pontificalibu[...],</i>  returnes to his own Hous[...] accompanied with the Consul and chief Magistrats of the Place, and generally a[...]l the Gentlemen &amp; citizens of the best fashion, in their best apparell and a great consort of Musick. <i>4ly. Nostre dame de la gard,</i> a Castle upon the Top of the Hill to the Southward of the Town, in in the going thither, you will do well to bestow a whole day, and take with you a couple of Souldiers, from the Citidale, or else a Couple of other Souldiers armed at least with Swords, and let one of them cary a couple of botles o[...] Wine with bread and what else you think fit, 48 as provision for that day, the other may cary a Basket with you emptie, being thus accourted, you may Herbarize upon the way to the Castle, and put a litle quantitie of every Herb you find into your emptie basket, the better to judge of it at your return; as also of what Seeds you find you may put up some for your own and friends use, you may returne by the way of the Sea, and so Herbarize all thereabouts. It is a most excellent place for Varietie of Plants, amongst the rest take particular notice of the <i>Tarto[...]rair Massiliensium,</i> upon the Sea side you may likewise take notice, what Stones or shells, Mosses or any other naturall curiosities you can observe, &amp; if any be worth the preserving bring them along with you. <i>5ly</i> I would have you bestow half a day in a boat upon the Sea without the Harbour, but so as it be very calm, for then you will easily se the botom of the Water, especially where it is not very deep, because the Water hath no Motion of ebbing or flowing, and so you may possibly 49 light upon curiosities worth the gathering, for the taking up of which, you must provide Creepers, which the Seamen know how to use. <i>6ly.</i> Take notice of the situation Fabrick, and Avenues of the Town, especially some Shops upon the Shoare, where you will find many curiosities, especially from the <i>Levant.</i> I must recommend my self to you here, but especially for a good handsome Tree of red Corall; as also one of those that are black, but are not true Corall, and what else you think fit; I shall hold you good accompt, for all expenses; you may send them with your own things to <i>Lions,</i>  with Order to your Friend there to send them to <i>Paris,</i> to be received by your Factor and keept for you. <i>7ly.</i> The Place is commended for perfumes, sweet-Powders, <i>Franchipane</i>-Gloves, &amp;c. But there is great cheating both in the Prices and Quantities of the things; therefore take heed to your self, if you buy any of them: I did formerly forget to tell you that <i>Avignion</i> is famous for the same things, but especially for Gloves; whereof the Manufactorie 50 is very good; and Essences. But now I return to <i>Marsails</i> where <i>8ly.</i> Take occasion frequently to view the Fish-market, where you will not miss to see great variety of strange Fishes well worth the observing, and for that end I wish you to acquaint your self with the <i>Icones Piscium,</i> together with their description, by <i>Petrus Bellonius,</i> it is in a Long 80. and not very thick, &amp; therefore you may take it along with you from <i>Pari.</i> If any of these Fishes which are not common with us can be preserved or keept any way; as I doubt not but you will find inventions to do it, you will exceedingly oblidge us to bring them along with you, or send them as said is: Be pleased to enquire <i>ches les Espiciers</i> for a kind of Seed which they call <i>Graine d' Avignion,</i>  they sell it in great quantity to Dyers who use it for Dying Yellow; it is the <i>Lycium Gallicum Dalechampij;</i> It is a Shrub not common here, nor yet in the North of <i>France,</i> and therefore worth the taking notice of; I would have you bring us some quantity of the graine 51 for a Show about an ounce or so: But because I suspect, that which the Grossers sell is dryed; therefore I think it will be more profitable to search at <i>Avignion,</i> where it grows plentifully, for some that is better conditioned for your own use. In your herborization at <i>Marsaills</i> especially upon the Hill, amongst other rare Plants, you will find <i>Mypum Montis Ceti, sive herba terribilis Narb[...]n[...]nsium Lobelij.</i> </p>

<p><i>9ly.</i> Take a view of the Country about <i>Marsaills</i> from some eminent Place, especially east from the Town, where the fertility is so great and the Country-Houses, and Gardens, so thick, that they use to call it the <i>Suburbs</i> o[...] <i>Marsaills,</i> and say merrily, that <i>Marsaills</i> and its suburbs is bigger than <i>Paris:</i> The great conveniencie of these Houses is to acc[...]mmodat the Citizens with a retireing Place, in time of Plague, as also to divert themselves in Summer, and to provide necessars for House keeping.</p>

<p> At <i>Marsaills</i> you must hire Horses to <i>Frayole,</i> which is some three dayes Journey 52 east ward toward <i>Neice;</i> In this Journey, besides the things of Pleasure you will see in this higher <i>Provence,</i> you will have the best herborization, almost all the way, that you can possibly desire; you must part from <i>Marsaills</i> early in the morning, that you may have the more time to herbarize by the way, &amp; that you may arrive in good time before it be Night at <i>Saincte Beaume,</i> a Place of much Devotion, and the greatest Solitude in the World. In the midle of a vast and terrible Rock, there is a great cave where St. <i>Maria Magdalen</i>  did pennance for many years before her Death: it's now upon that consideration turned into a Chapell, with some few Rooms clacht up against the face of a Rock, like a Bird cage upon the side of a Wall, where some Religious Men (as I think <i>Jacobins</i>) keep the Place, and serve the cure in the Chapel every Day receiving confessions, &amp; giving the Sacraments to such as require them. There is a little kind of a chainge-house close to it, that provides Meat for Men and Horses, at 53 their own expences, but you mnst lye within the convent; in the morning you must take a Guide to the Top of the Craig, where there is an other Chapel of Devotion just in that Place where the Angels did use once a Day, to carrie the <i>Saincts,</i> from the cave to administer consolation to her. As you go and come you may herbarize, for the whole side of the Hill before you come at the Rock, is a Wood: Upon your Arrival at the convent it is expedient to give some little thing out of Charity, which I think is bestowed in maintaining the place. You will ordinarly find without the Chapel Door, some few little Merchants that sell Reads, and amongst other things, Silk-Cords of the just length and greatnes of the <i>Saint,</i> all which People use to buy and carrie in to the Chapel, there to touch the Statue of the <i>Sainct;</i> which l[...]es just in that Place, and in that Posture, that she used to do pennance in; you will likeways see within the Chapel a very Large Well of good Water, which they say did first spring there by miracle, for 54 use of the <i>Sainct.</i>  From hence you take Horses to <i>Sainct Maximine,</i> a little Town, in the great Church whereof, amongst other reliques, the Body of St. <i>Maximine,</i> Uncle to St. <i>Mary Magdalen,</i> &amp; sometimes Bishop of <i>Marsaills,</i> is preserved: If you please you may take this opportunity of seeing it, and there dyne, for it is a little out of your way to <i>Brignole,</i>  where you must lye the second Night, and the Day following you Dine at a Village called <i>Luques,</i> and then go to lye ae <i>Frayote,</i> or <i>Freust,</i> which you please to call it. Its a Town of <i>Roman</i> antiquity, of which there are yet some rests to be seen, as aqueducts, &amp;c. The Town is not otherways considerable at all; you will do well here, besides your own Guide that goes along with you to take another Man from the Town, with an emptie Basket, to wait upon you to the Hil, called <i>Astral,</i> about a League from the Town, where you will have one of the most pleasant Heborizations in the World: Amongst a great variety of Shrubs, Plants, and Trees, 55 you will find a great Number of <i>Arbutus,</i>  loaden with Fruit, of a most Beautifull aspect; yet, somewhat insipid to the taste, It may safely be eaten, but doth not much allure the taste. Several kind of Spinous Shrubs, amongst which <i>Acaeia Secunda Dioscorides</i> sive <i>Aspalathus,</i> when you come upon the Top of the Hil, upon the way to <i>Neice,</i> there is an <i>Inn,</i> where you may make a Shift for Dinner, and a little beyond it, upon the North-side of the Hil, you will meet with aboundance of Cork-Trees, <i>Ilex, Abics, Picca,</i> &amp;c. </p>

<p> I must give you notice here, that in this place, you are not, above two or three hours ryding, from <i>Cane,</i> a Village, upon the Sea-side, some eight or nine Leagues distant from <i>Neice,</i> where (were you to go to <i>Italy,</i>) you might commodiously hire a <i>Fel[...]oque</i>  of two Oares a side for <i>Genova,</i> and arrive there in four or five days, <i>Ter a Terre,</i> that is Landing every Day to your Dinner, and to your Lodging, in some convenient Town: But I shall say nothing of <i>Italy,</i> untill I understand 56 from your self, that you have a design for it. </p>

<p>I shall therefore returne to <i>Astrate,</i> where having satisfied your self, with herbarizing you may returne to <i>Freiust;</i> loaden with Seeds, and Plants, and there consider them at your ease: From thence you may return to <i>Marseills</i>  in two days and so to <i>Avignion,</i> by the way of <i>Arles, Sainct Eloy de Cro[...] Tarascon.</i> At <i>Arles,</i> remember to see the entry into a great Passage all Vaulted, which they say goes under the <i>Rhosne</i>  to <i>Nismes,</i> &amp; was made by the <i>Romans.</i> At <i>Tarascon,</i> you will see on the other side of the River <i>Bea[...]caire,</i>  most famous for a very great Faire or Market, keept there once a Year, to which great Numbers of Merchants from many Places of the <i>Levant,</i> do resort.</p>

<p> From <i>Avignion,</i> you go [...]o <i>Nismes,</i> but you must part by times in the morning that you may have the conveniencie to see <i>Pont de Gard,</i>  which is one of the finest Peeces of Antiquity extant in the World. It is a Part of that A 57 Aqueduct, which the <i>Romans</i> built for conveying a part of the water of the <i>Rhosne</i> from the <i>Pont</i> St. <i>Esprite</i> to <i>Nismes,</i> &amp; because at the Place where the Bridge stands, the River <i>Gard</i>  runs low betwixt two Hills, there was a necessity of raising the Aqueduct so high as to level the Tops of these Hils, therefore it hath three Ranges of <i>Arches,</i> the lowermost are the biggest but fewest in number; they are likeways the broadest, for besides that they support the second row of <i>Arches,</i> they do likeways serve on the other side for a Passage and Bridge for foot, Horse&#0183; and coaches to the high-way: The second supports the third, which are not so high, but many more in number, on the Top of all is the Aqueduct five or six foot broad, and four or five foot deep, it is compassed with great Flag Stones on all sides, exceedingly well cemented together, insomuch that I beleeve it be yet very intire, except it be some few of the covering Stones that are broak and fallen away. </p>

<p> <i>Nismes</i> is some three Leagues, but 58 they are long ones, from the <i>Pont de Gard;</i>  And I must tell you, altho' the way you are to follow from <i>Avignion</i> to <i>Nismes,</i> by the <i>Pont de Gard,</i> be for the most part very barren, yet you will find the Weeds for the most part are, <i>Cistum ledum Narbonense, thime, lavender, Satureia, mirtles, timelaea, corranda, Smilax aspera, Lentiscus, Terebinthinus, Staebe Salamantica, caliculis argenteis B. Ilex, Sabina baccifera, Iunip: fructu majori, Cistus mas, Cistus faemina, thymum cephaloton</i> </p>

<p> Clematis, vel flammula repens, aespalathus&#0183; phyllarelea Folio non serrata, Jesiminum luteum bacciferum, Stellaria argente[...] Ambrosia campestris, datura simplici calice albo, aster attious foliolis ad florem rigidis, aster lunariae folio, flore trifolij. Jacea cianoides flore albo folio multifido, trifolium bituminosum, acarna lutea, Eringium luteum monspel: bicopsis flore carnec, Carduus Spharocephalus ceruleus, amaranthus viridis, campanula flore plumeo, attriplex non descript[...] Semine singulari 59 binis foliolis incluso, Linaria minor lutea, paliurus <i>and a great many more that I cannot remember of; but it will be well worth the while to take a Note of the Plants you find in every Place.</i> </p>

<p> At <i>Nismes</i> you must lodge <i>Aux Arenes;</i> you will see there a brave Amphitheatre built by the <i>Romans,</i> in greater integritie yet than any that ever I saw in <i>Italy,</i> the Stones of which it is built, as well as the <i>Pont de Gard,</i> are of incredible Bigness, and altho' the things themselves be somewhat ruined; yet they show greater Statelynesse and Magnificence than any modern Building. There are some other remaine[...] of antiquitie about the Town which will be showen you. From <i>Nismes</i> you take Horses for <i>Mompellier,</i> which is a Days Journey from it; You dine at <i>Lunel</i> which is about mid-way, and because I have nothing to say of this Place, I shall intreat you to bring me three or four ounces of the Seeds of <i>palliurus,</i> for amongst other uses they 60 serve for, they are the best Bullets for Cauters that can be, but it is for an other use I would have them. </p>

<p>You will do well to stay some days at <i>Montpellier:</i> You may lodge at the <i>white Horse,</i> or otherways as you find your accommodation. It is a delicat sweet Town, the Streets well built, but narrow, because of the heats which are as great here as in any place of <i>France,</i> nor is it strange it should be so, being it is near upon the same latitude with <i>Rome.</i> You will do well to see the Physick Schools, there is some Curiosities to be seen in them. <i>2ly.</i> The Physick-Garden; in which you will find many excellent Plants; by making a little acquaintance with the Gardener, you may command what Seeds he has.</p>

<p> <i>3ly.</i> You will do well to make acquaintance with some of the Students or young Doctors of Physick, by whose means and in whose company you may see all the places about <i>Monpelier</i> that are fit for Herbarizing, as particularly <i>Magelon,</i> a little Island of the Mediterranean 61 Sea, lying within Sight of <i>Monpellier.</i> But by all means of the World, you must be sure to make a Journey ten or twelve Leagues from <i>Mompellier,</i> to a Place amongst the Hils, which for the great varity of Plants, that is found in and about it, is called <i>Hortus Dei.</i>  </p>

<p>You may likeways find some variety of Shells and productions of the Sea, to <i>Mompellier</i> and the Shoar, or Coast, which is near the Town.</p>

<p>I must not omit to tell you, that if you please to make a Collection of dry Plants, this is a very fit Place for it, both because of the heat which helps to dry them, both soon and well; &amp; also because of the Garden &amp; Fields, that abound with Plants, that are not common, &amp; likeways, because of the good occasion you have to send them in a Box, close packt up, (as you have seen mine) to <i>Lions,</i>  &amp;c.</p>

<p> In like manner, if you will make a Collection of Seeds, the best will be to keep them in their Seed-Vessels, and 62 write upon every parcell, that you may dispose of them afterwards according to your pleasure. </p>

<p> This I wish you to do in every Place, that afterwards when it shall please God to bring you safely to bring them home, Tho' you should not be able to raise them in this climat, yet you might have enough to know them by. Do not forget the Booksellers here, who may possibly have some of the Books you look for. I must desire one Favour of you in this Place, that You would be pleased to enquire after the <i>Psilothrum</i> or Depilatory Ointment, which they use in <i>Rome</i> in the Baths, and which I was so Unluckie as not to mind when I was upon the place. It you can find the Receipt, cause make some small quantity of it to try if it be Right, which you will easily know by this, that being rubbed upon any hairy place, within a little space, when you come to wipe it off, it takes the hair without burning or scalding the Skin; but if it either burn or discolour the Skin, it is not right. The 63 place is afterward to be washed with a little warm Water. I must likeways intreat you to be at ths pains to cause dry me a Viper or two, it will be enough to dry their Skins with the heads at them, stopped with Flax, or Cotton: but in no way must you medle with them your self, because there is Danger, but imploy one of those fellows that brings them to the Apothecaries, who for a small matter will do it. Some day or other, you may be at the paines to see <i>Frontiniague</i> famous for that generous Moschat Wine, called by the name of the place, you may Collation there, and Harbarize as you go and come. </p>

<p> When you are satisfied here, it will be fit to set forward to <i>Thoulouse.</i> You will see by the way, <i>1st. Pesenas</i> a Pretie Town, where it may fall you to Dyne, <i>Au tapis vert,</i> hard by the Town, there is a very fine House, with excellent Gardens, belonging to the <i>Prince</i> of <i>Condie,</i> it is worthy of your seeing. <i>2ly. Beziers; 3ly. Narbone,</i>  which is a very strong and well fortified Town, near upon 64 the borders of <i>Catalonia.</i> It hath communion with the Sea, by means of a little River, that runs through the Town. Be pleased to see the great Church, and in it a Peece of excellent Painting, representing the History of our Saviour's raising <i>Lazarus</i> from the Dead. Take likeways notice of the Organes, the great Pipes whereof [...]stand by the Pillar sides, at a great distance from the Organ roome, and have the Wind conveyed to them by a secret conduct; which tho' it be no difficult thing, yet it is not common. </p>

<p> From <i>Narbonne,</i> you have six or seven Leagues to <i>Carcassone;</i> They are two, <i>Ville</i> and <i>City;</i> the City stands upon a hight about half a Leagues distance from the Town: It is twice encompassed with Walls and Ditches, and is very strong, as being upon the <i>Frontiers</i>  o[...] <i>Catalonia.</i> The Town stands below in the Plaine, and is much larger, better [...]uilt, and better inhabited, &amp; Walled about with a more modern kind of Fortification. The Town is commended for 65 Cloath-works, &amp; making of Combs: The Tradesmen use to bring them to the Innes as soon as they understand any Stranger to be arrived; but your best will be to go to their Houses, and see all, &amp; try severals, for so you may best please your self, and make the best bargain too. There is of all Prices, insomuch that I have seen ten Pistoles refused for one single Comb, of Box-Wood. But indeed it was of a vast bigness and most curiously carved. You may have very good ones for three, foure, or five Livres a peece, as also some for 30, 40, &amp; 50 Solds. To be short, there is of all kindes and prices, and I shall earnestly intreat you, to bestow foure or five Crowns, upon some of the midle sort, that is next to the best, and some again of the next degree to them for me, (because of the carving) to add to my <i>Tradescants.</i> They must be packt up in a little wooden Box, which the Tradesmen know very well how to do. </p>

<p> From <i>Carcassone</i> to <i>Thoulouse,</i> you have twelve Leagues, viz. Foure to 66 <i>Vilpeinte,</i> two to <i>Castelna[...]&#0183; d' Arri,</i> two to <i>Vignonnet</i> and four to <i>Thoulouse.</i> The Second Town (in the opinion of some) in <i>France,</i> how justly, I leave to your self, when you shall see it. The Town indeed is very big, and well built, all of Brick; But not very populous, I think for the want of Trade, in regard it lyes farr from the Sea. Amongst other things, take notice of the following particulars <i>1st.</i> The Town House, in the Court whereof they Show you the place where the Scaffold was erected, that <i>Monsr: de Momorancy</i>  was beheaded upon, and some of his Blood yet Sticking upon the Wall. <i>2ly.</i> The Parliament House, into which (if it be sitting) you must neither carry Sword, nor Spurs, unless you make account to pay a Forfaulter. <i>3ly.</i> The Bridge over the River <i>Garonne,</i> which is very stately, built of Brick, somewhat after the Model of the new Bridge of <i>Paris,</i> having a Foot walk raised on every side, so that these that pass on foot, are not troubled with Coaches, Cairts, &amp;c. 67 that pass in the midle. <i>4ly.</i> In the convent (as I take it) of the <i>Cordeliers,</i>  there is a Peece of ground under a Chapel, belonging to the Church, wherein all Dead Bodies, that lye eight and fourtie hours, are so dryed, but without the consumption of any substantiall part, that they become incorruptible for ever thereafter. They will show you in a Vault, hard by the Chapell, some hundred of Bodies, standing about the Walls intire and dryed, as I have said, amongst the rest they show one bodie of a Woman, called <i>la Belle Paule,</i> Mistrels as it is said to some King, whose name I do not remember: But it is some hundreds of Years since she died, and yet me thinks there is a beautifull Proportion observable in her Face. The rest of the curiosities consist in Churches, religious-houses, &amp;c. which I leave to your self. </p>

<p> From <i>Thoulouse</i> to <i>Montauban</i> you about halfe a Dayes Journey, it is famous for the Protestant University; It stands somewhat high and declines 68 a little toward the Bridge, that stands over the <i>Tarne,</i>  which not far below the Town, casts it self into the <i>Garonne.</i> It hath many fine Fountains; but especially one, which they call the <i>Gri[...]one.</i> It hath good trafique, because of the situation betwixt <i>Thoulouse</i> and <i>Limoge</i> and <i>Paris,</i> as also because of the Commoditie of the River, to <i>Bourdeaux:</i>  the Town and Bridge are all built of Brick. It was formerly very strong, but because of its Rebellion is now Dismantled of all Fortification. </p>

<p>From <i>Moutauban</i> to <i>Bourdeaux,</i> you may go by Water in a very short Time, because the River is rapid; the Countrey about is very fertile and Pleasant. You will see by the Way, <i>Agen,</i> an ancient City, where <i>Iulius Scaliger</i> was Born: within 4 or 5 Leagues of <i>Bourdeaux</i>  stands <i>Cadiliac,</i> a most delicate <i>Castle,</i> belonging some time to the <i>Duke d' Espernon;</i> You must not faill to see them.</p>

<p> At <i>Bourdeaux,</i>  I did lodge <i>au Chapeau rouge;</i> but I have been told since, 69 that there are more commodious <i>Inns</i> in Town, which You may easily be addressed to. You will meet with severall of our Countreymen in this Place; But particularly, Sir <i>David Inglish,</i> and <i>Harie Iossy&#0183;</i> are of my acquaintance. And therefore, I must desire you to see them, &amp; permit this, to present them my service. I must likeways intreat you, to be at the pains, to enquire for a Doctor of Physick, of the Religion that lives here, whose name I have forgotten; but you will know him by this, that he hath written in French Something against Doctor <i>Willes de Febribus:</i> which I remember Sir <i>David Inglish,</i>  did once send me to <i>Paris.</i> And therefore, he may Probably know the Man: The Reason I desire You to speak with him, is, That you may learn from himself, what he hath Published, upon this or any other Subject; and whatsoever they be, I must intreat You earnestly, to buy them for me; for I have a very great Honour for the Mans Parts, tho' I know 70 not his Person; and I had the evil Luck to lend that Book, which Sir <i>David Inglish</i> sent me, to a Doctor at <i>Paris,</i> that did never render it me again. Remember to see in the Town, <i>1st. Piliers tutilarrs,</i> which are the Ruins of an Ancient <i>Roman Temple. 2ly.</i> The Ruins of an Amphitheatre, without the Town, of <i>Roman</i> Antiquity likeways. <i>3ly.</i> The <i>Cheasteau Trompette,</i>  in which there is a Garison keept by the King. It was pulled down by the Citizens, in the Time of their last Rebellion; but since re-built much better and stronger. <i>4ly.</i> The <i>Port,</i> which if you happen to see in the Time of Vintage, will be well furnished with Ships from all Places, and it may be from <i>Scotland. 5ly.</i> That peece of Ground without the Town, which they call <i>Grave;</i> which brings forth the best Wine about <i>Bourdeaux,</i>  and which for the most part is sold within the Town, at as great a Rate as ordinary <i>French</i> Wine gives with us: And therefore being there is no great quantity of it, and that it 71 would not turn the Merchants to Accompt to send it here, you may easily guesse how much <i>Graves</i> Wine We Drink in <i>Scotland,</i> altho' Our People are pleased to Flatter themselves, that all their Clarets are such; The rest I leave to others, to inform you of. I must only tell you, You will meet with as good Fruits here as in any place of <i>France, Des Treffices</i> in Latine <i>Tuberae Terrae,</i> they are found under the Ground by the Hogs, who use to smell them before they come at them, and by the noise and gests they make, give notice to their keeper, who presently puts them by, and Digs the <i>Trefice</i> for himself: They are in great esteeme, &amp; being Boyled and pared, use to be eaten by themselves with Pepper and Oyle, or else cut down with other things <i>en Ragoust.</i> There are likeways here a kind of small Birds but exceeding fatt, which they call <i>Ortolans,</i>  which are much prized for great Delicacies. </p>

<p> From <i>Bourdeaux</i> you go to <i>Rochelle.</i> In the way you pass by these Places; first 72 <i>Blay, Ville et City,</i> The City stands on a Hight and Commands the River. It was at this Place that of old the <i>English</i>  Ships were Obliged to liver their Canon, which were permitted the <i>Scots</i> (as a Priviledge) to keep a Board; as they passed to <i>Bourdeaux. 2ly. Xaintes</i> or <i>Saintes,</i> the Capital Town of <i>Xaintonge;</i> It stands upon the River <i>Charante;</i> here are some Rests of <i>Roman</i> antiquity, as of an Amphitheatre, &amp;c. But especially of an Arch, upon the Bridge over the <i>Charante,</i>  on which you will read this inscription. <i>Caesari nep: D. Iulij Pontifici A.</i> There is also an inscription, on the reverse which I remember not. You will see likeways here a Steeple, the Stairs whereof that lead to the Top are on the outside. <i>3ly. Brouage;</i> about half a Days Journey from <i>Saintes,</i> a little, but one of the most regularly fortified Towns in all <i>France,</i> in which there is a continuall Garison keept, as a Guard for the Salt, of which vast quantities is made here, by the heat of the Sun every Year in this manner. They let 73 in the Sea water by a [...], cut purposely in the ground into severall ponds, cut out likeways of purpose of a certain deepness: they fill them in the Summer time, and then stop the entries that no more water come in; when the Sun hath co[...]cted it enough, they gather it together i[...]  [...]eaps, and carry it to places appointed for it. The Town stands upon a little River which i[...] navigable, because the Sea flowes a good way above it, the Salt marshes about the Town, are little less than four Leagues about, &amp; render the Town by so much the more strong. You must be sure to arrive there at a good Hour in the day, for at Sun-setting the Gates are shut, and none whatsoever can enter. You must Salute the Governour, or in his absence, the Chief[...]Off[...]cer, and desire Libertie of him to view the Town, which he will readily grant you, and appoint a Souldier to wait upon you; from the Walls, you will discover the Marshes about the Town, and then he will bring you to the <i>Arsenal,</i> and there you will see their Magazine of Ai[...]s, and then having given 74 something to the Souldier to drink, you may thank the Governour &amp; take leave of him. This is all that is to be seen in this place except you make account to see the Isle of <i>Ol[...]rone,</i>  which lyes without the mouth of the little River, about a League or two in the Sea. </p>

<p>From <i>Brouage</i> you have seven Leagues to the <i>Rochell,</i> upon the Way to which you will have occasion to see a great many Sea-Plants, such as <i>Kali, Kali Spinosum, Salicornia, Cakeile S[...]rapionis, Papaver corniculatum luteum, Eringium Marinum, Crithmum;</i> with many others.</p>

<p>The <i>Rochel</i> is much more famous for what it was, than for what it is, It was the strongest hold, the Protestants had in <i>France,</i> but after the taking of the Town by <i>Lewes</i> the <i>13th.</i> the Walls thereof were quite demolished, so that scarcely the vestiges thereof remaine: the Harbour is considerable, for it enters within the midle of the Town. At [...]resent it hath a considerable trafique [...] Salt, white Wines, &amp;c.</p>

<p> 75 You must be at the pains to see the Isle of <i>Re,</i> about a League from the Town, but not above a quarter of a League from the Land. As you go from the <i>Rochel,</i> to the place where you are to take Boat to cross over, they will show you the Ruins of that Digue, which <i>Cardinal Richlieu</i> caused make by sinking of Barks, loaden with Stones, to hinder all relief for the Town by Sea, and it was observeable, that the very day after the Town surrendered, the Digue was broke down by Storm, which if it had done but three days sooner, it may be justly questioned whether the Town had ever been taken, especially seeing the <i>English</i> Fleet was ryding before the Isle of <i>Re.</i>  </p>

<p> In the Isle of <i>Re,</i> there is a <i>Citadale,</i> near to which you will be put a Shore upon the Island, but it is not usual to permit Strangers to enter into it. At the east end of the Island, there is a little Town called St, <i>Martines,</i> in which there are many <i>Dutch</i>  Families, because of the great trafique the Dutch hath with 76 this place, for Salt and white-Wines. The Island is generally of a Sandie Soil, and only made fertile by the Sea-<i>Ware</i> which they throw upon it, and which in my Opinion is the cause, that all the Wines both of the Island and about the <i>Rochel</i> tast brackish, especially when they begin to be old. You will find amongst other Plants upon the Island aboundance of <i>Pancratium,</i> except you come in the latter Season of the Year, when probably it may not be found. You may returne at Night to the <i>Rochelle,</i> from whence you have a Messenger to <i>Paris,</i> upon the way to which there is nothing that I need to trouble you with, except <i>Poictiers,</i>  that I have not seen my self, and therefore can say nothing of; From <i>Poicteirs</i> your way is to <i>Amboise</i> midway betwixt <i>Tours</i> and <i>Blois</i> of which before. </p>

<p>
 I must advertise you here, that if you please you may make this <i>Tour</i> an other way <i>viz.</i> To <i>Nantes,</i> as in the former advice concerning the <i>Petit Tour,</i> as far as <i>Nantes,</i>  from thence to the <i>Rochell, 77 Bourdeaux, Toulouse, Narbonne, Montpellier, Avignion,</i> and so all the rest throw <i>Provence;</i> and then back to <i>Avignion,</i> from whence to <i>Lions,</i> and so to <i>Paris</i> with the messenger, or coach, which you like best. For your better understanding in the Country, it will be fit to carry a Map, or <i>Carte</i>  of <i>France</i> along with you, to look upon the situation of every place as you pass, for doing of which a litle time will suffice once a day. Let it be illuminat for the more easie discerning the different counties and their bounding. You will do well likewise to carrie a Book with you in 80. called <i>Le Voyage de France,</i> which will inform you of many particulars, that either were not at all seen and observed by me, or else have escaped my Memory; and indeed it is no great wonder if they have, having been so lazie as not to make any <i>Memoire</i> of them whilst they were yet recent in my mind. And this is one Reason of the tumultuarinesse and disorder of this Letter, but I am well pleased to think, that by the amendements 78 you will make both in seeing, observing, and writing down all things more particularly, we shall have occasion afterward to put the Voyage in a better Dress; I must likeways beg your Pardon for not having writen to you sooner, having been several times called out of Town since I began to write this Letter: If you find it tedious in reading, blame your self for being the cause thereof, and be the more patient, in regard I shall not have occasion to be any more so tedious, unless you go for <i>Italy,</i> and give me a timeous advice of your Intentions. </p>

<p>
 I shall conclude all with my best wishes for your health &amp; happy Return, &amp; most earnestly intreat you not to grudge us with the effects of a Spare hour, that seeing at this distance, we cannot be so happy, as to enjoy you personally; we may at least by this next best way entertain a Correspondence, which I assure you will be a great Kindness to your Friends here, but to none so much as 79 to my self who cannot be indifferent in any thing, that concernes you, And therefore cannot but be sollicitous, to hear often from you, as the only thing, that can supply the want of your person, So much desired and longed for, by &amp;c. </p>
 </br> </br> 
 81 </br> <H4>LETTER III.</H4> </br> <H4>CONTAINING Advice for Travelling into ITALY.</H4>
 </br> <H4>Written to a Friend</H4>

<p> IT is much better to go into <i>Italy</i> in the latter end of <i>Autumn,</i> than in the <i>Spring;</i> Because the Change of the Air is not so much from one Extreme to another in that Season, as in the other; for the Mildness of the Winter in <i>Italy</i>  (especialy upon the <i>South</i> side of the <i>Appennine</i>) doth not so much recede from the Temperatness of <i>Autumn</i> in <i>France,</i> as the Heat of <i>Summer</i> in <i>Italy</i>  exceeds the Mildness of the <i>Spring</i> in 82 <i>France.</i> It is certain, that if a Man intend to stay but a half a Year, it is better to begin the Journey in <i>Autumn,</i> and finish it in the <i>Spring,</i> than to begin in the <i>Spring,</i> and finish it in <i>Autumn,</i> and so be obnoxious to the excessive Heats of Summer. If one intend to stay one or more Years, it is undoubtedly best to begin the Journey in <i>Autumn,</i> because the Winter, being much more clement than usually it falls out with us, will be easily supported, &amp; all the Heat that happens in the following Summer, in regard it comes by degrees, will not so readily affect the Body, that hath been already inured to the Air of the climate, for some Time before. </p>

<p> The most convenient way of making the Toure of <i>Italy,</i> (in my opinion) is to go through <i>Provence</i> to <i>Cane,</i> a small inconsiderable Town upon the <i>Frontiers</i> of <i>Provence,</i> and there to hire a Felluck to <i>Genoua,</i>  and, if you cannot get one at <i>Cane,</i> to go to <i>Nize,</i> which is but six or seven Leagues further, 83 where you will be sure to find one; a Felluck is ordinarily of four Oares, and hath this advantage that you go in it <i>Ter' a Terre,</i> that is so near the land, that in the case of any danger by Storm or otherwise, you may easily run on Shoar and escape it, and besides, land as often as there is any Town or other thing worthy the seeing, and likewayes ly a Shoar every Night, at some good Town or other. A Felluck will serve to carrie half a dozen of persons with ease, besides the Rowers: The Price is not fixt but more or less as the Fellucks happen to be more or fewer in number. Ours cost us about 11 or 12 Crowns, in regard there were but few at <i>Cane,</i> but you may chance to get one for 8, or 9. especially if ye be few in number and not much Baggage; You may provide every morning to take along with you, Wine and what Victuals you please, the rather because sometimes it will happen that you will have no conveniency of any Town about Mid-day, and therefore must Dine aboard Your Fellucke. </p>
<p>
 84 The first thing You will meet with, worthy the taking notice of, is <i>Nize,</i> a City belonging to the Duke of <i>Savoy,</i> it lyes near to the Sea syde, at the very foot of the <i>Alps,</i> and hath a very strong Cittadale belonging thereto: some two miles from thence stands <i>Villa Franca,</i> one of the best Ports in <i>Italy,</i> it belongs likewise to the Duke of <i>Savoy,</i> and is guarded with two Castles, one whereof stands on the top of a Rock, upon which growes in great aboundance the <i>Ficus Indica.</i> Some three miles farther upon the Coast stands the Town and Palace of <i>Monaco,</i> or <i>Morgues,</i>  It is a Principalitie by it self, and hath very litle land belonging to it: The place is strong standing upon a Rock, which is not accessible, save at the side where the Palace stands, and where it joynes with the land, all the rest being compassed with the Sea. In the Palace they use to show 1. The Princes Wairdrob, in which there is good store of Silver plate, and other Rich furniture, 2. Severall rooms as Halls, Galleries, Chambers <i>&amp;c.</i> well 85 furnished with Hangings, Cabinets, Pictures, <i>&amp;c.</i> 3. A little Garden upon the top of the Rock, behind the Palace, made up of earth brought thither on purpose. At the foot of the Hill near the Town there are store of <i>Carobe</i> Trees, or <i>Siliqua Dulcis, Bauhini</i> in <i>Pinace.</i>  </p>

<p> I must not omit to tell You that you must be sure at your first leaving of <i>France</i> in the last Town that You happen to be in, whither it be <i>Cane</i> or any other, to get a Certificate of your health and freedome from the Plague, as also of the freedom of that Town. There are persons appointed in every place for giving of such Bills, or <i>Patents de Sainte,</i> as they call them. Their Subscriptions are known to the next Townes about, where you are to go, so that it is not easie to counterfit, and besides it were very dangerous to doe so; They are very scrupulous in this matter upon all the Coast of <i>Liguria,</i> for fear of contagion; So that when you arrive at any Town, before you go a shore, you must send one of your Boat-men, with your Certification to be 86 shown to such as are appointed for those matters in that Place, who immediately upon the Sight of the Bill permit you, <i>la Practica,</i>  that is Libertie to stay in the Town as long as you please, and do what you will. When you part from that, You must take a new Certificat to the next Place, and so of the Rest untill you come at <i>Ligorn,</i> where this niceness will end. </p>

<p> You must carrie with you no Secret Weapon, as Dagger, Pocket Pistols, or the like: And this is general all over <i>Italy,</i> except only in the Kingdom of <i>Naples,</i> and States of <i>Venice</i> and <i>Milan,</i> where it is permitted to wear Daggers. At most Towns in <i>Italy,</i> You will be oblidged to leave yonr Hulster-Pistols, and sometimes your Sword with the Guard at the Gate you enter in by: And then they will ask you, by what Gate you are to go out, and accordingly Your Arms will wait for you, which they will know to be yours, by the delivery of a Nick-stick given You as you enter, and which for that purpose, 87 You must carefully keep. In most Places, Strangers are permitted to weare their Swords. Your Cloak-Bag likeways will be visited at every Town, to to see that there be no Customable Goods in it, and if there be any Books, you must give up a List of them to the Visitor, or Inquisitor appointed for that end, and he will Signe it with Order to let them pass, Providing, there be no Prohibited Book amongst them, For if there were any such, it would be Dangerons; yet there are wayes enough to convey Books, or any other thing of whatsoever Nature, or Quality, from any Sea-port, without any Danger, which you will easily understand, after your being a while in the Country. </p>
<p>From <i>Monaco</i> you will easily reach <i>Oneglia,</i> which is at about twelve Miles distance, and about 5 Miles further <i>Albenga,</i> from thence you have seven Miles to <i>N[...]li,</i> &amp; ten more to <i>Savona,</i> from whence there rests five Miles to <i>Genoua,</i></p>

<p> All the Coast, of <i>Liguria,</i> from <i>Nize</i> to 88 <i>Genoua,</i> &amp; some days Journey beyond <i>Genoua</i>  towards <i>Ligorn,</i> is nothing but rude <i>Alps,</i> for the most part infertile and unhabitable, except towards the Bottom near the Sea, where there are little Smal Valleys here and there, both delicious and Fruitfull. For the rest it is wonderfull to see with what industry &amp; trouble, they have been able to place little smal Villages, as it were in the Clefts of the Hills, and Plant Olive Trees, where one would think nothing but crows could venture to Big. All this Tract is extreamly hot, especially in Summer, being directly opposit to the South, and altogether guarded from the North, So that the reflection of the Sun beames, makes a Heat almost insupportable. </p>

<p> <i>Genoua la Superba,</i> so called from the sumptuousness of its Buildings, and so they use to give other epithets to other Towns, as <i>Roma la Saneta, Fiorenza la Bella, Bolognia la Grassa, Padua la Dotta, Venetia la Rieta,</i> &amp;c. It is said that <i>Genoua</i>  has <i>Montagnie senza legno, Mare senze pesce, Donne senza Vergonia, 89 &amp; Gente senza sede.</i> It is a Republick &amp; the Government administred by a Senate. It is a City of great Trade and very Rich, and it is said they account usury no great Sin: It being their Maxim, that <i>Cento per Cento e Niente, Cento Cinquanto per Cinto e quelcha cosa, du Cento per Cento e quadagnio Hone[...]io.</i> You may take notice in the Place; First, of the Situation of the Town, and so you may Herbarize towards the West-side. <i>2ly.</i> The Senate House, <i>3ly.</i>  The Churches, and particularly that of St. <i>Lorenzo,</i> which is the Cathedrall, a Stately Fabrick Crusted with Marble. <i>4ly.</i> That famous Street, called <i>la Strada Nova,</i> which is composed of so many Palaces, most of them of Marble: you must by all means endeavour to see the most considerable Palaces. Within you will find them most delicatly Adorned with all sorts of fine Things, as Statues, Paintings, &amp;c. You must also see their Gardens, where besides severall sorts of Flowers, Shrubs, and Trees, you will likeways 90 find delicat Fountains, Fish-ponds, and Grotto's; as particularly in the Palace of the <i>Principe d'Oria;</i> I would likeways have you see the Palace of <i>Signior Baldi,</i> and some other Houses of Pleasure especially towards the Sea-port, where they stand at the foot of the Hill over looking one another as they mount in degrees in form of a Theatre, and all of them having a full view of the Sea-port, which is very spacious and very deep; but in my Opinion, not so very well guarded from stormes. That which I find most considerable in it is, the <i>Mole,</i> which secures the entrie thereof, it being the best and strongest and in the deepest Water I ever saw. At the east end of the port there is a litle Promontory called <i>Capo de Fara,</i> upon which stands a High Turret, which they call <i>la Lantern&acirc;,</i>  from the Top whereof they use to discover all Vessells at Sea at a considerable distance. <i>5ly.</i> Forget not to visit the Book-Sellers, but in Regard this is a generall Remark not to be omited, in every Town where there any, I shall 91 say no more of it here, but shall put You in mind of it now and then. </p>

<p>From <i>Genoua</i> You must again provide Your self of a Felluck to <i>Ligorn,</i> which you will find readier and at an easier rate, because of the more frequent Traffick and intercourse, than from <i>Cane</i> or <i>Nize,</i> you will pass by <i>Porta Fino, Leresi, Viaregia,</i> &amp;c. and you wil not find many things considerable more than I have already noted on the Coasts of <i>Liguria</i> betwixt <i>Genoua</i>  and <i>Nize,</i> except that when ye pass <i>Leresi</i> a litle, you begin to discover a large plain, part of which belongs to the state of <i>Genoua,</i> and therein are the Quarries that furnish all <i>Italy</i> with the best Marble, and the rest is the Principality of <i>Massa;</i> For the better seeing of which if you please you may go from <i>Genoua</i>  by Horse to <i>Ligorne.</i></p>

<p><i>Tuscany</i> begins about <i>Viaregia,</i> the greatest part whereof is under the Dominion of the Great Duke of <i>Tuscany.</i></p>

<p> <i>Ligorn</i> is no antient, but yet a very Handsom and well built City, by <i>Ferdinand</i>  the first, Great DUKE of <i>Tuscany,</i> of whom you will see a most 92 stately Statue or rather Colosse, with slaves Chain'd at his Feet, on each side kneeling; a litle without the Gate as you go to the Sea-Port. The Town is regularly fortified, they say, by the contrivance of the Duke of <i>Northumberland,</i> who was banished out of <i>England</i> in the Reign of Queen <i>Eli[...]abeth,</i> and well receaved and much esteemed by the then Duke of <i>Tuscany,</i> for his excellent parts and Qualifications. The Duke for incouragment of Trade hath granted great Immunities to Merchants of all Nations whatsomever, which is the great cause that the Town flourishes so much in Trade, and is so well Peopled: Severall Nations have established great Factories here, but especialy the <i>English</i> and <i>Hollanders</i>  who have made this place, as it were the staple of all their commerce into the <i>Levant.</i> The <i>Jews</i> also have a very great freedome here and are not distinguished by any particular Mark, as in other places, from other Merchants, but live Honourably in a particular Street of the Town, built by themselves, 93 yet not sequestrated from the rest of the Town by any Wall or Gate, as they use to be in all other places, where I have seen them. The <i>English</i> Merchants live very splendidly, and are very hospitable and courteous, especially, to their Countrymen, that Travell that way, under which name they comprehend all that are Subject to our King: The Jews <i>Synagogue</i> here is the best in <i>Italy;</i> and therefore worthy your seeing. They observe our <i>Saturnday,</i>  so that if You please to stay, You may see their form of Worship. You must take particular notice of the <i>Sea-Port,</i> which is undoubtedly the most secure and finest in all <i>Italy,</i> in which You will see the great Dukes <i>Gallies,</i> which he kee[...]s for a Guard, to his Countrey against the <i>Turks</i> men of War. It is worth the while to see a <i>Gallie</i>  put out to Sea, or, as she comes in, for so one may see the Discipline of the Slaves to whom the <i>Bosson</i> delivers the word of Command by the noise of a Whisle, the diversitie whereof they are as well 94 acquainted with, as Horse-men with a Trumper, or foot with a Drum. If You be diligent You may meet with severall curiosities, some naturall, some of Art, especially from the <i>Levant,</i> and all at reasonable Rates: and for the more commodious doing of this, it will be fitting to make acquaintance with severall Merchants, especially <i>English,</i> who will either inform You themselves, where such things are to be found, or else address You to such Persons in the Town, as may best hap to do it. It is likeways necessary for You to have such acquaintance, and amongst them some one confident for returning You Money from <i>England,</i> or at least for returning You, what Money You have not present Use for, to <i>Florence,</i> as also for keping correspondence with; that by this means, You may send any thing you please to Your confident at <i>London.</i> And because this advice may be usefull in many other Places; I shall be more particular in it here for all. I suppose then You were to send any little Ball for Trunk from <i>Ligorne</i> to <i>London;</i> Your 95 way would be first to pass it at the Custom house, where, I think Books, and curiosities pay nothing but yet You must have an Order for Shipping of them, then You must agree with some <i>English</i> Master of a Ship, bound for <i>London,</i> for the portage, and accordingly draw a Bill of Loading---which is of a common Stile bearing, <i>that such a Ball or Coffer marked,---(and sometimes it says, marked as on the Margen, and then the Mark whether it be Letters or Figures or both, which is put upon the Goods, is likeways placed upon the Margen of the</i> Bill) <i>is imbarked This</i>---Day <i>of---and</i> Year <i>of God---aboard the good Ship called---now in the Port of</i> Ligorn, <i>and bound for</i> London, <i>whereof</i> Mr:---<i>under God is</i>  Master, <i>the which Ball is consignable at</i> London <i>to</i> Mr---<i>Merchant</i> &amp;c. <i>or bis Order, for which he is to Pay---</i> English <i>Mony, he receiving the said Ball well conditioned, without Skaith or Damage,</i> There must be three Copies of this <i>Bill,</i> one You must subscribe, and give to the Master of the Ship, for [...]  96 Warrand to carrie his Fraught. The other two he must subscribe and give to You, whereof You must send one by Post with a particular Letter of advice, to Your correspondent at <i>London,</i> to warrand him to call for the Goods, at the Master of the Ship; and the other You must keep by You for Your own security, in case there should be any miscarriage, either through the Skipper, or Merchants fault, and then Your Goods may be imbarked. If You were to send from <i>Florence,</i> then you must in the like manner pass your Goods at the Customhouse; if there be any Books among them, You must have a particular Licence as I Noted formerly, and then cause unball them at the Custom-house, and set your Mark upon them, and find out some Boat going for <i>Ligorn,</i> (which you will be sure to do,) and take a Note under the Boat-Masters hand of the recept of such Goods so marked, consignable to such a Ma[...]n Merchant in <i>Ligorn,</i> for which he is to pay so much Fraught, he receiving the Goods 90 well conditioned. This Note you must send by the Post to your Merchant in <i>Ligorn,</i> together with Your acquittance at the Custom house of <i>Florence,</i> which will serve to acquit them at <i>Ligorn;</i> together also with particular advice to dispatch them by the first good occasion for <i>London,</i> and to take Bills of Loading for them, whereof you must desire one Copie to be sent to your self, which you must keep for your Security, as said is; From <i>Rome</i> you must use the same conveyance to <i>Ligorn:</i> But from <i>Venice</i> you must address immediately for <i>London,</i> and in the same manner as from <i>Ligorn.</i> If you be to send any thing over Land, where you go not along your self, you must make two Letters of Voiture (having first agreed for the carriage at the Rate of so much <i>per Cent.</i>) whereof you must give one to the carrier, which is a kind of advice to the Person you address your Goods to, which is in this form: suppose from <i>Turine</i> to <i>Lions,</i>  you write thus, </p>
 </br> </br> Sir

<p> I have sent a Bundel marked---by--- 91 Indweller in this Town, and Carrier to <i>Lions,</i> addressed to You, which I desire you would be pleased to receive, and being in good condition, Pay for it at the Rate of---<i>per Cent.</i> and I shall hold you account thereof, or otherways place it to the account of---at <i>Paris,</i> to whom I desire you to address the Bundell and send it with the first good Occasion, and I shall be Accountable to him. The carrier will part from hence, such a Day being the---<i>Day</i> of---and will arrive at <i>Lions</i>  the---<i>Day</i> thereafter, the Bundell contains no Merchant Goods, being only Books, <i>&amp;c.</i> for my own Privat use and therefore not Customable I rest. </p> </br> SIR, <i>Yours</i> &amp;c. </br> 
 </br> </br>

<p>THe other Letter of Voiture is an Obligation under the carriers hand to You, which you must send by the Post to your correspondent at <i>Lions.</i> The Form of it ought to be as follows.</p>
 </br>

<p> 92 <i>I</i> Vnder Subscribed Carrier of <i>Turin,</i>  acknowledge to have received from---the---<i>Day</i> of---at <i>Turin</i> a Bundell Marked---Weighing---addressed to---Merchant of <i>Lions</i> to whom I promise to deliver it in good condition at <i>Lions,</i> (with the help of God) or to his Order, he paying me at the Rate of---<i>per Cent.</i> therefore. In witness whereof I have subscribed their presents with my hand at <i>Turin</i> the---<i>Day</i>  of---Anno--- </p>
 </br> </br>

<p> I Have been the more particular in these things, because altho' they may seem to be triffles, to those that are conversant in such matters, yet a small mistake, may be the occasion of a great Miscarriage. I shall now return to put You in mind of some other particulars, and 1. That in this Place, Oisters are a very great Delicat, there being but one person that has Priviledge to sell them, for which he payes a considerable Sum 93 to the great Duke; I know not well from whence they are brought, but I am sure it is from a considerable Distance: They are keept in the Town-Ditch, on the East side of the Town, which is full of salt water, because it hath communion with the Sea; the keeper hath a little House hard by, and according to the number Bargained for, takes them alive &amp; very fat out of the Ditch, &amp; sells them at the Rate of a Pistole the Hundred. They are many times put into the Ditch little, and keept untill they be big enough, they taste very well, and are by far the best in <i>Italy.</i> 2. To the East-ward of the Town, about a Mile or little more, there is an Hill called <i>Monte Nero,</i> upon which there is good harbarizing. You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide with you to the Place. From <i>Ligorn</i> you have 15 Miles of Smooth and Plain way to </p>

<p> <i>Pisa.</i> It is an Ancient City, sometimes a common-wealth by it self, and then both Rich and populous: But since it was Reduced under the command of 94 the great Duke of <i>Tuscany,</i> it is neither of the two; the far greater part of the Inhabitants, after the Town was Reduced, chusing rather to abandon their Native Country, than their Liberty, or at least preferring a voluntar Subjection abroad, to a necessitated Slavery at home. The City is large and Beautifull, divided, as it were in two by the River <i>Arno,</i> and again conjoyned by a beautifull Bridge, of white Marble. The Air of this Place, in Winter, is judged to be more Temperate than that at <i>Florence,</i> &amp; therefore the great Duke uses to pass the Winter here. There are many things considerable in this Town; as, <i>1st.</i> The great Church, which is a Stately Fabrick, and well adorned within, as also the <i>Batistaria</i> whereof the Doores, as also of the great Church, are all covered with Massive Brass, cast into delicat Figures. <i>2ly.</i> The crooked Steeple, which leanes to one side very far from the perpendicular; some people alledge it was purposely so built, but I am more apt to beleeve that the ground hath miss-given on the one side 95 by little and little, or rather insensibly, which may be some part of the Reason, why it hath hung together so long without falling, to which the excellencie of the Cement and Workman-ship hath contributed very much; my opinion, to one that narrowly observes, will not appear to be unreasonable, for the outside is of so many Rows of small Pillars going round about, and the lower-most Row, on that side that it leanes to, is more than half hid in the ground, where as those of the other are wholy to be seen; which I suppose could not have happened otherways, than as I have said. <i>3ly.</i> The Buriall Place, which is the most stately I ever saw, being a long quadrangle, well walled and galleried about, in the midle whereof are very many Monuments of great antiquity, of many of the ancient noble Families of <i>Pisa.</i> They are most of them of white Marble in shape like a Coffine, wherein the Body of the Dead persons was laid: Some of them are carved in one Fashion and some of them in another, and 96 some of them into excellent Figures. <i>4ly</i> The Dukes Palace. <i>5ly.</i> The Physical Garden, together with the Rarities that are keept in a Gallery belonging to the Garden, where you will see a very great Collection of Natural Curiosities. The Garden uses to have very rare exotick Plants; but in regard you can have no access to it, except by the recommendation of the Physitian, that is Professor of <i>Botany</i>  for the time, therefore I think it will be worth your while to make your address to him, for a Libertie, first, to see the Garden and Gallery; secondly, to get from the Gardener or himself, the Seeds, of such as you have a mind to, and a Peece of the Plant for drying, if you think fitting; you must not be negligent here, for this is one of the best Gardens in <i>Italy,</i> &amp; in my opinion preferable to that of <i>Padua,</i> especially for exotick Plants. The University, for the whole Estate of <i>Tuscany,</i> is keep'd here, and if you please you may see the Schooles for all Professions, and particularly that for the Lawes, where 97 the most renowned <i>Bartholus</i> did teach. Amongst the Booksellers you may find something to accommodat you, because it is an University Town, and I shall tell you here, because I do not remember to have it done as yet, that, generally speaking, all sort of Books in <i>Italy,</i> are cheaper than in any other place where I have been. I pray You remember to get a Couple of the Catalogues of the Garden there, of the last Edition. </p>

<p> From <i>Pisa,</i> You have but a small half days Journey, of very pleasant Way, to <i>Luca,</i> which is a Delicat little Town, a Republick by it self, and having but a very small Territory belonging to it; it is well and regularly fortified with a dry Ditch, which is keept very cleane and in good Order, and allways Green: the Republick is governed by a Prince or Chief Magistrat, whom they choose of their own Town, and change him every two Month: So soon as any one is chosen, he must leave his own House and Friends, and retire himself to the 98 Publick Palace, where he is assisted by some other of the Nobles, &amp; cannot come out untill his Government be finished. </p>

<p>The Humour of the people is Chearfull and very Civil, and contrary to the Custome of all <i>Italy,</i> Men and Women converse freely amongst themselves or with Strangers. They use Balls &amp; Danceing, much after the <i>French</i> Fashion; The Religious people use to distill Spirits and Essences, whereof you may provide what Quantitie you please, both good, and good cheap, I wish you might help a Friend to some of Orange-Flowers and Myrtles; The religious Women likeways use to make very prettie Things, and particularly I remember they use to sell Stomagers of quilted Silk, which most people use to wear in the Winter-time, of one Fashion or another.</p>

<p> From <i>Luca,</i> if you please, you may go to <i>Pisloia,</i> and so to <i>Florence,</i> or otherways returne to <i>Pisa,</i> and from thence, either by Coach or Horse, to <i>Florene.</i> If the Weather be not too hot, it 99 is better to go on Horse-back, in regard of the prospect of the Countrie, which cannot be had in a Coach. <i>Florence</i> is a new Town, but one of the most beautifull in all <i>Italy,</i> and therefore called <i>Fioren[...]  a la Bella;</i> it is situated upon the River <i>Arno,</i> which divides it in two sev[...]rall places, over which stands four fair Bridges. The City is Counted at least six miles in Compass; The Beautie of it consistes in the Stateliness of the Buildings, the great number of Palaces, the neateness and cleannesse of the Streets, occasioned by the largeness and smoothnes of the Stones, with which it is paved; the many large Places, Fountains, Statues, Churches, Towers, Convents &amp; Gardens; Of all which it hath very many of the best in <i>Italy.</i> There is scarce any thing in this City; which is not very well worthie to be taken notice of&#0183; but particularly. 1. The Dukes two Palaces, the Old and the New; In the new the great Duke himself keeps his Court. It is a [...]ost magnificent Structure, o[...]  the <i>T[...]scan</i> Order of Architecture, but not finished 100 as yet; The Garden belonging thereto is very well furnished, with Rare Plants and Flowers; of which the Catalogue is Printed, of which I desire You to bring alongs a Couple of Copies. It will not be a miss to make Acquaintance with the Gardener; for, so you will get what Seeds you please. The old Palace stands in the great Place of the City, in the midle of which Place there is a Stately Colossus of Brass, of <i>Cosmus</i> great Duke of <i>Florence</i> a Horse back, by the Model whereof that of <i>Henry</i> the great upon the new Bridge of <i>Paris</i>  was made. Near to the Entrie into the Palace there are severall other Noble Statues of Marble: within the Palace it self is that so much famed, over the World, Gallerie, which is composed of many Roomes, containing great Varietie of the choisest Curiosities; as Sta[...]ues, Busta's, Baserelieues, Paintings, Drawings, Prints, Cabinets, Jewels, Cameo's, Intaillia's, with all sorts of <i>Anticailles,</i> with an infinite number of Master-peeces of latter times. Amongst other things, there 101 is a Chamber or two full of all sorts of Armes, amongst which those of <i>Charles</i> the Great and <i>Roland,</i> with severall Swords of <i>Henry</i> the great, also a great Number of Cymiters, some whereof have their Scabbards set with Rubies, Emeralds, and other precious Stones. There is an ancient Buckler with a Medusa's Head, Painted by <i>Michael Angelo bona rota.</i> I remember to have observed some ancient Casaques, whose weight I am confident no Head could sustain, unless so adjusted to the rest of the Armour, and that to the Sadle, that the Horse must have carried all. You must endeavour to get a Writen Inventure of the severall Curiosities in the Gallerie, for without that it is not possible to remember every particular; Within this Palace, the great Duke uses to keep the most excellent Artisans he can meet with, of all Trades, to whom he gives considerable Salaries and Priviledges, whom you will do well to see, but especially the Stone-Cutters, of whose Art I intreat you to take particular notice, and what 102 Instruments they use, and learne at least as much of it as may serve to polish Stones. Amongst other Curiosities of this Trade, You may see a New way of Mosaick Work, wherein the figure is compleated most delicatly, both as to the parts and Colours thereof, by the Natural Colours of the severall peeces of Stones assembled together; and which is strange, all the lights and shadows requisite in Painting is herein observed; So that they can imitate Nature allmost as fully this way as in Painting it self. This way differs from the old Mosaick, in that the particular Peeces that compose it, are of different Figures according as the colours require; for example, a Cherrie because it is all of one Colour, therefore it may be represented by a Red stone of a round Figure in one Peece, but the Stalk of it must be of an other different figure: But in the old way, all the peeces were Quadrangular, whatsoever might be the colour or thing to be represented, and of this kind of Mosaick you will see a most excellent 103 Peece in St. <i>Peters</i>  Church at <i>Rome,</i> representing St. <i>Michael</i> the Arch-Angel treading upon the <i>Devil.</i> In this Palace likeways, the great Duke keeps a Chymical Laboratorie, called <i>la Funderia,</i> wherein are made very many notable preparations with great Faithfullness, especially Spirits and Essences, which may be bought here at reasonable Rates, and without fear of being cheated, as to the goodnes of the things, <i>2ly.</i> Severall Churches and Convents, particularly the <i>Dome</i> the out-side whereof is the most beautifull in <i>Europe,</i> being all crusted with Black. White and Red Marble, fit[...]y placed together in regular figures. The Church within is Paved with black and white Marble, and Richly adorned with Chapels and Altars; The Cupola is very Large and Fine insomuch that the Golden Ball upon the Top of it, which is able to contain a great many Persons, does not appear from the Ground to be bigger than a good Foot-Bal; Near to the <i>Dome</i>  stands <i>Jota</i>'s Towre, one of the most 104 admirable Peeces of Architecture, in the World; being a square Steeple, without any spite on the Top of it, all crusted with black, white and red Marble, in most regular figures from the top to the bottom; near to it stands the round Chapel of St. <i>John</i> delicately payed with Marble, and adorned with statues, with a Rich Vase adorned with precious Stones, wherein the Children are Baptised. The Doors of the Chapel are of Brass, all in Figures of personage in Base-relieve of most admirable Workmanship; in this Chapel is the Sepulchre of <i>Jota,</i> that renown'd Painter and Architect, upon whom there are some excellent Latin verses there ingraven, which I have lost, but [...]o[...]mend to you to take a Copie thereof. In the Church of St. <i>Spirito;</i> there is an Altar ha[...]cost above a Hundred Thousand Crowns, which were left by a <i>Florentin</i> Gentleman for that effect. In the Church <i>de Sancta Cr[...]ce,</i>  (I h[...]ve [...]orgot whether i[...] belongs to the [...] or Ja[...]obi[...];) <i>Michael Ang[...]o bona rota</i> i[...]  interred, 105 and it is said at his own desire, that he might lye within the View of <i>Jota</i>'s Towre, which he did so much admire in his lifetime; Upon his Tome there are three most delicate Statues, the one represents Painting; the second, Sculpture; the third Architecture: in which three Arts, he was so great a Master. St. <i>Laurence</i> Church was magnificently built by <i>Cosmo de Medicis,</i> whose Scpulchre is to be seen there. There is that famous Chapel, which the Dukes continually Labour to Finish. It is the most Glorious thing extant in the World, there being already bestowed upon the Workman-ship thereof above eight Millions of Gold, and I beleeve a considerable deal more will not perfect it. It is not very large, but built round; it is all Mosaik, both the Floore, roofe and sides; and the least considerable Stones that compose it, are Jasper, Porphir, Alabaster, Lapis Lazuli &amp;c. there are severall nests in the Wall about, where the statues of the Dukes are to stand as they lived and succeeded to the another. The 106 Great Altar is not yet set up, because of peoples being still at work in the Chapel, nor is it yet altogether finished, but yet there is so much done, that to look upon it, one should hardly think there were any thing wanting. It is keept in the Dukes Wardrobe in the Old Palace, of which I forgot to speake formerly, and therefore tell You now that it is one part of the old Palace which You must not faile to see, there being in it a vast Treasure of Silver and Gold Plate, with many other Precious things. The Altar is keept in a little Room by it self, I shall not under-take to descrive it particularly, but only desire You to consider well every part of it, the Richness of the Materials and excellencie of the Workemanship, the <i>Mosaicks,</i> and the <i>Christall</i>  Pillars, and I believe You will easily excuse my holding by the general, and omitting to speak of particulars: I do truely think that the beauties and excellencies of this Chapel and Altar, are so great and so many, that they Deserve a Particular Book to make them known to the world, 107 and it may be there is some such work intended, or alreadie extant, which if it be I am confident You will take care to have it. </p>

<p> I must give You notice in this Place, that You will doe well to Treat with some of those men that Work about the Chapel, or else with some of those stone-cutters in the Gallery for some small Peeces of all the species of stones; let them be of such a Bigness as may easily serve to know them by. I make no doubt but You may get them at a Reasonable Rate. But I must earnestly intreat You to mind those two Species of stones which are found in Quarries not farr from <i>Florence,</i> whereof the one Naturally represents Townes and Landscapes, the other is some what Whiter, and has Trees and Forrests Represented on it, by little Black Draughts; I remember to have shown you a small Peice of each sort, but now I would have, two or three larger Peeces of both the sorts, of about a span-Length, and of the best Marked, for I intend to put them in frames, as a Cheif ornament of my 108 Tradescants. I shall hold You compt for the price. 3. The Place where the wild Beasts are keept. It is a long square Peece of ground Walled about, and galleried on the Top for Spectators; under the galleries are litle cells that open to the Place, in each of which there is keept a severall Wild Beast, such as <i>Lyons, Tygers, Leopards, Woolfs, Beares,</i> &amp;c. These have their keeper that waits upon them, and Feeds them, and when the great Duke commands, they are brought out, one or more, as he Pleases, and bated with Dogs, or otherwise set to fight with one another, Upon such occasions strangers are Permitted to see. 4. The Book-sellers; of which there are prettie store here and those well furnished too. You cannot miss of a <i>Casalpinus de Plantis</i> or two, for it was Printed in this Place. If You can get his appendix <i>ad libros de Plantis,</i> You will oblidge me to bring it with You; it was Printed by it self at <i>Rome.</i> You may possibly meet with other good Books, for it is ordinar when Learned men die&#0183; for Book-Sellers to buy 109 their Books. I must likeways put You in mind to buy a Printed Paper for me, that was Published at <i>Florence,</i> called <i>Testis examinatus;</i> it containes two or three figures of the <i>Testicles</i>  with a short Description thereof, in one single leaf. </p>

<p>There is one Dr. <i>Kirton</i> Dr. of <i>Physick,</i> He is a very civill and obligeing Gentleman; If he be yet alive he will be Your Interpreter: and if You need not that, he will help You to expede the rest of Your affairs; in short, both his counsell and his company are to be esteemed; He is an <i>English</i> Man born, low in stature and prettie ancient.</p>

<p>You must not faill in this Place to take notice, of the variety of Fruits, &amp; Wines; as the Red <i>Florence</i> Wine, which is counted the best for ordinar Drinking, being stomachical and without Sweetnes. The White <i>Florence</i> Wine, which is Sweet; <i>Verdea,</i> which is delicious small Sweet white Wine; <i>Monte Pulciano,</i> White and Red, both very good Wines, so called from the Place they grow upon, and many more such.</p>

<p> 110 If You happen to be here in the Summer time, especially when the Grapes are Ripe, You will find in the Markets great Varietie of Fowles and small Birds, whereof I intreat You to take notice, but especially of those kinds, that are not common with us, and try to get their Skins, which may be easily done, when the bird hath not been long Dead; the rump must be left at it for preserving of the Taile; The Head, Wings and Feet must be likewise left, and only tbe body taken out, &amp; so the Skin filled with Flax or Cotton. This I intreat You to remember to doe wheresoever You shall happen to be in the Summer time, and if any such occasion Present it self to You in Winter, not to ommit it. </p>

<p> From <i>Florence</i> to <i>Rome</i> You have 140. Miles; there are severall wayes of Travelling, <i>viz.</i> by Coach, by <i>Procaccio</i> or Messenger with whom you agree for so much; as is usuall in <i>France:</i> and by the <i>Viturin,</i> that is, by hyring of Horse at a certain Rate, &amp;
 Paying for Your own entertainment at every part as you pass. 111 If you be acquainted with the customes of the Countrey, and have Language enough to make Your self understood, this last way is the best, because you will be sure to fare better, and cost you no more, than you would otherwise Pay to the Messenger, who will be sure to provide the worst chear for you, that he may make the better for himself: in short, it is best to be Master of your own Purse, and not live at the discretion of Your Conductor. I have forgot hitherto to tell you that there is some Incommoditie for Travellers upon the Road, as to their Bedding, their Cloaths espiecially, the Sheets being for the most part very nasty, and it is but now and then that either money or fair words can procure a Pair of clean Sheets. The best remedy I know is not to put off ones Cloaths, and to wrap ones self, especialy the Head, in their Cloak, that the face and Hands may not touch any unclean thing; in short a litle Patience will do it, and you will be sure to be better accomodated in good Towns. </p>

<p> 112 The places You are to pass by, are Cheifly these as follows. </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>FLORENCE.</H4> <LI>S. Casciano 9 Miles</l> 

<l>Le Tavernelle 8 Miles</l>
 
<l>Pogibonzo 5 Miles</l> 

<l>Staggia 4 Miles</l> 

<l>Siena 9 Miles</l> 

<l>Montarone 5 Miles</l> 

<l>Lucignano 3 Miles</l> 

<l>Bonconvento 5 Miles</l>
 
<l>Tornieri 5 Miles</l> 

<l>S. Quirie 4 Miles</l> 

<l>La Scala 4 Miles</l> 
<l>Ricorso 4 Miles</l> 

<l>La Paglia 5 Miles</l> 

<l>Ponte Centino 9 Miles</l>
 
<l>Acquapendente 2 Miles</l> 

<l>S. Lorenzo 3 Miles</l> 

<l>Bolsena 4 Miles</l> 

<l>Montefiascone 6 Miles</l> 

<l>Viterbo 8 Miles</l> 

<l>Ronciglione 10 Miles</l>
 
<l>Monterosi 8 Miles</l> 

<l>Roma 20 Miles</l> </UL>

<p> 113 There are not many considerable things to be seen upon this Road; <i>Siena</i> was a republick by itself, but was reduced by the Emperour <i>Charles</i> the <i>5th.</i> and by his Son <i>Philip</i> Gifted to the Great Duke of <i>Tuscany,</i>  under whose Power it still Remains. The Town is of a good bigness, and commended for it's Situation, and the purity of the <i>Italian</i> Tongue. The <i>Dome</i> or great Church is a statly Fabrick; it is Paved with Marble, but especialy the Quire, upon which is most Curiously Graven the History of <i>Abraham</i> Sacrificeing his Son, and History of the <i>Maccabees,</i> and for the better Preservation of them they are covered with Matts. There is likewise an entrie from the Church to the Bibliotheck of <i>Aeneas Sylvius,</i> who was born in this Town. He was once Legat from the <i>Pope</i> into <i>Scotland,</i> and afterwards Created <i>Pope</i> himself, and took the name of <i>Pius Secundus.</i> He was a Man of great Learning. The late <i>Pope Alexander</i> VII. was Native of this Place, of the Family of <i>Chigi;</i> his Statue is to be seen in the great Church. The greatest Part of the 114 and the Towre belonging to it are of Black and White Marble without. In the Church of St. <i>Dominic,</i> amongst other Relicts, is preserved the Head of St. <i>Catharine</i> of <i>Siena.</i> The Tovvne is well watered with many fine Fountains. The great place is made with a kind of Descent Theatre ways, so that from the middle of the Place You may see all that walk in it. <i>Montefiascone</i> is famous for a most Delicious Kind of <i>Muscatello</i> Wine, which You must be sure to Tast. The Messenger uses to Dine without the Town, but you will be sure to fare better and get better Wine within; There goes a storie that a <i>German</i> killed himself in this Place with Drinking excessivly of this <i>Muscat.</i> As you goe from thence to <i>Viterbo</i> you will find a kind of <i>Aspalathus,</i> which I take to be <i>Acacia altera Angularae.</i> It growes as high as our Broom, and is plentifull enough, so that you will easily discover it. </p>
<p> From <i>Viterbo,</i> all that distance to <i>Rome</i> is called the <i>Campania</i> of <i>Rome,</i> in which it is thought most dangerous to sleep in 122 the Summer time, therefore if you fortune to travel it in Summer, whither to <i>Rome</i> or from it (the same is under stood of 40. Miles distance round about <i>Rome</i>) you must be sure not to sleep in the <i>Campania,</i>  which you may easily avoid by Travelling in the night. when you arrive at <i>Rome</i> you must give up your name at the Port; your Countrey, the Place from which [...]ou came last, and the house you goe to Lodge at: and from thence you must go <i>a la dogano,</i> or to the Custom House, where your Cloakbag must be Searched, and from thence to your lodg[...]ng place, according to the Billet given [...]ou at the Port, without which no House [...]eeper dare receave a stranger; But they [...]re things of Course and effectuat without any trouble. You will doe well to Lodge in a Pension for the first week, untill you have made some acquaintance, by means whereof you may be fullie informed where to light upon a convenient <i>Camera locanda:</i>  There was two <i>French</i> Pensions, and one <i>English</i> in my time. The first of the <i>French</i> was <i>Al monte d'oro.</i> The second was <i>nella strada del Populo</i> 123 The English pension was in the same <i>strada del Populo, alla villa di Londra:</i> we had severall Countrey men living in the Town in my time, as particularly <i>signior Roberto Pendrick,</i> a worthie old Gentleman, and most obligeing to his Countrey men, he was my particular good friend; and I make no doubt but you will find him so, for I hear he is still alive, and I wish he may be long so. He lives in a House of his own upon the <i>Triuita di monte.</i>  There is an other called <i>Signior don Gulielmo Lesly,</i> He is Chaplain to Cardinal <i>Carlo Barberino</i> and lives <i>nella Cancellaria.</i> I dare be confident to give you this man for one of the most faithfull Friends in the World, and one in whose goodness, prudence, Kindness, and good Conduct you may trust ten Thousand Lives: to be short you will find I am not mistaken, when I call him <i>deliciae humani generis,</i> for in all my lifetime I never knew another like him, make it their whole work and study to find opportunities to oblige every Countrey-man according to his condition: The p[...]r of 124 them, with Food and Rayment and whatsoever else they may stand in need of, and all other men with continual offices of civility. By his means you will get to see many of these things I shall recommend to you hereafter. If I Know of your going to <i>Italy</i> in time, I shall have a Letter there before you. Your best convenience for Lodging and Diet will be <i>a Camera Locanda.</i>  You may take it in that place of the town that suits best with your occasions, you will pay for it by the month, less or more according to the goodness of the Chamber and furniture thereof. As for your diet it will be drest in the House, and you must tell at night what you Intend to eat next day, that they may provide it for you: As for the prices you cannot be easily Cheated, because as to that, most things are Regulated, And in the quantitie it is not possible you should be overreached because all things are sold by weight. There are severall Kinds of Bread used in this City, but that which is called <i>Papaline</i> is undoubtedly the best. There are likewise many sorts of Wines, 125 some of them <i>Galliardi</i> or strong, as <i>Greco, Muscatello di Saragosa, Lagrima</i> &amp;c. others are <i>Legieri,</i> or small, and they are many; the best for common use is <i>Albano,</i> which You may drink pure: and it is remarkable that there are but few places in <i>Italy</i> where Water may be Drunk safely, and because one may be mistaken in the choise, the best remedy is to Drink none at all. There are great variety of fruits according to the Seasons of the year, I shal only desire you to be cautious, and not to eat too much or too often of any, but especialy, of <i>Melons, Cucumbers,</i>  and the <i>Malanzane,</i> or <i>mala insana,</i> which are a Kind of <i>Solanum Pomiferum.</i> There are good store and Many Kinds of Fishes, especialy Sea Fish, whereof the best are, <i>Sols, il Pisce Capone</i> &amp;c. The <i>Tunino</i> is a great Fish as big as our <i>Salmond,</i> and Red like it, but harder and dryer a great deale, the bellie of it is verie fatt and they use to Salt and sell it in the Taverns, being sliced in small peeces upon a Trencher; Fresh <i>Sturgeon</i>  is very common; <i>Lobsters</i> are much harder and worse to disgest 126 than ours: as for fleshes, <i>Bufalo</i> is only eaten by the Poorer sort of people; Beif which they call <i>Vacina</i> is good; <i>Vitella campo reccia,</i> or Hudron is good, but above all the <i>Vitella mongana</i> or sucking Veal. Lamb is worth nothing, nor Mutton either, which they call <i>Castrato,</i> and serves only to make Broath for Sick People; Kids are good. In the Winter-time there is is abundance of <i>Sangliers</i> or wild Boars, as also <i>Porcepics.</i> The Snow in that season, driving them from the Hills to the Valleys, where they are Killed by the Hunters. There is likeways great Variety of Fowl. There is none so common as Quailes, at two seasons of the year, that is, the Spring when they come into <i>Italy,</i> and the latter end of <i>Autumn,</i> at which time they are much fatter and better when they go from it. It is said that they draw together to the Coast side, and there wait for the rest of their number a whole Moneth, and then at last, their <i>Caravan</i>  being complete, they flee away nearer the Sunn in a great cloud. The <i>Pigione Sotto hanca</i> are the biggest and 127 fattest, and best for eating in the world: they are good in all seasons of the year. About the time of Vintage there are great Variety of small Birds, all very fatt &amp; good, and at easie Rates, amongst which the <i>Ortolani,</i> and <i>Beccafiche</i> are most esteemed. </p>

<p>
 As for the things to be seen here, they are so many, and so considerable, that it would require a large Volume to describe them, and there are abundance of such Books extant, to which I referr you, and especially to one in 80. called <i>L' Antichita di Roma di Andrea Fulvio:</i> but you must not fail to get an <i>Antiquario,</i> who for a certain Summ of two or three Crowns will show you all the particular Antiquities and considerable places of the Town, and as for the fuller information of them your Book will serve you: I shall only hint at somethings worthie to be taken notice of; 1. The Court; that is, the Pope, Cardinals, Prelates, Monsigniorie &amp;c. There are some great Holy days, when the Pope Celebrats Mass in person; it will be sit to 128 wait upon some of these occasions, for then you will see the Grandeur of the Court and the forme of a Cavalcata, together with the Popes ordinary Guards. 2. The Churches. 3. The Palaces; especially those of the <i>Vatican,</i> together with the Bibliotheck and Gardens of <i>Belvidere,</i> in which amongst other things take particular notice of the statue of <i>Ly[...]aon</i>  with the Serpents wreathed about him; There is an other Garden also belonging to the <i>Vatican,</i> in which there are many exotick Plants, it was planted by the Popes order, by <i>Tobias Aldinus</i> and is Keept still in reasonable good order; amongst other things you will find the <i>Cameripses,</i> or <i>Camedactylus,</i> of the bigness of a Low Tree and carrying Fruit; there is likewise a <i>Grotta</i> or water work, and very fine Fountains of water, about which grows plentifully the <i>Capillus veneris Major</i> or <i>Ramosus.</i> and <i>Arum Aegyptium Mathioli, sive Colocasia,</i> which is a plant carying no stalk, flowr nor fruit in <i>Italy</i> (I know not what it does in its native Soyle) but only broad Leaves very large and round. </p>

<p> 129 The Palace of <i>Farnese;</i> and in it that Gallery whereof the Painting in <i>Fresco</i> by <i>Aniball Caraccio</i> is so famous, and the <i>Tauro</i> which is kept in a little House a part, in the back court of the Palace. It is the noblest piece of Art extant in <i>Rome</i>  altho it be very antient, as being one of those named by <i>Pliny,</i> to have been in his time in <i>Foro Trajani;</i> yet it is not only intire, but as beautifull as if it had never been moved out of the place it stands in now. </p>

<p> The Palace of <i>Principe Pamphilio;</i> it stands in the <i>Piazza Navona,</i> where you may take notice of that Glorious Fountain made by Cavelier <i>Bernini,</i> whereupon the top of a little artificial Rock, are placed, four great delicate Marble Statues, representing the foure great Rivers of the World, and each of them pouring out of a Vale placed under one Arme, a great quantitie of Water, and in the middle of the four there stands one of these <i>Gulias</i> graven with <i>Aegyptian Hieroglyphicks,</i>  brought from <i>A[...]gypt</i> by the Antient <i>Romans.</i> They use to 130 stop the way-goe of the Water, sometimes in the Summer, and lett the Place overflow with Water, and then People come toward the evening, in their Coaches, and drive softly up and down the water to take the <i>fresco,</i> which is one of the greatest <i>Gusto</i>'s in <i>Rome.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Palazzo Borghese,</i> Standing near to the <i>Ripetta. Palazza Palistrino;</i> and in it the library, where you may see two copies of the <i>Hortus Eystetensis,</i> one illuminated and the other not; Mr. <i>Lesty</i> will command you a sight of that when you please, for it belongs to <i>Cardinall Francisco Barberino.</i></p>

<p> The Popes Palace of <i>Monte Cavallo,</i> and the Gardens thereof. 4. The <i>Villa</i>'s: as first that of <i>Borghese,</i> which is without the walls: there is a particular Book to be sold by the House keeper, that sufficiently descrives it and all the beauties of it, to which I Refer you. <i>2ly.</i> the <i>villa</i>  or <i>Palazzo medici,</i> belonging to the great Duke of <i>Tuscany.</i> It stands upon the <i>monte Trinita,</i> the Hall is adorned with a great many Pillars standing 131 about the Walls, of most delicat Marbles, and the Originalls of a great many <i>Illustres</i> and <i>virtuosi.</i> In one of the Chambers there is a most beautifull statue of <i>Venus,</i> of <i>Grecian</i>  Antiquitie. In the Garden there is a Noble statue of <i>Cleopatra,</i> the Ruins whereof were repared by <i>Michaell Angelo bona rota,</i> and many other statues <i>Base Releiv</i>'s and <i>Vases,</i> which for Brevities sake I must omit, and refer you to the particular Books that treat of those things, But most of all to your own diligence in viewing them and keeping a punctuall Register of all that you see, and so I shall only name some of the <i>Villa</i>'s that remain, and are most considerable. As the <i>Villa Montalto;</i> The <i>Villa Ludovisi,</i> where amongst other Admirable things the statue of the dying <i>Gladiator</i>  is excellent. The <i>Villa Farnesi;</i> The <i>Villa Pamphilio,</i> which is a pretie way without the walls, and the rest which I leave to your sight. </p>

<p> <i>5ly.</i> The Castle of <i>St. Angelo,</i> which formerly was the Burial Place of <i>Hadrian</i>  132 the Emperor. 6. The Hospitalls; Particularly that of St. <i>Spirito,</i> which is a most magnificent Structure, and well appointed in all things. They will show you amongst other remarkable things, the Place where the Children of such a Bigness are permitted to be put in, without any further inquirie made after them, or who brought them. By this means the Life of many a Child hath ben saved, which otherways would have been taken away to prevent the disgrace of the Parents. They are no sooner put in, but Nurses are got for them: If they be Boyes, when they come to a convenient Age they are put to Trades, according ro their several Inclinations and Capacities. But if they be Girles, then when they come to the Years of discretion, if they incline not to a Religious Life, every one of them is provided with so much Portion to Marry her with, out of the common revenue of the House; And then upon a certain Day appointed for that purpose; all <i>Zitelle</i> or maids come in Procession, one after another, 133 with their Faces Vail'd, and the Men that come there upon such Days, of purpose to choose a Wife, (for all of them have a like Portions) pitch upon such as please them best, and present them a Nosegay, after which, she is sequestred from the rest, &amp; the Marriage Solemniz'd, after the Man has given Information of himself and sufficient Caution that he shall provide a Lively-hood for her. There is a very fine little Garden that belongs to the Hospital lying just upon the <i>Tyber.</i> It uses to be well furnished with Plants, and I have seen the <i>Dictamnus Creticus</i> in flowre there. <i>7ly.</i> The Convents; as particularly the <i>French Minims</i>  upon the <i>Monte Trinita.</i> In the upper Gallerie of their Cloyster there is a Dyall, where the Sun beams, entering by a small round hole, Point the Hours. It was made by <i>Marsennus</i> that famous Mathematician, a Father of their Countrie and Order. They have likeways, in a particular part of their Garden some rare Plants, as <i>Malus punica flore amplissimo pleno &amp; Variegato.</i> </p>

<p> 134 The <i>Minerva;</i> which was anciently the Temple of <i>Minerva,</i> and now is the Chief Convent of the <i>Domini[...]ans</i>  in <i>Rome.</i> In my time there was a <i>French</i> Father there called <i>Padre Barilieri</i> Secretarie to the General for his Nation; He was a great Virtuoso, and exceedingly well versed in the whole Historie of Nature; He had a very Curious Collection of many Naturall Things, and was about to have Published a Large Book in <i>Folio,</i> wherein he had designed a Natural History, with a great many cutts, which he showed me. If the Book be Published, I should be very glad to see it; if he be alive, it will be worth your while to procure his acquaintance. He hath also a Garden well stored with Plants at St. <i>Xisto.</i> </p>

<p>The <i>Roman</i> Colledge; where there is a famous shop and Laboratorie for <i>Pharmacie,</i> as also a Garden.</p>

<p> <i>8ly.</i> The Capitol; the middle of the Place before it, is the Statue of the Emperour <i>Marcus Aurelius,</i> a Horse-back in Brass; It was brought thither from the 135 Place before St. <i>John de Lateran,</i> and is thought one of the best Modells in the World. At the Top of the Staires, as you enter into the place are two Horses, one on every side held by a Slave in Marble. They were brought thither from the Ruines of <i>Pompey</i>'s Theatre. There is also in the same Place two Trophies of <i>Marius;</i> there is also <i>Columna milliaris,</i> with a Brass-ball on the Top of it; there used to be such a one at every miles end, upon the common Roads; &amp; from thence came their Fashion of counting the miles <i>per Lapides,</i> as <i>primo ab urbe Lapide</i>  was a mile from the Town &amp;c. The Capitol, as it now is, consists of three Palaces all of Excellent <i>Architecture,</i> and beautified, both within and without with Painting, Statues, and other Monuments of antiquitie; the particular Relation whereof I referr to the Books that are written thereof, and particularly to one called <i>Roma antica &amp; Moderna,</i> &amp; to the particular demonstration of the <i>Antiquario,</i> for I find it will be utterly impossible to discourse of every 136 particular, unless I should resolve to compile a Volumn. </p>

<p> The rest of the Monuments, and rests or rather ruins of Antiquitie, I shall pass over, and only name a few of them; as for example, first, the Walls of the City, which were built by <i>Bellisarius</i> Captain of the Guards to <i>Justinian</i> the Emperour. The breaches have been repaired by severall <i>Popes.</i> The Ports for the most part are the same they were anciently, only the <i>Porta del populo</i> was made a great deal more stately, at the first Entrie of <i>Chris[...]ina</i>  Queen of <i>Sweden</i> into <i>Rome.</i> There is a long courten of the Wall betwixt <i>Porta del populo</i> and <i>Villa Borghese,</i> under which it seems the Ground has misgiven, so that the Wall bendeth, &amp; is therefore called <i>Muro torto.</i> Near to this place also, is the Burial Place <i>delle Cortegiane,</i> there being no Christian Burial or Holy Ground allowed to such persones. There is good Herbarizing about the walls, especially on the out-side, and particularly you will find a Plant there which is not common else where, at 137 least that I have observed, viz. <i>Sature[...]a Spicata sive Thymbra S. Juliani[...]  [...] Satureia vera Lobelii.</i> Upon the Wall of the City, close by the Port of St. <i>Paul[...]</i> in <i>via ostiensi;</i> there is yet extant a Pyramid built of Marble, which was the Burial Place of <i>C. Ces[...]ius Septemvir Epulonum. Secondly.</i>  The old Temples; whereof there are so many that it would be tedious to describe them all, I shall only name some, <i>viz.</i> The <i>Pantheon</i> now called <i>Madonna della rotunda;</i> It was built by <i>Marcus Agrippa,</i> Son-in law to <i>Augustus Caesar,</i> in Honour of all the Gods. It had the Fortune to escape almost totaly, the ruine, and fury, which the Goths &amp; Vandals brought upon the <i>Roman Empire</i>  and magnificence thereof. I admire the Roofe of it, being so large and so flat without any Pillar, to support it, and altho' it be a Vault, it hath no nevilstone to bind it in the middle, but in place thereof a round hole so wide that it lights the whole Roome abundantly, nor is there any other Window in the Fabrick. The next thing I admire in it is 138 [...]he Doore-Cheeks and couple which is all of one Peece of white Marble. The Door opens in two leaves, very wide &amp; very high, they were covered with <i>Corinthian</i> Brass, as was also the whole Roofe, until the time of <i>Vrban</i> VIII. who took it off, and covered it with Lead as it now is, and made thereof the great Altar of St. <i>Peters,</i> and some peeces of Ordinance, that are keept in the Castel St. <i>Angelo,</i> as will testifie a particular inscription at the side of the pantheon Doore, made by the <i>Popes</i>  command. Upon this occasion was that <i>Pasquinad; Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecere Barberini.</i> It has a most stately <i>Portico</i> before the Gate, of a great many large tall Pillars of Egyptian black and white speckled Marble; the descent into the <i>Portico</i> from the Street is of ten or twelve steps, but it is said, before the ruine of the City, that there was as great an ascent to it; whence it may be gathered, what an universal &amp; great devastation of buildings must there have been to fill up so great a deepth. And indeed it is observed, 139 that when they have any occasion to dig, it is long before they come, in most places, to the <i>terra Virgine,</i> that is, which hath not formerly been broke upon: and when they are digging into old ruins, for <i>Anticails</i> (as they are continually doing in severall places) they leave off when they come to the <i>Terra Virgine.</i>  Before the <i>Portico</i> there is a large coffine, with it's cover and supporters of Porphyre which they commonly call <i>Agrippa</i>'s <i>Tombe.</i> </p>

<p>Near to the entrie of the Camp of <i>Vacino,</i> at the bottom of the back stairs that lead to the Capitol, there is a Chapel under ground, which was formerly the Prison of St. <i>Peter</i> and St. <i>Paul,</i> when they suffered for the Holy name of <i>JESVS.</i>  It was then called <i>Tullianum,</i> according to that of <i>Cicero; est locus in carcere quod Tullianum appellatur.</i> The Temple of <i>Saturn</i> is hard by, which in ancient times was the <i>Aerarium publicum,</i> in which the Publick Treasury was keept.</p>

<p>
 Thirdly, the <i>Amphitheatres;</i> most part of which are Ruined, especially that 140 which was built by <i>Titus,</i> now [...]alled the <i>Coliseo;</i> by the part thereof that is standing you may abundantly Judge of the Magnificence of the whole, when it was extant. There is good Herborizing within it, and there is one <i>Dominicus Pa[...]arolus</i>  that hath Writen <i>Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium;</i> with the rest of his works in [...]0. <i>Romae, apud [...]ranciscum Monetam</i> 1652. to which I refer You. </p>

<p>Fourthly, the <i>Aqueducts;</i>  of which the most part are ancient: when they come near to the City, they are convey'd under ground to several Fountains in the City, and some of them so deep, that it is Prodigious by what art they could have Peirc't so deep, as for example, the <i>Aqua Virgine,</i> which is the sweetest and best for use in all <i>Rome,</i> is conducted so deep thro' the <i>Monte Trinita,</i> That in the <i>French Minims</i> Garden there is a descent of six or seven score steps to come at it. Amongst all the Fountains in <i>Rome</i> the most beautifull are in the <i>Piazza Navona,</i> in the <i>Piazza</i> St. <i>Pietro,</i> the <i>Tre Fountane, &amp;c,</i></p>

<p> 141 <i>5ly</i> The <i>Thermae,</i> or Baths; as the <i>Thermae Diocletianae</i> built by the Emperour <i>Diocletian.</i> It is said that ten thousand Christians were imployed about this work, and all cruely Massacred when they had finished it. It is now a Monastery of <i>Carthusians,</i>  in whose common Garden I remember to have seen the Myrtus <i>Buxifoliis.</i> The ruins of <i>Thermae Antonini Caracallae;</i> they are situated <i>ad Radicem Collis Aventinae.</i> I have seen amongst these Ruins that kynd of Capillary, which is called <i>Hemionitis,</i> and no where else that I Remember of. </p>

<p>
 Sixthly the two Columns of <i>Antoninus,</i> and <i>Tra[...]an</i> Emperours; The Statue of St. <i>Peter</i> stands upon the Top of one, and that of St. <i>Paul</i> upon the other: <i>Trajan</i> was so well beloved of the People that to make a place, which in honour of him they called <i>forum Trajani,</i> in the midle of which this Column stands, they levelled a great Hill, of the precise hight of the Column it self. Both the Columns are of white Marble, and all the out side Historified in base relieue, 142 in a spirall line beginning at the bottom and ending at the top. That of <i>Trajan</i>  hath the whole storie of the <i>Dacian</i> War. There is a great Book in <i>Folio</i> of this Column, wherein all the figures are cutt in Brass, and the Large description thereof added. I have forgot the Authors name, but I believe You will find the Book <i>Al insegna di Parigi alla pace</i> from <i>Jacomo Rossi.</i> where you will likewise find all other sorts of Prints and T[...]lledouces. The Columne of <i>Antoni[...]us&#0183;</i>  is 160 foot High and that of <i>Trajan</i> 128. Altho' they apear to be but smal yet each of them hath a Stair-Case within, that leads to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable, as that which stands before St. <i>Maria Majore,</i> which was one of the Pillars of the <i>Templum Pacis,</i> brought hither by <i>Paulus</i> V. who placed a Brasen Statue of the Blessed Virgine upon the Top thereof. There is likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a Crucifix on the Top of it, erected in memorie of the absolution given to <i>Henry</i> the IV. King of <i>France;</i> In the 143 Capitoll likewise there are two <i>viz.</i> the <i>Columna milliaris,</i> of which already, and the <i>Columna Rostrata,</i> which you will see when you view the fine things within that part of the Capitoll whi[...]h stands next to the River, where the Hill is most steep and was anciently called <i>Tarpeia Rupes.</i>  </p>

<p>Seventhly, the Triumphall Arches; as particularly that of <i>Septimius Severus;</i> That of <i>Titus;</i> and that of <i>Constantine</i> &amp;c.</p>

<p>Eighthly, the Bridges upon the River. Ninthly, the <i>Obelisks;</i>  most part whereof are graven with <i>Aegyptian Hieroglyphicks.</i> The best of them is erected in the middle of the place before St. <i>Peters,</i> upon the back of four Brazen Lyons, and a large Pedestal of Marble. The next best is at the <i>Porta dell Populo.</i></p>

<p> Tenthly, the <i>Septem Colles</i> or <i>Montes;</i> upon which <i>Rome</i> is said to be built <i>viz. Mons Capitolinus, Mons Palatinus, Mons Aventinus, Mons Celius, Mons Esquiline[...]s.</i>  (where the House of <i>Virgil</i> was and the Garden of <i>Mecoenas,) Mons Viminalis</i> 144 and <i>Mons Quirinalis,</i> called now <i>Monte Cavallo</i> where the Popes Palace is. </p>

<p>Eleventhly, some other Hills: as the <i>Janicular,</i> which is a Chain of Hills without the Walls in the <i>Trans[...]evere.</i> And the <i>Mons Testaceus,</i> which is nothing but a heap of broken earthen Pots and bricks; for in ancient times these were so much in use; and the <i>Figuli</i> or Tradesmen that made them, so numerous, that there was a necessity of appointing them a particular place, and that by publick edict, for throwing the Ru[...]bish of their Furnaces and the pot sheards that broke in the Baking into, least otherwise if it had been permitted to throw them into the River, it might have occasioned an [...]nundation of the City. In process of time it grew to the bignes of the third part of a Mile in Compass, and a Hundred &amp;
 Sixtie foot in hight. This Hill is within the Walls not far from the side of the River, as also <i>Mons Vaticanus</i> in <i>Trans[...]evere,</i> so called <i>a Vaticiniis</i> which used to be made there: The Palace of the <i>Vatican</i> stands upon it.</p>

<p> 145 Twelthly, <i>Roma subterranea;</i> commonly called the <i>Catacombs,</i> whereof <i>Bosio</i> hath writen a large Volumn in <i>Folio.</i> There are two of them, both without the Walls. One of them is at St. <i>Sebastion</i>'s Church. They are <i>Caverns</i>  digg'd under ground in the forme of a Town, that is, larger and lesser streets crossing one another, in some place lower so that You must be forced to stoop, but in others higher than a Mans hight, and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the other, as thick as they can stand one by another, are holes or nests wherein were placed the bodies of the Dead, one by one, upright upon their feet, and so the nests Plastered over. The Bodies and reliques of many Saints and Martyrs have been found here, and were known to be such by the Cross found upon their Sepulchers, with this Inscription <i>Pro CHRISTO.</i> You must take good lights and a good guide to conduct You, for some have mistaken their Way and never found an outgate. The Second, I need not describe it. </p>

<p> 146 There are severall things about <i>Rome</i> worthie the taking notice of, as 1. <i>Ponte mola</i> a Bridge standing upon the <i>Tevere;</i> in Latine <i>Anio,</i> some two miles from the Town, before it joynes with the <i>Tyber.</i>  You go to it by the Port <i>del Populo.</i> It is considerable for it's Antiquity. It was at this Bridge that <i>Constantine</i> the great vanquished <i>Maxentius</i> the Tyrant: There having appeared to him before the Battle, in the Firmament, a red Cross with these words <i>in hoc Signo vinces.</i> the story is Painted in <i>fresco</i> in the Palace of the <i>vatican</i> by a great Master, where You may see it and You will seldome miss Painters in the Roome a Copying of it. 2. The City of <i>Tivali,</i> in Latin <i>Tibur;</i> by the way You will pass a little River, The Sulphureous and noysome smell whereof You will perceive at a Miles distance; it is of a whitish Colour as if Meall were mingled with it; there is a white slymie Sulphureous substance adhering to the sydes and bottom of it, which is soft whilest it is under Water, but being once dryed becomes very hard, 147 they use to make counterfeit comfits, <i>&amp;</i> which they call comfits of <i>Tivoli</i> and use to Cheat People with them for sports sake. The River runs into the <i>Tiverone</i> and spoils the Water thereof, and in my Opinion, does much harme the Water of the <i>Tyber</i>  it self, because the <i>Tiverone</i> joyns with it before it come at the City of <i>Rome.</i> The Town is verie ancient, having several marks of great Antiquity, as <i>Sybilla</i>'s Temple, <i>&amp;c.</i> close by the Town the River <i>Teveron[...]</i>  falling from a great hight over a Rock makes that famous <i>Cascata</i> so much talked of. It makes a horrid noise and continues frothy and working for a good way below the fall, and hath made a Million of meanders and strange figures in the Rock where it falls. A little below the fall there is a Bridge over it of a considerable hight above the Water, where if You stand a while you will perceive a dew able to wet you, which arises from the fall of the Water after the River is fallen. Several parts of it are conveyed by aqueducts into the Town for severall uses; as namely 148 one part for the Brass works, where You may observe, that the Waeer blowes the fire, not by moving the Bellowes (which is common) but by affording the Wind; an other part of it is carried to the <i>Villa d' Este</i> where there is a curious Palace and most curious Gardens with all sorts of Ingenious Water Works and other ornaments, as statues <i>&amp;c,</i> belonging to Gardens. Amongst other things there are several Artificial Birds, that sing their natural Notes by the help of the Water. There is an Organ that plays sweetly, moved only by the Water, which also furnisheth it Wind. The <i>Girandola</i> is considerable, where the water rises in a gross Body very High, and the ayr being Artificially mixed therewith, makes a noice that exactly imitats Thunder. <i>Tivoli</i> is some eighteen or twentie Miles distant from <i>Rome</i> You may easily go from <i>Rome</i> and see all things considerable there, &amp; returne the same day to <i>Rome,</i> unless You please rather to goe to <i>Frescati,</i> which is a most delicious litle Toun about twelve Miles distant from <i>Rome,</i> standing upon the side of a Hill, from whence 149 in clear weather You may easily discover <i>Rome.</i> The Place is beautifi'd with many delicat <i>Villa</i>'s about it, amongst which the most considerable are, first, the <i>Belvidere</i> belonging now to the <i>Principe Pamphilio,</i> the water works whereof are esteemed the best in <i>Italy:</i> There is a Centaur that Winds a Horne by the help of the Water, with that Loudness, that it can be heard at six or seven Miles distance. There is a low Room which they call the <i>Apollo,</i> at the end of which <i>Apollo</i> sits upon the Top of an artificial <i>Parnassus.</i> with the nine Muses about him, he with his Harp, and they with their severall Instruments of Musick, which play by the help of the Water, which is convoyed under ground and is not seen within the Room. About the middle of the Room there is a little hole, out of which the Wind (occasioned by the motion of the Water underneath) comeing furth, hath so much strength as to support a wooden Ball, of the bigness of a Tennes ball, at half a ell's distance and more from the floor, without ever letting it fall 150 to the ground. <i>2ly.</i> At half a miles distance from <i>Frescati</i> are the Ruins of <i>Cicero</i>'s <i>Tusculanum,</i> and <i>Lucullo</i>'s country House; as also a curious <i>villa</i> called <i>monte Dragone,</i> where the House is well adorned with Paintings, <i>&amp;c.</i> and the Gardens with water works. </p>

<p><i>3ly</i> If You desire not to Returne to <i>Rome</i> first, You may goe directly from hence to <i>Castello gondolfo,</i> which is about [...]ive miles distant from <i>Frescati,</i> and fourteen from <i>Rome.</i>  It is a most delicious Countrey House of the Popes, To which he uses to retire some Moneths in the Summer, for the good Air's sake, it hes the Prospect of a most delicat lake, encompased with Hills, that are all shadowed with Trees, where amongst other pleasures you will not want that of Herbarizing.</p>

<p> Being returned to <i>Rome</i> you may make another little Journey with your convenience to <i>Ostia,</i> which is some twelve miles distant from <i>Rome</i> doun the River <i>Tyber,</i>  it was of old the great Harbour for all the Ships and Gallies that belonged 151 City and Empyre, cutt out as it seems by Art, but now thro' long neglect filled up and useless. Having seen all and dyned, you may returne before night to <i>Rome;</i> it will be fit you be at the pains to make another Journey to <i>Caprarolla,</i> one of the noblest Palaces in <i>Italy,</i> built by the famous Architect <i>Vignoli,</i> by order of Cardinal <i>Alexander Farnese.</i> It belonges to the Duke of <i>Parma.</i> It is distant from <i>Rome</i> Miles It is in <i>figure, pentagone,</i> having five very High and equal faces, with a Court perfectly round in the middle, as likewise are the Galleries and Corredor's about it. Morover there is almost as much lodging below ground as above. The Hangings, Statues, Pictures, as also the Gardens, Fountains, and other embellishments, doe well sute the magnificence of the Palace. </p>

<p> Having seen <i>Rome</i> and the Places about it. It will be fit to make the Voyage of <i>Naples.</i> The Months of <i>April</i> and <i>October</i> are most convenient for this Journey, the heat being too great in Summer, 152 and the Snow and Raine troublesome in Winter. </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Rome to Naples.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i> 

<l>Miles.</l> <i>Marin[...], </i> 

<l>12</l>
 <i>Velitre, </i> 

<l>08.</l> <i>Sezza </i> 

<l>15</l> <i>Biperno,</i> 

<l> 04</l>
 <i>Terrazina,</i> 

<l> 10.</l> <i>Portella,</i> 

<l> 03.</l> <i>Fondi,</i>  

<l> 05.</l> <i>Itri, </i> 

<l>05.</l> <i>Mola.</i> 

<l> 04.</l>
 <i>Tragetto, </i> 

<l>10.</l> </UL> <UL> </br> <H4>Pass the River Garrigliano.</H4> <i>Sessa,</i> 

<l> 07.</l>
 <i>Carionole,</i> 

<l> 04.</l> <i>Capua,</i> 

<l> 12.</l> <i>Auersa,</i>  

<l> 07.</l> <i>Naples </i> 

<l>08.</l> <i>&nbsp;</i> 

<l>114.</l> </UL>

<p> 153 As You go out at the Port St. <i>Gioua[...]ni,</i> all along the <i>Campania</i> on every side of the High-way, You will meet with many Ruins of Ancient Burial-Places for several Miles from the City. </p>

<p><i>Velitre;</i> is an Ancient City of the <i>Volsci,</i> much famed also for the Parents of <i>Octavius Augustus,</i> who were Originaly of this Place. Upon the Way from <i>Veletri</i> to <i>Sezza,</i> upon the Hill-side under <i>Sarninetta,</i> there are some Ancient Ruins supposed to be the <i>Tres Taberna[...],</i>  of which St. <i>Luke</i> speaks in the 28. Chapter of <i>the Acts of the Apostles.</i></p>

<p><i>Sezza,</i> formerly <i>Setia;</i> was much commended for its Wine, whence that of <i>Juvenal.</i></p>
 </br> ---Tunc illa time cum pocula sume&#0183; Gemmata &amp; lato Setinum ardebit in auro.</br> 
<p> <i>Piperno;</i> in Latin <i>Privernum;</i> and the Inhabitants <i>Privernati;</i> near to this 154 Place, <i>Iris Florentina,</i> grows abundantly. </p>

<p> <i>Terracina;</i> was Anciently called <i>Auxur,</i> in the Language of the <i>Volsci,</i> of whom this was the <i>Metropolis. Strabo</i> sayeth that it was called <i>Trachina, quasi Aspera</i> from the Rockiness of the Hill upon which it is Placed; altho' the Town be Ancient, it is not very considerable, it is the last Place of the Ecclesiastick Estate towards <i>Naples;</i> Passengers use to Dine here at a pittiful <i>Inn</i> without the Town, where there is no manner of Furniture, but VVood to make Fire: it not being secure for any Body to live in it, because of the Turks that often Land here, and take what they can meet with. VVhen the People that keep the House see any Strangers Arrive, instantly they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town. The Sea comes very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town stands, and on that side which is towards <i>Naples,</i> the Rock is precipitious, and betwixt it and the Sea, leaves but a very narrow and strait Passage, which one Man 155 may Guarde against a Hundred. <i>Fondi</i>  is the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of <i>Naples;</i> here you must give notice to the Officers appointed for that purpose of your intended Journey for <i>Naples,</i> and cause registrat your Name, together with the marks of your Horse, that he may be the better known when you return, to be the same that you brought along with you from <i>Rome,</i> or otherways you will not miss to be challenged upon your return, and stopt, untill you can produce a Certificat that he is the very same you brought into the Kingdom with you. There being a General Prohibition, the observance whereof is Strictly lookt to, against carrieing Horses or Mares out of the Kingdom, into any foreign part, least the breede of them, which is esteemed amongst the best in <i>Europe,</i> should become common to other Nations. Notwithstanding of this severity, sometimes with credit, and sometimes with a little Money, a Man may obtain permission for the 156 Transporting of one or more, either Horses or Mares. </p>

<p><i>Mola,</i> is one of the most pleasant places in rhe World; being close upon the Sea side, and but a little way from <i>Gaieta,</i> to which you may go either by Sea or Land. It is likeways hard by the ruins of the Ancient City <i>Formiae,</i> where <i>Cicero</i>  had his <i>Villa Formiana.</i> The place abounds with many plants, and great Varietie of the choisest Fruits; especially the Agrumi, such as Citrons, Oranges, Limons &amp;c, of all sorts.</p>

<p> If ye please to go to <i>Gaieta,</i> it is worth the while: It stands at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that runs out into the Sea, from the main-Land about three miles, and by that means becomes peninsule, and formeth on the side towards <i>Rome,</i> betwixt it and <i>Terracina,</i> that <i>Sinus Gaitanus,</i> about twelve miles in length. The Town is pleasantly Situated and strongly. There is a great Rock hard by, which is rent from Top to Bottom, which they say, happened when the Saviour of the 157 World Suffered upon the Cross. There is excellent Herbarizing all the way betwixt it and <i>Mola.</i>  </p>

<p> <i>Trajetto</i> is a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of <i>Minturnae</i> stood, where there is yet to be seen an Amphitheatre almost intire, and the remains of a great Aqueduct: It was amongst the Marishes near to <i>Minturnae,</i> that <i>C. Marius</i> did hide himself, when he fled from his Enemies; whence that of <i>Juvenal,</i>  </br> </br> Exilium &amp; carcer Minturnarum{que} Paludes, </br> Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine Panis. </br> </p>

<p>You must pass at this place the River <i>Garigliano,</i> called <i>Li[...]is</i>  Anciently.</p>

<p> <i>Capua,</i> is a new City standing upon the side of the River <i>Vulturnus,</i> and some two miles from it, the Ruins of the Old famous <i>Capua</i> which in the Old <i>Romans</i>  Time, was esteemed one of the most delicious Places in the VVorld. There are yet Vestiges of the Gates of the City, of a Theatre, of a great many sumptuous Temples, Cisternes under gronnd, and a great many other 158 things; that evidently show it to have been a magnificent City. The Country from <i>Vulturnus</i> to <i>Naples,</i> is called the <i>Campania Felice,</i> and is indeed the fertilest soyle and bautifullest Country that my Eyes ever beheld. </p>

<p><i>Aversa</i> is a new City, extructed out of the Ruins of <i>Atella,</i> It is distant 8 Miles from <i>Naples,</i> and famed for a kind of Wine called <i>Asprin[...].</i></p>

<p> That way which leades from <i>Rome</i> to <i>Naples,</i> was Anciently called <i>Via Appia,</i> from <i>Appius Claudius</i> the Censor, who caused Pave this way from <i>Rome,</i> just to <i>Capua.</i> It begins at the Port now called St. <i>Sebastian,</i> but Anciently <i>Porta Capena,</i> from the <i>Capenati</i> a people of <i>Latium,</i> to which that way did lead. The <i>Via Appia</i> is of that breadth that one <i>Chariot</i> may easily pass another. The Emperour <i>Trajan</i> did renew it, and continue the Pavement even to <i>Brindici,</i>  drying the marishes, plaining the Hills, and filling up the Valleyes. By this way Anciently did pass the greatest part of the Triumphs; whence it 159 was called <i>Regina viarum:</i> whence that of <i>Papinius;</i> </p>

<p>Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum.</p>

<p> Altho' this way be Ruined in many places, yet it is wonderfull to see, in how great perfection a great deal of it continues. Without doubt it has been a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length, and Breadth so well paved, with Quadrangular Stones, that even to this Day (altho' it be of common &amp; frequent Passage) continueth as intire as if it were newly done. Upon both sides of this way, as far as <i>Capua,</i> there are a great many Ancient Sepulchres; many whereof are altogether ruined, and some almost intire, as yet; in one of these Sepulchres, in the Reign of <i>Alexander</i>  VI. (as <i>Volateranus</i> tells) the Body of a Delicat young VVoman, was found altogether intire in a Marble Chist. She was of incomparable beautie having her long Flaxen Hair drawn together upon her Head with a Circle of Gold. The Body did almost swim in a mervellous kind of Liquor and had a 160 burning Lamp at the Feet thereof, which the Air, coming in at the opening of the Sepulchre, did instantly extinguish. The Body (as did appear by the Letters graven upon the place) had lyen there thirteen Hundred Years. Some have been of Opinion that it was the Body of <i>Tulliola,</i> the dearly Beloved Daughter of <i>Cicero.</i> It was presented in its integrity to the Conservators of <i>Rome,</i> and for some Days keept in the Capitol as a singular curiosity; but <i>Pope Alexder</i> coming to understand it, caused it to be thrown into the <i>Tyber.</i>  </p>
<p> I must not omit to tell you, that there is some incommoditie in this Journey both as to Dyeting and Lodging; and sometimes there is perill from the Banditi; But he that will gather Roses, must not be affraid to prick his Fingers: Besides, that danger is but sometimes, and you may probably find the way clear, especially, if the <i>Vice-Roy</i> be a stirring Active Man, as it often happens: For then the Banditi will hardly dare to 161 come so far down from the Hills&#0183; as the <i>Via appia,</i> or High-way to <i>Naples.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Naples</i> was Anciently called <i>Parthenope,</i> from one of the <i>Sirens,</i> Buried in this place, (who as the Fables say) Drowned her self for Grief, that She could not Charm <i>Vlysses</i> and his Companions. Hence <i>Silius lib:</i> 12.</p>

<p> </br> </br> Sirenum dedit una tuum memorab[...] nomen. </br> Parthenope muris Acheloias, aequore cujus </br> Regnavere d[...]l cantus, cum dulce per undas, </br> Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis. </br> It was built Closs upon the Sea, at the foot of most pleasant Hills; First built by the <i>Cumani</i> or Inhabitants of <i>Cuma;</i> who being taken with the sweetness of the Air &amp; Pleasantness of the Place; did daily increase in number; insomuch that the <i>Cumani</i>  that lived at <i>Cuma,</i> took a Resolution utterly to Ruin <i>Parthen[...]pe</i> 162 [...]east their own City should become deso[...]at. But it being Ruined, there came so great a Pestilence upon <i>Cuma,</i> as carried away Multitudes, and having consulted the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality; it was answered that this fate had come upon them for the Ruine of <i>Parthenope;</i>  and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease, they should first restore it, whence with all diligence they went about the Restauration thereof, and called it <i>Neapolis,</i> that is to say the new City. The sweetness of the Air, &amp; delicacy of the Country about is so great, that many Emperours and <i>Roman Senators</i> being wearied with the Wars, and weightiness of Government, did repair to this place, that they might live pleasantly &amp; Peaceably, &amp; give themselves to the Study of Letters; amongst which were <i>Virgil, T. Livius, Horatius, Claudianus [...]</i>  &amp; a great many more: At this very present it is no less frequented by the Nobility and Gentrie of the whole Kingdom, who for the most part have their own Palaces and pass the greatest part of the 163 Year here; so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few Cities in the World more considerable than this. I think it is for this Reason, that it is commonly called <i>Napoli la Gentile:</i> Nor is it to be passed by, that it gives name to a Kingdom; which is not very Ordinary. </p>

<p> The City is big and sumptuously built from the Sea to these pleasant Hills about it. It is very well fortified with strong Walls &amp; Castles, especially since the dayes of <i>Charles</i> V. who built the Castle of St. <i>Elme</i>  and called it <i>la Brilia,</i> that is, Bridle; intending to make it so, to the mutinous Humour of that people, and it may be alluding to the <i>Armes</i> of the City, which is an unbridled Horse; the exact emblem of the disposition of that people, as witness the innumerable Tumults and revolts both of old and late Years made by them. I confess there is no small occasion given them by the severe domination of Strangers over them; and it is strange that having so many brave and valourous Men amongst them, they 164 should more readily agree to submit their necks to the Yoak of a Stranger, than to the sweet Scepter of a Native of their own number and Nation. It is thought the great emulation, (which the <i>Spaniards</i> as wisely, as industriously keep up to the hight) amongst the Princes, who are but too numerous for the extent of the Kingdom, is the great cause of their unhappiness. </p>
<p> You may take notice of these particulars within the Town. <i>1ly.</i> The Churches; of which this City hath a greater number, than any other of its bigness in <i>Europe.</i> Amongst the rest, that of the <i>Annunciata,</i> is so Rich; that the Rent of the Hospitall thereof is capable to entertain, 5000 Poor, part whereof are Children found. St. <i>Chiana,</i> together with the Monastrie of Nuns consisting of 400 with as many servants, is very glorious; It was Built by <i>Agnes</i> of <i>Spain</i> Queen to King <i>Robert.</i> There are many curious Sepulchres to be seen here of Kings, Queens, and their Children. In the Church of St. <i>Dominico</i>  is to be seen 165 the Image of the Crucifix, that said to St. <i>Thomas Aquinas; bene scripsisti do me&#0183; Thoma.</i> In the Church of the <i>Frat[...] di monte Oliueto,</i> the true Pictures of <i>Ferdinand,</i> the first and the second; and <i>Alfonsus</i> the First; both Kings of <i>Naples,</i> are so Admirably well done that they seem to be living. There is likewise Buried here <i>Alexander ab Alexandro,</i>  who composed that learned work <i>Genialium dierum.</i> The Church called the <i>Domo,</i> hath a Chapell composed of Marble, Jasper, Gold and Brass; wherein is keept the Head of St. <i>Gennaro,</i> and a little Phiole of his Blood all together fixed, which being approached to the Head of the St. [...]immediatly begins to boyll, dissolves and becomes clear. The most ancient of all the Churches is that of St. <i>Paul,</i> keept now by the Jesuits; It was formerly the Temple of <i>Castor</i>  and <i>Pollux.</i> </p>

<p> 2. The Religious Houses or Convents; of which there are so great a number, that the <i>Dominicans</i> alone have seventeen. The Chartrous convent stands upon the 166 Hill, a little beneath the Castle St. Elm[...]' It hath the pleasantest Situation that I ever beheld; one may discover from it the whole City and Suburbs of <i>Naples,</i> a great part of the <i>Campania Felice,</i> the <i>monte Vesuvio,</i> all the Bay of <i>Naples,</i> the Island of <i>Capreae,</i> the Hill <i>Posilipo, Puteoli, Baii, Cuma, &amp;c.</i> The Cloister of the convent is all of white Marble, and in short, both the Church and whole Convent are altogether Magnificent. </p>

<p><i>3ly.</i> The Hospitals; which are about twelve in number; amongst which, that of the <i>Annunciata</i> and of the <i>Incueabili</i> are the most considerable. It is said that they Marry 665. Maids every Year, and the least portion they give with any is 24 Ducats, and the greatest 300.</p>

<p> <i>4ly.</i> The Castles; of which there are 4. The Castle <i>d'Ovo</i>  stands within the Sea upon a Rock, built of an Oval Figure by <i>Willam</i> III. a <i>Norman.</i> The Castle <i>Nov[...]</i> was built by <i>Charles</i> the first, Brother to St. <i>Lewes,</i>  but it was <i>Ferdinand</i> of <i>Aragon</i> that fortified it so well. It is of a quadrangular figure, Built of polished 167 Stone as hard as Marble; it hath foure great Bastions, and five Towres, together with strong ramparts, and deep Ditches, which the Sea water filleth: It is ordinarly keept by a Garison of the <i>Spaniards</i> Consisting of 500. There is a great Magazin of all kinds of Armes &amp; Engines for War keept within it. In the middle of it stands the Governours Palace, capable to Lodge a King. It is excellently furnished with Hangings of silk and gold, many excellent Statues and Pictures. Amongst other fine things there is a Cabinet furnished with all sorts of curiosities. The Castle of St. <i>Elm</i> stands upon the top of a Rock, commanding all about it; It's Garison consists of 250. <i>Spainards.</i>  It was built by King <i>Robert</i> the first, Son to <i>Charles</i> II. but afterwards farr better fortified with great Bastions by the Emperour <i>Charles</i> V. who called it <i>La Brillia di Napoli.</i> </p>

<p>
 The Castle <i>Capuano</i> (so called from it's situation which is near to the Port of <i>Capuano</i>) is rather a Palace than a Fortress where the Magistrats of the City, 168 and Officers of justice keep their Assemblies. </p>

<p>5. The Palaces; whereof there are a very great number, amongst which that of the Viceroy; That of the Prince of <i>Salern&#0183;</i> which the Jesuits now possess, are very considerable. The Palace of the Duke of <i>Gravina</i> is most <i>superb.</i> That of the <i>Carafi</i>  is adorned with abundance of excellent statues of Marble and Brass. There be many other worthie to be seen: as also the beautifull Garden of <i>Don Garcia di Toledo,</i> which is full of Grotto's, Fountains, Water works, statues <i>&amp;c.</i></p>

<p>6. The Harbour, or Sea Port; which is fortified with a Superb mole, first made by <i>Charles</i> II. And then very much mended by <i>Alfonsus</i> the first, for the greater security of the Harbour.</p>

<p>7. The Publick Places, the streets, &amp; the avenues of the Town.</p>

<p> 8. The Suburbs; which are seven in number; amongst which the most considerable, is that which leads <i>A la grotio di Posilipo;</i> near to the entry of which <i>Grotto</i> stands <i>la mergelina,</i> looking into 169 the Bay; it was sometimes the House of pleasure of <i>Sanazarius</i> that famous Poet, who gave it to the Religious men called <i>Servi.</i> This Suburb is no less than two miles in length from the City to the <i>Grotto</i> of <i>Po[...]lipo.</i>  The Circuit of the Town and Suburbs is counted to be about six miles: and the Inhabitants to be about 30[...]000. Soules. <i>Statius Papinius</i> and <i>Jacobus Sanazarius;</i> both excellent Poets; together with many other great Virtuosi were borne in this City. </p>

<p> It will be worth the while also to take a view of the Book-sellers Shops, there being many good Books Printed here which hardly or not all can be found with us; as for example, the works of <i>Baptista Porta,</i> whereof the Impressions at <i>Naples</i> were both the first and fairest, and the Cutts for the most part Tailledouce. The works of <i>Fabius Columna,</i> which are almost out of Print, and especially his <i>Phytobasanos.</i> It may likewise happen that there are some new peeces emitted which will never come to our hands 170 for at least, not tell after a great while. It is likely too that You may meet with many other Books, that in other places You had sought in vain for: there are many learned and Curious men in this City, and they are as mortall here as elsewhere, and as ordinary a thing it is to sell their Books. </p>

<p>You will likewise meet with a great many curiosities of all sorts, espccially from the <i>Levant:</i> some naturall; as stones, shells, Animalls, or parts of them, fruits <i>&amp;c.</i> Others artificiall; some of Leather, as Purses, Letter-cases, cups, and a great many things of that kind, usualy brought from <i>Allepo</i> and <i>Constantinople:</i> Some of Silk either alone, or mingled with gold and silver; as Sashes, Girdles, Cravats, Night-Caps, wastcoats, stockings, <i>&amp;c.</i> Outlandish Armes, as Cimetres, Poyniards, Bows and Arrows, with severall sorts of fire Armes. Medalls antient and modern: Intalio'<i>s</i> Chameo'<i>s &amp;c.</i> But in these You must take some heed, that You mistake not the modern for antique.</p>

<p> 171 Having well viewed and considered the City and all things in it. It will be necessary to see those things that are considerable about it. And first the Hill <i>Posilipus,</i> famous for it's Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, for it's Fruits and Wines, especially the <i>greco di Posilipo.</i> But that which is most Admirable in this Hill is the Passage cut quite thro' it. By <i>Cocceius</i> of whom <i>Pontanus</i> saith, <i>Nescio an is fuerit M. Cocceius Nerua Augusti Avus, qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulit{que} m[...]ximam Architecturae Laudem.</i> Howeve[...]  it is certain he must have been a man of great Riches that durst undertake so great a work, at his oun expence. It is called <i>la Grotta di Posilipo,</i> and is very near a mile in length, cutt thro' the Rock. As for the breadth of it, one Coach may pass another with ease. And for the Hight, I believe a man on Horseback will hardly touch the Roof of it with a Lance; At the two ends it is some what higher than in the middle, I think of purpose that the light might enter the farther. When You enter at the one end You 172 will very hardly perceive the light in the other end, but as You advance it begins to appear by little and little. In the Just middle of it, on that side which is next the Sea, there is a little Chapell, where a Lamp is keept continually burning, but it is more out of Devotion than for any light it gives: betwixt the Chapell and the end, as it were about the middle on every side of the Chapell there is a hole cutt thro' the Hill which serveth for a window, but it gives little light. It is exceeding dusty, especeially if there be many Horses Ryding together altho' it be paven with stone, because there comes no Rain to wash it, and none takes pains to make it clean. Those that goe from <i>Naples</i> to <i>Pozzuolo</i> if they hear any Horses Coaches or Carts coming toward them, least they should stop the way, or unawares Justle one another, they use to cry aloud <i>dal mare,</i> which when the others hear, they cry in like manner <i>dal monte</i> and so those that goe from <i>Naples</i> take that side of the <i>Grotto,</i>  which is next the Sea and these that go to it take the side 173 next the Hill; and so avoid all incumbrance. At the mouth of the <i>Grotto,</i> upon the top thereof is the famous Sepulchre of <i>Virgil.</i> There is little remaning of it now except a few Ruins of an old Brick wall in the middle whereof anciently there did stand nine small Pillars, which sustained a Marble U[...], in which were contained the Poets ashes, with this Distich. </br> </br> Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc </br> Parthonope; cecini pascua, rura, duces. </br> </p>

<p>Not far from this Tomb, is the Sepulchre of that famous Poet <i>Sanazarius,</i> in a Place called <i>Mergelina,</i> a <i>Villa</i> given him by King <i>Frederick,</i> where he built a Church in Honour of the BIessed Virgin, and composed that incomparable <i>Poem de partu Virginis.</i> He is Buried within the Church in a Tomb of pure Marble upon which his statue done to the life standeth with this Epitaph by Cardinal <i>[...]embo.</i></p>
 </br> Da Sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni Sineerus, musa proximus, ut tumulo.</br>

<p> 174 There are many other excellent Statues, Base Relieves, and Pictures within this Church well worthie the seeing. </p>
<p>When you go to <i>Pozzuolo,</i> you must take a Guide with you to show you all the considerable Places. It will be a good dayes Journey because You have many Things to see and consider, and therefore you must part early in the Morning from <i>Naples.</i> The first thing you will meet with upon the Way, (but you turne out of the common way) is the <i>Lago di Agnano</i> at the side of which are the Natural stoves of St. <i>German,</i> which are certain little roomes, where the hot and Sulphureous Vapors entering from the Ground quickly provoke sweating, and is commended in severall diseases.</p>

<p> At a little distance from thence, upon the side of the Lake is the <i>Grotto de I Cani.</i> It is a little hole dug out of the side of a Brae where two or three Persons scarcely can stand. The Floore of it is ordinarily wet and dirtie, out of which there riseth a Poisonous Vapour, 175 in form of Smoak, but it ascendeth not above a Foot from the Ground. They use to trie it with Torches and Dogs, which you must carrie from <i>Naples</i> with you, for you will not find them upon the Place. As for the Torches, the guide lights two, and then reaches one of them to the Smoak, which instantly extinguishes, as if it were blown out by the force of Powder: Then he lights it at the other, and so renews the experiment as oft as you please, keeping always one lighted, untill your Curiositie be satisfied; as for the Dogs he holds their Nose into the Vapour, and instantly they begin to fetch their Breath thick, and in a very little space are quite suffocated. If ye let them ly long, they will never recover, but if ye take them immediately when they are fallen down and throw them into the Lake, they will by little and little returne to live again. I guesse this Vapour to be so much like the Damps, that are sometimes found in our Coal-pitts, only, with us, they are soon dissipated, but here this lasteth 176 continuallie, and (which is yet more strange) in an open Air; but it may be the openness of the Air is the Reason why the Vapour ascendeth no higher. I remember one of our Dogs did recover without being thrown into the Lake, which makes me believe, that it is not any peculiar Vertue in the water (as is commonly said) that restoreth them to life, but only the freedom of the Air, with the help whereof Nature reinforceth it self, the life being yet not quite extinct, which is cleared by this, that if they lye any considerable time in the cave, neither Air nor water will recover them. It is very True that, That which was thrown in the Lake recovered much sooner, and better: whereas the other remained paralytick, and impotent to move his hinder quarters: (tho' he could Sit upon his foremost Leggs and bark&#0183;) for almost two houres thereafter. It seems there is something in this Vapour or Damp that coagulats or fixes the Spirits, that they cannot move or circulat in the Body. </p>

<p> 177 From hence you take the Way to <i>Pazzuolo,</i> near to which you will meet with a Place called <i>la Solfatara,</i> it is a large plaine, Oval in Figure, representing a Theatre, it is above 1200 Foot in length and 1000 in breadth, it is compassed about with white &amp; high Hills, from which in many Places, arise Clouds of smoak, of a Sulphureous smell, rolling up into the Air impetuously, with great crackling. Some of these spiracles are very small, so that it is a Pleasure, to see the Smoake ascend, by a direct line of the bigness of cane, and sometimes smaller by much. About these spiracles you will see Quantitie of the Flowres of Brimstone sublimed; but I suspect the internal use of them, because of the mixture of other minerals wherewith they may be infected: But for external uses, I am not so doubtfull, as also of the Spirit which by the help of convenient Glasses might be gathered in aboundance from these spiracles. When you consider the plaine you will wonder to hear it sound under your Horse-feet, as you were Riding over a large Floore, which is caused 178 by the Vacuitie underneath. All the Hills about abound in veines of Allum whereof some is scissile; nitre, Sulphur, Vitriol &amp; Salt Armoniac. The Vitriol is of a Delicat blew Colour and much finer than that which is commonly called <i>Roman-Vitriol.</i>  It will be worth your while to take particular notice of these minerals, how they are extracted out of their mines, what differences there are of every Species, how they are mixed with one another sometimes, by what Art they are purified, and with what Instruments, and to what use they are put. I would have you take a Parcel of every sort and bring along with you, which you may box up at <i>Naples</i> with Cotton, and send before you to <i>Rome.</i> </p>

<p> Having done these things, you come to <i>Pozzuolo;</i> in Latine <i>Puteoli.</i> The City is now much Ruined; but was Stately and Rich of Old. <i>Cicero</i>  writing to <i>Atticus</i> saith <i>quid potui non videre cum per Emporeum puteolanum iter facerem;</i> which is Chieflly to be understood of that part of the Town, which stood upon the 179 Shoare where the Arti[...]ans, and chiefly the Goldsmiths, had their Shops, whereof there remaines little now except the Ruins, and Vestiges: And yet beneath the Church <i>di Giesu Maria,</i> possessed by the Dominicans, when the Wind dryves out the Sea, they do find sometimes severall Precious Stones, some cutt, some uncutt; and if you be Curious to enquire you will find People that make a Trade to sell such things amongst other Anticails. I remember there came severall of these Persons to our Lodging-House, with Medals, <i>Intaglio's, Lucerne Antiche</i> &amp;c. But I found many of them to be cheats, and but moderne, brought thither from <i>Naples</i> and other Places, of purpose to cheat Strangers, who are ordinarly
 more Curious than knowing of these things; As for Medals, were they never so Ancient, they are little worth unless they be well preserved, and the Characters and impressions easie to be discerned. And for Intaglio's unless the Figure be good&#0183; and well done, and the Stone entire and unbroken, they are not 180 worth much. The great Church now dedicated to St. <i>Proclus</i> was anciently dedicated to <i>Octavianus Augustus.</i> It is a Sumptuous Fabrick of great square Marble Stones; serving for the whole thickness of the Wall, with great and high <i>Corinthian</i> Pillar's, and other Excellent Ornaments of Architecture. </p>

<p> Here are also be seen many Ruins of great antiquitie, amongst which she Gardens of <i>Cicero</i> famous for his Academy, where he wrote his <i>Quaestiones Academicae.</i>  But this City, in diverse ages has suffered so much by the tumults of Wars, as also by the eruptions of fire and earthquakes, that it is wonderfull there should yet remain any vestiges of Antiquitie. The Soil about it is most fertile and fruitfull, and nature produceth here many Plants of it's oun accord, which in other places are kept in Gardens, not without care: among others I remember to have seen the <i>Ricinus</i> or <i>Palma Christi</i> not only growing wild but out-living that Winter, and continuing fresh green and strong in the month of <i>March;</i> altho' 181 it be an <i>Annual</i> Plant with us, that can hardly be raised upon a hot bed. </p>

<p>
 You may have your Horse at <i>Pozzuolo,</i> and hyre a boat to cross the Bay for seeing of the following things, And 1. hard by the City the remains of that <i>Superb mole,</i> which having been ruined by storme was afterwards Restored by the Emperour <i>Antoninus:</i> But at present all that Remains is 12. or 13. great Pillars built of Brick and stones of vast bigness. They appear so many towrs, over which there are yet remaining, but half Ruined, some Arches. This fashion of Moles seem to be the best, because the Pillars and Arches are sufficient to break the water and secure the Ships within, and by letting part of the water enter betwixt the Pillars lessens it's violence, so that the Pillars suffer not half so much, as if they were one continued wall. The Emperour <i>Caligulae</i> built a bridge of boats from <i>Pozzuolo to Baii</i> upon which he went in Triumph first on Horsback and then in Chariot, but it was of small continuance and served only to be the subject of discourse in 182 future ages. Having passed these Pillars. Yov put ashore hard by the <i>Lacus Lucrinus</i> which as some said was so called <i>a Lucro</i> from the profit which it yeilded to the <i>Romans</i>  by the great abundance of excellent Fish especialie <i>Oysters,</i> which were esteemed before any other in <i>Italy:</i> Whence <i>Martial</i> to express the Gluttony of a certain Person. </p>

<p>Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino.</p>

<p>
 But there is little water in it now, it being almost dryed up by that most Terrible eruption of the <i>Solfatara</i> which happned in the Year 1538. the 29. of <i>September</i> two hours after Sun set, the whole countrey about having been troubled for two Years before with Earthquakes: At which time there burst out in one night so great a quantitie of fire, Stones, Pumecks, and ashes, that near to the <i>monte Barbaro</i> formerly called <i>mons Gaurus</i> it made another Hill, near three miles in compass, and almost as high as the <i>monte Barbaro.</i>  The south part of it looks to the Sea, the north reaches to the <i>Lacus Avernus,</i> &amp; on the East it is 183 joined with the foot of <i>Monte Barbaro.</i> It is called <i>monte Nuovo.</i> These ashes did not only make this Hill, but covered likewise a great part of the Country about, Killing both beasts and Trees, and ruining the Vintage for that Year. The Sea in the mean time retired above 200 paces, leaving abundance of Fish upon the dry sands, and many Wells of fresh Water, which sprung here and there. </p>

<p> 2. The <i>Lacus Avernus</i> is about half a miles distance from the <i>Lago lucrino.</i> It is compassd about with small Hills which they say were formerly covered with Trees, that did over shaddow the water, and make it look black, and likewise did hinder the Sulphureous Vapours that did arise from the water to dissipat, so that the Air being infected with these vapours became so noysome especially to Fowls, that they could not live in it, and hence came the Name <i>Avernus.</i> At present there is little or no Wood about it, nor is the Air any thing more noysome there, than in other places about, and I have seen Fowles 184 haunting about it and swimming in it. It is said to be very deep &amp; for that reason without Fish but I am not certain hereof. </p>

<p> 3. Upon the west side of the Lake, cutt into the Hill is the <i>Antrum Sybillae</i> commonly called <i>Grotta della Sybilla,</i> but not truly, for the true Cave of <i>Sybill[...]</i> is at <i>C[...]a.</i>  This seems rather to have been a common passage from <i>Avernus</i> to <i>P[...]ia,</i> but is now stopt at the one end by the falling down of the Hill above. The passage is large and High, but altogether dark, and therefore You must be guided by Torch light. When You are got a good way in, upon the one side there is a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in length, that leads into a handsome large Chamber, which altho' it be now much ruined, appears to have been Richly adorned, the Roof of it being Painted with Gold and Blew, and the Walls with curious figures of divers colours and the Pavement consisting of many small peeces like unto <i>Mosaick.</i> It is a vulgar errour that this was <i>Sybilla</i>'s Chamber, and 185 that the Temple of <i>Apollo,</i> where she received her Responses, was hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake; But it is not so, for the Ruins of that Place appeare not to have been any Temple at all, But rather a Superb Bathing House, such as that of <i>Baia,</i> for it has the same order of Windows, &amp; Spiracles for conducting of the Vapours. But to returne to the <i>Grotto,</i> upon the left hand, as You enter into this Chamber, there is another Passage, some what higher and larger than the first, about 40. foot in length cut out into the Hill, which leads into another Chamber, from which there is a narrow passage, which leads into another Chamber, and severall other little passages and Roomes which <i>I</i> doe not distinctly remember, only this much that in one of them, there is as it were a little Pool of Warm Water. In this Room the heat is so great, that it is impossible to continue any time in it without excessive Sweating, which makes me to believe, that these Rooms were intended for no other use than Bathing and Sweating. </p>

<p> 186 4. The Remains or Ruins; and first <i>Bagno di Cicerone. 2ly. Bagno di Tritoli; quasi Frittoli, q[...]od Corpora ibi fricrentur,</i> The Entrie to it is large and high. Towards the ground it is cold, but if you stand upright You must needs Sweat for Heat, and the farther one goes in, the greater the Heat is. At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark, and even where the Sea covers it, the Sand is so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull of it. </p>

<p> 5. <i>Baia;</i> So called from <i>Baius,</i> the Companion of <i>Vlysses,</i>  who was Buried there. It was a most delicat City, but now altogither Ruined, and in the place of it there is a Castle lately Built with a a Garison of 30. Souldiers for Securing the Port, which is verie safe for Gallies, but not deep enough for Ships. The whole Bay, or <i>Sinus</i> of <i>Baia,</i> is exceedingly Pleasant; all that Tract betwixt <i>Avernus</i> and the <i>Mons Misenus</i> being full of the Remains of great and Noble structures. Many of the <i>Roman</i> Emperours took great pleasure in this place, &amp; and spared no cost for the beautifying of 167 it. <i>Horace,</i> who was no ill Judge, gives this Testimony of it, </br> Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis.</br> 
 </p>

<p> As You go forward from <i>Baia,</i> You will still be finding something worthie the Remarking; as, 1. The House of <i>Agrippina, Nero</i>'s Mother, who was put to Death here by her Sons Command. It is commonly said to be her Sepulchre, but it is not true. There is yet to be seen the Plaister of the Roof and walls in severall Curious figures, but they are much defaced by the smoak of the Torches which strangers from all parts so frequently carry down with them. 2. That delicat Pleasant Field called the <i>Eligium,</i> so much renowned by <i>Virgil</i> in the <i>6th.</i> Book of the <i>Aeneids.</i> All the Noble Persons that lived here abouts, or did otherwise attend upon the Court, which did often happen to be here, likewise those that for their Health's sake came to the Bath's, used to walk in this place for their 188 Recreation and Converse. I am easily inclined to believe that considering it's Situation, Prospect, and the Order that it was keept in, when so many great Persons frequented it, It could not chuse but have been the most delicious Place in the whole World, and no wonder that it Prompted <i>Virgil</i> to Borrow both it's name and his Conceit in expressing and describing the Place of the Blessed Soules Departed. I saw it in the begining of the Moneth of <i>March,</i> and then the Heat was considerable, and the Place not only green but covered with <i>Anemonies</i>  and other Flowers. Hard by this, is the <i>Piscina Miraebilis:</i> it is a Cistern for keeping of fresh Water, of a vast Bigness, the Roof whereof is supported by 48. great Pillars on everie side. The whole inside of it is Crusted over with a kind of Plaster as hard as Marble, which whither it was so made by Art, or by the Continuance of the Water in it, I know not, but I think it probable that both have contributed to it. <i>Boccace</i> in his Book of Rivers, believs 189 it to have been built by <i>Agrippa,</i> for preserving of fresh Water, for the Commodity of the Navie which used to stay at <i>Misenum.</i> The Water was brought to it by aquedu[...]ts from <i>Serino.</i> 3. <i>Mons Misenus</i> or the <i>Promontorium Misenum,</i> so called from <i>Misenus, Aeneas</i>'s Trumpeter, who was Buried here. It is of a Reasonable Hight, and without doubt the prospect from it is Noble; but I did not ascend it, by reason of the Company that would not stay for me. </p>

<p>4. The <i>Centum Cellae;</i> which are a continued Fabrick built of Brick with great Art under ground, it seems they have been Cisterns for Conserving of Water. In short, all this peece of ground is full of ancient Ruins, and it is not easie to Guesse, what every one of them in Particular hath been.</p>

<p> Having vieued all these things, you either go straight to <i>Cuma,</i> or else you leave it for another Day, and so returne to <i>Pozzulo,</i> by the same Boat that waited upon you from it, and so returne by Horse, by the lower but plainer and 190 more pleasant Way, to <i>Naples,</i> from from whence the next Day you may go to <i>Cuma,</i> in Latine <i>Cumae;</i> a City built upon the Top of a Hill six Miles from <i>Naples;</i> upon the highest Top of this Hill stood the Temple of <i>Apollo</i> built by <i>Dedalus,</i> when he fled from the wrath of King <i>Minos.</i> It was in this Temple that <i>Sybilla Cumea</i>  did pronounce the Oracles of <i>Apollo.</i> Hence that of <i>Virgil,</i> </br> </br> At pius Aeneas arces quibus altus Apollo </br> Praesidet, horrendae{que} procul secreta Sybillae. </br> </p>

<p>
 As you descend from <i>Cuma</i> upon that side that looks to the East, is to be seen the Frontis-peece of the true <i>Grotta</i> of <i>Sybilla,</i> which was cut out of the solid Rock, which <i>Virgil</i> describeth, </br> Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum.</br> 
 </p>

<p>There are many other Ancient Ruins worthie the taking notice of, which you may have leasure enough to observe, and have time enough to returne to <i>Naples</i> at Night.</p>

<p> 191 The next Day you may take Horse again and a Guide with you from the Town, to see the burning Hill, about 8 Miles distant from the Town; It is called in Latine <i>Vesuvius,</i> and in Italian <i>Monte di soma,</i> from the great Plentie of all things wherewith it aboundeth. the Hill it self is of a very Large Compass, and about the middle divided in two Tops, of which one is much abated of its length by the burning. Before the first eruption of the Fire, it was much higher than the other, but now it is by much the lower. It is not easily accessible both in regard of its steepness, and the great Quantitie of Ashes that cover it every where, by Reason whereof, the ascent becomes slippery and uncertain. In the ascending, you may take nottice of many several Channels, some larger and deeper, some narrower and shallower made by the Torrents of burning Sulphur and other Mineral Substances, which Boyled out at the Top in the last great eruption it made, which torrents were carried several 192 Miles into the Gulf or bay of <i>Naples</i>  without being quenched, and killed the Fishes in the middle of the deep. You may likeways take notice of the various Mineral Substances, &amp; Stones burn'd to <i>Pumick,</i> which are scattered over the whole Hill. When you come at the Top you will see the great Gulf made by the several eruptions, which is suposed to be six Miles in compasse about the Brimmes, so that it makes a very large plain Field at the Bottom, that in deepness from the brimm is not above a hundred Yards, it is all covered with Ashes, and nothing green in it, except it be some few Tufts, of I cannot tell what, not being able to Judge of them at that distance. The descent to the Bottom at some places seems to be easie enough, but we could find none so hardie as to venture to show us the way, altho' some of our Guides had undertaken it before, and to speak truth, it is no great discretion to venture so far down upon a Ground, which probably is not able to support one, being nothing in appearance but a 193 Field of Ashes of uncertain deepthness. You will see in a Hundred diverse Places, Spiracles, some greater, some smaller, out of which the Smoak rises impetuously, as it were shott out of a Gun, and with a continual Crackling, like that of Thunder at a distance, or the quenching of Fire. When you have satisfied your Curiositie of seeing all, you must return the same Day, and take your Horse where you left him, about the middle of the Hill; and so returne to <i>Naples.</i> It is usuall for Strangers to light at a Village about midway to the City, to Taste of these excellent Wines, that grow upon the fertile places of the Hill, and particularly of <i>Lachryma Christi,</i> otherways called <i>Lagrima di Soma,</i> which is a gross bodied Red Wine, strong and sweet to the taste, and very pleasant. </p>

<p>In the suburbs of the Town, as you return, you may see the Kings Stables, where the choisest Horses of the Kingdom are menaged and keept for the Kings use.</p>

<p> Thus having vieued all in &amp; about <i>Naples,</i> it will be time to order your return 194 for <i>Rome,</i> by the same way you came, nor do I remember any other thing needfull to be observed or advised, except that you must l[...]t[...]  your Baggage [...]e vieued at the Gate&#0183; as you go out, and take a Pass from the Customers; or which you will pay some small thing. You will likeways do well to rid your self of all Spanish Monie (gold excepted) unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your expenses to <i>Fu[...]die,</i> because it will not pass in any place of <i>Italy,</i> except such as are under the <i>Spanish Dominion.</i>  </p>

<p> If the Season of the Year be good, there is excellent Her[...]rising upon this [...]oade to <i>Naples.</i> You will find Wild in the Fields, many sorts of <i>Narcissus</i>'s, many Colours of single <i>Anemone</i>'s, <i>Squills: As[...]h[...]delus albus ma[...]or; Tithymalus Dendroides.</i>  It is a Plant I never saw, except upon the way from <i>Pipern[...]</i> [...] <i>T[...]rrachina,</i> about mid way upon a Hill side, where it groweth in great aboundance. It is a stately tall Plant, [...]  reading it self into severall Branches, some whereof I observed to be as big as a 195 Mans Wrist. It had few or no leaves on it in the Season when I saw it, which was <i>March,</i> but aboundance of Yellow Flowers at the Top's of the Branches: The <i>Ficus indica lati-folia,</i> is a Beastly weed in the same Place, and spoiles all the Ground; every leafe that falls springing up into a new Plant, which at last becometh hard and woodie. <i>Tuchr[...]um lusit anicum arborescens,</i> of which I saw some goodly tufts near to <i>Terachina.</i> There be many other, which for brevities sake I omit to mention, and likeways a great many that I have forgot, having lost those notes I made of their names and places; but I hope you will supply this defect, being your self much more able to do it. </p>

<p> Being returned to <i>Rome,</i> which I shall suppose to be about the middle or end of <i>April:</i> It will be fitt for you to think of the next Voyage towards <i>Loretto,</i> unless you resolve to pass the Summer at <i>Rome,</i> for after the <i>20th.</i> of <i>May,</i>  untill the latter <i>Rains</i> fall (which is commonly about the middle of <i>September,</i> or 196 the beginning of <i>October,</i> the extream heat makes Travel very unseasonable. But if in the case of necessity, such as Pestilence, or War, you should be forced to undertake the Journey, you must order it so as to Travel most in the Night, and Rest in the heat of the Day, and be sure not to Sleep till you have passed the <i>Campania</i> of <i>Rome,</i> as I have formerly marked. </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>The Way to Loretto from Rome.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i> 

<l>Miles.</l> <i>Prima porta </i> 

<l>7</l> <i>Castel Novo </i>  

<l>8</l> <i>Rignano </i> 

<l>7</l> <i>Civita </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>O[...]ricoli </i>  

<l>8</l> <i>Nar[...]i </i> 

<l> [...] </l> <i>Terni</i>  

<l> [...] </l> <i>Strettur[...] </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>Spolet[...]  </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>Passo di Spel[...]to </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>Verchi[...]no B[...]rg[...]  </i> 

<l>9</l> <i> 197 Pi[...] di dignano </i> 

<l> [...]  </l> <i>Mucc[...]a Castello </i> 

<l>7</l> <i>Valcimara </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>To[...]entino </i>  

<l>9</l> <i>Macerata </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Loretto </i> 

<l>6</l> </UL>

<p> I have not much to say of the particular places upon this Road, only <i>Tern[...]</i> is an Ancient City and pleasantly situated; the River <i>Negra,</i> in Latine <i>Nar</i> being divided in many Branches, and drawn through the Town, are as it were so many little Rivers, whence also the Town in Latine is called <i>Interamna:</i> the Meadowes &amp; Fields about it, are exceedingly fertile, in so much that the meadowes are mowen three or four times a Year; and they talk that Turneps are often found there of five or six &amp;
 thirtie weight, of which seaven or eight will load an Ass; it is also renowned for Pidgeons, which are thought the biggest &amp; most savoury in <i>Italy.</i> If you can take the leisure to stay here any time, it will be worth your 198 while to see the <i>Lago di piedi luco,</i> in Latine <i>Lacus velinus</i> (not far from <i>Terni</i>) which is said to be the middle of all <i>Italy,</i>  that which is most considerable in it, is the <i>Issue</i> of the Waters from it, which was cut by a <i>Roman Consul</i> through a Rock, whence it Rushes out, and falls over so great a hight of Rocks, that it makes a noise which may be heard at ten Miles distance, and makes a greater <i>cascata</i> then that of <i>Tivoli.</i> From <i>Verchian[...]</i>  you have the <i>Appennine</i> to pass, which is that ridg of Hills that divides all <i>Italy</i> by the length. </p>

<p>From <i>Valcimara,</i> the way is exceeding good to <i>Loretto.</i></p>

<p>
 <i>Loretto</i> it self is a little Town not very Ancient, built upon the Top of a Hill, not above 3 or 4 Miles from the <i>Adriatick</i> Sea, it is fortified reasonably well: the most considerable thing in it, is the Church, in the Quire whereof stands the <i>Casa S[...]ncta,</i> brought thither from <i>Judeae</i> Miraculously by <i>Angels,</i>  as is beleeved. This is the House in which the blessed Virgin is said to have been Born. The 199 out-side of it is walled about with Marble cut into excellent Figures, but yet so as the Walls touch not the Holy House. The inside hath continually Lamps burning in it, some of Gold, some of Silver. There is in it a Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin, which they say were painted by St. <i>Luke.</i> The Image of the Virgin, which stands upon the Altar, hath a Garment upon it all covered with Pearles, &amp; upon the Head a Crown of Gold, enriched with Jewells; upon the Top whereof there is a Carbuncle of the bigness of an Egg. There is likeways shown within the House a little Dish, out of which our Saviour is said to have Eat his Meat whilst he was yet a Babe. People commonly bring their Beads, Medals, &amp; other peeces of Devotion to be put in this Dish, &amp; to touch the other relicts. The <i>Sacristia</i> is well worthy the seeing because of the Jewels, and other Rich presents and Ornaments belonging to the House, which are keept there, and have been given and offered continualy, by allmost all Princes and great Persons in 200 Christendom. The Cellar is likeways worthie the seeing, being exceedingly Large and full of Wines. Amongst others they ordinarly shew one great Tun out of which they draw 3 or 4 sorts of Wine, some red, some white. The number of Pilgrims, and other Persons, that out of Devotion resort to this Place, from all the parts of Christendom, is allmost infinit, insomuch that every Day appears to be a holy Day and the whole Year but one continued Feast. So soon as the Gates are opened in the morning, they begin to enter as it were in Procession. I believe there are but few Inhabitants in the Town, except a few Trades-men of all sorts, for the Accommodation of Strangers, the greatest part are Merchants, that sell nothing but Beads and peeces of Devotion, such as Medals of Silver, Gold, Brass, Christal &amp;c. Books of Devotion, and such like. There is good Accommodation in the Town, at a reasonable Rate. The City is Commanded by a Governour, who hath his Palace near to the Church. 201 We were Recommended to him by Cardinal <i>Charles Barbarini,</i> and were treated by him with great Civilitie; his Secretary being commanded to wait upon us, and show us all that was considerable in the place. </p>

<p>After two days stay here we dismissed our Horses that we brought from <i>Rome,</i> and Hyred new ones from <i>Loretto</i> to <i>Bolognia.</i></p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Loretto to Bolognia.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i>  

<l>Miles</l> <i>Ancona </i> 

<l>15</l> <i>La casa Brugiata </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Cenigalia </i>  

<l>9</l> <i>Fano </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Pesaro </i> 

<l>6</l> <i>Rimini </i>  

<l>20</l> <i>Sanigniana Castello </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Cesena </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Furli </i>  

<l>10</l> <i>Faenza </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Imola </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>St. Nicola Castello </i>  

<l>10</l> <i>Bolognia </i> 

<l>10</l> </UL>

<p> 202 <i>Ancona</i> is about half a days Journey from <i>Loretto.</i> It is a verie ancient City and the best Sea Port in <i>Italy,</i> at least upon the <i>Adriatick</i>  Coast: The Port was Built, at least Restored and Beautified, by <i>Trajan</i> the Emperour, in whose Honour a most stately Triumphal Arch was Raised upon it, which it yet extant, with this Inscription in Capital Letters. <i>Imp. Caes. di[...]i Nervae F. Nervae Trajano optimo August.</i> Germanic. <i>Daetico. Pontef. max. Tr. Pot. xix. Imp. xi. Cos. vii. P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R. Quod adcessum Italiae, Hoc etiam addito ex pecunia sua Portum tutiorem Navigantibus reddiderit.</i> And upon the Right side thereof You may Read this Inscription <i>Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug.</i> And upon the left, <i>Divae Marcian: Aug: sorori August.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Cenigalia</i> is a little Town having a Sea-Port&#0183; It seems from the name to have been built, and to have belonged to the <i>Galli Cenones.</i></p>

<p> <i>Fano,</i> Antiently <i>Fanum;</i> because of the Temple of Fortune that stood here; There 203 is a stately Triumphall Arch of Marble 30, Cubits High. <i>Pesaro</i> is a very Pleasant and handsome City having many fine Houses and a Magnificent Palace, It is well Peopled and well Fortified. The Duke of <i>Vrbin,</i> to whom this City did belong, used to pass one half of the Year here; But since his Death without Heirs Male the whole Dutchie is Reunited to the <i>Ecclesiastick</i>  state. </p>

<p> <i>Rimini,</i> in Latine <i>Ariminum;</i> is like to be so called from the River <i>Arimine</i> that passes by it. There are severall fair Palaces in it, built by the <i>Mala-testi</i> antient Lords of the Place. There is a Triumphal Arch erected in Honour of <i>Augustus,</i> yet extant, and the Ruines of a great Theatre. But the most considerable thing of all is the Bridge, Built of great square Marble stones, of twentie foot in length and 15. in breadth, with five Arches. The Bridge Joynes the <i>Via Flaminia</i> and the <i>Via Emilia</i>  together. It is said to have been Built by <i>Tiberius Caesar.</i> In the Mercat place there is to be seen the stone upon which <i>Julius Caesar</i> stood, and encouraged 204 his Officers, when he began the Civil War. This Stone hath this Inscription <i>C. Caesar D. Rubicone superato, civili Bello, Comilitones suos hic in for[...] Ariminensi adlocutus.</i> </p>

<p>Within a Mile of <i>Cesina,</i> or there abouts, You must pass the <i>Rubicon,</i> which seems to be but a Torrent, and in the Summer time for the most part dry; At the place where You pass there is yet extant an ancient Pillar, the Inscription whereof hath made the name of <i>Rubicon</i> so famous. it is as follows; <i>Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos. Imp. Myli Tyro Comilito manipulariaeve Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae armat quis quis est hic sistito. Vexillum sinito, ne citra hunc amnem Rubiconem signa, Arma, ductum, commeatum, Exercitum{que} traducito; siquis hujusce Jussionis ergo adversum ierit, feceritve, adjudicatus esto hostis</i> P: R. <i>ac si contra Patriam armaverit, Sacros{que} Penatos e penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus.</i></p>
 </br> 
 205 <i>NE</i> Consulto ultra hos fines Armae proferre liceat nemini. </br> </br> S. P. Q. R.</br>

<p><i>And upon the other side of the Pillar, the following Inscription;</i> Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator, Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu, &amp; adagio, Jactae alcae, Celebratum.</p>

<p>Flumini huic stabilem imponere trajectum, Ethnica diu vetuit pavida Superstitio, Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio.</p>
 </br> </br> Innocent: X<SUP>o</SUP> Summo Pont: </br> Card: D: Legato 1654. </br>

<p><i>Furli;</i> in Latine <i>Forum Livii,</i> where there is litle thing considerable except the Market Place.</p>

<p><i>Faenza;</i> is divided in two by the River <i>Lamone,</i> over which stands a goodly Bridge that Joynes the two parts of the Town together, it is called in Latine <i>Faventia,</i> and the People <i>Faventini.</i></p>

<p> 206 The whole way from <i>Ancona</i> to <i>Bolognia</i>  is Plain and Smooth, and the Countrey on all sides very Rich and Fertile, but especially near to <i>Bolognia,</i> (which deservedly is called <i>la Crassa</i>) where the whole Countrey, on everie s[...]de of the high way, looks like Gardens, being Hedged and closed in on all sides, and Planted with <i>Olive</i> and while <i>Mulberry</i> Trees, the Leaves whereof [...]erve to the [...]eeding of Silk Wormes, and at the Roots of which the Vines being Planted, run up and spread themselves thorow all the Branches of the Trees, and load them with Grapes. The distance betwixt the Ranges of Trees is Sowen sometimes with Wheat, or other usefull Grain, or Kitchin Herbs and Roots, Nor is there wanting here abundance of the Choisest Fruits that <i>Italy</i> affoords. </p>

<p> <i>Bolognia;</i> is the second Town of the Ecclesiastick State, sweetly situated in a large Plain, near to some Hills at the one side. The City is near two Miles in length and one in breadth, and about 5 Miles in Compass. The Inhabitants are 207 not esteemed to be under 80 Thousand in number, amongst which it is thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen, whereof many have the Titles of Count and Marques. There is a famous University &amp; many fine Colledges worthie to be seen: As also many fine Churches &amp; Religious Houses. The Archdean of the Cathedral of St. <i>Peters,</i> has the Priviledge of making Doctors, above others. In the Church of <i>Corpus Christi,</i> may be seen the intire Body of St. <i>Katharine</i> of <i>Vigri,</i> a Religious Woman of the Order of St. <i>Clare,</i> that Died at <i>Bolognia,</i> in the Year 1463. She sits in a Chair, with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face seems to be bent and streacht, her Eyes open, her Hands and Feet bare: In one Hand She holds a Crucifix, the other is placed upon a Pillow. They use in the presence of a great deal of Companie to paire her Nails every Month, and to cut her Hair once a Year, after they are grown. In the <i>Iacobins</i>  Church is keept the Head of St. <i>Dominick</i> in a Rich Tabernacle, and his Body in a Curious 208 Tomb of white Marble cut in severall figures of <i>Base relieve;</i> In the <i>Choire</i> may be seen the Histories of the New and Old Testament, with wonderfull Artifice represented in mosaick of of Wood. There is also to be seen here, a rare Peece of Painting, of the Innocents made by <i>Guido Reni;</i> all the parts of this Convent are worthie the taking notice of, the Cloisters, the <i>Dormitories</i>  of above 150 Religious, the Refictory Painted by great Masters, the Apothecaries Shop, and the Bibliotheck, and the Cellar which is extraordinarly Big. </p>
<p> There be many fine Palaces worthie the seeing, and very well Ornamented within, but especially the <i>Popes</i> own Palace, where the Legat resides, and in it you must take particular care to see <i>Aldrovandi's</i> Studie, and Collection of Curiosities, which are keept in this Palace, and commonly intrusted to the Legats Physitian. There is likeways to be seen in the Back Court <i>Aldrovandi's</i> Garden, in which there are some Curious Plants. In the Study you will see a great Herball, 209 in water Colours, but without any description, as also a whole press full of Manuscripts, written all with his own Hand. </p>

<p> There are severall Towres in the Town, but especially that of <i>Degli Pisanelli,</i> which is one of the highest I remember to have ever seen; it stands about the middle of the Town, and near by it there is an other which is not finished, and the reason they give for it is very apparent, that the Builders mistook the perpendicular; when one stands near to it, it is so very crooked that it appears to be just a falling. I had the Curiositie to go as high in the other Towre as I could, and rather because I thought I might more easily discover the situation of the Town, it's avenues, and the Country about, but I had much Reason to repent me: The ladders for the most part being old and rotten, so that I was in continuall apprehension of falling, and one slip would have done my turne as well as a hundred. I shall advise you rather to take the paines to see a Convent, 210 a little without the Town, toward the Hills, called St. <i>Michaele in Bosco,</i> from whence you will have a most Delicate Prospect of the Town and Country about. The Town appears in the form of a Ship, and the Towre <i>Deglipisanelli,</i> may be the maine Mast of it. This Convent is one of the most Glorious in <i>Italy;</i> the Religious are of the Order <i>di Monte Olivetto,</i> there are many other things in the Town worthie the taking notice of, which for brevities sake I omit. </p>

<p>You must not forget to see the Silk-Work, which is a most Curious contrivance; it is three or four Storie high, in the Highest Storie there are Innumerable Pirns of Silk, which are all moved by the generall Motion that the Water gives to some Wheeles below, &amp; there they receive the first Twist; in the Storie next to that, they receive the second; &amp; in the lowermost Storie the last: which brings it to that form of raw Silk that we commonly see sold.</p>

<p> This Place above all others in <i>Italy,</i> 211 or in the World, is famous for excellent Soap-Balls, of which you will do well to provide your self abundantly; they will keep in their perfection above 20 Years: You may have them of severall Sizes, bigger or lesser as you please. It is likeways famous for Sassadges, which are the best cetainly in tke World: I have seen of them of 5 Crownes the Peece. </p>

<p>
 There is good Herbarising towards the Hills, if your leisure can permit you; you may take a Guide along with you. Upon these Hills, you will likeways find that famous Stone called <i>Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis,</i> of which <i>Fortunatus Lic[...]t[...]s</i> hath written a particular Book. It is very hard and Flintie like, but more glistering; when it is calcined 48 hours in a reverberatory Fire &amp; then set to cooll: If you expose it a little to the light and free Air, and on the sudden bring it to the dark, it shines for a little while as if it were a Red burning Coale, but there is a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that growes upon 212 the Top of it, whilst it is a Calcineing, which is most effectuall for the shining, and which if it by lost by any Accident, the rest will not be much worth, and for saving of this they use ordinarly to fix the Stone in Wax in the bottom of a Box, &amp; so sell them to Strangers, but this way does not secure them, to my certain Experience. The best way is to bring the Stone uncalcined and prepare it at home. I would have you to see an Apothecarie, who is a great Virtuoso especiallie in Plants. He is called <i>Jacomo Zanoni speciale da san Biaggio custode de simplici in Bolognia;</i> I believe he has Published something of Plants by this time, for he shewed me a Number of Brass cutts, which were allreadie Graven, and told me the intention he had as soon as he could get the rest perfected, to cause print them. If they may be had, I intreat you to procure me one of them; you will do well to see his Garden, which is very Curious. And the best way to ingage all such Men as he is, is to have allways a Parcell of rare 213 Seeds with you, and to give them some, by which means you will find them readie to give you whatever they can spare, in like manner. </p>

<p>I shall advise you to Visit the Booksellers Shops, concerning which I must give you this generall advice, for finding out <i>Botanick</i> Books, that you take paines to look them all over your self; for many times the Book-sellers do not know their names. You will find here <i>Panacea ex herbis quae a Sanctis denominantur</i> Item <i>Historia &amp; Icones Capsicorum Bartholomaei Ambrosini in</i> 80. <i>Bononiae</i> 1630. also <i>Hyacinthi Ambrosini hortus Studiosorum &amp; Novarum Plantarum hactenus non S[...]ulptarum Historia</i> in 40. <i>Bononiae</i> 1657. But above all I must intreat you to buy me <i>Aldrovandus</i>'s works, which ate 13 or 14 Tomes in <i>Folio;</i> you may buy them in Sheets, and have them packt up in your own things for <i>Venice,</i> where you will not fail to meet with frequent Occasions of sending them for <i>London.</i> I believe they will not cost above 18 or 20 Crowns. and if they do I shall be readie to allow it.</p>

<p> 214 It will not be a miss here, if you think fit, to go by Land to <i>Modena, Parma</i> and <i>Piatzena</i> and returne by the River <i>Po</i> to <i>Ferrara:</i> But because I had not the Fortune to see them my self, I shall not say any thing of them, but returne to <i>Ferrara,</i> which is not above half a Days Journie, or thereabouts, from <i>Bolognia.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Ferrara,</i> is situated in a large Plain about half a mile distance from the <i>Po.</i> It belongs to the Ecclesiastick State, and is governed by the <i>Popes</i> Legate. The Streets, Houses and Places, are very handsome &amp; fine, as also the Churches &amp; Religious Houses. In the Monasterie of S. <i>Bennet,</i> you may see the Sepulchre &amp; Epitaph of the famous Poet <i>Ariosto.</i> It hath a verie strong and well contrived <i>Cittadale.</i></p>

<p> From hence you go to <i>Venice</i> by Water, that is in an open Boat, by a <i>Canale</i> near to the side of the <i>Po,</i> where ye imbarke in a bigger Vessel, which goes constantly twice a Week to <i>Venice.</i> If the Wind be favourable, you will easily accomplish the Voyage in 10 or 12 houres 215 time, but if otherways, you may be longer, and therefore you will do well to make Provision of Victuals, to take along with you. When you Arrive at <i>Venice,</i> it will be needfull to Lodge in a convenient Place of the Town, and for that end, you will do well to provide your self of a Recommendation to the English Consul; from <i>Rome</i> or from <i>Bolognia. Giles Jones</i>  was Consul in my time, and entertained Lodgers himself, he was a verie honest Man, and did faithfullie send my things to <i>London,</i> according to the address I gave him. When you are setled in a Lodging, It will be time to take a View of the Town, for the doing of which and considering it well, 3 or 4 Weeks is little enough. Nothing in Nature can appear more prodigious than to see a Vast big Town seated in the middle of the Sea; everie House whereof at one side or another is touched by the Water, and the nearest Land being 4 or 5 Miles distance. It was built at first upon the little Island of <i>Rialto</i> in the Year 421, perhaps later by the Inhabitants of the 216 firm Land that were chaced from their own homes by <i>Attila</i> King of the <i>Huns,</i> &amp; forced to make choice of this place for their safety; since that time they have built upon 70 or 71 Isles more, which are joyned together by upwards of 450 Bridges. The Town is about 8 Miles in compass. There are but few Streets built on both sides, except some open places. The most part of the Streets have a Canale or Ditch in the middle, by which the Gondols pass, which is a great commoditie, for there is scarce a House in the Town, but one may be carried this way, either close to it or within a few steps of it. The Canals are different in breadth, some more some less large, the narrowest is broad enough for one Gondole to go by another; It is remarkable, that the Water Ebbs and Flowes here 4 or 5 foot, which is not observed in the <i>Adriatick</i>  farther down towards <i>Naples,</i> nor in any other Port of the <i>Mediterranian</i> Sea; The Gondals are believed to be above fourteen or fifteen thousand in Number; they are small tight Boats much cleaner &amp; 217 finer than Oares upon the <i>Thames,</i> having a prettie Tilt over the seat where the Passingers sit, &amp; will be able to accommodat 5 or 6 Persons: It is usual for Gentlemen or Persons of Qualitie to have their own Gondols, and those Richer than the ordinary; some are rowed by one, some by two, and it is somewhat extraordinary that the Rower does not sit within the Boat, but stands upon one side of it, and lookes the same way that he rows. At the turning of any Corner, after they come within such a distance of it, they are obliged to cry, to give notice to the Gondols on the otherside whom they cannot see, and he that cryes first hath this advantage, that he turnes close by the corner, and the others are obliged to give him way and take it larger: And I assure you it is no small wonder to me that there being so many corners to tur[...]e, and so continuall and frequent intercourse of Gondols going some the one way, and some the other; and in the dark as well in the Day: there should be so few Accidents of running one another down, especiallie, 218 considering with what swiftness thay go. The largest Canale, called <i>Canale grande,</i>  is about 13 or 14 hundred paces in length; &amp; fourtie in breadth, and divides the Town as it were in two. The Bridge of the <i>Rivo alto,</i> or as it is commonlie pronounced <i>Rialto,</i> is one of the most magnificent Structures in the Citie: it consists but of one <i>Arch,</i> &amp; yet is said to have cost above 250 thousand Duckets; at the one end of the Bridge, there are three large Streets divided by 2 rowes of Houses, which are so many Merchant shops. This serves for the Exchange, where the Merchants meet about Noon to do their affairs. </p>

<p>
 There are so manie things considerable in this Place that it is difficult to comprehend them in this short Narration, and therefore I shall onlie name a few of them, and leaue the rest to your particular inquirie, which will not be hard for you to make, when you are upon the place. Be pleased then first to take notice among the Churches of that of St <i>Mark,</i> which properlie, is onlie the Dukes Chapel belonging 219 to the Palace of St. <i>Mark,</i> whose Bodie being brought from <i>Alexandria</i> is preserved here; The Church has 24 <i>Chanoines</i> belonging to it under one Head, called <i>Primicero.</i> He is commonlie chosen by the Doge, and wears the Miter and other Ornaments of a Bishop, &amp; uses to give his Benediction to the People as Bishops do. The inside of the Church is of Marble of diverse sorts, and all verie fine, with above 40 Marble Pillars; It is paved with Porphire, Serpentine &amp;c. in Mosaick Work; Upon the Top of the great Altar, there is a Globe enriched with a great number of Pearles and other Jewels of price; The Roof of the Church consists of 5 <i>Cupula's</i> covered with lead; It hath 5 Doors of Brass, and over the great entrie on the outside there stands four Delicat Horses, equal in bigness to the Natural, of Brass Guilded, which at first were placed upon the Triumphal <i>Arch</i> of <i>Nero,</i> after he subdued the <i>Parths,</i> but were afterward carried to <i>Constantinople,</i>  when the Seat of the <i>Empire</i> was removed from <i>Rome</i> and at last brought 220 hither by the <i>Venetians</i> when they took <i>Constantinople. 2ly.</i> That which is most worthie of the seeing (it may be in all the World) is the Treasure of St. <i>Mark,</i> where amongst other things you will see 12 Royal Crowns &amp; 12 <i>Breast</i> Plates of Gold, ful of Pearles and Jewels; taken as they say at <i>Constantinople;</i> And the Tradition is, that they were the Ornaments of the 12 Maids of Honour that waited upon St. <i>Helena</i> Mother to <i>Constantine</i> the <i>Emperour;</i>  several Rubies weighing 8 Ounces a Peece, and a Saphir that weighs ten Ounces; two Unicorns Horns; severall Vessels of Precious Stones&#0183; as Agat, J[...]spir &amp;c; one of Emerauld which a King of <i>Persia</i> presented the Senat with. One of one single Turkis; another capable to hold a <i>Scots</i> Quart of one single Granat; The Tiar or Bonnet wherewith the Duke is Crowned, is Garnished with Jewels of inestimable price; There is a vast deal of other Riches, which I cannot particularly remember; There is likewa[...]s to be seen the Picture of the blessed Virgin done by St <i>Luke.</i> The Acts of the Apostles 221 writen in golden Letters by the hand of St <i>John Chrysostome, Patriarch</i> of <i>Con[...]tantinople.</i>  It will be worth your while to go to the Top of the Steeple, from whence you will have a delicat Prospect of the whole City and Neighbouring Islands, of a part of <i>Lumbardie,</i> of the severall Mouths of the River <i>Po,</i> The Hills of <i>[...]tria;</i> &amp; the Sea about&#0183; <i>3ly:</i> The Palace of St <i>Mark,</i> whereof the <i>Arches,</i>  Pillars, Halls and Chambers are all most Statelie, especialy the great Halls, which are Painted by the greatest Masters of their time; for the fetter understanding of which, it will be fitt, that you get a Printed Inventorie [...]f all the particular Ornaments of this Palace. </p>

<p> <i>4ly,</i> The <i>Piazza</i> of St <i>Marco,</i> which is one of the Largest and finest that can be [...]  in any Town in <i>Italy;</i> being com[...]sed with most Stately and regular Buildings&#0183; with large <i>Arches</i> and <i>Portic[...]es</i>  to walk in, in the time of Heat or Rain&#0183; with all sorts of Merchandise and Trades. This Place is the most diverticeing in all <i>Venice,</i> for here you may 222 see People of many Nations with different Habits. At that end of that place which lookes to the Sea, there stands two Marble Pillars, each of them of them one Peece, of a great hight and bigness, at a reasonable Distance one from another. Upon the Top of the one is placed a flying Lion guilded, which is the Armes of <i>Venice,</i> and the Symbole of St <i>Mark;</i> Upon the Top of the other the Statue of St <i>Theodore</i> gilded. Betwixt these Pillars, Justice is usuallie done upon Male-factors. About the middle of the place stands 3 verie Tall Poles like unto Ships Masts, whereupon the Standards of the Republick are displaied at great Solemnities. On that side of the place, which is opposit to the Dukes Palace, stands the <i>Mint-House,</i> a verie goodlie Fabrick, composed of Stone and Iron, without any Wood at all. <i>5ly.</i> The <i>Arsenal,</i> which is the largest and best Furnished in the World; it is strongly Walled about, and the Sea drawn about it likeways. There are fifteen or sixteen hundred Men constantly at Work, besides 223 Old Men, who are not able to work, but intertained for instructing the younger. Here are keept all sort of <i>Amunitions</i> of War both for Sea &amp;
 Land, in vast Quantities, and in that good Order, that I have heard some confidentlie say, <i>that there were Workmen within the</i> Arsenal, <i>that were able to build a</i> Gally, <i>and reik her out compleatly in one Hours time;</i> which if it be true, argues a great deal of sharpness in the Workmen, and readiness of the Materials. </p>

<p> There are severall lesser Islands at some distance from the Town, worthie to be seen, and particularlie, 1. <i>Murain</i> about a Mile Northward from the City. It is well built and many good Houses in it; It is in this Island, that all those famous Crystall Glasses so much talked of, and so much sought after throughout the World, are made. It is observed here, that the Glass-works succeed much better on the one side of the Street than on the other. They have likeways a great Art of whitneing Wax, which is observed to succeed better in this Island 224 than any other place in or about the City. There are abundance of Oysters likeways in this Island; they ordinarly keep them in Baskets near the Shoare, to have them in readiness when they are called for, but in my opinion they are neither so pleasant, no[...] so wholesome as at <i>Lighorn</i> and other places, especiallie being eaten raw, for I have often found the eating of them so, to give a verie troublesome Flux of the Belly to severall Persons. <i>2ly.</i> The Isle of St <i>Helena,</i> where there is a verie statelie Monasterie &amp; Church, with <i>Monks</i>  of the <i>Order</i> of <i>Mont Olivet.</i> In this Church is keept the Body of the <i>Emperess</i> St <i>Helena.</i> This Isle lyes to the Eastward of the Town, and about two Miles further the same way, stand the two Forts <i>del L[...]do</i>  and <i>Casielnovo,</i> which both defend them selves mutuallie, and secure the entrie to the City from Enemies in time of War&#0183; <i>3ly. Malamocco,</i> where all Ships and Vessels of anie considerable Burden do Arrive because of the deepness of the <i>Harbour. 4ly.</i> The Isle of St. <i>George,</i> lying 225 just before the place of St. <i>Mark,</i> at half a Miles distance, where there is an <i>Abbace</i> of the <i>Order</i> of St. <i>Benedict,</i> with a most Stately and Glorious Church, together with a Garden and fair Walks, which is thought no small thing in that Place. </p>

<p>Altho' a Traveller cannot be alltogether sure of his times, there being so many Contingencies that may force him either to Arive too soon or too late; yet it were to be wished that a Man might happen to be at <i>Venice</i> in the time of <i>Carnoval,</i> because of the <i>Opera</i>'s and fine shows that are to be seen, and the Extraordinarie Musick at that time. In the <i>Summer</i> time the great Divertisement is to go in Gondole upon the great Canale, where towards the Evening, one may see Five, or six hundred Gondols touring up and down, full of Ladies and Gentlemen, &amp; severalls of them with Musick, both Vocal and Instrumental; which is one of the greatest <i>Gusto's</i> imaginable.</p>

<p> You cannot miss to meet with a great many Curiosities here, both Natural and 226 <i>Artif[...]cial,</i> because of the great resort that Strangers have to this Place, especiallie from the <i>Levant;</i> you will find <i>Medals, Intaleo's, Chamaeo's</i> &amp;c. amongst the Goldsmiths. I have seen severall Curiosities to sell in the place of St. <i>Mark,</i> and sometime within the Court of the Palace, and in many other corners throughout the City. You may meet with maby Curiosities of <i>Glass,</i> that are both usefull and delightfull. It will be worth your while to Visit the Book-sellers Shops, for besides many Curious Books, that you may light upon here, and particularly of <i>Botany;</i> you may likeways find verie many Books, that are prohibited in many other places of <i>Italy.</i> Be pleased to inquire diligently for a thin 40. called <i>Trattato de simplici Pietre. &amp; pesci marini che nascono del lito di Venetia di Antonio Donati Farmacopeo all'insegn[...]  di St. Liberale in Venetia</i> 1631. Printed by <i>Pietro Maria Bertano. Donati</i> himself was Dead before I came thither, but I found out his Brother, a Man of the 227 same Profession and living at the same place, but nothing knowing in <i>Simples.</i> After I had told him the respect I had for his Brothers <i>Memorie,</i> and my regrate for the loss of so worthie a person; he was pleased to show me a great many <i>Brass-Plates</i>  of so many <i>Plants</i> not yet described, together with their description done by his Brother; I am confident were they Published, they would make a bigger Volume than the first. They were in Confusion when I saw them, but I put them in Order and prayed him to keep them so, untill he should find the opportunitie of printing them, which I found him willing to do at his own Expense, nor to trust it with an other, least his Brothers name should have been stolen from it. If it be not as yet printed, you may see what you can do, either to purchase the Manuscript and <i>Plates,</i> or promise the printing of it. </p>

<p>There are many Virtuosi in the City, that have great Collections of fine things which you may be pleased to inquire after and see.</p>

<p> 228 From <i>Venice</i> you have twentie five Miles to <i>Padua,</i> whereof fo[...]r by <i>Berg</i> to the <i>Terra ferma,</i> and the rest you go by Boat, drawen with Horses by the River <i>Brent,</i> which is a most pleasant and soft running River, having plain, Fertile &amp; most delicious Fields on either side, full of Villages &amp; pleasure-Houses, to which the Inhabitants of <i>Venice</i> use to resort in the <i>Summer-Time.</i>  </p>

<p>The River runs not all of a Levell, &amp; therefore there are three or four <i>Locks</i> or <i>Sluces,</i> by means whereof, at severall places the <i>River</i> is made portable; which otherways it would not be. There is such an other <i>Lock</i> upon the <i>Canale</i>  of <i>Briar,</i> near to <i>Montargis</i> in <i>France.</i> You will more easilie understand the manner of them by seeing them, than by any description I can make of them.</p>

<p> <i>Padua,</i> in Latine <i>Pattavium.</i> Is a very Ancient and Large Town; famous over the World, for its <i>Vniversity;</i>  whence it is called <i>Padua la dotta.</i> There are many things considerable in the Town fit to be seen and take notice of. As 1. The 229 Churches as namely that of S. <i>Sophia,</i> that of <i>Justino,</i> which is all Pavemented with white &amp; red Marble; there is an <i>Abbacy</i> joyning to it of the <i>Order</i> of St. <i>Benedict;</i> the Reformation of which Order did begin first here. It was Anciently the Temple of <i>Concord.</i> The place before the Church is very large &amp; spacious. They say ten Thousand Men might be drawn up within it. The Church of St. <i>Antonia de Lisbon,</i>  is notably designed, and hath many Rich things belonging to it; many Relique's, but amongst others the most considerable is the Body of St. <i>Antonia,</i> commonly called of <i>Padua,</i> because he Died and was in[...]erred here. There is great a Devotion payed to this <i>Sainct,</i> and a great concourse dayly to the place, as well of the Inhabitants of the Town, as of <i>Pilgrims</i>  that come from other places. They use to kiss the <i>Marble-Stone</i> that covers his Sepulchre; and they say it smels of Musk. <i>2ly.</i> The palace of Justice, which is most stately. The Stairs are all of <i>Marble</i> covered with <i>Lead</i> without the support of any Pillar. The great <i>Hall</i> is 256 foot in 230 length, and 86 foot in breadth, and very well painted, and at the end of it, that Statue of <i>Titus Livius,</i>  whose Tomb is likeways to be seen in the Town. <i>3ly.</i> The Schooles, which is a very stately Fabrick, being a 4 square court, where you will see a great many of the Statues or <i>Busta</i>'s, Names &amp; Arms of so many Consuls, that have been of the several Nations that compose the <i>Vniversity;</i> the <i>Scholars</i> here have large <i>Priviledges,</i>  and many times abuse them, and become very insolent, insomuch that they have been sometimes known to threaten the <i>Podesta</i> himself or Governour of the Town; they have, likeways a beastly custome of carrieing Arms in the Night, insomuch that it is never safe to be abroad after it hegins to be Dark, for many are this way unhappity Murthered without any Offence given or taken, but only by wantoness, or rather Wickedness of the Scholars. <i>4ly.</i> The Physical Garden, which is exceedingly fine, not so much for the number as rareness of the <i>Plants.</i> You may easily make your addrefs to the Professor that 231 keeps the Garden who in my time was the <i>Excellentissimus Signeur Tore,</i> but the Gardener will be sufficient to do your turn, for in giving him a small peece of Mony, you will command both <i>Seeds, Plants,</i>  and all that he hath. We have a very worthie Gentleman of our Countrie, called Doctor <i>Cadenhead;</i> in my time he was Publick Professor of <i>Logick nel Bo,</i> which is the Publick <i>Schooles.</i> He is a most courteous and obliging Gentleman, and will be ready to do you all the kindness's Imaginable. <i>5ly.</i> You may see the Hospitals for sick Folk, and many other things, which for Brevities sake I omit, only I intreat you be at the paines to Visit the Book-sellers Shops; and if there be any new thing in Physick, since the 62 or 63 Year of God, I intreat you to bring them along with you for me, especialy if there be any thing of <i>Rhodius,</i> who hath promised us his commenta[...]s upon <i>Cornelius Celsus</i> long ago. </p>

<p> If you please, you may make a little Journey to the <i>Euganean</i> Hils, which are not far from <i>P[...]dua.</i> There is very good 232 Herborsing upon them. It will be worth your while, likeways to see <i>Abbano,</i> a Village 3. or 4 Miles distant from <i>Padua;</i> famous for its Natural Baths. At the end of the Village there is a little rising or <i>know;</i> upon the Top of which there are a great many Springs of hot Water, some where of are scalding hot. The Water is convoyed by little Conduits to several Houses about, where Baths are keept for sick People, but the greater part of it is convoyed the other way by a trough, where, at the distance of a Musket shot, it moves a Milne. The water it self is whitish, having a white slimy substance in it, which it deposes every where, where it runs, and which in process of time becomes as hard as a Stone; in so much that the Miln-Wheel, and all the Wood that is toucht by it, becomes crusted as it were with <i>Marble;</i> and if it be not broken of timeously, it stops the Motion of the Wheel just as <i>I[...]eicles</i>  use to do with us. The Country about <i>Padua</i> is very Plain and exceedingly Fertile, insomuch that they use to say, <i>B[...]lognia 233 la grassa, ma Padua la passa;</i> yet the Wine is not good, but a red small Claret-Wine such as they use at <i>Venice</i> for ordinarie drink. When you ha[...] past some time at <i>Padua,</i> and satisfied your self, of all that is to be seen and known there, it will be time to set [...]orward for <i>Milan.</i>  </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Padua to Verona.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i> 
<l>Mil[...]s</l> <i>Vicenza </i>  

<l>17</l> <i>Montebello </i> 

<l>12</l> <i>Scaldere </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Veron[...]  </i> 

<l>12</l> </UL>

<p> In going from <i>Padua</i> to <i>Vicenza,</i> you will do well to turne a little out of [...]  way to see a place called <i>Gus[...]so,</i> [...] is a House of Pleasure belonging to a [...]r[...]ticular Person, where, besides many [...]riosities, of Gardens &amp;c. there is p[...]ticular wayes of conveying the Win[...]  [...] the <i>Caves</i> below to the upper [...] 234 which makes a Delicat <i>Fresco</i> in the greatest heats of Summer. It stands at the foot of a very great <i>Mountain,</i> under which are the vastest and biggest <i>Caves</i>  I ever saw; but seem not to be Natural, but rather Quarries, out of which the greatest part of the Stone that <i>Vicenza</i> has been built with, has been taken. In one place of these <i>Caves,</i> there is a little Well made by the Water that drops from the Top of the <i>Cave,</i> which petrifies any Wood, Straw &amp;c. that lyeth any time in it, and yet the Water keeps clear it self, without congealing. Near to the City of <i>Vicenza,</i> upon your left hand, you wil see a delicat Peece of <i>Architecture,</i> made by the famous <i>Architect Vinogli,</i> which is likeways designed in his Book; It is only a House of Pleasure, and stands upon a considerable hight from the City, discovering all the Country round about. </p>
			
<p> <i>Vicenza</i> is a good large Town, having many fine Churches and Palaces, with a large place for Tilting and other Exercises: there is likeways in it a Noble Theatre built by <i>Vinogly:</i> the Country about is exceedingly 235 Fertile, and abounds with all sort of good Fruit, and is therefore called the <i>Garden of Venice.</i> </p>

<p> <i>Verona</i> is an easie days Journey from <i>Vicenza;</i> It is an Ancient City, large and well built, having many stately Palaces, Churches &amp;c. &amp; an old <i>Amphitheatre,</i> yet more intire than any other in <i>Italy.</i> The Town is divided in two by the River <i>Adice,</i>  it is wel Fortified, having 13 <i>Royal Bastions,</i> and three <i>Castles;</i> the two parts of the Town, are conjoyned by 4 large <i>Stone Bridges.</i> There is excellent Herborizing upon the Hils near to the City, but especially upon the <i>Monte baldo,</i> which is about 20 Miles distant from this City, and which is described at great length by <i>Joannes Pona,</i> whose Book I suppose you have seen. The Palace <i>del Conte Justi,</i>  is worthie the seeing, together with the Gardens and <i>Grotta's.</i> Amongst the rest, there is one of a Reasonable Capacitie built with that Artifice, that four Persons being placed in the four Corners, may speake each of them to his Neighbour in the opposit Corner, 236 and yet not be heard by those that stand in the middle between them. In the Palace of the <i>Signeur Conte Gregorio Bevila[...]&#0183;</i> there is a Gallerie, in which you may see a great many fine Pictures, Statues, <i>Medals,</i> and other Rarities. </p>

<p>[...]rom <i>Verona</i> you pass by <i>la peso[...]eira,</i>  which is a strong Fort, upon the River [...] issues from the <i>lago di Garda:</i> from [...] you go to <i>Dissanzano,</i> which tho' [...] big Town, but rather a Village, I look upon it as one of the pleasantest [...] in <i>Italy;</i> being upon the side of [...]  <i>lago di Garda,</i> a Lake not so [...] as long, for in length it reaches to [...] <i>Rhetici.</i> The Country about [...] and Fertile, and the Lake it [...]  [...]ounds with all sorts of Excellent [...] such as <i>Pykes, Pearches,</i> red and [...] Trouts &amp;c. and of all there are [...]  very big. In my time there was [...] [...]rench-man, that keept a very good [...], where we had excellent Fare [...] of fish and Flesh, and the best Wine [...] the whole State of <i>Venice,</i> and all at [...] Rate.</p>

<p> 237 From <i>Dissanzano,</i> you go to <i>Bre[...]cia,</i> which is not above half a days Journey distant from <i>Dissanzano.</i> It is a large and very strong Town, especialy the Castle thereof placed upon a Hill, that Commands the Town. It is famous for making of <i>Guns,</i>  and <i>Pistols,</i> especialy the <i>Cannons</i> of them, which are the best I ever saw by farr. If you have the opportunity of carriage, it would be worth your while to make Provision for your self here. If you resolve to make your return, not to <i>Lions</i> but, throw <i>Switzer-Land</i> and <i>Germany,</i> down the <i>Rhen,</i> &amp; so throw <i>Flanders</i> and <i>Holland,</i> then it will be fitt when you are at <i>Bol[...]gnia</i>  to go up the <i>Po,</i> by <i>Modena, Parma, Piazz[...]nza,</i> and so to <i>Millan,</i> and from thence to <i>Turrin,</i> and then back to <i>Millan</i>  again, and so returne by the other way of <i>Bergamo, Brescia, Dissanzano, Verona, Vicenza</i> and <i>Padua</i> to <i>Venice,</i> by which means you will not only see the sweetest and most Fertile places of <i>Lumbardie,</i> but also have the commoditie of bringing what ever you find in all that 238 way to <i>Venice,</i> from whence it may easily be Convoyed into <i>England.</i> From <i>Bres[...]i[...]</i>  to <i>Bergamo</i> you have a dayes Journey: You must Dine at a Place called <i>Pallazolo;</i> It is a little inconsiderable Town. I remember we had a Letter of Recommendation from the Duke of <i>Norfolks Major-Domo</i> at <i>Padua,</i> to a Gentleman in this place, who was exceedingly Civil to us &amp; sent us a Present of excellent Wine, &amp; (which was of farr greater importance to us) gave us the assurance of the peaceableness of the Countrey &amp; security of Travelling, which sometimes is not without the danger of being robbed; it being near the Frontiers of the state of <i>Millan:</i>  &amp; in such cases, it is usual for Rogues, when they have done a Mischief to pape into the next state, where the Laws of the other State cannot reach them. The project of our recommendation, was to have been conducted by this Gentleman on our way; if there had been any such need. He willingly profered it, but we, upon the assurance he gave us did as willingly deny to accept it. </p>

<p> 139 <i>Bergamo</i> is situated upon the side of a Hil, Fortifie with 9 <i>Bastions</i> besides the <i>Castle,</i> which is extreamly strong. There is, as I take it, in the <i>Dominicans</i>  a Rare <i>Bibliotheque,</i> Collected by the great expense of <i>Alexander Martinengo,</i> You will do well here to exchange all your <i>Venetian</i> Money into <i>Spanish</i> Money, &amp; such as will pass into the State of <i>Millan.</i>  You have a Days Journey from hence to <i>Millan,</i> and must Dine at a Place called <i>Villa nova:</i> as soon as ye have Dined, you pass the River <i>Tesin:</i> And then enter the State of <i>Millan.</i> </p>

<p>As you enter the State of <i>Millan,</i>  you will find some Searchers or wayters of the Custom-House, to whom you must give some small thing to let your Baggage pass, or else you may be troubled with them.</p>

<p> The State of <i>Millan,</i> altho' but small in extent, is yet one of the pleasantest &amp; Fertilest places in <i>Italy.</i> The Country is very Plain. The High-ways for the most part very large and straight, planted with <i>Trees</i>  and <i>Hedges,</i> on every side, 240 and having Canales of water, for the most part, on every side; and Travellers have this Advantage also to meet with better <i>Inns</i> and better accommodation here than on any other Road in <i>Italy.</i> The Inhabitants are not given to mutiny and Rebellion as those of <i>Naples,</i> but willingly submit to their Prince. It is said that the King of <i>Spaine</i>  Governs the Kingdom of <i>Sicilie</i> with mildness: <i>Naples</i> with subtilitie and the Dutchie of <i>Millan</i> with Authoritie. They say likeways that the inferior Governours of <i>Sicilie,</i> only but Gentlie: Those of <i>Naples</i> eat lustilie, but that in <i>Millan</i>  they devoure. I have observed throughout all <i>Italy,</i> that the greatest part of the <i>Inn-keepers</i> and <i>Taverners</i> even in <i>Rome</i> it self are <i>Milanese:</i> as also that the greatest part of the Masons that serve all <i>Italy,</i> are of this Countrie: and it is a verie great Mark both of their love to their Countrie and loyaltie to their Prince, that when they are not able to get so much by staying at home, as to entertain their Wives and Children, and pay Publick Burdens, they 241 are contented to live abroad most part of their lives, and returne that home which they Gaine abroad; for they never carrie their Wives with them, nor Children till they be able to Gaine for themselves: Onlie it may be they make them a Visit sometimes. The Citie of <i>Millan,</i>  which is Capital of the Dutchie, is one of the stateliest in <i>Italy:</i> it is near ten Miles in compass, but a considerable part of it, especiallie toward the Walls, is Gardens. The Streets are large &amp; handsome; Many statelie Churches and Palaces: But I shall Mark them a little more particularly as I have done in other Towns: And 1. to begin with the Churches, It is said there are above 230 in the Citie and Suburbs, whereof 96 are parochial: 40 Convents of Religious Men, and 50 of Religious Women. The Cathedral Church called <i>il Domo,</i> is one of the greatest and most Glorious in <i>Italy</i> except St. <i>Peters</i> at <i>Rome.</i> It is intirely built of white <i>Marble</i> within &amp; without, but that which is to be pitied is, that the design is <i>Gothick;</i>  it is not yet 242 quite finished; but they are still at work, and you may guess when they are like to come to an end, they haveing been up wards of 200 Years at work allreadie. There are above 600 <i>Marble</i> statues about the Walls, everie one of which cost at least 1000 Crowns, amongst which the statue of <i>Adam</i> and St. <i>Bartholomew</i> are much esteemed, especiallie the latter which is thought to be one of the best in <i>Europe.</i> The Pend of the Church is supported by 160 white <i>Marble</i> Pillars, each of them of that bigness, that scarcelie can three Men fathom them. It is believed that they stand not under 10000 Crowns a peece. All the rest of the parts of the Church are correspondent in Magnificenee, only it appears to me to be somewhat darker than need were. Amongst many other things that are considerable in this Church is the Body of St. <i>Charles Boromeus</i> in a Chappel under Ground. It hath a Lamp burning before it, and you look down through an Iron Tirles from the Church to see it. You may see the Head and Feet, but the 243 rest of the Bodie is covered with his pontificall Habit. There is a rich Treasure belonging to the Church, where you will see, amongst other things&#0183;
 a Silver statue of the same St. <i>Charles</i> in his Pontifical Habit, with many precious Stones of great Value upon the Myter thereof. It was presented by the Jewellers and Goldsmiths of <i>Millan.</i> In the Church of St. <i>Ambrose,</i> you may see a Pillar in the middle of the Church, upon which stands the <i>Brazen Serpent</i> that <i>Moses</i>  elevated in the Wilderness. You may likeways see two statelie Tombs, one of the Emperour <i>Luis,</i> and the other of <i>Pepin</i> King of <i>Italy,</i> both Sons of <i>Charles</i> the Great. Here also you may see the Chapel where St. <i>Augustine</i> was Baptized. In the Church of St. <i>Satyre,</i>  upon the great Altar there is a Picture of the blessed Virgin with the Babe <i>Jesus</i> in her Armes, of which they tell a wonderfull Story, that it being placed upon the Church-Yard-Wall, a certain Gamester called <i>Massario Vigonzonio,</i> being mad to have lost his Money, struck the little <i>Jesus</i> with a poynard, 244 whereupon immediately there gusht out abundance of Blood, after which it was placed upon the great Altar where it is yet to be seen. </p>

<p><i>2ly.</i> The Palaces; amongst the rest that of the Governour.</p>

<p><i>3ly.</i> The Hospitals; which are said to entertain above 9000 poor People all the Year long, at the expence of the Publick. That which is called the great Hospital, entertaines alone more than 4000, and so it may, for it has three Score ten Thousand Crowns of Yearlie revenue. The <i>Lazaretto</i> is a kind of Hospital without the Walls, It is a large Square court about a Mile in Compass, not unlike the form of the <i>Carthusians</i> Houses; that are divided into so many little appartments. The chief Design &amp; use of it, is in the time of the Plague: at other times it stands emptie, only some few persons that have the keeping of it, remaine there.</p>

<p>
 <i>4ly.</i> The places in the Town; chiefly the Exchange, where the Merchants meet; there you will see the statue of St&#0183; 245 <i>Augustin,</i> and the place where he taught Rhetorick before his conversion to the Christian Faith. </p>

<p><i>5ly.</i> St. <i>Ambrose</i>'s <i>Bibliotheck,</i>  where not only these Books that belonged to St. <i>Ambrose</i> himself, but many other Books that have been presented since, are kept.</p>

<p> <i>6ly. Septalie</i>'s Galerie. This <i>Manfredo Septali,</i> is Son to that famous Physician <i>Ludovicus Septalius,</i> who hath written many things, &amp; learnedly in Philosophie and Medicine. He is at present one of the <i>Canons</i>  of the great Church; And one of the greatest Virtuosi in <i>Italy.</i> His Studie of Books consists of 2 or 3 Roomes. His Galerie of Curiosities of three Roomes. The Curiosities are both Natural and Artificial, of so great a Number and Varietie, that I must not insist upon particulars; but only refer you to the description thereof in Latine by <i>Paulus Maria Tersagus,</i> the Book is in 40. <i>Dertono</i> 1664, and bears the name of <i>Musaeum Septalianum.</i> He hath also an other Room or two, full 246 of working Tooles, [...]ome for turning, others for Grinding of optick Glasses of all sorts and Fashion; and here you will see a great Variety of Musical Instruments. Most part of the Booksellers live near to the Exchange, but their Magasins are in severall other places of the Town; you must be carefull to see them all. You will undoubtedly find some to please, on which perhaps you will not readily fall else where. </p>
<p>You will meet with many Curiosities in this place, especiallie of <i>Cristal,</i> brought hither from the Alps, and a Thousand Conceits, most delicatly wrought of Straw. I have heard of peeces of <i>Cristal,</i> with severall shapes represented within them naturally, as of Trees, Flees, &amp;c. others with a drop of water within them, that one might perceive to move, but is was not my Fortune to light on any such.</p>

<p> <i>7ly.</i> The Castle of <i>Milan,</i>  is one of the greatest Forts in <i>Italy,</i> with six Royal Bastions, a large Fossey full of running water, and within it a second Wall of 247 strength. The Place within will admit of 6000 Men to be drawn up, It has above 200 peece of <i>Cannon&#0183;</i> all sorts of <i>Ammunition</i> and 600 Spaniards in Garison. It has a Water Miln within it for Grinding of Corn, which is moved by the running Water that fills the Ditches. </p>

<p>At a Miles distance from the Town, there is a Privat Gentlemans House, where the <i>Echo</i> is so excellent that it repeats above 40 times, which you may try, ether by speaking Loud or otherways with a Trumpet; but the surest way is with Pistol Shot, for then you may distinctly tell to 40, one after another.</p>

<p> The <i>Carthusians</i> have a stately Monastery at 10 Miles distance from <i>Millan,</i> wihin five Miles of <i>Pavia,</i> which hath 500000 Crowns of Yearly revenue; The Monks use to entertain Strangers for one Night. The Church is of a most Delicat Fabrick and very Rich. If you please you may go from hence to <i>Pavia,</i> Anciently <i>Ticinum,</i> and afterward called <i>Pavia.</i> The Town is very strong and stands upon the <i>Tesin&#0183;</i>  248 It is the Chief <i>Vniversity</i> of the Dutchie of <i>Millan,</i> but because I was not in it my self I cannot say much of it, only I have heard that in the great place of the City stands the <i>Brazen Statue</i> of the Emperour <i>Constantine,</i> or as some think of <i>Antoninus,</i>  very much esteemed. If you list to go thither I believe it may be well worth your seeing, because of the <i>Vniversity,</i> for, for any thing I know, there may be both good Books, and a <i>Physical</i> Garden there. </p>

<p>From <i>Millan</i> to <i>Turin,</i> you have about 73 <i>Miles.</i></p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Millan to Turin.</H4> <i>Buffalora </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Novara </i> 
<l>16</l>
<i>Vercelli </i> 
<l>15</l> <i>S. Germano </i> 
<l>13</l> <i>Ci[...]uas </i>  
<l>10</l> <i>Turin[...] </i> 
<l>10</l> </UL>

<p> You have two <i>Rivers</i>  to pass, by Boat 249 <i>viz.</i> the <i>Dorn,</i> after you pass <i>Vereelli</i> and the <i>Tesin</i> near to <i>Ci[...]uas:</i>  Near to <i>Vercelli</i> you enter into <i>Piedmont,</i> &amp; there you will meet with waiters or Customers to whom you must give some thing, and before this time it will be fitt that you have changed all your <i>Spanish</i> Money except it be Pistols, or half Pistols of Gold, for these will pass any where, either in <i>Piedmont</i> or <i>France.</i> When you Arrive at <i>Turin</i> you will think your self allready in <i>France,</i> for their Apparel, Customs and Discourse, are almost altogether <i>French.</i> </p>

<p> <i>Turin, Augusta Taurinorum</i> is the Capital City of <i>Piedmont,</i> and is situated in a Plain about 20 Miles distant from the Alps; having the <i>Po</i> on the one side and the <i>Dorn</i> on the other. The Dukes of <i>Savoye</i>  keep their Court here, and have made it both very pleasant &amp; very strong: There is the old and new City, which is very well and regularly built. It is compassed with <i>Royal Bastions,</i> and Walls. It hath a <i>Citadale,</i> consisting of 5 strong <i>Bastions.</i> They say it is after the Model 250 of the <i>Citadale</i> of <i>Antwerp.</i> The great Church is called the <i>Domo,</i> where amongst other relicts is keept and had in Veneration the <i>Sanctum Sudarium,</i> upon which the <i>Visage</i> of our Saviour &amp; the greatest part of his Body is impressed. There is a famous <i>Vniversity</i>  here, &amp; this is said to be the first Town in <i>Italy</i> that had the first use of Printing. The Castle serves now the Duke for a Palace. There is a rare Galerie to be seen, with many fine <i>Pictures, Antick Statues</i> &amp;c. and a great Collection of <i>Manuscrips.</i> Amongst the new Buildings the Royal Place is considerable; the walks thereof being full of Shops and Merchandice of all sorts. You may likeways see the <i>Valentine,</i> which is a beautifull Palace, built by <i>Madam Royal</i> a little beneath the Town upon the Bank of the <i>Po&#0183;</i> In the Suburbs of the <i>Po,</i> there is a House called <i>Albergo</i> worthie the seeing, because of the many excellent Manufactories of Silk, and other Stuffs that are made there. </p>

<p> 251 I leave the rest to your own observa[...]ion, that <i>I</i> may haste to bring you over [...]he Alps; the ordinarie way is to Tra[...]el with the Messenger to <i>Lions</i> or to <i>Ge[...]eva.</i>  We came to <i>Lions.</i> It is a Jour[...]ey of 8 or 9 dayes. The first day we [...]arted from <i>Turin</i> about ten a Clock in [...]he forenoon, and came to lye all Night [...]ome 10 or 12 Miles from <i>Turin,</i> having [...]llready entered into one of the Vallies [...]hat leads to the foot of the Hill; the next day we Dined at an other little Village hard by the foot of the Hill, cal[...]ed <i>Monte Cene,</i> here we hired Mulets to [...]arrieus up the Hill; it being impossible for our Horses to do it. You must likeways [...]ire Men to carrie you down on the other side of the Hill, because it is a great deal too far to walk, and the way that the Horse goes, is farr about, because of the steepness of the Hill. And yet <i>I</i> mnst tell you that the Hill is three times steeper and less accessible on the <i>Italian</i> side than on the <i>French</i> side. As you mount the Hill, at first you will find the soyle somewhat fertile at least wayes for 252 pasturage and abundance of Wood; but when you are [...]ot higher you will find nothing but Rocks, &amp; Shrubs, here &amp; there; there is a little beck in the face of the Hill, where there stands a few Houses, or rather corbie nests; a habitation which some People have chosen for the benefit they may make by Accommodating Strangers that pass that way, for they are all Victualing-Houses, and (as I take it) a Smith or two. When you pass this and continue still to <i>Mount,</i> you will be about the middle Region of the Air, and it's a hundred to one; but you may see <i>Clouds</i>  enough beneath you, &amp; it may be the Rain falling from them; and then you will begin to find it cold what ever time of the Year it be, and the the higher you go it will still&#0183; be the [...]older, till you come to the very highest pitch you are to go, and there you will meet with a little House, in which one can scarce stand upright, where, if you have leisure, you will get some Bread &amp; Drink to buy; they usually have white Hares and white Partridges to sell, and 253 as usuall it is for Strangers to buy them for curiosities sake, &amp; have them dressed at their next Lodging. From this you have a Plain of above half a mile in length, which for the most part is coveted with Snow, except in the heat of Summer and then it will be green in some places that are most exposed to the Sunn. The great Pike of the Hill, which yo[...] leave upon the right hand as you enter the plain, is above two miles higher, and perpetualie covered with deep Snow. About the middle of the plain stands the ruin of a great House, which <i>Madam Ro[...]al</i>  began to build, but whither she finished it or not, I cannot tell; however I am sure nothing but <i>omnipotencie</i> could make a House resist the Rage of so much Wind and Storm, as that Place is Subject to. When you come to the end of the plain, there is an other little Victualling House, but it was Desolate, when I pass'd. You quite your moulets at the entrie into the Plain, and take your own Horses, and here you quite them again, and leave your Messenger to wait upon them to the bottom 254 of the Hill, the best way he can, and permit your self to be carried by two men which came along with you (for according to the number of the Companie there comes two for one from the <i>Italian</i> side, as I hinted at before) It is a kind of Barrow, with a litle Seat, &amp; a back at it, with two little handles to hold by, &amp; a foot board for streaching your limbs before you, tyed at both ends with a peece of small Rope, that they set [...]ou upon; &amp; then carrie you the nearest way down the Hill, which you would think steep enough for <i>Goats</i>  to climb. They go at the Rate of an Ordinary Horse trot, &amp; as they go will trist the stones to step upon, which lye confusedly here and there, as exactly as if they were a paire of stairs and yet they will not fall once in 500 times, and if they should it would be a fall without any great Perill. But indeed the danger on the <i>Italian</i> side is much greater; there being great Precipices on the one hand, where into, if one should fall it were impossible to escape, insomuch that I have often wondred how any Body durst 255 adventure to climb upon a Beasts back: and yet is admirable to see with it what dexteritie these poor Moulets pick out their way, where scarce any man could crawle all four, &amp; how sure footed they are. But I must returne to the <i>French</i> side, where you may pay off your porters when they have brought you to your Lodging at a little Village near to the foot of the Hill. The ordinarie rate is a Crown a Head that is, half a Crown to every Porter. </p>

<p> I have told you the way of passing the <i>Mount Cene</i> at such Seasons, of the Year, as there is little or no Snow: But in the Winter time when the Snows are fallen the Passage is much more uneasie &amp; unsafe, especiallie if they be newly fallen, and the paths not trod; for then it is not only impossible to go without 2 or 3 Guides, that in case one should drop throw the Snow there may be more hands to let fall a Rope and bring him up again; for sometimes that will happen, as when a Courier is necessitat to pass upon important affairs, &amp; any of the Guides chance to mistake a step, he will some 256 times slip down 100 fathom or two. But this is not the greatest Danger neither, for in the <i>French</i> side, from the foot of the Hills, you have a whole dayes Journey and more through a narrow Valley with a small River in the middle of it, which, at the foot of the Mount <i>Cene,</i> one may easilie step over, but it grows still bigger, as it advances throw the Valley; being increased by the water that pours from everie cleft of the Hills and Rocks, which are on everie side of the Valley, of a prodigious height, and most precipitious: The current of the River falling sometimes to be on one side of the Valley, and sometimes on the other, for the most part casts the highway on the contrary side; So that verie often you will chance to pass under horrible Rocks that hang over the high way, and when the Snow is new fallen and they loaden with it, the least noise in the World would bring down a whole Mountain of Snow, So that if a Passinger were so caught, you might look upon him as buried till the following Spring. </p>

<p> 257 But I shall advise you to choose a fitter Season, and then you will have the Satisfaction of Herborising, for the lower parts of the Hills are all covered with Trees &amp; many sorts of Plants, that do not grow Naturalie in an other Soil. I confess my Fortune, as to this, was ill; for after I past the <i>Monte Cene,</i> we had a constant deluge of Rain, till I came the length of <i>Chamberrie.</i> But I must not here forforget to acquaint you with an other particular that had almost escaped me, in time of Snow: and it is this. When you come to the <i>French</i> side (supposing the Snow to be frozen and able to bear above;) there is a singular way of going down the Hill, which they call <i>R[...]masser, ou se faict Ramasse.</i> That is to have a little hurdle of Wood, upon which the Passingers is placed, with a little bit of Boord behind it, upon which the fellow stands that Guides the way, and so you come hurling down together, at a greater rate than the swiftest Horse in the World is able to go. </p>

<p> 258 I do not remember to have remarked any thing worthie the troubling you with, upon the way from <i>Mont Cene</i> untill you come the length of <i>Momilian,</i> except only that the Inhabitants near the <i>Alps,</i> are troubled with a certain Disease called <i>Bronchocele,</i> which is an outward swelling in their Throats from the Chin downward, sometimes to the middle of their Breast, so that they appear at first to have no Neck or Chin, but one continued Thing from their Mouth downward. It is exceedingly hard and easily affected with Cold; the cause of it is believed to be their continual Drinking of Snow-water, which runs continually from the Neigbouring Hills. </p>

<p> <i>Montmelian,</i> is a Fortress of great strength upon the Borders of <i>Savoye</i> near to <i>Daufin;</i> it is the only considerable place for strength in all <i>Savoye,</i> &amp; stand[...]  within 3 leagues of <i>Chamberrie,</i> &amp; within 5 or 6 of <i>Granoble,</i> which is a Parliament Town, and the Capital City o[...] <i>Daufine;</i> as <i>Chamberrie</i>  is of <i>Savoye.</i> [...] the necessity of your occasions and you[...] 259 Engagement to the Messenger oblige you not to go straight to <i>Lions,</i> it will be very proper to see <i>Granoble,</i>  Anciently called <i>Gratianopolis</i> from the Emperour <i>Gratian:</i> not that he was the first Founder of it, but because he enlarged it much, and beautified it. It lyes in a plain at the foot of the Hill <i>Chelmont,</i> and hath the River <i>Isere</i> on the one side, &amp; <i>Drac,</i>  which is an impetuous torrent on the other. A little beyond the <i>Drac,</i> there is a wonderfull Curiositie to be seen; that is, a Fountain that burneth constantly. The Fields about the Town are exceeding Fertile, and carrie good Wine, but the neighbouring Hills are so high, that you may see Snow all the dayes of Summer upon their Tops. The Manufactorie of Gloves and dressing of Skins of all sorts is much commended in this City. </p>

<p> But the most considerable thing in all this Country to be seen is the great <i>Charter-House,</i> so called because the General of the <i>Order</i> is obliged to Reside here. It is a statelie Monasterie, but stands in the wildest place that ever my feet trod 260 upon. The Reason they give for choosing this place is, because St. <i>Bruno,</i> the first <i>Instituter</i> of their <i>Order,</i> did pennance here; It stands very near the <i>Mount Chelmount,</i>  being three Miles distant from <i>Granoble</i> by a continual ascent. These three leagues will take you eight or nine good Hours riding, for in many places it is not safe to ride, and you must be forced to walk a foot. About the mid-way there stands a little inconsiderable Village of 4 or 5 Houses, where it wil be fit to repose a little; you will get Bread and Wine, and it's fourtie to one but you may meet with some good peece of <i>sanglier,</i> which abounds upon the Hill; being it is for the most part covered with Trees. When you come within a Mile of the House, you meet with a great Port and a Porter to wait upon it, who I suppose shuts it in the Night time. Within the Port there is a Bridge over a great Cleft, within, which runs a little Rivolet; there is no possibilitie of entering any where on that side, but by this Port, from which you ascend still to the Monasterie, but, 261 the way is easie, and all within the top[...] of the Hills covered with <i>Oakes, Beeches,</i> and <i>Firr-Trees;</i>  within half a Mile of the Monasterie or some less, stands their Stables, Garnels and other Office-Houses, which indeed are statelie and well appointed, for there&#0183; they have lay-brothers of all Trades that serve to their purpose, and to this place it is that your Horses are sent back from the Monasterie to be [...]eept till your going away, and if by chance any of your own or Horse-Furniture had been broken by the way, or your Horses lost a Shooe, they will be all repaired next Morning without your desiring it. They have good store of Hay, and have made severall Closes near to the Monasterie, (which stands on that side of the Hill that hangs to the Southwest, and consequently has most of the Sun for making of Hay,) having felled down all the Wood that grew upon them. When you Arrive at the Monasterie, you alight from your Horses and then the Porter desires you to stay untill he call the Prefect, who presently comes and informs 262 himself of your Names, Qualities, Country, and the Occasion of your coming (for most part come out of Devotion, and they be but few Strangers that come for Curiositie, but however all are welcome,) which being done he craves you Patience to acquaint the General, but he very soon returnes to conduct you to your apartement, only you must leave your Swords and Pistols with the Porter at the Gate. The Monasterie is verie large, and they have a different apartment for most Nations. We were carried into one that was very convenient, being a large Room wanscoted about with Firr-[...]ords; and for Fireing, every Log of Wood they put on, is like the End of a Ships-Mast. Our Beds for the most part were at the sides of the Room within the Wal, all boorded abou[...] like a Ships Cabbin; and for Courtens having two folding leaves, which you may shut or leave open at pleasure. Upon our first Arrival into this Room, we were presented with a Collation of very good Wine, Bread, Butter and Cheese; and then a Guide 263 given us to conduct us up the Hill, yet half a Mile further, to see St. <i>Bruno</i>'s Chapel, that stands in the place where he did his Pennance for many Years together, as they will more particularly inform you, &amp; as you returne they will let you see another Chapel Dedicated to our Lady. By that time you are returned to the Monasterie it will be time to Supp, and then according to your number you will be treated with more or fewer Dishes. We were only six in Companie, and we had above 30 Dish of Meat, but there was not above three or four Varieties, except in the way of dressing; &amp; for that they are admirable. I believe we had at least a Dussen of different dishes of Eggs, all prepared in different maners; the rest were a few Fishes and <i>Fritato</i>'s, for seeing they never eat Flesh themselves, it cannot be exspected they should give it to any other Body within their Monasterie. The next Morning the Prefect conducts you thorow the House, shewes you the different Apartments, and particularlie to us was shown that of the 264 <i>English</i> Nation, which they used to Assigne for them in former times, but now because of their defection from the Faith, they have given it to the <i>German</i> Nation. They show you painted about the Walls the severall Torments &amp; Deaths inflicted upon those of thei[...]  <i>Order</i> in <i>England,</i> in the time of King <i>Henry</i> the 8. &amp; Queen <i>Elizabeth.</i> They let you see the Church, the <i>Library,</i>  the <i>Refectory,</i> the Religious <i>Cells,</i> the <i>Kitchen,</i> (which is the best I have seen in <i>France</i> after that of the <i>Jesuits</i>  at <i>L[...]-Flesch,</i>) and lastly the <i>Cellers,</i> which are well enough furnished, but nothing so well as those at <i>Naples</i> of the same <i>Order.</i> If any Gentleman be desirous to see the General, and speake with him, it will be granted him, and he will find him very Civil. All this being done you Breakfast, the Prefect waits upon you to the Gate, where your Horses attend you, and your Arms are delivered you, &amp; so leaveing a little Drink-Money to the Servan[...]s, (about a Crown a Head for Gentlemen,) you take leave and returne again to <i>Granoble.</i> I must only add that 265 all this Hill over there is excellent Herbarizing. </p>

<p>From <i>Granoble</i> to <i>Lions,</i> you have a Matter of 15 leagues, in which there is little considerable.</p>

<p>From <i>Chamberrie</i> to <i>Lions</i>  there is 16 leagues, but nothing considerable upon the way; save only that within 2 Miles of <i>Chamberrie</i> you have only the <i>Gabelette</i> to pass, which is a very steep and high Mountain in several parts precipicious, especiallie on the <i>Savoy</i> side, yet you mount that side on your own Horses, and must carrie along with you from <i>Chamberrie</i> Porters to carrie you down the Hill, on the <i>French</i> side. I think you will pay but half a Crown for your two Porters, and you will find them as dexterous in their Trade, as those of <i>Mount Ceni's.</i></p>

<p> Some that have a mind to see <i>Geneva</i> pass the <i>Alps,</i> either by the <i>Mount Sampion</i> or the Mount St. <i>Bernard,</i> and so from <i>Geneva</i> either go straight to <i>Lio[...]s,</i>  which is a Matter of 26 Leagues, or else from <i>Geneva</i> go to <i>Chamberrie,</i> which is 266 12 Leagues, and from thence to <i>Montmelian,</i> the <i>Grand Charterhouse,</i> and so pass by <i>Granoble</i> to <i>Lions.</i>  This is all that occurs to my Memorie at present, concerning this Journey. </p>

<p> In truth I am very sensible that it might have been much more accurat, had I been so diligent as to write of it in the time I made the Journey, when all things were fresh in my Memorie. But that occasion being lost; <i>I</i> had no more left me, but to Recol[...]ect my Thoughts as carefully as I could to satisfie your desire, &amp; the rather because I am hopefull, it will provoke you to make a more diligent Inquiry after all things, and to set them down Orderly, without trusting your Memorie. This <i>I</i> conjure you to do; and assure your self, it is one of the greatest things <i>I</i> will expect from you at your return. <i>I</i> confess, <i>I</i> have been somewhat prolix in my narration, but, if you consider the vastness and Fertilitie of the Subject, you will find few Towns in <i>Italy,</i> of which there might not have been more said than I have said of them all; &amp; this you 267 will easily find to be true if you please to make a Collection of those Books that are writen of the Antiquities, and Curiosities, of each of them: For there is scarcelie any Town in <i>Italy,</i> where, you may not find such Books. However such as it is I offer it you, and wish it were better for your sake, for whole service it was only undertaken; aud if it prove acceptable and usefull to you, I have my designe. I shall o[...]lie add that it had been sent you much sooner, had not the Necessitie of an Extraordinarie attendance upon this <i>Winter-Session,</i> so often withdrawn me, together with the other Duties of my Profession, which I was Obliged to perform. </p>

<p>Postscript.</p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>A List of those Things, which I desire The Laird of LEVINGSTONE to procure for me in Italy.</H4> 

<l>
<p> 1. All the new Books of <i>Physick, Botany,</i> and that any way relate to the Historie of Nature, that have been printed since 268 the 64. and of Old Books, <i>Aldrovandi's</i> works at <i>Bolognia,</i> together with any other he can meet with, that was contained in the first List I gave him when he parted from hence, as also at <i>Rome</i> I desire him to buy me a Book in <i>Taildouce,</i> containing all the Antiquities, <i>Palaces Statues, Churches, Villa's, Fountains, Pyramids</i> &amp;c. in <i>Rome.</i> I would have it of the best, largest and finest Impression; and if you cannot get them so in one Book, I would have you take them in severall Fashions as you can best find them: You may inquire <i>appresso Giacomo di Rossi a la Pace in Roma.</i> Also <i>Caroli Avantij, Paraleipomena Botanica,</i> if it be to be had, for I never saw it, onlie he promiseth it in his <i>Notes</i> in <i>Caenam Baptiste Fiera</i> 4. <i>Patav</i> 1649. </p> </l> 

<l>
<p> 2. At <i>Florence</i> I desire that you would remember to procure me a small Parcel of all the Varieties of Stones you can come by. The readie way will be to inquire for them at the Stone Cutters in the great Dukes Chapel at St. <i>Laurence</i> Church, or else at the Work-men that work in Stone for 269 Cabinets at the Dukes Gallerie. But above all, of these two kinds of Stone that are most comon at <i>Florence;</i> whereof the one Represents Trees, and Forrests; the other, Towns and Villages: I would have of each two or three large handsome choise Peeces, fitt to be put in Frames. I would likeways have of those peeces of <i>Cristal</i> that are extraordinarie for Colour, or otherwayes that have any Substance, contained within them; as water, &amp;c. you may possibly find such, either at <i>Florence</i> or <i>Millan,</i> or it may be <i>Venice</i> or any other where. There is likeways a Stone called <i>Lapis Fungiferus;</i> It is a Stone that being placed in the Ground produces large Mushroms; I had one of them given me at <i>Rome,</i> but unhappily lost it at <i>London.</i> To the best of my Memorie, they are commonly found about <i>Praenestae,</i> commonly called <i>Palestrina.</i> Some honest Virtuoso, &amp; particularlie <i>Padre Barilieri alla Minerva in Roma,</i> will tell you where they may be got; I have likeways heard that they were in many places of the Kingdom of <i>Naples.</i> </p> </l>
 
<l>
<p> 270 3. I humbly desire likeways some parcel of <i>Antieails,</i> some[...]three or 4 of the <i>Antiche Lucerne</i> of the best fashioned and best preserved. In my time there was 2 or 3 in the <i>Piazza navona,</i> that sold such things, and particularly an Old Man, whose Name I have forgot, that had whole Cabinets full of <i>Intalio</i>'s and <i>Medales.</i> I desire likeways some <i>Intalio</i>'s that be truly <i>Antique:</i> the excellencie of the Impression, and the deepness of it commends them, especiallie if they be well preserved, &amp; neither the Stone nor impression spoiled. I would likeways have some <i>Brass-Medals</i> of the <i>1st.</i> or second <i>Magnitude,</i> that be well preserved. There are many things that commend <i>Medals</i> to be good, particularly, 1. to be Antique and not Counterfeit. 2. To be well preserved, <i>3ly.</i> to have a good Reverse; &amp; it is to be observed, that the differences of reverses make different Medals, altho' they be of the same Emperour, or Consul, and of the same <i>Magnitude,</i> and it is likeways to be observed that those Emperours who Reigned longest had the greatest Varietie of Medals; As for Reverses, the 271 best are such as are least common; as for example <i>a Charriot, a Triumphal Arch, a Trophie of Warr, a Man or a Womans Head for the Reverse, two Faces on one side, a Galey, the Instruments of Sacrifice, an Amphitheatre, a Mousolium, an Elephant, a Lion, a Dolphin,</i> and many more such that I cannot remember of; as also a Reverse charged with many Figures, can never be ill, nor one that relates any known Historie, as one that I have of <i>Titus Vespasian</i> with a Palm[...]Tree, a Slave sitting at the foot of it, with this Word, <i>Judea capta</i> for the Reverse thereof. But <i>I</i> doubt mine is only a Copie, and not truly Antique. <i>I</i> would likeways have a few <i>Chamaeo</i>'s providing they be not dear; that which commends them is to have the Figures well done, and to be well preserved. The Pretiousnes of the Stone doth likeways contribute much to their Value. In all there, that is, <i>Medales, Intaglias, Chameo</i>'s, <i>I</i> would be content that ye did bestow 4 or 5 Pistolls for me, which tho' <i>I</i> confess it be a very small Summ; yet you may chance to make a better purchase for it at <i>Rome</i> 272 than any where else for a farr bigger. Lastly, to conclude this Article, <i>I</i> would fain have some of the Ancient Glass, which through time looks now as it were Opal; Nothing will commend it so much as to find an intire vase or <i>Phiol,</i> for example a <i>Lachrimatory,</i> such as the Ancients used to cape their own or their Friends Tears in. </p> </l> 

<l>
<p><i>4ly.</i> There is the Face of a Hill near to <i>Rome,</i> as <i>I</i>  remember, it is at the End of the <i>Janicular,</i> not farr from <i>Cardinal Francis Barherin's Villa,</i> that is full of Shells of all sorts <i>Petrified,</i> or if ye please to call them Stones, resembling all the Species of Shells. By what means they came there, <i>I</i> leave you to find out&#0183; only <i>I</i> would fain have you to make good Provision of all the Varieties of them, and these as intire as you can get them.</p>
 </l> 

<l>
<p> <i>5ly.</i> At <i>Naples I</i> would desire you to buy me a couple of black Sashes, Net-work such as they use. <i>I</i> think the best use to cost 3 or 4 Crowns a Peece, and <i>I</i> would have the best. <i>I</i> would likeways have you to buy me at <i>Luca,</i> or at <i>Florence, I</i> think you may do it in either, two of the largest 273 quilted Silk Stomagers, or Breast-Plates, such as people use to wear there in Winter time. And at <i>Rome</i> I intreat you to buy me a Dossen a pair of Gloves, <i>Concia di Roma,</i> not exceeding a <i>Testone,</i> or 4 <i>Julio's</i> a pair: and at <i>Venice</i> two <i>pound,</i> of the best Old <i>Theriae.</i> At <i>Bolognia</i> a Dossen or two of <i>Soap-Balls.</i>  </p> </l> 
<l>
<p> <i>6ly.</i> All the Natural Curiosities that you can meet with, with your conveniencie of <i>Fowls, Fish, Insects</i> or other <i>Animals,</i> the manner of Ordering, of which I have written to you formerly. I confess these you sent me from <i>Paris</i> were the best ordered I ever saw; but besides that it is too Expensive, you will not allways meet with the Oportunity, of having them so ordered; therefore it will be sufficient, if the Skins (being carefully taken of, and stuffed with <i>Flax,</i> or <i>Cotten</i>) be so preserved: But for the smaller sort of <i>Insects,</i> their whole Bodies will easily preserve; the Guts being first taken out. Of this kind I would have these <i>viz.</i> a <i>Viper</i> or two both the kinds of <i>Tarantula, viz.</i> the <i>Stellio,</i> which is a kind of <i>Lizard</i> Curiously, Spotted, but 274 accounted <i>Poysonous;</i> and the other true one, which is shaped like a <i>Spider:</i> and what others you think fitt. </p> </l> 

<l>
<p><i>7ly.</i> Be pleased to make me some purchase of Outlandish Curiosities, especially, such as are from the <i>Levant,</i> of whatsoever Sort that you can meet with. Buy me at <i>Venice,</i> a <i>Stilletto,</i> and a pair of <i>Armenian Shoos,</i>  shod with Iron on the heels, such as they use to wear undermost.</p> </l> </UL>

<p>For the rest I refer you to the <i>Itinerary,</i> and shall earnestly intreat you to do me the Favour to Remember all my desires, as farr as may Stand with your Convenience, for further I should be very sorry to trouble you. I do likeways with much Earnestness Recommend to you those Particulars, concerning my self, mentioned in such Places of the <i>French Itinerary</i> (which I sent you last Year) as you have not yet seen. Thus, once again wishing you all happiness,</p>
 </br> 
 I Remaine Your <i>&amp;c.</i> </br> 226 [...] 227 [...] 228 [...] 229 [...] 230 [...] 231 [...] 232 [...] 233 [...]  234 [...] 235 [...] 236 [...] 237 [...] 238 [...]  239 [...] 240 [...] 241 [...] 242 [...] 243 [...]  244 [...] 245 [...] 246 [...] 247 [...] 248 [...]  249 [...] 250 [...] 251 [...] 252 [...] 253 [...]  254 [...] 255 [...] 256 [...] 257 [...]  </br> </br> 

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 </br> <B>Author:</B>&nbsp;Balfour, Andrew, Sir, 1630-1694.
 </br> <B>Title:</B>&nbsp;Letters write [sic] to a friend by the learned and judicious Sir Andrew Balfour ... containing excellent directions and advices for travelling thro&#039; France and Italy, with many curious and judicious remarks and observations made by himself, in his voyages thro&#039; these countreys, published from the author&#039;s original m.s.
 </br> <B>Date:</B>&nbsp;1700
 </br> <B>Bibliographic name / number:</B>&nbsp;Wing / B552
 </br> <B>No. of pages:</B>&nbsp;[14], x, 274 p.
 </br> <B>Copy from:</B>&nbsp;British Library
 </br> <B>Reel position:</B>&nbsp;Wing / 1582:32

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<p>LETTERS Write to a Friend, By the Learned and Judicious Sir <i>Andrew Balfour,</i> M. D CONTAINING Excellent Directions and Advices For Travelling thro' FRANCE <i>and</i> ITALY With many Curious and Judicious Remarks and Observations made by Himself, in His Voyages thro' these Countreys.</p>

<p>Published from the Author's Original M. S.</p>

<p><i>EDINBURGH,</i> Printed in the Year, M.DCC.</p>
 </br> </br> 
 </br> <H4>To the Most Illustrious, Most Potent, and Noble EARLE, ALEXANDER Earle of Murray, Lord Doun and Abernethy, &amp;c.</H4> </br> <H4>Sometime Lord High COMMISSIONER, And Principal SECRETARY of State For the Kingdom of Scotland.</H4>
 </br> My Noble Lord!

<p> IN all Ages, discerning and serious Men, who knew best to allow and distinguish things and Persons, have made it their great Complaint, That the present Generation did degenerat from the former; And that the Generality of Men were too apt and ready to pursue bad Courses: And some thinking Persons now, are easily induced to believe, that, the Days we live in, the World is not much mended. This notwithstanding, no Time hath been known (how dissolut soever) wherein some worthy &amp; vertuous Men have not appeared, who have studied to improve Natural and Moral Enduements, and to pursue Vertue, preferring that way to base Interest, and selfish Ends. And it is well known, that even at this Time, when many &amp; great Duties are easily superceded, there are here and there some Persons who worthily act upon the Principles of Honour, Conscience, and Vertue, maugre all Discouragements. Among whom Your Lordship (even in your Solitude) moves and acts in a very high and conspicuous Sphere, to that Measure of lovely Vertue and Splendor, that Your Friends and Wellwishers admire, and your Enemies (if You have any) can find no matter of Censure. If there were many such in the Nation, it would be no hard mater to retrieve &amp; bring in Vogue again, these adequat Qualities and Vertues, which often have rendered many of our Countrymen (endued therewith) famous and illustrious both at Home and Abroad. In the mean Time it is to be wish'd that each man would labour to reform Himself and his own Ways, conforming them to these excellent Rules. And that certainly at length would make and advance a laudable Reformation indeed. But it is to be feared, that this would rather prove an abortive Wish, than that it shall have its wisht for Effect: albeit (to have it so with the World) it should be a part of our dayly Prayers, and come in continually to Our <i>Letany.</i> </p>

<p>My Lord!</p>
<p> Whilst You are Enjoying Your self, and are solaced with the Comfort of a good Conscience, in Your Retirement, making your self an Example of Vertue, and a Patern of Honour and Goodness to those who observe you and your Actions. I humbly address <i>Your Lordship,</i> not desiring to interrupt Your Repose, but to afford You a litle divertisement for some of your vacant and Recreating Minuts: By Offering to <i>Your Lordships</i> Perusal these following <i>Sheets,</i> and Begging <i>Your Patronage</i> thereto: And I judge I have little Reason to despair of your Favour and Acceptance, since <i>Your Lordship</i>  was Pleased to shew a more than Ordinary Affection and Kindness to the Author my Father. And therefore I hope this little Tract wil give <i>Your Lordship</i> some Content; and for others I am bold to say, I hope well: for many Persons of great <i>Honour</i> and <i>Judgement,</i> have (since my Father the <i>Authour</i>'s Death) been sollicitous to get written <i>Copies</i> from the <i>Original,</i> which was indeed perfected by My <i>Father</i> in his Own Time, without any Design to make it publick. But my <i>Father</i>'s M. S. with all his <i>Books</i>  being committed to a certain Person he, without my Privity, gave out <i>Copies</i> to <i>Knowing</i> &amp; <i>Inquisitive Persons,</i> as of late I came to understand, and now these <i>Copies</i> abounding abroad, and most (if not all) being defective or incorrect, (to Prevent my <i>Father</i>'s being abused) I now send a True <i>Copy</i> abroad unto the <i>World,</i> and let it See the Light: And go it must under <i>your Lordships Patronage,</i> for I am confident the Design will succeed the better, and the <i>Book</i> will be the more acceptable to these who Love and Desire the <i>Knowledge</i>  of such <i>curious Maters:</i> Nor shal I diffide its <i>Fate,</i> being first wellcome to Your Lordship, to whom I hereby address the same, most humbly and heartily, and not in course, ingyring upon a Patron, as the custom sometimes is. </p>

<p> Thus, begging Your Lordships Pardon for my Presumption, I do intreat from your Lordship the Honour to be accounted, </p>
 </br> 
 My Noble LORD, Your <i>Lordships</i> most humble, Most Faithfull, most Devoted, And Obedient Servant, M. BALFOVRE. </br> 
 </br> </br> 
 i </br> <H4>TO THE READER</H4>

<p>IT is needless to show the many advantages may be had from Travelling, since all are convinced of it; and the VVisest of Men in all <i>Ages</i>  have thought this the best way to improve themselves: thus, as <i>Homer,</i> the <i>Greek</i> Master, showes us, <i>Vlysses</i> followed this Method.</p>
 </br> </br> Qui Domitor <i>Trojae</i> multorum providus Vrbes, </br> Et Mores hominum inspexit; latumque per aeqour </br> Dum sibi dumsocijs reditum parat, aspera multa </br> Pertulit. </br> 

<p> And such a one <i>Homer</i> drew his Son <i>Telemachus,</i> whose adventures have of late been Painted by an excellent Pen, with all the advantages, requisit for the education of a good Man and Excellent Prince. ii Indeed, the World is a Theater, in which we may see not only the different productions of Nature, but also all the Arts &amp; Mysteries of Government; and all the wayes of improving Nature by Art; and every Climate affords new <i>Scenes</i> for improving <i>Geography, Natural</i>  and <i>Civil Historie, Medicine, Commerce,</i> and all the <i>Mechanick</i> Arts. </p>

<p><i>Medicine</i> certainly is much improved this way, for thus <i>Galen</i> writes, he sailed to <i>Lemnos, Cyprus</i> and <i>Palestina</i> of <i>Syria,</i> on purpose to see foreign <i>Plants,</i>  and rare Ores and Mineralls.</p>

<p> The following Letters give you some account, to this purpose, of these Countries in <i>Europe</i> viz. <i>England, France</i> and <i>Italy,</i> which for, Politeness &amp; Civility, for <i>Grandeur</i> and Magnificence, &amp; for Arts and Inventions, and the Publick incouragements of them, farr excelleth all the rest. The Author of them, Sir <i>Andrew Balfour,</i> Doctor of <i>Medicine,</i> spent some fifteen Years in his Travels, &amp; Residence in these Countries; He was a Man of an Excellent VVit, and of a Ripe Judgement, and of a most taking behaviour; He had improven himself iii to the best advantage, with all the learning taught in the most famous <i>Vniversities</i>  of these Countries, had acquired their Languages, and Conversed with the most famous Man then alive. The particular Curiosity He had to learn every thing that might enrich his mind with knowledge, was in his youngest Years favoured with the Example and Instruction of his eldest Brother, 30 Years elder than himself, the Famous Sir <i>James Balfour, Lyon King at Arms,</i> who had a Curious <i>Bibliotheck,</i> had Collected in his Cabinet many Curious Products of Nature and pieces of Art, and took delight to cherish this early Curiositie of his youngest Brother: With this Disposition &amp; proficiencie in the Learning then taught in his Native Country, He begun his Travels, which, in so long a Tract of time he employed that way, came to Qualify him exceedingly for performing all that is recorded of him. [<B>Note:</B> In the Memoria <i>BALFOUR[...]A[...]A.</i>  ] </p>

<p> When He wrot these Letters He had setled his abode at <i>Edinburgh,</i> where He Practised <i>Physick</i> with great Success, &amp; iv deservedly gained the Reputation of the best Qualified <i>Physitian</i>  in the place, and accordingly was employed by these of the best Rank. About a Year or two after his settlement here He took the Resolution of erecting a publick Garden for <i>Plants,</i> and a Cabinet of Curiosities: He had begun the last in his own Lodging&#0183; and was projecting how He might establish the other, when He became acquainted with that worthie Gentleman <i>Patrick Murray,</i> Baron of <i>Livingstone,</i> to whom these Letters (now publish'd) were addressed. This Gentleman designed so much for the good &amp; Honour of his Country, that I cannot but in this place do that Justice to his Memorie to give the World some Character of him, having been well acquainted with him, &amp; having had the happiness to make the Acquaintance, &amp;
 beginn the Friendship contracted betwixt him, and Sir <i>Andrew Balfour,</i> which produced these Letters. </p>

<p> This Gentleman had a particular <i>Genie</i> inclining him to studie Natural History, and all the wayes and means, how to improve the Arts, most usefull to his Countrie; He v had studied the <i>Mathemathicks,</i> &amp; delighted much in the practical part of them, &amp; employed much of the Revenue of that plentifull Estate He had from his Ancestors, in purchasing Instruments, &amp; Curious Books, which treated on these Subjects, He having Travelled over a great part of this Country, in searching after the Plants that grew wild up and down in it, &amp; withall having read severall writers on the Plants, he every Year sent for new Seeds of foreign Plants: He inclosed a considerable Parcel of Ground, in which He trained them up with great Skill; and before He [...] to his Travells, He had of domestick and foreign Plants, growing in his Garden at <i>Livingstone,</i> above a Thousand: He was above thirty six Years of Age before He began his Travells, and had fitted himself by reading of <i>Voyages,</i>  and such Books as might best inform him of what He was to inquire for, in foreign Countries, ye[...] He was so sensible of the great Advanta[...] [...] that Learning Sir <i>Andrew Balfour</i> [...] [...]ster of, that He not only inform[...]d [...]  him of the best Books, fitted [...] vi and the designe He had to Learne all that might be for the improving of knowledge, &amp; of the Arts usefull to this Country, but likewise He obtained his promise to intertain a Correspondence with him whilst He was in foreign Countries, by Letters, upon all Occasions. These three make a Part of what Sir <i>Andrew</i> wrote. He had whilst He was abroad, bought up most of the writers extant upon Plants and other parts of naturall History, and many relating to the culture of Plants; He had [...]exactly learned all the Plants then keept in the Kings Garden at <i>Paris</i> (the most compleat that is in the World, either for the number or the Quality of the Plants) or in privat Gardens there; and had travelled thorough a great part of <i>France,</i> when He was surprized with a Feaver, that he contracted at <i>Avignion,</i>  of which he dyed. </p>

<p> He begun his <i>Voyage</i> the <i>2d.</i> of <i>September</i> 1668, and dyed in <i>August</i> or <i>September</i> 1671. In these places of <i>England</i> and <i>France</i> He Travelled thorough, He gives a very particular Account, even of the Dimension vii of the Publick Buildings, the Remarks, the distances of the places; He gives an Account of the Government of <i>France,</i> of the <i>Peers</i>  there, &amp; the <i>Orders</i> of <i>Knighthood;</i> He gives an account of the Remarkable Manufactories in <i>France,</i> &amp; particularizes some of the Mines and Quarries of <i>Marble,</i> and has an Account of the <i>Canale</i>  for the Communication betwixt the <i>Mediterranean</i> and the <i>Ocean;</i> He shows the Quality of the Weather, the Habits of the People in the Souths parts of <i>France;</i> He des[...]ibes the Monuments of Eminent Men, &amp; [...] some of their Sepulchral inscriptions, and takes notice of the best Gardens and of the C[...]iners of the Curious where He Travelled&#0183;
 describing many particulars not to be [...]et [...]ith in the printed Voyages, and upon this Account his Voyage deserves very well to be made Publick. </p>

<p> <i>As to these Letters of Sir</i> Andrew Balfour <i>now published, I shall leave the Judgement of them to the Learned, who may peruse them; yet this I must say,</i> There are many particularities in them relating to Natural History, and the way of Safe and connient viii Travelling, not to be met with in the printed Accounts of these Countries, and I am perswaded they are of Excelleut use for these who study Natural History, and Physick, where they may be informed where Plants, &amp; other Subjects of them, are to be found in their Native Places, and where they may see the <i>Cabinets</i>  of the Curious. </p>

<p>Others will be hereby instructed in the <i>Manners, Orders,</i> and <i>Customes,</i> of these People; They will find likeways many Curious Reflections, which are Pleasant to read, and may give rise to higher Considerations. They will see what Varieties foreign Countries of a different Soil &amp; Temperature of Air, do afford; severall of which may be brought here, and may be made usefull to this Country.</p>

<p>
 What Sir <i>Andrew</i> delivereth here, is what he observed, experienced, and handled himself, and none need question the Relations in any Circumstance; He was known to be a most candid and Ingenious Gentleman, He gives his apprehension and Judgment of the Reasons &amp; causes: which was allways much valued by all which ix kneDw him; being a Gentleman of Excellent VVit, and Judgment: He did not expect that they should be printed, and in his lifetime he would never hear of it; and such was his Modesty, he never shewed them to any but his most intimate Friends, and could not be perswaded to give a Copie of them, but since his Death copies of them have past from hand to hand, and all who have seen them are very well pleased; whereupon at the earnest intreaty of his Friends, his Son hath published them in the Stile he found them writen; his design was to render all easie &amp; intelligible to his Friend he wrote them to; if the <i>Phrase</i> &amp; Language seem in some places less ornate, &amp; not so congruous as may be expected now, it is to be remembred, they were writen thirty Years ago, when he had been Fifteen Years absent from his own Country, &amp;
 had accustomed himself to speak foreign more Language, than to Studie the Elegancie of his own Native Tongue; &amp; this I think should excuse him at the hands of the <i>Criticks,</i> He Studied more things than words, x &amp; yet, as all know, He expressed himself most handsomely upon all Occasions. </p>

<p>It was fitt this should be Represented: The rest is left to the impartiall Reader, who will meet with so many Remarkable &amp; usefull things in the Letters, that there is no doubt of his kind Acceptance of them. If these meet with the encouragement hoped for, 'tis like, the <i>Baron</i> of <i>Lovingstone</i> his observations in his Travels, in our Language too, and a Voyage of another Countryman of ours, through <i>France</i> and <i>Italy,</i>  writen in a pure Stile of Latine, may be published for the satisfaction of such as are Curious of Travells,</p>
 <BLOCKQUOTE>Farewell.</BLOCKQUOTE>
 </br> </br> 

 1 </br> <H4>LETTER I.</H4> </br> <H4>CONTAINING An Account of what is remarkable in and about London, &amp;c. And in and about Paris, &amp;c.</H4>
 </br> Sir,

<p> I Cannot inform You of any thing considerable on this side <i>London,</i> except it please you, when you are got the le[...]gth of <i>Huntington,</i> to turn six or seven miles out of the road to see <i>Cambridge;</i>  which I doe truly think worth the while, in regard it is one of the two famous Universities of <i>England,</i> where if it please you, You may take Notice of the number, structure, and order of the Colledges, <i>&amp;c.</i> but particularly of the Libraries and Gardens; as also of the Book-sellers Shops in the town-where possibly you may meet with something 2 that you shal not meet with any where els in order to this it would be convenient to have some letter of recomendation or adress to some member of the University whom you might be sure (upon this account) to find very ready to serve you; I am sorry that I cannot help you in this particular, having never been in this place my self; But I think if you address your self to Mr. <i>Ray</i> (who wrote and published the Catalogue of plants growing about <i>Cambridge</i>) upon the score of seeing that place, and himself as a Person so deserving especially in the knowledge of plants, of which you are also a verie great lover; I make no doubt you shall find him as ready to oblidge you there, as you use to be to any <i>Virtuoso</i> here. </p>

<p> At <i>London</i> I shall advise you to lodg in or about <i>Convent</i>-garden, as a place most commodious for your business. I thought it necessar to accompany you only with two leters of recommendation, the one to Dr. <i>Morisone,</i> whom I think the best <i>Botanist</i> in the world, and a most honest 3 and obliging friend; By his means you will easily see all that is considerable of Plants about <i>London,</i> and purchase what seeds that place affoords. The other is to Mr. <i>Scott</i> a Book-seller, dwelling in <i>Little-Britain</i> by whose means you may be furnished with any Book that may be be had in <i>London;</i> and I think as reasonably as else-where: notwithstanding you will 'doe well to see other shops, as particularly Mr. <i>Bees</i>  and Mr. <i>Pulleyns,</i> both of them in <i>Little-Britain.</i> </p>

<p>As for the other beauties of the Court and City I need not say much, being you will easily be informed of them upon the place: I shall only hint at some of the most considerable,</p>

<p> And first, at <i>Whythall</i> be pleased to take Notice of the [...]anquetting-house; you will find it of a stately fabrick, such as the late King designed to have all the Palace of; it was built by King <i>James,</i> the historie of whose diefication you wil find Painted on the roofe within, by the noble artist <i>Rubens,</i> only you will find the Figures too big, occasioned by the 4 Painters misinformation concerning the Hight of the Room, which he was made beleeve to be greater. The King's privy Rooms are worth the seeing, because of their excellent Ornaments of Hangings and Pictures. </p>

<p>2 The Palace of <i>Westminster,</i> in which I find the great Hall only considerable for its great breadth and artificiall roof.</p>

<p>3. <i>Henry</i> VII. Chappel and the tombs in and near it.</p>

<p>4. You will do well upon some Holyday (if any happen during your abode there) to see the King at Divine service, in regard of the extraordinary state used on such dayes, as also of the excellent Musick; I would advise you likwise to see the King dine on some such day.</p>

<p>5. The Tower, in which be curious to see the Mint Crown, Scepter, &amp; Treasury, the Magazine of ancient arms <i>&amp;c.</i> and the new Arsenall built and furnished by the present King, The wild Beasts.</p>

<p> 6. <i>Gresham</i>-Colledge, where the Exchange is now kept; inquire there for Dr. <i>Pope</i> that by his means you may see 5 a verie fine collection of naturall rarities kept in that Colledge. He will likewise carry you to see the Royall society, if you so desire. </p>

<p>7. The King and Dukes play-houses.</p>

<p>8. The Innes of Court, especially the <i>Temple, Lincolns</i> Inn, and <i>Gray</i>'s Inn.</p>

<p>9. The New Exchange, and not farr from it, <i>Sommerset</i>-House.</p>

<p>10. St. <i>James</i>'s-House and Park.</p>

<p>11. If yow please to take a pair of Oares the length of <i>Greenwich,</i> you will see the Kings new House that is a building there, and if you please to walk up to the Hill above it, You will have a prospect up and down the river, which the multitude of goodly ships, the pleasantness of of the Countrey about, and our Countreyman <i>John Barcly</i>'s curious Description and Commendation of it, render most famous.</p>

<p> 12. For the rest, I shall only put you in mind, that about <i>London</i> there are such places, as <i>Wimbletone</i> belonging now to the Earle of <i>Bri[...]o[...],</i> but lately to the Queen-Mother and in the time of the 6 Rebellion possest by <i>Lambert;</i> who imbellished the Garden thereof with great variety of plants. <i>Hampton</i>-Court and Park belonging to the Kings Majesty. I shall likewise put You in mind that <i>Oxfoord</i> is but fifty miles from <i>London,</i> and that it is one of the most famous Universities in the world, both for the number and structure of the Colledges and Halls, and for the multitude of [...]udents, and competency of their provision. The chief Colledges are <i>Christs Church, Magdalens, All-Souls,</i>  St. <i>John</i>'s, <i>&amp;c. Baliol</i> Colledg was founded by a <i>Scots</i> King's father of that name, The Schools is a stately Fabrick where there is kept a most magnificent Librarie for Number of Books beyond any that ever I saw: there is besides near <i>Magdalen</i>-Colledge a <i>Physicall</i> Garden; when You resolve to goe thither Dr. <i>Moreson</i> wil recommend You to such persons as will be carefull to shew you every thing. </p>

<p> From <i>London</i> to <i>Paris</i> the best way is to goe by <i>Dover</i> and <i>Calais,</i> that you may returne by <i>Die[...]</i>  and <i>Rye,</i> except 7 you make account to returne by <i>Flanders</i> in which case I advise you rather to goe by <i>Rye</i> and <i>Deip,</i> because <i>Rouen</i> (which otherwise will not fall to be in your way) is a more considerable place and better worth the seeing, than any thing upon the way of <i>Calais.</i>  </p>

<p>For your accommodation from <i>London</i> to <i>Rye,</i> you may either take post, or enquire for the <i>Rye</i> Carrier at the Kings Head in <i>Southwark,</i> he will furnish You sadle Horses for 12. <i>sh.</i> a man, and if You have anie baggage he will carrie it at an easie rate; by this way You will arrive at <i>Rye</i> in two dayes, where You may lodge at the <i>Marmaid</i>  untill You find an Oportunitie of passage, for which if there be Passingers enough You must pay 10. <i>sh.</i> but if there be few passingers You will be obliged to pay more.</p>

<p> At <i>Deip</i> be pleased to lodge <i>A la Bastile,</i> the master of the House hath a Son that speaks <i>English,</i> and they are all verie civil people. You may see in the shops verie manie curiosities in that place, and particularlie, <i>Au Roy de la Chine;</i> The 8 Town is famous for working in <i>Ivory, Horn,</i> and <i>Tortois-shell,</i> for <i>Combs, Boxes, Dialls,</i>  and a Thousand other conceats. </p>

<p>From thence you must Hire Horse to <i>Rouen,</i> the ordinarie price is a Crown, if you have no companie you will do well to take a guide by the Land-Lords Direction; you dine at a place called <i>Tostes,</i> the first House of the village which you come at is the best.</p>

<p><i>At Rouen</i> lodge <i>Au Bon Pasteur,</i> the master is a Protestant, and speaks <i>English&#0183;</i> be pleased to take Notice in the Town, of</p>

<p>1. The Bridge on the River, which is of wood, supported by boats, and rises and falls with the Tide.</p>

<p>2. The great Church; if you will be at the pains to go to the Top of the Steeple you may [...]ave a verie good prospect of the Town and Avenues, you may also see the biggest bell in the World called the St. <i>George of Amboise.</i></p>

<p> 3. The Palace, where the Parliament Sits; the great Hall is commended for its breadth, being it is without pillars, but 9 in my opinion it comes far short of <i>Westminster</i>-Hall at <i>London.</i>  </p>

<p>There is a litle Village about half a League from the Town called <i>Santeville,</i> famous for Cream, if you please your landlord will find you a guid to conduct you thither. You may Herbarize by the way.</p>

<p>You may take the messenger to <i>Paris,</i> as being the easiest way, you pay 13. or 14. <i>Franks</i> a man, for which You are to be furnished with horse, lodging and diet to <i>Paris,</i> as al[...]o to have Six pound weight of baggage allow'd you, But if You have any more, You must pay for it beside; The last Meal which you make by the way is at <i>Po[...]to[...],</i>  where it is usuall after Dinner for every Gentlman in the company to give to the conductor a peice of 13. <i>Solds.</i></p>

<p> At <i>Paris</i> I shall advise you to lodge at Mr. <i>Haes,</i> They are very honest people, at least you may stay there untill you find the way of accommodating your self better; he lodges <i>A. Fauxbourg</i> St. <i>Germain rue de la bouchery;</i> There are so many worthie things to be seen in this place that 10 I shall only name some of them, for fear of troubling you too much, and leave the rest to your own observation. </p>

<p>1. See <i>Luxemburgh</i> palace &amp; gardens; <i>Monsieur Marchant</i> will be a fit Person, because of his aquaintance there, to wait upon you.</p>

<p>2. The Kings garden, where be sure to make a strong friendship with the Gardner; and You may command what You will of Plants or Seeds.</p>

<p>3. The Kings Library, and especialy there, the Books of Minature done by <i>Monsieur Robert,</i> which I look upon as the best curiosity of that kind in the World.</p>

<p>4. The Garden of <i>Tuilliaries.</i></p>

<p>5. Monsieur <i>Marchant</i>'s own Garden; He dwells, <i>Rue du Roy de</i> Sicile <i>devant la nostre</i> Dame <i>d' Argent, deriere le petit St.</i> Antoin; his Gard[...]n is hard by his house, and there You may see some curious <i>Plants,</i>  not to be found elsewhere in <i>France.</i></p>

<p> 6. The <i>Jesuites</i> College, where enquire for some <i>Scots</i> Father, and desire 11 him to procure you a sight of the Bibliotheck, and Mathematical House; there you will see the 3. <i>Systems</i>  of the World, according to the severall <i>Hypotheses</i> of <i>Copernicus, Tycho Brache,</i> and <i>Ptolomeus,</i> represented in Motion. </p>

<p>If You be desirous to learn <i>Chymie,</i> You may cause Monsieur <i>Marchant</i>  address You to Monsieur <i>Barlet;</i> He lives <i>au College de</i> Cambray, and uses to teach Courses; It will cost you ten Crowns for the Course, and two Crownes for his Book; He demonstrates from two a clock in the Afternoon till five, and finisheth his course in three weeks. I think it might be worth your while, in regard you will hardly find the like Occasion any other where.</p>

<p>I need not say any thing of the Booksellers, being they are obvious <i>A la Rue St.</i> Jaques; for new Books at the Palace; for <i>French</i> Books, as <i>Romances,</i>  &amp;c. <i>A la Place de</i> Sorbone; as also at the End of the new bridge about <i>nostre Dame</i> church, also at the postern Gate of the Palace and upon the Mont <i>St. Hiller,</i> for old Books of all Sorts.</p>

<p> 12 Remember to cause Monsr. <i>Marchant</i>  show You a maker of Mathematical Instruments that lives <i>dans l'Isle du Palais au Key qui est vis a vis la valle des Miseres,</i> and enquire for the designing Instrument; about the same place also you may be provided of <i>Microscops</i> of al sorts; If You desire to have your own, or any other Picture done: enquire for Monsr. <i>Ferdinand, Paintre sur la Fosse an Fauxbourgs St. Germaine proche l' Academy de Monsr. du</i> Plessis, but make your bargain before Hand. </p>

<p>It will be worth your while to see some places about <i>Paris,</i> as particularlie,</p>

<p>1 <i>Maisone,</i> a very delicat House, belonging to the President of <i>Maisone,</i> &amp; standing upon the River of <i>Saine,</i> some 4. Leagues from <i>Paris;</i> From hence you must go two Leagues up the River, to</p>

<p>2 St. <i>Germaine,</i> A House belonging to the King; from thence four Leagues further a little off the River, to</p>

<p> 3 <i>Versaile,</i> A House begun by the late King, but finished by the present; It is a most delicate fine place, but (as I think) 13 there will be a Necessity of procureing an Order from the Superintendent of the House (who ordinarly resides at court) to the <i>Cons[...]erge</i>  of the House to show the same to you; From thence to </p>

<p>4 <i>Rue[...]e,</i> You have about two leagues: it is a prettie little House built by Cardinal <i>Richlieu;</i> The G[...]rdens are exceedingly prettie, and the Water-Works the best in <i>France;</i> From thence You may come to</p>

<p>5 St. <i>Clou,</i> A House belonging to the present Duke of <i>Orleans;</i> From thence on your way to <i>Paris</i> (which is not above 3 Leagues) You pass thro' a wood called <i>Bois de</i> Bologne; in which there stands a House called <i>Madrid,</i> built by <i>Francis</i> I. after His Return from <i>Spain</i>  where He had been Prisoner, to save his promise of going back to <i>Spain</i> once a year. In my time there was a Manufactorie for weaving of Silk Stockings kept there.</p>

<p>Having performed this Journey in one or at the most two days, you may with your conveniencie visit</p>

<p> 6 St. <i>Denys,</i> in the <i>Abbey</i> whereof there 14 is a famous Treasurie kept. Remember to take Nottice of <i>Charles</i> the Great's Crown, in which there is a <i>Rubie</i>  of the Bigness of a Pidgeons Egg; A large <i>Cup</i> of oriental <i>Aggat,</i> which they count much of; One of the Nails that fixed our <i>Saviour</i>'s Bodie to the Cross, sent to <i>Charles</i> the Great by <i>Constantine</i> V. Emperour of <i>Constantinople;</i>  One of the <i>Potts,</i> wherein our Saviour changed the water into wine at the Marriage of <i>Cana</i> in <i>Galilee;</i> The Pucel of <i>Orleans</i> Sword, wherewith she overcame the <i>English;</i> The Lantern that was carried before <i>Judas,</i> when He betrayed our Saviour; and a thousand other things of great Value. See the <i>Tombs</i>  likewise: You will do well to go earlie in the Morning that you may have time to speak to the Religious Men, and take their Hour of conveniencie for seing of the Treasure; which being done, you will have time enough to return to <i>Paris.</i> </p>

<p> 7 I know nothing better worth your seing about <i>Paris,</i> than the <i>Aqueduct</i> at <i>Arcqueul</i> about 2 leagues from the town, it was built by <i>Mary</i> of <i>Medices</i> in the 15 time of her Regencie, for bringing the the water to her palace of <i>Luxemborg.</i>  Besides the Aqueduct, you will also see there a verie fine Grotto with fine walks and manie prettie Jetts of water; one afternoon suffice for this Journey. </p>

<p>8. <i>Fountainbleau,</i> in which there are so manie things considerable: not only in the House, furniture, and painting; but also in the Gardens, Walks, <i>Fish</i>-ponds, and water-works, that it will be less trouble for you to observe them by seing, than by a long narration; I shall only tell you for the better improvement of your Journey thither that you will doe well first to go to</p>

<p>9. <i>Esson</i> a House seven leagues from <i>Paris</i> belonging to a private Gentleman, where you will see very fine water works and many other prettie conceats; from thence you have 3 leagues</p>

<p> 10. To <i>Durance,</i> a privat House likewise, but to which there belongs very noble gardens and walkes, with delicat Ponds and Jetts of water. It will not be a miss to stay here all the night, being 16 You will have 4 Leagues to <i>Fontainbleau,</i> a great part of which is through the Forrest, and therefore better to be gone in the morning, when the day is before Your hand, than in the evening when night may surprize You. </p>

<p> 11. You may arrive so early in the morning at <i>Fountainbleau</i>  that You may have time to see all before dinner, and thereafter returne to <i>Veau,</i> a most stately house and gardens correspondent to it, built by Monsr. <i>Fougues[...],</i> but since his disgrace it's fallen to the King: From hence you may returne a short League off your way to lodge at <i>Melun;</i> The next morning You will have an easie Journey to <i>Paris,</i> and time enough if you please to see <i>Vinceu,</i> within two short Leagues of <i>Paris.</i> It is a House belonging to the King in the middle of a verie pleasant Park: after you have seen the House emember to see the Wild Beasts that are kept not far from it. If You resolve upon making any greater toure into the counrey, I shall advise You to provide a Book called <i>le voyage de France,</i> of the latest 17 edition, which will give you a hint of the most considerable things that are to be seen in those Places you go to. I shall deferr any thing I would say further, untill I be happie to hear of Your safe arivall at <i>Paris,</i> and then I would be content to trouble you with an other sheet: in the mean time I pray for Your happie journey and safe returne. </p>
 </br>

<p><B>[Postscript starts here]</B> </br> Sir,

<p>I intreat You to signifie to Mr. <i>Hannay</i> as also to Mr. <i>Cranston</i> that if they have any thing to send to me, You will be pleased to take charge of it; I shall beseech You likewise to do the same by Monsr. <i>Marchant</i>  at <i>Paris.</i></p> </p>
 </br> 
 </br> </br> 
 19 </br> <H4>LETTER II.</H4> </br> <H4>Containing Advice for makeing the grand Toure of France, with an Account of what is most observable relateing especially to the Natural History and Antiquities of that Kingdom.</H4>
 </br> Sir,

<p> IT seems You are not yet resolved whither to spend the Winter in <i>Paris</i> or in the Country, my opinion is that out of <i>Paris,</i> there is litle thing either to be seen or learned in all <i>France;</i> But in regard it is pertinent for a Traveler to see some thing of the countrie as well as the chief Town: I shall therefore advise you to see those Places chieflie that I judge most suitable to your inclinations, and particularie in order to <i>Botany,</i> that is <i>Languedock</i>  and <i>Provence,</i> for altho' there be manie other places of <i>France</i> verie worthie the [...]eing, as particularlie the River 20 <i>Loyre</i> from <i>Orleance</i> downward to <i>Nantes,</i>  which for the fertilitie aud beautie of the countrey, the frequencie of good Towns and gentle disposition and Courtesie of the inhabitants, is called the Garden of <i>France:</i> yet you will find that Climate produces but a few things different from <i>Normandy</i> or the <i>Isle</i> of <i>France:</i> But if you should incline to see it, my advice is that you should not spend much time in doing of it, and therefore if you think fit you may make use of the following Advice at your Discretion. </p>

<p>
 I suppose You leave <i>Paris</i> about the beginning of <i>June</i> (for I would not have you loose the Month of <i>May</i> in the Kings Garden, in regard most things will be then, or a little before, in their Prime, which now that the Garden of <i>Blois</i> is no more in Condition, is undoubtedly the best you are like to meet with) and therefore, 1. you may go to <i>Orleans</i> by the Messenger: it is but two Days Journie; Lodge <i>Chez Monsr.</i> Ogilbie, <i>sur l'[...]stape au Roy de la Grand</i> Bretaigne; A Day or two will serve you to see all 21 that is considerable in the place; It will be worth your while to see a place some two Leagues from the City, called the <i>Source,</i> where in the midst of a fair green Meadow you will see a Spring of Water so plentifull, that it is navigable from its Head, and powrs out a River called <i>Loirette. 2ly.</i> From <i>Orleans</i> to <i>Blois,</i> they count 15. Leagues, yet it is but a short Days Journie: besides if you please, you have the Commoditie of the River to go by Boat; Be pleased to take Notice of a place by the Way, some 4. Leagues from <i>Blois,</i> called St. <i>Die,</i> where the best <i>Claret</i> in that Countrie grows, and is ordinarly to be found. <i>Blois</i> of itself is no very considerable Town, yet it is famous for makeing of <i>Watches,</i>  for the Civilitie of the People, for the Sweetness of the Air, and Puritie of the <i>French</i> Language. You must stay there some Days till you have seen the following Particulars; <i>viz.</i> in one day you may get to <i>Chambort,</i> a house belonging to the King, some three leagues off, on the south side of the River, and South-East from the Town; It is said to 22 have been built by King <i>Francis</i> I. and is a very statelie House, though of a far different Order of <i>Architecture</i> than what is now used. From thence you may go to <i>Herbeau,</i> 3. Leagues to the southward of that, a privat house belonging to a Gentleman that beares the title thereof. It is a very pleasant seat having very fine Gardens with an Orangery, Fish-Ponds, Woods, Maille and Meadowes belonging to it; from thence you may go to <i>Bean-Regard</i> another privat house, where amongst other prettie things you will see a fine Gallerie well ornamented with the pictures of such persons as have been illustrious for some age; from thence you returne to <i>Blois</i> at night, &amp; as you go and come you will have occasion to see that part of the forrest of <i>Blois</i> that lyes to the South of the River and town; as also a litle village called St. <i>Gervais,</i> famous over all that countrey for excellent Cream; being returned to <i>Blois,</i> you may take notice of the Castle, as also of the Garden which is now <i>Seges ubi Troja;</i> the keeper of it is Dr. <i>Brumer</i>  23 my very good acquantance, and sometimes one of the Herbarists to the late Duke of <i>Orleans,</i> as were also Monsr. <i>Morison</i> and Monsr. <i>Marchand;</i> upon any of whose accounts or yet upon mine, I am confident You will be very welcom to him; I believe You may as yet see some Plants in the Garden, from thence walk towards the <i>Capucins</i> or the mount, and you will have a delicat prospect both up &amp; down the river; from thence walk towards the <i>Alleys</i>  which you will possibly find to be the finest in length and breadth, and being well planted on either side, that you have hitherto seen; You may chuse whither You will see <i>Vendosme</i> or not, it being a place not verie considerable except for the Holy Tea[...]e, which is preserved in the Cathedrall Church with much veneration, and which people go to see out of devotion; the toun is famous for makeing of Gloves which are accounted the best of that countrey; upon the returne from that place You may see the Fountain of <i>Orchaise,</i> of old <i>Horrcum Caesaris</i> (for some where not far from thence 24 the <i>Roman</i> legion was said to be quartered) <i>I</i> take the fountain to be nothing else but a rivulet or litle burn falling over the Top of a soft Rock into which by process of time it hath cut in a considerable way thro' the whole deepth of it, and being grown together upon the Top, it seems now to spring out of the Rock; over against that, cross a meadow, you must take notice of a Cave or Hole digged in the side of a litle hill in which there is an Aromatick kind of Earth, not much inferiour as is believed to the <i>Terra Sigillatae</i> of <i>Lemnos;</i> the common people call the place <i>La cave de la terre Sigille.</i>  </p>

<p> And here I must put you in mind that in this same meadow I have very often seen very large green <i>Lizards,</i> which because it is a beautifull creature and not found with us, I must intreat you where ever you find of them to cause preserve 1 or 2, to add to my <i>Tradescants.</i> I know not which will be the best way of preserving them, whither by skinning them, or drying the flesh, but I suppose the best way will be (especially if the skin be any 25 thing strong) to cause skin them, preserving the head feet and taile, and then stop the Skin with Flax. There are likewise severall other Birds in <i>France</i> which are not common with us, which I must earnestly intreat you to do the same by, as for example the <i>Pie verte</i> or Green Pyet, <i>&amp;c.</i>  </p>

<p><i>3ly.</i> from <i>Blois</i> you go to <i>Amboise</i> in half a day by water; the boat will give you libertie to see the Castle; in the Chapell whereof will be shown You hanging a pair of Hornes, they say, of a Hart, the largest and biggest (if they be true) that ever was seen In the court of the Castle there is likewise to be seen a Rib, and one of the Back-Bones of the same <i>Animal,</i> You are brought out of the Castle by a Toure whose descent is so large and so easie, being without Steps, that a Coach may drive from the Bottome to the Top thereof. From thence You go <i>Tours</i> all Night, where</p>

<p> <i>4ly.</i> In my time the best Lodging was <i>A la</i> St. <i>Marthe;</i> the place is commended for the Sweetness of it's Situation, the 26 delicacie of it's Fields and Gardens, and many other Particulars. It will be worth Your while to see the Manufactories of Silk, especially the way of working Tissenes, and Brocarts, which You will see of diverse Colours and some of Gold and Silver. The invention and way of making Tabbies, which I forbear to descrive, because You will abundantly discover it by sight. You must be at the pains to fetch a walk out of town a litle way to see the <i>Maille,</i> which in any time was the longest and in the best order of any in <i>France;</i> and at the same time, you may go the length of the <i>Minims Convent</i> because the first instituter of their Order St. <i>Francois de paul,</i>  lyes Buried in the Church in a marble <i>Coffine,</i> as will be shown You, which People visit with great Veneration: if you will be at the pains to pass the River there is an ascent to the <i>Capucins</i> whence you may discover the whole City, and a great part of the Countrey about, which for it's Beauty and Fertility is called the <i>Gardin</i> of <i>France.</i> and certainly deserves that Name better than any Place upon 27 the whole River of <i>Loir.</i> There is likewayes not far from <i>Tours,</i> a Place which they call <i>la cave Gutiere,</i> From the Top of which there drops a Liquor which Congeals into a substance almost as hard as a stone not much unlike that you sent me from <i>Hamiltoun.</i>  </p>
<p> <i>5ly.</i> You may go from <i>Tours</i> to <i>Saumure</i> a town famous for it's Protestant University, of which we have two very honest countrey-men that are members, Monsr. <i>Doule</i> and Monsr. <i>Gray.</i> You may take the pains to see <i>Nostre damo d' Ardeliers</i> a Place of great devotion; if you please you may see the Treasurie which is Rich, and as you go and come, you may observe the great Trade of that Suburbs, to be making of Beads or Chaplets; I beseech you forget not to bring us some that are made of young Oranges: If you please you may see the Castle. At <i>Saumure</i> you must hire Horses to make a litle tour of three days, and first you must go to <i>Doue,</i>  where there is to be seen an ancient <i>Amphitheatre</i> cut out 28 of a Rock, as it is said, by the <i>Romans.</i> There are likewise verie many great quarries of free stone and the Workmen often find in cleaving of the stones, some litle peices of a finer and harder substance by farr than the rest, which from the shape they have, They comonly call <i>Langues de Serpents.</i> The little Boys for a small matter will sell you abundance of them which I pray forget not to buy, If not for your own, at least for your friends curiositie. From thence you must go to <i>Thouars,</i> a most delicate House belonging to the Duke of <i>Tremoville,</i> it is situat upon a Rock, and the greatest part of the office houses cut out of the Solid Rock. The next Morning you go to <i>Waren,</i> a verie prettie House but not much worth the pains of seeing were it not in Your way to <i>Richlieu,</i>  where you are to spend the rest of that day, That you may have the more time to view the Toun and House, which I think so well worthie your seeing, That for it's sake a Journey from <i>Paris</i> that length were not ill bestowed. I shall say no more of 29 of it, that I may not deprive you of the <i>Gusto</i> of being surprized with the Beautie of it. Amongst other things be pleased to take notice of two Marble statues that stand over the Gate, at the upper end of the inner Court, as also of a peece of painting in the Chapell, that was left by way of Legacie to the <i>Cardinall</i> by Monsieur <i>de Mont Morency,</i> when he was Beheaded at <i>Thoulouse.</i> There are two Books the one in 40. the other in 80. containing the Figure of the House, and parts thereof; they are sold, as I take it, by the Porter, of whom I intreat you to buy them for me. </p>

<p> The third day you may Dine at <i>Loudun</i> where in my time there was a Religious Woman, that had been formerly Possessed. At the time of her cure which they say was Miraculous there was found Written on her hand <i>JESVS MARIA JOSEPH,</i> which still remained indelible. If she be yet alive you May see it. From thence you returne by <i>Shinon,</i> where they say the famous <i>Francis Rablais</i> had his first breeding in an old convent, 30 From thence you pass throw Most delicate Meadows called the <i>Valey</i>  of <i>Shinon,</i> and in your way to <i>Saumure</i> some three Leagues from the Town you may see a Monasterie of Religious Women whereof the Lady <i>Abbas</i> in my time was the Queen-Mothers Sister of Great <i>Brittain.</i> </p>

<p><i>6ly.</i> You may hire horses to <i>La Fleche,</i> where the only thing considerable is the <i>Jesuits</i>  Colledge. It is a most noble Structure, and by far the best they have in France. Take Particular notice of their Church where the heart of <i>Henry</i> the <i>4th</i> who gave them that House is kept: The Bibliotheck: The Theatre-hall: their Office houses, particularly the Kitchen; the Bake-house, where one Man and a Dog makes bread for all the Colledge every day: the Myln where the Water that moves the Wheele doeth likewise move a Pump that furnisheth water to the whole Colledge. The best lodging was <i>Au quatre Vents.</i> From hence you must again take horse to <i>Angiers.</i></p>

<p> <i>7ly</i> It is a Town famous for the Profession of Laws, and hath likewise a 31 Faculty of Physick: See the great Church called St. <i>Maurice,</i> and therein one of those pots in which our <i>Saviour</i> converted the water into Wine at the Marriage of <i>Cana</i> in <i>Galile.</i>  See the <i>Maill,</i> and at the end of it next the town the <i>Minims Convent.</i> You will find in their Garden severall Kinds of <i>Ilex;</i> You will likewise find in severall places of the Countrey not far from the Town severall sorts of <i>Pinastres,</i> as also a kind of Fruit tree called <i>Cormes,</i> not mnch unlike our Raun-tree, the Fruit whereof hangs in Clusters like our <i>Roddens:</i> but of an other colour, and bigness every one being as big as a Plumb. A League or two from the town towards the East, are the <i>Pierries</i> or quarries, of blew Skleat called <i>Ardoise</i> which serve the greatest part of <i>France:</i> See the Castle, and in it that famous crib where <i>Rene</i> King of <i>Sicilie</i>  and Duke of <i>Anjou</i> imprisoned his Queen out of Jealousie all the days of her life. About half a League distant from the town, doun the River stands a Convent called <i>Bamet,</i> worthie of seeing; 32 there is likewise on the other side of the River an old Abbacie called <i>Les Bons Hommes,</i> near to which there is a litle lake, which I suppose to have been the place where the blew Sklate was dug of old; you will find about the sides of it, aboundance of <i>Tribulus aquaticus,</i> the Fruit thereof is ripe in the Moneth of <i>August;</i> they use to Boyll them and Sell them as they do <i>Chasnuts,</i> from which they differ not much in Tast or Quality, but verie much in Figure, and therefore be pleased to provide a Quantitie of them for your self and Friends. You may likewise dry the Plant, if you think fit. </p>

<p> <i>8ly</i> You May go If you please from <i>Angiers</i> to <i>Nantes</i> either by Water or by Land, in one day; It is a prettie town and stands upon the <i>Loir</i> and the Sea flowing up above the town gives Commodity to Ships of a considerable Burden to come up to the Town. It is here that the greatest part of the Wines that grow upon this River or near to it, together with the Brandie made thereof, which are carried out of <i>France,</i> are Imbarked. 33 You must return again to <i>Angiers,</i>  and from thence to <i>Paris</i> with the Messenger. It is a Journey of five days, and all that I know considerable in it, is first, That when You come near to <i>Mans</i> (which you will leave at a Leagues Distance, upon the Le[...]t Hand) You will find in aboundance a Kind of <i>Cistus,</i> not mentioned by any that I know of, except <i>Petrus Bellonius.</i> Forget not to preserve a Branch or two, which You may Fold in your <i>Portefoile,</i> which for such rancounters you'l do well to be stil Provided of, and You may cause make them of what Bigness You please, and have them furnished with <i>Gray Paper</i> within. I did allways use to Carry one of a 40 Form, with good Tyers to it in a <i>Carpet</i> Bag (such as they use in <i>France</i>) tyed to the Tore of my Saddle, so that if it was My Fortune to Meet with any thing by the Way worth the Gathering, I could easily take it and preserve it with out being in Danger to Loss my Companie. <i>2ly.</i> The Town of <i>Chartres;</i> in the great Church whereof (which is a 34 most stately Fabrick) K. <i>Henry</i> IV. was Sacred. It is a Place of great Devotion, and there is kept in it amongst other Relicts, one of our <i>Ladys</i> smocks. You wil meet with several litle shops near to the <i>church,</i> where the chief Trade is <i>Beads,</i>  and as they call them <i>des Chemises de Chartres,</i> which Devout People Buy and append to their Chaplets, and then get them to Touch the Relicts, according to the Custom. </p>
<p> You may furnish this Journey, and have Time enough at <i>Paris</i> to Prepare your Self for the Journey to <i>Provence</i> and <i>Languedock</i>  before the <i>Dog-Days</i> be ended, at which Time it will be fit to begin your Journey. And <i>1st.</i> You may take the Messenger to <i>Lions;</i> I think You must Pay about twentie Crowns; for the Journey is of nine Days; There are not many things considerable to be seen by the way; only take Notice <i>1st</i> at <i>Nevers</i>  of the Glass-Works, and <i>Faiance,</i> or white Lame-works, of which the best in <i>France</i> are here. <i>2ly.</i> At <i>Mouline</i> (where you will fall to Dine) [...]quire for the 35 monasterie where the body of Monsr. <i>de Monmorancy</i>  is in[...]erred, You may see a very stately Monument of Marble. The Town is famous for the Manufactorie of Knives and Scissers. You will not miss to be troubled with a company of Women, who wait upon the arrivall of Strangers, to show them quantities of this kind o[...] ware in hopes to Sell some. 3ly. Take notice of the Well of <i>Pouge,</i> the water is Alummous and boills up in great quantity, of a whiteish colour, as if there were meal mixed with it. 4ly. <i>Roane;</i> which is said to be the largest Bourg in <i>France:</i> they call that Bourg which is not incompassed with wall or ditch. The <i>Loir</i>  begins to be Portable here and cary Boats, But it's source is many Leagues higher. 5ly. <i>Mont tarare;</i> It is a very great Hill, and here You will find a change of the climate together with the change of Plants, which I leave to Your observation, and think it will be worth Your while at night to make a note of all those Plants that You meet with. Being arrived at <i>Lions</i> You must stay some 36 time to see the place, which altho' in regard of its situation amongst Hils and Rivers, it be somewhat unwholsome, the Air, being either too moist, or in Summer t[...]o hot; yet I look upon it as one of the best and most important Towns in <i>France,</i> both for the magnificknesse of the Buildings, the great tra[...]ique it hath with almost all Places of the World, to which the situation of it betwixt two Rivers, the <i>Soane</i> and the <i>Rhosne</i>  is no small advantage; for by the <i>Soane</i> it hath Communion not only with <i>Burgundie,</i> but also with the <i>Ocean;</i> for <i>Chalon</i> which stands upon the <i>Soane,</i> is but a days Journey from <i>Auxere,</i>  which stands upon the <i>Saine,</i> and that River you know disimbogues it self in the <i>Ocean</i> at <i>Haver[...]degrace.</i> By the <i>Rhosne,</i> it hath communion with the Mediterranean Sea, and consequently, with all the <i>Levant.</i> The <i>Soane</i> in Latine <i>Araris</i> is a Pleasant and very soft flowing River; the <i>Rhosne</i> is <i>Fluviorum Rapidissimus.</i> The people are very ingenious and dextrous in the matter of traffick and business, they 37 are likeways courteous &amp; human, your most convenient Lodging, will be <i>Auxtrois-Rois:</i> It is a good House and nea[...] to the place where the Messenger of <i>Paris</i>  arrives. As also to the Post-House. Remember to see the <i>Maisone-de-Villo</i> which without exception is the most stately in <i>France:</i> Take particular notice of its Fabrick, Statues, Paintings, and ancient Inscriptions, of which some are extant upon Brass, its Fountain's, courts, &amp;c. 2. See the great Church of St. <i>John,</i> and in it a most Stately and Curious Clock, upon the upper part of which, i[...]mediately before the hour strike, the blessed <i>Virgine</i> appears with the <i>Angel</i> before her, as she uses to be represented at the <i>Annunciation,</i> and within a little, a Cock upon the top claps his Wings and Crows, and then the hour strikes. There is likeways considerable in it, a Hand that points the minut of the hour upon the O[...]al, and altho' the parts of an Oval line, be not equally distant from the center yet the Hand which is fixed in the center, doth alwayes reach 38 that line and never exceed it, in the whole compase it maketh. <i>3ly.</i> There is an Old Monument about the midle of that <i>Fauxbourgh,</i>  by which the Messenger of <i>Paris</i> enters they call it <i>Tombeau-de-deux Amants.</i> It seems to be of <i>Roman</i> antiquitie. 4ly, See the Bishops House &amp; and Gardens, the great Place before it, the Bridge over the <i>Rhosne:</i> And in short consider the Avenues and Compass of the Town. </p>

<p>5ly. Forget not to take with you your Catalogue of Books, for there are many Booksellers in this Place, that have great Magazins of Books, and have great traffick with all <i>Germany, Swizerland</i> and <i>Italy,</i> and it is very like, you may come by Books here that you missed of at <i>Paris;</i> For so it happened to my self.</p>

<p> I must not omit in this place to tell you that it will be expedient, to draw your Money from <i>Paris,</i> to <i>Lions,</i>  either by Bill of Ex-change, or Letter of credit, upon some honest, substantiall Merchant, to whom yon must be sure to yet good Recommendation: By his means 39 you may return your Money, to any other place as you shall have occasion, and likeways be furnished with new recommendations as you desire; &amp; this way you may make your Money march from place to place, without fear or danger; and if you light upon honest Men the Exchange will cost you nothimg, unless it be from <i>Paris</i> to <i>Lions;</i> because of the disrance and that will not be above half a one <i>per-Cent:</i> Your Merchant at <i>Lions,</i> will be a convenient Steple for receiving your Letters, or any thing else, that you please to send from any other place, and to send it forward to <i>Paris,</i> to be keept for you. By them you shall give advice to receive it from the Carriers, or otherways to the Merchant, that returnes your Money to <i>Lions:</i>  But of these things I have said enough, for I doubt not that you are sufficiently informed of them already. </p>

<p> From <i>Lions,</i> you take Boat to <i>Avignion,</i> which is about fi[...]tie Leagues: if the River be not very low, which seldom happeneth, you would go near to accomplish 40 it, in two days and a half, or three at most. </p>

<p> You have to take notice of, by the way <i>1st. Vienne,</i> a little but ancient Town, five Leagues from <i>Lions.</i> See the forges where they make Sword-blades, the Haminers are moved by a Wheell which the Water turns, so that the Stroakes are both frequent and equall. The Town hangs upon the side of a Hill toward the River. 2ly. some nine Leagues from <i>Vienne,</i> there is an old Castle called <i>Le Maisone de Pillate,</i> the place is no otherways considerable than for having been the retreat of <i>Pontius Pilate,</i>  driven here, by, God knows, what accident. 3ly. <i>Valence,</i> a Pretie Town only considerable for its University. 4ly. <i>Le Pont-Sanct-Esprite</i> seventeen Leagues lower than <i>Valence,</i> the Town is not very considerable, but only for the Bridge, from whence it takes its name, and which at that place stands upon the <i>Rhosne;</i> that which renders the Bridge so considerable, is the breadth of the River, and Impetuosity of the current; for besides other small Rivers, both the 41 <i>Soane</i> and the <i>Isere,</i> a little before You come at <i>Valence,</i> and several others below that, loss themselves therein. </p>

<p> When you come at <i>Avignion,</i> You may lodge at <i>Louxenbourg.</i> The Town and Country belongs to the <i>Pope,</i> whose Legate resides in Quality of Governour. It will be fitting to stay here some Days, that You may the better take Notice of the following Particulars. 1. The Churches and Religious Houses. <i>2ly.</i> The Legat's Palace. <i>3ly.</i> The Situation, and <i>Avenues</i>  of the Town, together with the Walls thereof, which are high and stately, and it will be worth Your while to go about them in regard of the Occasion You will have to Herbarize, for here you will find many Plants that did not appear in any other part of your Journey. <i>4ly.</i> The <i>Jurie</i> or <i>Cantone</i> of the Town where the <i>Jewes</i> dwell, I advise You by all means if You can stay of a <i>Saturday</i> to see their <i>Synagogue</i> and manner of Worship, and if you be Curious and make Enquiry, You may possibly see a <i>Circumcision. 5ly.</i> You may hire Horse[...]  42 to <i>Orange,</i> which is but half a days Journie up the River. The Town and Principality belongs to the Prince of <i>Orange;</i> It is an ancient, tho' little Town; It was considerable in My time for the Castle, which was very Strong, both by Art, and by its natural Situation, which was so high, that from thence one might have discovered seven or eight Provinces about, at least some part o[...] them: the Town hath an [...]niversity tho' not very considerable; The inhabitants for the most part are Protestants. There are yet extant some Monuments of antiquitie, <i>viz</i> a Triumphal <i>Arch</i> a lttle without the Town, and some ruins of a Theatre within the Town, both of which shows something of the <i>Roman</i> Greatness, in Respect of Modern Times; The Coun[...]ry about is fertile, and there are whole [...]lds of [...]a[...]ron. I think it might be well worth the while to enquire about the best way of P[...]anting, cultivating, gathering and preparing o[...] it. Having seen these thing and Dyned, You return to Your Lodging at <i>Avignion</i>  the same 43 day. The next day you take Horses for <i>Aix,</i> which is about two days Journey or two days and a half a most. If You depart from <i>Avignion</i> early in the morning You will have time enough to see <i>Vauclus,</i> which is three Leagues from <i>Avignion</i> and then to go Dine at <i>Cavaillion.</i>  I look upon <i>Vaucluse</i> as one of the most considrable things I have ever seen: it is a fountain at the foot of a great Rock very Large and [...]f immense deepness, which poures out so much Water as to Move four or five Milnes about half a Mile below. It is observed that the Water Diminishes and increases according to the season of the Year. In rainy Weather it abounds most, and Yet when you consider the position of it, how much it is elevated above the plain, and what vast hills and Rocks are about it, It is not conceaveable with what other Water&#0183; it should have any communion. The River that comes from it tumbles over so many stones and Craigs; that it makes a noise like the <i>Catarracks,</i> and having neer three quarters of a Mile to 44 fall, it becomes exceeding swift before it arrive the Plain, and there divides it self in two, and incloses a litle Meadow in Form of an Isle, and then joyns again. The Water is so Clear, finding nothing among the Rocks to Defile it, that notwithstanding its Swiftness, yet it hinders not the grass to grow in it's bed. The Fiver is likewise recomended for excellent Trouts and Crawfish and it is agreeable to Reason they should be good that live in so pure streams; When You come the length of the Mil[...]s you must quite Your Horse, to walk up [...]o the <i>Sour[...]e,</i>  &amp; and for that [...] must take a guide, without which the way is not easie. As You go up you will observe upon the other side, in two other places, the Ruins of two old Castles, the one standing about a Musket shot higher than the other, in the uppermost whereof did sometimes live that Noble Philosopher, and Poet <i>Franciscus P[...]trarcha</i> and in the lower <i>Donna Laura</i> his Mistriss, in the praise of whose beautie and vertue he composed his most excelent <i>Triumfe d' Amore;</i>  45 a Monument that hath outlasted her familie, in which her Memorie is like to live as long as Wit and Learning continues in reputation. You may also in this place take notice of the Paper-Milns and consider that so usefull art of makeing Paper, and labour to informe yourself well of all the particulars that when GOD shall be pleased to return you, you may make it Practicable in your own Countrey. I am sure we want not Linnen rags in abundance which might be preserved for this use, and not thrown into the Dunghill's, were people put once in the right way. </p>

<p>From hence you go to Dine at <i>Cavaillion;</i> in the rest of the Journey to <i>Aix,</i> there is nothing considerable, only you have a River to pass by boat called <i>Durance. Aix,</i> is one of the most delicate Towns in <i>France,</i> It's the Capitall City of <i>Provence</i> and the seat of a Parliament. The streets are large, especialy one great street, the Buildings fair and stately, The City well watered and the Air very healthfull and Sweet.</p>

<p> 46 From hence you go to <i>Marseilles</i> in half a day, you may lodge at <i>a l' Aigle</i> or <i>al' teste noire.</i> You must resolve to stay two or three days at least, for the more commodious seeing and observing the following things. <i>1st.</i> the Harbory or Port, which is very spicious and deep, and exceedingly well guarded, having upon he entrie thereof to the Sea ward, which is very narrow, not only a chain drawn, but also a very strong Citidale, built within these seven or eight years, upon the one side o[...]  it, and an other [...]ort upon a litle Island within the Sea, at a leagues distance from the entrie, all which rendreth it most secure from the <i>Algiers</i> and <i>T[...]n[...]ies</i> Men of Warr and other Pyrats. <i>2ly.</i> the Cathedrall Church, which you may easily guesse to be very ancient, from the Modell and Architectu[...]e thereof. It was first extructed in the honor of <i>Digna</i> by the <i>Greek Phocenses,</i> who had a Colonie here. <i>3ly.</i> Take notice in the [...] before the Church upon the wall looking to the Sea, of nine or ten large Brass Guns, which use upon the 47 day of the Towns great Festivitie (which is sometime in <i>October</i>) to be loaden with Bull and discharged by so many of the best gunners of the Town, a[...]ter great Mass is ended, at a white mark placed on the Side of the hill, on the other side of the Harbour. He that shoots nearest the Mark is esteemed the best Gunner for that year. They begin to fire just as the <i>Arch-Bishop</i> comes out of the Church. Who having celebrated Mass in <i>Pontificalibu[...],</i>  returnes to his own Hous[...] accompanied with the Consul and chief Magistrats of the Place, and generally a[...]l the Gentlemen &amp; citizens of the best fashion, in their best apparell and a great consort of Musick. <i>4ly. Nostre dame de la gard,</i> a Castle upon the Top of the Hill to the Southward of the Town, in in the going thither, you will do well to bestow a whole day, and take with you a couple of Souldiers, from the Citidale, or else a Couple of other Souldiers armed at least with Swords, and let one of them cary a couple of botles o[...] Wine with bread and what else you think fit, 48 as provision for that day, the other may cary a Basket with you emptie, being thus accourted, you may Herbarize upon the way to the Castle, and put a litle quantitie of every Herb you find into your emptie basket, the better to judge of it at your return; as also of what Seeds you find you may put up some for your own and friends use, you may returne by the way of the Sea, and so Herbarize all thereabouts. It is a most excellent place for Varietie of Plants, amongst the rest take particular notice of the <i>Tarto[...]rair Massiliensium,</i> upon the Sea side you may likewise take notice, what Stones or shells, Mosses or any other naturall curiosities you can observe, &amp; if any be worth the preserving bring them along with you. <i>5ly</i> I would have you bestow half a day in a boat upon the Sea without the Harbour, but so as it be very calm, for then you will easily se the botom of the Water, especially where it is not very deep, because the Water hath no Motion of ebbing or flowing, and so you may possibly 49 light upon curiosities worth the gathering, for the taking up of which, you must provide Creepers, which the Seamen know how to use. <i>6ly.</i> Take notice of the situation Fabrick, and Avenues of the Town, especially some Shops upon the Shoare, where you will find many curiosities, especially from the <i>Levant.</i> I must recommend my self to you here, but especially for a good handsome Tree of red Corall; as also one of those that are black, but are not true Corall, and what else you think fit; I shall hold you good accompt, for all expenses; you may send them with your own things to <i>Lions,</i>  with Order to your Friend there to send them to <i>Paris,</i> to be received by your Factor and keept for you. <i>7ly.</i> The Place is commended for perfumes, sweet-Powders, <i>Franchipane</i>-Gloves, &amp;c. But there is great cheating both in the Prices and Quantities of the things; therefore take heed to your self, if you buy any of them: I did formerly forget to tell you that <i>Avignion</i> is famous for the same things, but especially for Gloves; whereof the Manufactorie 50 is very good; and Essences. But now I return to <i>Marsails</i> where <i>8ly.</i> Take occasion frequently to view the Fish-market, where you will not miss to see great variety of strange Fishes well worth the observing, and for that end I wish you to acquaint your self with the <i>Icones Piscium,</i> together with their description, by <i>Petrus Bellonius,</i> it is in a Long 80. and not very thick, &amp; therefore you may take it along with you from <i>Pari.</i> If any of these Fishes which are not common with us can be preserved or keept any way; as I doubt not but you will find inventions to do it, you will exceedingly oblidge us to bring them along with you, or send them as said is: Be pleased to enquire <i>ches les Espiciers</i> for a kind of Seed which they call <i>Graine d' Avignion,</i>  they sell it in great quantity to Dyers who use it for Dying Yellow; it is the <i>Lycium Gallicum Dalechampij;</i> It is a Shrub not common here, nor yet in the North of <i>France,</i> and therefore worth the taking notice of; I would have you bring us some quantity of the graine 51 for a Show about an ounce or so: But because I suspect, that which the Grossers sell is dryed; therefore I think it will be more profitable to search at <i>Avignion,</i> where it grows plentifully, for some that is better conditioned for your own use. In your herborization at <i>Marsaills</i> especially upon the Hill, amongst other rare Plants, you will find <i>Mypum Montis Ceti, sive herba terribilis Narb[...]n[...]nsium Lobelij.</i>  </p>

<p><i>9ly.</i> Take a view of the Country about <i>Marsaills</i> from some eminent Place, especially east from the Town, where the fertility is so great and the Country-Houses, and Gardens, so thick, that they use to call it the <i>Suburbs</i> o[...] <i>Marsaills,</i> and say merrily, that <i>Marsaills</i> and its suburbs is bigger than <i>Paris:</i> The great conveniencie of these Houses is to acc[...]mmodat the Citizens with a retireing Place, in time of Plague, as also to divert themselves in Summer, and to provide necessars for House keeping.</p>

<p> At <i>Marsaills</i> you must hire Horses to <i>Frayole,</i> which is some three dayes Journey 52 east ward toward <i>Neice;</i> In this Journey, besides the things of Pleasure you will see in this higher <i>Provence,</i> you will have the best herborization, almost all the way, that you can possibly desire; you must part from <i>Marsaills</i> early in the morning, that you may have the more time to herbarize by the way, &amp; that you may arrive in good time before it be Night at <i>Saincte Beaume,</i> a Place of much Devotion, and the greatest Solitude in the World. In the midle of a vast and terrible Rock, there is a great cave where St. <i>Maria Magdalen</i> did pennance for many years before her Death: it's now upon that consideration turned into a Chapell, with some few Rooms clacht up against the face of a Rock, like a Bird cage upon the side of a Wall, where some Religious Men (as I think <i>Jacobins</i>) keep the Place, and serve the cure in the Chapel every Day receiving confessions, &amp; giving the Sacraments to such as require them. There is a little kind of a chainge-house close to it, that provides Meat for Men and Horses, at 53 their own expences, but you mnst lye within the convent; in the morning you must take a Guide to the Top of the Craig, where there is an other Chapel of Devotion just in that Place where the Angels did use once a Day, to carrie the <i>Saincts,</i> from the cave to administer consolation to her. As you go and come you may herbarize, for the whole side of the Hill before you come at the Rock, is a Wood: Upon your Arrival at the convent it is expedient to give some little thing out of Charity, which I think is bestowed in maintaining the place. You will ordinarly find without the Chapel Door, some few little Merchants that sell Reads, and amongst other things, Silk-Cords of the just length and greatnes of the <i>Saint,</i> all which People use to buy and carrie in to the Chapel, there to touch the Statue of the <i>Sainct;</i> which l[...]es just in that Place, and in that Posture, that she used to do pennance in; you will likeways see within the Chapel a very Large Well of good Water, which they say did first spring there by miracle, for 54 use of the <i>Sainct.</i>  From hence you take Horses to <i>Sainct Maximine,</i> a little Town, in the great Church whereof, amongst other reliques, the Body of St. <i>Maximine,</i> Uncle to St. <i>Mary Magdalen,</i> &amp; sometimes Bishop of <i>Marsaills,</i> is preserved: If you please you may take this opportunity of seeing it, and there dyne, for it is a little out of your way to <i>Brignole,</i>  where you must lye the second Night, and the Day following you Dine at a Village called <i>Luques,</i> and then go to lye ae <i>Frayote,</i> or <i>Freust,</i> which you please to call it. Its a Town of <i>Roman</i> antiquity, of which there are yet some rests to be seen, as aqueducts, &amp;c. The Town is not otherways considerable at all; you will do well here, besides your own Guide that goes along with you to take another Man from the Town, with an emptie Basket, to wait upon you to the Hil, called <i>Astral,</i> about a League from the Town, where you will have one of the most pleasant Heborizations in the World: Amongst a great variety of Shrubs, Plants, and Trees, 55 you will find a great Number of <i>Arbutus,</i>  loaden with Fruit, of a most Beautifull aspect; yet, somewhat insipid to the taste, It may safely be eaten, but doth not much allure the taste. Several kind of Spinous Shrubs, amongst which <i>Acaeia Secunda Dioscorides</i> sive <i>Aspalathus,</i> when you come upon the Top of the Hil, upon the way to <i>Neice,</i> there is an <i>Inn,</i> where you may make a Shift for Dinner, and a little beyond it, upon the North-side of the Hil, you will meet with aboundance of Cork-Trees, <i>Ilex, Abics, Picca,</i> &amp;c. </p>

<p> I must give you notice here, that in this place, you are not, above two or three hours ryding, from <i>Cane,</i> a Village, upon the Sea-side, some eight or nine Leagues distant from <i>Neice,</i> where (were you to go to <i>Italy,</i>) you might commodiously hire a <i>Fel[...]oque</i> of two Oares a side for <i>Genova,</i> and arrive there in four or five days, <i>Ter a Terre,</i> that is Landing every Day to your Dinner, and to your Lodging, in some convenient Town: But I shall say nothing of <i>Italy,</i> untill I understand 56 from your self, that you have a design for it. </p>

<p>I shall therefore returne to <i>Astrate,</i> where having satisfied your self, with herbarizing you may returne to <i>Freiust;</i> loaden with Seeds, and Plants, and there consider them at your ease: From thence you may return to <i>Marseills</i>  in two days and so to <i>Avignion,</i> by the way of <i>Arles, Sainct Eloy de Cro[...] Tarascon.</i> At <i>Arles,</i> remember to see the entry into a great Passage all Vaulted, which they say goes under the <i>Rhosne</i>  to <i>Nismes,</i> &amp; was made by the <i>Romans.</i> At <i>Tarascon,</i> you will see on the other side of the River <i>Bea[...]caire,</i>  most famous for a very great Faire or Market, keept there once a Year, to which great Numbers of Merchants from many Places of the <i>Levant,</i> do resort.</p>

<p> From <i>Avignion,</i> you go [...]o <i>Nismes,</i> but you must part by times in the morning that you may have the conveniencie to see <i>Pont de Gard,</i>  which is one of the finest Peeces of Antiquity extant in the World. It is a Part of that A 57 Aqueduct, which the <i>Romans</i> built for conveying a part of the water of the <i>Rhosne</i> from the <i>Pont</i> St. <i>Esprite</i> to <i>Nismes,</i> &amp; because at the Place where the Bridge stands, the River <i>Gard</i>  runs low betwixt two Hills, there was a necessity of raising the Aqueduct so high as to level the Tops of these Hils, therefore it hath three Ranges of <i>Arches,</i> the lowermost are the biggest but fewest in number; they are likeways the broadest, for besides that they support the second row of <i>Arches,</i> they do likeways serve on the other side for a Passage and Bridge for foot, Horse&#0183; and coaches to the high-way: The second supports the third, which are not so high, but many more in number, on the Top of all is the Aqueduct five or six foot broad, and four or five foot deep, it is compassed with great Flag Stones on all sides, exceedingly well cemented together, insomuch that I beleeve it be yet very intire, except it be some few of the covering Stones that are broak and fallen away. </p>

<p> <i>Nismes</i> is some three Leagues, but 58 they are long ones, from the <i>Pont de Gard;</i>  And I must tell you, altho' the way you are to follow from <i>Avignion</i> to <i>Nismes,</i> by the <i>Pont de Gard,</i> be for the most part very barren, yet you will find the Weeds for the most part are, <i>Cistum ledum Narbonense, thime, lavender, Satureia, mirtles, timelaea, corranda, Smilax aspera, Lentiscus, Terebinthinus, Staebe Salamantica, caliculis argenteis B. Ilex, Sabina baccifera, Iunip: fructu majori, Cistus mas, Cistus faemina, thymum cephaloton</i> </p>

<p> Clematis, vel flammula repens, aespalathus&#0183; phyllarelea Folio non serrata, Jesiminum luteum bacciferum, Stellaria argente[...] Ambrosia campestris, datura simplici calice albo, aster attious foliolis ad florem rigidis, aster lunariae folio, flore trifolij. Jacea cianoides flore albo folio multifido, trifolium bituminosum, acarna lutea, Eringium luteum monspel: bicopsis flore carnec, Carduus Spharocephalus ceruleus, amaranthus viridis, campanula flore plumeo, attriplex non descript[...] Semine singulari 59 binis foliolis incluso, Linaria minor lutea, paliurus <i>and a great many more that I cannot remember of; but it will be well worth the while to take a Note of the Plants you find in every Place.</i> </p>

<p> At <i>Nismes</i> you must lodge <i>Aux Arenes;</i> you will see there a brave Amphitheatre built by the <i>Romans,</i> in greater integritie yet than any that ever I saw in <i>Italy,</i> the Stones of which it is built, as well as the <i>Pont de Gard,</i>  are of incredible Bigness, and altho' the things themselves be somewhat ruined; yet they show greater Statelynesse and Magnificence than any modern Building. There are some other remaine[...] of antiquitie about the Town which will be showen you. From <i>Nismes</i> you take Horses for <i>Mompellier,</i> which is a Days Journey from it; You dine at <i>Lunel</i> which is about mid-way, and because I have nothing to say of this Place, I shall intreat you to bring me three or four ounces of the Seeds of <i>palliurus,</i> for amongst other uses they 60 serve for, they are the best Bullets for Cauters that can be, but it is for an other use I would have them. </p>

<p>You will do well to stay some days at <i>Montpellier:</i> You may lodge at the <i>white Horse,</i> or otherways as you find your accommodation. It is a delicat sweet Town, the Streets well built, but narrow, because of the heats which are as great here as in any place of <i>France,</i> nor is it strange it should be so, being it is near upon the same latitude with <i>Rome.</i> You will do well to see the Physick Schools, there is some Curiosities to be seen in them. <i>2ly.</i> The Physick-Garden; in which you will find many excellent Plants; by making a little acquaintance with the Gardener, you may command what Seeds he has.</p>

<p> <i>3ly.</i> You will do well to make acquaintance with some of the Students or young Doctors of Physick, by whose means and in whose company you may see all the places about <i>Monpelier</i> that are fit for Herbarizing, as particularly <i>Magelon,</i> a little Island of the Mediterranean 61 Sea, lying within Sight of <i>Monpellier.</i> But by all means of the World, you must be sure to make a Journey ten or twelve Leagues from <i>Mompellier,</i> to a Place amongst the Hils, which for the great varity of Plants, that is found in and about it, is called <i>Hortus Dei.</i>  </p>

<p>You may likeways find some variety of Shells and productions of the Sea, to <i>Mompellier</i> and the Shoar, or Coast, which is near the Town.</p>

<p>I must not omit to tell you, that if you please to make a Collection of dry Plants, this is a very fit Place for it, both because of the heat which helps to dry them, both soon and well; &amp; also because of the Garden &amp; Fields, that abound with Plants, that are not common, &amp; likeways, because of the good occasion you have to send them in a Box, close packt up, (as you have seen mine) to <i>Lions,</i>  &amp;c.</p>

<p> In like manner, if you will make a Collection of Seeds, the best will be to keep them in their Seed-Vessels, and 62 write upon every parcell, that you may dispose of them afterwards according to your pleasure. </p>

<p> This I wish you to do in every Place, that afterwards when it shall please God to bring you safely to bring them home, Tho' you should not be able to raise them in this climat, yet you might have enough to know them by. Do not forget the Booksellers here, who may possibly have some of the Books you look for. I must desire one Favour of you in this Place, that You would be pleased to enquire after the <i>Psilothrum</i> or Depilatory Ointment, which they use in <i>Rome</i> in the Baths, and which I was so Unluckie as not to mind when I was upon the place. It you can find the Receipt, cause make some small quantity of it to try if it be Right, which you will easily know by this, that being rubbed upon any hairy place, within a little space, when you come to wipe it off, it takes the hair without burning or scalding the Skin; but if it either burn or discolour the Skin, it is not right. The 63 place is afterward to be washed with a little warm Water. I must likeways intreat you to be at ths pains to cause dry me a Viper or two, it will be enough to dry their Skins with the heads at them, stopped with Flax, or Cotton: but in no way must you medle with them your self, because there is Danger, but imploy one of those fellows that brings them to the Apothecaries, who for a small matter will do it. Some day or other, you may be at the paines to see <i>Frontiniague</i> famous for that generous Moschat Wine, called by the name of the place, you may Collation there, and Harbarize as you go and come. </p>

<p> When you are satisfied here, it will be fit to set forward to <i>Thoulouse.</i> You will see by the way, <i>1st. Pesenas</i> a Pretie Town, where it may fall you to Dyne, <i>Au tapis vert,</i> hard by the Town, there is a very fine House, with excellent Gardens, belonging to the <i>Prince</i> of <i>Condie,</i> it is worthy of your seeing. <i>2ly. Beziers; 3ly. Narbone,</i>  which is a very strong and well fortified Town, near upon 64 the borders of <i>Catalonia.</i> It hath communion with the Sea, by means of a little River, that runs through the Town. Be pleased to see the great Church, and in it a Peece of excellent Painting, representing the History of our Saviour's raising <i>Lazarus</i> from the Dead. Take likeways notice of the Organes, the great Pipes whereof [...]stand by the Pillar sides, at a great distance from the Organ roome, and have the Wind conveyed to them by a secret conduct; which tho' it be no difficult thing, yet it is not common. </p>

<p> From <i>Narbonne,</i> you have six or seven Leagues to <i>Carcassone;</i> They are two, <i>Ville</i> and <i>City;</i> the City stands upon a hight about half a Leagues distance from the Town: It is twice encompassed with Walls and Ditches, and is very strong, as being upon the <i>Frontiers</i>  o[...] <i>Catalonia.</i> The Town stands below in the Plaine, and is much larger, better [...]uilt, and better inhabited, &amp; Walled about with a more modern kind of Fortification. The Town is commended for 65 Cloath-works, &amp; making of Combs: The Tradesmen use to bring them to the Innes as soon as they understand any Stranger to be arrived; but your best will be to go to their Houses, and see all, &amp; try severals, for so you may best please your self, and make the best bargain too. There is of all Prices, insomuch that I have seen ten Pistoles refused for one single Comb, of Box-Wood. But indeed it was of a vast bigness and most curiously carved. You may have very good ones for three, foure, or five Livres a peece, as also some for 30, 40, &amp; 50 Solds. To be short, there is of all kindes and prices, and I shall earnestly intreat you, to bestow foure or five Crowns, upon some of the midle sort, that is next to the best, and some again of the next degree to them for me, (because of the carving) to add to my <i>Tradescants.</i> They must be packt up in a little wooden Box, which the Tradesmen know very well how to do. </p>

<p> From <i>Carcassone</i> to <i>Thoulouse,</i> you have twelve Leagues, viz. Foure to 66 <i>Vilpeinte,</i> two to <i>Castelna[...]&#0183; d' Arri,</i> two to <i>Vignonnet</i> and four to <i>Thoulouse.</i> The Second Town (in the opinion of some) in <i>France,</i> how justly, I leave to your self, when you shall see it. The Town indeed is very big, and well built, all of Brick; But not very populous, I think for the want of Trade, in regard it lyes farr from the Sea. Amongst other things, take notice of the following particulars <i>1st.</i> The Town House, in the Court whereof they Show you the place where the Scaffold was erected, that <i>Monsr: de Momorancy</i>  was beheaded upon, and some of his Blood yet Sticking upon the Wall. <i>2ly.</i> The Parliament House, into which (if it be sitting) you must neither carry Sword, nor Spurs, unless you make account to pay a Forfaulter. <i>3ly.</i> The Bridge over the River <i>Garonne,</i> which is very stately, built of Brick, somewhat after the Model of the new Bridge of <i>Paris,</i> having a Foot walk raised on every side, so that these that pass on foot, are not troubled with Coaches, Cairts, &amp;c. 67 that pass in the midle. <i>4ly.</i> In the convent (as I take it) of the <i>Cordeliers,</i>  there is a Peece of ground under a Chapel, belonging to the Church, wherein all Dead Bodies, that lye eight and fourtie hours, are so dryed, but without the consumption of any substantiall part, that they become incorruptible for ever thereafter. They will show you in a Vault, hard by the Chapell, some hundred of Bodies, standing about the Walls intire and dryed, as I have said, amongst the rest they show one bodie of a Woman, called <i>la Belle Paule,</i> Mistrels as it is said to some King, whose name I do not remember: But it is some hundreds of Years since she died, and yet me thinks there is a beautifull Proportion observable in her Face. The rest of the curiosities consist in Churches, religious-houses, &amp;c. which I leave to your self. </p>

<p> From <i>Thoulouse</i> to <i>Montauban</i> you about halfe a Dayes Journey, it is famous for the Protestant University; It stands somewhat high and declines 68 a little toward the Bridge, that stands over the <i>Tarne,</i>  which not far below the Town, casts it self into the <i>Garonne.</i> It hath many fine Fountains; but especially one, which they call the <i>Gri[...]one.</i> It hath good trafique, because of the situation betwixt <i>Thoulouse</i> and <i>Limoge</i> and <i>Paris,</i> as also because of the Commoditie of the River, to <i>Bourdeaux:</i>  the Town and Bridge are all built of Brick. It was formerly very strong, but because of its Rebellion is now Dismantled of all Fortification. </p>

<p>From <i>Moutauban</i> to <i>Bourdeaux,</i> you may go by Water in a very short Time, because the River is rapid; the Countrey about is very fertile and Pleasant. You will see by the Way, <i>Agen,</i> an ancient City, where <i>Iulius Scaliger</i> was Born: within 4 or 5 Leagues of <i>Bourdeaux</i>  stands <i>Cadiliac,</i> a most delicate <i>Castle,</i> belonging some time to the <i>Duke d' Espernon;</i> You must not faill to see them.</p>

<p> At <i>Bourdeaux,</i>  I did lodge <i>au Chapeau rouge;</i> but I have been told since, 69 that there are more commodious <i>Inns</i> in Town, which You may easily be addressed to. You will meet with severall of our Countreymen in this Place; But particularly, Sir <i>David Inglish,</i> and <i>Harie Iossy&#0183;</i> are of my acquaintance. And therefore, I must desire you to see them, &amp; permit this, to present them my service. I must likeways intreat you, to be at the pains, to enquire for a Doctor of Physick, of the Religion that lives here, whose name I have forgotten; but you will know him by this, that he hath written in French Something against Doctor <i>Willes de Febribus:</i> which I remember Sir <i>David Inglish,</i>  did once send me to <i>Paris.</i> And therefore, he may Probably know the Man: The Reason I desire You to speak with him, is, That you may learn from himself, what he hath Published, upon this or any other Subject; and whatsoever they be, I must intreat You earnestly, to buy them for me; for I have a very great Honour for the Mans Parts, tho' I know 70 not his Person; and I had the evil Luck to lend that Book, which Sir <i>David Inglish</i> sent me, to a Doctor at <i>Paris,</i> that did never render it me again. Remember to see in the Town, <i>1st. Piliers tutilarrs,</i> which are the Ruins of an Ancient <i>Roman Temple. 2ly.</i> The Ruins of an Amphitheatre, without the Town, of <i>Roman</i> Antiquity likeways. <i>3ly.</i> The <i>Cheasteau Trompette,</i>  in which there is a Garison keept by the King. It was pulled down by the Citizens, in the Time of their last Rebellion; but since re-built much better and stronger. <i>4ly.</i> The <i>Port,</i> which if you happen to see in the Time of Vintage, will be well furnished with Ships from all Places, and it may be from <i>Scotland. 5ly.</i> That peece of Ground without the Town, which they call <i>Grave;</i> which brings forth the best Wine about <i>Bourdeaux,</i>  and which for the most part is sold within the Town, at as great a Rate as ordinary <i>French</i> Wine gives with us: And therefore being there is no great quantity of it, and that it 71 would not turn the Merchants to Accompt to send it here, you may easily guesse how much <i>Graves</i> Wine We Drink in <i>Scotland,</i> altho' Our People are pleased to Flatter themselves, that all their Clarets are such; The rest I leave to others, to inform you of. I must only tell you, You will meet with as good Fruits here as in any place of <i>France, Des Treffices</i> in Latine <i>Tuberae Terrae,</i> they are found under the Ground by the Hogs, who use to smell them before they come at them, and by the noise and gests they make, give notice to their keeper, who presently puts them by, and Digs the <i>Trefice</i> for himself: They are in great esteeme, &amp; being Boyled and pared, use to be eaten by themselves with Pepper and Oyle, or else cut down with other things <i>en Ragoust.</i> There are likeways here a kind of small Birds but exceeding fatt, which they call <i>Ortolans,</i>  which are much prized for great Delicacies. </p>

<p> From <i>Bourdeaux</i> you go to <i>Rochelle.</i> In the way you pass by these Places; first 72 <i>Blay, Ville et City,</i> The City stands on a Hight and Commands the River. It was at this Place that of old the <i>English</i>  Ships were Obliged to liver their Canon, which were permitted the <i>Scots</i> (as a Priviledge) to keep a Board; as they passed to <i>Bourdeaux. 2ly. Xaintes</i> or <i>Saintes,</i> the Capital Town of <i>Xaintonge;</i> It stands upon the River <i>Charante;</i> here are some Rests of <i>Roman</i> antiquity, as of an Amphitheatre, &amp;c. But especially of an Arch, upon the Bridge over the <i>Charante,</i>  on which you will read this inscription. <i>Caesari nep: D. Iulij Pontifici A.</i> There is also an inscription, on the reverse which I remember not. You will see likeways here a Steeple, the Stairs whereof that lead to the Top are on the outside. <i>3ly. Brouage;</i> about half a Days Journey from <i>Saintes,</i> a little, but one of the most regularly fortified Towns in all <i>France,</i> in which there is a continuall Garison keept, as a Guard for the Salt, of which vast quantities is made here, by the heat of the Sun every Year in this manner. They let 73 in the Sea water by a [...], cut purposely in the ground into severall ponds, cut out likeways of purpose of a certain deepness: they fill them in the Summer time, and then stop the entries that no more water come in; when the Sun hath co[...]cted it enough, they gather it together i[...]  [...]eaps, and carry it to places appointed for it. The Town stands upon a little River which i[...] navigable, because the Sea flowes a good way above it, the Salt marshes about the Town, are little less than four Leagues about, &amp; render the Town by so much the more strong. You must be sure to arrive there at a good Hour in the day, for at Sun-setting the Gates are shut, and none whatsoever can enter. You must Salute the Governour, or in his absence, the Chief[...]Off[...]cer, and desire Libertie of him to view the Town, which he will readily grant you, and appoint a Souldier to wait upon you; from the Walls, you will discover the Marshes about the Town, and then he will bring you to the <i>Arsenal,</i> and there you will see their Magazine of Ai[...]s, and then having given 74 something to the Souldier to drink, you may thank the Governour &amp; take leave of him. This is all that is to be seen in this place except you make account to see the Isle of <i>Ol[...]rone,</i>  which lyes without the mouth of the little River, about a League or two in the Sea. </p>
<p>From <i>Brouage</i> you have seven Leagues to the <i>Rochell,</i> upon the Way to which you will have occasion to see a great many Sea-Plants, such as <i>Kali, Kali Spinosum, Salicornia, Cakeile S[...]rapionis, Papaver corniculatum luteum, Eringium Marinum, Crithmum;</i> with many others.</p>

<p>The <i>Rochel</i> is much more famous for what it was, than for what it is, It was the strongest hold, the Protestants had in <i>France,</i> but after the taking of the Town by <i>Lewes</i> the <i>13th.</i> the Walls thereof were quite demolished, so that scarcely the vestiges thereof remaine: the Harbour is considerable, for it enters within the midle of the Town. At [...]resent it hath a considerable trafique [...] Salt, white Wines, &amp;c.</p>

<p> 75 You must be at the pains to see the Isle of <i>Re,</i> about a League from the Town, but not above a quarter of a League from the Land. As you go from the <i>Rochel,</i> to the place where you are to take Boat to cross over, they will show you the Ruins of that Digue, which <i>Cardinal Richlieu</i> caused make by sinking of Barks, loaden with Stones, to hinder all relief for the Town by Sea, and it was observeable, that the very day after the Town surrendered, the Digue was broke down by Storm, which if it had done but three days sooner, it may be justly questioned whether the Town had ever been taken, especially seeing the <i>English</i> Fleet was ryding before the Isle of <i>Re.</i>  </p>

<p> In the Isle of <i>Re,</i> there is a <i>Citadale,</i> near to which you will be put a Shore upon the Island, but it is not usual to permit Strangers to enter into it. At the east end of the Island, there is a little Town called St, <i>Martines,</i> in which there are many <i>Dutch</i>  Families, because of the great trafique the Dutch hath with 76 this place, for Salt and white-Wines. The Island is generally of a Sandie Soil, and only made fertile by the Sea-<i>Ware</i> which they throw upon it, and which in my Opinion is the cause, that all the Wines both of the Island and about the <i>Rochel</i> tast brackish, especially when they begin to be old. You will find amongst other Plants upon the Island aboundance of <i>Pancratium,</i> except you come in the latter Season of the Year, when probably it may not be found. You may returne at Night to the <i>Rochelle,</i> from whence you have a Messenger to <i>Paris,</i> upon the way to which there is nothing that I need to trouble you with, except <i>Poictiers,</i>  that I have not seen my self, and therefore can say nothing of; From <i>Poicteirs</i> your way is to <i>Amboise</i> midway betwixt <i>Tours</i> and <i>Blois</i> of which before. </p>

<p>
 I must advertise you here, that if you please you may make this <i>Tour</i> an other way <i>viz.</i> To <i>Nantes,</i> as in the former advice concerning the <i>Petit Tour,</i> as far as <i>Nantes,</i> from thence to the <i>Rochell, 77 Bourdeaux, Toulouse, Narbonne, Montpellier, Avignion,</i> and so all the rest throw <i>Provence;</i> and then back to <i>Avignion,</i> from whence to <i>Lions,</i> and so to <i>Paris</i> with the messenger, or coach, which you like best. For your better understanding in the Country, it will be fit to carry a Map, or <i>Carte</i>  of <i>France</i> along with you, to look upon the situation of every place as you pass, for doing of which a litle time will suffice once a day. Let it be illuminat for the more easie discerning the different counties and their bounding. You will do well likewise to carrie a Book with you in 80. called <i>Le Voyage de France,</i> which will inform you of many particulars, that either were not at all seen and observed by me, or else have escaped my Memory; and indeed it is no great wonder if they have, having been so lazie as not to make any <i>Memoire</i> of them whilst they were yet recent in my mind. And this is one Reason of the tumultuarinesse and disorder of this Letter, but I am well pleased to think, that by the amendements 78 you will make both in seeing, observing, and writing down all things more particularly, we shall have occasion afterward to put the Voyage in a better Dress; I must likeways beg your Pardon for not having writen to you sooner, having been several times called out of Town since I began to write this Letter: If you find it tedious in reading, blame your self for being the cause thereof, and be the more patient, in regard I shall not have occasion to be any more so tedious, unless you go for <i>Italy,</i> and give me a timeous advice of your Intentions. </p>

<p>
 I shall conclude all with my best wishes for your health &amp; happy Return, &amp; most earnestly intreat you not to grudge us with the effects of a Spare hour, that seeing at this distance, we cannot be so happy, as to enjoy you personally; we may at least by this next best way entertain a Correspondence, which I assure you will be a great Kindness to your Friends here, but to none so much as 79 to my self who cannot be indifferent in any thing, that concernes you, And therefore cannot but be sollicitous, to hear often from you, as the only thing, that can supply the want of your person, So much desired and longed for, by &amp;c. </p>
 </br> </br> 
 81 </br> <H4>LETTER III.</H4> </br> <H4>CONTAINING Advice for Travelling into ITALY.</H4>
 </br> <H4>Written to a Friend</H4>

<p> IT is much better to go into <i>Italy</i> in the latter end of <i>Autumn,</i> than in the <i>Spring;</i> Because the Change of the Air is not so much from one Extreme to another in that Season, as in the other; for the Mildness of the Winter in <i>Italy</i>  (especialy upon the <i>South</i> side of the <i>Appennine</i>) doth not so much recede from the Temperatness of <i>Autumn</i> in <i>France,</i> as the Heat of <i>Summer</i> in <i>Italy</i>  exceeds the Mildness of the <i>Spring</i> in 82 <i>France.</i> It is certain, that if a Man intend to stay but a half a Year, it is better to begin the Journey in <i>Autumn,</i> and finish it in the <i>Spring,</i> than to begin in the <i>Spring,</i> and finish it in <i>Autumn,</i> and so be obnoxious to the excessive Heats of Summer. If one intend to stay one or more Years, it is undoubtedly best to begin the Journey in <i>Autumn,</i> because the Winter, being much more clement than usually it falls out with us, will be easily supported, &amp; all the Heat that happens in the following Summer, in regard it comes by degrees, will not so readily affect the Body, that hath been already inured to the Air of the climate, for some Time before. </p>

<p> The most convenient way of making the Toure of <i>Italy,</i> (in my opinion) is to go through <i>Provence</i> to <i>Cane,</i> a small inconsiderable Town upon the <i>Frontiers</i> of <i>Provence,</i> and there to hire a Felluck to <i>Genoua,</i>  and, if you cannot get one at <i>Cane,</i> to go to <i>Nize,</i> which is but six or seven Leagues further, 83 where you will be sure to find one; a Felluck is ordinarily of four Oares, and hath this advantage that you go in it <i>Ter' a Terre,</i> that is so near the land, that in the case of any danger by Storm or otherwise, you may easily run on Shoar and escape it, and besides, land as often as there is any Town or other thing worthy the seeing, and likewayes ly a Shoar every Night, at some good Town or other. A Felluck will serve to carrie half a dozen of persons with ease, besides the Rowers: The Price is not fixt but more or less as the Fellucks happen to be more or fewer in number. Ours cost us about 11 or 12 Crowns, in regard there were but few at <i>Cane,</i> but you may chance to get one for 8, or 9. especially if ye be few in number and not much Baggage; You may provide every morning to take along with you, Wine and what Victuals you please, the rather because sometimes it will happen that you will have no conveniency of any Town about Mid-day, and therefore must Dine aboard Your Fellucke. </p>

<p>
 84 The first thing You will meet with, worthy the taking notice of, is <i>Nize,</i> a City belonging to the Duke of <i>Savoy,</i> it lyes near to the Sea syde, at the very foot of the <i>Alps,</i> and hath a very strong Cittadale belonging thereto: some two miles from thence stands <i>Villa Franca,</i> one of the best Ports in <i>Italy,</i> it belongs likewise to the Duke of <i>Savoy,</i> and is guarded with two Castles, one whereof stands on the top of a Rock, upon which growes in great aboundance the <i>Ficus Indica.</i> Some three miles farther upon the Coast stands the Town and Palace of <i>Monaco,</i> or <i>Morgues,</i> It is a Principalitie by it self, and hath very litle land belonging to it: The place is strong standing upon a Rock, which is not accessible, save at the side where the Palace stands, and where it joynes with the land, all the rest being compassed with the Sea. In the Palace they use to show 1. The Princes Wairdrob, in which there is good store of Silver plate, and other Rich furniture, 2. Severall rooms as Halls, Galleries, Chambers <i>&amp;c.</i> well 85 furnished with Hangings, Cabinets, Pictures, <i>&amp;c.</i> 3. A little Garden upon the top of the Rock, behind the Palace, made up of earth brought thither on purpose. At the foot of the Hill near the Town there are store of <i>Carobe</i> Trees, or <i>Siliqua Dulcis, Bauhini</i> in <i>Pinace.</i>  </p>

<p> I must not omit to tell You that you must be sure at your first leaving of <i>France</i> in the last Town that You happen to be in, whither it be <i>Cane</i> or any other, to get a Certificate of your health and freedome from the Plague, as also of the freedom of that Town. There are persons appointed in every place for giving of such Bills, or <i>Patents de Sainte,</i> as they call them. Their Subscriptions are known to the next Townes about, where you are to go, so that it is not easie to counterfit, and besides it were very dangerous to doe so; They are very scrupulous in this matter upon all the Coast of <i>Liguria,</i> for fear of contagion; So that when you arrive at any Town, before you go a shore, you must send one of your Boat-men, with your Certification to be 86 shown to such as are appointed for those matters in that Place, who immediately upon the Sight of the Bill permit you, <i>la Practica,</i>  that is Libertie to stay in the Town as long as you please, and do what you will. When you part from that, You must take a new Certificat to the next Place, and so of the Rest untill you come at <i>Ligorn,</i> where this niceness will end. </p>

<p> You must carrie with you no Secret Weapon, as Dagger, Pocket Pistols, or the like: And this is general all over <i>Italy,</i> except only in the Kingdom of <i>Naples,</i> and States of <i>Venice</i> and <i>Milan,</i> where it is permitted to wear Daggers. At most Towns in <i>Italy,</i> You will be oblidged to leave yonr Hulster-Pistols, and sometimes your Sword with the Guard at the Gate you enter in by: And then they will ask you, by what Gate you are to go out, and accordingly Your Arms will wait for you, which they will know to be yours, by the delivery of a Nick-stick given You as you enter, and which for that purpose, 87 You must carefully keep. In most Places, Strangers are permitted to weare their Swords. Your Cloak-Bag likeways will be visited at every Town, to to see that there be no Customable Goods in it, and if there be any Books, you must give up a List of them to the Visitor, or Inquisitor appointed for that end, and he will Signe it with Order to let them pass, Providing, there be no Prohibited Book amongst them, For if there were any such, it would be Dangerons; yet there are wayes enough to convey Books, or any other thing of whatsoever Nature, or Quality, from any Sea-port, without any Danger, which you will easily understand, after your being a while in the Country. </p>

<p>From <i>Monaco</i> you will easily reach <i>Oneglia,</i> which is at about twelve Miles distance, and about 5 Miles further <i>Albenga,</i> from thence you have seven Miles to <i>N[...]li,</i> &amp; ten more to <i>Savona,</i> from whence there rests five Miles to <i>Genoua,</i></p>

<p> All the Coast, of <i>Liguria,</i> from <i>Nize</i> to 88 <i>Genoua,</i> &amp; some days Journey beyond <i>Genoua</i>  towards <i>Ligorn,</i> is nothing but rude <i>Alps,</i> for the most part infertile and unhabitable, except towards the Bottom near the Sea, where there are little Smal Valleys here and there, both delicious and Fruitfull. For the rest it is wonderfull to see with what industry &amp; trouble, they have been able to place little smal Villages, as it were in the Clefts of the Hills, and Plant Olive Trees, where one would think nothing but crows could venture to Big. All this Tract is extreamly hot, especially in Summer, being directly opposit to the South, and altogether guarded from the North, So that the reflection of the Sun beames, makes a Heat almost insupportable. </p>

<p> <i>Genoua la Superba,</i> so called from the sumptuousness of its Buildings, and so they use to give other epithets to other Towns, as <i>Roma la Saneta, Fiorenza la Bella, Bolognia la Grassa, Padua la Dotta, Venetia la Rieta,</i> &amp;c. It is said that <i>Genoua</i>  has <i>Montagnie senza legno, Mare senze pesce, Donne senza Vergonia, 89 &amp; Gente senza sede.</i> It is a Republick &amp; the Government administred by a Senate. It is a City of great Trade and very Rich, and it is said they account usury no great Sin: It being their Maxim, that <i>Cento per Cento e Niente, Cento Cinquanto per Cinto e quelcha cosa, du Cento per Cento e quadagnio Hone[...]io.</i> You may take notice in the Place; First, of the Situation of the Town, and so you may Herbarize towards the West-side. <i>2ly.</i> The Senate House, <i>3ly.</i>  The Churches, and particularly that of St. <i>Lorenzo,</i> which is the Cathedrall, a Stately Fabrick Crusted with Marble. <i>4ly.</i> That famous Street, called <i>la Strada Nova,</i> which is composed of so many Palaces, most of them of Marble: you must by all means endeavour to see the most considerable Palaces. Within you will find them most delicatly Adorned with all sorts of fine Things, as Statues, Paintings, &amp;c. You must also see their Gardens, where besides severall sorts of Flowers, Shrubs, and Trees, you will likeways 90 find delicat Fountains, Fish-ponds, and Grotto's; as particularly in the Palace of the <i>Principe d'Oria;</i> I would likeways have you see the Palace of <i>Signior Baldi,</i> and some other Houses of Pleasure especially towards the Sea-port, where they stand at the foot of the Hill over looking one another as they mount in degrees in form of a Theatre, and all of them having a full view of the Sea-port, which is very spacious and very deep; but in my Opinion, not so very well guarded from stormes. That which I find most considerable in it is, the <i>Mole,</i> which secures the entrie thereof, it being the best and strongest and in the deepest Water I ever saw. At the east end of the port there is a litle Promontory called <i>Capo de Fara,</i> upon which stands a High Turret, which they call <i>la Lantern&acirc;,</i>  from the Top whereof they use to discover all Vessells at Sea at a considerable distance. <i>5ly.</i> Forget not to visit the Book-Sellers, but in Regard this is a generall Remark not to be omited, in every Town where there any, I shall 91 say no more of it here, but shall put You in mind of it now and then. </p>

<p>From <i>Genoua</i> You must again provide Your self of a Felluck to <i>Ligorn,</i> which you will find readier and at an easier rate, because of the more frequent Traffick and intercourse, than from <i>Cane</i> or <i>Nize,</i> you will pass by <i>Porta Fino, Leresi, Viaregia,</i> &amp;c. and you wil not find many things considerable more than I have already noted on the Coasts of <i>Liguria</i> betwixt <i>Genoua</i>  and <i>Nize,</i> except that when ye pass <i>Leresi</i> a litle, you begin to discover a large plain, part of which belongs to the state of <i>Genoua,</i> and therein are the Quarries that furnish all <i>Italy</i> with the best Marble, and the rest is the Principality of <i>Massa;</i> For the better seeing of which if you please you may go from <i>Genoua</i>  by Horse to <i>Ligorne.</i></p>

<p><i>Tuscany</i> begins about <i>Viaregia,</i> the greatest part whereof is under the Dominion of the Great Duke of <i>Tuscany.</i></p>

<p> <i>Ligorn</i> is no antient, but yet a very Handsom and well built City, by <i>Ferdinand</i>  the first, Great DUKE of <i>Tuscany,</i> of whom you will see a most 92 stately Statue or rather Colosse, with slaves Chain'd at his Feet, on each side kneeling; a litle without the Gate as you go to the Sea-Port. The Town is regularly fortified, they say, by the contrivance of the Duke of <i>Northumberland,</i> who was banished out of <i>England</i> in the Reign of Queen <i>Eli[...]abeth,</i> and well receaved and much esteemed by the then Duke of <i>Tuscany,</i> for his excellent parts and Qualifications. The Duke for incouragment of Trade hath granted great Immunities to Merchants of all Nations whatsomever, which is the great cause that the Town flourishes so much in Trade, and is so well Peopled: Severall Nations have established great Factories here, but especialy the <i>English</i> and <i>Hollanders</i>  who have made this place, as it were the staple of all their commerce into the <i>Levant.</i> The <i>Jews</i> also have a very great freedome here and are not distinguished by any particular Mark, as in other places, from other Merchants, but live Honourably in a particular Street of the Town, built by themselves, 93 yet not sequestrated from the rest of the Town by any Wall or Gate, as they use to be in all other places, where I have seen them. The <i>English</i> Merchants live very splendidly, and are very hospitable and courteous, especially, to their Countrymen, that Travell that way, under which name they comprehend all that are Subject to our King: The Jews <i>Synagogue</i> here is the best in <i>Italy;</i> and therefore worthy your seeing. They observe our <i>Saturnday,</i>  so that if You please to stay, You may see their form of Worship. You must take particular notice of the <i>Sea-Port,</i> which is undoubtedly the most secure and finest in all <i>Italy,</i> in which You will see the great Dukes <i>Gallies,</i> which he kee[...]s for a Guard, to his Countrey against the <i>Turks</i> men of War. It is worth the while to see a <i>Gallie</i>  put out to Sea, or, as she comes in, for so one may see the Discipline of the Slaves to whom the <i>Bosson</i> delivers the word of Command by the noise of a Whisle, the diversitie whereof they are as well 94 acquainted with, as Horse-men with a Trumper, or foot with a Drum. If You be diligent You may meet with severall curiosities, some naturall, some of Art, especially from the <i>Levant,</i> and all at reasonable Rates: and for the more commodious doing of this, it will be fitting to make acquaintance with severall Merchants, especially <i>English,</i> who will either inform You themselves, where such things are to be found, or else address You to such Persons in the Town, as may best hap to do it. It is likeways necessary for You to have such acquaintance, and amongst them some one confident for returning You Money from <i>England,</i> or at least for returning You, what Money You have not present Use for, to <i>Florence,</i> as also for keping correspondence with; that by this means, You may send any thing you please to Your confident at <i>London.</i> And because this advice may be usefull in many other Places; I shall be more particular in it here for all. I suppose then You were to send any little Ball for Trunk from <i>Ligorne</i> to <i>London;</i> Your 95 way would be first to pass it at the Custom house, where, I think Books, and curiosities pay nothing but yet You must have an Order for Shipping of them, then You must agree with some <i>English</i> Master of a Ship, bound for <i>London,</i> for the portage, and accordingly draw a Bill of Loading---which is of a common Stile bearing, <i>that such a Ball or Coffer marked,---(and sometimes it says, marked as on the Margen, and then the Mark whether it be Letters or Figures or both, which is put upon the Goods, is likeways placed upon the Margen of the</i> Bill) <i>is imbarked This</i>---Day <i>of---and</i> Year <i>of God---aboard the good Ship called---now in the Port of</i> Ligorn, <i>and bound for</i> London, <i>whereof</i> Mr:---<i>under God is</i>  Master, <i>the which Ball is consignable at</i> London <i>to</i> Mr---<i>Merchant</i> &amp;c. <i>or bis Order, for which he is to Pay---</i> English <i>Mony, he receiving the said Ball well conditioned, without Skaith or Damage,</i> There must be three Copies of this <i>Bill,</i> one You must subscribe, and give to the Master of the Ship, for [...]  96 Warrand to carrie his Fraught. The other two he must subscribe and give to You, whereof You must send one by Post with a particular Letter of advice, to Your correspondent at <i>London,</i> to warrand him to call for the Goods, at the Master of the Ship; and the other You must keep by You for Your own security, in case there should be any miscarriage, either through the Skipper, or Merchants fault, and then Your Goods may be imbarked. If You were to send from <i>Florence,</i> then you must in the like manner pass your Goods at the Customhouse; if there be any Books among them, You must have a particular Licence as I Noted formerly, and then cause unball them at the Custom-house, and set your Mark upon them, and find out some Boat going for <i>Ligorn,</i> (which you will be sure to do,) and take a Note under the Boat-Masters hand of the recept of such Goods so marked, consignable to such a Ma[...]n Merchant in <i>Ligorn,</i> for which he is to pay so much Fraught, he receiving the Goods 90 well conditioned. This Note you must send by the Post to your Merchant in <i>Ligorn,</i> together with Your acquittance at the Custom house of <i>Florence,</i> which will serve to acquit them at <i>Ligorn;</i> together also with particular advice to dispatch them by the first good occasion for <i>London,</i> and to take Bills of Loading for them, whereof you must desire one Copie to be sent to your self, which you must keep for your Security, as said is; From <i>Rome</i> you must use the same conveyance to <i>Ligorn:</i> But from <i>Venice</i> you must address immediately for <i>London,</i> and in the same manner as from <i>Ligorn.</i> If you be to send any thing over Land, where you go not along your self, you must make two Letters of Voiture (having first agreed for the carriage at the Rate of so much <i>per Cent.</i>) whereof you must give one to the carrier, which is a kind of advice to the Person you address your Goods to, which is in this form: suppose from <i>Turine</i> to <i>Lions,</i>  you write thus, </p>
 </br> </br> Sir

<p> I have sent a Bundel marked---by--- 91 Indweller in this Town, and Carrier to <i>Lions,</i> addressed to You, which I desire you would be pleased to receive, and being in good condition, Pay for it at the Rate of---<i>per Cent.</i> and I shall hold you account thereof, or otherways place it to the account of---at <i>Paris,</i> to whom I desire you to address the Bundell and send it with the first good Occasion, and I shall be Accountable to him. The carrier will part from hence, such a Day being the---<i>Day</i> of---and will arrive at <i>Lions</i>  the---<i>Day</i> thereafter, the Bundell contains no Merchant Goods, being only Books, <i>&amp;c.</i> for my own Privat use and therefore not Customable I rest. </p> </br> SIR, <i>Yours</i> &amp;c. </br> 
 </br> </br>

<p>THe other Letter of Voiture is an Obligation under the carriers hand to You, which you must send by the Post to your correspondent at <i>Lions.</i> The Form of it ought to be as follows.</p>
 </br>

<p> 92 <i>I</i> Vnder Subscribed Carrier of <i>Turin,</i>  acknowledge to have received from---the---<i>Day</i> of---at <i>Turin</i> a Bundell Marked---Weighing---addressed to---Merchant of <i>Lions</i> to whom I promise to deliver it in good condition at <i>Lions,</i> (with the help of God) or to his Order, he paying me at the Rate of---<i>per Cent.</i> therefore. In witness whereof I have subscribed their presents with my hand at <i>Turin</i> the---<i>Day</i>  of---Anno--- </p>
 </br> </br>

<p> I Have been the more particular in these things, because altho' they may seem to be triffles, to those that are conversant in such matters, yet a small mistake, may be the occasion of a great Miscarriage. I shall now return to put You in mind of some other particulars, and 1. That in this Place, Oisters are a very great Delicat, there being but one person that has Priviledge to sell them, for which he payes a considerable Sum 93 to the great Duke; I know not well from whence they are brought, but I am sure it is from a considerable Distance: They are keept in the Town-Ditch, on the East side of the Town, which is full of salt water, because it hath communion with the Sea; the keeper hath a little House hard by, and according to the number Bargained for, takes them alive &amp; very fat out of the Ditch, &amp; sells them at the Rate of a Pistole the Hundred. They are many times put into the Ditch little, and keept untill they be big enough, they taste very well, and are by far the best in <i>Italy.</i> 2. To the East-ward of the Town, about a Mile or little more, there is an Hill called <i>Monte Nero,</i> upon which there is good harbarizing. You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide with you to the Place. From <i>Ligorn</i> you have 15 Miles of Smooth and Plain way to </p>

<p> <i>Pisa.</i> It is an Ancient City, sometimes a common-wealth by it self, and then both Rich and populous: But since it was Reduced under the command of 94 the great Duke of <i>Tuscany,</i> it is neither of the two; the far greater part of the Inhabitants, after the Town was Reduced, chusing rather to abandon their Native Country, than their Liberty, or at least preferring a voluntar Subjection abroad, to a necessitated Slavery at home. The City is large and Beautifull, divided, as it were in two by the River <i>Arno,</i> and again conjoyned by a beautifull Bridge, of white Marble. The Air of this Place, in Winter, is judged to be more Temperate than that at <i>Florence,</i> &amp; therefore the great Duke uses to pass the Winter here. There are many things considerable in this Town; as, <i>1st.</i> The great Church, which is a Stately Fabrick, and well adorned within, as also the <i>Batistaria</i> whereof the Doores, as also of the great Church, are all covered with Massive Brass, cast into delicat Figures. <i>2ly.</i> The crooked Steeple, which leanes to one side very far from the perpendicular; some people alledge it was purposely so built, but I am more apt to beleeve that the ground hath miss-given on the one side 95 by little and little, or rather insensibly, which may be some part of the Reason, why it hath hung together so long without falling, to which the excellencie of the Cement and Workman-ship hath contributed very much; my opinion, to one that narrowly observes, will not appear to be unreasonable, for the outside is of so many Rows of small Pillars going round about, and the lower-most Row, on that side that it leanes to, is more than half hid in the ground, where as those of the other are wholy to be seen; which I suppose could not have happened otherways, than as I have said. <i>3ly.</i> The Buriall Place, which is the most stately I ever saw, being a long quadrangle, well walled and galleried about, in the midle whereof are very many Monuments of great antiquity, of many of the ancient noble Families of <i>Pisa.</i> They are most of them of white Marble in shape like a Coffine, wherein the Body of the Dead persons was laid: Some of them are carved in one Fashion and some of them in another, and 96 some of them into excellent Figures. <i>4ly</i> The Dukes Palace. <i>5ly.</i> The Physical Garden, together with the Rarities that are keept in a Gallery belonging to the Garden, where you will see a very great Collection of Natural Curiosities. The Garden uses to have very rare exotick Plants; but in regard you can have no access to it, except by the recommendation of the Physitian, that is Professor of <i>Botany</i>  for the time, therefore I think it will be worth your while to make your address to him, for a Libertie, first, to see the Garden and Gallery; secondly, to get from the Gardener or himself, the Seeds, of such as you have a mind to, and a Peece of the Plant for drying, if you think fitting; you must not be negligent here, for this is one of the best Gardens in <i>Italy,</i> &amp; in my opinion preferable to that of <i>Padua,</i> especially for exotick Plants. The University, for the whole Estate of <i>Tuscany,</i> is keep'd here, and if you please you may see the Schooles for all Professions, and particularly that for the Lawes, where 97 the most renowned <i>Bartholus</i> did teach. Amongst the Booksellers you may find something to accommodat you, because it is an University Town, and I shall tell you here, because I do not remember to have it done as yet, that, generally speaking, all sort of Books in <i>Italy,</i> are cheaper than in any other place where I have been. I pray You remember to get a Couple of the Catalogues of the Garden there, of the last Edition. </p>

<p> From <i>Pisa,</i> You have but a small half days Journey, of very pleasant Way, to <i>Luca,</i> which is a Delicat little Town, a Republick by it self, and having but a very small Territory belonging to it; it is well and regularly fortified with a dry Ditch, which is keept very cleane and in good Order, and allways Green: the Republick is governed by a Prince or Chief Magistrat, whom they choose of their own Town, and change him every two Month: So soon as any one is chosen, he must leave his own House and Friends, and retire himself to the 98 Publick Palace, where he is assisted by some other of the Nobles, &amp; cannot come out untill his Government be finished. </p>

<p>The Humour of the people is Chearfull and very Civil, and contrary to the Custome of all <i>Italy,</i> Men and Women converse freely amongst themselves or with Strangers. They use Balls &amp; Danceing, much after the <i>French</i> Fashion; The Religious people use to distill Spirits and Essences, whereof you may provide what Quantitie you please, both good, and good cheap, I wish you might help a Friend to some of Orange-Flowers and Myrtles; The religious Women likeways use to make very prettie Things, and particularly I remember they use to sell Stomagers of quilted Silk, which most people use to wear in the Winter-time, of one Fashion or another.</p>

<p> From <i>Luca,</i> if you please, you may go to <i>Pisloia,</i> and so to <i>Florence,</i> or otherways returne to <i>Pisa,</i> and from thence, either by Coach or Horse, to <i>Florene.</i> If the Weather be not too hot, it 99 is better to go on Horse-back, in regard of the prospect of the Countrie, which cannot be had in a Coach. <i>Florence</i> is a new Town, but one of the most beautifull in all <i>Italy,</i> and therefore called <i>Fioren[...]  a la Bella;</i> it is situated upon the River <i>Arno,</i> which divides it in two sev[...]rall places, over which stands four fair Bridges. The City is Counted at least six miles in Compass; The Beautie of it consistes in the Stateliness of the Buildings, the great number of Palaces, the neateness and cleannesse of the Streets, occasioned by the largeness and smoothnes of the Stones, with which it is paved; the many large Places, Fountains, Statues, Churches, Towers, Convents &amp; Gardens; Of all which it hath very many of the best in <i>Italy.</i> There is scarce any thing in this City; which is not very well worthie to be taken notice of&#0183; but particularly. 1. The Dukes two Palaces, the Old and the New; In the new the great Duke himself keeps his Court. It is a [...]ost magnificent Structure, o[...]  the <i>T[...]scan</i> Order of Architecture, but not finished 100 as yet; The Garden belonging thereto is very well furnished, with Rare Plants and Flowers; of which the Catalogue is Printed, of which I desire You to bring alongs a Couple of Copies. It will not be a miss to make Acquaintance with the Gardener; for, so you will get what Seeds you please. The old Palace stands in the great Place of the City, in the midle of which Place there is a Stately Colossus of Brass, of <i>Cosmus</i> great Duke of <i>Florence</i> a Horse back, by the Model whereof that of <i>Henry</i> the great upon the new Bridge of <i>Paris</i>  was made. Near to the Entrie into the Palace there are severall other Noble Statues of Marble: within the Palace it self is that so much famed, over the World, Gallerie, which is composed of many Roomes, containing great Varietie of the choisest Curiosities; as Sta[...]ues, Busta's, Baserelieues, Paintings, Drawings, Prints, Cabinets, Jewels, Cameo's, Intaillia's, with all sorts of <i>Anticailles,</i> with an infinite number of Master-peeces of latter times. Amongst other things, there 101 is a Chamber or two full of all sorts of Armes, amongst which those of <i>Charles</i> the Great and <i>Roland,</i> with severall Swords of <i>Henry</i> the great, also a great Number of Cymiters, some whereof have their Scabbards set with Rubies, Emeralds, and other precious Stones. There is an ancient Buckler with a Medusa's Head, Painted by <i>Michael Angelo bona rota.</i> I remember to have observed some ancient Casaques, whose weight I am confident no Head could sustain, unless so adjusted to the rest of the Armour, and that to the Sadle, that the Horse must have carried all. You must endeavour to get a Writen Inventure of the severall Curiosities in the Gallerie, for without that it is not possible to remember every particular; Within this Palace, the great Duke uses to keep the most excellent Artisans he can meet with, of all Trades, to whom he gives considerable Salaries and Priviledges, whom you will do well to see, but especially the Stone-Cutters, of whose Art I intreat you to take particular notice, and what 102 Instruments they use, and learne at least as much of it as may serve to polish Stones. Amongst other Curiosities of this Trade, You may see a New way of Mosaick Work, wherein the figure is compleated most delicatly, both as to the parts and Colours thereof, by the Natural Colours of the severall peeces of Stones assembled together; and which is strange, all the lights and shadows requisite in Painting is herein observed; So that they can imitate Nature allmost as fully this way as in Painting it self. This way differs from the old Mosaick, in that the particular Peeces that compose it, are of different Figures according as the colours require; for example, a Cherrie because it is all of one Colour, therefore it may be represented by a Red stone of a round Figure in one Peece, but the Stalk of it must be of an other different figure: But in the old way, all the peeces were Quadrangular, whatsoever might be the colour or thing to be represented, and of this kind of Mosaick you will see a most excellent 103 Peece in St. <i>Peters</i>  Church at <i>Rome,</i> representing St. <i>Michael</i> the Arch-Angel treading upon the <i>Devil.</i> In this Palace likeways, the great Duke keeps a Chymical Laboratorie, called <i>la Funderia,</i> wherein are made very many notable preparations with great Faithfullness, especially Spirits and Essences, which may be bought here at reasonable Rates, and without fear of being cheated, as to the goodnes of the things, <i>2ly.</i> Severall Churches and Convents, particularly the <i>Dome</i> the out-side whereof is the most beautifull in <i>Europe,</i> being all crusted with Black. White and Red Marble, fit[...]y placed together in regular figures. The Church within is Paved with black and white Marble, and Richly adorned with Chapels and Altars; The Cupola is very Large and Fine insomuch that the Golden Ball upon the Top of it, which is able to contain a great many Persons, does not appear from the Ground to be bigger than a good Foot-Bal; Near to the <i>Dome</i>  stands <i>Jota</i>'s Towre, one of the most 104 admirable Peeces of Architecture, in the World; being a square Steeple, without any spite on the Top of it, all crusted with black, white and red Marble, in most regular figures from the top to the bottom; near to it stands the round Chapel of St. <i>John</i> delicately payed with Marble, and adorned with statues, with a Rich Vase adorned with precious Stones, wherein the Children are Baptised. The Doors of the Chapel are of Brass, all in Figures of personage in Base-relieve of most admirable Workmanship; in this Chapel is the Sepulchre of <i>Jota,</i> that renown'd Painter and Architect, upon whom there are some excellent Latin verses there ingraven, which I have lost, but [...]o[...]mend to you to take a Copie thereof. In the Church of St. <i>Spirito;</i> there is an Altar ha[...]cost above a Hundred Thousand Crowns, which were left by a <i>Florentin</i> Gentleman for that effect. In the Church <i>de Sancta Cr[...]ce,</i>  (I h[...]ve [...]orgot whether i[...] belongs to the [...] or Ja[...]obi[...];) <i>Michael Ang[...]o bona rota</i> i[...]  interred, 105 and it is said at his own desire, that he might lye within the View of <i>Jota</i>'s Towre, which he did so much admire in his lifetime; Upon his Tome there are three most delicate Statues, the one represents Painting; the second, Sculpture; the third Architecture: in which three Arts, he was so great a Master. St. <i>Laurence</i> Church was magnificently built by <i>Cosmo de Medicis,</i> whose Scpulchre is to be seen there. There is that famous Chapel, which the Dukes continually Labour to Finish. It is the most Glorious thing extant in the World, there being already bestowed upon the Workman-ship thereof above eight Millions of Gold, and I beleeve a considerable deal more will not perfect it. It is not very large, but built round; it is all Mosaik, both the Floore, roofe and sides; and the least considerable Stones that compose it, are Jasper, Porphir, Alabaster, Lapis Lazuli &amp;c. there are severall nests in the Wall about, where the statues of the Dukes are to stand as they lived and succeeded to the another. The 106 Great Altar is not yet set up, because of peoples being still at work in the Chapel, nor is it yet altogether finished, but yet there is so much done, that to look upon it, one should hardly think there were any thing wanting. It is keept in the Dukes Wardrobe in the Old Palace, of which I forgot to speake formerly, and therefore tell You now that it is one part of the old Palace which You must not faile to see, there being in it a vast Treasure of Silver and Gold Plate, with many other Precious things. The Altar is keept in a little Room by it self, I shall not under-take to descrive it particularly, but only desire You to consider well every part of it, the Richness of the Materials and excellencie of the Workemanship, the <i>Mosaicks,</i> and the <i>Christall</i>  Pillars, and I believe You will easily excuse my holding by the general, and omitting to speak of particulars: I do truely think that the beauties and excellencies of this Chapel and Altar, are so great and so many, that they Deserve a Particular Book to make them known to the world, 107 and it may be there is some such work intended, or alreadie extant, which if it be I am confident You will take care to have it. </p>

<p> I must give You notice in this Place, that You will doe well to Treat with some of those men that Work about the Chapel, or else with some of those stone-cutters in the Gallery for some small Peeces of all the species of stones; let them be of such a Bigness as may easily serve to know them by. I make no doubt but You may get them at a Reasonable Rate. But I must earnestly intreat You to mind those two Species of stones which are found in Quarries not farr from <i>Florence,</i> whereof the one Naturally represents Townes and Landscapes, the other is some what Whiter, and has Trees and Forrests Represented on it, by little Black Draughts; I remember to have shown you a small Peice of each sort, but now I would have, two or three larger Peeces of both the sorts, of about a span-Length, and of the best Marked, for I intend to put them in frames, as a Cheif ornament of my 108 Tradescants. I shall hold You compt for the price. 3. The Place where the wild Beasts are keept. It is a long square Peece of ground Walled about, and galleried on the Top for Spectators; under the galleries are litle cells that open to the Place, in each of which there is keept a severall Wild Beast, such as <i>Lyons, Tygers, Leopards, Woolfs, Beares,</i> &amp;c. These have their keeper that waits upon them, and Feeds them, and when the great Duke commands, they are brought out, one or more, as he Pleases, and bated with Dogs, or otherwise set to fight with one another, Upon such occasions strangers are Permitted to see. 4. The Book-sellers; of which there are prettie store here and those well furnished too. You cannot miss of a <i>Casalpinus de Plantis</i> or two, for it was Printed in this Place. If You can get his appendix <i>ad libros de Plantis,</i> You will oblidge me to bring it with You; it was Printed by it self at <i>Rome.</i> You may possibly meet with other good Books, for it is ordinar when Learned men die&#0183; for Book-Sellers to buy 109 their Books. I must likeways put You in mind to buy a Printed Paper for me, that was Published at <i>Florence,</i> called <i>Testis examinatus;</i> it containes two or three figures of the <i>Testicles</i>  with a short Description thereof, in one single leaf. </p>

<p>There is one Dr. <i>Kirton</i> Dr. of <i>Physick,</i> He is a very civill and obligeing Gentleman; If he be yet alive he will be Your Interpreter: and if You need not that, he will help You to expede the rest of Your affairs; in short, both his counsell and his company are to be esteemed; He is an <i>English</i> Man born, low in stature and prettie ancient.</p>
<p>You must not faill in this Place to take notice, of the variety of Fruits, &amp; Wines; as the Red <i>Florence</i> Wine, which is counted the best for ordinar Drinking, being stomachical and without Sweetnes. The White <i>Florence</i> Wine, which is Sweet; <i>Verdea,</i> which is delicious small Sweet white Wine; <i>Monte Pulciano,</i> White and Red, both very good Wines, so called from the Place they grow upon, and many more such.</p>

<p> 110 If You happen to be here in the Summer time, especially when the Grapes are Ripe, You will find in the Markets great Varietie of Fowles and small Birds, whereof I intreat You to take notice, but especially of those kinds, that are not common with us, and try to get their Skins, which may be easily done, when the bird hath not been long Dead; the rump must be left at it for preserving of the Taile; The Head, Wings and Feet must be likewise left, and only tbe body taken out, &amp; so the Skin filled with Flax or Cotton. This I intreat You to remember to doe wheresoever You shall happen to be in the Summer time, and if any such occasion Present it self to You in Winter, not to ommit it. </p>

<p> From <i>Florence</i> to <i>Rome</i> You have 140. Miles; there are severall wayes of Travelling, <i>viz.</i> by Coach, by <i>Procaccio</i> or Messenger with whom you agree for so much; as is usuall in <i>France:</i> and by the <i>Viturin,</i> that is, by hyring of Horse at a certain Rate, &amp;
 Paying for Your own entertainment at every part as you pass. 111 If you be acquainted with the customes of the Countrey, and have Language enough to make Your self understood, this last way is the best, because you will be sure to fare better, and cost you no more, than you would otherwise Pay to the Messenger, who will be sure to provide the worst chear for you, that he may make the better for himself: in short, it is best to be Master of your own Purse, and not live at the discretion of Your Conductor. I have forgot hitherto to tell you that there is some Incommoditie for Travellers upon the Road, as to their Bedding, their Cloaths espiecially, the Sheets being for the most part very nasty, and it is but now and then that either money or fair words can procure a Pair of clean Sheets. The best remedy I know is not to put off ones Cloaths, and to wrap ones self, especialy the Head, in their Cloak, that the face and Hands may not touch any unclean thing; in short a litle Patience will do it, and you will be sure to be better accomodated in good Towns. </p>

<p> 112 The places You are to pass by, are Cheifly these as follows. </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>FLORENCE.</H4> 

<l>S. Casciano 9 Miles</l> 

<l>Le Tavernelle 8 Miles</l>
 
<l>Pogibonzo 5 Miles</l> 

<l>Staggia 4 Miles</l> 

<l>Siena 9 Miles</l> 

<l>Montarone 5 Miles</l> 

<l>Lucignano 3 Miles</l> 

<l>Bonconvento 5 Miles</l>
 
<l>Tornieri 5 Miles</l> 

<l>S. Quirie 4 Miles</l> 

<l>La Scala 4 Miles</l> 

<l>Ricorso 4 Miles</l> 

<l>La Paglia 5 Miles</l> 

<l>Ponte Centino 9 Miles</l>
 
<l>Acquapendente 2 Miles</l> 

<l>S. Lorenzo 3 Miles</l> 

<l>Bolsena 4 Miles</l> 

<l>Montefiascone 6 Miles</l> 

<l>Viterbo 8 Miles</l> 

<l>Ronciglione 10 Miles</l>
 
<l>Monterosi 8 Miles</l> 

<l>Roma 20 Miles</l> </UL>

<p> 113 There are not many considerable things to be seen upon this Road; <i>Siena</i> was a republick by itself, but was reduced by the Emperour <i>Charles</i> the <i>5th.</i> and by his Son <i>Philip</i> Gifted to the Great Duke of <i>Tuscany,</i>  under whose Power it still Remains. The Town is of a good bigness, and commended for it's Situation, and the purity of the <i>Italian</i> Tongue. The <i>Dome</i> or great Church is a statly Fabrick; it is Paved with Marble, but especialy the Quire, upon which is most Curiously Graven the History of <i>Abraham</i> Sacrificeing his Son, and History of the <i>Maccabees,</i> and for the better Preservation of them they are covered with Matts. There is likewise an entrie from the Church to the Bibliotheck of <i>Aeneas Sylvius,</i> who was born in this Town. He was once Legat from the <i>Pope</i> into <i>Scotland,</i> and afterwards Created <i>Pope</i> himself, and took the name of <i>Pius Secundus.</i> He was a Man of great Learning. The late <i>Pope Alexander</i> VII. was Native of this Place, of the Family of <i>Chigi;</i> his Statue is to be seen in the great Church. The greatest Part of the 114 and the Towre belonging to it are of Black and White Marble without. In the Church of St. <i>Dominic,</i> amongst other Relicts, is preserved the Head of St. <i>Catharine</i> of <i>Siena.</i> The Tovvne is well watered with many fine Fountains. The great place is made with a kind of Descent Theatre ways, so that from the middle of the Place You may see all that walk in it. <i>Montefiascone</i> is famous for a most Delicious Kind of <i>Muscatello</i> Wine, which You must be sure to Tast. The Messenger uses to Dine without the Town, but you will be sure to fare better and get better Wine within; There goes a storie that a <i>German</i> killed himself in this Place with Drinking excessivly of this <i>Muscat.</i> As you goe from thence to <i>Viterbo</i> you will find a kind of <i>Aspalathus,</i> which I take to be <i>Acacia altera Angularae.</i> It growes as high as our Broom, and is plentifull enough, so that you will easily discover it. </p>

<p> From <i>Viterbo,</i> all that distance to <i>Rome</i> is called the <i>Campania</i> of <i>Rome,</i> in which it is thought most dangerous to sleep in 122 the Summer time, therefore if you fortune to travel it in Summer, whither to <i>Rome</i> or from it (the same is under stood of 40. Miles distance round about <i>Rome</i>) you must be sure not to sleep in the <i>Campania,</i>  which you may easily avoid by Travelling in the night. when you arrive at <i>Rome</i> you must give up your name at the Port; your Countrey, the Place from which [...]ou came last, and the house you goe to Lodge at: and from thence you must go <i>a la dogano,</i> or to the Custom House, where your Cloakbag must be Searched, and from thence to your lodg[...]ng place, according to the Billet given [...]ou at the Port, without which no House [...]eeper dare receave a stranger; But they [...]re things of Course and effectuat without any trouble. You will doe well to Lodge in a Pension for the first week, untill you have made some acquaintance, by means whereof you may be fullie informed where to light upon a convenient <i>Camera locanda:</i>  There was two <i>French</i> Pensions, and one <i>English</i> in my time. The first of the <i>French</i> was <i>Al monte d'oro.</i> The second was <i>nella strada del Populo</i> 123 The English pension was in the same <i>strada del Populo, alla villa di Londra:</i> we had severall Countrey men living in the Town in my time, as particularly <i>signior Roberto Pendrick,</i> a worthie old Gentleman, and most obligeing to his Countrey men, he was my particular good friend; and I make no doubt but you will find him so, for I hear he is still alive, and I wish he may be long so. He lives in a House of his own upon the <i>Triuita di monte.</i>  There is an other called <i>Signior don Gulielmo Lesly,</i> He is Chaplain to Cardinal <i>Carlo Barberino</i> and lives <i>nella Cancellaria.</i> I dare be confident to give you this man for one of the most faithfull Friends in the World, and one in whose goodness, prudence, Kindness, and good Conduct you may trust ten Thousand Lives: to be short you will find I am not mistaken, when I call him <i>deliciae humani generis,</i> for in all my lifetime I never knew another like him, make it their whole work and study to find opportunities to oblige every Countrey-man according to his condition: The p[...]r of 124 them, with Food and Rayment and whatsoever else they may stand in need of, and all other men with continual offices of civility. By his means you will get to see many of these things I shall recommend to you hereafter. If I Know of your going to <i>Italy</i> in time, I shall have a Letter there before you. Your best convenience for Lodging and Diet will be <i>a Camera Locanda.</i>  You may take it in that place of the town that suits best with your occasions, you will pay for it by the month, less or more according to the goodness of the Chamber and furniture thereof. As for your diet it will be drest in the House, and you must tell at night what you Intend to eat next day, that they may provide it for you: As for the prices you cannot be easily Cheated, because as to that, most things are Regulated, And in the quantitie it is not possible you should be overreached because all things are sold by weight. There are severall Kinds of Bread used in this City, but that which is called <i>Papaline</i> is undoubtedly the best. There are likewise many sorts of Wines, 125 some of them <i>Galliardi</i> or strong, as <i>Greco, Muscatello di Saragosa, Lagrima</i> &amp;c. others are <i>Legieri,</i> or small, and they are many; the best for common use is <i>Albano,</i> which You may drink pure: and it is remarkable that there are but few places in <i>Italy</i> where Water may be Drunk safely, and because one may be mistaken in the choise, the best remedy is to Drink none at all. There are great variety of fruits according to the Seasons of the year, I shal only desire you to be cautious, and not to eat too much or too often of any, but especialy, of <i>Melons, Cucumbers,</i>  and the <i>Malanzane,</i> or <i>mala insana,</i> which are a Kind of <i>Solanum Pomiferum.</i> There are good store and Many Kinds of Fishes, especialy Sea Fish, whereof the best are, <i>Sols, il Pisce Capone</i> &amp;c. The <i>Tunino</i> is a great Fish as big as our <i>Salmond,</i> and Red like it, but harder and dryer a great deale, the bellie of it is verie fatt and they use to Salt and sell it in the Taverns, being sliced in small peeces upon a Trencher; Fresh <i>Sturgeon</i>  is very common; <i>Lobsters</i> are much harder and worse to disgest 126 than ours: as for fleshes, <i>Bufalo</i> is only eaten by the Poorer sort of people; Beif which they call <i>Vacina</i> is good; <i>Vitella campo reccia,</i> or Hudron is good, but above all the <i>Vitella mongana</i> or sucking Veal. Lamb is worth nothing, nor Mutton either, which they call <i>Castrato,</i> and serves only to make Broath for Sick People; Kids are good. In the Winter-time there is is abundance of <i>Sangliers</i> or wild Boars, as also <i>Porcepics.</i> The Snow in that season, driving them from the Hills to the Valleys, where they are Killed by the Hunters. There is likeways great Variety of Fowl. There is none so common as Quailes, at two seasons of the year, that is, the Spring when they come into <i>Italy,</i> and the latter end of <i>Autumn,</i> at which time they are much fatter and better when they go from it. It is said that they draw together to the Coast side, and there wait for the rest of their number a whole Moneth, and then at last, their <i>Caravan</i>  being complete, they flee away nearer the Sunn in a great cloud. The <i>Pigione Sotto hanca</i> are the biggest and 127 fattest, and best for eating in the world: they are good in all seasons of the year. About the time of Vintage there are great Variety of small Birds, all very fatt &amp; good, and at easie Rates, amongst which the <i>Ortolani,</i> and <i>Beccafiche</i> are most esteemed. </p>

<p>
 As for the things to be seen here, they are so many, and so considerable, that it would require a large Volume to describe them, and there are abundance of such Books extant, to which I referr you, and especially to one in 80. called <i>L' Antichita di Roma di Andrea Fulvio:</i> but you must not fail to get an <i>Antiquario,</i> who for a certain Summ of two or three Crowns will show you all the particular Antiquities and considerable places of the Town, and as for the fuller information of them your Book will serve you: I shall only hint at somethings worthie to be taken notice of; 1. The Court; that is, the Pope, Cardinals, Prelates, Monsigniorie &amp;c. There are some great Holy days, when the Pope Celebrats Mass in person; it will be sit to 128 wait upon some of these occasions, for then you will see the Grandeur of the Court and the forme of a Cavalcata, together with the Popes ordinary Guards. 2. The Churches. 3. The Palaces; especially those of the <i>Vatican,</i> together with the Bibliotheck and Gardens of <i>Belvidere,</i> in which amongst other things take particular notice of the statue of <i>Ly[...]aon</i>  with the Serpents wreathed about him; There is an other Garden also belonging to the <i>Vatican,</i> in which there are many exotick Plants, it was planted by the Popes order, by <i>Tobias Aldinus</i> and is Keept still in reasonable good order; amongst other things you will find the <i>Cameripses,</i> or <i>Camedactylus,</i> of the bigness of a Low Tree and carrying Fruit; there is likewise a <i>Grotta</i> or water work, and very fine Fountains of water, about which grows plentifully the <i>Capillus veneris Major</i> or <i>Ramosus.</i> and <i>Arum Aegyptium Mathioli, sive Colocasia,</i> which is a plant carying no stalk, flowr nor fruit in <i>Italy</i> (I know not what it does in its native Soyle) but only broad Leaves very large and round. </p>

<p> 129 The Palace of <i>Farnese;</i> and in it that Gallery whereof the Painting in <i>Fresco</i> by <i>Aniball Caraccio</i> is so famous, and the <i>Tauro</i> which is kept in a little House a part, in the back court of the Palace. It is the noblest piece of Art extant in <i>Rome</i>  altho it be very antient, as being one of those named by <i>Pliny,</i> to have been in his time in <i>Foro Trajani;</i> yet it is not only intire, but as beautifull as if it had never been moved out of the place it stands in now. </p>

<p> The Palace of <i>Principe Pamphilio;</i> it stands in the <i>Piazza Navona,</i> where you may take notice of that Glorious Fountain made by Cavelier <i>Bernini,</i> whereupon the top of a little artificial Rock, are placed, four great delicate Marble Statues, representing the foure great Rivers of the World, and each of them pouring out of a Vale placed under one Arme, a great quantitie of Water, and in the middle of the four there stands one of these <i>Gulias</i> graven with <i>Aegyptian Hieroglyphicks,</i>  brought from <i>A[...]gypt</i> by the Antient <i>Romans.</i> They use to 130 stop the way-goe of the Water, sometimes in the Summer, and lett the Place overflow with Water, and then People come toward the evening, in their Coaches, and drive softly up and down the water to take the <i>fresco,</i> which is one of the greatest <i>Gusto</i>'s in <i>Rome.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Palazzo Borghese,</i> Standing near to the <i>Ripetta. Palazza Palistrino;</i> and in it the library, where you may see two copies of the <i>Hortus Eystetensis,</i> one illuminated and the other not; Mr. <i>Lesty</i> will command you a sight of that when you please, for it belongs to <i>Cardinall Francisco Barberino.</i></p>

<p> The Popes Palace of <i>Monte Cavallo,</i> and the Gardens thereof. 4. The <i>Villa</i>'s: as first that of <i>Borghese,</i> which is without the walls: there is a particular Book to be sold by the House keeper, that sufficiently descrives it and all the beauties of it, to which I Refer you. <i>2ly.</i> the <i>villa</i>  or <i>Palazzo medici,</i> belonging to the great Duke of <i>Tuscany.</i> It stands upon the <i>monte Trinita,</i> the Hall is adorned with a great many Pillars standing 131 about the Walls, of most delicat Marbles, and the Originalls of a great many <i>Illustres</i> and <i>virtuosi.</i> In one of the Chambers there is a most beautifull statue of <i>Venus,</i> of <i>Grecian</i>  Antiquitie. In the Garden there is a Noble statue of <i>Cleopatra,</i> the Ruins whereof were repared by <i>Michaell Angelo bona rota,</i> and many other statues <i>Base Releiv</i>'s and <i>Vases,</i> which for Brevities sake I must omit, and refer you to the particular Books that treat of those things, But most of all to your own diligence in viewing them and keeping a punctuall Register of all that you see, and so I shall only name some of the <i>Villa</i>'s that remain, and are most considerable. As the <i>Villa Montalto;</i> The <i>Villa Ludovisi,</i> where amongst other Admirable things the statue of the dying <i>Gladiator</i>  is excellent. The <i>Villa Farnesi;</i> The <i>Villa Pamphilio,</i> which is a pretie way without the walls, and the rest which I leave to your sight. </p>

<p> <i>5ly.</i> The Castle of <i>St. Angelo,</i> which formerly was the Burial Place of <i>Hadrian</i>  132 the Emperor. 6. The Hospitalls; Particularly that of St. <i>Spirito,</i> which is a most magnificent Structure, and well appointed in all things. They will show you amongst other remarkable things, the Place where the Children of such a Bigness are permitted to be put in, without any further inquirie made after them, or who brought them. By this means the Life of many a Child hath ben saved, which otherways would have been taken away to prevent the disgrace of the Parents. They are no sooner put in, but Nurses are got for them: If they be Boyes, when they come to a convenient Age they are put to Trades, according ro their several Inclinations and Capacities. But if they be Girles, then when they come to the Years of discretion, if they incline not to a Religious Life, every one of them is provided with so much Portion to Marry her with, out of the common revenue of the House; And then upon a certain Day appointed for that purpose; all <i>Zitelle</i> or maids come in Procession, one after another, 133 with their Faces Vail'd, and the Men that come there upon such Days, of purpose to choose a Wife, (for all of them have a like Portions) pitch upon such as please them best, and present them a Nosegay, after which, she is sequestred from the rest, &amp; the Marriage Solemniz'd, after the Man has given Information of himself and sufficient Caution that he shall provide a Lively-hood for her. There is a very fine little Garden that belongs to the Hospital lying just upon the <i>Tyber.</i> It uses to be well furnished with Plants, and I have seen the <i>Dictamnus Creticus</i> in flowre there. <i>7ly.</i> The Convents; as particularly the <i>French Minims</i>  upon the <i>Monte Trinita.</i> In the upper Gallerie of their Cloyster there is a Dyall, where the Sun beams, entering by a small round hole, Point the Hours. It was made by <i>Marsennus</i> that famous Mathematician, a Father of their Countrie and Order. They have likeways, in a particular part of their Garden some rare Plants, as <i>Malus punica flore amplissimo pleno &amp; Variegato.</i> </p>

<p> 134 The <i>Minerva;</i> which was anciently the Temple of <i>Minerva,</i> and now is the Chief Convent of the <i>Domini[...]ans</i>  in <i>Rome.</i> In my time there was a <i>French</i> Father there called <i>Padre Barilieri</i> Secretarie to the General for his Nation; He was a great Virtuoso, and exceedingly well versed in the whole Historie of Nature; He had a very Curious Collection of many Naturall Things, and was about to have Published a Large Book in <i>Folio,</i> wherein he had designed a Natural History, with a great many cutts, which he showed me. If the Book be Published, I should be very glad to see it; if he be alive, it will be worth your while to procure his acquaintance. He hath also a Garden well stored with Plants at St. <i>Xisto.</i> </p>

<p>The <i>Roman</i> Colledge; where there is a famous shop and Laboratorie for <i>Pharmacie,</i> as also a Garden.</p>

<p> <i>8ly.</i> The Capitol; the middle of the Place before it, is the Statue of the Emperour <i>Marcus Aurelius,</i> a Horse-back in Brass; It was brought thither from the 135 Place before St. <i>John de Lateran,</i> and is thought one of the best Modells in the World. At the Top of the Staires, as you enter into the place are two Horses, one on every side held by a Slave in Marble. They were brought thither from the Ruines of <i>Pompey</i>'s Theatre. There is also in the same Place two Trophies of <i>Marius;</i> there is also <i>Columna milliaris,</i> with a Brass-ball on the Top of it; there used to be such a one at every miles end, upon the common Roads; &amp; from thence came their Fashion of counting the miles <i>per Lapides,</i> as <i>primo ab urbe Lapide</i> was a mile from the Town &amp;c. The Capitol, as it now is, consists of three Palaces all of Excellent <i>Architecture,</i> and beautified, both within and without with Painting, Statues, and other Monuments of antiquitie; the particular Relation whereof I referr to the Books that are written thereof, and particularly to one called <i>Roma antica &amp; Moderna,</i> &amp; to the particular demonstration of the <i>Antiquario,</i> for I find it will be utterly impossible to discourse of every 136 particular, unless I should resolve to compile a Volumn. </p>

<p> The rest of the Monuments, and rests or rather ruins of Antiquitie, I shall pass over, and only name a few of them; as for example, first, the Walls of the City, which were built by <i>Bellisarius</i> Captain of the Guards to <i>Justinian</i> the Emperour. The breaches have been repaired by severall <i>Popes.</i> The Ports for the most part are the same they were anciently, only the <i>Porta del populo</i> was made a great deal more stately, at the first Entrie of <i>Chris[...]ina</i>  Queen of <i>Sweden</i> into <i>Rome.</i> There is a long courten of the Wall betwixt <i>Porta del populo</i> and <i>Villa Borghese,</i> under which it seems the Ground has misgiven, so that the Wall bendeth, &amp; is therefore called <i>Muro torto.</i> Near to this place also, is the Burial Place <i>delle Cortegiane,</i> there being no Christian Burial or Holy Ground allowed to such persones. There is good Herbarizing about the walls, especially on the out-side, and particularly you will find a Plant there which is not common else where, at 137 least that I have observed, viz. <i>Sature[...]a Spicata sive Thymbra S. Juliani[...]  [...] Satureia vera Lobelii.</i> Upon the Wall of the City, close by the Port of St. <i>Paul[...]</i> in <i>via ostiensi;</i> there is yet extant a Pyramid built of Marble, which was the Burial Place of <i>C. Ces[...]ius Septemvir Epulonum. Secondly.</i>  The old Temples; whereof there are so many that it would be tedious to describe them all, I shall only name some, <i>viz.</i> The <i>Pantheon</i> now called <i>Madonna della rotunda;</i> It was built by <i>Marcus Agrippa,</i> Son-in law to <i>Augustus Caesar,</i> in Honour of all the Gods. It had the Fortune to escape almost totaly, the ruine, and fury, which the Goths &amp; Vandals brought upon the <i>Roman Empire</i>  and magnificence thereof. I admire the Roofe of it, being so large and so flat without any Pillar, to support it, and altho' it be a Vault, it hath no nevilstone to bind it in the middle, but in place thereof a round hole so wide that it lights the whole Roome abundantly, nor is there any other Window in the Fabrick. The next thing I admire in it is 138 [...]he Doore-Cheeks and couple which is all of one Peece of white Marble. The Door opens in two leaves, very wide &amp; very high, they were covered with <i>Corinthian</i> Brass, as was also the whole Roofe, until the time of <i>Vrban</i> VIII. who took it off, and covered it with Lead as it now is, and made thereof the great Altar of St. <i>Peters,</i> and some peeces of Ordinance, that are keept in the Castel St. <i>Angelo,</i> as will testifie a particular inscription at the side of the pantheon Doore, made by the <i>Popes</i>  command. Upon this occasion was that <i>Pasquinad; Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecere Barberini.</i> It has a most stately <i>Portico</i> before the Gate, of a great many large tall Pillars of Egyptian black and white speckled Marble; the descent into the <i>Portico</i> from the Street is of ten or twelve steps, but it is said, before the ruine of the City, that there was as great an ascent to it; whence it may be gathered, what an universal &amp; great devastation of buildings must there have been to fill up so great a deepth. And indeed it is observed, 139 that when they have any occasion to dig, it is long before they come, in most places, to the <i>terra Virgine,</i> that is, which hath not formerly been broke upon: and when they are digging into old ruins, for <i>Anticails</i> (as they are continually doing in severall places) they leave off when they come to the <i>Terra Virgine.</i>  Before the <i>Portico</i> there is a large coffine, with it's cover and supporters of Porphyre which they commonly call <i>Agrippa</i>'s <i>Tombe.</i> </p>

<p>Near to the entrie of the Camp of <i>Vacino,</i> at the bottom of the back stairs that lead to the Capitol, there is a Chapel under ground, which was formerly the Prison of St. <i>Peter</i> and St. <i>Paul,</i> when they suffered for the Holy name of <i>JESVS.</i>  It was then called <i>Tullianum,</i> according to that of <i>Cicero; est locus in carcere quod Tullianum appellatur.</i> The Temple of <i>Saturn</i> is hard by, which in ancient times was the <i>Aerarium publicum,</i> in which the Publick Treasury was keept.</p>

<p>
 Thirdly, the <i>Amphitheatres;</i> most part of which are Ruined, especially that 140 which was built by <i>Titus,</i> now [...]alled the <i>Coliseo;</i> by the part thereof that is standing you may abundantly Judge of the Magnificence of the whole, when it was extant. There is good Herborizing within it, and there is one <i>Dominicus Pa[...]arolus</i>  that hath Writen <i>Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium;</i> with the rest of his works in [...]0. <i>Romae, apud [...]ranciscum Monetam</i> 1652. to which I refer You. </p>

<p>Fourthly, the <i>Aqueducts;</i>  of which the most part are ancient: when they come near to the City, they are convey'd under ground to several Fountains in the City, and some of them so deep, that it is Prodigious by what art they could have Peirc't so deep, as for example, the <i>Aqua Virgine,</i> which is the sweetest and best for use in all <i>Rome,</i> is conducted so deep thro' the <i>Monte Trinita,</i> That in the <i>French Minims</i> Garden there is a descent of six or seven score steps to come at it. Amongst all the Fountains in <i>Rome</i> the most beautifull are in the <i>Piazza Navona,</i> in the <i>Piazza</i> St. <i>Pietro,</i> the <i>Tre Fountane, &amp;c,</i></p>

<p> 141 <i>5ly</i> The <i>Thermae,</i> or Baths; as the <i>Thermae Diocletianae</i> built by the Emperour <i>Diocletian.</i> It is said that ten thousand Christians were imployed about this work, and all cruely Massacred when they had finished it. It is now a Monastery of <i>Carthusians,</i>  in whose common Garden I remember to have seen the Myrtus <i>Buxifoliis.</i> The ruins of <i>Thermae Antonini Caracallae;</i> they are situated <i>ad Radicem Collis Aventinae.</i> I have seen amongst these Ruins that kynd of Capillary, which is called <i>Hemionitis,</i> and no where else that I Remember of. </p>

<p>
 Sixthly the two Columns of <i>Antoninus,</i> and <i>Tra[...]an</i> Emperours; The Statue of St. <i>Peter</i> stands upon the Top of one, and that of St. <i>Paul</i> upon the other: <i>Trajan</i> was so well beloved of the People that to make a place, which in honour of him they called <i>forum Trajani,</i> in the midle of which this Column stands, they levelled a great Hill, of the precise hight of the Column it self. Both the Columns are of white Marble, and all the out side Historified in base relieue, 142 in a spirall line beginning at the bottom and ending at the top. That of <i>Trajan</i>  hath the whole storie of the <i>Dacian</i> War. There is a great Book in <i>Folio</i> of this Column, wherein all the figures are cutt in Brass, and the Large description thereof added. I have forgot the Authors name, but I believe You will find the Book <i>Al insegna di Parigi alla pace</i> from <i>Jacomo Rossi.</i> where you will likewise find all other sorts of Prints and T[...]lledouces. The Columne of <i>Antoni[...]us&#0183;</i>  is 160 foot High and that of <i>Trajan</i> 128. Altho' they apear to be but smal yet each of them hath a Stair-Case within, that leads to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable, as that which stands before St. <i>Maria Majore,</i> which was one of the Pillars of the <i>Templum Pacis,</i> brought hither by <i>Paulus</i> V. who placed a Brasen Statue of the Blessed Virgine upon the Top thereof. There is likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a Crucifix on the Top of it, erected in memorie of the absolution given to <i>Henry</i> the IV. King of <i>France;</i> In the 143 Capitoll likewise there are two <i>viz.</i> the <i>Columna milliaris,</i> of which already, and the <i>Columna Rostrata,</i> which you will see when you view the fine things within that part of the Capitoll whi[...]h stands next to the River, where the Hill is most steep and was anciently called <i>Tarpeia Rupes.</i>  </p>

<p>Seventhly, the Triumphall Arches; as particularly that of <i>Septimius Severus;</i> That of <i>Titus;</i> and that of <i>Constantine</i> &amp;c.</p>

<p>Eighthly, the Bridges upon the River. Ninthly, the <i>Obelisks;</i>  most part whereof are graven with <i>Aegyptian Hieroglyphicks.</i> The best of them is erected in the middle of the place before St. <i>Peters,</i> upon the back of four Brazen Lyons, and a large Pedestal of Marble. The next best is at the <i>Porta dell Populo.</i></p>

<p> Tenthly, the <i>Septem Colles</i> or <i>Montes;</i> upon which <i>Rome</i> is said to be built <i>viz. Mons Capitolinus, Mons Palatinus, Mons Aventinus, Mons Celius, Mons Esquiline[...]s.</i> (where the House of <i>Virgil</i> was and the Garden of <i>Mecoenas,) Mons Viminalis</i> 144 and <i>Mons Quirinalis,</i> called now <i>Monte Cavallo</i> where the Popes Palace is. </p>

<p>Eleventhly, some other Hills: as the <i>Janicular,</i> which is a Chain of Hills without the Walls in the <i>Trans[...]evere.</i> And the <i>Mons Testaceus,</i> which is nothing but a heap of broken earthen Pots and bricks; for in ancient times these were so much in use; and the <i>Figuli</i> or Tradesmen that made them, so numerous, that there was a necessity of appointing them a particular place, and that by publick edict, for throwing the Ru[...]bish of their Furnaces and the pot sheards that broke in the Baking into, least otherwise if it had been permitted to throw them into the River, it might have occasioned an [...]nundation of the City. In process of time it grew to the bignes of the third part of a Mile in Compass, and a Hundred &amp;
 Sixtie foot in hight. This Hill is within the Walls not far from the side of the River, as also <i>Mons Vaticanus</i> in <i>Trans[...]evere,</i> so called <i>a Vaticiniis</i> which used to be made there: The Palace of the <i>Vatican</i> stands upon it.</p>

<p> 145 Twelthly, <i>Roma subterranea;</i> commonly called the <i>Catacombs,</i> whereof <i>Bosio</i> hath writen a large Volumn in <i>Folio.</i> There are two of them, both without the Walls. One of them is at St. <i>Sebastion</i>'s Church. They are <i>Caverns</i>  digg'd under ground in the forme of a Town, that is, larger and lesser streets crossing one another, in some place lower so that You must be forced to stoop, but in others higher than a Mans hight, and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the other, as thick as they can stand one by another, are holes or nests wherein were placed the bodies of the Dead, one by one, upright upon their feet, and so the nests Plastered over. The Bodies and reliques of many Saints and Martyrs have been found here, and were known to be such by the Cross found upon their Sepulchers, with this Inscription <i>Pro CHRISTO.</i> You must take good lights and a good guide to conduct You, for some have mistaken their Way and never found an outgate. The Second, I need not describe it. </p>

<p> 146 There are severall things about <i>Rome</i> worthie the taking notice of, as 1. <i>Ponte mola</i> a Bridge standing upon the <i>Tevere;</i> in Latine <i>Anio,</i> some two miles from the Town, before it joynes with the <i>Tyber.</i>  You go to it by the Port <i>del Populo.</i> It is considerable for it's Antiquity. It was at this Bridge that <i>Constantine</i> the great vanquished <i>Maxentius</i> the Tyrant: There having appeared to him before the Battle, in the Firmament, a red Cross with these words <i>in hoc Signo vinces.</i> the story is Painted in <i>fresco</i> in the Palace of the <i>vatican</i> by a great Master, where You may see it and You will seldome miss Painters in the Roome a Copying of it. 2. The City of <i>Tivali,</i> in Latin <i>Tibur;</i> by the way You will pass a little River, The Sulphureous and noysome smell whereof You will perceive at a Miles distance; it is of a whitish Colour as if Meall were mingled with it; there is a white slymie Sulphureous substance adhering to the sydes and bottom of it, which is soft whilest it is under Water, but being once dryed becomes very hard, 147 they use to make counterfeit comfits, <i>&amp;</i> which they call comfits of <i>Tivoli</i> and use to Cheat People with them for sports sake. The River runs into the <i>Tiverone</i> and spoils the Water thereof, and in my Opinion, does much harme the Water of the <i>Tyber</i>  it self, because the <i>Tiverone</i> joyns with it before it come at the City of <i>Rome.</i> The Town is verie ancient, having several marks of great Antiquity, as <i>Sybilla</i>'s Temple, <i>&amp;c.</i> close by the Town the River <i>Teveron[...]</i>  falling from a great hight over a Rock makes that famous <i>Cascata</i> so much talked of. It makes a horrid noise and continues frothy and working for a good way below the fall, and hath made a Million of meanders and strange figures in the Rock where it falls. A little below the fall there is a Bridge over it of a considerable hight above the Water, where if You stand a while you will perceive a dew able to wet you, which arises from the fall of the Water after the River is fallen. Several parts of it are conveyed by aqueducts into the Town for severall uses; as namely 148 one part for the Brass works, where You may observe, that the Waeer blowes the fire, not by moving the Bellowes (which is common) but by affording the Wind; an other part of it is carried to the <i>Villa d' Este</i> where there is a curious Palace and most curious Gardens with all sorts of Ingenious Water Works and other ornaments, as statues <i>&amp;c,</i> belonging to Gardens. Amongst other things there are several Artificial Birds, that sing their natural Notes by the help of the Water. There is an Organ that plays sweetly, moved only by the Water, which also furnisheth it Wind. The <i>Girandola</i> is considerable, where the water rises in a gross Body very High, and the ayr being Artificially mixed therewith, makes a noice that exactly imitats Thunder. <i>Tivoli</i> is some eighteen or twentie Miles distant from <i>Rome</i> You may easily go from <i>Rome</i> and see all things considerable there, &amp; returne the same day to <i>Rome,</i> unless You please rather to goe to <i>Frescati,</i> which is a most delicious litle Toun about twelve Miles distant from <i>Rome,</i> standing upon the side of a Hill, from whence 149 in clear weather You may easily discover <i>Rome.</i> The Place is beautifi'd with many delicat <i>Villa</i>'s about it, amongst which the most considerable are, first, the <i>Belvidere</i> belonging now to the <i>Principe Pamphilio,</i> the water works whereof are esteemed the best in <i>Italy:</i> There is a Centaur that Winds a Horne by the help of the Water, with that Loudness, that it can be heard at six or seven Miles distance. There is a low Room which they call the <i>Apollo,</i> at the end of which <i>Apollo</i> sits upon the Top of an artificial <i>Parnassus.</i> with the nine Muses about him, he with his Harp, and they with their severall Instruments of Musick, which play by the help of the Water, which is convoyed under ground and is not seen within the Room. About the middle of the Room there is a little hole, out of which the Wind (occasioned by the motion of the Water underneath) comeing furth, hath so much strength as to support a wooden Ball, of the bigness of a Tennes ball, at half a ell's distance and more from the floor, without ever letting it fall 150 to the ground. <i>2ly.</i> At half a miles distance from <i>Frescati</i> are the Ruins of <i>Cicero</i>'s <i>Tusculanum,</i> and <i>Lucullo</i>'s country House; as also a curious <i>villa</i> called <i>monte Dragone,</i> where the House is well adorned with Paintings, <i>&amp;c.</i> and the Gardens with water works. </p>

<p><i>3ly</i> If You desire not to Returne to <i>Rome</i> first, You may goe directly from hence to <i>Castello gondolfo,</i> which is about [...]ive miles distant from <i>Frescati,</i> and fourteen from <i>Rome.</i>  It is a most delicious Countrey House of the Popes, To which he uses to retire some Moneths in the Summer, for the good Air's sake, it hes the Prospect of a most delicat lake, encompased with Hills, that are all shadowed with Trees, where amongst other pleasures you will not want that of Herbarizing.</p>

<p> Being returned to <i>Rome</i> you may make another little Journey with your convenience to <i>Ostia,</i> which is some twelve miles distant from <i>Rome</i> doun the River <i>Tyber,</i>  it was of old the great Harbour for all the Ships and Gallies that belonged 151 City and Empyre, cutt out as it seems by Art, but now thro' long neglect filled up and useless. Having seen all and dyned, you may returne before night to <i>Rome;</i> it will be fit you be at the pains to make another Journey to <i>Caprarolla,</i> one of the noblest Palaces in <i>Italy,</i> built by the famous Architect <i>Vignoli,</i> by order of Cardinal <i>Alexander Farnese.</i> It belonges to the Duke of <i>Parma.</i> It is distant from <i>Rome</i> Miles It is in <i>figure, pentagone,</i> having five very High and equal faces, with a Court perfectly round in the middle, as likewise are the Galleries and Corredor's about it. Morover there is almost as much lodging below ground as above. The Hangings, Statues, Pictures, as also the Gardens, Fountains, and other embellishments, doe well sute the magnificence of the Palace. </p>

<p> Having seen <i>Rome</i> and the Places about it. It will be fit to make the Voyage of <i>Naples.</i> The Months of <i>April</i> and <i>October</i> are most convenient for this Journey, the heat being too great in Summer, 152 and the Snow and Raine troublesome in Winter. </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Rome to Naples.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i> 

<l>Miles.</l> <i>Marin[...], </i> 

<l>12</l>
 <i>Velitre, </i> 

<l>08.</l> <i>Sezza </i> 

<l>15</l> <i>Biperno,</i> 

<l> 04</l>
 <i>Terrazina,</i> 

<l> 10.</l> <i>Portella,</i> 

<l> 03.</l> <i>Fondi,</i>  

<l> 05.</l> <i>Itri, </i> 

<l>05.</l> <i>Mola.</i> 

<l> 04.</l>
 <i>Tragetto, </i> 

<l>10.</l> </UL> <UL> </br> <H4>Pass the River Garrigliano.</H4> <i>Sessa,</i> 

<l> 07.</l>
 <i>Carionole,</i> 

<l> 04.</l> <i>Capua,</i> 

<l> 12.</l> <i>Auersa,</i>  

<l> 07.</l> <i>Naples </i> 

<l>08.</l> <i>&nbsp;</i> 

<l>114.</l> </UL>

<p> 153 As You go out at the Port St. <i>Gioua[...]ni,</i> all along the <i>Campania</i> on every side of the High-way, You will meet with many Ruins of Ancient Burial-Places for several Miles from the City. </p>

<p><i>Velitre;</i> is an Ancient City of the <i>Volsci,</i> much famed also for the Parents of <i>Octavius Augustus,</i> who were Originaly of this Place. Upon the Way from <i>Veletri</i> to <i>Sezza,</i> upon the Hill-side under <i>Sarninetta,</i> there are some Ancient Ruins supposed to be the <i>Tres Taberna[...],</i>  of which St. <i>Luke</i> speaks in the 28. Chapter of <i>the Acts of the Apostles.</i></p>

<p><i>Sezza,</i> formerly <i>Setia;</i> was much commended for its Wine, whence that of <i>Juvenal.</i></p>
 </br> ---Tunc illa time cum pocula sume&#0183; Gemmata &amp; lato Setinum ardebit in auro.</br> 

<p> <i>Piperno;</i> in Latin <i>Privernum;</i> and the Inhabitants <i>Privernati;</i> near to this 154 Place, <i>Iris Florentina,</i> grows abundantly. </p>

<p> <i>Terracina;</i> was Anciently called <i>Auxur,</i> in the Language of the <i>Volsci,</i> of whom this was the <i>Metropolis. Strabo</i> sayeth that it was called <i>Trachina, quasi Aspera</i> from the Rockiness of the Hill upon which it is Placed; altho' the Town be Ancient, it is not very considerable, it is the last Place of the Ecclesiastick Estate towards <i>Naples;</i> Passengers use to Dine here at a pittiful <i>Inn</i> without the Town, where there is no manner of Furniture, but VVood to make Fire: it not being secure for any Body to live in it, because of the Turks that often Land here, and take what they can meet with. VVhen the People that keep the House see any Strangers Arrive, instantly they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town. The Sea comes very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town stands, and on that side which is towards <i>Naples,</i> the Rock is precipitious, and betwixt it and the Sea, leaves but a very narrow and strait Passage, which one Man 155 may Guarde against a Hundred. <i>Fondi</i>  is the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of <i>Naples;</i> here you must give notice to the Officers appointed for that purpose of your intended Journey for <i>Naples,</i> and cause registrat your Name, together with the marks of your Horse, that he may be the better known when you return, to be the same that you brought along with you from <i>Rome,</i> or otherways you will not miss to be challenged upon your return, and stopt, untill you can produce a Certificat that he is the very same you brought into the Kingdom with you. There being a General Prohibition, the observance whereof is Strictly lookt to, against carrieing Horses or Mares out of the Kingdom, into any foreign part, least the breede of them, which is esteemed amongst the best in <i>Europe,</i> should become common to other Nations. Notwithstanding of this severity, sometimes with credit, and sometimes with a little Money, a Man may obtain permission for the 156 Transporting of one or more, either Horses or Mares. </p>

<p><i>Mola,</i> is one of the most pleasant places in rhe World; being close upon the Sea side, and but a little way from <i>Gaieta,</i> to which you may go either by Sea or Land. It is likeways hard by the ruins of the Ancient City <i>Formiae,</i> where <i>Cicero</i>  had his <i>Villa Formiana.</i> The place abounds with many plants, and great Varietie of the choisest Fruits; especially the Agrumi, such as Citrons, Oranges, Limons &amp;c, of all sorts.</p>

<p> If ye please to go to <i>Gaieta,</i> it is worth the while: It stands at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that runs out into the Sea, from the main-Land about three miles, and by that means becomes peninsule, and formeth on the side towards <i>Rome,</i> betwixt it and <i>Terracina,</i> that <i>Sinus Gaitanus,</i> about twelve miles in length. The Town is pleasantly Situated and strongly. There is a great Rock hard by, which is rent from Top to Bottom, which they say, happened when the Saviour of the 157 World Suffered upon the Cross. There is excellent Herbarizing all the way betwixt it and <i>Mola.</i>  </p>

<p> <i>Trajetto</i> is a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of <i>Minturnae</i> stood, where there is yet to be seen an Amphitheatre almost intire, and the remains of a great Aqueduct: It was amongst the Marishes near to <i>Minturnae,</i> that <i>C. Marius</i> did hide himself, when he fled from his Enemies; whence that of <i>Juvenal,</i>  </br> </br> Exilium &amp; carcer Minturnarum{que} Paludes, </br> Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine Panis. </br> </p>

<p>You must pass at this place the River <i>Garigliano,</i> called <i>Li[...]is</i>  Anciently.</p>

<p> <i>Capua,</i> is a new City standing upon the side of the River <i>Vulturnus,</i> and some two miles from it, the Ruins of the Old famous <i>Capua</i> which in the Old <i>Romans</i>  Time, was esteemed one of the most delicious Places in the VVorld. There are yet Vestiges of the Gates of the City, of a Theatre, of a great many sumptuous Temples, Cisternes under gronnd, and a great many other 158 things; that evidently show it to have been a magnificent City. The Country from <i>Vulturnus</i> to <i>Naples,</i> is called the <i>Campania Felice,</i> and is indeed the fertilest soyle and bautifullest Country that my Eyes ever beheld. </p>

<p><i>Aversa</i> is a new City, extructed out of the Ruins of <i>Atella,</i> It is distant 8 Miles from <i>Naples,</i> and famed for a kind of Wine called <i>Asprin[...].</i></p>

<p> That way which leades from <i>Rome</i> to <i>Naples,</i> was Anciently called <i>Via Appia,</i> from <i>Appius Claudius</i> the Censor, who caused Pave this way from <i>Rome,</i> just to <i>Capua.</i> It begins at the Port now called St. <i>Sebastian,</i> but Anciently <i>Porta Capena,</i> from the <i>Capenati</i> a people of <i>Latium,</i> to which that way did lead. The <i>Via Appia</i> is of that breadth that one <i>Chariot</i> may easily pass another. The Emperour <i>Trajan</i> did renew it, and continue the Pavement even to <i>Brindici,</i>  drying the marishes, plaining the Hills, and filling up the Valleyes. By this way Anciently did pass the greatest part of the Triumphs; whence it 159 was called <i>Regina viarum:</i> whence that of <i>Papinius;</i> </p>

<p>Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum.</p>

<p> Altho' this way be Ruined in many places, yet it is wonderfull to see, in how great perfection a great deal of it continues. Without doubt it has been a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length, and Breadth so well paved, with Quadrangular Stones, that even to this Day (altho' it be of common &amp; frequent Passage) continueth as intire as if it were newly done. Upon both sides of this way, as far as <i>Capua,</i> there are a great many Ancient Sepulchres; many whereof are altogether ruined, and some almost intire, as yet; in one of these Sepulchres, in the Reign of <i>Alexander</i>  VI. (as <i>Volateranus</i> tells) the Body of a Delicat young VVoman, was found altogether intire in a Marble Chist. She was of incomparable beautie having her long Flaxen Hair drawn together upon her Head with a Circle of Gold. The Body did almost swim in a mervellous kind of Liquor and had a 160 burning Lamp at the Feet thereof, which the Air, coming in at the opening of the Sepulchre, did instantly extinguish. The Body (as did appear by the Letters graven upon the place) had lyen there thirteen Hundred Years. Some have been of Opinion that it was the Body of <i>Tulliola,</i> the dearly Beloved Daughter of <i>Cicero.</i> It was presented in its integrity to the Conservators of <i>Rome,</i> and for some Days keept in the Capitol as a singular curiosity; but <i>Pope Alexder</i> coming to understand it, caused it to be thrown into the <i>Tyber.</i>  </p>

<p> I must not omit to tell you, that there is some incommoditie in this Journey both as to Dyeting and Lodging; and sometimes there is perill from the Banditi; But he that will gather Roses, must not be affraid to prick his Fingers: Besides, that danger is but sometimes, and you may probably find the way clear, especially, if the <i>Vice-Roy</i> be a stirring Active Man, as it often happens: For then the Banditi will hardly dare to 161 come so far down from the Hills&#0183; as the <i>Via appia,</i> or High-way to <i>Naples.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Naples</i> was Anciently called <i>Parthenope,</i> from one of the <i>Sirens,</i> Buried in this place, (who as the Fables say) Drowned her self for Grief, that She could not Charm <i>Vlysses</i> and his Companions. Hence <i>Silius lib:</i> 12.</p>

<p> </br> </br> Sirenum dedit una tuum memorab[...] nomen. </br> Parthenope muris Acheloias, aequore cujus </br> Regnavere d[...]l cantus, cum dulce per undas, </br> Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis. </br> It was built Closs upon the Sea, at the foot of most pleasant Hills; First built by the <i>Cumani</i> or Inhabitants of <i>Cuma;</i> who being taken with the sweetness of the Air &amp; Pleasantness of the Place; did daily increase in number; insomuch that the <i>Cumani</i>  that lived at <i>Cuma,</i> took a Resolution utterly to Ruin <i>Parthen[...]pe</i> 162 [...]east their own City should become deso[...]at. But it being Ruined, there came so great a Pestilence upon <i>Cuma,</i> as carried away Multitudes, and having consulted the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality; it was answered that this fate had come upon them for the Ruine of <i>Parthenope;</i>  and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease, they should first restore it, whence with all diligence they went about the Restauration thereof, and called it <i>Neapolis,</i> that is to say the new City. The sweetness of the Air, &amp; delicacy of the Country about is so great, that many Emperours and <i>Roman Senators</i> being wearied with the Wars, and weightiness of Government, did repair to this place, that they might live pleasantly &amp; Peaceably, &amp; give themselves to the Study of Letters; amongst which were <i>Virgil, T. Livius, Horatius, Claudianus [...]</i>  &amp; a great many more: At this very present it is no less frequented by the Nobility and Gentrie of the whole Kingdom, who for the most part have their own Palaces and pass the greatest part of the 163 Year here; so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few Cities in the World more considerable than this. I think it is for this Reason, that it is commonly called <i>Napoli la Gentile:</i> Nor is it to be passed by, that it gives name to a Kingdom; which is not very Ordinary. </p>

<p> The City is big and sumptuously built from the Sea to these pleasant Hills about it. It is very well fortified with strong Walls &amp; Castles, especially since the dayes of <i>Charles</i> V. who built the Castle of St. <i>Elme</i>  and called it <i>la Brilia,</i> that is, Bridle; intending to make it so, to the mutinous Humour of that people, and it may be alluding to the <i>Armes</i> of the City, which is an unbridled Horse; the exact emblem of the disposition of that people, as witness the innumerable Tumults and revolts both of old and late Years made by them. I confess there is no small occasion given them by the severe domination of Strangers over them; and it is strange that having so many brave and valourous Men amongst them, they 164 should more readily agree to submit their necks to the Yoak of a Stranger, than to the sweet Scepter of a Native of their own number and Nation. It is thought the great emulation, (which the <i>Spaniards</i> as wisely, as industriously keep up to the hight) amongst the Princes, who are but too numerous for the extent of the Kingdom, is the great cause of their unhappiness. </p>

<p> You may take notice of these particulars within the Town. <i>1ly.</i> The Churches; of which this City hath a greater number, than any other of its bigness in <i>Europe.</i> Amongst the rest, that of the <i>Annunciata,</i> is so Rich; that the Rent of the Hospitall thereof is capable to entertain, 5000 Poor, part whereof are Children found. St. <i>Chiana,</i> together with the Monastrie of Nuns consisting of 400 with as many servants, is very glorious; It was Built by <i>Agnes</i> of <i>Spain</i> Queen to King <i>Robert.</i> There are many curious Sepulchres to be seen here of Kings, Queens, and their Children. In the Church of St. <i>Dominico</i>  is to be seen 165 the Image of the Crucifix, that said to St. <i>Thomas Aquinas; bene scripsisti do me&#0183; Thoma.</i> In the Church of the <i>Frat[...] di monte Oliueto,</i> the true Pictures of <i>Ferdinand,</i> the first and the second; and <i>Alfonsus</i> the First; both Kings of <i>Naples,</i> are so Admirably well done that they seem to be living. There is likewise Buried here <i>Alexander ab Alexandro,</i>  who composed that learned work <i>Genialium dierum.</i> The Church called the <i>Domo,</i> hath a Chapell composed of Marble, Jasper, Gold and Brass; wherein is keept the Head of St. <i>Gennaro,</i> and a little Phiole of his Blood all together fixed, which being approached to the Head of the St. [...]immediatly begins to boyll, dissolves and becomes clear. The most ancient of all the Churches is that of St. <i>Paul,</i> keept now by the Jesuits; It was formerly the Temple of <i>Castor</i>  and <i>Pollux.</i> </p>

<p> 2. The Religious Houses or Convents; of which there are so great a number, that the <i>Dominicans</i> alone have seventeen. The Chartrous convent stands upon the 166 Hill, a little beneath the Castle St. Elm[...]' It hath the pleasantest Situation that I ever beheld; one may discover from it the whole City and Suburbs of <i>Naples,</i> a great part of the <i>Campania Felice,</i> the <i>monte Vesuvio,</i> all the Bay of <i>Naples,</i> the Island of <i>Capreae,</i> the Hill <i>Posilipo, Puteoli, Baii, Cuma, &amp;c.</i> The Cloister of the convent is all of white Marble, and in short, both the Church and whole Convent are altogether Magnificent. </p>

<p><i>3ly.</i> The Hospitals; which are about twelve in number; amongst which, that of the <i>Annunciata</i> and of the <i>Incueabili</i> are the most considerable. It is said that they Marry 665. Maids every Year, and the least portion they give with any is 24 Ducats, and the greatest 300.</p>

<p> <i>4ly.</i> The Castles; of which there are 4. The Castle <i>d'Ovo</i>  stands within the Sea upon a Rock, built of an Oval Figure by <i>Willam</i> III. a <i>Norman.</i> The Castle <i>Nov[...]</i> was built by <i>Charles</i> the first, Brother to St. <i>Lewes,</i>  but it was <i>Ferdinand</i> of <i>Aragon</i> that fortified it so well. It is of a quadrangular figure, Built of polished 167 Stone as hard as Marble; it hath foure great Bastions, and five Towres, together with strong ramparts, and deep Ditches, which the Sea water filleth: It is ordinarly keept by a Garison of the <i>Spaniards</i> Consisting of 500. There is a great Magazin of all kinds of Armes &amp; Engines for War keept within it. In the middle of it stands the Governours Palace, capable to Lodge a King. It is excellently furnished with Hangings of silk and gold, many excellent Statues and Pictures. Amongst other fine things there is a Cabinet furnished with all sorts of curiosities. The Castle of St. <i>Elm</i> stands upon the top of a Rock, commanding all about it; It's Garison consists of 250. <i>Spainards.</i>  It was built by King <i>Robert</i> the first, Son to <i>Charles</i> II. but afterwards farr better fortified with great Bastions by the Emperour <i>Charles</i> V. who called it <i>La Brillia di Napoli.</i> </p>

<p>
 The Castle <i>Capuano</i> (so called from it's situation which is near to the Port of <i>Capuano</i>) is rather a Palace than a Fortress where the Magistrats of the City, 168 and Officers of justice keep their Assemblies. </p>

<p>5. The Palaces; whereof there are a very great number, amongst which that of the Viceroy; That of the Prince of <i>Salern&#0183;</i> which the Jesuits now possess, are very considerable. The Palace of the Duke of <i>Gravina</i> is most <i>superb.</i> That of the <i>Carafi</i>  is adorned with abundance of excellent statues of Marble and Brass. There be many other worthie to be seen: as also the beautifull Garden of <i>Don Garcia di Toledo,</i> which is full of Grotto's, Fountains, Water works, statues <i>&amp;c.</i></p>

<p>6. The Harbour, or Sea Port; which is fortified with a Superb mole, first made by <i>Charles</i> II. And then very much mended by <i>Alfonsus</i> the first, for the greater security of the Harbour.</p>

<p>7. The Publick Places, the streets, &amp; the avenues of the Town.</p>

<p> 8. The Suburbs; which are seven in number; amongst which the most considerable, is that which leads <i>A la grotio di Posilipo;</i> near to the entry of which <i>Grotto</i> stands <i>la mergelina,</i> looking into 169 the Bay; it was sometimes the House of pleasure of <i>Sanazarius</i> that famous Poet, who gave it to the Religious men called <i>Servi.</i> This Suburb is no less than two miles in length from the City to the <i>Grotto</i> of <i>Po[...]lipo.</i>  The Circuit of the Town and Suburbs is counted to be about six miles: and the Inhabitants to be about 30[...]000. Soules. <i>Statius Papinius</i> and <i>Jacobus Sanazarius;</i> both excellent Poets; together with many other great Virtuosi were borne in this City. </p>

<p> It will be worth the while also to take a view of the Book-sellers Shops, there being many good Books Printed here which hardly or not all can be found with us; as for example, the works of <i>Baptista Porta,</i> whereof the Impressions at <i>Naples</i> were both the first and fairest, and the Cutts for the most part Tailledouce. The works of <i>Fabius Columna,</i> which are almost out of Print, and especially his <i>Phytobasanos.</i> It may likewise happen that there are some new peeces emitted which will never come to our hands 170 for at least, not tell after a great while. It is likely too that You may meet with many other Books, that in other places You had sought in vain for: there are many learned and Curious men in this City, and they are as mortall here as elsewhere, and as ordinary a thing it is to sell their Books. </p>

<p>You will likewise meet with a great many curiosities of all sorts, espccially from the <i>Levant:</i> some naturall; as stones, shells, Animalls, or parts of them, fruits <i>&amp;c.</i> Others artificiall; some of Leather, as Purses, Letter-cases, cups, and a great many things of that kind, usualy brought from <i>Allepo</i> and <i>Constantinople:</i> Some of Silk either alone, or mingled with gold and silver; as Sashes, Girdles, Cravats, Night-Caps, wastcoats, stockings, <i>&amp;c.</i> Outlandish Armes, as Cimetres, Poyniards, Bows and Arrows, with severall sorts of fire Armes. Medalls antient and modern: Intalio'<i>s</i> Chameo'<i>s &amp;c.</i> But in these You must take some heed, that You mistake not the modern for antique.</p>

<p> 171 Having well viewed and considered the City and all things in it. It will be necessary to see those things that are considerable about it. And first the Hill <i>Posilipus,</i> famous for it's Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, for it's Fruits and Wines, especially the <i>greco di Posilipo.</i> But that which is most Admirable in this Hill is the Passage cut quite thro' it. By <i>Cocceius</i> of whom <i>Pontanus</i> saith, <i>Nescio an is fuerit M. Cocceius Nerua Augusti Avus, qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulit{que} m[...]ximam Architecturae Laudem.</i> Howeve[...]  it is certain he must have been a man of great Riches that durst undertake so great a work, at his oun expence. It is called <i>la Grotta di Posilipo,</i> and is very near a mile in length, cutt thro' the Rock. As for the breadth of it, one Coach may pass another with ease. And for the Hight, I believe a man on Horseback will hardly touch the Roof of it with a Lance; At the two ends it is some what higher than in the middle, I think of purpose that the light might enter the farther. When You enter at the one end You 172 will very hardly perceive the light in the other end, but as You advance it begins to appear by little and little. In the Just middle of it, on that side which is next the Sea, there is a little Chapell, where a Lamp is keept continually burning, but it is more out of Devotion than for any light it gives: betwixt the Chapell and the end, as it were about the middle on every side of the Chapell there is a hole cutt thro' the Hill which serveth for a window, but it gives little light. It is exceeding dusty, especeially if there be many Horses Ryding together altho' it be paven with stone, because there comes no Rain to wash it, and none takes pains to make it clean. Those that goe from <i>Naples</i> to <i>Pozzuolo</i> if they hear any Horses Coaches or Carts coming toward them, least they should stop the way, or unawares Justle one another, they use to cry aloud <i>dal mare,</i> which when the others hear, they cry in like manner <i>dal monte</i> and so those that goe from <i>Naples</i> take that side of the <i>Grotto,</i>  which is next the Sea and these that go to it take the side 173 next the Hill; and so avoid all incumbrance. At the mouth of the <i>Grotto,</i> upon the top thereof is the famous Sepulchre of <i>Virgil.</i> There is little remaning of it now except a few Ruins of an old Brick wall in the middle whereof anciently there did stand nine small Pillars, which sustained a Marble U[...], in which were contained the Poets ashes, with this Distich. </br> </br> Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc </br> Parthonope; cecini pascua, rura, duces. </br> </p>

<p>Not far from this Tomb, is the Sepulchre of that famous Poet <i>Sanazarius,</i> in a Place called <i>Mergelina,</i> a <i>Villa</i> given him by King <i>Frederick,</i> where he built a Church in Honour of the BIessed Virgin, and composed that incomparable <i>Poem de partu Virginis.</i> He is Buried within the Church in a Tomb of pure Marble upon which his statue done to the life standeth with this Epitaph by Cardinal <i>[...]embo.</i></p>
 </br> Da Sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni Sineerus, musa proximus, ut tumulo.</br>

<p> 174 There are many other excellent Statues, Base Relieves, and Pictures within this Church well worthie the seeing. </p>

<p>When you go to <i>Pozzuolo,</i> you must take a Guide with you to show you all the considerable Places. It will be a good dayes Journey because You have many Things to see and consider, and therefore you must part early in the Morning from <i>Naples.</i> The first thing you will meet with upon the Way, (but you turne out of the common way) is the <i>Lago di Agnano</i> at the side of which are the Natural stoves of St. <i>German,</i> which are certain little roomes, where the hot and Sulphureous Vapors entering from the Ground quickly provoke sweating, and is commended in severall diseases.</p>

<p> At a little distance from thence, upon the side of the Lake is the <i>Grotto de I Cani.</i> It is a little hole dug out of the side of a Brae where two or three Persons scarcely can stand. The Floore of it is ordinarily wet and dirtie, out of which there riseth a Poisonous Vapour, 175 in form of Smoak, but it ascendeth not above a Foot from the Ground. They use to trie it with Torches and Dogs, which you must carrie from <i>Naples</i> with you, for you will not find them upon the Place. As for the Torches, the guide lights two, and then reaches one of them to the Smoak, which instantly extinguishes, as if it were blown out by the force of Powder: Then he lights it at the other, and so renews the experiment as oft as you please, keeping always one lighted, untill your Curiositie be satisfied; as for the Dogs he holds their Nose into the Vapour, and instantly they begin to fetch their Breath thick, and in a very little space are quite suffocated. If ye let them ly long, they will never recover, but if ye take them immediately when they are fallen down and throw them into the Lake, they will by little and little returne to live again. I guesse this Vapour to be so much like the Damps, that are sometimes found in our Coal-pitts, only, with us, they are soon dissipated, but here this lasteth 176 continuallie, and (which is yet more strange) in an open Air; but it may be the openness of the Air is the Reason why the Vapour ascendeth no higher. I remember one of our Dogs did recover without being thrown into the Lake, which makes me believe, that it is not any peculiar Vertue in the water (as is commonly said) that restoreth them to life, but only the freedom of the Air, with the help whereof Nature reinforceth it self, the life being yet not quite extinct, which is cleared by this, that if they lye any considerable time in the cave, neither Air nor water will recover them. It is very True that, That which was thrown in the Lake recovered much sooner, and better: whereas the other remained paralytick, and impotent to move his hinder quarters: (tho' he could Sit upon his foremost Leggs and bark&#0183;) for almost two houres thereafter. It seems there is something in this Vapour or Damp that coagulats or fixes the Spirits, that they cannot move or circulat in the Body. </p>

<p> 177 From hence you take the Way to <i>Pazzuolo,</i> near to which you will meet with a Place called <i>la Solfatara,</i> it is a large plaine, Oval in Figure, representing a Theatre, it is above 1200 Foot in length and 1000 in breadth, it is compassed about with white &amp; high Hills, from which in many Places, arise Clouds of smoak, of a Sulphureous smell, rolling up into the Air impetuously, with great crackling. Some of these spiracles are very small, so that it is a Pleasure, to see the Smoake ascend, by a direct line of the bigness of cane, and sometimes smaller by much. About these spiracles you will see Quantitie of the Flowres of Brimstone sublimed; but I suspect the internal use of them, because of the mixture of other minerals wherewith they may be infected: But for external uses, I am not so doubtfull, as also of the Spirit which by the help of convenient Glasses might be gathered in aboundance from these spiracles. When you consider the plaine you will wonder to hear it sound under your Horse-feet, as you were Riding over a large Floore, which is caused 178 by the Vacuitie underneath. All the Hills about abound in veines of Allum whereof some is scissile; nitre, Sulphur, Vitriol &amp; Salt Armoniac. The Vitriol is of a Delicat blew Colour and much finer than that which is commonly called <i>Roman-Vitriol.</i>  It will be worth your while to take particular notice of these minerals, how they are extracted out of their mines, what differences there are of every Species, how they are mixed with one another sometimes, by what Art they are purified, and with what Instruments, and to what use they are put. I would have you take a Parcel of every sort and bring along with you, which you may box up at <i>Naples</i> with Cotton, and send before you to <i>Rome.</i> </p>

<p> Having done these things, you come to <i>Pozzuolo;</i> in Latine <i>Puteoli.</i> The City is now much Ruined; but was Stately and Rich of Old. <i>Cicero</i>  writing to <i>Atticus</i> saith <i>quid potui non videre cum per Emporeum puteolanum iter facerem;</i> which is Chieflly to be understood of that part of the Town, which stood upon the 179 Shoare where the Arti[...]ans, and chiefly the Goldsmiths, had their Shops, whereof there remaines little now except the Ruins, and Vestiges: And yet beneath the Church <i>di Giesu Maria,</i> possessed by the Dominicans, when the Wind dryves out the Sea, they do find sometimes severall Precious Stones, some cutt, some uncutt; and if you be Curious to enquire you will find People that make a Trade to sell such things amongst other Anticails. I remember there came severall of these Persons to our Lodging-House, with Medals, <i>Intaglio's, Lucerne Antiche</i> &amp;c. But I found many of them to be cheats, and but moderne, brought thither from <i>Naples</i> and other Places, of purpose to cheat Strangers, who are ordinarly
 more Curious than knowing of these things; As for Medals, were they never so Ancient, they are little worth unless they be well preserved, and the Characters and impressions easie to be discerned. And for Intaglio's unless the Figure be good&#0183; and well done, and the Stone entire and unbroken, they are not 180 worth much. The great Church now dedicated to St. <i>Proclus</i> was anciently dedicated to <i>Octavianus Augustus.</i> It is a Sumptuous Fabrick of great square Marble Stones; serving for the whole thickness of the Wall, with great and high <i>Corinthian</i> Pillar's, and other Excellent Ornaments of Architecture. </p>
<p> Here are also be seen many Ruins of great antiquitie, amongst which she Gardens of <i>Cicero</i> famous for his Academy, where he wrote his <i>Quaestiones Academicae.</i>  But this City, in diverse ages has suffered so much by the tumults of Wars, as also by the eruptions of fire and earthquakes, that it is wonderfull there should yet remain any vestiges of Antiquitie. The Soil about it is most fertile and fruitfull, and nature produceth here many Plants of it's oun accord, which in other places are kept in Gardens, not without care: among others I remember to have seen the <i>Ricinus</i> or <i>Palma Christi</i> not only growing wild but out-living that Winter, and continuing fresh green and strong in the month of <i>March;</i> altho' 181 it be an <i>Annual</i> Plant with us, that can hardly be raised upon a hot bed. </p>

<p>
 You may have your Horse at <i>Pozzuolo,</i> and hyre a boat to cross the Bay for seeing of the following things, And 1. hard by the City the remains of that <i>Superb mole,</i> which having been ruined by storme was afterwards Restored by the Emperour <i>Antoninus:</i> But at present all that Remains is 12. or 13. great Pillars built of Brick and stones of vast bigness. They appear so many towrs, over which there are yet remaining, but half Ruined, some Arches. This fashion of Moles seem to be the best, because the Pillars and Arches are sufficient to break the water and secure the Ships within, and by letting part of the water enter betwixt the Pillars lessens it's violence, so that the Pillars suffer not half so much, as if they were one continued wall. The Emperour <i>Caligulae</i> built a bridge of boats from <i>Pozzuolo to Baii</i> upon which he went in Triumph first on Horsback and then in Chariot, but it was of small continuance and served only to be the subject of discourse in 182 future ages. Having passed these Pillars. Yov put ashore hard by the <i>Lacus Lucrinus</i> which as some said was so called <i>a Lucro</i> from the profit which it yeilded to the <i>Romans</i>  by the great abundance of excellent Fish especialie <i>Oysters,</i> which were esteemed before any other in <i>Italy:</i> Whence <i>Martial</i> to express the Gluttony of a certain Person. </p>

<p>Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino.</p>

<p>
 But there is little water in it now, it being almost dryed up by that most Terrible eruption of the <i>Solfatara</i> which happned in the Year 1538. the 29. of <i>September</i> two hours after Sun set, the whole countrey about having been troubled for two Years before with Earthquakes: At which time there burst out in one night so great a quantitie of fire, Stones, Pumecks, and ashes, that near to the <i>monte Barbaro</i> formerly called <i>mons Gaurus</i> it made another Hill, near three miles in compass, and almost as high as the <i>monte Barbaro.</i>  The south part of it looks to the Sea, the north reaches to the <i>Lacus Avernus,</i> &amp; on the East it is 183 joined with the foot of <i>Monte Barbaro.</i> It is called <i>monte Nuovo.</i> These ashes did not only make this Hill, but covered likewise a great part of the Country about, Killing both beasts and Trees, and ruining the Vintage for that Year. The Sea in the mean time retired above 200 paces, leaving abundance of Fish upon the dry sands, and many Wells of fresh Water, which sprung here and there. </p>

<p> 2. The <i>Lacus Avernus</i> is about half a miles distance from the <i>Lago lucrino.</i> It is compassd about with small Hills which they say were formerly covered with Trees, that did over shaddow the water, and make it look black, and likewise did hinder the Sulphureous Vapours that did arise from the water to dissipat, so that the Air being infected with these vapours became so noysome especially to Fowls, that they could not live in it, and hence came the Name <i>Avernus.</i> At present there is little or no Wood about it, nor is the Air any thing more noysome there, than in other places about, and I have seen Fowles 184 haunting about it and swimming in it. It is said to be very deep &amp; for that reason without Fish but I am not certain hereof. </p>

<p> 3. Upon the west side of the Lake, cutt into the Hill is the <i>Antrum Sybillae</i> commonly called <i>Grotta della Sybilla,</i> but not truly, for the true Cave of <i>Sybill[...]</i> is at <i>C[...]a.</i>  This seems rather to have been a common passage from <i>Avernus</i> to <i>P[...]ia,</i> but is now stopt at the one end by the falling down of the Hill above. The passage is large and High, but altogether dark, and therefore You must be guided by Torch light. When You are got a good way in, upon the one side there is a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in length, that leads into a handsome large Chamber, which altho' it be now much ruined, appears to have been Richly adorned, the Roof of it being Painted with Gold and Blew, and the Walls with curious figures of divers colours and the Pavement consisting of many small peeces like unto <i>Mosaick.</i> It is a vulgar errour that this was <i>Sybilla</i>'s Chamber, and 185 that the Temple of <i>Apollo,</i> where she received her Responses, was hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake; But it is not so, for the Ruins of that Place appeare not to have been any Temple at all, But rather a Superb Bathing House, such as that of <i>Baia,</i> for it has the same order of Windows, &amp; Spiracles for conducting of the Vapours. But to returne to the <i>Grotto,</i> upon the left hand, as You enter into this Chamber, there is another Passage, some what higher and larger than the first, about 40. foot in length cut out into the Hill, which leads into another Chamber, from which there is a narrow passage, which leads into another Chamber, and severall other little passages and Roomes which <i>I</i> doe not distinctly remember, only this much that in one of them, there is as it were a little Pool of Warm Water. In this Room the heat is so great, that it is impossible to continue any time in it without excessive Sweating, which makes me to believe, that these Rooms were intended for no other use than Bathing and Sweating. </p>

<p> 186 4. The Remains or Ruins; and first <i>Bagno di Cicerone. 2ly. Bagno di Tritoli; quasi Frittoli, q[...]od Corpora ibi fricrentur,</i> The Entrie to it is large and high. Towards the ground it is cold, but if you stand upright You must needs Sweat for Heat, and the farther one goes in, the greater the Heat is. At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark, and even where the Sea covers it, the Sand is so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull of it. </p>

<p> 5. <i>Baia;</i> So called from <i>Baius,</i> the Companion of <i>Vlysses,</i>  who was Buried there. It was a most delicat City, but now altogither Ruined, and in the place of it there is a Castle lately Built with a a Garison of 30. Souldiers for Securing the Port, which is verie safe for Gallies, but not deep enough for Ships. The whole Bay, or <i>Sinus</i> of <i>Baia,</i> is exceedingly Pleasant; all that Tract betwixt <i>Avernus</i> and the <i>Mons Misenus</i> being full of the Remains of great and Noble structures. Many of the <i>Roman</i> Emperours took great pleasure in this place, &amp; and spared no cost for the beautifying of 167 it. <i>Horace,</i> who was no ill Judge, gives this Testimony of it, </br> Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis.</br> 
 </p>

<p> As You go forward from <i>Baia,</i> You will still be finding something worthie the Remarking; as, 1. The House of <i>Agrippina, Nero</i>'s Mother, who was put to Death here by her Sons Command. It is commonly said to be her Sepulchre, but it is not true. There is yet to be seen the Plaister of the Roof and walls in severall Curious figures, but they are much defaced by the smoak of the Torches which strangers from all parts so frequently carry down with them. 2. That delicat Pleasant Field called the <i>Eligium,</i> so much renowned by <i>Virgil</i> in the <i>6th.</i> Book of the <i>Aeneids.</i> All the Noble Persons that lived here abouts, or did otherwise attend upon the Court, which did often happen to be here, likewise those that for their Health's sake came to the Bath's, used to walk in this place for their 188 Recreation and Converse. I am easily inclined to believe that considering it's Situation, Prospect, and the Order that it was keept in, when so many great Persons frequented it, It could not chuse but have been the most delicious Place in the whole World, and no wonder that it Prompted <i>Virgil</i> to Borrow both it's name and his Conceit in expressing and describing the Place of the Blessed Soules Departed. I saw it in the begining of the Moneth of <i>March,</i> and then the Heat was considerable, and the Place not only green but covered with <i>Anemonies</i>  and other Flowers. Hard by this, is the <i>Piscina Miraebilis:</i> it is a Cistern for keeping of fresh Water, of a vast Bigness, the Roof whereof is supported by 48. great Pillars on everie side. The whole inside of it is Crusted over with a kind of Plaster as hard as Marble, which whither it was so made by Art, or by the Continuance of the Water in it, I know not, but I think it probable that both have contributed to it. <i>Boccace</i> in his Book of Rivers, believs 189 it to have been built by <i>Agrippa,</i> for preserving of fresh Water, for the Commodity of the Navie which used to stay at <i>Misenum.</i> The Water was brought to it by aquedu[...]ts from <i>Serino.</i> 3. <i>Mons Misenus</i> or the <i>Promontorium Misenum,</i> so called from <i>Misenus, Aeneas</i>'s Trumpeter, who was Buried here. It is of a Reasonable Hight, and without doubt the prospect from it is Noble; but I did not ascend it, by reason of the Company that would not stay for me. </p>

<p>4. The <i>Centum Cellae;</i> which are a continued Fabrick built of Brick with great Art under ground, it seems they have been Cisterns for Conserving of Water. In short, all this peece of ground is full of ancient Ruins, and it is not easie to Guesse, what every one of them in Particular hath been.</p>

<p> Having vieued all these things, you either go straight to <i>Cuma,</i> or else you leave it for another Day, and so returne to <i>Pozzulo,</i> by the same Boat that waited upon you from it, and so returne by Horse, by the lower but plainer and 190 more pleasant Way, to <i>Naples,</i> from from whence the next Day you may go to <i>Cuma,</i> in Latine <i>Cumae;</i> a City built upon the Top of a Hill six Miles from <i>Naples;</i> upon the highest Top of this Hill stood the Temple of <i>Apollo</i> built by <i>Dedalus,</i> when he fled from the wrath of King <i>Minos.</i> It was in this Temple that <i>Sybilla Cumea</i>  did pronounce the Oracles of <i>Apollo.</i> Hence that of <i>Virgil,</i> </br> </br> At pius Aeneas arces quibus altus Apollo </br> Praesidet, horrendae{que} procul secreta Sybillae. </br> </p>
<p>
 As you descend from <i>Cuma</i> upon that side that looks to the East, is to be seen the Frontis-peece of the true <i>Grotta</i> of <i>Sybilla,</i> which was cut out of the solid Rock, which <i>Virgil</i> describeth, </br> Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum.</br> 
 </p>

<p>There are many other Ancient Ruins worthie the taking notice of, which you may have leasure enough to observe, and have time enough to returne to <i>Naples</i> at Night.</p>

<p> 191 The next Day you may take Horse again and a Guide with you from the Town, to see the burning Hill, about 8 Miles distant from the Town; It is called in Latine <i>Vesuvius,</i> and in Italian <i>Monte di soma,</i> from the great Plentie of all things wherewith it aboundeth. the Hill it self is of a very Large Compass, and about the middle divided in two Tops, of which one is much abated of its length by the burning. Before the first eruption of the Fire, it was much higher than the other, but now it is by much the lower. It is not easily accessible both in regard of its steepness, and the great Quantitie of Ashes that cover it every where, by Reason whereof, the ascent becomes slippery and uncertain. In the ascending, you may take nottice of many several Channels, some larger and deeper, some narrower and shallower made by the Torrents of burning Sulphur and other Mineral Substances, which Boyled out at the Top in the last great eruption it made, which torrents were carried several 192 Miles into the Gulf or bay of <i>Naples</i>  without being quenched, and killed the Fishes in the middle of the deep. You may likeways take notice of the various Mineral Substances, &amp; Stones burn'd to <i>Pumick,</i> which are scattered over the whole Hill. When you come at the Top you will see the great Gulf made by the several eruptions, which is suposed to be six Miles in compasse about the Brimmes, so that it makes a very large plain Field at the Bottom, that in deepness from the brimm is not above a hundred Yards, it is all covered with Ashes, and nothing green in it, except it be some few Tufts, of I cannot tell what, not being able to Judge of them at that distance. The descent to the Bottom at some places seems to be easie enough, but we could find none so hardie as to venture to show us the way, altho' some of our Guides had undertaken it before, and to speak truth, it is no great discretion to venture so far down upon a Ground, which probably is not able to support one, being nothing in appearance but a 193 Field of Ashes of uncertain deepthness. You will see in a Hundred diverse Places, Spiracles, some greater, some smaller, out of which the Smoak rises impetuously, as it were shott out of a Gun, and with a continual Crackling, like that of Thunder at a distance, or the quenching of Fire. When you have satisfied your Curiositie of seeing all, you must return the same Day, and take your Horse where you left him, about the middle of the Hill; and so returne to <i>Naples.</i> It is usuall for Strangers to light at a Village about midway to the City, to Taste of these excellent Wines, that grow upon the fertile places of the Hill, and particularly of <i>Lachryma Christi,</i> otherways called <i>Lagrima di Soma,</i> which is a gross bodied Red Wine, strong and sweet to the taste, and very pleasant. </p>

<p>In the suburbs of the Town, as you return, you may see the Kings Stables, where the choisest Horses of the Kingdom are menaged and keept for the Kings use.</p>

<p> Thus having vieued all in &amp; about <i>Naples,</i> it will be time to order your return 194 for <i>Rome,</i> by the same way you came, nor do I remember any other thing needfull to be observed or advised, except that you must l[...]t[...]  your Baggage [...]e vieued at the Gate&#0183; as you go out, and take a Pass from the Customers; or which you will pay some small thing. You will likeways do well to rid your self of all Spanish Monie (gold excepted) unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your expenses to <i>Fu[...]die,</i> because it will not pass in any place of <i>Italy,</i> except such as are under the <i>Spanish Dominion.</i>  </p>

<p> If the Season of the Year be good, there is excellent Her[...]rising upon this [...]oade to <i>Naples.</i> You will find Wild in the Fields, many sorts of <i>Narcissus</i>'s, many Colours of single <i>Anemone</i>'s, <i>Squills: As[...]h[...]delus albus ma[...]or; Tithymalus Dendroides.</i>  It is a Plant I never saw, except upon the way from <i>Pipern[...]</i> [...] <i>T[...]rrachina,</i> about mid way upon a Hill side, where it groweth in great aboundance. It is a stately tall Plant, [...]  reading it self into severall Branches, some whereof I observed to be as big as a 195 Mans Wrist. It had few or no leaves on it in the Season when I saw it, which was <i>March,</i> but aboundance of Yellow Flowers at the Top's of the Branches: The <i>Ficus indica lati-folia,</i> is a Beastly weed in the same Place, and spoiles all the Ground; every leafe that falls springing up into a new Plant, which at last becometh hard and woodie. <i>Tuchr[...]um lusit anicum arborescens,</i> of which I saw some goodly tufts near to <i>Terachina.</i> There be many other, which for brevities sake I omit to mention, and likeways a great many that I have forgot, having lost those notes I made of their names and places; but I hope you will supply this defect, being your self much more able to do it. </p>

<p> Being returned to <i>Rome,</i> which I shall suppose to be about the middle or end of <i>April:</i> It will be fitt for you to think of the next Voyage towards <i>Loretto,</i> unless you resolve to pass the Summer at <i>Rome,</i> for after the <i>20th.</i> of <i>May,</i>  untill the latter <i>Rains</i> fall (which is commonly about the middle of <i>September,</i> or 196 the beginning of <i>October,</i> the extream heat makes Travel very unseasonable. But if in the case of necessity, such as Pestilence, or War, you should be forced to undertake the Journey, you must order it so as to Travel most in the Night, and Rest in the heat of the Day, and be sure not to Sleep till you have passed the <i>Campania</i> of <i>Rome,</i> as I have formerly marked. </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>The Way to Loretto from Rome.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i> 

<l>Miles.</l> <i>Prima porta </i> 

<l>7</l> <i>Castel Novo </i>  

<l>8</l> <i>Rignano </i> 

<l>7</l> <i>Civita </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>O[...]ricoli </i>  

<l>8</l> <i>Nar[...]i </i> 

<l> [...] </l> <i>Terni</i>  
<l> [...] </l> <i>Strettur[...] </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>Spolet[...] </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>Passo di Spel[...]to </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>Verchi[...]no B[...]rg[...]  </i> 

<l>9</l> <i> 197 Pi[...] di dignano </i> 

<l> [...]  </l> <i>Mucc[...]a Castello </i> 

<l>7</l> <i>Valcimara </i> 

<l>8</l> <i>To[...]entino </i>  

<l>9</l> <i>Macerata </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Loretto </i> 

<l>6</l> </UL>

<p> I have not much to say of the particular places upon this Road, only <i>Tern[...]</i> is an Ancient City and pleasantly situated; the River <i>Negra,</i> in Latine <i>Nar</i> being divided in many Branches, and drawn through the Town, are as it were so many little Rivers, whence also the Town in Latine is called <i>Interamna:</i> the Meadowes &amp; Fields about it, are exceedingly fertile, in so much that the meadowes are mowen three or four times a Year; and they talk that Turneps are often found there of five or six &amp;
 thirtie weight, of which seaven or eight will load an Ass; it is also renowned for Pidgeons, which are thought the biggest &amp; most savoury in <i>Italy.</i> If you can take the leisure to stay here any time, it will be worth your 198 while to see the <i>Lago di piedi luco,</i> in Latine <i>Lacus velinus</i> (not far from <i>Terni</i>) which is said to be the middle of all <i>Italy,</i>  that which is most considerable in it, is the <i>Issue</i> of the Waters from it, which was cut by a <i>Roman Consul</i> through a Rock, whence it Rushes out, and falls over so great a hight of Rocks, that it makes a noise which may be heard at ten Miles distance, and makes a greater <i>cascata</i> then that of <i>Tivoli.</i> From <i>Verchian[...]</i>  you have the <i>Appennine</i> to pass, which is that ridg of Hills that divides all <i>Italy</i> by the length. </p>

<p>From <i>Valcimara,</i> the way is exceeding good to <i>Loretto.</i></p>

<p>
 <i>Loretto</i> it self is a little Town not very Ancient, built upon the Top of a Hill, not above 3 or 4 Miles from the <i>Adriatick</i> Sea, it is fortified reasonably well: the most considerable thing in it, is the Church, in the Quire whereof stands the <i>Casa S[...]ncta,</i> brought thither from <i>Judeae</i> Miraculously by <i>Angels,</i>  as is beleeved. This is the House in which the blessed Virgin is said to have been Born. The 199 out-side of it is walled about with Marble cut into excellent Figures, but yet so as the Walls touch not the Holy House. The inside hath continually Lamps burning in it, some of Gold, some of Silver. There is in it a Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin, which they say were painted by St. <i>Luke.</i> The Image of the Virgin, which stands upon the Altar, hath a Garment upon it all covered with Pearles, &amp; upon the Head a Crown of Gold, enriched with Jewells; upon the Top whereof there is a Carbuncle of the bigness of an Egg. There is likeways shown within the House a little Dish, out of which our Saviour is said to have Eat his Meat whilst he was yet a Babe. People commonly bring their Beads, Medals, &amp; other peeces of Devotion to be put in this Dish, &amp; to touch the other relicts. The <i>Sacristia</i> is well worthy the seeing because of the Jewels, and other Rich presents and Ornaments belonging to the House, which are keept there, and have been given and offered continualy, by allmost all Princes and great Persons in 200 Christendom. The Cellar is likeways worthie the seeing, being exceedingly Large and full of Wines. Amongst others they ordinarly shew one great Tun out of which they draw 3 or 4 sorts of Wine, some red, some white. The number of Pilgrims, and other Persons, that out of Devotion resort to this Place, from all the parts of Christendom, is allmost infinit, insomuch that every Day appears to be a holy Day and the whole Year but one continued Feast. So soon as the Gates are opened in the morning, they begin to enter as it were in Procession. I believe there are but few Inhabitants in the Town, except a few Trades-men of all sorts, for the Accommodation of Strangers, the greatest part are Merchants, that sell nothing but Beads and peeces of Devotion, such as Medals of Silver, Gold, Brass, Christal &amp;c. Books of Devotion, and such like. There is good Accommodation in the Town, at a reasonable Rate. The City is Commanded by a Governour, who hath his Palace near to the Church. 201 We were Recommended to him by Cardinal <i>Charles Barbarini,</i> and were treated by him with great Civilitie; his Secretary being commanded to wait upon us, and show us all that was considerable in the place. </p>

<p>After two days stay here we dismissed our Horses that we brought from <i>Rome,</i> and Hyred new ones from <i>Loretto</i> to <i>Bolognia.</i></p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Loretto to Bolognia.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i>  

<l>Miles</l> <i>Ancona </i> 

<l>15</l> <i>La casa Brugiata </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Cenigalia </i>  

<l>9</l> <i>Fano </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Pesaro </i> 

<l>6</l> <i>Rimini </i>  

<l>20</l> <i>Sanigniana Castello </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Cesena </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Furli </i>  

<l>10</l> <i>Faenza </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Imola </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>St. Nicola Castello </i>  

<l>10</l> <i>Bolognia </i> 

<l>10</l> </UL>

<p> 202 <i>Ancona</i> is about half a days Journey from <i>Loretto.</i> It is a verie ancient City and the best Sea Port in <i>Italy,</i> at least upon the <i>Adriatick</i>  Coast: The Port was Built, at least Restored and Beautified, by <i>Trajan</i> the Emperour, in whose Honour a most stately Triumphal Arch was Raised upon it, which it yet extant, with this Inscription in Capital Letters. <i>Imp. Caes. di[...]i Nervae F. Nervae Trajano optimo August.</i> Germanic. <i>Daetico. Pontef. max. Tr. Pot. xix. Imp. xi. Cos. vii. P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R. Quod adcessum Italiae, Hoc etiam addito ex pecunia sua Portum tutiorem Navigantibus reddiderit.</i> And upon the Right side thereof You may Read this Inscription <i>Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug.</i> And upon the left, <i>Divae Marcian: Aug: sorori August.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Cenigalia</i> is a little Town having a Sea-Port&#0183; It seems from the name to have been built, and to have belonged to the <i>Galli Cenones.</i></p>

<p> <i>Fano,</i> Antiently <i>Fanum;</i> because of the Temple of Fortune that stood here; There 203 is a stately Triumphall Arch of Marble 30, Cubits High. <i>Pesaro</i> is a very Pleasant and handsome City having many fine Houses and a Magnificent Palace, It is well Peopled and well Fortified. The Duke of <i>Vrbin,</i> to whom this City did belong, used to pass one half of the Year here; But since his Death without Heirs Male the whole Dutchie is Reunited to the <i>Ecclesiastick</i>  state. </p>

<p> <i>Rimini,</i> in Latine <i>Ariminum;</i> is like to be so called from the River <i>Arimine</i> that passes by it. There are severall fair Palaces in it, built by the <i>Mala-testi</i> antient Lords of the Place. There is a Triumphal Arch erected in Honour of <i>Augustus,</i> yet extant, and the Ruines of a great Theatre. But the most considerable thing of all is the Bridge, Built of great square Marble stones, of twentie foot in length and 15. in breadth, with five Arches. The Bridge Joynes the <i>Via Flaminia</i> and the <i>Via Emilia</i>  together. It is said to have been Built by <i>Tiberius Caesar.</i> In the Mercat place there is to be seen the stone upon which <i>Julius Caesar</i> stood, and encouraged 204 his Officers, when he began the Civil War. This Stone hath this Inscription <i>C. Caesar D. Rubicone superato, civili Bello, Comilitones suos hic in for[...] Ariminensi adlocutus.</i> </p>

<p>Within a Mile of <i>Cesina,</i> or there abouts, You must pass the <i>Rubicon,</i> which seems to be but a Torrent, and in the Summer time for the most part dry; At the place where You pass there is yet extant an ancient Pillar, the Inscription whereof hath made the name of <i>Rubicon</i> so famous. it is as follows; <i>Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos. Imp. Myli Tyro Comilito manipulariaeve Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae armat quis quis est hic sistito. Vexillum sinito, ne citra hunc amnem Rubiconem signa, Arma, ductum, commeatum, Exercitum{que} traducito; siquis hujusce Jussionis ergo adversum ierit, feceritve, adjudicatus esto hostis</i> P: R. <i>ac si contra Patriam armaverit, Sacros{que} Penatos e penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus.</i></p>
 </br> 
 205 <i>NE</i> Consulto ultra hos fines Armae proferre liceat nemini. </br> </br> S. P. Q. R.</br>

<p><i>And upon the other side of the Pillar, the following Inscription;</i> Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator, Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu, &amp; adagio, Jactae alcae, Celebratum.</p>

<p>Flumini huic stabilem imponere trajectum, Ethnica diu vetuit pavida Superstitio, Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio.</p>
 </br> </br> Innocent: X<SUP>o</SUP> Summo Pont: </br> Card: D: Legato 1654. </br>

<p><i>Furli;</i> in Latine <i>Forum Livii,</i> where there is litle thing considerable except the Market Place.</p>

<p><i>Faenza;</i> is divided in two by the River <i>Lamone,</i> over which stands a goodly Bridge that Joynes the two parts of the Town together, it is called in Latine <i>Faventia,</i> and the People <i>Faventini.</i></p>

<p> 206 The whole way from <i>Ancona</i> to <i>Bolognia</i>  is Plain and Smooth, and the Countrey on all sides very Rich and Fertile, but especially near to <i>Bolognia,</i> (which deservedly is called <i>la Crassa</i>) where the whole Countrey, on everie s[...]de of the high way, looks like Gardens, being Hedged and closed in on all sides, and Planted with <i>Olive</i> and while <i>Mulberry</i> Trees, the Leaves whereof [...]erve to the [...]eeding of Silk Wormes, and at the Roots of which the Vines being Planted, run up and spread themselves thorow all the Branches of the Trees, and load them with Grapes. The distance betwixt the Ranges of Trees is Sowen sometimes with Wheat, or other usefull Grain, or Kitchin Herbs and Roots, Nor is there wanting here abundance of the Choisest Fruits that <i>Italy</i> affoords. </p>

<p> <i>Bolognia;</i> is the second Town of the Ecclesiastick State, sweetly situated in a large Plain, near to some Hills at the one side. The City is near two Miles in length and one in breadth, and about 5 Miles in Compass. The Inhabitants are 207 not esteemed to be under 80 Thousand in number, amongst which it is thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen, whereof many have the Titles of Count and Marques. There is a famous University &amp; many fine Colledges worthie to be seen: As also many fine Churches &amp; Religious Houses. The Archdean of the Cathedral of St. <i>Peters,</i> has the Priviledge of making Doctors, above others. In the Church of <i>Corpus Christi,</i> may be seen the intire Body of St. <i>Katharine</i> of <i>Vigri,</i> a Religious Woman of the Order of St. <i>Clare,</i> that Died at <i>Bolognia,</i> in the Year 1463. She sits in a Chair, with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face seems to be bent and streacht, her Eyes open, her Hands and Feet bare: In one Hand She holds a Crucifix, the other is placed upon a Pillow. They use in the presence of a great deal of Companie to paire her Nails every Month, and to cut her Hair once a Year, after they are grown. In the <i>Iacobins</i>  Church is keept the Head of St. <i>Dominick</i> in a Rich Tabernacle, and his Body in a Curious 208 Tomb of white Marble cut in severall figures of <i>Base relieve;</i> In the <i>Choire</i> may be seen the Histories of the New and Old Testament, with wonderfull Artifice represented in mosaick of of Wood. There is also to be seen here, a rare Peece of Painting, of the Innocents made by <i>Guido Reni;</i> all the parts of this Convent are worthie the taking notice of, the Cloisters, the <i>Dormitories</i>  of above 150 Religious, the Refictory Painted by great Masters, the Apothecaries Shop, and the Bibliotheck, and the Cellar which is extraordinarly Big. </p>

<p> There be many fine Palaces worthie the seeing, and very well Ornamented within, but especially the <i>Popes</i> own Palace, where the Legat resides, and in it you must take particular care to see <i>Aldrovandi's</i> Studie, and Collection of Curiosities, which are keept in this Palace, and commonly intrusted to the Legats Physitian. There is likeways to be seen in the Back Court <i>Aldrovandi's</i> Garden, in which there are some Curious Plants. In the Study you will see a great Herball, 209 in water Colours, but without any description, as also a whole press full of Manuscripts, written all with his own Hand. </p>

<p> There are severall Towres in the Town, but especially that of <i>Degli Pisanelli,</i> which is one of the highest I remember to have ever seen; it stands about the middle of the Town, and near by it there is an other which is not finished, and the reason they give for it is very apparent, that the Builders mistook the perpendicular; when one stands near to it, it is so very crooked that it appears to be just a falling. I had the Curiositie to go as high in the other Towre as I could, and rather because I thought I might more easily discover the situation of the Town, it's avenues, and the Country about, but I had much Reason to repent me: The ladders for the most part being old and rotten, so that I was in continuall apprehension of falling, and one slip would have done my turne as well as a hundred. I shall advise you rather to take the paines to see a Convent, 210 a little without the Town, toward the Hills, called St. <i>Michaele in Bosco,</i> from whence you will have a most Delicate Prospect of the Town and Country about. The Town appears in the form of a Ship, and the Towre <i>Deglipisanelli,</i> may be the maine Mast of it. This Convent is one of the most Glorious in <i>Italy;</i> the Religious are of the Order <i>di Monte Olivetto,</i> there are many other things in the Town worthie the taking notice of, which for brevities sake I omit. </p>

<p>You must not forget to see the Silk-Work, which is a most Curious contrivance; it is three or four Storie high, in the Highest Storie there are Innumerable Pirns of Silk, which are all moved by the generall Motion that the Water gives to some Wheeles below, &amp; there they receive the first Twist; in the Storie next to that, they receive the second; &amp; in the lowermost Storie the last: which brings it to that form of raw Silk that we commonly see sold.</p>

<p> This Place above all others in <i>Italy,</i> 211 or in the World, is famous for excellent Soap-Balls, of which you will do well to provide your self abundantly; they will keep in their perfection above 20 Years: You may have them of severall Sizes, bigger or lesser as you please. It is likeways famous for Sassadges, which are the best cetainly in tke World: I have seen of them of 5 Crownes the Peece. </p>

<p>
 There is good Herbarising towards the Hills, if your leisure can permit you; you may take a Guide along with you. Upon these Hills, you will likeways find that famous Stone called <i>Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis,</i> of which <i>Fortunatus Lic[...]t[...]s</i> hath written a particular Book. It is very hard and Flintie like, but more glistering; when it is calcined 48 hours in a reverberatory Fire &amp; then set to cooll: If you expose it a little to the light and free Air, and on the sudden bring it to the dark, it shines for a little while as if it were a Red burning Coale, but there is a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that growes upon 212 the Top of it, whilst it is a Calcineing, which is most effectuall for the shining, and which if it by lost by any Accident, the rest will not be much worth, and for saving of this they use ordinarly to fix the Stone in Wax in the bottom of a Box, &amp; so sell them to Strangers, but this way does not secure them, to my certain Experience. The best way is to bring the Stone uncalcined and prepare it at home. I would have you to see an Apothecarie, who is a great Virtuoso especiallie in Plants. He is called <i>Jacomo Zanoni speciale da san Biaggio custode de simplici in Bolognia;</i> I believe he has Published something of Plants by this time, for he shewed me a Number of Brass cutts, which were allreadie Graven, and told me the intention he had as soon as he could get the rest perfected, to cause print them. If they may be had, I intreat you to procure me one of them; you will do well to see his Garden, which is very Curious. And the best way to ingage all such Men as he is, is to have allways a Parcell of rare 213 Seeds with you, and to give them some, by which means you will find them readie to give you whatever they can spare, in like manner. </p>

<p>I shall advise you to Visit the Booksellers Shops, concerning which I must give you this generall advice, for finding out <i>Botanick</i> Books, that you take paines to look them all over your self; for many times the Book-sellers do not know their names. You will find here <i>Panacea ex herbis quae a Sanctis denominantur</i> Item <i>Historia &amp; Icones Capsicorum Bartholomaei Ambrosini in</i> 80. <i>Bononiae</i> 1630. also <i>Hyacinthi Ambrosini hortus Studiosorum &amp; Novarum Plantarum hactenus non S[...]ulptarum Historia</i> in 40. <i>Bononiae</i> 1657. But above all I must intreat you to buy me <i>Aldrovandus</i>'s works, which ate 13 or 14 Tomes in <i>Folio;</i> you may buy them in Sheets, and have them packt up in your own things for <i>Venice,</i> where you will not fail to meet with frequent Occasions of sending them for <i>London.</i> I believe they will not cost above 18 or 20 Crowns. and if they do I shall be readie to allow it.</p>

<p> 214 It will not be a miss here, if you think fit, to go by Land to <i>Modena, Parma</i> and <i>Piatzena</i> and returne by the River <i>Po</i> to <i>Ferrara:</i> But because I had not the Fortune to see them my self, I shall not say any thing of them, but returne to <i>Ferrara,</i> which is not above half a Days Journie, or thereabouts, from <i>Bolognia.</i>  </p>

<p><i>Ferrara,</i> is situated in a large Plain about half a mile distance from the <i>Po.</i> It belongs to the Ecclesiastick State, and is governed by the <i>Popes</i> Legate. The Streets, Houses and Places, are very handsome &amp; fine, as also the Churches &amp; Religious Houses. In the Monasterie of S. <i>Bennet,</i> you may see the Sepulchre &amp; Epitaph of the famous Poet <i>Ariosto.</i> It hath a verie strong and well contrived <i>Cittadale.</i></p>

<p> From hence you go to <i>Venice</i> by Water, that is in an open Boat, by a <i>Canale</i> near to the side of the <i>Po,</i> where ye imbarke in a bigger Vessel, which goes constantly twice a Week to <i>Venice.</i> If the Wind be favourable, you will easily accomplish the Voyage in 10 or 12 houres 215 time, but if otherways, you may be longer, and therefore you will do well to make Provision of Victuals, to take along with you. When you Arrive at <i>Venice,</i> it will be needfull to Lodge in a convenient Place of the Town, and for that end, you will do well to provide your self of a Recommendation to the English Consul; from <i>Rome</i> or from <i>Bolognia. Giles Jones</i>  was Consul in my time, and entertained Lodgers himself, he was a verie honest Man, and did faithfullie send my things to <i>London,</i> according to the address I gave him. When you are setled in a Lodging, It will be time to take a View of the Town, for the doing of which and considering it well, 3 or 4 Weeks is little enough. Nothing in Nature can appear more prodigious than to see a Vast big Town seated in the middle of the Sea; everie House whereof at one side or another is touched by the Water, and the nearest Land being 4 or 5 Miles distance. It was built at first upon the little Island of <i>Rialto</i> in the Year 421, perhaps later by the Inhabitants of the 216 firm Land that were chaced from their own homes by <i>Attila</i> King of the <i>Huns,</i> &amp; forced to make choice of this place for their safety; since that time they have built upon 70 or 71 Isles more, which are joyned together by upwards of 450 Bridges. The Town is about 8 Miles in compass. There are but few Streets built on both sides, except some open places. The most part of the Streets have a Canale or Ditch in the middle, by which the Gondols pass, which is a great commoditie, for there is scarce a House in the Town, but one may be carried this way, either close to it or within a few steps of it. The Canals are different in breadth, some more some less large, the narrowest is broad enough for one Gondole to go by another; It is remarkable, that the Water Ebbs and Flowes here 4 or 5 foot, which is not observed in the <i>Adriatick</i>  farther down towards <i>Naples,</i> nor in any other Port of the <i>Mediterranian</i> Sea; The Gondals are believed to be above fourteen or fifteen thousand in Number; they are small tight Boats much cleaner &amp; 217 finer than Oares upon the <i>Thames,</i> having a prettie Tilt over the seat where the Passingers sit, &amp; will be able to accommodat 5 or 6 Persons: It is usual for Gentlemen or Persons of Qualitie to have their own Gondols, and those Richer than the ordinary; some are rowed by one, some by two, and it is somewhat extraordinary that the Rower does not sit within the Boat, but stands upon one side of it, and lookes the same way that he rows. At the turning of any Corner, after they come within such a distance of it, they are obliged to cry, to give notice to the Gondols on the otherside whom they cannot see, and he that cryes first hath this advantage, that he turnes close by the corner, and the others are obliged to give him way and take it larger: And I assure you it is no small wonder to me that there being so many corners to tur[...]e, and so continuall and frequent intercourse of Gondols going some the one way, and some the other; and in the dark as well in the Day: there should be so few Accidents of running one another down, especiallie, 218 considering with what swiftness thay go. The largest Canale, called <i>Canale grande,</i>  is about 13 or 14 hundred paces in length; &amp; fourtie in breadth, and divides the Town as it were in two. The Bridge of the <i>Rivo alto,</i> or as it is commonlie pronounced <i>Rialto,</i> is one of the most magnificent Structures in the Citie: it consists but of one <i>Arch,</i> &amp; yet is said to have cost above 250 thousand Duckets; at the one end of the Bridge, there are three large Streets divided by 2 rowes of Houses, which are so many Merchant shops. This serves for the Exchange, where the Merchants meet about Noon to do their affairs. </p>

<p>
 There are so manie things considerable in this Place that it is difficult to comprehend them in this short Narration, and therefore I shall onlie name a few of them, and leaue the rest to your particular inquirie, which will not be hard for you to make, when you are upon the place. Be pleased then first to take notice among the Churches of that of St <i>Mark,</i> which properlie, is onlie the Dukes Chapel belonging 219 to the Palace of St. <i>Mark,</i> whose Bodie being brought from <i>Alexandria</i> is preserved here; The Church has 24 <i>Chanoines</i> belonging to it under one Head, called <i>Primicero.</i> He is commonlie chosen by the Doge, and wears the Miter and other Ornaments of a Bishop, &amp; uses to give his Benediction to the People as Bishops do. The inside of the Church is of Marble of diverse sorts, and all verie fine, with above 40 Marble Pillars; It is paved with Porphire, Serpentine &amp;c. in Mosaick Work; Upon the Top of the great Altar, there is a Globe enriched with a great number of Pearles and other Jewels of price; The Roof of the Church consists of 5 <i>Cupula's</i> covered with lead; It hath 5 Doors of Brass, and over the great entrie on the outside there stands four Delicat Horses, equal in bigness to the Natural, of Brass Guilded, which at first were placed upon the Triumphal <i>Arch</i> of <i>Nero,</i> after he subdued the <i>Parths,</i> but were afterward carried to <i>Constantinople,</i>  when the Seat of the <i>Empire</i> was removed from <i>Rome</i> and at last brought 220 hither by the <i>Venetians</i> when they took <i>Constantinople. 2ly.</i> That which is most worthie of the seeing (it may be in all the World) is the Treasure of St. <i>Mark,</i> where amongst other things you will see 12 Royal Crowns &amp; 12 <i>Breast</i> Plates of Gold, ful of Pearles and Jewels; taken as they say at <i>Constantinople;</i> And the Tradition is, that they were the Ornaments of the 12 Maids of Honour that waited upon St. <i>Helena</i> Mother to <i>Constantine</i> the <i>Emperour;</i>  several Rubies weighing 8 Ounces a Peece, and a Saphir that weighs ten Ounces; two Unicorns Horns; severall Vessels of Precious Stones&#0183; as Agat, J[...]spir &amp;c; one of Emerauld which a King of <i>Persia</i> presented the Senat with. One of one single Turkis; another capable to hold a <i>Scots</i> Quart of one single Granat; The Tiar or Bonnet wherewith the Duke is Crowned, is Garnished with Jewels of inestimable price; There is a vast deal of other Riches, which I cannot particularly remember; There is likewa[...]s to be seen the Picture of the blessed Virgin done by St <i>Luke.</i> The Acts of the Apostles 221 writen in golden Letters by the hand of St <i>John Chrysostome, Patriarch</i> of <i>Con[...]tantinople.</i> It will be worth your while to go to the Top of the Steeple, from whence you will have a delicat Prospect of the whole City and Neighbouring Islands, of a part of <i>Lumbardie,</i> of the severall Mouths of the River <i>Po,</i> The Hills of <i>[...]tria;</i> &amp; the Sea about&#0183; <i>3ly:</i> The Palace of St <i>Mark,</i> whereof the <i>Arches,</i>  Pillars, Halls and Chambers are all most Statelie, especialy the great Halls, which are Painted by the greatest Masters of their time; for the fetter understanding of which, it will be fitt, that you get a Printed Inventorie [...]f all the particular Ornaments of this Palace. </p>

<p> <i>4ly,</i> The <i>Piazza</i> of St <i>Marco,</i> which is one of the Largest and finest that can be [...]  in any Town in <i>Italy;</i> being com[...]sed with most Stately and regular Buildings&#0183; with large <i>Arches</i> and <i>Portic[...]es</i>  to walk in, in the time of Heat or Rain&#0183; with all sorts of Merchandise and Trades. This Place is the most diverticeing in all <i>Venice,</i> for here you may 222 see People of many Nations with different Habits. At that end of that place which lookes to the Sea, there stands two Marble Pillars, each of them of them one Peece, of a great hight and bigness, at a reasonable Distance one from another. Upon the Top of the one is placed a flying Lion guilded, which is the Armes of <i>Venice,</i> and the Symbole of St <i>Mark;</i> Upon the Top of the other the Statue of St <i>Theodore</i> gilded. Betwixt these Pillars, Justice is usuallie done upon Male-factors. About the middle of the place stands 3 verie Tall Poles like unto Ships Masts, whereupon the Standards of the Republick are displaied at great Solemnities. On that side of the place, which is opposit to the Dukes Palace, stands the <i>Mint-House,</i> a verie goodlie Fabrick, composed of Stone and Iron, without any Wood at all. <i>5ly.</i> The <i>Arsenal,</i> which is the largest and best Furnished in the World; it is strongly Walled about, and the Sea drawn about it likeways. There are fifteen or sixteen hundred Men constantly at Work, besides 223 Old Men, who are not able to work, but intertained for instructing the younger. Here are keept all sort of <i>Amunitions</i> of War both for Sea &amp;
 Land, in vast Quantities, and in that good Order, that I have heard some confidentlie say, <i>that there were Workmen within the</i> Arsenal, <i>that were able to build a</i> Gally, <i>and reik her out compleatly in one Hours time;</i> which if it be true, argues a great deal of sharpness in the Workmen, and readiness of the Materials. </p>

<p> There are severall lesser Islands at some distance from the Town, worthie to be seen, and particularlie, 1. <i>Murain</i> about a Mile Northward from the City. It is well built and many good Houses in it; It is in this Island, that all those famous Crystall Glasses so much talked of, and so much sought after throughout the World, are made. It is observed here, that the Glass-works succeed much better on the one side of the Street than on the other. They have likeways a great Art of whitneing Wax, which is observed to succeed better in this Island 224 than any other place in or about the City. There are abundance of Oysters likeways in this Island; they ordinarly keep them in Baskets near the Shoare, to have them in readiness when they are called for, but in my opinion they are neither so pleasant, no[...] so wholesome as at <i>Lighorn</i> and other places, especiallie being eaten raw, for I have often found the eating of them so, to give a verie troublesome Flux of the Belly to severall Persons. <i>2ly.</i> The Isle of St <i>Helena,</i> where there is a verie statelie Monasterie &amp; Church, with <i>Monks</i>  of the <i>Order</i> of <i>Mont Olivet.</i> In this Church is keept the Body of the <i>Emperess</i> St <i>Helena.</i> This Isle lyes to the Eastward of the Town, and about two Miles further the same way, stand the two Forts <i>del L[...]do</i>  and <i>Casielnovo,</i> which both defend them selves mutuallie, and secure the entrie to the City from Enemies in time of War&#0183; <i>3ly. Malamocco,</i> where all Ships and Vessels of anie considerable Burden do Arrive because of the deepness of the <i>Harbour. 4ly.</i> The Isle of St. <i>George,</i> lying 225 just before the place of St. <i>Mark,</i> at half a Miles distance, where there is an <i>Abbace</i> of the <i>Order</i> of St. <i>Benedict,</i> with a most Stately and Glorious Church, together with a Garden and fair Walks, which is thought no small thing in that Place. </p>
<p>Altho' a Traveller cannot be alltogether sure of his times, there being so many Contingencies that may force him either to Arive too soon or too late; yet it were to be wished that a Man might happen to be at <i>Venice</i> in the time of <i>Carnoval,</i> because of the <i>Opera</i>'s and fine shows that are to be seen, and the Extraordinarie Musick at that time. In the <i>Summer</i> time the great Divertisement is to go in Gondole upon the great Canale, where towards the Evening, one may see Five, or six hundred Gondols touring up and down, full of Ladies and Gentlemen, &amp; severalls of them with Musick, both Vocal and Instrumental; which is one of the greatest <i>Gusto's</i> imaginable.</p>

<p> You cannot miss to meet with a great many Curiosities here, both Natural and 226 <i>Artif[...]cial,</i> because of the great resort that Strangers have to this Place, especiallie from the <i>Levant;</i> you will find <i>Medals, Intaleo's, Chamaeo's</i> &amp;c. amongst the Goldsmiths. I have seen severall Curiosities to sell in the place of St. <i>Mark,</i> and sometime within the Court of the Palace, and in many other corners throughout the City. You may meet with maby Curiosities of <i>Glass,</i> that are both usefull and delightfull. It will be worth your while to Visit the Book-sellers Shops, for besides many Curious Books, that you may light upon here, and particularly of <i>Botany;</i> you may likeways find verie many Books, that are prohibited in many other places of <i>Italy.</i> Be pleased to inquire diligently for a thin 40. called <i>Trattato de simplici Pietre. &amp; pesci marini che nascono del lito di Venetia di Antonio Donati Farmacopeo all'insegn[...]  di St. Liberale in Venetia</i> 1631. Printed by <i>Pietro Maria Bertano. Donati</i> himself was Dead before I came thither, but I found out his Brother, a Man of the 227 same Profession and living at the same place, but nothing knowing in <i>Simples.</i> After I had told him the respect I had for his Brothers <i>Memorie,</i> and my regrate for the loss of so worthie a person; he was pleased to show me a great many <i>Brass-Plates</i>  of so many <i>Plants</i> not yet described, together with their description done by his Brother; I am confident were they Published, they would make a bigger Volume than the first. They were in Confusion when I saw them, but I put them in Order and prayed him to keep them so, untill he should find the opportunitie of printing them, which I found him willing to do at his own Expense, nor to trust it with an other, least his Brothers name should have been stolen from it. If it be not as yet printed, you may see what you can do, either to purchase the Manuscript and <i>Plates,</i> or promise the printing of it. </p>

<p>There are many Virtuosi in the City, that have great Collections of fine things which you may be pleased to inquire after and see.</p>

<p> 228 From <i>Venice</i> you have twentie five Miles to <i>Padua,</i> whereof fo[...]r by <i>Berg</i> to the <i>Terra ferma,</i> and the rest you go by Boat, drawen with Horses by the River <i>Brent,</i> which is a most pleasant and soft running River, having plain, Fertile &amp; most delicious Fields on either side, full of Villages &amp; pleasure-Houses, to which the Inhabitants of <i>Venice</i> use to resort in the <i>Summer-Time.</i>  </p>

<p>The River runs not all of a Levell, &amp; therefore there are three or four <i>Locks</i> or <i>Sluces,</i> by means whereof, at severall places the <i>River</i> is made portable; which otherways it would not be. There is such an other <i>Lock</i> upon the <i>Canale</i>  of <i>Briar,</i> near to <i>Montargis</i> in <i>France.</i> You will more easilie understand the manner of them by seeing them, than by any description I can make of them.</p>

<p> <i>Padua,</i> in Latine <i>Pattavium.</i> Is a very Ancient and Large Town; famous over the World, for its <i>Vniversity;</i>  whence it is called <i>Padua la dotta.</i> There are many things considerable in the Town fit to be seen and take notice of. As 1. The 229 Churches as namely that of S. <i>Sophia,</i> that of <i>Justino,</i> which is all Pavemented with white &amp; red Marble; there is an <i>Abbacy</i> joyning to it of the <i>Order</i> of St. <i>Benedict;</i> the Reformation of which Order did begin first here. It was Anciently the Temple of <i>Concord.</i> The place before the Church is very large &amp; spacious. They say ten Thousand Men might be drawn up within it. The Church of St. <i>Antonia de Lisbon,</i>  is notably designed, and hath many Rich things belonging to it; many Relique's, but amongst others the most considerable is the Body of St. <i>Antonia,</i> commonly called of <i>Padua,</i> because he Died and was in[...]erred here. There is great a Devotion payed to this <i>Sainct,</i> and a great concourse dayly to the place, as well of the Inhabitants of the Town, as of <i>Pilgrims</i>  that come from other places. They use to kiss the <i>Marble-Stone</i> that covers his Sepulchre; and they say it smels of Musk. <i>2ly.</i> The palace of Justice, which is most stately. The Stairs are all of <i>Marble</i> covered with <i>Lead</i> without the support of any Pillar. The great <i>Hall</i> is 256 foot in 230 length, and 86 foot in breadth, and very well painted, and at the end of it, that Statue of <i>Titus Livius,</i>  whose Tomb is likeways to be seen in the Town. <i>3ly.</i> The Schooles, which is a very stately Fabrick, being a 4 square court, where you will see a great many of the Statues or <i>Busta</i>'s, Names &amp; Arms of so many Consuls, that have been of the several Nations that compose the <i>Vniversity;</i> the <i>Scholars</i> here have large <i>Priviledges,</i>  and many times abuse them, and become very insolent, insomuch that they have been sometimes known to threaten the <i>Podesta</i> himself or Governour of the Town; they have, likeways a beastly custome of carrieing Arms in the Night, insomuch that it is never safe to be abroad after it hegins to be Dark, for many are this way unhappity Murthered without any Offence given or taken, but only by wantoness, or rather Wickedness of the Scholars. <i>4ly.</i> The Physical Garden, which is exceedingly fine, not so much for the number as rareness of the <i>Plants.</i> You may easily make your addrefs to the Professor that 231 keeps the Garden who in my time was the <i>Excellentissimus Signeur Tore,</i> but the Gardener will be sufficient to do your turn, for in giving him a small peece of Mony, you will command both <i>Seeds, Plants,</i>  and all that he hath. We have a very worthie Gentleman of our Countrie, called Doctor <i>Cadenhead;</i> in my time he was Publick Professor of <i>Logick nel Bo,</i> which is the Publick <i>Schooles.</i> He is a most courteous and obliging Gentleman, and will be ready to do you all the kindness's Imaginable. <i>5ly.</i> You may see the Hospitals for sick Folk, and many other things, which for Brevities sake I omit, only I intreat you be at the paines to Visit the Book-sellers Shops; and if there be any new thing in Physick, since the 62 or 63 Year of God, I intreat you to bring them along with you for me, especialy if there be any thing of <i>Rhodius,</i> who hath promised us his commenta[...]s upon <i>Cornelius Celsus</i> long ago. </p>

<p> If you please, you may make a little Journey to the <i>Euganean</i> Hils, which are not far from <i>P[...]dua.</i> There is very good 232 Herborsing upon them. It will be worth your while, likeways to see <i>Abbano,</i> a Village 3. or 4 Miles distant from <i>Padua;</i> famous for its Natural Baths. At the end of the Village there is a little rising or <i>know;</i> upon the Top of which there are a great many Springs of hot Water, some where of are scalding hot. The Water is convoyed by little Conduits to several Houses about, where Baths are keept for sick People, but the greater part of it is convoyed the other way by a trough, where, at the distance of a Musket shot, it moves a Milne. The water it self is whitish, having a white slimy substance in it, which it deposes every where, where it runs, and which in process of time becomes as hard as a Stone; in so much that the Miln-Wheel, and all the Wood that is toucht by it, becomes crusted as it were with <i>Marble;</i> and if it be not broken of timeously, it stops the Motion of the Wheel just as <i>I[...]eicles</i> use to do with us. The Country about <i>Padua</i> is very Plain and exceedingly Fertile, insomuch that they use to say, <i>B[...]lognia 233 la grassa, ma Padua la passa;</i> yet the Wine is not good, but a red small Claret-Wine such as they use at <i>Venice</i> for ordinarie drink. When you ha[...] past some time at <i>Padua,</i> and satisfied your self, of all that is to be seen and known there, it will be time to set [...]orward for <i>Milan.</i>  </p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Padua to Verona.</H4> <i>&nbsp;</i> 

<l>Mil[...]s</l> <i>Vicenza </i>  

<l>17</l> <i>Montebello </i> 

<l>12</l> <i>Scaldere </i> 

<l>10</l> <i>Veron[...]  </i> 

<l>12</l> </UL>

<p> In going from <i>Padua</i> to <i>Vicenza,</i> you will do well to turne a little out of [...]  way to see a place called <i>Gus[...]so,</i> [...] is a House of Pleasure belonging to a [...]r[...]ticular Person, where, besides many [...]riosities, of Gardens &amp;c. there is p[...]ticular wayes of conveying the Win[...]  [...] the <i>Caves</i> below to the upper [...] 234 which makes a Delicat <i>Fresco</i> in the greatest heats of Summer. It stands at the foot of a very great <i>Mountain,</i> under which are the vastest and biggest <i>Caves</i>  I ever saw; but seem not to be Natural, but rather Quarries, out of which the greatest part of the Stone that <i>Vicenza</i> has been built with, has been taken. In one place of these <i>Caves,</i> there is a little Well made by the Water that drops from the Top of the <i>Cave,</i> which petrifies any Wood, Straw &amp;c. that lyeth any time in it, and yet the Water keeps clear it self, without congealing. Near to the City of <i>Vicenza,</i> upon your left hand, you wil see a delicat Peece of <i>Architecture,</i> made by the famous <i>Architect Vinogli,</i> which is likeways designed in his Book; It is only a House of Pleasure, and stands upon a considerable hight from the City, discovering all the Country round about. </p>

<p> <i>Vicenza</i> is a good large Town, having many fine Churches and Palaces, with a large place for Tilting and other Exercises: there is likeways in it a Noble Theatre built by <i>Vinogly:</i> the Country about is exceedingly 235 Fertile, and abounds with all sort of good Fruit, and is therefore called the <i>Garden of Venice.</i> </p>

<p> <i>Verona</i> is an easie days Journey from <i>Vicenza;</i> It is an Ancient City, large and well built, having many stately Palaces, Churches &amp;c. &amp; an old <i>Amphitheatre,</i> yet more intire than any other in <i>Italy.</i> The Town is divided in two by the River <i>Adice,</i>  it is wel Fortified, having 13 <i>Royal Bastions,</i> and three <i>Castles;</i> the two parts of the Town, are conjoyned by 4 large <i>Stone Bridges.</i> There is excellent Herborizing upon the Hils near to the City, but especially upon the <i>Monte baldo,</i> which is about 20 Miles distant from this City, and which is described at great length by <i>Joannes Pona,</i> whose Book I suppose you have seen. The Palace <i>del Conte Justi,</i>  is worthie the seeing, together with the Gardens and <i>Grotta's.</i> Amongst the rest, there is one of a Reasonable Capacitie built with that Artifice, that four Persons being placed in the four Corners, may speake each of them to his Neighbour in the opposit Corner, 236 and yet not be heard by those that stand in the middle between them. In the Palace of the <i>Signeur Conte Gregorio Bevila[...]&#0183;</i> there is a Gallerie, in which you may see a great many fine Pictures, Statues, <i>Medals,</i> and other Rarities. </p>

<p>[...]rom <i>Verona</i> you pass by <i>la peso[...]eira,</i>  which is a strong Fort, upon the River [...] issues from the <i>lago di Garda:</i> from [...] you go to <i>Dissanzano,</i> which tho' [...] big Town, but rather a Village, I look upon it as one of the pleasantest [...] in <i>Italy;</i> being upon the side of [...]  <i>lago di Garda,</i> a Lake not so [...] as long, for in length it reaches to [...] <i>Rhetici.</i> The Country about [...] and Fertile, and the Lake it [...]  [...]ounds with all sorts of Excellent [...] such as <i>Pykes, Pearches,</i> red and [...] Trouts &amp;c. and of all there are [...]  very big. In my time there was [...] [...]rench-man, that keept a very good [...], where we had excellent Fare [...] of fish and Flesh, and the best Wine [...] the whole State of <i>Venice,</i> and all at [...] Rate.</p>

<p> 237 From <i>Dissanzano,</i> you go to <i>Bre[...]cia,</i> which is not above half a days Journey distant from <i>Dissanzano.</i> It is a large and very strong Town, especialy the Castle thereof placed upon a Hill, that Commands the Town. It is famous for making of <i>Guns,</i>  and <i>Pistols,</i> especialy the <i>Cannons</i> of them, which are the best I ever saw by farr. If you have the opportunity of carriage, it would be worth your while to make Provision for your self here. If you resolve to make your return, not to <i>Lions</i> but, throw <i>Switzer-Land</i> and <i>Germany,</i> down the <i>Rhen,</i> &amp; so throw <i>Flanders</i> and <i>Holland,</i> then it will be fitt when you are at <i>Bol[...]gnia</i>  to go up the <i>Po,</i> by <i>Modena, Parma, Piazz[...]nza,</i> and so to <i>Millan,</i> and from thence to <i>Turrin,</i> and then back to <i>Millan</i>  again, and so returne by the other way of <i>Bergamo, Brescia, Dissanzano, Verona, Vicenza</i> and <i>Padua</i> to <i>Venice,</i> by which means you will not only see the sweetest and most Fertile places of <i>Lumbardie,</i> but also have the commoditie of bringing what ever you find in all that 238 way to <i>Venice,</i> from whence it may easily be Convoyed into <i>England.</i> From <i>Bres[...]i[...]</i>  to <i>Bergamo</i> you have a dayes Journey: You must Dine at a Place called <i>Pallazolo;</i> It is a little inconsiderable Town. I remember we had a Letter of Recommendation from the Duke of <i>Norfolks Major-Domo</i> at <i>Padua,</i> to a Gentleman in this place, who was exceedingly Civil to us &amp; sent us a Present of excellent Wine, &amp; (which was of farr greater importance to us) gave us the assurance of the peaceableness of the Countrey &amp; security of Travelling, which sometimes is not without the danger of being robbed; it being near the Frontiers of the state of <i>Millan:</i>  &amp; in such cases, it is usual for Rogues, when they have done a Mischief to pape into the next state, where the Laws of the other State cannot reach them. The project of our recommendation, was to have been conducted by this Gentleman on our way; if there had been any such need. He willingly profered it, but we, upon the assurance he gave us did as willingly deny to accept it. </p>

<p> 139 <i>Bergamo</i> is situated upon the side of a Hil, Fortifie with 9 <i>Bastions</i> besides the <i>Castle,</i> which is extreamly strong. There is, as I take it, in the <i>Dominicans</i>  a Rare <i>Bibliotheque,</i> Collected by the great expense of <i>Alexander Martinengo,</i> You will do well here to exchange all your <i>Venetian</i> Money into <i>Spanish</i> Money, &amp; such as will pass into the State of <i>Millan.</i>  You have a Days Journey from hence to <i>Millan,</i> and must Dine at a Place called <i>Villa nova:</i> as soon as ye have Dined, you pass the River <i>Tesin:</i> And then enter the State of <i>Millan.</i> </p>

<p>As you enter the State of <i>Millan,</i>  you will find some Searchers or wayters of the Custom-House, to whom you must give some small thing to let your Baggage pass, or else you may be troubled with them.</p>

<p> The State of <i>Millan,</i> altho' but small in extent, is yet one of the pleasantest &amp; Fertilest places in <i>Italy.</i> The Country is very Plain. The High-ways for the most part very large and straight, planted with <i>Trees</i>  and <i>Hedges,</i> on every side, 240 and having Canales of water, for the most part, on every side; and Travellers have this Advantage also to meet with better <i>Inns</i> and better accommodation here than on any other Road in <i>Italy.</i> The Inhabitants are not given to mutiny and Rebellion as those of <i>Naples,</i> but willingly submit to their Prince. It is said that the King of <i>Spaine</i>  Governs the Kingdom of <i>Sicilie</i> with mildness: <i>Naples</i> with subtilitie and the Dutchie of <i>Millan</i> with Authoritie. They say likeways that the inferior Governours of <i>Sicilie,</i> only but Gentlie: Those of <i>Naples</i> eat lustilie, but that in <i>Millan</i>  they devoure. I have observed throughout all <i>Italy,</i> that the greatest part of the <i>Inn-keepers</i> and <i>Taverners</i> even in <i>Rome</i> it self are <i>Milanese:</i> as also that the greatest part of the Masons that serve all <i>Italy,</i> are of this Countrie: and it is a verie great Mark both of their love to their Countrie and loyaltie to their Prince, that when they are not able to get so much by staying at home, as to entertain their Wives and Children, and pay Publick Burdens, they 241 are contented to live abroad most part of their lives, and returne that home which they Gaine abroad; for they never carrie their Wives with them, nor Children till they be able to Gaine for themselves: Onlie it may be they make them a Visit sometimes. The Citie of <i>Millan,</i>  which is Capital of the Dutchie, is one of the stateliest in <i>Italy:</i> it is near ten Miles in compass, but a considerable part of it, especiallie toward the Walls, is Gardens. The Streets are large &amp; handsome; Many statelie Churches and Palaces: But I shall Mark them a little more particularly as I have done in other Towns: And 1. to begin with the Churches, It is said there are above 230 in the Citie and Suburbs, whereof 96 are parochial: 40 Convents of Religious Men, and 50 of Religious Women. The Cathedral Church called <i>il Domo,</i> is one of the greatest and most Glorious in <i>Italy</i> except St. <i>Peters</i> at <i>Rome.</i> It is intirely built of white <i>Marble</i> within &amp; without, but that which is to be pitied is, that the design is <i>Gothick;</i>  it is not yet 242 quite finished; but they are still at work, and you may guess when they are like to come to an end, they haveing been up wards of 200 Years at work allreadie. There are above 600 <i>Marble</i> statues about the Walls, everie one of which cost at least 1000 Crowns, amongst which the statue of <i>Adam</i> and St. <i>Bartholomew</i> are much esteemed, especiallie the latter which is thought to be one of the best in <i>Europe.</i> The Pend of the Church is supported by 160 white <i>Marble</i> Pillars, each of them of that bigness, that scarcelie can three Men fathom them. It is believed that they stand not under 10000 Crowns a peece. All the rest of the parts of the Church are correspondent in Magnificenee, only it appears to me to be somewhat darker than need were. Amongst many other things that are considerable in this Church is the Body of St. <i>Charles Boromeus</i> in a Chappel under Ground. It hath a Lamp burning before it, and you look down through an Iron Tirles from the Church to see it. You may see the Head and Feet, but the 243 rest of the Bodie is covered with his pontificall Habit. There is a rich Treasure belonging to the Church, where you will see, amongst other things&#0183;
 a Silver statue of the same St. <i>Charles</i> in his Pontifical Habit, with many precious Stones of great Value upon the Myter thereof. It was presented by the Jewellers and Goldsmiths of <i>Millan.</i> In the Church of St. <i>Ambrose,</i> you may see a Pillar in the middle of the Church, upon which stands the <i>Brazen Serpent</i> that <i>Moses</i>  elevated in the Wilderness. You may likeways see two statelie Tombs, one of the Emperour <i>Luis,</i> and the other of <i>Pepin</i> King of <i>Italy,</i> both Sons of <i>Charles</i> the Great. Here also you may see the Chapel where St. <i>Augustine</i> was Baptized. In the Church of St. <i>Satyre,</i>  upon the great Altar there is a Picture of the blessed Virgin with the Babe <i>Jesus</i> in her Armes, of which they tell a wonderfull Story, that it being placed upon the Church-Yard-Wall, a certain Gamester called <i>Massario Vigonzonio,</i> being mad to have lost his Money, struck the little <i>Jesus</i> with a poynard, 244 whereupon immediately there gusht out abundance of Blood, after which it was placed upon the great Altar where it is yet to be seen. </p>

<p><i>2ly.</i> The Palaces; amongst the rest that of the Governour.</p>

<p><i>3ly.</i> The Hospitals; which are said to entertain above 9000 poor People all the Year long, at the expence of the Publick. That which is called the great Hospital, entertaines alone more than 4000, and so it may, for it has three Score ten Thousand Crowns of Yearlie revenue. The <i>Lazaretto</i> is a kind of Hospital without the Walls, It is a large Square court about a Mile in Compass, not unlike the form of the <i>Carthusians</i> Houses; that are divided into so many little appartments. The chief Design &amp; use of it, is in the time of the Plague: at other times it stands emptie, only some few persons that have the keeping of it, remaine there.</p>

<p>
 <i>4ly.</i> The places in the Town; chiefly the Exchange, where the Merchants meet; there you will see the statue of St&#0183; 245 <i>Augustin,</i> and the place where he taught Rhetorick before his conversion to the Christian Faith. </p>

<p><i>5ly.</i> St. <i>Ambrose</i>'s <i>Bibliotheck,</i>  where not only these Books that belonged to St. <i>Ambrose</i> himself, but many other Books that have been presented since, are kept.</p>

<p> <i>6ly. Septalie</i>'s Galerie. This <i>Manfredo Septali,</i> is Son to that famous Physician <i>Ludovicus Septalius,</i> who hath written many things, &amp; learnedly in Philosophie and Medicine. He is at present one of the <i>Canons</i>  of the great Church; And one of the greatest Virtuosi in <i>Italy.</i> His Studie of Books consists of 2 or 3 Roomes. His Galerie of Curiosities of three Roomes. The Curiosities are both Natural and Artificial, of so great a Number and Varietie, that I must not insist upon particulars; but only refer you to the description thereof in Latine by <i>Paulus Maria Tersagus,</i> the Book is in 40. <i>Dertono</i> 1664, and bears the name of <i>Musaeum Septalianum.</i> He hath also an other Room or two, full 246 of working Tooles, [...]ome for turning, others for Grinding of optick Glasses of all sorts and Fashion; and here you will see a great Variety of Musical Instruments. Most part of the Booksellers live near to the Exchange, but their Magasins are in severall other places of the Town; you must be carefull to see them all. You will undoubtedly find some to please, on which perhaps you will not readily fall else where. </p>

<p>You will meet with many Curiosities in this place, especiallie of <i>Cristal,</i> brought hither from the Alps, and a Thousand Conceits, most delicatly wrought of Straw. I have heard of peeces of <i>Cristal,</i> with severall shapes represented within them naturally, as of Trees, Flees, &amp;c. others with a drop of water within them, that one might perceive to move, but is was not my Fortune to light on any such.</p>

<p> <i>7ly.</i> The Castle of <i>Milan,</i>  is one of the greatest Forts in <i>Italy,</i> with six Royal Bastions, a large Fossey full of running water, and within it a second Wall of 247 strength. The Place within will admit of 6000 Men to be drawn up, It has above 200 peece of <i>Cannon&#0183;</i> all sorts of <i>Ammunition</i> and 600 Spaniards in Garison. It has a Water Miln within it for Grinding of Corn, which is moved by the running Water that fills the Ditches. </p>

<p>At a Miles distance from the Town, there is a Privat Gentlemans House, where the <i>Echo</i> is so excellent that it repeats above 40 times, which you may try, ether by speaking Loud or otherways with a Trumpet; but the surest way is with Pistol Shot, for then you may distinctly tell to 40, one after another.</p>

<p> The <i>Carthusians</i> have a stately Monastery at 10 Miles distance from <i>Millan,</i> wihin five Miles of <i>Pavia,</i> which hath 500000 Crowns of Yearly revenue; The Monks use to entertain Strangers for one Night. The Church is of a most Delicat Fabrick and very Rich. If you please you may go from hence to <i>Pavia,</i> Anciently <i>Ticinum,</i> and afterward called <i>Pavia.</i> The Town is very strong and stands upon the <i>Tesin&#0183;</i>  248 It is the Chief <i>Vniversity</i> of the Dutchie of <i>Millan,</i> but because I was not in it my self I cannot say much of it, only I have heard that in the great place of the City stands the <i>Brazen Statue</i> of the Emperour <i>Constantine,</i> or as some think of <i>Antoninus,</i>  very much esteemed. If you list to go thither I believe it may be well worth your seeing, because of the <i>Vniversity,</i> for, for any thing I know, there may be both good Books, and a <i>Physical</i> Garden there. </p>
<p>From <i>Millan</i> to <i>Turin,</i> you have about 73 <i>Miles.</i></p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>From Millan to Turin.</H4> <i>Buffalora </i> 

<l>9</l> <i>Novara </i> 

<l>16</l>
 <i>Vercelli </i> 

<l>15</l> <i>S. Germano </i> 

<l>13</l> <i>Ci[...]uas </i>  

<l>10</l> <i>Turin[...] </i> 

<l>10</l> </UL>

<p> You have two <i>Rivers</i>  to pass, by Boat 249 <i>viz.</i> the <i>Dorn,</i> after you pass <i>Vereelli</i> and the <i>Tesin</i> near to <i>Ci[...]uas:</i>  Near to <i>Vercelli</i> you enter into <i>Piedmont,</i> &amp; there you will meet with waiters or Customers to whom you must give some thing, and before this time it will be fitt that you have changed all your <i>Spanish</i> Money except it be Pistols, or half Pistols of Gold, for these will pass any where, either in <i>Piedmont</i> or <i>France.</i> When you Arrive at <i>Turin</i> you will think your self allready in <i>France,</i> for their Apparel, Customs and Discourse, are almost altogether <i>French.</i>  </p>

<p> <i>Turin, Augusta Taurinorum</i> is the Capital City of <i>Piedmont,</i> and is situated in a Plain about 20 Miles distant from the Alps; having the <i>Po</i> on the one side and the <i>Dorn</i> on the other. The Dukes of <i>Savoye</i>  keep their Court here, and have made it both very pleasant &amp; very strong: There is the old and new City, which is very well and regularly built. It is compassed with <i>Royal Bastions,</i> and Walls. It hath a <i>Citadale,</i> consisting of 5 strong <i>Bastions.</i> They say it is after the Model 250 of the <i>Citadale</i> of <i>Antwerp.</i> The great Church is called the <i>Domo,</i> where amongst other relicts is keept and had in Veneration the <i>Sanctum Sudarium,</i> upon which the <i>Visage</i> of our Saviour &amp; the greatest part of his Body is impressed. There is a famous <i>Vniversity</i>  here, &amp; this is said to be the first Town in <i>Italy</i> that had the first use of Printing. The Castle serves now the Duke for a Palace. There is a rare Galerie to be seen, with many fine <i>Pictures, Antick Statues</i> &amp;c. and a great Collection of <i>Manuscrips.</i> Amongst the new Buildings the Royal Place is considerable; the walks thereof being full of Shops and Merchandice of all sorts. You may likeways see the <i>Valentine,</i> which is a beautifull Palace, built by <i>Madam Royal</i> a little beneath the Town upon the Bank of the <i>Po&#0183;</i> In the Suburbs of the <i>Po,</i> there is a House called <i>Albergo</i> worthie the seeing, because of the many excellent Manufactories of Silk, and other Stuffs that are made there. </p>

<p> 251 I leave the rest to your own observa[...]ion, that <i>I</i> may haste to bring you over [...]he Alps; the ordinarie way is to Tra[...]el with the Messenger to <i>Lions</i> or to <i>Ge[...]eva.</i>  We came to <i>Lions.</i> It is a Jour[...]ey of 8 or 9 dayes. The first day we [...]arted from <i>Turin</i> about ten a Clock in [...]he forenoon, and came to lye all Night [...]ome 10 or 12 Miles from <i>Turin,</i> having [...]llready entered into one of the Vallies [...]hat leads to the foot of the Hill; the next day we Dined at an other little Village hard by the foot of the Hill, cal[...]ed <i>Monte Cene,</i> here we hired Mulets to [...]arrieus up the Hill; it being impossible for our Horses to do it. You must likeways [...]ire Men to carrie you down on the other side of the Hill, because it is a great deal too far to walk, and the way that the Horse goes, is farr about, because of the steepness of the Hill. And yet <i>I</i> mnst tell you that the Hill is three times steeper and less accessible on the <i>Italian</i> side than on the <i>French</i> side. As you mount the Hill, at first you will find the soyle somewhat fertile at least wayes for 252 pasturage and abundance of Wood; but when you are [...]ot higher you will find nothing but Rocks, &amp; Shrubs, here &amp; there; there is a little beck in the face of the Hill, where there stands a few Houses, or rather corbie nests; a habitation which some People have chosen for the benefit they may make by Accommodating Strangers that pass that way, for they are all Victualing-Houses, and (as I take it) a Smith or two. When you pass this and continue still to <i>Mount,</i> you will be about the middle Region of the Air, and it's a hundred to one; but you may see <i>Clouds</i>  enough beneath you, &amp; it may be the Rain falling from them; and then you will begin to find it cold what ever time of the Year it be, and the the higher you go it will still&#0183; be the [...]older, till you come to the very highest pitch you are to go, and there you will meet with a little House, in which one can scarce stand upright, where, if you have leisure, you will get some Bread &amp; Drink to buy; they usually have white Hares and white Partridges to sell, and 253 as usuall it is for Strangers to buy them for curiosities sake, &amp; have them dressed at their next Lodging. From this you have a Plain of above half a mile in length, which for the most part is coveted with Snow, except in the heat of Summer and then it will be green in some places that are most exposed to the Sunn. The great Pike of the Hill, which yo[...] leave upon the right hand as you enter the plain, is above two miles higher, and perpetualie covered with deep Snow. About the middle of the plain stands the ruin of a great House, which <i>Madam Ro[...]al</i>  began to build, but whither she finished it or not, I cannot tell; however I am sure nothing but <i>omnipotencie</i> could make a House resist the Rage of so much Wind and Storm, as that Place is Subject to. When you come to the end of the plain, there is an other little Victualling House, but it was Desolate, when I pass'd. You quite your moulets at the entrie into the Plain, and take your own Horses, and here you quite them again, and leave your Messenger to wait upon them to the bottom 254 of the Hill, the best way he can, and permit your self to be carried by two men which came along with you (for according to the number of the Companie there comes two for one from the <i>Italian</i> side, as I hinted at before) It is a kind of Barrow, with a litle Seat, &amp; a back at it, with two little handles to hold by, &amp; a foot board for streaching your limbs before you, tyed at both ends with a peece of small Rope, that they set [...]ou upon; &amp; then carrie you the nearest way down the Hill, which you would think steep enough for <i>Goats</i>  to climb. They go at the Rate of an Ordinary Horse trot, &amp; as they go will trist the stones to step upon, which lye confusedly here and there, as exactly as if they were a paire of stairs and yet they will not fall once in 500 times, and if they should it would be a fall without any great Perill. But indeed the danger on the <i>Italian</i> side is much greater; there being great Precipices on the one hand, where into, if one should fall it were impossible to escape, insomuch that I have often wondred how any Body durst 255 adventure to climb upon a Beasts back: and yet is admirable to see with it what dexteritie these poor Moulets pick out their way, where scarce any man could crawle all four, &amp; how sure footed they are. But I must returne to the <i>French</i> side, where you may pay off your porters when they have brought you to your Lodging at a little Village near to the foot of the Hill. The ordinarie rate is a Crown a Head that is, half a Crown to every Porter. </p>

<p> I have told you the way of passing the <i>Mount Cene</i> at such Seasons, of the Year, as there is little or no Snow: But in the Winter time when the Snows are fallen the Passage is much more uneasie &amp; unsafe, especiallie if they be newly fallen, and the paths not trod; for then it is not only impossible to go without 2 or 3 Guides, that in case one should drop throw the Snow there may be more hands to let fall a Rope and bring him up again; for sometimes that will happen, as when a Courier is necessitat to pass upon important affairs, &amp; any of the Guides chance to mistake a step, he will some 256 times slip down 100 fathom or two. But this is not the greatest Danger neither, for in the <i>French</i> side, from the foot of the Hills, you have a whole dayes Journey and more through a narrow Valley with a small River in the middle of it, which, at the foot of the Mount <i>Cene,</i> one may easilie step over, but it grows still bigger, as it advances throw the Valley; being increased by the water that pours from everie cleft of the Hills and Rocks, which are on everie side of the Valley, of a prodigious height, and most precipitious: The current of the River falling sometimes to be on one side of the Valley, and sometimes on the other, for the most part casts the highway on the contrary side; So that verie often you will chance to pass under horrible Rocks that hang over the high way, and when the Snow is new fallen and they loaden with it, the least noise in the World would bring down a whole Mountain of Snow, So that if a Passinger were so caught, you might look upon him as buried till the following Spring. </p>

<p> 257 But I shall advise you to choose a fitter Season, and then you will have the Satisfaction of Herborising, for the lower parts of the Hills are all covered with Trees &amp; many sorts of Plants, that do not grow Naturalie in an other Soil. I confess my Fortune, as to this, was ill; for after I past the <i>Monte Cene,</i> we had a constant deluge of Rain, till I came the length of <i>Chamberrie.</i> But I must not here forget to acquaint you with an other particular that had almost escaped me, in time of Snow: and it is this. When you come to the <i>French</i> side (supposing the Snow to be frozen and able to bear above;) there is a singular way of going down the Hill, which they call <i>R[...]masser, ou se faict Ramasse.</i> That is to have a little hurdle of Wood, upon which the Passingers is placed, with a little bit of Boord behind it, upon which the fellow stands that Guides the way, and so you come hurling down together, at a greater rate than the swiftest Horse in the World is able to go. </p>

<p> 258 I do not remember to have remarked any thing worthie the troubling you with, upon the way from <i>Mont Cene</i> untill you come the length of <i>Momilian,</i> except only that the Inhabitants near the <i>Alps,</i> are troubled with a certain Disease called <i>Bronchocele,</i> which is an outward swelling in their Throats from the Chin downward, sometimes to the middle of their Breast, so that they appear at first to have no Neck or Chin, but one continued Thing from their Mouth downward. It is exceedingly hard and easily affected with Cold; the cause of it is believed to be their continual Drinking of Snow-water, which runs continually from the Neigbouring Hills. </p>
<p> <i>Montmelian,</i> is a Fortress of great strength upon the Borders of <i>Savoye</i> near to <i>Daufin;</i> it is the only considerable place for strength in all <i>Savoye,</i> &amp; stand[...]  within 3 leagues of <i>Chamberrie,</i> &amp; within 5 or 6 of <i>Granoble,</i> which is a Parliament Town, and the Capital City o[...] <i>Daufine;</i> as <i>Chamberrie</i> is of <i>Savoye.</i> [...] the necessity of your occasions and you[...] 259 Engagement to the Messenger oblige you not to go straight to <i>Lions,</i> it will be very proper to see <i>Granoble,</i>  Anciently called <i>Gratianopolis</i> from the Emperour <i>Gratian:</i> not that he was the first Founder of it, but because he enlarged it much, and beautified it. It lyes in a plain at the foot of the Hill <i>Chelmont,</i> and hath the River <i>Isere</i> on the one side, &amp; <i>Drac,</i>  which is an impetuous torrent on the other. A little beyond the <i>Drac,</i> there is a wonderfull Curiositie to be seen; that is, a Fountain that burneth constantly. The Fields about the Town are exceeding Fertile, and carrie good Wine, but the neighbouring Hills are so high, that you may see Snow all the dayes of Summer upon their Tops. The Manufactorie of Gloves and dressing of Skins of all sorts is much commended in this City. </p>

<p> But the most considerable thing in all this Country to be seen is the great <i>Charter-House,</i> so called because the General of the <i>Order</i> is obliged to Reside here. It is a statelie Monasterie, but stands in the wildest place that ever my feet trod 260 upon. The Reason they give for choosing this place is, because St. <i>Bruno,</i> the first <i>Instituter</i> of their <i>Order,</i> did pennance here; It stands very near the <i>Mount Chelmount,</i>  being three Miles distant from <i>Granoble</i> by a continual ascent. These three leagues will take you eight or nine good Hours riding, for in many places it is not safe to ride, and you must be forced to walk a foot. About the mid-way there stands a little inconsiderable Village of 4 or 5 Houses, where it wil be fit to repose a little; you will get Bread and Wine, and it's fourtie to one but you may meet with some good peece of <i>sanglier,</i> which abounds upon the Hill; being it is for the most part covered with Trees. When you come within a Mile of the House, you meet with a great Port and a Porter to wait upon it, who I suppose shuts it in the Night time. Within the Port there is a Bridge over a great Cleft, within, which runs a little Rivolet; there is no possibilitie of entering any where on that side, but by this Port, from which you ascend still to the Monasterie, but, 261 the way is easie, and all within the top[...] of the Hills covered with <i>Oakes, Beeches,</i> and <i>Firr-Trees;</i>  within half a Mile of the Monasterie or some less, stands their Stables, Garnels and other Office-Houses, which indeed are statelie and well appointed, for there&#0183; they have lay-brothers of all Trades that serve to their purpose, and to this place it is that your Horses are sent back from the Monasterie to be [...]eept till your going away, and if by chance any of your own or Horse-Furniture had been broken by the way, or your Horses lost a Shooe, they will be all repaired next Morning without your desiring it. They have good store of Hay, and have made severall Closes near to the Monasterie, (which stands on that side of the Hill that hangs to the Southwest, and consequently has most of the Sun for making of Hay,) having felled down all the Wood that grew upon them. When you Arrive at the Monasterie, you alight from your Horses and then the Porter desires you to stay untill he call the Prefect, who presently comes and informs 262 himself of your Names, Qualities, Country, and the Occasion of your coming (for most part come out of Devotion, and they be but few Strangers that come for Curiositie, but however all are welcome,) which being done he craves you Patience to acquaint the General, but he very soon returnes to conduct you to your apartement, only you must leave your Swords and Pistols with the Porter at the Gate. The Monasterie is verie large, and they have a different apartment for most Nations. We were carried into one that was very convenient, being a large Room wanscoted about with Firr-[...]ords; and for Fireing, every Log of Wood they put on, is like the End of a Ships-Mast. Our Beds for the most part were at the sides of the Room within the Wal, all boorded abou[...] like a Ships Cabbin; and for Courtens having two folding leaves, which you may shut or leave open at pleasure. Upon our first Arrival into this Room, we were presented with a Collation of very good Wine, Bread, Butter and Cheese; and then a Guide 263 given us to conduct us up the Hill, yet half a Mile further, to see St. <i>Bruno</i>'s Chapel, that stands in the place where he did his Pennance for many Years together, as they will more particularly inform you, &amp; as you returne they will let you see another Chapel Dedicated to our Lady. By that time you are returned to the Monasterie it will be time to Supp, and then according to your number you will be treated with more or fewer Dishes. We were only six in Companie, and we had above 30 Dish of Meat, but there was not above three or four Varieties, except in the way of dressing; &amp; for that they are admirable. I believe we had at least a Dussen of different dishes of Eggs, all prepared in different maners; the rest were a few Fishes and <i>Fritato</i>'s, for seeing they never eat Flesh themselves, it cannot be exspected they should give it to any other Body within their Monasterie. The next Morning the Prefect conducts you thorow the House, shewes you the different Apartments, and particularlie to us was shown that of the 264 <i>English</i> Nation, which they used to Assigne for them in former times, but now because of their defection from the Faith, they have given it to the <i>German</i> Nation. They show you painted about the Walls the severall Torments &amp; Deaths inflicted upon those of thei[...]  <i>Order</i> in <i>England,</i> in the time of King <i>Henry</i> the 8. &amp; Queen <i>Elizabeth.</i> They let you see the Church, the <i>Library,</i>  the <i>Refectory,</i> the Religious <i>Cells,</i> the <i>Kitchen,</i> (which is the best I have seen in <i>France</i> after that of the <i>Jesuits</i>  at <i>L[...]-Flesch,</i>) and lastly the <i>Cellers,</i> which are well enough furnished, but nothing so well as those at <i>Naples</i> of the same <i>Order.</i> If any Gentleman be desirous to see the General, and speake with him, it will be granted him, and he will find him very Civil. All this being done you Breakfast, the Prefect waits upon you to the Gate, where your Horses attend you, and your Arms are delivered you, &amp; so leaveing a little Drink-Money to the Servan[...]s, (about a Crown a Head for Gentlemen,) you take leave and returne again to <i>Granoble.</i> I must only add that 265 all this Hill over there is excellent Herbarizing. </p>

<p>From <i>Granoble</i> to <i>Lions,</i> you have a Matter of 15 leagues, in which there is little considerable.</p>

<p>From <i>Chamberrie</i> to <i>Lions</i>  there is 16 leagues, but nothing considerable upon the way; save only that within 2 Miles of <i>Chamberrie</i> you have only the <i>Gabelette</i> to pass, which is a very steep and high Mountain in several parts precipicious, especiallie on the <i>Savoy</i> side, yet you mount that side on your own Horses, and must carrie along with you from <i>Chamberrie</i> Porters to carrie you down the Hill, on the <i>French</i> side. I think you will pay but half a Crown for your two Porters, and you will find them as dexterous in their Trade, as those of <i>Mount Ceni's.</i></p>

<p> Some that have a mind to see <i>Geneva</i> pass the <i>Alps,</i> either by the <i>Mount Sampion</i> or the Mount St. <i>Bernard,</i> and so from <i>Geneva</i> either go straight to <i>Lio[...]s,</i>  which is a Matter of 26 Leagues, or else from <i>Geneva</i> go to <i>Chamberrie,</i> which is 266 12 Leagues, and from thence to <i>Montmelian,</i> the <i>Grand Charterhouse,</i> and so pass by <i>Granoble</i> to <i>Lions.</i>  This is all that occurs to my Memorie at present, concerning this Journey. </p>

<p> In truth I am very sensible that it might have been much more accurat, had I been so diligent as to write of it in the time I made the Journey, when all things were fresh in my Memorie. But that occasion being lost; <i>I</i> had no more left me, but to Recol[...]ect my Thoughts as carefully as I could to satisfie your desire, &amp; the rather because I am hopefull, it will provoke you to make a more diligent Inquiry after all things, and to set them down Orderly, without trusting your Memorie. This <i>I</i> conjure you to do; and assure your self, it is one of the greatest things <i>I</i> will expect from you at your return. <i>I</i> confess, <i>I</i> have been somewhat prolix in my narration, but, if you consider the vastness and Fertilitie of the Subject, you will find few Towns in <i>Italy,</i> of which there might not have been more said than I have said of them all; &amp; this you 267 will easily find to be true if you please to make a Collection of those Books that are writen of the Antiquities, and Curiosities, of each of them: For there is scarcelie any Town in <i>Italy,</i> where, you may not find such Books. However such as it is I offer it you, and wish it were better for your sake, for whole service it was only undertaken; aud if it prove acceptable and usefull to you, I have my designe. I shall o[...]lie add that it had been sent you much sooner, had not the Necessitie of an Extraordinarie attendance upon this <i>Winter-Session,</i> so often withdrawn me, together with the other Duties of my Profession, which I was Obliged to perform. </p>

<p>Postscript.</p>
 <UL> </br> <H4>A List of those Things, which I desire The Laird of LEVINGSTONE to procure for me in Italy.</H4> 

<l>
<p> 1. All the new Books of <i>Physick, Botany,</i> and that any way relate to the Historie of Nature, that have been printed since 268 the 64. and of Old Books, <i>Aldrovandi's</i> works at <i>Bolognia,</i> together with any other he can meet with, that was contained in the first List I gave him when he parted from hence, as also at <i>Rome</i> I desire him to buy me a Book in <i>Taildouce,</i> containing all the Antiquities, <i>Palaces Statues, Churches, Villa's, Fountains, Pyramids</i> &amp;c. in <i>Rome.</i> I would have it of the best, largest and finest Impression; and if you cannot get them so in one Book, I would have you take them in severall Fashions as you can best find them: You may inquire <i>appresso Giacomo di Rossi a la Pace in Roma.</i> Also <i>Caroli Avantij, Paraleipomena Botanica,</i> if it be to be had, for I never saw it, onlie he promiseth it in his <i>Notes</i> in <i>Caenam Baptiste Fiera</i> 4. <i>Patav</i> 1649. </p> </l> 

<l>
<p> 2. At <i>Florence</i> I desire that you would remember to procure me a small Parcel of all the Varieties of Stones you can come by. The readie way will be to inquire for them at the Stone Cutters in the great Dukes Chapel at St. <i>Laurence</i> Church, or else at the Work-men that work in Stone for 269 Cabinets at the Dukes Gallerie. But above all, of these two kinds of Stone that are most comon at <i>Florence;</i> whereof the one Represents Trees, and Forrests; the other, Towns and Villages: I would have of each two or three large handsome choise Peeces, fitt to be put in Frames. I would likeways have of those peeces of <i>Cristal</i> that are extraordinarie for Colour, or otherwayes that have any Substance, contained within them; as water, &amp;c. you may possibly find such, either at <i>Florence</i> or <i>Millan,</i> or it may be <i>Venice</i> or any other where. There is likeways a Stone called <i>Lapis Fungiferus;</i> It is a Stone that being placed in the Ground produces large Mushroms; I had one of them given me at <i>Rome,</i> but unhappily lost it at <i>London.</i> To the best of my Memorie, they are commonly found about <i>Praenestae,</i> commonly called <i>Palestrina.</i> Some honest Virtuoso, &amp; particularlie <i>Padre Barilieri alla Minerva in Roma,</i> will tell you where they may be got; I have likeways heard that they were in many places of the Kingdom of <i>Naples.</i> </p> </l>
 
<l>
<p> 270 3. I humbly desire likeways some parcel of <i>Antieails,</i> some[...]three or 4 of the <i>Antiche Lucerne</i> of the best fashioned and best preserved. In my time there was 2 or 3 in the <i>Piazza navona,</i> that sold such things, and particularly an Old Man, whose Name I have forgot, that had whole Cabinets full of <i>Intalio</i>'s and <i>Medales.</i> I desire likeways some <i>Intalio</i>'s that be truly <i>Antique:</i> the excellencie of the Impression, and the deepness of it commends them, especiallie if they be well preserved, &amp; neither the Stone nor impression spoiled. I would likeways have some <i>Brass-Medals</i> of the <i>1st.</i> or second <i>Magnitude,</i> that be well preserved. There are many things that commend <i>Medals</i> to be good, particularly, 1. to be Antique and not Counterfeit. 2. To be well preserved, <i>3ly.</i> to have a good Reverse; &amp; it is to be observed, that the differences of reverses make different Medals, altho' they be of the same Emperour, or Consul, and of the same <i>Magnitude,</i> and it is likeways to be observed that those Emperours who Reigned longest had the greatest Varietie of Medals; As for Reverses, the 271 best are such as are least common; as for example <i>a Charriot, a Triumphal Arch, a Trophie of Warr, a Man or a Womans Head for the Reverse, two Faces on one side, a Galey, the Instruments of Sacrifice, an Amphitheatre, a Mousolium, an Elephant, a Lion, a Dolphin,</i> and many more such that I cannot remember of; as also a Reverse charged with many Figures, can never be ill, nor one that relates any known Historie, as one that I have of <i>Titus Vespasian</i> with a Palm[...]Tree, a Slave sitting at the foot of it, with this Word, <i>Judea capta</i> for the Reverse thereof. But <i>I</i> doubt mine is only a Copie, and not truly Antique. <i>I</i> would likeways have a few <i>Chamaeo</i>'s providing they be not dear; that which commends them is to have the Figures well done, and to be well preserved. The Pretiousnes of the Stone doth likeways contribute much to their Value. In all there, that is, <i>Medales, Intaglias, Chameo</i>'s, <i>I</i> would be content that ye did bestow 4 or 5 Pistolls for me, which tho' <i>I</i> confess it be a very small Summ; yet you may chance to make a better purchase for it at <i>Rome</i> 272 than any where else for a farr bigger. Lastly, to conclude this Article, <i>I</i> would fain have some of the Ancient Glass, which through time looks now as it were Opal; Nothing will commend it so much as to find an intire vase or <i>Phiol,</i> for example a <i>Lachrimatory,</i> such as the Ancients used to cape their own or their Friends Tears in. </p> </l> 
<l>
<p><i>4ly.</i> There is the Face of a Hill near to <i>Rome,</i> as <i>I</i>  remember, it is at the End of the <i>Janicular,</i> not farr from <i>Cardinal Francis Barherin's Villa,</i> that is full of Shells of all sorts <i>Petrified,</i> or if ye please to call them Stones, resembling all the Species of Shells. By what means they came there, <i>I</i> leave you to find out&#0183; only <i>I</i> would fain have you to make good Provision of all the Varieties of them, and these as intire as you can get them.</p>
 </l> 

<l>
<p> <i>5ly.</i> At <i>Naples I</i> would desire you to buy me a couple of black Sashes, Net-work such as they use. <i>I</i> think the best use to cost 3 or 4 Crowns a Peece, and <i>I</i> would have the best. <i>I</i> would likeways have you to buy me at <i>Luca,</i> or at <i>Florence, I</i> think you may do it in either, two of the largest 273 quilted Silk Stomagers, or Breast-Plates, such as people use to wear there in Winter time. And at <i>Rome</i> I intreat you to buy me a Dossen a pair of Gloves, <i>Concia di Roma,</i> not exceeding a <i>Testone,</i> or 4 <i>Julio's</i> a pair: and at <i>Venice</i> two <i>pound,</i> of the best Old <i>Theriae.</i> At <i>Bolognia</i> a Dossen or two of <i>Soap-Balls.</i>  </p> </l> 

<l>
<p> <i>6ly.</i> All the Natural Curiosities that you can meet with, with your conveniencie of <i>Fowls, Fish, Insects</i> or other <i>Animals,</i> the manner of Ordering, of which I have written to you formerly. I confess these you sent me from <i>Paris</i> were the best ordered I ever saw; but besides that it is too Expensive, you will not allways meet with the Oportunity, of having them so ordered; therefore it will be sufficient, if the Skins (being carefully taken of, and stuffed with <i>Flax,</i> or <i>Cotten</i>) be so preserved: But for the smaller sort of <i>Insects,</i> their whole Bodies will easily preserve; the Guts being first taken out. Of this kind I would have these <i>viz.</i> a <i>Viper</i> or two both the kinds of <i>Tarantula, viz.</i> the <i>Stellio,</i> which is a kind of <i>Lizard</i> Curiously, Spotted, but 274 accounted <i>Poysonous;</i> and the other true one, which is shaped like a <i>Spider:</i> and what others you think fitt. </p> </l> 

<l>
<p><i>7ly.</i> Be pleased to make me some purchase of Outlandish Curiosities, especially, such as are from the <i>Levant,</i> of whatsoever Sort that you can meet with. Buy me at <i>Venice,</i> a <i>Stilletto,</i> and a pair of <i>Armenian Shoos,</i>  shod with Iron on the heels, such as they use to wear undermost.</p> </l> </UL>

<p>For the rest I refer you to the <i>Itinerary,</i> and shall earnestly intreat you to do me the Favour to Remember all my desires, as farr as may Stand with your Convenience, for further I should be very sorry to trouble you. I do likeways with much Earnestness Recommend to you those Particulars, concerning my self, mentioned in such Places of the <i>French Itinerary</i> (which I sent you last Year) as you have not yet seen. Thus, once again wishing you all happiness,</p>
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 I Remaine Your <i>&amp;c.</i> </br> 226 [...] 227 [...] 228 [...]  229 [...] 230 [...] 231 [...] 232 [...] 233 [...]  234 [...] 235 [...] 236 [...] 237 [...] 238 [...]  239 [...] 240 [...] 241 [...] 242 [...] 243 [...]  244 [...] 245 [...] 246 [...] 247 [...] 248 [...]  249 [...] 250 [...] 251 [...] 252 [...] 253 [...]  254 [...] 255 [...] 256 [...] 257 [...]  </br> </br> 

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